Raymond Limited, Textile Unit, Vapi

RAYMOND LIMITED, TEXTILE
UNIT ,VAPI
ADITI ASHOK
ADITI RAINA
MEHULI MAZUMDAR
[NIFT KOLKATA
APPAREL PRODUCTION
(2013-2017)]
TEXTILE INTERNSHIP 15
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all, we would like to thank Ms Ruhama Kacchap and Mr. Bhishan for allowing us
to do our internship in their august organization and for guiding us through these 15
days.
We would also like to thank our mentor Mr. Jayaram Pari for helping us with his words
of guidance to complete our internship with success.
We also wish to thank Mr. Paresh Ajmire, Mr. J. Prakash , Mr. Ganesh Karg, Mr. Sanjay
Ajgaonkar, Mr. Rajender Kasuwar, Mr. Pramod Paranjape, Mr. Sandeep Das and Mr. R.
Patil for their guidance and assistance.
Aditi Raina
Aditi Ashok
Mehuli Mazumdar
DECLARATION
This is to certify that this INTERNSHIP REPORT on Raymond, Textile Division, Vapi,
Gujarat is our original work. Any references made from secondary data source have
been duly acknowledged in bibliography at the end of the report. It is firmly certified
that if at any stage the work is found to have plagiarized, the internship report would
render itself null and void.
Aditi Ashok
Aditi Raina
Mehuli Mazumdar
B.FTECH (APPAREL PRODUCTION)
NIFT, KOLKATA
CONTENTS
S.N
O.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
TOPIC
PAGE NO.
Purpose Of Report
Introduction
About Raymond Vapi
Process Flow Chart
Wool Scouring
Grey Combing
Dyeing
Re-Combing
Spinning
Weaving
Finishing
Quality Control
Designing
PURPOSE OF THE REPORT

This report is intended to describe the various dimensions of RAYMOND LIMITED, VAPI
UNIT that we have been able to observe in our 15-day internship in this august
organization.
This internship was intended to understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey
fabric production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their
quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purpose.
Hence, this report has been made to elaborate all the aforementioned fields of the
textile industry.
INTRODUCTION
RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. Is the largest integrated manufacturer of worsted fabric in the world and
is based in Mumbai. It has over 60% market share in worsted suiting in India. The
textile division of the company has a distribution network of more than 4000 multibrand outlets and over 637 exclusive retail shops in the domestic market itself.
Suitings are available in India in over 400 towns through 30,000 retailers and an
exclusive chain is present in over 150 cities across India. Its products export to over 55
countries including the US, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East.
The first Raymond Woolen mill was setup in the year 1925 near Thane Creek. Dr.
Vijaypat Singhania is the Chairman Emeritus of the Company with Shri Gautam Hari
Singhania being the Chairman and Managing Director.
Raymond has now become the leader among ready-mades, in India, achieving a
business turnover of over Rs 2000 million.
HISTORY OF COMPANY
RAYMOND SINCE 1925
In early 90s, the Singhania family member, Mr. Wadia set up a small woolen mill in
Thane. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this
mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills. At the same time, the Singhania
aimed to broaden their business horizons. The family's sharp business foresight led to
the acquisition of The Raymond Woolen Mills.
When the grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailaspat Singhania took over Raymond
in 1944, the mill largely made cheap and coarse woolen blankets & low priced woolen
Fabrics. Under Mr. Gopal Krishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class factory
and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen Fabrics.
When Dr. Vijay pat Singhania took over the reins in 1980, he injected fresh vigor
into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present CMD has been instrumental in restructuring the
group.
Following are the GROUP OF COMPANIES owned by Raymond:
Raymond Ltd.
Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL)
A 100% subsidiary of Raymond Limited, Raymond Apparel Ltd. (RAL) ranks
amongst India's largest and most respected apparel companies. They cater to
the customers demand for the best of fabric and style through some of the
countrys most prestigious brands Raymond (Ready-To-Wear), Park
Avenue, Parx and Notting Hill etc.
Colorplus Fashions Ltd.
Launched in 1993, ColorPlus created a niche in the ready to wear market in
India with a premium range of clothing for
men. With focus on product innovation and
unique use of colors it has today come a long way since inception. To ensure that
customers get the best product from us, we have pioneered the techniques like
Golf Ball Wash, Come Dyed Casuals and Thermo-fused buttoning to name a few.
These innovations have taken our collection to a whole new level, making it
synonymous with the words Luxury & Style.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond
Ltd.; marking the group's foray into the Global
Apparel Outsourcing market. This unit
manufactures suits and formal trousers catering
largely to export markets.
Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd.
Raymond Luxury Cottons Ltd. produces exclusive cotton shirting and bottom
weight fabrics. It supplies its creations to leading shirt brands the world over.
EverBlue Apparel Ltd.

Raymond has set up a state-of-the art denimwear facility 'Everblue Apparel Ltd.'
in Dodaballapur near Bangalore, offering
complete denim solutions to our customers.
This plant is integral to our strategy of
forward integration of our denim fabric
division. With features like a state-of-the-art
design studio, computerized cutting,
automatic sewing, laser blasting, spraying,
sand blasting and a washing unit with central controls, the plant is considered to
be among the foremost units in Asia.
Celebrations Apparel Ltd.
Raymond has set up a state-of-the art manufacturing facility of formal shirts
through a
technical collaboration with Flex Japan, a Japanese shirt
manufacturing company. The plant boasts of hightech machinery from Pfaff, Duerkopp and Juki,
spreading from Bullmer and cutters from
Gerber. The plant produces 1.5 million dress
shirts annually.
J.K. Files & Tools

Raymond Ltd. ventured into the engineering business with the establishment of
JK Files (India) Ltd. in 1949. Today, JK Files
(India) Ltd. is the largest manufacturer of
steel files in the world with a global market
share of over 30% in the files business. The
legacy of excellence in quality is shown across
our product range which includes:
Files.
Cutting Tools.
Hand Tools.
The Files range is marketed under
"Sunflower" & "Three Files" Brand. The Cutting & Hand Tools are marketed under
"JK" Brand.
Ring Plus Aqua Ltd.
The auto component industry is poised at the threshold of a quantum leap.
The group plans to capitalise on this potential be setting foot into the auto
component market through strategic alliances and acquisitions. Raymond has
made a foray into Automotive Components by acquiring a controlling stake in
a company manufacturing Flywheel Starter Gears and Integral Shaft Bearings

for Water Pumps- Ring Plus Aqua Ltd.
The
product range includes:
Starter Ring Gears
Flexplate Flywheel Assembly
Profile Sheet Formed Metal Pulleys

Integral Shaft Water Pump Bearings
J.K. Helena
Curtis Ltd.
Established in 1964, J.K. Helene Curtis Limited is a part of the Raymond Group in India.
With an experience of over 40 years in the
Personal Grooming and Toiletries Industry,
their strength lies in their ability to build world
class quality
brands. Their varied portfolio of brands namely, Park Avenue, Premium, Monarch
and Tru Tone span across the Personal Grooming and Home Care categories.
J.K.
J. K.
Investo Trade(India) Ltd.

Investo Trade (India) Limited ( JKIT ) [formerly known as J. K. Chemicals
Limited] is a company incorporated in India under the Companies Act,
1913, having its Registered Office at New Hind House, N.M. Marg,
Ballard Estate, Mumbai 400 001. JKIT is an investment company
registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial

Company.
Following are the JOINT VENTURES of Raymond:
Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.
Raymond's denim story began in 1996;
focusing on quality, innovation and the
creation of exclusive products & designs that
have
always caught the eye of some of the world's
leading jeanswear brands as well as making
Raymond amongst the top producers of specialty ring denim in India with a 60% market
share. In August 2006, they entered into a 50:50 Joint Venture with European
denim major, UCO NV to form a global denim powerhouse - Raymond UCO

Denim Pvt. Ltd. engaged in the business of manufacturing and marketing of
denim fabrics. Raymond UCO Denim is a formidable combination of strengths in
product innovation and design and a strong manufacturing back end of
manufacturing flexibilities especially in dyeing and finishing.
Raymond Zambaiti Pvt. Ltd.

J.K. Ansell Ltd.
10
J.K. Ansell Ltd. (JKAL) is a 50:50 joint venture between the Raymond Group and
Ansell International for manufacturing and selling the popular 'KamaSutra' brand
of condoms. Currently, J.K. Ansell enjoys a significant share of the commercial Indian
market emerging as a second major player. It also provides condoms to the Government
of India and Non Government Organisations (NGOs) and exports to over 70 countries
around the world.
J.K. Talabot Ltd.

In 2005, Raymond Ltd. set-up J.K. Talabot Ltd., a joint
venture
between the company and MOB Outillage SA of France, an
international
group manufacturing agri, hand and
construction tools. Raymonds skilled
manpower backed by the technical expertise in
machinery &
equipments from MOB Outillage SA create the perfect synergies to produce
world-class products. This new facility will churn out over five lakh dozen files
and rasps per annum.
Following are the BRANDS under Raymond:
Park Avenue
Launched in 1986, Park Avenue provides
innovative wardrobe solutions to well-dressed
India's premium lifestyle brand, its designs
in international fabric, styling, colour and
fashion trends.
stylish and
gentlemen. As
embody the latest
Raymond (Ready-To-Wear) Raymond (Ready-To-Wear) is a premium

formal wear brand which is postioned to offer classic garments
with
impeccable fits and inviting styles to the Global Indian.
Parx
Parx is a premium casual lifestyle brand, which is positioned to
cater to the needs of consumers who are looking for dressing
up for life across occasions and events.
Zapp!
Notting Hill
11
Makers
Makers
is a fabric brand from the house of Raymond targeting the ever

growing Tier 3 to 5 town consumers who are no longer living in
the
shadow of their metro counterparts but are increasingly
gaining more disposable income as well as the confidence to
make it big and be successful. The product range
comprises of poly viscose and poly wool trouser fabric,
along with a range of shirting fabric in 100% cotton, linen and cotton blends,
which are available through Thans and cut pieces as well.
COMPANY MILESTONES
12
1925 Setup of The

Raymond
Woolen mill
in the area
around
Thane creek.
1958 - The first

exclusive
Raymond Retail
showroom,
King's Corner,
was opened.
1968 - Raymond
setup a
readymade
garments plant at
Thane.
1990 - The first

showroom abroad
for Raymond in
Oman.
2005 - Set of
Raymond's third
worsted unit at
Vapi in Gujarat
1925 - Setup of The Raymond Woolen mill in the area around Thane creek.
1958 - The first exclusive Raymond Retail showroom, King's Corner, was opened
in 1958 at Ballard Estate in Bombay.
1968 - Raymond setup a readymade garments plant at Thane. The readymade
garments division of Raymond has since then grown rapidly. Raymond has now
become the leader among ready-mades, in India, achieving a business turnover
of over Rs. 2000 million.
1979 - A new manufacturing facility was set up at Jalgaon, to meet the
increasing demand for worsted woolen fabrics.
1986 - Launch of "Park Avenue", the premium lifestyle brand providing a
complete wardrobe solution to the men who like to dress well & be current on
styles & fashion.
1990 - The first showroom abroad for Raymond in Oman.
1991 - A new manufacturing facility was set up at Chhindwara, near Nagpur.
1995 - Superfine pure wool collection under the Lineage Line (Super 100S to
Super 140S).
13
1996 - Raymond's denim; focusing on quality, innovation and the creation of

exclusive products that have always caught the eye of some of the world's
leading denim wear brands.
1999 - Launch of "Parx", a premium casual wear brand bringing customers a
range of semi-formal and casual clothes.
2003 - Setup of 'Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.' for manufacturing suits and formal
trousers catering largely to export markets.
2003 - Acquisition of Color Plus
2005 - Setup of state-of-the art Jeanswear facility 'Ever blue Apparel Ltd.' near
Bangalore.
2005 - Setup of state-of-the art facility 'Celebrations Apparel Ltd.' for the
manufacturing of formal shirts.
2005 - Set of Raymond's third worsted unit at Vapi in Gujarat. Raymond now has
3 state of the art units with a combined capacity of 31 million meters of worsted
fabric.
2008-launch of Neckties & More- new format store for accessories
MARKETS OF RAYMOND LTD.

Raymond Ltd. Caters to 5 types of markets, namely:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Civil Market The Civil Market consists of the full domestic market of India
Exclusive Market Indian (Raymond) dealers only
Exotic Market High Value Fabric (Rs. 15000 Rs. 9 Lakhs)
Export Market Market outside India
RAL/RMG/INST RAL stands for Raymond Apparel Ltd (fabric sent to garment
unit of Raymond in Bangalore).
RMG stands for Ready Made Garments (fabric for garment brands of Raymond).
INST stands for Institutional (fabrics for private companies like Kingfisher
Airlines).
CLIENTS/BUYERS OF RAYMOND LTD.

1. Export Clients
Peerless USA
Hugo Boss UK
Cevin Taylor Europe
14
Tokida Japan
Taka/Q Japan
J.C. Penny US
Rufritex Spain
Dhirglobal Europe
JSM Europe
2. RAL
Park Avenue
Park Avenue Women
Raymond(Ready-To-Wear)
Parx
Color Plus
3. RMG
Blackberry
Van Heausen
Arrow
4. Domestic
Pokarma Fabrics Hyderabad
NCS Suman Maharashtra
SMML Delhi
T.L. Fashions Kolkata
B.R. Textiles Delhi
Sanjeet Textiles Ahmedabad
Satguru Enterprises Nagpur
Sri Ram Traders Karnataka
15
RAYMOND VAPI, TEXTILE UNIT
Vapi Plant Layout

The Raymond textile plant situated in Vapi, Gujarat is the youngest member of the
family. It is a 112.61 acres plant in which 94.43 acres of land is dedicated to the
industrial area while 18.18 acres of it is the residential area.
16
The installed capacity of Vapi unit is 154 looms and 21840 spindles. The unit has a work force of more than
1500 and produces 25 million metres of fabric per annum with an annual turnover of Rs. 300 crores. The unit
became operational in the year 2006.
The following table briefly describes the various departments of this unit with the approximate no. of
workers in each one of them.
S.NO
.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
DEPARTMENT NAME
Designing & Sampling
Supply Chain Management
Wool Scouring
Grey Combing
Converter
Re-Combing
R.M.G
Dyeing
Spinning
Weaving
Mending
Finishing
Folding
Quality Control Lab
Stores
Warehouse
Yarn Room
Human Resource
Instrumentation
Mechanical
Administration
Civil
Electrical
Commercial
ETP
Product
Safety
Sales
Works
TOTAL
NO. OF
WORKMEN
136
nil
1
26
3
91
1
89
277
325
14
191
34
27
2
52
12
NO. OF STAFF
16
8
17( for 3,4,5,6)
1
17
19
33
4
17
9
8
9
40
8
1
16
11+1(SALES)
4
9
9
7
2
2
9
1,355
6
1
1
1
1
1
214
17
ORGANISATION CHART
18
PROCESS FLOW CHART
DESIGNING
MARKET STUDY
SAMPLE PREPARATION
DESIGNING
DESIGN BOOKING
DESIGNIN
SCM
PLAN
CONTROL
REGULATIONS
PRODUCTION
MATERIAL DISPATCHFROM RMG
BULK PRODUCTION BEGINS
DESIGNING
SCOURING
WOOL WASHING
DESIGNING
GREY COMBING
CARDING
GILLING
COMBING
DYEING
DESIGNING
TOP DYEING
CHESSE DYEING
BUMP TOPS
FABRIC DYEING
RECOMBING
DEFELTING
BLENDING
COMBING
BUMP TOPS
SPINNING
GILLIN
G
RUBBIN
G
RING
FRAME
AUTO
CORNE
PLY
WINDIN
TFO
STEAMI
NG
DESIGNING
19
YARN ROOMS
STORAGE FOR YARNS
DESIGNING
WEAVING
WARPIN
G
BEAMI
NG
DRAWIN
G
GAITIN
G
WEAVIN
G
GREY
PERCHIN
MENDIN
G
FINISHING
GREY
SCOU
RI-NG
HEAT
SETTIN
G
SING
EING
ROP
E
SCO
PERC
HI-NG
SHE
ARING
DAM
PING
PRES
SING
KD
FOLDING
INSPECTIO
N
LAPPING/ROLLI
NG
TAGGING
PACKING
WEIGHING
WAREHOUSE
BALE PACKING
STORAGE
READY TO DISPATCH
20
DESIGNING
On 3rd June15 we met Mr. Sandeep Das and Mr. M.R. Patil who agreed to tell us what
all processes are involved in the designing department.
Designing comprises aesthetics added to enhance the beauty of fabrics. As the name
suggests the designing department is entrusted the job of designing the fabrics
produced by Raymond.
PRINCIPLE OF WORKING:
Determining the quality, pattern and color types of the fabrics to be produced
every season.
Domestic production is attended one season prior to delivery while that for
export one year before hand.
PROCESS IN BRIEF
Fabric design forecast books are ordered at different trend setting companies all
over the world and these obtained designs are modified and altered to come up
with innovative and fresh designs of the season.
Once the design has been finalized, it goes for sample production.
The master card containing all the necessary and vital informations regarding
the fabric is prepared. These are sent to the dealers and agent at various centers
for booking. After booking the final bulk production starts.
FUNCTIONS
The departments major function is Product development, hence everything that is
made in the textile unit of Vapi is properly planned here before execution. The
following list further throws light on the departments role in the unit.
Development of collections for all the markets domestic, exports
Technical service (determining the technical details of count, TPI, twist direction,
etc.)
To demonstrate the following functionality of Designing Automation System as
per Raymond Business requirements:
Linking Of Designing Department to Export/ Product Department.
Color Story Generation
Bulk /New Shade Generation
Entry of New Cloth Card for Feeler and Sectional Sample
Yarn Order/Yarn diversion For Samples
Yarn Consumption and Yarn Reservation
Follow-up of samples from SPAC To Warehouse
21
Query Module based on Market, country, party, season, sample type, brand,
sample instruction number etc.
Study the design & combination for reproducing in existing blend (Designer)
Following is the process flow chart of the design department in detail:
yze the design and prepared cloth sample card as per decided shade range for particular blend/season (Designe
Create Filler Length Card no. in SAP and allot piece no. (Designer)
Allot new shade reference no. (Designer)

Issue dyeing Plan (Designer)
Send to sampling dept. for production
Receive the grey fabric from sampling dept. and send to mending & finishing (Designin
Sample received at folding dept. (checking- folding dept)
Send to QC dept for testing
Warehouse
Selection of sectional blanket (Designer or Product dept.
Send for approval to respective department (Designer Or Product d
22
Receive approval from civil product dept.
Allot a new bulk material no. (Designer)
Allot a new bulk shadeSend

no. (Designer)
Master card entry (Designer)
to system for shade uploading in SAP (Designer)
Yarn Lea checking at a time of bulk warping

First loom
(Designer)
out grey strip checking (Designer)
If required, check the first bulk folding card (Designer)
The following is the process flow chart showing an example how the designing
department caters to the demands of the domestic market:
Color/Design Story
New Cloth Card
Sectional card
Piece Ticket
(Master Card)
Filler Card
Selection (Lab dip)
Costing (at Thane)
Hanger
Sent to nationwide
dealers
Dyeing Plan issued
Order multiplied on
Piece Ticket
Agents take up
bookings and
23
SAMPLING
After the designs have been booked and confirmed by the market as well as the
headquarters (i.e. Thane), samples are prepared as per the designs forwarded to them
by the design department.
Both yarn and fabric samples are made here using similar machines that are used for
bulk orders.
Following is the process followed when sampling yarns. The yarn samples weight
range from 1g to 50g.
Blend From
Dyeing
Re-combing
NO
Shade passed from
dyeing?
Gilling
Spinning
preparation
O
K
Spinning
Ring Frame
Auto Coner
Steaming
Ply Winding
Yarn room
T.F.O
Steaming
Yarn Delivery
24
Yarn Room
The following process is followed while sampling fabrics. The fabric sample size ranges
from 3m 49m.
Piece Tickets from
Designing
Plan workout
Warping
Manual Drawing
Automatic
Drawing
Loom
Grey Perching
Mending
Finishing
Folding
Warehouse
Dispatch
25
Following is the table briefing all the various machines being used in this department:
S.N MACHINE
O
TYPE
MACHINE NAME
QUANTITY
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
NSC
NSC
NSC
Textool
Padmatex
PS Matter
Leewha
Suzuki
Supervega
Picanol
CCI
CCI
1
6
2
14
1
1
5
6
2
16
2
2
Defeltor
Gillbox
Comber
Ring frame
Auto Coner
Ply Winding
T.F.O.
Warping
Auto Drawing
Loom
Warping (3m)
Loom (3m)
26
WOOL SCOURING
On 28.May 2015 we met Mr. Paresh Ajmire of Scouring Department who gladly agreed
to explain us all the processes involved in the wool scouring department.
Scouring is the process of removal of impurities such as oils, wax, gums, soluble
impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic
and clean cloth. Raw Wool bought from the farms contains impurities such as wax,
fatty acids, dust/dirt, grease, vegetable matter etc., which is removed by scouring.
Objectives of Scouring:
To remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic

character as completely as possible
To increase absorbency of textile material
To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical

or physical damage significantly.
RAW MATERIAL
Merino wool from Australia and South
Africa is used as raw material for daily
production in the unit, which is bought, by
Raymond, by means of auctions thrice a
year. The company uses wool in a range of
16.5-24.5 microns. The average diameter
that is used on a daily basis is 22.5 microns.
It is commonly 65100 mm (2.63.9 in) long.
They procure about 20 ton of wool from
Australia while 14-15 tons of the same is
procured from South Africa.
27
Few companies from which Merino wool is bought:

AUSTRALIAN COMPANIES
Australians Wools Export
P J Morris Pty Ltd.
Williams Wools Export
Fox & Lillie Pty Ltd.
Dynon Exports
Queensland Exports
Swan Wools
United Wool Company
SOUTH AFRICAN
COMPANIES
Standard wool
MACHINERY USED
The Raymond Vapi Unit
has
one
dedicated
scouring
machine
manufactured by ANDAR
HOLDINGS
LTD.
from
New Zealand. Raymond
Vapi is the only textile unit
in India to have this fully
automatic
scouring
machine.
COST: 18 crore (bought in 2006)
MAXIMUM CAPACITY: 950 kgs/hour.
Major features of this machine are as follows :-
28
The final product is of consistently high quality, especially with respect to

cleanliness and colour
Water, detergent, chemicals, energy and labour are used efficiently
The effluent is treated and is disposed of in an efficient and environmentally
responsible manner.
Fully covered, fully protected machine
Consists of feed control as well as temperature control
Fully automatic
is
These advantages decrease a lot of man power

involvement therefore the number of workers in the plant
very less as compared to the other plants we have
visited. Auto drain, temperature control and speed
increases the production rate and a higher production
leads to better profits.
29
Following is the process flow chart of the wool scouring department:

WOOL
SCOURING
Opening
(Dry State)
Hopp
er
Double drum
(Further
beating)
Water level
and pH
indicator
Removes
dust
Further, opens the

fiber
Removes dust (refuse
used in gardening)
Opening &
beating on
feed lattice
Feed rate controlled

through control
panel
1st
Bowl
Wool washed with

hot water, detergent
& soda
Squeezing
roller
Excess water and mud

removed
2nd
Bowl
Further washing (at

62C)
3rd
Bowl
Further washing (at

60C)
4th
Further washing &

rinsing in only hot
water
5th
Bowl
6th
Bowl
Drying machine (Avg. Moisture
14-15%)
Zone 1 (7080C)
Zone 2
(70C)
Zone 3(7075C)
30
Step Dust
Cleaner (3
beating
Entangled dried fiber

opened, micro dust
Ducting
Zone
0.6% Oil spray(Antistatic & Lubricating
Sent to Grey
Combing section
through pipes
FUNCTIONS:
Since each part of the sheep comprises of a different quality, hence, after procurement
the bulk raw material goes through a 6 round distribution to separate the same
according to the diameter of the wool.
1. The bales of wool of the same quality are loaded on the machine manually wool
fibers are opened and through the conveyor belt and takes it to the feed hopper.
The raw wool passes through the beater which helps in removing the dry dust
and help in mixing the fiber.
2. The feeding hopper further beats the fiber and the fibers are carried by inclined
lattice containing pins which further opens the fibers. Further, the fibers are
transferred to the Double drum through the conveyor belt.
3. Double drum opener consists of two beating rollers which beats the wool. 60 %
dust particles removed here.
4. Wool fibers are again opened and beated on the feeding lattice, the feeding rate
can be controlled through the control panel. Wool of coarser micron move
through the machine at the formers maximum speed capacity i.e. 1000 Kg/Hr,
while the finer wool fibers move at the speed of 700-800 Kg/Hr, which is the
machines minimum.
5. There are 6 bowls for wet cleaning of the wool. Three successive scouring bowls,
with squeeze presses located between the bowls. Usually three bowls containing
water at 60oC- 65oC with a non-ionic detergent are used. The wool is immersed
by a suction drum as it enters each bowl, and is gently transported across the
bowl by the reciprocating action of a series of rakes.
6. Rinsing in two cold water bowls and a final hot water rinse bowl.
7. Wool obtained from the bowl is dried. Each drying chamber has perforated rollers
which help to dry wool.
8. Hot air drying to a specific moisture content (regain). M.R. = 14-15%
9. Post-scouring dust removal and de-tangling by mechanical action using a Step
dust cleaner.
31
10.
Oil is sprayed in the
ducting which acts as a lubricating agent, applied for smooth flow of wool, acts
as an anti-static agent. It also helps in reducing crimp. Amount of oil applied is
0.6%.
11.
Lubricating
agent:
SELBANA 4554- 70 % ,SELBANA 3001 UN- 30 %
Moisture meter is fitted in the machine for checking and monitoring the amount of
moisture. It is sent to bins via vacuum pipes. The wool is then sent to the carding
section. This saves both time and cost. The whole machine is operated by a single
operator.
OBSERVATIONS
Efficiency of the Machine 70-80%.
Input to output material ratio 100:65
PARTICULARS
Workers
SPECIFICATION
1
Contract workers
Staff
Area sq mt
3
17
2175
Production capacity (per 10 tons/day

day)
32
GREY COMBING
Grey coming includes the processes which prepares the scoured wool for spinning. This
department includes
Carding
Pre-g illing
C om bing
Postgilling
CARDING: Before the raw stock can be made into the yarn, the remaining impurities
(vegetative matter) must be removed, the fibers must be disentangled, and they
must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into a somewhat
parallel lengthwise alignment. This
is necessary for all staple fibers;
otherwise, it would be impossible to
produce fine yarns from what is
originally a tangled mass. This
initial process of arranging the
fibers in a parallel fashion is known
as carding. Here, the remaining
vegetable matter, neps, burres, dirt
etc is removed thoroughly.
This department has 2 carding machines namely NSC Thibeau Carding Machine, that is
manufactured in France.
The scoured wool from the previous department is first manually fed to the carding
machine where in the 1st opening on the machine #1 burre (white in color) is removed
from the scoured wool. After the 1st opening, #2 and #3 burres(mud/dust) are removed
in the second opening. The machine consists of three types of cylinders. They are as
follows:
1. Cylinder no.1 of the machine seperates the entangled fibers.
33
2. Cylinder no.2 called the Doffer Comb Section has a mesh-like covering over
the cylinder/roller which converts the wool fibers to slivers. It runs at the
speed of 1200 rpm.
3. Cylinder no.3 is the Doffer Comber, which is attached just in front of the
Doffer comb, oscillates up and down on the slivers to draft (flatten) them.
Then the draft goes through the condenser which condenses the slivers to a thinner
form which is then transferred to the sliver can.
1. PRE-GILLING: The carded sliver
subjected to a sequence of gilling
process, where the fibers are further
parallelized, evenness of the sliver is
increased and the left over impurities
are removed.
The department has three gilling machines,
with 8 ends as input, which undergo this
process back to back. They have NSC GC30 gill boxes manufactured in France. The
sliver is pre-gilled before combing for uniform mixing, opening and parallelization of
sliver.
2. COMBING: When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an
additional straightening called combing. In this operation, fine-toothed combs
continue straightening the fibers until they parallelism that the short fibers,
called noils, are combed out and completely separated from the longer fibers.
This process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which in turn,
produces a smoother and more even yarn.
The department has 10 combing machines, with 24 ends as input, in which the short
fibers and vegetable matter, neps are removed. The short fibers are removed
according to the nip distance specified, depending upon the micron of the fibre. They
use NSC, Eralf which is manufactured in France. The waste collected, i.e. the short
fibers is reused for making blankets and carpets.
3. POST-GILLING: The combed sliver is further processed in the gilling machine for
further mixing and parallelizing the fiber and to finally convert the sliver into
10kg wool tops. They use NSC GC-30 gill boxes manufactured in France. This
department has 2 gilling machines having 5 ends and 8ends. The second gilling
machine is further attached to bump press machine which converts the sliver
into wool bump tops weighing 10 kgs each. The bump top machine used is
VALVAN BALING SYSTEMS manufactured in Belgium.
34
Machinery Used:
S.No.
1
2
3
4
5
Process
Carding
Pre-gilling
Combing
Post-gilling
Bundling
Name of the Machine

NSC-Thibeau (France)
NSC-GC (France)
NSC-Eralf (France)
NSC-GC (France)
Valvan bailing System-Bump
Press Machine (Belgium)
Quantity
2
3
10
2
1
CONVERTER: The second major raw

material used is polyester which comes in
the form of continuous filament. In order
to blend it with wool, we need to cut the
polyester filaments into a length which
matches that of the wool fibers. Thus the
converter cuts the continuous filament
into desired length. The end product of
the converter is polyester top.
The raw material used by Raymond Ltd. Vapi is polyester tow which is sourced from
Reliance, Mumbai and measures from 1.5-3 Denier. The following process is this
Creeling
Stretchin
g
Relaxati
on
Cutting
Gilling
Opening
Sliver
Formatio
n
department:
S.No.
1
2
3
Process
Creeling, Stretching,
Relax, Fed to cutting
zone, Gilling
Gilling
Bundling
Machine used
Toe to Top Convertor NSC TT12 (France)
Quantity
1
NSC-GC (France)
Valvan baling System Bumb
Press Machine (Belgium)
3
1
35
DYEING
On 29th May 2015, we were introduced to Mr. J. Prakash who gladly agreed to explain
all the processes of the respective department.
Dyeing is the process to provide the textile/yarn/fiber with colour either for aesthetic
reasons or for some functional purposes determined by the product.
In order to get the required color, wool can be dyed in any of the following three forms
Top, Yarn or Fabric. For wool mainly top dyeing (fiber) is done. In case of outside
orders, Silk and other fibers are yarn dyed. Before dyeing the bulk, a sample is dyed
for matching the colour on spectrophotometer. Once the required shade is obtained,
bulk dyeing is done.
The Raymond plant is a worsted plant and it has been in the market for 90 years,
therefore, they have the recipe for almost all the colors that have been running
successfully in the market. In the event of an exclusive buyer asking Raymond to
produce a specific fabric, the buyer gives a sample of the fabric and asks Raymonds
executives to show a range of fabrics that match closely to the given sample.
Fiber Sampling
The sample is taken and checked if the same colour has been made earlier or not. If
the recipe is available, production is started, or else the recipe is developed.
The sample is first placed in Computer Colour Matching and the nearest recipe is noted
and then checked manually.
Depending on the colour required 3-5 samples with different weight of colors are dyed
and then the samples are checked with the sample given by the buyer and the recipe
is finalized.
36
Yarn Sampling
The sample is taken and shade matching is done first manually by experts and then
the sample is placed in the Computer Color Matching Machine to get the closest recipe
which is economically viable and that gives the best color fastness and closest match
to the buyers sample.
For yarn sampling the UGOLINI PPA-120 Machine (Auto Dispensing Lab Unit) is used.
The yarn is wound on a cylinder and the weight of the yarn is 20g. The process
parameters for yarn dyeing of wool remain the same but the process is carried out on
a small-scale and hence the ML ratio changes.
Depending on the colour required 3-5 samples with different weight of colors are dyed
is finalized.
Fabric (Piece Dye) Sampling

The sample is taken and shade matching is done first manually by experts and then
the sample is placed in the Computer Color Matching Machine to get the closest recipe
which is economically viable and it gives the best color fastness and closest match to
the buyers sample.
For yarn sampling, ANTHRA Lab (Miniature Colour Service Machine) is used to give out
the colors and chemicals. Five pieces of a fabric are sandwiched and then 1-3 such
samples are created and put in the PIECE DYEING MACHINE (Sample). The process
parameters for piece dyeing of wool remain the same but the process is carried out on
a small-scale and hence the ML ratio changes.
Depending on the color required, 3-5 samples with different weight of colors are dyed
is finalized.
TOP DYEING
37
Top dyeing is the dyeing of the fiber before it

is spun in to yarn and serves the same
purpose as stock dyeing, that is, to produce
soft, heather like color effects. The term top
refers to the wool fiber from which the short
fibers have been removed.
For Top dyeing process, wool and polyester
are dyed separately as they have different
properties.
Wool is dyed using metal complex and
reactive dyes while polyester is dyed using disperse dyeing.
Receiving of new dyeing

Changing
planthe new dyeing planProduction
in SAP
Planning
Grey material planning
Dyeing process
Loading of carrier in dyeing machine
Pressing ofMachine
materialwise planning by shift executive
Following is the brief process flow chart followed in top dyeing:
Feeding of dyes/chemical that is in schedulercolour

Unloading
of service
carrier from dyeing machine
Hydro extraction process
Preparation of blend card

Shade matching
Sample blending
Sending dried samples for testing
Dyeing process
Delivery of material to recombing

Final RT shade
Filling
approval
of dyes & chemicals in hoppers/drums of color servic
38
Gilling
Backwash
Steaming
Dyeing
Planning of dyeing
Process :
The recipe once made by the dye-sampling department is sent to the dyeing
department.
In the COLOR-SERVICE (SKADA-Machine imported from Italy)
The necessary colors are weighed; i.e. the container moves from one end
to the other amongst the 76 cellos/hoppers that have different colors and
the required colors, present in powder form, are weighed and robotically
transferred to the container. The container has a stirrer and water at 50C.
The Colour Service has 2 such containers.
After the final dissolutions of the powder dyes in water, the solution is then
transferred through the DISTRIBUTOR system to the kier machines.
In the same room there is an auto dispersing machine which sends the
necessary chemicals required for top dyeing to the DISTRIBUTOR system.
The Distributor then stores the incoming dyes in one tank and other chemicals in
the other and adds necessary amount of water and then both the dye and the
chemicals are transferred from the DISTRIBUTOR to the various machines i.e TOP
DYEING and the PIECE DYEING machines present in different areas of the plant
through overhead pipes.
The fiber is first put inside the Kier Boilers and then the command is given from
the main industrial computer.
The Programs P1,P2,P3,P4 are assigned for Polyester where temperature is maintained
at 130C for all the four processes but the concentration of chemical and dyes and the
required time for each program varies accordingly. For example :TYPE
SHADE
SHADE
CODE
POLYESTER
Light
Medium
Dark
P1
P2
P3
PROCESS
TEMPERAT
URE
130C
130C
130C
PROCESS
TIME
(mins)
20
30
45
39
Extra Dark
P4
130C
60
The Programs W1,W2,W3,W4 are assigned for wool where temperature is maintained
at 98C for all the four processes but the concentration of chemical and dyes and the
required time for each program varies accordingly. For example :
TYPE
WOOL
SHADE
SHADE
CODE
Light
Medium
Dark
Extra Dark
W1
W2
W3
W4
PROCESS
TEMPERATU
RE
98C
98C
98C
98C
PROCESS
TIME
(mins)
30
45
60
90
Hydroextractor :-The top in the form of dyed sliver, is placed in the centrifuge
to remove excess water and the waste water is then sent to the Effluent
Treatment Plan.
QUANTITY - 3
Once the excess water is removed the fabric
is then placed in the R-F Dryer in which the
heat remains the same but the speed of the
conveyor belt and the height between the belt
and the heating surface is changed, so as to
maintain the moisture content of wool (16%)
and polyester (4%), according to top height
difference and material to material.
QUANTITY 3
Dried fiber is sent to the Re-Combing Section where

it is blended with other colors of dyed top to produce desired shades.
Polyester is dyed in the range of 4.5 5.5 pH and the various auxiliary chemicals used
are :CHEMICAL
NAME
Auxigreen
Traperse BF
Finosil
Fraviosist RC SS
Finostat
Machines
S.N MACHINE
PURPOSE
Acid
Dispersing Agent
Levelling Agent
Reduction Clearing Agent
Antistatic Agent
QUANTI
CAPACITY
40
O.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
LORIS BELLINI KIER BOILER (ITALY)

LORIS BELLINI KIER BOILER
LORIS BELLINI KIER BOILER
LORIS BELLINI KIER BOILER (HYDRO
EXTRACTOR)
STRAGFIELD R-F DRYER
TY
14
14
14
3
30kg
120kg
240kg
PIECE DYEING
The dyeing of fabric after weaving is known as piece dyeing. It is one of the most
common methods of dyeing. In Raymond, piece dyeing is done by batch process using
soft-flow machines.
In piece dyeing, wool and polyester are dyed in a single process but the auxiliary
chemicals and coloring agents differ. Wool is dyed using metal complex and reactive
dyes while polyester is dyed using disperse dyeing. Viscous fabrics are dyed using
Reactive Dyes.
Following is the brief process flow chart followed in PIECE dyeing:
Plan order release orderAvailability
in SAP
of shade Availability
card
of shade cardRaw material receipt
Dyeing
Unloading of material
Machine loading
Lot making
Machine wise planning
Drying Sending dried samples forChecking

testing of dyed material
Delivery to finishing
Process
The recipe once made by the dye sampling department is sent to the dyeing
department.
In the COLOR-SERVICE (SKADA Machine imported from Italy)
41
The necessary colors are weighed; i.e. the container moves from one end
to the other amongst the 76 cellos /hoppers that have different colors and
the necessary colors present in powder form that are required in the final
fabric are weighed and robotically transferred to the container.
After the final addition of all the power colors required for the final dyeing
of TOP or FABRIC , it is dissolved in hot water at a temperature of 87C and
Transferred to the DISTRIBUTOR system
In the same room there is an auto dispersing machine which sends the
necessary chemicals required for top dyeing to the DISTRIBUTOR system.
The Distributor then stores the incoming dyes in one tank and other chemicals
in the other and adds necessary amount of water and then both the dye and the
chemicals are transferred from the
DISTRIBUTOR to the various machines i.e
TOP DYEING machines and the PIECE DYEING
machines present in different areas of the
plant through overhead pipes.
The fabric is first put inside the Brazolli SoftFlow machine and then the command is
given from the main industrial computer that
is CAD enabled which allows complete
automization.
Once the fabric is dyed a sample is cut and verified by the authorities by
matching it with the original in the COLOR EYE-7000A Spectra light Machine
After inspection the dyed grey fabric is taken to the finishing department for
drying in the STENTER machine.
Wool is dyed in the range of pH and the various auxiliary chemicals used for Poly-Wool
are :
CHEMICAL NAME
Green Acid
Sodium Acetate
Lyogen DFT
Lyogen SMUI
Wool Safe
RC 55/
Transclean FL
PURPOSE
Acid
Maintains pH buffer solution
Polyester Leveling Agent
Wool Leveling Agent
Wool Protecting Agent
Reducing Agent
Soaping Agent
Machines
42
S.N
O.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
MACHINE NAME
ORIGIN
CAPACITY
BRAZZOLI
SANJAY I
SANJAY II
ANTRASS I
ANTRASS II
JIGGER (I, II, III, IV) (For viscose
dyeing)
CALICO (Jet dyeing)
EC I (Sampling machine)
EC II
ITALY
INDIA
INDIA
ITALY
ITALY
INDIA
1000m (8pieces)
500m (4pieces)
500m (4pieces)
250m (2pieces)
250m (2pieces)
3-4 pieces
INDIA
3pieces
15 meter
7 meters
43
RE-COMBING
On 30.May.2015 we met Mr. Ganesh Karg who introduced us to all to the processes
involved in the department of Re-Combing.
The dyed tops from the dyeing department are brought in this department for further
combing or mixing of the dyes shades, especially for mixing up dyed blends (polywool, poly-viscose etc.), also for straightening and stretching of fibres to obtain
maximum spinning capacity. It is also done to remove neps and slubs formed during
dyeing process, as well as other remaining short fibers and neps. The wool and
polyester are mixed according to the ratios 70:30, 40:60 and so on.
Two types of shades are required to be re-combed here, they are:
1. Normal Shade: The dyed tops of same color, but
different fiber composition, are mixed together for
proper blending of dyed fibers together. That is if the
end product needs to be a Poly-Wool top dyed in blue
color, then the slivers from tops, dyed together or
separately, need to be mixed well to get an even shade
throughout.
2. Mixture Shade: In this, the yarn tops of different
colors need to be mixed together in specific quantities
to get another shade.
The department has two types of gilling machines according
to its capacity/ quantity of tops gilled together. These gilling machines, apart from
mixing the slivers, also spray oil and water on them for conditioning. The two types
are:
S.N
O.
GILLING MACHINE
TYPE
(MACHINE NAME)
1.
DEFELTOR (NSCFRANCE)
BLENDER (NSC
FRANCE)
2.
TOP
CAPACITY
TO BE
GILLED
100-200 kgs
MAX.
SPEED
>200 kgs
300-400
rpm
250 rpm
NO. OF
SLIVER
ENDS
USED
6-7
QUANTITY
OF
MACHINES
8-10
Two types of oil are used in this department for conditioning. They are-
44
1. Selbana oil 3001 When using

1L of water to spray on the gilled
slivers, 16% of this oil is used.
2. Selbana oil -When using 1L of
water to spray on the gilled slivers,
10% of this oil is used.
Following is the process flow which is followed in the re-combing department of the
unit.
SMALL
QUANTITY
DEFELTER
GILL BOX 1
GILL BOX 2 Or
again GILL BOX 1
LARGE
QUANTITY
Conditioning
with oil and
water
Conditioning
with oil and
water
BLENDER
2nd
Conditioning
with oil and
2nd
Conditioning
with oil and
GILL BOX 1
GILL BOX 2
GILL BOX 3
If mixer shade fails

matching
GILL BOX 4
After gilling, the sliver can is transferred to the comber, where removal of neps takes
place. The feed length is set for short fiber removal. The refuse from the comber is
sent to the Raymond units of Chindwara and Jalgaon, where they are further
carded using cotton carded method and used.
The combed slivers are then sent to QC lab for Oil Testing to check if amount of oil is
appropriate or not, if not, then they are sent to the pre-finisher where the slivers are
45
blended again and oil is sprayed. If amount of oil is more than required than the batch
goes to dyeing for washing.
All the batches in this department are tagged according to the product deadline,
GREEN being the maximum days, i.e., 45 days. Yellow and Black tags mean 20-25 days
and 10-15 days respectively.
The now blended slivers are put through the finisher which converts the slivers to
10Kg tops using NSC Top Builder Bump Press.
BUMP PRESSING MACHINE Valvan Bailing System (Belgium)
The capacity of this department is 14 tonnes/day.
MAJOR PROBLEM OBSERVED: One particular problem that we came across

was that about 15-20% of the re-combed yarns shade, as per the composition given to
them, in the department didnt match the given sample shade. This meant that using
permutation combination another set of top of a specific color would be needed to be
dyed again in the dyeing department and then re-combed again to see if it matches
the sample or not. This is a time consuming process which in turn decreases efficiency
and increases cost and labour.
CAUSE OBSERVED: It was seen that when testing sample was made, no such
variation had come across but when the same composition was used in bulk, there was
visible variation in the shade. Hence, we deduced that there must have been a slight
shade variation in the sample which wasnt clearly visible to the eye, and the bulk
mixing amplified the variation to become visible.
PROPOSED SOLUTION: We came up with two routes to solve this problem:

1. Use of computerized color matching system properly, with larger number of
readings, instead of naked eye observations, to avoid any kind of discrepancies
in deduction of shade variation.
2. Using a slightly larger sample to help deduce the latent shade variations easily.
However, making larger samples for every lot would be expensive as well as time
consuming. But investing in larger samples is much better than wasting more
money and time in re-dyeing a whole batch.
46
SPINNING
On 29.May.2015, Mr. Sanjay Ajgaonkar showed and explained us the entire spinning
department.
Spinning is the twisting together of drawn out strands of fibers to form yarn, though it
is colloquially used to describe the process of drawing out, inserting the twist, and
winding onto bobbins. It is a major part of the textile industry.
CONDITIONING
Before the spinning processes start, the tops from recombing department are taken to
the spinning department (carried in a trolley) and are kept for conditioning. The
conditioning room is closed and the humidifiers are installed in it for humidification. It
47
is done to increase the moisture in wool tops to an optimal 14% and is done by the
humidifiers that spray water on the tops. Polyester tops do not require conditioning.
Spinning is divided into three parts:
Preparat
ory
Ring
Frame
Post
Spinning
TOP STORAGE DEPARTMENT

From top dyeing and recombing department the material comes to the spinning
department in the form of tops. All wool tops need to be conditioned before they are
processed in the spinning department. The conditioning is done from 8-48 hours
depending upon the requirement by maintaining an RH of 78% and temperature of
88F.
In the storage section, there are two sections Running Material and Non Running
Material. This is followed by the formulation of the processing plan for various
materials depending upon the blend, count etc.
1. PREPARATORY
Drawin
g
Gilling
Roving
1. DRAWING: Preparatory contains 5 drawing passages, the first two of which are
single headed, the third double headed, the fourth 4 headed and the final one
is a vertical gill passage which is used especially for finer yarns. Done to
parallelize the fibers and to level the sliver weight. The heads of these machines
can envisage the use of combs driven by chains or by revolving cams, or the
use of rotating and toothed discs in the place of combs. The machines are
provided with auto-levellers, generally placed on the second single head
passage. Suction systems and sound proofing casings are mounted on the
drawing heads in order to limit the noise, while safety systems block the access
to the drawing heads if these have not come to a standstill.
2. GILLING: Gilling results in the attenuation in weight per unit length of the sliver
(fining or wrapping) and minimization of irregularities and reduction of the CV%
of material by doubling of slivers as it goes through each gill box.
48
There are 2 gilling lines, one used for fine and another for coarse count
material. Four passages are given before the roving frame, a final passage of
GV-20 is there, which is a vertical gilling machine.
There are 3 gilling lines. The following table briefs them up.
GILLING LINE
NO.
1
NO. OF
MACHINES
4
2
3
4
4
SPEED
200-250 m/min (finer
materials)
100 m/min
220-250 m/min
Each line has 5 gill boxes, with the last one being a vertical gilling machine. With
each gilling the g.u.l decreases. During our visit, the batch (22.5 micron) that
was going through the gilling process, the following decrease of g/l of sliver was
seen through each gill box.
GILL BOX NUMBER
1
2
3
4
5
WRAPPING (g/l)
22
21
11
5.7
3.5
GILL BOX MANUFACTURER: NSC Schlumberger (France)

S.N
O
GILL BOX TYPE
NO. OF
HEADS
FEEDING
SPEED
MAX
DELIVERY
QUANTIT
Y
49
1.
2.
Vertical Gill Box

(GV-20)
Chain Gill Box (GC30)
2 or 4
1
85m/min
(max)
100m/min
(max)
SPEED
(heads)
500m/min(2),
400m/min(4)
600m/min
1X3 = 3
4X3 = 12
3. ROVING: A roving is a long and narrow bundle of fiber which is produced

during the process of making spun yarn from wool fleece, raw cotton, or other
fibers. After carding, the fibres lie roughly parallel in smooth bundles. These
are drawn out, by hand or machine, and slightly twisted to form lengths
suitable for spinning.
Hence the process by which these unspun bundles of fibers are
prepared, before spinning, is called Roving.
The main objective of roving are given below: Attenuation- Drafting the sliver into roving.
Twisting- To insert slight twist into the roving.
Winding- Winding the twisting roving on bobbin.
Package building
ROVING MACHINE NAME: FMV40 VERTICAL RUBBING FRAME

QUANTITY: 3
NO. OF SPINDLES: 24, 20, 20
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
50
Processed materials Wool, long staple chemical fibres, blends

Feeding
Creel for cans of 400 to 800 mm single or double end
Number of bobbins 12, 16, 20 or 24
FMV 41: 420mm
Pitch
FMV 42: 450mm
Roving per bobbin 2
Bobbin diameter
Maxi 300mm
FMV 41: up to 4.5kg according to material
Bobbin weight
FMV 42: from 5 to 6kg according to material
Bobbin ticketing
Automatic
A: 8.5 to 16ktex according to material
Maximal load
B: 7.5 to 14ktex according to material
C: 5 to 9ktex according to material
A:Nm0.66-5
Weight of the
B:Nm1.5-6
delivery roving
C:Nm1.5-6
Rubbing speed
1 vertical tier 1,500 cycles/min maxi
Electronic, without contact with the material, adapted to the
Stop motion
process of any material
Delivery speed
275m/min maxi according to material
12 bobbins: 8,400kg
16 bobbins: 9,700kg
Approx. net weight
20 bobbins: 11,000kg
24 bobbins: 12,500kg
12 bobbins: 36m3
16 bobbins: 42m3
Packed volume
20 bobbins: 45m3
24 bobbins: 48m3
4. Now the gilled slivers undergo rubbing (roving) process. Rubbing provides the
sliver with consistency and firmness.
This final passage of the preparation to spinning has a vertical lay-out. The
drafting zone is followed by two rubbing zones which, thanks to their verticallayout, are easily accessible by the operator. And the delivery, two slivers are
doubled and wound together on the take-up bobbin. The machine is provided
with an automatic device for the unloading of the full bobbins and the loading of
empty tubes. The finer requirement of yarn count. The finer roving is done.
190nm is the finest Raymond Vapi is has produced.
2. RING FRAME
RING SPINNING: Ring spinning is currently the most widely used yarn production
method. Initially developed in America in the 1830s, its popularity has survived the
51
emergence of much faster spinning technologies.

In addition to the superior yarn quality, ring
spinning is extremely versatile. It is capable of
producing yarns with wide ranges of linear density
and twist from a great variety of fiber materials.
The ring frame is fed by roving bobbins and has a
three or four cylinder draft unit with double apron
to ensure fibre control, grooved intermediate
cylinder under the top apron to enable a controlled
flowing of the fibers. The machine uses the
ring/traveler system to impart twist to the yarn
and to obtain in this way the final strength
properties. The spinning frame has integrated
automatic doffing for the unloading of full bobbins and the loading of empty tubes. The
bobbins are conveyed through a tray system. The latest models of spinning frames are
driven by electronically controlled individual motors, which enable to quickly change
twist, speeds and displacements of the ring rail according to the yarn count in process.
The roving in the factory is then sent to the ring frame where 4 types of yarns are
made:
YARN
TYPES
Normal
Yarn
Siro Yarn
Lycra Siro
Yarn
Compact
Yarn
NORMAL YARN- A yarn made out of one roving is the normal yarn.
SIRO YARN- A yarn made by two roving. The twist coming from the spindle gets
distributed equally into the two yarns and then they both get twisted around each
52
other. Hence, a doubled yarn is made on Ring Frame which

saves the further cost of doubling and twisting.
BENEFITS OF SIRO YARN:
High yarn strength
Smooth yarn surface
Excludes separate twisting process
High quality 2 ply folded single yarn with its
unique quality
Low hairiness
Less neps
Low Imperfections
SIRO LYCRA YARN- When an elastic yarn is inserted in the above mentioned Siro
yarn then a Siro Lycra yarn is made.
COMPACT SPUN YARN- In this technology there is a suction created in the
drafting zone due to which the fibers come out in a very small area than in normal
yarn. Due to this the no. of fibers going into the body of the yarn are more than in
normal yarns. Hence, is stronger and less hairy.
ADVANTAGES OF COMPACT SPINNING:
As maximum number of fibers are integrated into yarn body during spinning, so
better utilization of fibers occurs, less fly generation and hence a cleaner
atmosphere in spinning department.
Yarn twist can be reduced by 10% while maintaining the same strength as the
conventional ring yarn. Therefore, it is possible to increase the machine speed
which ultimately results into increased production.
Appreciable reduction in hairiness due to virtually elimination of spinning
triangle.
Increased strength and breaking
elongation of yarn due to less protruding
fibers and improved orientation of fibers,
which leads to full realization of fiber
strength.
Less expensive raw material can be used
produce good quality yarn.
to
Singeing can be completely eliminated.
53
Noil % at comber can be reduced as short fibers are better integrated into yarn
body during spinning.
The improved characteristics of compact yarns gives higher yarn sales price.
Ring Frame MachineOerlikon schlafhorst Zinser 451

(Germany)
Machine Quantity 40 (Siro -16,
Lycra 2, Compact-4, Normal- 18)
Number of spindles - 21840
Efficiency - 89%
STEAMING CYCLE
It is done to stabilize the twist imparted in the
yarn by the ring frame machine.in this process
the yarn in the bobbin form is kept in a sealed
chamber (Xorella). Firstly, the temperature is
made to rise to 60-65C. After a few minutes on
this temperature, vacuum is created in the
chamber. The creation of vaccum decreases the
temperature. Due to this, the water molecules
enter the fibers and open the structural bonds,
after opening they get realigned in the twisted
form and thus loose the tendency to snarl and get stabilized.
There is a water storage assembly at the bottom of the vessel inside in which water is
heated with the help of saturated steam. The water gets heated and realizes steam
inside the chamber. Due to the vacuum creation, the air pores are sucked out empty
whose place is taken by the water molecules.
STEAMING MACHINE: LT-0- Xorella (Germany)
Capacity: 4000 kgs/ batch
54
3. POST SPINNING
Bobbin to
cone
winding
Doubling
Yarn
Twisting
This section includes all operations, through which the yarn is prepared into packages
meeting the requirements of subsequent weaving.
1. BOBBIN TO CONE WINDING- Conversion of small package to big package
and removal of predetermined defects. The automatic winders have the task
of unwinding the yarn from the bobbins and of winding it into cones having a
form suited to the subsequent working stages. In the machine the
dimensions of the yarn is kept under control as the yarn is made to pass
through electronic supervision elements (Yarn cleaners). Should the yarn
dimensions exceed certain parameters (thick and thin places, etc.), the yarn
is cut and spliced.
MACHINE USED: Auto Coner 338
QUANTITY: 7
MACHINE SPECIFICATION
PARTICULARS
Raw material
SPECIFICATIONS
Polyester/Wool (75/25, 65/35, 55,45); Wool
(100%)
55
Average count
No. of drums per
machine
Doffing
Electronic yarn
clearer
Splicers
Feed bobbin length
Magazine feeding
1/53 Nm (1/20 Nm to 1/120 Nm)

60
Automatic
Leopfe Zenit F
Thermo splicers
240 mm
Manual
2. DOUBLING - it is achieved by ply winding machine. In this two cones of

single yarns are fed to one head to wind them together on a parallel tube. A
perfect package shape on ply winding guarantees less breakages on TFO
machine. This procedure is done on a ply winding machine.
MACHINE Stfawirz Ventilator AG (Germany)
QUANTITY 4
3. YARN TWISTING- It aims at imparting twist to two or more doubled yarns to
obtain a stronger yarn, which moreover lends a particular aspect to the
woven or knitted fabric. The machines used at present for this operation are
the two-for-one twisters (TFO).
What is Two-for-One Twisting?
Two-for-One twisting is a textile process to improve
yarn. While twisting two or more single
wrapped around each other. This makes the yarn
smooth without chemical treatment.
Two-for-One Principle
With the Two-for-One twisting system, the thread
receives two turns with one revolution of the
obtain this Two-for-One effect, the protection pot
untwisted feed package is kept in a stationary
the spindle rotor by permanent magnets.
the quality of
yarns are
strong and
spindle. To
with the
position on
With this system, at each spindle rotation, two twists

are imparted to
the yarn. The feeding material can be a cone of doubled yarns, or two cones laid
one on top of the other, in which case the doubling takes place directly on the
spindle. An optical system integrated in the spindle ensures spindle stop in case
of feeding defects, such as thick and thin places, entanglements etc.
56
MACHINE USED: Oerlikon Saurer

Volkmann TFO twister
QUANTITY: 30 TFO machines
SPEED: 120m/min
MANPOWER STRENGTH: Almost 280

workers and 17
staff are involved in spinning department. All
workmen are 12th pass or ITI grade.
PRODUCT RANGE: In this department, generally yarn count ranging from 24 Nm
to 120 Nm is made. In special yarns, finest count of 140 Nm from finest wool fiber of
11.4 micron has been made.
SALES AND DISTRIBUTION: Raymond does not sell yarn. All the yarn produced
is used for in-house consumption.
PROBLEM OBSERVED: We observed in this department that while Lycra blends

were been spun, some cones had visibly irregular winding of yarn on the cone.
CAUSE OBSERVED: The irregular unwinding was happening because of the
uneven combing of Lycra before spinning. Hence whenever such a situation

occurred, the entire lot was sent for re-combing to blend the lycra yarn properly and
hence production time increased, with wastage of time and labour.
SOLUTION PROPOSED: Proper standardized proportion of combing for Lycra

should be strictly followed according to the quantity of material.
YARN-ROOM
57
Yarn Room is an intermediary storage location for yarns and it comes in between the
spinning department and the weaving department, in the process flow. This is the
storage room for the yarn that are:
The main function of yarn room department is to arrange all yarn packages
according to
Correct shade number
Correct card no.
PROCESS DETAILS
The tarns are segregated
accordingly in the bins, the Bins
named as A, B, CM.
Total no. of bins: 13
Pallets: 13-24
Stackers: 2
The yarn is weighed and entry is
done in software, where the
information of every yarns are kept
in records. Yarn needed for warping
and weaving is determined by
S.C.M department.
If yarn is not sufficient then it is imported from various exporters like ELEGNT
SPINNERS, BHIWANI, WELSPUN, NOVA PETROCHEMICALS, SAGAR TWISTERS, VIKRAM
WOOLEN etc. or other plants of RAYMOND.
It is the only section that does not add value to the inventory but despite that is critical
for the smooth functioning of the processes.
The yarn room at Raymond, Vapi currently stores 250 T of yarn, on an average. To
make the storage and retrieval of the yarns simpler and systematic, Warehouse
Management System (WMS) is trying to be implemented in Vapi. However,
implementation of WMS requires determination and standardization of the practices to
be followed in the yarn room. The project Implementation of Warehouse Management
System in Vapi aims at studying the requirements, constraints, etc of the yarn room
and coming up with ways to improvise the management of the yarn room.
58
WEAVING
On 1st June 2015, we were introduced to Mr. Rajender Kasuwar, who showed us the
entire weaving and mending department and explained us all the processes involved
in the same.
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads
are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Similar methods are knitting,
felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the
lateral threads are the weft or filling.
PROCESS FLOW CHART
Receipt
of Yarns
Perching
Grey
Fabric
Winding
Warping
Drawin
g IN
Knottin
g
Grey
Fabric
Quality
Checkin
g
Loom
Operatio
n
Gaiting
FUNCTIONS:
The spun yarns are sent to the yarn room from where the SCM orders to issue yarn for
the weaving room. Accordingly, the program or piece ticket of the fabric is generated.
1. Receipt of Yarns: Yarn is issued from the yarn room, according to the fabric order.
The no. of cones are weighed and precise checking of shade no. and batch no. is done
referring to the piece ticket.
2. Winding: After the yarn is received they are wound on the winding machine,
according to the piece ticket.In this stage, cones are divided into equal length of warps
of the fabric on the winding machine, according to the piece ticket.
59
3. Warping: It is done on the warping machine of the

equal length of warps that were made. Warping can be
done either by sectional or direct method. In Raymond,
sectional warping is followed.
4. Drawing: In: Next, the drawingin takes place i.e., a
reed, heald wire and draw pins are attached to the warp
beam. Traditionally, drawing-in was done manually on
the loom but now the factory has auto drawing machine
for the same. The work which used to take 5-6 hours,
now is completed within 2 hours.
5. Knotting: It is the fixing of new warp sheet by clamping knotting process.
6. Gaiting: The drawn beam is now mounted
on the loom using a gaiting trolley.
7. Loom operation: There are two types of
looms used in this department.
The loom operations are monitored by an
online monitoring system called the BARCO
(Belgium American Radio Company) System.
Operational information is added to the
system using the receivers on the machines which is
connected to the server by Bluetooth. BARCO also
monitors proper functioning of the machines by alerting
officers about stoppage or faulty operations of machines.
During the loom operation, regular quality check is done
by the Senior Incharge or Operator.
MACHINE NAME: Picanol Gammax
MACHINE MAKE: Picanol Gammax-4-R weaving
machines
Single rapier loom can insert weft only on alternate rapier traverse.
In many cases this is modified to achieve a higher rapier velocity in the early
and late parts of the movement and thus an over maximum velocity halfway
through the movement.
Due to high rate of insertion the possibility of yarn breakages rate may increase.
Additionally, it is necessary to control the weft by passing it trough an
effective tension arrangement so that the weaving tension will be more uniform,
this can also occurred weft break.
60
FEATURES
Control panel:
The loom is controlled by the control panel with a

micro-computer, the lcd display provides a very
user-friendly human-machine interface, which
shows the production statistic data of each shift
and provides the weft color programming function.
Weft color selection:
The machine adopts electronic color selector up to
8 colors, and the color selection pattern is programmed directly on the machine
control panel.
Wefting:
Wefting mechanism adopts 6-lever wefting structure and can ensure the
adjustment of the rapier entry and exit time and ensure stable wefting and
insertion motion. This machine adopts 4 levers, short connectors and short sley
to complete the beating motion, the rock shaft adopts 110mm(diameter)
seamless tube to ensure the beating strength and can be suitable for high-speed
motion and weaving of heavy and high density fabrics. The rapier transmission
box adopts the advanced helix umbrella gears to ensure stable transmission.
The tension device adopts 3-rear-beam tension structure, which is specially
designed for balancing the warp tension of high-density weaving and can
improve the quality of the weaving fabrics.
Pick finding mechanism:
The machine adopts electronic let-off mechanism with a high-accuracy step
motor and the optimized mechanical take-up system for stable and accurate pick
finding motion. The pick finding motion is very stable and proved to be very
successful and reliable.
The adoption of two pressing rollers on the fabric winding roller enables the
worker to unload the fabric from the fabric roller without stop. The frequent
adoption of bearings for the major moving parts provides better performance
and easier maintenance.
MACHINE NAME- TOYOTA AIRJET
Air jet looms insert the weft yarn using air.
Toyota airjet machines for weaving are
excel in speedy and reliable performance.
61
FEATURES:
Air jet weaving machine is a high speed machine having good quality
For instance on a weaving machine having a speed of 600 rpm the weaving
cycle is 100m/s.
Cam control valves have the advantages of high speed precision of action whilst
the electrically controlled solenoid valves permit easy setting.
Finer count of yarn is used as the weft thread to produce fancy type of fabric.
The Speed of the various Looms used at Raymond, Vapi are:

TYPE
NAME
NO. OF M/C
Rapie
r
Picanol
Gammax
Picanol
Optimax
Toyota Airjet
78
Airjet
AVERAGE
SPEED
400 rpm
COUNTR
Y
Belgium
600 rpm
Japan
68
8
Intake of yarn: 14tonnes/day

Production: 28000mtrs/day
Efficiency (2013-14) 83.6%
8. Quality Checking: After the quality checking is done on the loom for any
defects.
9. Doffing. The grey fabric roll is now removed from the loom after completion of
required length and then is shifted to the perching room.
10. Perching Grey Fabric: In the perching room the fabric roll is weighed and
the defects are found and mended.
The fabric is then send for finishing.
MACHINERY USED:
S.N
o.
1
Process
Machine used
Winding
2
3
Warping
Drawing-In
Loom
Operation
SSM Winding machine

(Switzerland)
Beninger- Ergotech (Switzerland)
Supervega Auto Drawing Machine
(Italy)
Rapier Picanol Gammax 78
(Belgium)
Quantit
y
3
8
3
78
62
5
6
Loom
Operation
Loom
Operation
Picanol Optimax 68 (Belgium)
68
Toyota Airjet (Japan)
PROBLEM OBSERVED
The department has one recurring problem which hasnt been resolved yet. It is the
sudden showing up of a single tight end in the entire fabric width. This tight end isnt
visible throughout the weaving process, perching, or mending. It crops up only after
finishing is over. The tight end may be visible at any part of the fabric.
CAUSE OBSERVED
No specific cause has yet been discovered as there is still a dispute between the
weaving and spinning departments regarding who is responsible for the same.
FINISHING
Finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable
material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn
or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or
clothing.
OBJECTIVE:
To improve the appearance of the fabric, i.e. to make it attractive or lustrous.

To improve the feel of the fabric.
To cover faults in the original fabric.
To improve weaving qualities.
To make sure fabric is free from pills and soiling.
63
To make texture of certain fabrics and make other dimensionally stable.
Once the fabric is mended in the mending department, the following steps are carried
out to finish the grey fabric
Batching/sortin
g (as per
blend)
Grey
scouring
Drying
Heat setting
First
Shearing
Rope
scouring
Singeing
Second
Shearing
Semi finish
inspection
(S.F.I)
Drying
Damping
Pressing
Decatising
BATCHING This is done to obtain sufficient length of cloth that can be processed
at a particular time in a machine. The fabrics are segregated on the basis of Blend,
Quality, Shade and Market.
GREY-SCOURING This process helps in eliminating dust and wax that is applied
during warping. After scouring, drying is done.
Process
Acid wash using

acetic acid, pH
5-5.5
Hot wash (Tank
A) 80C
Chemical wash
(Tank B)
Chemical
treatment (Tank
C)
Cold wash
(Tank E) at
room temp
Hot wash (Tank

D) 80C
64
The Grey scouring has 7 chambers named A-G and each chamber has its own function
to carry out.
Chamber A The fabric is washed at a temperature of 80C.

Chamber B The fabric is dipped in chemicals (Detergent, Anti- Soiling Agent,
Wetting Agent). Detergent: APROKICON
Chamber C Action of Detergent takes place i.e the fabric moves through 20
rollers in the presence of detergent and hence the impurities are removed due to
the thorough washing.
Chamber D, E Hot washing of the fabric is done at a temperature of 80C to
remove the detergent and chemicals.
Chamber F - Cold wash of the fabric is done at room temperature.
Chamber G Acid Spray (Oxygreen acid) is done on the woolen fabric to ensure
that the PH is maintained between 4.5 and 5.5 as wool gets degraded in alkaline
environment.
Machine: LAVANOVA
Manufacturer: CEMI, Italy
It is an open-width-scouring machine.
Maximum Speed 50m/min
DRYING AND HEAT SETTING - Dimensional setting of the polyester component

of the fabric.
Process
The fabric is entered into the MAHLO (weft straigtener) unit. The function of the
MAHALO is to set the bow and skew defects. It contains 4 optical sensors which
65
sense any abnormalities in the weft and the subsequent rollers rectify the
mandible bow and skew defects and gives command as how the fabric needs to
be re-skewed by the rollers. The process is carried out at 160C.
After entering the MAHALO unit, the fabric enters the STENTER machine. There
are temples on either side of the machine that regulate the tension of the fabric
from end to end.
Then there is the process of heat setting in the chambers of the STENTER
Machine. Thermic fluid oil is sprayed onto the fabric before it enters into the
chambers. There are 6 chambers provided on the machine. Each chamber
contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.
The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fan
sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to
stretch the warp yarn.
Heat setting is done to maintain the stability of the fabric.

The process is carried out at 185C and at 30m/min.
Machines
The poly-wool section of finishing department has 4 STENTER machines.
Monfort Montex Stenter Machine with Mahlo unit attached (GERMAN)

3 Montex Twin-Air Machine with Mahlo unit attached (INDIAN)
FIRST SHEARING To cut the protruding fibers present on the back side of the
fabric before sending it to the singeing process so that polyester fibers that form beads
and stay on the fabric itself wont stay.
There are 2 types of cutters used:
-
Laser cutter
Spiral cutter
There are in total 6 laser cutters and 6 spiral cutters in a shearing machine.
Process
In the first shearing, the back-side of the fabric is sheared in 4 laser-roller

combination.
The first element is a roller, with a 6 number of blades fixed on it with a helical
displacement, this roller is rolling on a flat blade; the contact between the spiral
blades and the lazor blade is giving the cutting function. The speed of the spiral
blade is 1100 rpm.
The fibers cut by the cutting operation are removed by a vacuum system,
composed of a suction box, placed in the back of the shearing roller.
66
The fabric is brought in the cutting point by the cutting stand. There are
brushes attached to both the cutters to raise the protruding fibers from the
surface of the fabric.
The distance between the cutting point and the cutting stand is called shearing
height, and it is the height that the ensemble of fabric and pile will have after
shearing.
Machine- LAFER, Italy

QUANTITY - 3
SINGEING To burn out the protruding fibers present on the face and back side of
the fabric. Also, it helps in improving the feel and lusture of the fabric.
Process
The fabric passes between two sources of CNG and air flame at such a speed
that only the protruding fibers burn and the main body of the fabric is not
damaged by the flame.
Temperature 850-900 C
Speed 100 m/min
Flame Intensity - 12 mili bar
Machine - OSTHOFF, Germany

QUANTITY - 1
ROPE SCOURING, OPENING & DRYEING - To remove the impurities like

ashes and other dust particles that might have been added up in the previous
processes (SINGEING, SHEARING).
Process
67
Loading
Loading
Detergent+so
Detergent+so
da
da
ph=
8-8.5
ph= 8-8.5
Drain
Drain
Hot
Hot wash
wash
52 deg
52
deg
Drain
Drain
Drain
Drain
Hot
Hot wash
wash
52
52 deg
deg
Cold
Cold wash
wash
Drain
Drain
cold
cold wash
wash
Drain
Drain
Acidification
Acidification
Softener
Softener
The scouring parameters differ from blend to blend. However, the overall process
remains the same.
The fabric is loaded into the

machine.
Chemical Wash is done twice at a
temperature of 52C for half an hour
using soda detergent, maintaining
the pH-8.
Hot wash cycle of 15 minutes each
are done twice and the temperature
depends on the blend.
Cold wash cycle of 15 minutes each are done twice and the temperature
depends on the blend.
Acid wash is carried out for 5 minutes where Oxygreen Acid is added to the
fabric. The motive of doing this is to maintain the ph of the fabric at 5.
Silicone Softener is added to the fabric. The whole process takes 3-4 hrs.
The fabric rope is opened.
The fabric is dried at 160C. The width of the fabric depends upon the market
requirement. The width of the fabric for the civil market is 155cm.
Machines
S.NO
.
1.
MACHINE NAME
ZONCO PRAY-
QUANTIT CAPACITY
Y
4
10 PIECES (1piece = 120m)
68
2.
3.
4.
5.
BIELLA
ZONCO
FLEXIRAPID
SUPERVELOX
TOLO
MATT
10 PIECES (1piece = 120m)
4-5 PIECES
4-5 PIECES
4-5 PIECES
SEMI FINISH INSPECTION (S.F.I) To find defects in the fabric (if any) before
passing it out to the subsequent processes. It is done to remove
1
1
1
Neps
Contamination
Knots
Breakage points
After this, shearing is repeated. But for 2nd time shearing, 2 face and 4 back side and
4 face 2 back side shearing is done. It is then sent for damping.
SECOND SHEARING To shear the protruding fibers present on the back side of
the fabric.
Machine - Lafer
QUANTITY - 3
DAMPING AND PRESSING It is done to remove

wrinkles on the fabric and make it flat. Also, it improves the
dimensional stability and luster of the fabric.
Process
The sheared fabric is passed through the Damping

machine where water is spread onto the fabric at a
rate of 300 liters/hr.
The fabric is then collected at the other end of the
Damping Machine and then carried to the Pressing
machine.
The pressing machine has 2 rollers and the fabric is
placed on the silicon belt. The silicon belt is used so as to prevent direct heat
damaging the fabric. The temperature is maintained at 120C and the pressure
is maintained at 60 mili bar.
At the end of the pressing machine there are calendaring machines which are
used only on the buyers request.
69
Machines
S.N
O.
1.
2.
MACHINE NAME
QUANTITY
ORIGIN
WEKO (DAMPING
MACHINE)
FORMULA 1
MULTIPLA (PRESSING
MCHINE)
GERMANY
ITALY
KIER DECATISING To dimensionally set the wool fiber present on the fabric by
simultaneous application of steam and pressure.
Machine TMT PF2000-1203
QUANITITY - 2
Process
The fabric is passed through rollers to set bow and skew defects, if any.
The machine consists of a satin wrapper and perforated cylinder. Fabric enters
the machine and is sandwiched between two layers of Satin Wrappers. The
reason reor using this is to ensure that the excessive heat and pressure dont act
on the fabric directly and destroy it.
After the entire fabric is rolled along with the satin wrapper, the entire
combination is robotically transferred to the autoclave (kier) machine where it is
kept for 3 minutes under a steam pressure of 1 Bar. After decatizing it is sent for
quality checking followed by folding.
70
QUALITY CONTROL
On 2.June.2015, Mr. Pramod Paranjape agreed to explain us all the various processes
and machines involved in the quality control department.
The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill the requirements of quality
are called quality control. It is the regulatory process through which we measure actual
quality performance, compare it with quality goals and act on the difference.
The goals of the QC department are:
Minimize customers complaints.

Helps in reducing cuts & defects by continuous monitoring and measuring.
Optimizing testing time so that the theory of constraints can be maintained
ZERO reportable incidence
ZERO safety incidence tracable to human factors or human errors.
The raw material i.e. wool as well as polyester is checked in the QC lab. The first
inspection is done after grey combing. The testing is done by random sampling. And a
71
sample from each batch/lot is selected and then checked or tested. Therefore, 100% of
the batch is tested till recombing.
For spinning, random samples are checked from random batches because 100% batch
inspection is not feasible as the quantity is huge. But the QC department makes sure
to inspect each ring frame in 7-14 days.
The final fabric is inspected 100%. The checking takes place in the weaving, mending
and packaging department by the department employees. Therefore a vigilance
checking/ audits/ cross checking is done by the employees of QC department. For
functional tests like tear strength, shrinkage, pilling, abrasion, colour fastness etc, the
fabric swatches come to QC department. The common test methods that are followed
are:
ISO (International Organizations for Standardization)

AATCC(American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists)
For domestic market ISO is followed.

The machines that are used for fiber/yarn and fabric testing are as follows:
GREASE CONTENT AND MOISTURE CONTENT:- The procured raw

wool of sample size 1.5 to 1.8gm is taken with 10 ml of dichloromethane
(CH2Cl2) and the grease is squeezed out using grease extractor and then
weighed to calculate the grease percentage of the wool. The percentage
shouldnt be more than 1.
CH2lCl2
The wool is first weighed on a weighing machine (Initial wt.) after which its kept in an
oven for 1.5 hrs to dry at 100C. The wool is weighed again (Dry wt.).
Moisture Content =
Moisture Regain =
Initial wt .Dry wt .
100
Initial wt .
Initial wt .Dry wt .
100
Dry wt .
Moisture Content of wool should be in the range of 8-18%.

Equipment name: Presto Oven
OPTICAL FIBER DIAMETER ANALYSIS (OFDA):- This machine

calculates the mean diameter of the fiber after combing. Different microns have
72
different length. It is an automatic machine and is connected to a system which

gives the reading. The machine makes the samples and then scans the length
through laser beam. The reading is only given after the machine has scanned
the fiber 4000 times.
TENSO (TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER)

Machine: Presto
This machine tests the tensile strength as well as seam slippage of fabric.
CRE Principle is used to calculate the strength of the fabric.
For tensile Strength: ASTM D-5035
For seam slippage: ASTM D-434 4.
USTER CLASSIMAT QUANTUM :-This machine is used to find out thin

places, thick places and neps in yarns. Both single as well as double yarn can be
inspected on this machine.
USTER TESTER 5 :- This machine is also used to

find out the thin and thick place in a yarn, rove and
sliver. This machine basically calculates the evenness of
a yarn, sliver or rove. It works on the principle of
capacitor. There are different slots for different forms.
The yarn/sliver/rove is inserted and the machine gives
the reading. Min of 1% and max of 3% is the evenness
of all wool and max of 5% is for poly-wool.
73
LIGHT FASTNESS TESTER

Machine: ATLAS
This machine works with xenon light. A fabric sample
is created of 2/5 and placed on a cardboard. Half of
the swatch is covered with the cardboard. This is
then placed in a holder and put into the machine.
This holder with the swatch is left to rotate for 24
hours in case of AATCC Standards and for 42 hours in
case of ISO Standards.
The swatch is then taken out and then checked.
ISO 105 B02
AATCC 16 7.
MARTINDALE ABRASION CUM PILLING TESTER
Machine: PRESTO
The swatch is places in a small disc and a bigger swatch is placed opposite
to it. In case of a pilling test the
same fabric swatch is placed
opposite to the small swatch and
in case of abrasion a standard
non abrading sample is placed.
For abrasion: ISO 12947-2
For pilling: ISO 12945-2
HOFFMAN PRESS (STEAM SHRINKAGE TEST)

Machine: MELDAN
74
This test is done after finishing of fabric but before packing. A sample of
40*40cm is taken and placed in the press. Heat is applied for 45 minutes
using steam and steam pressure from all directions. The final reading is
checked. For all wool sample -2%-+2% will be accepted.
TOP FUSING
MACHINE (HEAT
SHRINKAGE TEST) :-This test is done to check the effect of heat on the
fabric. A swatch of 40*40 cm is placed in the fusing machine (scissor type) in
130 degree Celsius for 30 seconds and the reading is noted.
WASHOMETER
FASTNESS)
(DRYCLEANING COLOUR
75
Machine: PRESTO
This machine is used to check the colour fastness due to dry cleaning a
fabric. The fabric swatch is attached to a swatch of 8 different fabrics and
then put into the machine with perchloroethylene at 30 degree Celsius for
30 seconds. The sample is then taken out and checked. The scale is 1-5. 5
for excellent colour fastness and 1 for poor colour fastness.
WASHING MACHINE WASCATOR (WASHING SHRINKAGE)

Machine: ELECTROLUX
This machine is a normal washing machine used to
check washing shrinkage. If polyester is more than
65% then there are 3 cycles at 49 degree Celsius. If
the blend has more amount of wool then 2 cycles at
49 degree Celsius. If all wool then, no washing is done
only relaxation shrinkage is done. In case of poly
viscose 1 cycle at 90 degree Celsius.
WASHING FASTNESS
Machine: MESODAN
The fabric swatch placed in the machine with detergent and multi fiber
sample. For different kinds of buyers, the detergent used is also different.
For example: Civil: Sunlight soap, Domestic: Surf Excel, Export: ECE
standard and sodium perborate with no optical agents. The washing cycle
is for 30 minutes and the multi fiber swatch is then checked on the grey
scale from 1-5. Where 1 is very poor and 5 is excellent.
76
HYDRAL SHRINKAGE (CONDITIONING)

Machine: PRESTO
Shrinkage due to moisture is checked on a fabric swatch of 40*40cm.
Humidity is applied which leads to hydral shrinkage. The swatch is then
taken out and checked.
RAPID OIL EXTRACTOR:- Different blends have different oil content. Oil is
sprayed on fiber during grey combing and recombing to avoid excess dryness.
Sometimes this oil may increase its required limit. Fixed amount of sample is
along with 50 ml of methanol is taken and put into the funnel. The weight of the
container is measured. The fiber is pushed and the oil and methanol is collected
in the container. The methanol is evaporated. Now, the weight of oil and
container is measured. After subtracting the containers weight, the weight of oil
can be calculated in a particular amount of sample.
GREASE EXTRACTOR:- This is used for scoured wool. The method is same
as in for oil extraction. The difference is only that instead of 50 ml of methanol,
10 ml of dichloro methane is used.
BLEND TESTING :-
Wool dissolves in KOH and

polyester dissolves in metacresol. This is how polywool percentage is derived.
BURETTE :- Burette is used to check the hardness of water. The sample is

dipped in water for 30 minutes. Water fastness standards:
77
ISO 105 E01

AATCC 107
PERSPIRATION FASTNESS
Load of 12.5 Kp is applied for 4 hours.
Standards: ISO 105 E04
AATCC 105
pH METER (ANALAB):- The fabric is boiled in water and then this water is
tested for the pH of the fabric. The pH of the fabric should lie in between 5-7.
DRYER
Company: PRESTO
This machine is used for drying the samples. It gives the MR (moisture
regain) and MC (moisture content) ratios.
YARN APPEARANCE MACHINE
Company: PRESTO
This machine is used to discover the thin, thick and neps in the fiber
manually. The machine has light on the surface and top for clear visibility.
78
YARN TWIST TESTER (FOR

DOUBLE YARN ONLY):-This machine
is used to find out the number of twist in
double yarn. This is calculated by
applying load and tension to the yarn
which rotates on a rotating wheel.
SUBLIMATION FASTNESS TEST :- A sandwich of the swatch is made my

putting the swatch in between a cotton fabric and polyester fabric. Heat is
applied for 180 degree Celsius for 30 seconds. And the fastness is checked on
the grey scale from 1 to 5.
SEAM SLIPPAGE TEST

8 kg of load is applied to the fabric and the amount of opening that takes
place is recorded.
TM-117 25. TEAR STRENGTH
Company: PRESTO
2 cm slit is made on the fabric and and then load is further applied. The
time, pressure is noted to calculate the tear strength.
Standard: ASTM D 1424
SPRAY TEST (WATER REPELLENC TEST)

Machine: PARAMOUNT
250 ml of water is sprayed on the fabric and the penetration is checked. It
is judged on the scale of 1 to 5. 5 is 0 penetration that is excellent water
repellence.
CROCKMETER
79
Machine: PARAMOUNT and PRESTO

This machine is used to check the rubbing fastness.
The sample is placed on the machine and both dry
rubbing and wet rubbing is done. The colour
fastness to rubbing is then checked.
Standard: ISO 105 X12
AATCC 8
ISI PILLING BOX

Machine: PRESTO
The sample is rolled in
cones and put in the pilling
boxes called crockliners and
left to rotate. The sample is
then taken out and
evaluated.
BREAKING STRENGTH TESTER:- The fabric is pulled from both the ends
of the machine and the moment the fabric breaks the weight is noted. The result
is given in pounds which are converted into kgs.
80
ELONGATION TEST (FOR LYCRA BLENDS)

The fabric is pulled from one end with load. This
elongation is then noted down.
81
INSPECTION, FOLDING & PACKAGING

The fabric after finishing goes into the folding department. In this department the
fabric is again inspected and folded according to the market orders. For example,
domestic orders have a length of 15 meters, export is packed according to the order
placed as fabric rolls, and few orders are packed in neutral packing. There is an
inspection before packing.
There are two types of inspection:
Flag system
Four point system
Flag system:
There are two colours of flags red and white. Red is used for major defects and white
for minor defects. For per 100 Dm not more than 10 flags can be assigned with a
maximum of 4 red flags. In case of a more defects, bargaining starts and the fabric is
given at lesser price. This system is followed at the Domestic level.
For example. 2 flags in a 3 meter cloth is not accepted. For each red flag 30cm worth
of fabric is discounted from voice, similarly for each white flag 15 cm worth of the
fabric is discounted from voice.
82
Four point system:

The following table depicts the world wide use 4 Point System:
S.N
o.
1
2
3
4
Range
0-3
3-6
6-9
More than 9
Points
allotted
1
2
3
4
This system is followed at the Export level.

Each buyer has different norms. Generally not more than 40 points is accepted
in 100 yards. Companies like Japan Federation do not accept more than 20
points in 100 yards.
While inspecting, the workers mark 15 meters on the fabric for domestic
packing. For domestic market both front and back of the fabric is checked and
for export only front is checked.
80 units are checked daily, where 1 unit is 120 meters approx.
In the inspection department each worker inspects about 1500 meters of fabric
in 8 hours.
MACHINES:
S.N
o.
1
Type of
Machine
Inspection table
2
3
4
Cutting machine
Tube Rolling
Weighing
machine
Packing
machine
Manufacturers
Almac & Gayatri
(India)
Almac (India)
Almac (India)
Almac (India)
Almac (India)
Quantity
41
13
4
1
8
After the workers mark the good quality fabric of 15 meters with thread, it goes to
the cutting machine where the fabric is wrapped/folded on the cardboard and the
worker cuts the fabric manually.
83
If there are short fabrics like 6 or 7 meters then they go into cut in defects which
are sold in smaller businesses. Then these folded fabrics are attached with their
brand labels and bar codes.
There are 16 barcodes put on the label so that it is easier for the retailer to keep a
record of sold goods.
There are 3 types packaging:
NEUTRAL PACKING: It comprises of a
blank grey board (without a company
logo) which is wound by the fabric and
then covered and packed by the LD film.
PHYSICAL SHIPMENT: It comprises of a
grey board with the company logo
printed on it, which is wound by the fabric and then covered and packed by the
LD film.
TUBE ROLLS: The fabric is rolled on the cardboard rolls and covered by LD
films. The RAL/RMG/Export markets demand such packaging.
These are then packed in Low Density plastics and wrapped in plastic sacks.
Export packages are sewn and domestic is stuck with tapes.
These packages are then sent to the required places. Export packages are sent to
Kalamboli or Mumbai Airport in case of emergency delivery.
WAREHOUSE
The purpose of the warehouse department is to receive folded fabrics, Pack,
Store and dispatch it to its destination. The fabrics received by the ware house
are classified into Civil, Export, RAL (Raymond Apparel limited), RMG (Ready Made
garment).
84
The following are the main function carried out in the

warehouse:
Segregation of goods from folding and shifting of
goods into respective bins.
To organize workmen for bale packing.
To ascertain what suit length to be cut
After bales are weighed to mark them for dispatch in
respective code nos. of Transporter to load the bales
lorry.
To stack the bales which are not dispatched in the
racks after computer entry.
To attend goods in export after consulting Export
targets for current month.
To get the information for preparation of shipment
samples after goods are dispatched.
To prepare export sample folder in consulting Export
packing and to prepare reference sample after the goods are dispatched.
When the packing materials are received in Warehouse or when issued from
stores it is tested against the standard norms.
in
MACHINE DETAILS
MACHINE
BRAND
OBJECTIVES
NO. OF M/C
P.P BOX STRAPPING
EAGLE
to strap and pack the material in

cardboard
P.P STRAPPING
ITW
-SIGNODE
to strap pack the material
SAMPLE CUTTING M/C
LAXMI
to make sample files
LEARNING EXPERIENCE
Our 15-day internship at the Vapi Unit of Raymond has been a great learning
experience as it has not only helped us understand the various textile processes in a
better way, but have also helped us relate to whatever we have been learning, about
85
textile processing, till date in our classroom. The conversations with the operators and
other unit members have helped us understand the various day-to-day operations,
problems and their solutions that they come across.
Not only the processes but we are now also well aware of the various latest
technologies that are being used in the Indian textile industry today.
We have now practically observed and understood everything that we read in our
textbook of our previously studied subjects, that were fabric science I, Fabric Science
II, Dyeing And Printing and Fabric and Garment Finishing. Working with the state-ofthe-art machineries and understanding their technicalities, some of which happen to
be installed only at the Raymond Limited throughout the country, offered a different
yet engaging perspective of the textile production.
SCOPE OF LEARNING
An industry of such a big scale requires more than 15 days, so as to be able to
acquaint ourselves properly to the various departments of the unit. The 15 days time
gives us and opportunity to just understand the major components of the factory.
Moreover, a dedicated personnel should be allotted to each group who would take
them to each department and guide them through all the departments, as it saves a
lot of time for the students who spend a lot of time searching for the right people to
show them the various processes, everyday.
CONCLUSION
After an in-depth study of Raymond Industries, Vapi, we arrive at many conclusions
relating to the industry. Primarily we acknowledge the spirit with which the industry
86
has provided high quality goods to the masses at really affordable prices. The
company was a hub of innovation and technology, blended with a spirit to serve the
people. Raymond has never compromised on the quality in any way and one can
blindly go for a Raymond fabric.
Dedicated staff, high ethics, environmental concerns, corporate social responsibility
and an urge to provide customers the best quality goods at affordable prices have
characterized the company for all the past years. Its uncompromising attitude and
high dedication have always set milestones in the textile industry and has motivated a
lot others to follow the same pattern.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
TEXTBOOKS
87
1. Raymond Induction Manual, Vapi Unit

2. Departmental Procedures Manual, Raymond
3. Fiber to Fabric Bernand B. Corbmann
WEBSITES 1
(For
2 (For
machine technical specifications)

http://www.nsc-schlumberger.com/
http://schlafhorst.saurer.com/
http://volkmann.saurer.com/en/start/
secondary data)
http://www.raymondindia.com/
http://www.swicofil.com/
http://www.nptel.ac.in/courses/116102038/16
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/
http://astm.org/
88

Raymond Limited, Textile Unit, Vapi

Caricato da

Informazioni sul documento

Titolo originale

Copyright

Formati disponibili

Condividi questo documento

Condividi o incorpora il documento

Opzioni di condivisione

Hai trovato utile questo documento?

Questo contenuto è inappropriato?

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

Raymond Limited, Textile Unit, Vapi

Caricato da

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

RAYMOND LIMITED, TEXTILE

PURPOSE OF THE REPORT

Following are the GROUP OF COMPANIES owned by Raymond:

EverBlue Apparel Ltd.

J.K. Files & Tools

a company manufacturing Flywheel Starter Gears and Integral Shaft Bearings

Starter Ring Gears

Flexplate Flywheel Assembly

Profile Sheet Formed Metal Pulleys

Investo Trade(India) Ltd.

registered with Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial

denim major, UCO NV to form a global denim powerhouse - Raymond UCO

Raymond Zambaiti Pvt. Ltd.

J.K. Talabot Ltd.

Raymond (Ready-To-Wear) Raymond (Ready-To-Wear) is a premium

is a fabric brand from the house of Raymond targeting the ever

1925 Setup of The

1958 - The first

1990 - The first

1996 - Raymond's denim; focusing on quality, innovation and the creation of

MARKETS OF RAYMOND LTD.

CLIENTS/BUYERS OF RAYMOND LTD.

RAYMOND VAPI, TEXTILE UNIT

Vapi Plant Layout

PROCESS FLOW CHART

BULK PRODUCTION BEGINS

Following is the process flow chart of the design department in detail:

Allot new shade reference no. (Designer)

Sample received at folding dept. (checking- folding dept)

Send to QC dept for testing

Selection of sectional blanket (Designer or Product dept.

Send for approval to respective department (Designer Or Product d

Allot a new bulk material no. (Designer)

Allot a new bulk shadeSend

Yarn Lea checking at a time of bulk warping

If required, check the first bulk folding card (Designer)

New Cloth Card

Selection (Lab dip)

Costing (at Thane)

Dyeing Plan issued

To remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic

To increase absorbency of textile material

To leave the fabric in a highly hydrophilic condition without undergoing chemical

Few companies from which Merino wool is bought:

Australians Wools Export

P J Morris Pty Ltd.

Williams Wools Export

Fox & Lillie Pty Ltd.

United Wool Company

The final product is of consistently high quality, especially with respect to

These advantages decrease a lot of man power

Following is the process flow chart of the wool scouring department:

Further, opens the

Feed rate controlled

Wool washed with

Excess water and mud

Further washing (at

Further washing (at

Further washing &

Entangled dried fiber

0.6% Oil spray(Antistatic & Lubricating

Production capacity (per 10 tons/day

Name of the Machine