Bucharest in Your Pocket

Maps Restaurants Cafs Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Directory Hotels
Bucharest
April - May 2015
Old Town
A complete guide to
Bucharests liveliest area
Essential Bucharest
Everything you always
wanted to know about
the Romanian capital
but were afraid to ask
inyourpocket.com
N94 - 15.00 lei
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
ONE OF THE BEST
Arriving & Getting Around
Childrens Bucharest
15
Restaurants
16
The tastiest places in the city to eat
Nightlife 34
The citys best pubs and clubs
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Sightseeing
Old Town
50
Where Bucharest goes to party
Shopping
65
Souvenirs, local designers and local wine
Hotels
68
Directory
75
Maps
Street register
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
41
Dont leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials
78-81
82
April - May 2015
Foreword
Where on earth have all those years gone? It feels like only
yesterday that In Your Pocket turned up in Romania, wet behind the ears with dreams of dropping a half-decent city
guide on the countrys capital Bucharest. That we managed
to do so, and that we this issue celebrate no fewer than 16
years in the business is testament not to our staying power,
but to the simple fact that Bucharest grabbed us with both
arms, pulled us to her ample bosom and refused let us go.
Its that kind of city: you dont visit, live or work in Bucharest,
it visits, lives and works in you. And we doubt anyone would
have it any other way.

Bucharest has seen many changes over the many years
we have been publishing our little guide. The city has grown,
become wealthier, more sophisticated and far more visitor
friendly. One thing remains consistent, however: this is still
the smokiest city in Europe, very much the continents smoking section, where it is still very difficult to go anywhere to
eat or drink without your clothes reeking of tobacco by the
end of the night. Surely, 16 years on, its time for this to finally
change?
E S S E N TI A L
Bucharest In YourCPocket
I TY G U I D E S
IYP Romania Srl
Str. Jiului 93, Ap. 14
Bucuresti, Sector 1
Romania
Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18
bucharest@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,

Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per
year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In
Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of
Circulation (BRAT).
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp All Photography IYP Romania Srl unless
otherwise stated Cover Alberto Grosescu @ Dreamstime.
COVER STORY
Sales
To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the
address bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and
ask for the sales department.
This sculpture at the southern

entrance to Herastrau Park (see
page 49) stands in stark contrast
with the modern office building
on the other side of Piata Charles
de Gualle. Part of the same photo
(by Alberto Grosescu @ Dreamstime) also featured on the cover
of a recent BIYP Mini-Guide.
Copyright notice
Text, photos and maps copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2015
unless otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of its review, without written permission from
the copyright owner. The trademark In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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4 Bucharest In Your Pocket
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for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed
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bucharest.inyourpocket.com

ARRIVING AT OTOPENI
ARRIVING AT GARA DE NORD

If you arrive in Bucharest by train you will arrive at Gara
de Nord. It is OK, but has the usual collection of rogues,
tramps and thieves to contend with. There are ATMs,
shops, kiosks, a McDonalds and a KFC. It even now has
free Wifi. To get to town take an honest taxi from the official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who approaches you inside the station). Currently, only taxis from two
reliable Bucharest companies, Meridian and Pelican, are
allowed to pick up fares here. If no taxi is waiting, use
one of the two touch screens to order one. You can also
hop on the metro: you are just one stop away from Piata
Victoriei, or take the bus: No. 123 goes to Piata Unirii,
and trolleybus No. 85 to Piata Universitatii. Tram 44 goes
to Cismigiu. Tickets (in the form of a Card Activ) from the
kiosk next to the bus stop (itself next to the taxi rank).
WARNING: None of Bucharests reputable hostels send
people to Gara de Nord to speculatively meet trains.
Anyone who approaches you (and if you have just got
off the Budapest train and have a backpack, you will
be approached) is trying to scam you: they will try and
divert you from your intended destination (often by saying that the place you want to go to is closed) towards
another hostel or hotel that they will recommend to
you. Just ignore anything they say and wave them away.
Bucharests only commercial airport is Otopeni (officially Henri Coanda), 17km north of the city on the DN1.
Opened in 1970 and recently extended, it is a spacious,
efficient airport. After getting off the plane and easing
your way through passport control, youll find yourself in
the baggage reclaim area. Ignore all of the services on offer here, especially the currency exchange desks. Instead,
grab your luggage (if it fails to arrive head for the small
office on the right hand of side of the exit), and head off
through customs to the arrivals area. Here there are loads
of ATMs, a press shop and a small cafe. To the right is a
passage leading to the departures terminal, lined with
car hire desks and a few shops, including a chemist.
To order a taxi, look for the touchscreens in the arrivals
hall. They are fully automated and very easy to use (and
offer multiple-language options), and you can choose
a taxi from just about the full range of Bucharest taxi
companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed. Once
the taxi company has informed you (via a ticket which
comes out of the machine) how long the taxi will take
to arrive, and what ID number the taxi has, you simply
go outside to wait for it. Make sure you get into the correct taxi: check the company name and ID number is
the same as on the ticket. Ignore the Rapid taxis which
wait on the lower level.
For those who want to head into town in a bit more
comfort than your average visitor, there are three good
private car options: TransVision (airport-transfer-bucharest.com) and VMS City Shuttle (cityshuttle.ro). Both
companies offer a comfortable, reliable airport transfer
service at decent prices.
You can also get to town by taking bus 783, which
stops underneath the arrivals hall, in front of internal
arrivals and leaves for the city centre (stopping at Piata
Victoriei, Piata Romana and Piata Universitatii) every 30
minutes during the day, and then every 40 minutes
throughout the night. The full timetable of the 783 bus
is online at ratb.ro. Another bus, the 780, runs from the
airport to Gara de Nord from 05:15 to 23:00 roughly
every 30 minutes. You need to purchase an Activ Card
before boarding (get it from the little booth which youll
find on your right-hand side as you exit). A return journey into the city costs 7 lei (no singles are available, but
there is no time limit on using the return). You also need
to pay 3.70 lei for the card itself, but it can be recharged
as often as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, and
used on all Bucharest buses, trolleybuses and trams. The
cards cannot be bought on board. There is also a train
which connects the airport to the main railway station,
Gara de Nord. The train departs at irregular intervals,
however, and to get to the airports station you need to
take a minibus. Tiickets are available from a counter in
the Arrivals hall. Look out for the Bilete CFR sign.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bucharest is served by an extensive public transport network, made up of bus, trolleybus, tram and metro. All forms
of public transport in Bucharest are very cheap.
BUCHAREST METRO First opened in 1979, Bucharests
metro was built to ship workers from the vast housing estates
of Titan, Berceni and Militari out to the huge industrial plants
at Pipera, IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats all very well if
you are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to everybody else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and
only the north-south M2 line, from Pipera to Berceni, which
passes through Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the
BUCHAREST TAXIS
By and large, Bucharests numerous cheap and trustworthy yellow taxis are easy to spot as they are emblazoned with the name and phone number of the company they are associated with. To counter this, however,
dodgy taxis also plaster phone numbers over their cars,
alongside copy-cat logos. Be extra careful when getting into a taxi around Gara de Nord, Piata Universitatii,
Piata Unirii and the Old Town / Lipscani area. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or
waiter order you a cab. Never pay more than 1.69 lei per
kilometre in any taxi.
As an alternative to the standard taxis, there are also
now a couple of companies offering a more professional
service and smarter cars. These are Black Cab and VMS
CityShuttle. Black Cab is a taxi service which offers cabs
at much the same price as standard taxis, the only difference being that there is a minimum charge (14 lei).
Regular users can pay monthly, and - best of all - Black
Cabs will travel to the suburbs (Pipera and the like: many
ordinary taxis will not). Black Cabs cannot be hailed on
the street, but can be pre-ordered in a number of ways.
Take a look at blackcab.ro. VMS CityShuttle is similar, with
all fares being a fixed price. They also offer airport transfers and run tours of Bucharest and its surroundings, as
well as the Prahova Valley and southern Transylvania. See
the website cityshuttle.ro for more details. Uber is also
now present in Bucharest, so if you have an Uber account
and the app your phone you can use it while in the city.
Prices are much the same as standard taxis, except that
there is a minimum fee of six lei.
TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES: Apolodor 021
9499, Autogeneral 021 9401, Cobalcescu 021 9451,
Cristaxi 021 9461, Leone 021 9425, Meridian 021 9444,
Mondial 021 9423, Pelicanul 021 9665. Most of these
companies have at least one operator who speaks English.
Some of Bucharests taxi companies now have smartphone apps. The best is CleverTaxi: search for it on
Google Play or the App Store.
April - May 2015
M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, are likely to be of any use to

visitors. In our listings, all venues which are within walking
distance of a metro station carry the M symbol.
METRO TICKETS Tickets for the Bucharest metro are
cheap: they cost either 5 lei (valid for two trips; doua calatorii) or 20 lei (ten trips; zece calatorii) and can be bought
from any metro station. You can also buy tickets valid for
one day (abonament de o zi), costing 8 lei. The metro runs
from around 05:00 to 23:00.
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB) Most main
roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different
transport routes. Many buses are overcrowded, however, and
travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from very early in
the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00 (earlier at weekends), after which the extensive night bus network takes
over. All night buses depart from Piata Unirii.
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will
need to buy an Activ Card before climbing aboard. These
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit
(minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited
each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located
on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On
all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the
age of seven travel free. After that they need a full-price ticket.
TRAINS
Given that Romanias roads are terrible, its comforting to
know that the countrys railways are equally crap. Having said that, many long years of upgrade work on the
Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are

now complete, and journey times are back to something
approaching 1989 levels: around two hours and 30 mins
to Brasov, just under two hours to Constanta. Should you
have to take a train, always try to get an InterCity (IC) or
InterRegio (IR) as they are the fastest and usually have the
most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains are slow and
often use much older rolling stock. You will also see trains
designated as ICN: these are InterCity trains which stop at
more stations than usual. Prices on all types of train are
relatively cheap, but are rising fast. An InterCity adult single
from Bucharest to Brasov costs 90.50 lei. To buy train tickets visit either the station, a CFR agency or buy online at
cfrcalatori.ro. (Note that if buying online you need to do so
at least 24 hours in advance). Tickets cannot be purchased
on board CFR trains, though you can try bribing the guard.
Many locals do this habitually. On the privately run Hyperion train, however. which departs Bucharest for Brasov at
09:00 each morning, you can buy tickets on board. There
is also free Wifi and a coffee machine: a refreshing change
to CFR. Tickets cost just 25 lei. There is, alas, just the one
private train per day at the moment, although more may
follow soon. For more info, see the website softrans.ro. The
full Romanian train timetable is online at cfrcalatori.ro.
AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFRs advance booking offices.
QA-4, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021
313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST

AVIS A delivery and collection service is available free
of charge within the city limits; the service is on request,
and it depends on the availability of the Avis rental office.
QB-dul Theodor Pallady 51, tel. *AVIS (*2847) - OSSN

TOURIST INFORMATION
INFO TOURIST CENTER Privately-run centre on Calea
Victoriei which is phenomenally helpful and perhaps even
better than the citys official tourist information office.
Open Sundays.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021
211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
(One Star Smart Number), (+4) 021 210 43 44, fax (+4)
021 210 69 12, reservations@avis.ro, www.avis.ro. Open
09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (C-5) InterContinental, tel. (+4) 021 314 18 37, Open 08:00 - 20:00; Henri
Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 19 57,
Open 07:00 - 02:00 and Avis Porsche Bucharest North,
tel. (+4) 0723 612 011, Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 15:00, Closed Sun.
BAVARIA RENT QDrumul Garii Otopeni 1B, tel. (+4)
0730 33 37 07, (+4) 031 802 22 22, fax (+4) 031 802 22
28, www.bavariarent.ro. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. Also at Otopeni Airport, tel. (+4) 021 201 45 34,
(+4) 0730 33 37 05, Open 08:00-02:00, Sat 08:00-20:00.
BUDGET QB-4, Str. Mihail Moxa 9, tel. (+4) 021 210
28 67, fax (+4) 021 210 29 95, www.budgetro.ro. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobanti 5 - 7 (Howard Johnson Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 201
50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri

Coanda International Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 16 67,
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),
tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4)
021 352 87 16, office@cars4rent.ro, www.cars4rent.ro.
Open 24 hrs.
COMPACT RENT-A-CAR QA-4, B-dul N. Titulescu
1, bl A7, sc. 1, et. 6, ap. 16, tel. (+4) 0744 58 67 24, (+4)
021 312 98 57, fax (+4) 021 312 99 82, office@compactrentacar.ro, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from
18/day.
EUROPCAR QD-6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021
310 17 97, (+4) 0747 28 06 49, fax (+4) 021 310 17 96,
reservations@europcar.com.ro,
www.europcar.ro.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also at Otopeni Airport tel. (+4)
0374 00 40, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service also available
in Cluj, Constanta, Sibiu, Timisoara, Iasi.
HERTZ QPiata Montreal 10, entrance F, 1st Floor, office
1.20, tel. (+4) 021 407 82 00, www.hertz.ro. Also at Henri
Coanda Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00 - 22:00.
SIXT NEW KOPEL QCalea Bucurestilor 201-203, tel.
(+4) 021 9400, (+4) 0372 37 20 05, reservation@sixt.ro,
www.sixt.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:30.
Bucharest Basics
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the
city code. You will be asked which service you require
(Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/
Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak
English or French but in our experience they do not always do so. At least make sure you know the name of
the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble
with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is a
list on page 77. The citys main police station is at (B-4)
Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best
Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) in the city is at Spitalul de Urgente, (C-3) Calea Floreasca 8, next to Dinamo
Stadium. There is a list of Pharmacies on page 77, and
an English-speaking Dentist on page 75.
CRIME & SAFETY

We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one
of the safest capital cities in Europe. Violent crime is rare and
almost always carried out exclusively between rival gangs
in the citys less-salubrious areas. If you do not go looking
for trouble, the chances of you getting into any are tiny.
While pickpockets are everywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded buses), violent crime is unheard of,
and even women can walk the citys streets alone at night in
relative safety. The Romanian police force is also far better
and less corrupt than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the citys streets, especially in busy areas such as
Old Town at night. The main police station in Bucharest is on
B-dul Lascar Cartagiu (B-4), halfway between Piata Romana
and Piata Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it
is a good idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport
and driving license. Drinking in public (except in designated
areas) leaves you open to a fine, and despite appearances to
the contrary, prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to
speak to your embassy. There is a list on page 77.
In a nutshell though, do not worry. Of all Bucharests
many problems, crime really is one of the least of them.
LEFT LUGGAGE
Gara de Nord offers left luggage facilities, but no lockers. You
will find the left luggage counter opposite the Wasteels office. The charge is 5 lei per small bag per 24 hours, 9 lei for a
bigger bag. You will need ID.
MONEY
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100
bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50,
10, 5 and 1. There are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani coins. 1 is currently worth 4.44 lei. The best place to get your hands on lei
is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside a bank.
Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa) are accepted
almost everywhere. American Express cards are less widely
accepted, but can usually be used in Bancpost ATMs.
April - May 2015
11
Bucharest Basics
STRAY DOGS
POLITICS
In November 2014 the Mayor of Sibiu Klaus Iohannis - an
ethnic German - caused a major surprise by defeating Victor
Ponta in the second round run-off of Romanias presidential
election. The margin of victory - ten per cent - was enormous, despite Ponta being Romanias serving prime minister. Iohannis will now serve a maximum of two five-year
terms as Romanias head of state.
Ponta remains the countrys prime minister and head
of government (which wields most executive power), although the scale of his defeat in the presidential election, as
well as the fact that his party, the PSD, has become a byword
for corruption, make it highly unlikely that he will remain
in office much longer. The next parliamentary elections in
Romania are scheduled for 2016, but most independent political observers expect an early election to be held at some
stage later this year.
TOILETS
There are decent public toilets at Piata Victoriei metro station (free), and at Gara de Nord (for which you have to pay,
1 leu). You will find free portaloos around the city, but these
should be used only by the very desperate. Otherwise, find
the nearest McDonalds and make use of their facilities.
(Note, however, that entrance to some McDonalds toilets in
Bucharest is protected with a four-digit code, which you will
get when you buy something).
Theyve gone. Yep, while you may still spot the odd
stray here and there, the number of strays terrorising
the Romanian capitals streets has been decreasing
fast. As such, its perhaps time to recognise that many
areas of the capital are now dog free. The agency responsible for dealing with stray dogs, ASPA, published
in January a report which would suggest the dog
problem is indeed becoming a thing of the past: it estimates the number of strays in Bucharest to now be
as low as 4,000: thats a huge decrease since the last
major dog census was carried out in 2013, when there
were almost 65,000. This of course begs the question:
Where have all the dogs gone? To be perfectly honest, we dont really care, but according to ASPA around
20,000 have been adopted, 2,000 remain in shelters
and 26,000 have been put down. Whats important of
course is that the dogs are no longer on our streets, and
that things stay that way: dog numbers have fallen in
the past (although never as low as current levels) only
to increase again very quickly. Keeping the streets safe
is an ongoing task. It is also a shame that a small boy
had to die before something got done.

Should you be bitten during your time in Bucharest, present yourself at once to the casualty unit (Camera de Garda) at the Institutul Matei Bals, (D-3) Str. Dr.
Calistrat Grozovici 1, tel. (+4) 021 318 60 90. The wound
will be cleaned up, and you will be administered both
an anti-tetanus and the first of three anti-rabies jabs
(the others must be done seven and then 21 days afterwards). You will also get a prescription for a course of
antibiotics.
SO WHERE AM I?
Situated in that part of the world which will perhaps
always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more
accurate to describe Bucharests geographical location
as south-eastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the
14th century, Bucharest is in a part of Romania known as
Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which
make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia
and Transylvania). The official population of Bucharest is
just under two million, but as many migrants from the
rest of the country do not register as citizens of the capital, the true number is probably closer to three million.
Bucharest is close to the Danube (which is just 69
kilometres to the south), the border between Romania
and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked
by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other
side of the river. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from
Constanta and the Black Sea coast: the journey can be
done in just over two hours. To the north of Bucharest
is Ploiesti, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a
two hour drive away from the capital.
Bucharest Basics
A BRIEF HISTORY OF BUCHAREST

Bucharest is a relatively new city: mention of it is not made
until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the Impaler),
ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city are therefore
unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd, Bucur, founded
the city, but a more likely candidate is Radu Voda (also
known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wallachia from c. 12901300.
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any real
size, when it became the preferred site of the Wallachian
court. This was based in what is today known as the Old
Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was sacked for
the first time in 1476 by the Moldavian ruler Stephen the
Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the Turks in 1554.
During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks in 1594,
Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting. It was
not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei Basarab in
the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and the princely
court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the Transylvanians)
Bucharest suffered plague and famine for much of the rest
of the 1600s.
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Constantin
Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucharests fortunes.
Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with the Hapsburgs and
Russians - keeping the Turks at bay - while overseeing a
cultural renaissance at home. The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714: ordered to Constantinople to
account for himself he was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III.
No longer trusting local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek administrators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots (they came from the Greek district of Constantinople,
Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821. During
this time the city grew in size and importance, despite regular disasters: there were major earthquakes in 1802, 1804
and 1812, while plague returned in 1813-14, during which
as many as 40,000 people died.
While still nominally a Turkish province, the Peace of Adrianople which ended the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-9 left
Wallachia (and Bucharest with it) under Russian occupation. Fortunately, the general the Russians appointed to
govern Bucharest, Pavel Kiseleff, was an enlightened man
who during his 14 years in charge of the city (1829-1843)
oversaw sweeping changes.
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada
Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given that
the Moldavian parliament had elected the same man to
be their leader a few days before, the vote at the Concordia
in effect created the first state of Romania. Bucharest grew
- and flourished - during the reign of Carol I (1866-1914),
Romanias first king. Electricity was introduced in 1882, and
the city hosted a grand exhibition, Romania in the World,
in 1906. The Carol Park in southern Bucharest was built to
host the fair.
During the 1920s and 1930s Bucharest was one of Europes
most dynamic, and architecturally avant-garde cities. Large
numbers of art deco buildings were constructed around
the city. Bucharest was heavily bombed during the latter
part of World War II, but in comparison with much of Europe, the city was relatively unscathed. The communist authorities installed by the Soviet Union at the end of the war
therefore initially made their mark not by rebuilding the city
but by greatly extending it. The population doubled from
900,000 at the end of World War II to 1.8 million in 1980.
In 1977 the biggest earthquake in the citys history killed
more than 1,500 people. Many buildings were destroyed
or damaged beyond repair, and Romanias leader Nicolae
Ceausescu took the opportunity to remodel the city in his
own vision. By 1989 almost a fifth of Bucharest had been
destroyed to make way for the new Centru Civic. Bucharest
was the scene of the heaviest fighting during the Romanian Revolution of 1989, most of which centred on Piata
Revolutiei, Piata Universitatii, the TVR building and Otopeni
Airport. Since the revolution Bucharest has continued to
grow, although much of that growth has been outside the
city limits. The population of the city proper in fact peaked
in 2000, at 2.3 million: it is officially now down to 1.9 million
(2011 census).
Bucharest Basics
BUCHAREST WITH CHILDREN
Visiting the Romanian capital with kids? The outdoor
Village Museum (p. 42) is as good a place as any to start:
its many houses, windmills and wooden churches will
fascinate young minds, while there are usually activities
at weekends for children. The excellent confectionery stall
at the entrance, selling home-made sweets, cakes and
such like, will also be a hit. Of the citys other museums,
the Peasant (p. 42), Grigore Antipa Natural History (p. 41)
and Technical (p. 48) are probably the most suited to children, particularly older kids. You can get to them all riding
around on the top deck of a Bucharest City Tour sightseeing bus. See page 44.
Bucharest is blessed with a number of good parks,
and all of them have lots to offer. There are playgrounds
in all of them, pleasure boat rides on the lake in Herastrau, rowing boats in both Herastrau and Cismigiu.
See page 49. Perhaps the park most suited to children
however is Tineretului in the south of the city (take the
metro to Tineretului). It has loads of very good and big
playgrounds, and you can hire bikes at the main entrance. On the far side of the park (take the metro to
Constantin Brancoveanu) is Oraselul Copiilor (Childrens
City) - a large funfair whose attractions include a big
wheel and some very scary rides strictly for the brave.
You can hire bikes at one of three IVelo rental centres
located at the entrance to Herastrau and Tineretului
parks. Bikes cost 4 lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day.
The under 16s and over 65s can hire bikes for free (but
for a maximum of two hours). You will need ID.
There are also a couple of adventure parks within
reach of Bucharest. The one we recommend is Edenland (edenland.ro) in Balotesti, north of the city. You
will need your own transport to get there (a taxi will be
happy to take you, but it might be tricky finding one to
bring you back). Edenland offers a range of adventure
trails for kids (and adults, for that matter) of all ages, as
well as paintball, archery and other outdoor activities.
Bucharests best water park - open from the end of
May - is Divertiland (divertiland.ro) on the western edge
of the city: bus No. 237 from Piata Operei stops right outside the entrance. For kids who just want to swim there
are pools open to the public at most of the five-star hotels. See pages 68-69.
The Romanian National Opera (p. 35) puts on childrens matinees most weekend mornings at 11:00.
Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly,
even if the amount of smoke in some of them means
that you will probably not want to enter with your kids.
Those deserving a special mention include the big
hotels, all of which have kids entertainers during their
brunches, and the Hard Rock Cafe (p. 16): always happy
to see kids and packed with them at weekends.
You can find our full Childrens Bucharest listings online at:
beta.inyourpocket.com/bucharest/features
April - May 2015
15
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning
N Credit cards not accepted
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking E Live music

G No smoking
B Outside seating
S Take away
W Wifi
ROMANIAN
CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an
integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place
pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charming, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. The location is worthy of the food, on posh Soseaua Kiseleff in a
quiet, leafy setting. The splendid terrace is a joy when the
weather allows.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67
17/(+4) 0745 00 90 09, www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 01:00. . PLEBSW
CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE We brought our
mother-in-law here recently to try out the sarmale, and
after careful consideration she admitted that they were
even better than her own: now thats high praise indeed.
In a top location in the InterContinental, overlooking Bulevardul Magheru, if this place doesnt occupy the very best
people-watching spot in the whole of the city, then we
dont know where does. Open for breakfast, lunch (usually
an excellent value buffet) and dinner, it is seriously good.
Oh, and then there is the Sunday Brunch which we think is
currently just about the best in the city.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00,
Sat 06:30 - 11:30, 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 11:00. 12:00
- 23:00. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 195 lei/pers, children under six free, children between six and 12 half
price. . PTLEGBW
the property of Elena Lupescu, mistress of King Carol II.

Huge, set over two levels, the house is surrounded by a
large courtyard and garden, which is superb in the right
weather.QD-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 51, tel. (+4)
0725 00 80 05, www.citygrill.ro/home-hanu-berarilor.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PSW
HANU BERARILOR CASA SOARE
Housed in the former Casa Bucur (a place you could write a
book about) it is a very good Romanian restaurant serving
the kind of food you only usually get in peoples homes.
Seriously: only in two or three other places in Bucharest
will you find carnati de oaie (mutton sausages) or bors
de peste. If you are feeling really hungry go for the platou
mioritic: a huge plate of meaty treats.QB-6, Str. Poenaru
Bordea 2, tel. (+4) 021 336 80 09/(+4) 0729 40 08 00,
www.hanuberarilor.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. . PEBSW
LA COCOSATU We put out an appeal on our Facebook
fan page for the best mici in the city. The response was
immediate and overwhelming: Cocosatu uber alles. A bit
of a trek from the city centre (it is just around the corner
from the now closed Baneasa Airport) the mici here are
indeed the best we have tasted: big, tangy, made with
loads of mutton and a few spices for extra kick. The ultimate Bucharest mici experience, and all at peanuts prices.
QStr. Neagoe Voda 52 A, tel. (+4) 021 232 87 96, www.
lacocosatu.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
LOCANTA JARISTEA This is that rarity in Bucharest
(and indeed Romania): an upmarket Romanian restaurant.
The surroundings, location, exquisitely decorated dining
rooms, service and choice of high quality food will convince you of that. This is one of very few places in Romania where you can enjoy an entire suckling pig (though
note that you will need to phone ahead and ask them to
start preparing it a day in advance) and sample some of
the best vintage wines Romania has ever produced.QB-6,
Str. George Georgescu 50-52, tel. (+4) 021 335 33 38/
(+4) 0721 96 19 36, www.jaristea.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
. PLESW
GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HOTEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very good
range of Romanian and international dishes, the menu here
changes regularly, usually in time with the seasons. The
young chef is not afraid to try something new and different
and note that if you fancy something which is not on the
menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine list. Note the
last kitchen order is at 22:30.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.
ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLGSW
ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder

than most to take Romanian cuisine to new levels. As such,
this is as upmarket as Romanian food can get, and the
beef dishes here are especially good. Try the sote de vacuta
aromat cu cognac: tender beef sauteed in cognac with
mushrooms and tomatoes. Also worth trying is the iahnie
de fasole: a Romanian bean stew that packs something of
a kick and proof that Romanian does do vegetarian food.
QC-5, Str. Dimitrie Bolintineanu 9, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 805 91 99/(+4) 0748 22 02 20, www.rossetya.
ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. . PSW
HANU BERARILOR CASA ELENA LUPESCU

Offering much the same (such as great pork knuckle) as
the Hanul Berarilor closer to the city centre this place (run
by the same people) is located in a house that was once
VATRA RESTAURANT We have been eating here for

years and we cant recommend the place highly enough.
You really will have go a long way to find better value Romanian food than this. A brilliant, well-priced restaurant
Restaurants
close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect

big portions of tasty local dishes. Great ciorbas, terrific mici
and a decent pint of beer to wash it all down with.QB-5,
Str. Ion Brezoianu 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315
83 75/(+4) 0721 20 08 00, www.vatra.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. . PLSW
AMERICAN & BURGERS

BUFFALO BAZ Seriously good burgers of a size just
about unsurpassed anywhere else in the city. Not the biggest place in the world you might have to wait for a seat at
busy times, but wait you should: the quality of the burgers
is outstanding and while far from cheap, for what you get
you are paying relatively little. Good choice of side dishes
too (the fries are way above average) and the noodles are
well worth trying. For dessert, the cheesecake awaits (if
they have any left: it goes fast). Oh, and bring the kids:
they will love the place.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 47, tel. (+4)
0736 36 83 35. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. . PLSW
CHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in
Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from
an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by anyone weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact,
now we think of it, the portions of everything here are
enormous: even the childrens servings are very healthy
indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection
of American pub food, as well as Tex Mex treats and even
some more refined, slow food options. Famously good

cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you
could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott: up the stairs as
you go in and to your right.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie
90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021
403 19 17, www.championsrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 24:00. . PTLSW
HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Europe, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you
visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well
looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the
crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a
cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as
they should be, and the service comes from smiley waitresses and expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock.QA-2, Sos.
Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/
bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PTLESW
NEW
VIVO Burgers - big, tasty ones - and much more besides.
We tried the Game of Dijons burger, a right monster packed
with all sorts of treats, from parmesan and cheddar to
truffle oil and a seriously good mustard sauce. You will do
well to finish it. There are also fine ribs, chunky soups and
even salads. Desserts as immense as everything else, and
the only disappointment were the fries: not the best in the
city. Worth going though, for the burgers alone, if you can
Restaurants
get a table: this place is popular.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 60,
tel. (+4) 021 233 96 88, www.vivofoodbar.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
BRITISH
THE TRAFALGAR PUB Popular with all sorts of expats who have a regular rendezvous here, this place is a
pub and bistro in one, where you can get a decent meal
for little money while enjoying usually decent company.
The menu has a few British dishes - we can recommend
both the beef and chicken pies - but best of all we like
the ciorba de vacuta - one of the best in the city. There
is both Guinness and Kilkenny on draught: both at a decent price. You really cant go wrong. Get there now.QC-4,
Str. David Emmanuel 4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.
trafalgarpub.eu. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. . PLVESW
FOOD & DRINK

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in which
you could just as easily sit down and have a three course
meal as you could spend a night on the beer or cocktails.
18 LOUNGE Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place
to come people. On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office
buildings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent
food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a
restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening
it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a
self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a little
trendy but never kitsch. We like it.QA-1, P-ta Presei Libere
3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:30. . PLW
EMBASSY
Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Embassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been
around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is
a sign of how good it is. Serving a good gourmet burger
and much else besides (including some great cocktails)
it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening
wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late.
We usually do.QC-4, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-club.ro. Open
11:00 - 03:00. . PSW
THE HARBOUR A top location, in Piata Amzei, with
food to match, as well as friendly and efficient staff. The
atmosphere is relaxing, the food better than average,
though the real joy of this place is its view to the market.
We came here for lunch recently and were stunned by
how many foreigners were eating here: it must be one of
the most popular tourist and visitor spots in town.QB-4,
P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72
57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86, www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. . PLVSW
April - May 2015
19
Restaurants
vegans to choose from. Opens for breakfast - start your
day with the Dementa omelette, made with mushrooms
and mint - while the inventive pizzas (all a bit different and
more creative than you find elsewhere) are amongst the
best in the city. A tasty selection of soups, salads and seafood round off a highly impressive selection of well-priced
treats.QB-3, Str. Paris 17, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0740
12 34 55, www.musebistro.ro. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri
09:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. .
PVSW
GERMAN
FRENCH
ICI ET LA As regular readers will know we are suckers for
an open kitchen, and that is what we have here: sit and
watch the chef and owner prepare your gorgeous homemade French meal. They are rather proud of their smoked
salmon here (and rightly so) and the wine list features
plenty of affordable grape. Top it all off with the magnificent creme brulee.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 43, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 0731 45 36 08/(+4) 0731 35 26 08,
www.icietla.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
PVEBSW
LATELIER LART CULINAIRE This is a restaurant
where art means putting together original dishes of the
highest order, all prepared by the amazing head chef.
American Black Angus beef cooked in a Cabernet sauce and
served with potato and black truffle puree: you will not find
such things on too many menus in Bucharest. For those of
you who like your desserts, the lemon cake with caremelized meringue and homemade ice cream is a dream come
true. Find it in the Hotel Epoque: it is as fine and elegant as
the hotel itself.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C (Epoque
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.latelier-restaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 23:00. . PLBSW
FUSION
LOFT LOUNGE The truth is the food here is amongst
the best in the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in
the country. Its not just us who say so either. Ask anybody
in the city who knows their food and you get the same
reply: its brilliant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood
dominates), cooked to perfection. The squid served with
risotto, for example: it sounds so simple yet its a taste sensation. Not cheap of course, but worth the cost.QC-4, Bdul Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, MStefan cel Mare, tel.
(+4) 0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.ro. Open 12:00 16:00, 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. . PLESW
BERARIA SIEGFRIED
Pork knuckles, plates of sausages and schnitzels the size
of plates: thats what you are getting at Siegfried. Impressively, they bring the ciolan (knuckle) to your table to
weigh it so you know exactly how big a challenge you
are setting yourself: trust us, they are huge and only the
very hungriest of diners will finish one. The house beer
is excellent and comes in a choice of pils, white or unfiltered varieties, and is even available by the metre.QB-6,
Str. Lipscani 29, MIzvor, tel. (+4) 0756 01 40 41, www.
berariasiegfried.ro. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. . PSW
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE
This place has remained more or less unchanged in 18
years (it opened in 1996), and thats just the way that we
and all the other happy regulars like it. Serving giant portions of great German sausages (all made on the premises)
as well as huge pork knuckles, seriously good kraut and a
Hunter Schnitzel the size of the Bismarck it also has a couple
of cracking German beers on draught. Service comes with
a smile from the family team who own and run the place,
and you will usually need a reservation at weekends. Once
the weather warms up, head for the beer garden, which
comes complete with one of those German beer flagpole
things. Brilliant.QC-3, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233
94 62/(+4) 0722 28 45 60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro.
Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
PNSW
MUSE BISTRO
While not a vegetarian restaurant per se (they serve seafood, fish and use eggs) there is no meat on the menu here,
and there is plenty on the menu for both vegetarians and
Restaurants
INDIAN
KARISHMA A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where
the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare
treat in these parts where the raw material is so hard to
find. There is much more besides of course, including an
extensive range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice
tolerance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know
their stuff.QD-5, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021
252 51 57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. .
PVSW
INTERNATIONAL
BISTRO MON CHER One of those places that merits
praise simply for having been around for so long. Weve
been coming here for years, and have always loved the
welcoming atmosphere and simple, tasty bistro food.
There is something for everyone, from sandwiches for the
lunchtime crowd to good coffee and even hot chocolate
for the kids. Leafy terrace in summer.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 20-28, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 211 46
98/(+4) 0731 27 38 20, www.bistromoncheri.ro. Open
08:00 - 06:00. . PVSW
CHEZ MARIE Popular with the crowd from the UK
embassy, including the ambassador himself, Chez Marie
serves perhaps the widest variety of dishes you are likely
to find in a Bucharest restaurant. Both the steak with gorgonzola and the beef stroganoff are top efforts, while we
have long thought that the goulash is one of Bucharests
very best. Good drinks list and the place itself is rather nice.
QC-4, Str. Dionisie Lupu 48, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
031 107 20 33/(+4) 0730 34 48 10, www.chezmarie.ro.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
GARGANTUA Bright and airy place that gloriously lets
the light in through its huge windows. Fine food, including a luscious fried brie with onion marmelade, an outstanding chicken and artichoke salad, a couple of duck
dishes and good steaks. Prices are more than fair given
the location, setting and quality of food. Find it on the
corner of Stradas Calderon and Verona.QC-5, Str. J.L.
Calderon 69, tel. (+4) 0726 55 56 93/(+4) 0722 70 25 60,
www.restaurantgargantua.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00. .
PVBSW
LA BRASSERIE Redesigned and reinvented, La Brasserie is now less about fine dining (pop over to The Vineyard
for that) and more about good quality, simple food for all
the family. The menu is available buffet-style or a-la-carte,
and makes a great choice for families or groups on the run.
The wine list remains a work of art and the atmosphere is
now cosier than ever.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne
Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.laveranda.ro. Open
06:00 - 24:00. Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:30, 177 lei/pers,
children between six and 12 years half price, children
under six free. . PEGSW
April - May 2015
21
Restaurants
ROMANIAN FOOD
Romanian food, rich in Turkish, Hungarian and German
influences, is rather good. An example of top Romanian
fare is the classic sour soup, ciorba. Made of bor (a sour,
honey-coloured liquid made of wheat and cornflour),
the tradition of making sour soups is Ukrainian, but was
perfected in Moldavia and later Muntenia. In theory
anything can go into a ciorba, though the most popular are ciorba de legume (made with vegetables), ciorba
de vacuta (made with beef), ciorba de burta (made with
tripe) and ciorba de perioare (made with pork meatballs).
While you will often see ciorba de pui (ciorba made with
chicken), chicken is more popular in clear soups, served
with dumplings (galute), carrots and parsnips.
At more formal meals a number of cold appetizers
known as gustare reci will usually be served before the
ciorba. These include cheese, olives, spring onions, salami,
tomatoes and boiled eggs. Sometimes there may also be a
platter of warm appetizers (gustare calde), such as carnai de
plecoi (mutton sausages), ficaei de pui (chicken livers), ciuperci umplute (stuffed mushrooms), or mici. These are spicy
little sausage-shaped meatballs made of mutton, beef and
pork. They are delicious.
While main courses can sometimes be a disappointment,
there are always some superb options in good restaurants,
such as the celebrated sarmale (cabbage or vine leaves
stuffed with mince and rice), or tocania (thick stew, usually pork). If you see ciolan afumat on a menu, it is worth
trying: smoked pork knuckle served with beans. Romanian
pork in general is superb. Mamaliga is a Romanian version
of polenta made of cornmeal, whose stodginess has long
been compared to the Romanian temperament.
Though Romania boasts a not insignificant coastline along
the Black Sea, the standard of its seafood can be poor. There
is, however, an increasingly large number of specialist seafood restaurants in Bucharest, although much of the fish
they serve will be imported and priced accordingly. Look
out too for hamsii: tasty, deep fried anchovies.
Sweets in Romania are sweet indeed. Pancakes (clatite)
served with chocolate or jam and covered in sugar are a
popular dessert, as are papanai: deep fried doughnuts
filled with jam, or sometimes cottage cheese. Look out
too for Romanian cakes (prjituri), usually made with
lashings of fresh cream.
Finally, a note about some culinary habits you may come
across in the countrys restaurants. Fries, for example, often
come covered with grated cheese. When ordering you can
avoid this by stating fara branza pe cartofi prajii. There is
also a local habit of throwing sour cream (smntana) on
everything, especially in ciorbe and soups. A simple fara
smntana, v rog will suffice. Most bizarre however is the
local tendency to cover perfectly good pizza with ketchup.
LA VERANDA
The feather in the Crowne Plazas cap, this is now the
hotels flagship restaurant, a work of great detail where
everything is lovingly prepared by exec chef Ashlie Dias who has been here for years - and his highly experienced
team. Based around Mediterranean cuisine you can always expect to find something exotic and a bit different
on the daring menu. An indulgent treat, and the brunch
is fabulous, while on Tuesday evenings at 6pm theres a
very good value Asian buffet for 115 lei.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza), tel. (+4) 021 224 00 34, www.
laveranda.ro. Open 06:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 11:30, 12:30 - 16:30, 18:00 - 23:00.
Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:30, 185 lei per person, children
92.50 lei. . PLEW
SALON GOLESCU
Gorgeous little place close to the Hilton which will have
you cooing with delight the moment you walk in. Sit
yourself at one of the tables, the bar, or a leather armchair
and order from a rather eclectic menu of very good food.
There are good tapas, while we thought the best of the
main dishes were the super Thai fishcakes. There is a good
cocktail list, loads of excellent whisky and the wine list is
exceptional if rather expensive.QC-4, Str. Nicolae Golescu 17, tel. (+4) 031 436 03 38, www.salongolescu.ro.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
. PESW
UPTOWN BAR & GRILL
Uptown indeed. In the wealthiest part of the wealthiest
part of the city, the citys wealthiest people come here to
eat. The real draw is the enclosed terrace which means
you can eat al fresco even when its raining outside. The
food is good, a mix of Italian-esque and modern European
dishes, which share a menu with an excellent wine list.
Prices not cheap but value for money very high. Make sure
you reserve well in advance or turn up with a local celebrity if you want a table on the terrace.QB-3, Str. Rabat 2,
tel. (+4) 021 231 40 77, www.uptown.ro. Open 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. . PLBSW
ITALIAN
ALT SHIFT
When you walk in you immediately see why this place is
the current choice of many designers and arty types: the
interior is as contemporary as it gets, the high ceilings giving the place the feel of a New York loft. The food is much
like the place itself: contemporary with a traditional twist,
and with plenty for vegetarians to enjoy. Found above
what is quite possibly our favourite Bucharest club, Control,
the place stays open - with a slightly limited menu - into
the early hours at weekends for those hungry clubbers
looking for pre or post-party snacks.QC-5, Str. Constantin
Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 98 02 25, www.
altshift.ro. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
. PW
Restaurants
CAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/

bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban food. Try
the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the tiramisu:
all signature dishes and all done to perfection. The drinks
menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as delicious
as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all available
by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly made
ice cream.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel.
(+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, www.caffe-citta.
ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. . PLGBW
CUCINA Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is

a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find probably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the
city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memorable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the
premises No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the
wine menu.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.
cucinarestaurant.ro. Open 12:30 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00,
Sun 18:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
CAPRICCIOSA A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria

whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They even do
truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those every day on a
menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the journey uptown
for both the food and the atmosphere, which demonstrates
that top restaurants dont have to be flash.QB-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021 233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22
47 99 (+) 0723 26 90 30, www.restaurantcapricciosa.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other

so-called Italian restaurants in Bucharest can only dream
of becoming. Serving simple yet delicious food - such
as the saffron risotto - that will have you telling all your
friends to come here, you can also buy many of the special
ingredients they use in their little shop. Oh, and did we
mention the chocolate cake?QC-3, Str. Putul lui Zamfir
40, tel. (+4) 0731 14 81 87/(+4) 021 231 23 86, www.
grano.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PSW
CASA DI DAVID You can say what you like about this
legendary, high-class place, but to us it remains a very nice
place to spend the evening. The food is ristorante Italian
with a twist (the duck breast with citrus fruits is our pick of
the current menu) and outstandingly good, with enough
fish dishes to make it appealing to sea food lovers. Staff
are good and the wine list a cracker.QB-1, Sos. Nordului
7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15/(+4) 0722 26 93 60, www.
casadidavid.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:30. . PLSW
MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good Italian restaurant which simply knocks our socks off every
time we come. Boasting a new chef, Cristian Marino, in
the kitchen this winter, there is a new menu too and the
place is quite simply better than ever: the InterContinental
is one of very few hotels in Bucharest which really does go
the extra mile to make sure that us diners are kept happy.
All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand lamb, the giant
April - May 2015
23
Restaurants
LUNCH & EARLY EVENING
BE NAT
Light and spacious diner overlooking Piata Victoriei
serving excellent value hot lunches, salads, tea, coffee and cakes. Look out for the daily specials, while - if
they have it - the gazpacho is as good as any in the
city. Sit upstairs for the best views of the street below.
QA-4, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 4-8, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 031 437 96 03/(+4) 031 437 96 01, www.
benat.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
PVGSW
prawns come from Indonesia and the wine is a selection
of the best the world has to offer. There is usually a pianist
too. We love the place.QC-5, Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06, www.
restaurantmodigliani.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. . PLBW
ROBERTOS A fabulous place. Boasting an open kitchen,
three distinct dining areas and a private dining room, Robertos also has a fantastic chef: Marco Magri. The food is
classical, with the menu boasting the best dishes from a
number of Italian regions. Its not cheap, but prices reflect
the high quality, and note that the lunchtime set menu is
in fact very competitively priced. In a nutshell, its worth
every penny: this is one of the top five restaurants in the
land, and the new Sunday Brunch complete with lobster
Thermidor and New Zealand lamb is top notch.QC-5, Str.
Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303
37 77, fax (+4) 021 315 21 21. Open 06:30 - 10:00, 12:00
- 23:00. Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00, 185 lei per person,
children (over six) 92 lei. . PTGSW
TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE
They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is
a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. There is pizza
too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is decked
out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a look. Note
that downstairs is a totally non-smoking section. Commendable.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0735 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
BOUTIQUE DU PAIN
Everything you want from a city-centre eatery and a
lot more. This is in fact more bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and evening meals in fresh, bright
surroundings. The selection of morning pastries is the
best in the city, with office workers going out of their
way to stop here for fresh supplies. For lunch there is a
range of sandwiches hard to beat anywhere else, and
the small selection of hot meals of an evening - the
menu changes daily - are perfect for a casual dinner.
Serving great coffee and a magnificent hot chocolate,
we (and our kids!) love this place.QC-5, Str. Academiei 28-30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33
00, www.boutiquedupain.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00,
Sun 8:30 - 20:00. . PSW
OMNIVORES DILEMMA
Tiny place serving perhaps the best cooked lunch in
central Bucharest. There are just a few dishes to choose
from each day: ask the staff whats good, hand over a
pittance and try and bag a seat at one of the tables
(there are only three or four). You can take away if there
is no space. The kind of place Bucharest needs loads
more of.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 214, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 212 56 66, www.omnivores.ro. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . PVGSW
JAPANESE
EDO SUSHI In the courtyard of a splendid 1930s Calea
Victoriei building is this excellent sushi restaurant which is
as good as any to open in Bucharest, ever. A full range of
sushi (maki, gunkan, nigiri and tamaki) is on offer, as well
as lots of sashimi, some very tasty (and spicy) soups and
even salad. And all at prices which are far below a couple
of other sushi places in town we could mention. Indeed,
the set menus - including the 29 lei lunch - are bargains.
The also do home delivery and take-away.QB-5, Calea
Restaurants
Victoriei 122, tel. (+4) 0735 11 10 01/(+4) 0767 51 61

61, comanda@edo-sushi.ro, www.edo-sushi.ro. Open
13:00 - 23:30. . PVGSW
YOSHI Sushi and teppanyaki - and more besides - at the
best Japanese restaurant to open in Bucharest for some
time. Located in upmarket Dorobanti it is not cheap (good
Japanese food rarely is) but it is very good and the setmenu at lunchtime is excellent value. The place itself is
spacious and very contemporary, and the perfect setting
for a meal of this quality.QC-3, Str. Banul Antonache 4044, tel. (+4) 0749 97 95 21, www.restaurantyoshi.ro.
Open 12:00 - 00:00. . PVSW
ZEN SUSHI Sushi - and then some. Indeed, given our
love of all things soup and spicy, we couldnt resist trying
the spicy chicken soup, which was the prefect compliment
to the excellent and relatively well-priced sushi. There is
a full teppanyaki menu too, and unlike certain other
Japanese restaurants in Bucharest we could mention the
food at this elegant place does not cost a fortune.QC-3,
Str. George Calinescu 15, tel. (+4) 0722 16 17 18/(+4)
0735 93 69 36, www.zensushibucuresti.ro. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. Also at (B-4) Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 56, tel. (+4) 0752 02 25 94, (+4) 0721 75 54 55,
(C-7) Str. Calea Serban Voda 86, tel. (+4) 0722 96 16 43,
(+4) 0767 23 20 94. . PAVSW
KOREAN
RESTAURANT SEOUL It has been a long, long time
since Bucharest had a Korean restaurant worth the name,
so it was with a heightened sense of anticipation that we
headed off to Seoul. We were not disappointed. Everything
on the menu is the real deal, from the spicy kimchi soups
- made with all the right ingredients, shipped in especially
- to the chicken, pork, beef and sea food dishes of which,
for us, the Ojing-uh pokum stood out as genuinely superb.
They even have a range of Korean drinks, including Hite
beer. Worth a visit.QA-2, Str. Aviator Mircea Zorileanu
89, tel. (+4) 021 667 21 19/(+4) 0725 49 83 66, www.
restaurantkorean.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:30, Sun 12:30 22.30. . PLXSW
LEBANESE
CHEZ TONI Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, awayfrom-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club.
All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki,
Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little
sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a
ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resident Lebanese chef.QC-2, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021 242
02 04/(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . PLBSW
ZAITOONE What have lovers of Lebanese food done to
deserve so much quality choice? Here is another winner, a
spacious, elegant place and the food more than lives up
to the surroundings. There are loads of goods mezze, and
the grilled meats and kebabs are exemplary. For dessert,
the katayef are delicious: they even do a small portion if
you cant handle the full one! Oh, and note that they accept Amex cards (not many places in Bucharest do). Lovely
lakeside terrace which can be enclosed and is open in all
weathers.QB-1, Str. Nicolae Caramfil 2, tel. (+4) 0737 29
99 00/(+4) 037 620 37 41, www.zaitoone.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . PLSW
MEDIEVAL
CRAMA TEMPLIERILOR A medieval extravanganza
of a restaurant where you can sit at wooden tables - including a round one, just like King Arthur - and tuck into
massive portions of all your medieval favourites, from pork
knuckles to sausages and juicy steaks. There is live music
most nights from a top taraf band, and its very difficult
not to have a good time here. Groups especially will love it,
and your kids will too.QB-5, B-dul Mihail Kogalniceanu
3, tel. (+4) 021 311 63 60, www.cramatemplierilor.ro.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. . PVESW
MEDITERRANEAN
GOCCIA A contemporary restaurant, very much an eatery in two parts. The first is more formal (although never
stuffy): smart dining tables, bookcases and the like, the
other a rather come-as-you-are area of soft seating, scatter
April - May 2015
25
Restaurants
cushions and simple tables. It is the food you want to hear
about though: inventive Mediterranean cuisine with the
right mix of meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Larger
groups will love this place as everyone will find something
they like on the menu. The biggest surprise is the cost of
eating here: not as expensive as you might think.QC-4,
Str. George Enescu 23, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0785
23 89 10, www.goccia.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
JOSEPH BY JOSEPH HADAD Looking for gems such
as a homemade ravioli with fillet of sea bass? Then get
yourself here. This is an outstanding place in every way:
not only is the food sensational - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is more than a hint of France too - but
the villa in which it is served is also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief, this is as good as modern, contemporary dining gets in this city and a visit here is worth every
penny (speaking of which, the set two-course lunch is a
bargain).QB-2, Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0753 99 93 33, www.josephrestaurant.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
SHARKIA
Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the eponymous wind
and brings with it some top class dining at the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what we have here is a
dining room where the focus is on Eastern Mediterranean
food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and supremely
healthy eating. You can feast on a great range of dishes
from across the region, there are some fine wines and its
all done with that magical Radisson swish.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PLG
TAPO
Something different, and well worth the taxi ride from
the city centre, this is a late-night, clubby restaurant for
the citys most happening people, where you come to eat
and end up staying for something of a party well into the
early hours (it is in the same complex as Barletto). As such,
the place could probably serve up a load of old tosh and
still be popular: fortunately, with Florin Dumitrescu in the
kitchen (one of Romanias best-known chefs) you can rest
assured the amazing food - and the rather special wine list
- warrants a visit all on its own.QD-2, Str. Oltetului 30, tel.
(+4) 0747 08 30 83, www.tapo.ro. Open 11:00 - 04:00.
. PLBW
MEXICAN/TEX MEX
EL TORITO
Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty but free of frills. Expect the biggest and best burrittos in the city, topped with
lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer
than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid
Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being
dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth trying too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough
to serve as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions
SUNDAY BRUNCH
Sunday Brunch at one of the big five-star hotels in Bucharest is an institution not to be missed by any visitor. All trying to out do each other, all of the hotels go
to great lengths to ensure that their brunch is the best.
Besides an amazing selection of food the hotels also offer complimentary sparkling wine and lay on jazz bands
and childrens entertainers. As such, you really cant go
wrong: just pick one of the big hotels (Crowne Plaza - at
La Brasserie, Hilton - at Robertos, InterContinental - at
Corso, JW Marriott - at JW Steakhouse, Novotel - at Teatro or Radisson Blu - at Dacia Felix) and reserve a table
for next Sunday. All brunches start at around 12:00, and
run until 16:00 or 16:30 and offer as much as you can eat
for one price (around 40).
here are supersized. Though you would be a fool to forego
a nosh here, if you just fancy a drink at the bar nobody
seems to mind. Let the margaritas and the mojitos flow.
QC-4, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021 252 66 88/
(+4) 0728 17 60 59, www.eltorito.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PVESW
MODERN EUROPEAN
CAFE ATHENEE
We love it. This is Bucharests village pub, where the city
comes to meet and have a terrific breakfast, lunch or early
dinner. The new breakfast menu offers something for everyone, from a full English to nasi goreng, while the legendary Hilton burger remains one of the best in the city.
There is also a bites menu of substantial finger food for
executive snacking, and a bigger, wider range of beers,
wines and cocktails then ever, which is why it is now as
popular as an after-work venue as it is at lunchtime.QC5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Open 08:0020:00. . PESW
PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD
Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd
Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since
Prime opened more than six years ago, what is perhaps Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serving
the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford Prime which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amazing), we
can also recommend the duet of foie gras with raspberry
mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled scallops
and the lobster bisque. And just about everything else. Its
genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last penny.
QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021
311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02, www.prime-restaurant.
ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00.
Closed Sun. . PLG
Restaurants
MOLDOVAN
LA PLACINTE
Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there are more than
10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre
of Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of
traditional and hip you will love it the moment you walk
in. The food is good, and as the name suggests (placinte
means pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potatoe
pie, cheese pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. They are
all good, made fresh (so you might have to wait a bit) and
come served piping hot. There is much else besides, including the entirely recommended pelmeni, and the Moldovan version of mici.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 20, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 80 21/(+4) 0755 05 56 22, www.
laplacinte.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Also at (C-4) Sos. Stefan Cel Mare 38, (C-4) B-dul Gheorghe Magheru 26, Str.
Nicolae Caranfil 49. . PSW
PERUVIAN
PERU BISTRO
Fed up with hearing about new dining concepts in Bucharest which turn out to be nothing of the sort? Well, here is
something genuinely new and different: Peruvian cuisine.
A fusion of South American and Asian you will find superb
beef and pork steaks on the menu alongside some good
fish. We were blown away by the beef served in a slightly
spicy orange sauce (lomo salsa aji) while the Leche assado
is the perfect desert. The place itself is very nice: a large
villa in the leafy north of the city. with a huge, gorgeous
terrace at the rear in the right weather.QA-2, Str. Aviator
Petre Creu 63, tel. (+4) 0744 62 42 97, www.perubistro.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLVBSW
SEAFOOD
CHERHANAUA ANCORA
Cherhana in Romanian means fishery, so you will already
know what to expect here: fine fish and seafood. The
interior is rather special: bright and contemporary, with
more than a hint of local flavour. In a city now boasting
more than a few seriously good interiors, this is up with
the best of them. The food is very good too, from simple
yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and

pike) to more exotic fish shipped in direct from the Mediterranean and beyond: sea bass, prawns, fresh tuna and
much more. We should add that there are some fine meat
choices for those who are not fish fans. Desserts as good
as everything else. Prices high.QB-1, Sos. Nordului 7-9,
tel. (+4) 0721 33 55 55/(+4) 0724 33 22 33, www.ancoracherhana.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLSW
FISHBONE Another fish restaurant more than worth the
name adds itself to the growing list of such establishments
in Bucharest. Well prepared, fresh fish in bright, modern
surroundings with a great selection of side dishes and
plenty of cracking wine to wash it all down with. Good
lunchtime deals and friendly, happy staff ready to make
your time here memorable.QC-4, Str. Gen. Ernest Brosteanu 2, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0721 98 28 48, www.
fishbonegrill.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PESW
MESOGIOS A businessmans dream. While Mesogios
certainly doesnt get any cheaper, the high standards here
have ensured that it remains packed with happy punters.
Getting on for a decade since it opened its dedication to
seafood has not waned for one moment, and we never
leave disappointed (and we come here as often as our
wallet allows). Join us and enjoy squid, lobster, prawns
of all sizes, mussels, oysters, giant sea bass and a host of
other wet treats.QC-5, Str. J.L. Calderon 49, tel. (+4) 021
313 49 51, (+4) 0727 23 92 39/(+4) 021 317 13 55, www.
mesogios.ro. Open 12:30 - 24:00. . PSW
RAIONUL DE PESTE Inside Piata Dorobanti (Dorobanti
Market) you will find Raionul de Peste, which translates as
Fish Counter. And thats exactly what this place is: a fish
counter serving fresh fish which someone will cook for you
on the spot. You can then sit and eat it at the bar. Its a brilliant, simple concept widely found in other capital cities
but a new one for Bucharest: we hope they do really well.
Theres wine by the glass if you fancy a drink and prices are
good. Closes at 21:00 (with the market) so get there early.
QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 3-6, tel. (+4) 031 436 70 42/(+4)
0756 05 80 12. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. . GSW
April - May 2015
27
Restaurants
PIATA OBOR
Bucharests biggest market has
changed beyond recognition since
Bucharest In Your Pocket first
visited in 1999, but if you look
hard enough you can still find
much of its old charm
Bucharest In Your Pockets first visit to the huge Bucharest
market at Obor would have been some time early in the
spring of 1999, just as we were preparing our first guide.
We were looking for one of those little metal devices you
shoved into your television cable in order to get free HBO.
In those days thats the kind of place Obor was: a byword
for dodgy deals. The old market hall where you bought
your meat was accompanied by an open-sided building
where costermongers sold fruit and vegetables, while
the surrounding area was a kind of shanty-town where
traders sold just about everything, and where you didnt
ask any questions about where the goods came from.
Obor has been a market since at least the 18th century, when it was known as the Piata Targului de Afara, a
place for traders from outside of Bucharest to do business; the name Obor came into use during the early
part of the 19th century. During this period Obor was
infamous as the location of Bucharests gallows: public
executions would take place on market days to ensure a
good crowd.
The practice was halted in 1823, but the gallows itself remained in place until 1870. In 1877, market traders
raised a stone cross on the site of the gallows to commemorate those killed here. The cross, despite being
declared a protected monument in 2004, was nevertheless moved in 2009 during the renovation of the market. It today stands in front of the Sector 2 Town Hall, a
hundred metres or so to the right of the market itself.
It has been re-dedicated as a monument to Romanian
independence, and its original purpose played down.
Indeed, when the Sector 2 council published a history of
the Obor area in its newspaper Foisorul de Foc in 2012, no
mention of the gallows was made.
Obors main market hall an elegant, linear and
modernist building known as Halele Obor was built in
the 1940s. Its architects, Horia Creanga and Haralamb
Georgescu, also designed the Patria Cinema block on
Bulevardul Magheru, as well as the splendid art deco Aro
Palace hotel in Brasov.
Much as it has been since it opened, the interior of
Halele Obor is today mainly given over to fresh produce,
primarily meat. Prices are decent if not cheap, and judging from what we saw as we walked around, quality is
high. We also found a few things we dont usually see
in our average butchers or supermarket (we saw lambs

liver on sale, for example). There are also a number of
stalls selling all sorts of crap from Lenin caps and fur hats
to cheap childrens toys. There are also mainly upstairs
a few wonderful reminders of the past, not least the
shoemenders shop.
When it comes to eating at Obor, the only food permitted are mici: you will find them at the far left-hand entrance/exit to the main market hall (just follow the smell).
Though more than a few locals will tell you to mind the
mici at Obor, we have been eating them for years, and
still served on a bit of card with mustard and bread
(which costs extra) they remain amongst Bucharests
best. We have never had any problems with them.
Mici and the old market hall aside, todays Obor is a
hugely different place however to the shanty town we
first visited in 1999. For starters, it looks different: in 2009
the old open-sided fruit and vegetable market was abandoned and the impromptu stalls removed: replaced by a
new, shiny, purpose-built mall.

If your idea of Romania is old

women selling onions on street
corners, Obor is where to come
The fruit and vegetable sellers are now inside this new
building, on the ground floor, although a few who cant
afford the price of a pitch hang around outside selling
their produce. You will also still come across at least a
handful of rogues. On our visit in January we were offered two smartphones, saw a ton of clearly fake Lego on
sale, counterfeit Violeta dolls and gallons of moonshine.
No, Obor is not as chaotic as it once was, but scrape the
surface just a tiny bit and you can still find the old roguish
place we grew to love.
So while we are happy to admit that Obor was almost
certainly a lot more fun in the old days, before it got a
facelift, and before the new hala was built, it nevertheless remains one of those quintessential Bucharest experiences which really ought to be part of any visit to the
city. If your idea of Romania is old women selling onions
on street corners, Obor is where to come.
Restaurants
TAVERNA PESCAREASCA LA ZAVAT Top little place
with more atmosphere in its small toe than most other restaurants have in their entire bodies. Cracking menu of primarily fish and seafood, though there are local Romanian
and international favourites too. An exemplary wine list
(for all budgets) makes it a super place for vineyard fans: all
of Romanias top wineries are represented.QE-5, Str. Popa
Nan 16, tel. (+4) 021 252 29 56/(+4) 0766 52 67 91, www.
taverna-lazavat.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
SPANISH
ALIOLI TAPAS Order yourself a San Miguel or a pitcher
of Sangria and stick your feet up. Great tapas and cocktail
bar, frequented by nice people who all come ready to chat.
Top food choices include the mussels, the paella, the osso
bucco and the gambas al ajillo. Of the desserts, the saban de almendras was the best. Its all good though, and
excellent value, not least the lunchtime set menu. Nice
place too.QB-5, Str. Popa Tatu 4, tel. (+4) 021 311 80 27/
(+4) 0721 38 49 83, www.alioli.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. . PLESW
PATA NEGRA COPAS Y TAPAS The moment you walk
in and see the huge Spanish hams hanging above the bar
you will know that you have come to the right place. There
have been a few attempts at creating a genuine Spanish
tapas bar in Bucharest over the years: this is perhaps the
first to truly get it right. Those in the know can order a
range of tapas from the menu, while beginners can just
ask the great staff select a few for you. Everything is authentic: it is all imported from Spain, and the icing on the
cake is the paella, made exactly as it should be with all the
right ingredients. Add in top Spanish wines and you have
every reason to go there right now.QB-5, Str. Crisana 21,
tel. (+4) 0734 34 90 76, www.patanegra.ro. Open 12:00
- 24:00. Closed Mon. . PBW
STEAK HOUSES
JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST
The JW Marriott hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses:
the JW Steakhouse, only the second such signature venue
to open in Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse experience, right down to the Black Angus beef
imported from the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in
at nearly a kilo - is the pick of the steaks, but there is much
more besides, including broiled lobster and Australian
lamb chops. There is a great selection of new world wines,
and they open early for breakfast: the American pancakes
and eggs Benedict are a great option to start the day with.
Note that JW is closed Saturday lunchtime, and for dinner Sunday evening.QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW
Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel.
(+4) 021 403 19 03, www.jwsteakhouse.ro. Open 06:30
- 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 - 11:00,
18:30 - 23:30. Sunday Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers,
children between six and twelve half price, children under six free. . PLESW
OSHO
Sometimes when writing a review, all you really want to
write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers shop and
restaurant serving T-bone steaks you would scream for in
the dark. There is more than steak on the menu though,
such as a top burger (which comes in three sizes), tangy
lamb chops and an outstanding selection of fresh fish.
Plus, theres a kids menu. We also have to admit to being
pleasantly surprised about the prices: given the location
(this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they are more than reasonable considering you get the best of the best. Packed at
lunchtime.QB-2, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor,
tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31/(+4) 021 568 30 32, www.oshorestaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. . PTVSW
ROYAL STEAK
For once, a place claiming to be something unique in Romania actually delivers: this is certainly a first as far as our
experience goes. The meat and seafood here (and it is all
of the finest quality, shipped in from Argentina and around
the world) is cooked on hot stones, which are brought to
your table (with three magnificent sauces) so that you can
cook it as much (or as little) as you like. If you dont fancy
doing it yourself the staff are on hand to help out. The
place itself is classy: smart without overdoing it, and is perfect for a treat. Note that you can also buy steaks here to
cook at home.QC-4, Piata Romana 8, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0751 18 21 10, www.royalsteak.ro. Open 12:00
- 23:00. . PALBSW
April - May 2015
29
Restaurants
PRICE GUIDE
Each of the restaurants featured in this edition of Bucharest In Your Pocket includes a rough guide as to how much
you should approximately expect to pay for a three-course
meal, with a decent local wine (if applicable):

- Under 10 per person

- 10-20 per person
- 20-30 per person
- Over 30 per person
VACAMUUU
One of the most talked-about chophouse in the city.
Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good that even
the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling, you can
also feast on lamb, veal and pork chops, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else. There is a kids menu,
and the weekend all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet is top
value. Most of the meat can be bought to take home and
cook yourself should you wish, and then theres the wine
list: a surprise we will let you discover yourself when you
come here.QC-3, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35
11 35, www.vacamuuu.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. .
PTSW
VEGAN
THAI
KUNNAI
At last, a place for those of us who have been craving
something authentically Thai since Moods closed a while
ago now. This place is terrific, found on the ground floor
of a new apartment block in a leafy northern part of Bucharest. The food is the real deal, of which the food will
convince you immediately. We had the Pla Praew Waan
fish stir-fry followed by the prawn Phad Thai: both were
sensational and well worth the money (its good value if
not exactly cheap). Get there now.QStr. Copilului 6, tel.
(+4) 0722 68 73 43/(+4) 0722 68 74 54, www.kunnai.
ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 23:00. .
PTLSW
LOVEGAN
Vegan and raw-vegan food cooked (or prepared!) with
just a little extra care than usual, at prices which are also
a tad higher than usual. We think the extra is well worth it,
however: the food here is as tasty and inventive as it gets,
from the simple yet delicious risotto with asparagus to the
more complex kokopelli: quinoa with sauteed vegetables
and a surprisingly hot sauce. The menu of the day is always
good value, and note that they deliver (although there is a
small charge). Closes at 8pm, so get here well in time. But
do get here: its as un-Bucharest as they come. A real treat.
QB-4, B-dul Lascr Catargiu 1, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0742 12 11 03/(+4) 021 367 23 66, www.lovegan.
ro. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. .
PAVSW
URBAN CONTEMPORARY
VEGETARIAN
RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY

Fine, upmarket yet casual restaurant of the new school in
Floreasca/Dorobanti. The spacious, modern, well-lit dining room gives you a real sense of grandeur without ever
becoming kitsch: a trick few have managed to pull off in
Bucharest. There is little point telling you about the food
as the menu changes almost daily: what we can say is that
whatever you order you are likely to be happy with it. This
is a great restaurant.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 40-44,
tel. (+4) 0744 10 56 13, www.madamepogany.ro. Open
09:00 - 00:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. . PLSW
BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like youve never

tasted. So good in fact that even the most fervent meat
eaters will leave happy. There is a wide range of soups (the
coconut soup being our favourite) as well as pasta and salad. Of the main meals the lentil risotto with avocado was
fabulous, and the desserts are an inventive treat. Barca will
deliver - to home or office - and many of the ingredients
can be bought should you wish to try cooking some of
this stuff at home. Closes early.QB-3, Str. Emanoil Porumbaru 9, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 92 82 78/(+4) 0747
59 47 18, www.restaurantbarca.ro. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. . PVSW
CASA SATYA
Where do you start when reviewing a place like this? The
concept is Ayurveda, as in the pseudo-scientific system of
natural healing. Food wise, that means everything here is
meat free, and made with only organic ingredients. That
does not mean forgoing taste: the delicious chutneys
served with the poppadoms will convince you of that right
from the off. The toilets by the way are amazing, and as
you might expect, it is totally non-smoking.QA-3, B-dul
Banu Manta 25, tel. (+4) 0736 39 25 87, www.satya.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PVGBSW
Restaurants
SLOW FOOD
BECAS KITCHEN Following much the same path as
that trodden by Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant
is a magnificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked
food. The place itself is gorgeously simple in its decor,
at once homely and welcoming. The food is fantastic,
with the menu changing more or less every day: check
the blackboard for todays specials. You can also buy
homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.QC-4, Str.
Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0722
30 89 60, www.becaskitchen.ro. Open 18:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. . PGSW
METUKA Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the
food is seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-sourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price:
both to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes
every day, but there is always a good choice for either
lunch or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial dishes), as well as some terrific desserts.QB-4,
B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0734 16 57 46/(+4) 0740 05 55 49, www.metuka.ro.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. . PVSW
THE LONDON STREET BISTRO What you have
here is outstanding homemade food served with a
smile in a splendid setting. The wonderfully inventive menu (which changes often) is packed with tasty
treats (Stilton pate is one, while at this time of year the
shepherds pie is an absolute must) and nothing costs
as much as it really ought to. This is fine food at half
the price of elsewhere. The cook and owner is usually
around to add a personal tip or two, or hand out something new she has just come up with in the kitchen.
There is an amazing wine list (and wine tasting evenings), there are a few English beers, a Romanian craft
beer and you can enjoy it all on a lovely terrace.QC-3,
Str. Putul Lui Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 0736 93 35 31, www.
thelondonstreetatelier.com. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. . PVGBW
VIOLETAS BISTRO The concept is great: very good
traditional and modern Romanian food (the cook is
not afraid to experiment) with more than a nod towards the vegetarian served off a menu that changes
regularly. You can check the latest menu online (it is
always up to date) and then decide if you fancy anything before setting off. Chances are you will spot
plenty you like. The brunch from 11:00-16:00 on Saturdays is excellent value at 80 lei per person: kids under
seven are free. The place itself (now in a new location)
is lovely, the staff wonderful and as a whole it is just so
un-Bucharest that you will want to squeeze it and hug
it.QD-6, Str. George Ionescu-Gion 9, tel. (+4) 0722
52 56 43, www.violetas.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat
10:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. . PGBSW
April - May 2015
31
Cafs
BLACK EYE COFFEE Bright little cafe packed with comfy

armchairs close to Cismigiu Park, serving a decent range
of well-priced coffee, including an outstanding Jamaica
Blue Mountain. You can also try out various coffee brewing
methods, from an aeropress to a syphon. Oh, and the place
is wholly non-smoking, worthy of commendation.QB-5,
B-dul Regina Elisabeta 59, tel. (+4) 0768 93 66 40, www.
blackeyecoffee.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00. PGSW
NEW
BOHEMIA TEA HOUSE We rarely use the word cool, but
few others do justice to this rather unqiue tea house. Colourful and not a little bizarre, the loft here - packed with cushions and soft furnishings just right for crashing on - is a great
place to spend an afternoon. As the weather warms up, the
shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from the heat. Serves
a massive range of exotic tea, and its non-smoking.QB-5,
Str. Poiana Narciselor 1, tel. (+4) 0727 33 36 31, www.
bohemiatea.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PGW
CAFE & GRADINA VERONA Sublime. At the brilliant
Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee,
teas, cocktails, beer and a vast range of fabulous lemonade.
There is also good food, both from an a la carte menu as
well as a terrific value set lunch. They have one of the best
selection of vegan dishes in the city (including delicious
vegetable noodles, a good korma and decent humus). Service is always great from the top staff, and there is often a
cultural event happening (including occasional live music).
Given how popular the place is (particularly the amazing

garden/courtyard in warmer weather) we suggest making
a reservation if you want a table.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur
Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60.
Open 09:00 - 24:00. PESW
CAFE TIMES
Free speedy Wifi with your (excellent) coffee and a cando attitude from the staff who appear to realise that
sometimes people are busy, and need their coffee double
quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Having said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you
end up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how
busy you are.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.cafetimes.ro. Open 07:30 24:00. PLESW
CAMERA DIN FATA
The name means Front room, and being here is in many
ways just like being somebodys front room. Great coffee
and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at
tables which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso
on its way to work. Theres wine, and cocktails, too, and
many people will insist the place is even better in the
evening, not least because its fully non-smoking. You will
need a reservation.QC-4, Str. Mendeleev 22, tel. (+4) 021
311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro. Open 08:00 - 22:00,
Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
PGSW
Cafs
NEW
THE COFFEE FACTORY Such a good place we considered leaving it out of the guide so that we could have it
all to ourselves! Non-smoking, this place offers some very
exotic coffee (how about a sweet and aromatic Guatemala
Acatenango, or a Masala spiced brew?) as well as rather
excellent (and growing) selection of some very good wine.
There are also croissants, brownies, biscuits and quiche if
your a bit peckish. Its great.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta
54, tel. (+4) 0766 28 24 70, www.thecoffeefactory.ro.
Open 09:00 - 23:00. PGSW
NEW
FRUDISIAC Minimalist yet strikingly designed, this is a cafe,
juice bar and breakfast/brunch venue all in one. Exceedingly
laid back, it serves the best hot chocolate in town alongside
a wide range of juices, smoothies and some excellent light
meals, it has become an instant hit with those people lucky
enough to get a seat. Fortunately, good weather heralds the
opening of the courtyard, which will see the capacity treble.
A little piece of Sweden in the middle of Dorobanti.QB-3,
Str. Intrarea Bitolia 4, tel. (+4) 021 231 04 11/(+4) 0730 64
19 43. Open 08:00 - 19:00. PGW
LENTE & CAFEA
While best-loved as a summer venue (the large garden/
courtyard is delightful) the interior of this place should not
be overlooked either. The food is excellent, a cut above the
Bucharest average. The salads are big and tasty and there
is a surprisingly good range of beef dishes, although best
of all we liked the gulas soup.QD-5, Str. Arcului 2, tel. (+4)
021 210 96 96, www.lente.ro. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 01:00. PVGSW
M60 Elegant, contemporary cafe in an enviable city centre location. Eclectically furnished, parts of it feel like an
office, parts of it feel like your living room and other bits
resemble an upmarket diner: there is something for everyone. Coffee (their own blend), a craft beer and wine by the
glass, alongside light meals and desserts. All very nice, all
very chic and all very popular: at weekends the place is
full. Worth your time.QC-5, Str. Mendeleev 2, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 00 10, m60cafe.tumblr.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. PGW
ORIGO This place is all about great coffee from all over the
world, as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many
of the more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to
make at home, and the design of the place is not too shabby
either: the coffee cups hanging down over the bar are a nice
touch. Theres relaxing music, cocktails and - here comes the
big news - inside it is totally non-smoking.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 88. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat
09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PGSW
READERS CAFE This place is one of the great things
about the Metropolis Centre, of which the Starlight Suites
and Loft restaurant also form part. You will find Readers
on the ground floor, a modern, bright and well-lit space
where you can read, drink great coffee or eat - far better
than you would expect. The breakfast is terrific, the sandwiches tasty and well-filled, the salads big and the pasta
light.QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 89-97, MStefan
cel Mare, tel. (+4) 0737 32 33 77, www.readerscafe.
ro. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
PLESW
SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucharest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
- to Romanias architectural association. The cafe (and bar)
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
with scenes from the revolution.QC-5, Str. Demetru Ion
Dobrescu 5, MUniversitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98,
www.subsolbar.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
TUCANO COFFEE Currently Bucharests most talkedabout cafe, not least for the fact that it serves amazing
cheesecake and its freshly roasted speciality Arabica coffee. This is much more than a simple cafe however: it puts
on all sorts events, both for kids at the weekends and for us
grown ups in the evenings. It hosts yard sales, book clubs,
workshops, music evenings and film nights. Bohemian
and non-conformist it is Bucharest at its best. Oh, and we
should add that it is non-smoking. Hurrah!QC-4, Calea
Dorobantilor 18, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0761 37 66
26, www.tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PEGBSW
April - May 2015
33
Nightlife
BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY
BAR A1 A little bit of everything in a very nice package.
Food (including breakfast), drink (the milkshakes are fab,
there is a range of rather unusual beers, while the wine
selection is better than your average wine bar) and cakes
that would shame most bakeries. The place itself is delightfully chic in that slightly shabby way, and the crowd
that meets here is equally relaxed. You will love the place.
QB-4, Str. Piata Amzei 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0723 12 48 47. Open 8:00 - 00:30. NS
LUDIC Quirky little bar close to the Old Town which
while not being on the beaten track is a highly popular
venue indeed. Serving beer, cocktails and coffee there is
a nice sunny terrace out back, but the big draw here are
the board games: tens of them, everything from Scrabble
to Cluedo.QC-5, Str. Coltei 50, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
031 438 01 79. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00 - 04:00, Sat
15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PW
BARS: UPMARKET
ENGLISH BAR
One of our regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton
that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it
has been around for nearly a century, as long as the hotel)
remains today a classy bar serving champagne by the glass
and much else besides (including a tremendous pint of
Guinness). Packed most days with business leaders it also
regularly hosts sophisticated parties, and on some Thursday nights this little bar becomes the most happening
venue in town, a favourite of Bucharests fashionistas. Essential, get here now.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee
Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77 ext. 6759. Open
11:00 - 02:00. PLW
INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of the Inter, which was a den
of iniquity and intrigue during the communist period,
all spies and journalists, plots and honey traps. Now its
merely a very cool place to meet and have a drink in superb surroundings. Another one of the many reasons why
the InterContinental is once again one of the top places in
Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4

(Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021
310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
PAVILION LOUNGE The JW Marriotts newest addition
is a suitably stylish and contemporary venue boasting
one of the most elegant bars in the city. There are various
seating areas, from the stools at the bar to comfy sofas
and armchairs. Throw in a top cocktail list and great staff
and it all means that the citys other business bars have
some real competition at last. Top stuff.QB-6, Calea 13
Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel),
tel. (+4) 021 403 19 04, www.jwmarriottbucharest.
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
WINE BAR
THE WINE BISTRO BY VINEXPERT Vinexpert has
been the leading Romanian wine dealer for years, its shops
stocking a range of both local and imported wine from
around the world. Since the end of January its outlets have
been joined by this wine bar/bistro at the top end of historic Calea Victoriei, where you can sample a vast range of
wine (by the glass if you wish). Super-knowledgeable staff
will guide you around their vast selection - do not be afraid
to ask for help.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 155, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0744 48 13 07/(+4) 031 405 19 19, www.
vinexpert.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. PW
PUBS
ENERGIEA
We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and big windows
make it a good choice day and night, the original (we
think?) tiled floor looks great and there are a number of
different rooms, not all of which carry the industrial-chic
look of the main bar, good for get togethers with larger
groups. Best of all though we like the raised interior balcony, which is top cocktail-sipping territory. Most nights
you will need a reservation.QB-6, Str. Brezoianu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.ro.
Open 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
PLBSW
Nightlife
OPERA & BALLET LISTINGS
All performances take place at the Romanian
National Opera. See foot of the page for details.
April
Opera
15, 16
18
19
RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI

TOSCA GIACOMO PUCCINI
PUSS IN BOOTS CHILDRENS OPERA
DON GIOVANNI
19
19:00
WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART
HANSEL & GRETEL CHILDRENS
30
11:00
OPERA
Ballet & Contemporary Dance
25, 26,
TRIPTIC DE BALET
19:00
29
PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT
TANGO, RADIO & JULIET
30
19:00
EDWARD CLUG
May
Opera
HANSEL & GRETEL
2, 16
11:00
CHILDRENS OPERA
LELISIR DAMORE
2, 7, 17 19:00
GAETONO DONIZETTI
THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO
9
19:00
WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART
FALSTAFF
14, 15 19:00
GIUSEPPE VERDI
23, 24,
MANON LESCAUT
19:00
30, 31
GIACOMO PUCCINI
Ballet & Contemporary Dance
3, 10,
TRIPTIC DE BALET
19:00
11, 16
PROKOFIEV, MOZART, LISZT
6
19:00 FEMEI GHEORGHE IANCU
TANGO, RADIO & JULIET
8, 28
19:00
EDWARD CLUG
ROMANIAN NATIONAL OPERA Bucharests elegant opera house was built in the early 1950s. You can
book seats online, and print off your own tickets.QA-5,
B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314
69 80, www.operanb.ro. Box office open 09:00-13:00,
15:00-19:00.
19:00
19:00
11:00
April - May 2015
35
Nightlife
PRIMUS Big pub that goes a long way towards convincing us that we do not need to go to Old Town to find a
decent drinker in Bucharest. From the very good attempt
at an English breakfast to a decent pint of both Guinness
and Kilkenny you can add their own beer, Primus, a decenttasting bargain. The huge windows make it feel much like
a street cafe. Service is good too, and we love the retrostyle black and white tiled floor.QB-5, Str. George Enescu 3, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 22 26 66, www.
primuspub.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PW
SHIFT Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this
place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/
bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has
been packed since opening day with the hippest and
coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smartest chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about
everybody else) love it.QC-4, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17,
tel. (+4) 021 211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 03:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. PW
WHITE HORSE The White Horse has been around so
long it should probably consider going out to stud. Or
should it? On a recent visit we found it to be in surprisingly
good shape, and packed with both locals of the ordinary
people variety, as well as group of rowdy expats. There is
still good food in the more formal part upstairs, with bar
snacks served down. We have always loved the square bar.
QB-3, Str. George Clinescu 4A, tel. (+4) 021 231 27 95,
www.whitehorse.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PSW
IRISH PUBS
DUBLINER
Legendary boozer in the sense that it was the first real pub
to open in Bucharest (back in 1995). Unchanged in years
the Dubliner remains a favourite of many old school expats, although the location makes it a bit of a trek for Old
Town or city centre-based visitors. Serves a good chicken
pie and English breakfast, an exemplary Guinness and offers a wide range of sports courtesy of Sky TV.QA-4, B-dul
N. Titulescu 18, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 260 26
78. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 02:00. PBSW
LIVE MUSIC LISTINGS

16 April - White Mahala @ Club 52
16 April - Sivu @ Colectiv
16 April - Pro Consul @ Hard Rock Cafe
17 April - Romanian Rock Legends @ Sala Palatului
17 April - Vama @ Beraria H
21 April - Behemoth @ Colectiv
23 April - Grimus @ Hard Rock Cafe
24 April - Speak Floyd @ Hard Rock Cafe
25 April - Negative Core Project @ Fabrica
25 April - Trooper @ Arenele Romane
25 April - Ovi & The Twins @ Hard Rock Cafe
26 April - Wovenhand @ Silver Church
6 May - Skeletonwitch @ Colectiv
6 & 7 May - The Tiger Lillies @ Control
7 May - Compact @ Hard Rock Cafe
10 May - Ane Brun @ Sala Palatului
11 May - Ray Wilson @ Sala Palatului
13 May - Yngwie Malmsteen @ Sala Palatului
17 May - Roxette @ Arenele Romane
20 May - Julio Iglesias @ Sala Palatului
21 May - Francesca Belmonte @ Control
27 May - Pablo Alboran @ Sala Palatului
28 May - Black @ Sala Palatului
28 May - Directia 5 @ Hard Rock Cafe
For full venue details visit inyourpocket.com.
Besides the gigs listed here look out too for regular live
music at Mojo in the Old Town (p.60) which hosts top
local bands alongside its resident band. Club A (p.60) is
another decent bet for live music, while outside of the
Old Town Hard Rock Cafe (p.18) and Control (p.37) are
known for their range of live music. Kulturhaus (p.39)
similarly has live bands on most evenings.
JAZZ CLUB
GREEN HOURS JAZZ CAF
There is live jazz here alongside other arty stuff - including theatre, comedy, book launches and the like
- most evenings. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages, its definitely a place you should visit
once before leaving Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei
120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24 85/(+4) 021 313 86 06,
www.greenhours.ro. Check the venues website for
concert details. PENBW
Nightlife
THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT
The Harp is back, and is better than ever before. In fact, if
you havent been here for a while you might hardly recognise the place. Set over two levels, with two great bars, the
Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the food is fabulous, a
cut above your usual pub grub and bordering on the outstanding. The enormous burger they have started serving
here might be a contender for the citys biggest. There
is live music some nights, and be warned: as big as this
place is it has become rather popular again. If you want a
table (especially at the weekend) make a reservation.QC6, Str. Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 55
44 55, office@theharp.ro, www.theharp.ro. Open 08:30
- 02:00. PESW
BEERHALLS
BERARIA H A former exhibition hall (one of many in Herastrau; this one was known as Pavilion H) has been converted into what the owners claim is the largest beerhall in eastern Europe. Having seen the size of the place we are inclined
to agree. There are various areas in which you can enjoy your
beer, but its all a little too big: even so, if there is a popular
band on (there is lots of live music here at weekends) you
may have to queue to get in. The selection of draught beer
was a tad disappointing, although it does come at a decent
price. There is a decent range of food though, surprisingly
so.QA-1, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725 34 53 45, www.
berariah.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PESW
BERARIE GAMBRINUS One of the most celebrated
and historic pubs in Bucharest - haunt, for decades, of
Caragiale, Gica Petrescu and every other local carouser returns, this time as something of a Heineken-pub. There is
Romanian beer on tap though, Gambrinus, Silva and Ciuc,
available by the metre if thats what you fancy. Theres
some good pub grub too, not least the sausages which
were terrific. Prices more than reasonable and theres
even a non-smoking section.QB-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0744 31 51 10, www.
berariegambrinus.ro. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PSW
PANTELIMON ART TOWER

PANTELIMON ART TOWER (MAKE A POINT)
A climb to the top of the staircase which wraps itself
around the 37-metre high Pantelimon Art Tower offers a genuinely unique look at Bucharest. Built in the
1960s the water tower is still functional (it cools water
for the Postavaria textile plant) while Make a Point (the
organisation behind the Art Tower project) make use of
the interior for exhibitions and installations. Windows
have been added and as you make your way up the
stairs you can look inside and see the work on display
(which is often hung from the rafters). The real joy of
the tower however is the perspective of Bucharest you
get from the viewing platform at the top. For what you
see from up here is far more representative of this city
than what you will see from any of the tall buildings
closer to the city centre. The blocks, the factories, the
traffic: these are what an eastern European city like Bucharest is all about. Blocks in which people sleep, before travelling on the busy roads to their places of work
in the factories. To get to the tower, take bus No. 104
from Piata Unirii. Its a long ride, which takes in some
of the less picturesque parts of Bucharest: if you have
been paying attention, however, you will realise thats
kind of the point... QSos. Morarilor 1, tel. (+4) 0723
75 32 00, www.makeapoint.ro. The tower is open
on request. Call (+4) 0723 753 200 to arrange a visit
(English spoken). Admission free.
LIVE MUSIC CLUBS

CONTROL CLUB Still tops our list of clubs for people
who do not like clubs. It is a brilliant place where there is
always something going on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests better live acts. Note also that
it opens early afternoon: it is now a pub as much as a club,
and when the weather is good enough it has a smart terrace. Food upstairs at Alt Shift. Fantastic.QC-5, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78
61, www.control-club.ro. Open 13:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun
14:00 - 06:00. PEW
OLDIES BAR & CLUB This centrally-located cafe, bar
and live music club is the kind of place that grown ups who
still have plenty of party left in them (like us) are going to
love. Open from early for coffee, as it gets dark it turns into
April - May 2015
37
Nightlife
a club, with karaoke on Wednesday and Thursday alongside stand-up comedy. Friday and Saturday there are usually good local acts performing live. We are also told that
in the not too distant future there will be a mellow piano
bar feel to the place on Sunday and Monday. There arent
many clubs in this city we are happy to send people: this,
however, is one. Recommended.QC-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 16, tel. (+4) 0728 21 96 01, www.oldiesclub.ro.
Open 09:00 - 02:30. PJEW
TRIBUTE Besides a fantastic resident band, Tribute is also
regularly host to a number of the best live acts in the business, who love the atmosphere provided by a great crowd
and wonderful acoustics. Basically, if the excitement of live
music is what you are looking for, this is one first class venue.
Bang in the city centre (its on Calea Victoriei) its a great
choice if you are stuck in a downtown pub thinking about
where to move on to. Plan on staying late.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) 0728 74 28 83, www.tribute.ro. Open
22:00 - 06:00, Closed Mon Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND

DEJA-VU A place that goes from strength to strength. Still
the best cocktail bar this side of the River Prut, it is now open
during the day for food too: you could spend your whole life
in here. The draw though remain the participatory cocktails,
some of which involve fire, and a few which involve wearing
a World War II Russian army helmet. They also serve at least
one which involves a young Russian girl squeezing lemon
into your mouth with her teeth. At weekends it is packed
and the small dancefloor is the sweatiest place in Bucharest.
You will love it.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 25, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 23 22/(+4) 0721 91 82 79, www.
dejavu-club.ro. Open 17:00 - 04:00. PENW
EXPIRAT & OTHERSIDE CLUB A club with two faces. Expirat is home to some of Bucharests most eclectic
sounds, and as it has an OtherSide (Expirats club within a
club), chances are there is bound to be something going
on you fancy. The music policy is a bit of everything: folk
(usually live on Mondays), electro, alternative, rock and indie with hip-hop, reggae and disco sometimes thrown in
for good measure. (Check the venues Facebook page to
ROMANIAN BEER
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer,
and while today there are just 20 breweries in the country (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such
statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania,
which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of
investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best
known beers have been saved from extinction and improved, and in a number of cases new brews launched:
the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one
such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements
in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains
home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe. We
have long suggested that the countrys marketing people use the fact in their international campaigns.
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask locals what the national beer is, most
will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed
since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also produces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc
(along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs
locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popular. Other notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular
in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark
is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest
have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at
least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere:
Caru cu bere, Oktoberfest, Re:Public and Biutiful are four
such places. There arent that many craft beers in Romania, but there are a few if you know where to look. If you
get the chance, Zaguna is excellent: the London Street
Bistro (see page 34) always has it in stock.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trouble
finding the major international brands: Heineken, Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are all
popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usually
a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff, no
beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei, even
in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equivalent)
of local draught (la halba) beer costs from 7-8 lei, often
even cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all
over the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians)
it is also relatively expensive.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restaurants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
Nightlife
see whats on the night you fancy going). Drinks are well
priced, and there are two bars meaning that you never
have to wait too long to get served. Top notch.QB-5, Str.
Ion Brezoianu 4, MPiata Unirii/Izvor, tel. (+4) 0733 97
47 28, www.expirat.org. Open 20:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. (Expirat); 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Thu, Sun. (The OtherSide). PEW
much the same downstairs (though it depends on the DJ).

Has a live band playing at least once a week, bags of other
events and refreshingly says NO to table service: yes, you
will have to get your sorry ass to the bar to get a drink. We
are fans.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 4, MPiata Unirii/Universitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 55 92, www.kulturhaus.ro. Open
22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PLEW
KULTURHAUS Recently renovated and redesigned, this

remains the student favourite. Attracts a nakedly noncommercial crowd on two levels by offering hard rock,
folk rock, new wave, punk and indie upstairs, and pretty
UPMARKET CLUBS
SMOKING
If youve been in Romania for more than five minutes
you would have already noticed that the good people of this country seriously like their fags, and will in
general light up anywhere and everywhere with little
thought given to the health of others. In some venues,
notably pubs and clubs, you could indeed be forgiven
for thinking that smoking is compulsory, or that prizes
were being given out for the most tabs smoked in an
evening. As such, be warned: if you go out in Bucharest
- even just for a meal - you will almost certainly come
home at the end of the evening reeking of tobacco
from head to foot. There are some exceptions to this
rule: a handful of cafes and restaurants do not allow
smoking at all, and we have marked all of these with a
non-smoking symbol: G. By and large though, expect
smokers to rule the roost wherever you are in the city.
Given that Bucharests stray dog problem now appears
to have been put down (see page 12, and forgive the
pun), it is the offensive levels of smoke in the vast majority of the citys venues that is increasingly becoming
the Romanian capitals biggest image problem.
Now, in the interests of objectivity we should probably point out of course that if you happen to like a puff
or two yourself, then you are in luck: Bucharest is basically a smokers Disneyland. Not only can you smoke
just about anywhere, but cigarettes remain incredibly
cheap in Romania: around 15 lei for a pack of 20 (thats
less than 3). Fill your boots. Or lungs.
BOA (BEAT OF ANGELS) From the outside a fairly

nondescript building that looks vaguely like a warehouse, but once in, wow! It is an enormous place that
mixes luxury with great music courtesy of two top local
The glorious art deco Union building,
on Str. Ion Campineanu (C-5).
April - May 2015
39
Nightlife
Which venue is closest?
Go to: m.inyourpocket.com
resident DJs. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty of
places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and
damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back
and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week.
Oh, and wear sunglasses, everybody else seems to!QB-3,
Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.boaclub.
ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PLEBW
CLUB BAMBOO
Super fitze club where only the best looking and the
best dressed stand any chance of getting in. If you can
blag your way past the staff you will enter a world where
poverty is a dirty word: only the richest Romanians come
here, and their dress sense is as good or bad as you can
imagine depending on your taste. Music is clubby, friendly
house, loud enough to dance to but mellow enough to
permit conversation. Always has loads of PAs from decent
acts as well of plenty of live entertainment from a touch of
cabaret to seriously underdressed ladies dancing on the
stage. Dom Perignon Blanc 3200 lei a bottle.QD-2, Str. Tuzla 50, tel. (+4) 0726 22 62 66/(+4) 0723 22 62 66, www.
bambooclub.ro. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Sun. PLW
FRATELLI
Top notch. One of Bucharests uber-clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the city come to see and
be seen. Serving up a neverending supply of top DJs from
both Romania and abroad, it is clear that the people who
run this place consider the music to be as important as
anything else: something not every club in this town can
boast. Not cheap (kind of the point) if you stick to the beer
and do not sit at a table (which requires you buy a bottle
of spirits) then you can still have a reasonably priced night
out here. Brilliant.QD-2, Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03

62 22, www.fratelli.ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PL
PLAYER CLUB
The concept at super-club Player this year is subtly different to last year, and the place has been given a thorough
makeover to keep it sparkling and at the cutting edge of
the Bucharest nightlife scene: honestly, if its top people
and top sounds you want in an exclusive setting then this
should be your first stop in the city. Boasts the sexiest
dancers, the best DJs - often as many as four top names
in one night - and is guaranteed to leave you bleary-eyed
the next morning and wanting more. We should also point
out that the attitude is a bit more relaxed here than that
at some of the other uber-clubs: just how we like it. Get
in.QA-2, Str. Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4)
0720 73 47 34/(+4) 0737 73 73 34, www.theplayer.
ro. Open 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun.
PLBCW
VICE ADVICE
For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery,
there are three options, of which only one is legal.
The legal option (and the only option we recommend) is
erotic massage at a reputable massage parlour. You will
not be offered sex at these places, but there is still much
fun to be had, from happy ending massages to full body
massage from one, two or even three nubile young ladies.
Prices start at around 35 though climb higher at the more
central, luxurious establishments.
The second option is to simply head for a brothel. These
establishments advertise themselves as legitimate strip
or nightclubs, but act mainly as fronts for brothels. After sitting yourself down at a table you will be served
expensive drinks, before being joined by some young
ladies who will try to convince you to buy them cocktails (usually orange juice with an umbrella, costing a fortune). After half an hour of bored conversation you may
be asked if you would like to retreat to a more intimate
location, usually a room above, or even in, the nightclub
itself. Expect to pay a minimum of 100 for the privilege,
as well buy an obligatory bottle of sparkling wine, which
usually costs at least another 50. All this on top of your
already huge tab. We suggest avoiding anywhere calling
itself a nightclub and promising girls. Be particularly circumspect in and around the Old Town.
The third option is to call one of the escorts who advertise in many of the poor quality city guides found around
town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to
think twice before picking up the phone.
Sightseeing
ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST
The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days is
usually the Historic Centre, or Old Town. The Peasant and
Village Museums should not be missed, and while still the
most famous building in the city, Casa Poporului/Palatul
Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for many people. Art lovers should pencil in at least an afternoon at the
National Art Museum, while last but not least half a day at
the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian
literary, artistic, political and architectural history.
CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Palatul Parlamentului (known
universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m
above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been
shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally
designed (by a young architect, Anca Petrescu, who was
just 28 at the time) to house almost all the organs of the
communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament, as well as Romanias Museum of Contemporary Art.
The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended
(it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the
commentary often consists of little more than a guide reeling off superlative statistics. Youll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if
you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on
the roof, which offers perhaps the defining view of central
Bucharest. You can now even take a trip into the bowels of
the building down below, though again this costs extra. To
join one of the tours you will need to bring your passport.
Use the entrance on the left-hand side of the palace (if
youre looking at it front-on). Izvor is the nearest metro station. QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor,
tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00
(last tour 15:30). Admission 25-45 lei adults, 13-23 lei students. Free for children under 18 and the disabled. An
additional fee of 30.00 lei is payable by those with cameras, either still or video.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATIONAL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the
great Romanian composer George Enescus former home,
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated
to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romafacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
nias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the

story of Romanian music in general. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free entry on the 26th of
each month.
GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURAL GRIGORE
ANTIPA) One of Romanias finest museums, and one of
the best natural history museums in Europe. Packed with
terrific exhibits which will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the best part of the day, there are all sorts
of hands-on, interactive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial
caves and - in the basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of animal and plant life native to Romania.
The building which houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted
Romanian naturalist who then set-up and ran the museum
for almost five decades until his death in 1944. QB-3, os.
Kiseleff 1, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.
antipa.ro. Open 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20
lei, pensioners 10 lei, children/students 5 lei.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA) The countrys largest, and most
impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid
former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home
by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It became a royal
residence in 1859, when it was chosen as the site of the
court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. There are two permanent galleries, split over
THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM

Recently reopened after a long period of restoration,
this lovely, centrally-located house is one of the finest
old residences in Bucharest, although blink and you
will miss it, hemmed in as it is by tall blocks. Built in
1868 as a home and studio by painter Theodor Aman
it includes a vast number of Amans work: the many
murals and frescoes are not the least of these. Look out
too for the exterior decorations, the work of sculptor
Karl Storck. A charming treat, and really something of
a must.QC-5, Str. C.A. Rosetti 8, tel. (+4) 021 314 58
12, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro/muzeul-theodoraman.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Adults 5 lei, children, students, pensioners 2 lei.
Photography fee 15 lei.
April - May 2015
41
Sightseeing
three floors of the main building. National Art (itself divided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved
altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of
frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias
greatest 20th century artists well represented, including
Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancui, Gheorghe Patracu,
and Gheorghe Tattarescu) and European Paintings and
Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old
European Masters from all of the major schools. QB/C-5,
Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021 313 30 30/(+4) 021
314 81 19, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. From May 1st Open 10.00-19.00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei
for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei
for combined tickets (both galleries). Free on the first
Wednesday of each month.
PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN) The Peasant Museum is one of the most enjoyable
in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed
in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae
Ghica-Budeti and dating from 1912, the museum offers
a range of exhibitions showing you just about all you
need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of
life around the Romanian countryside over the past four
centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to a huge
range of traditional clothing. Replicas of some of what is
on display can be bought in the excellent museum shop.
Fittingly for the building that from 1948-89 was home
to the Museum of the Communist Party and Romanian
Revolutionary Workers Movement, there is a rather good
although somewhat monolingual collectivisation exhibition in the basement. The Peasant Museum hosts excellent craft fairs in its courtyard at least once a month and
has a lovely (covered) terrace cafe. QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3,
MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Last admission 17:00. Admission 8 lei, students and
children 2 lei, pensioners 4 lei. Audio guides are available in English, French, German and Romanian, from
12 lei. Entrance to the craft fairs (held every month or
so) usually costs around 6 lei.
BELLU CEMETERY
Founded in the 1850s, this is the final resting place of
just about every great Romanian academic, scientist,
artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as
well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot,
usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu,
killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). Next to the
cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCalea
Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636
35 71, www.bellu.ro. Chapel open 08:00 - 16:00.
VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL

SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI)
Founded in 1936 and covering 15 hectares on the shores
of Lake Herstru, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest
outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than
60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and
churches from all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a
plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought
from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four
languages (if the stickers are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19thcentury, but there are some, such as those from Berbeti, in
the heart of Romania - celebrated for their intricately carved
entrances - which date from as early as 1775. The highlight
of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden
Maramure church, complete with exquisite but faded
icons. You should also not miss the earth houses of Straja,
dug in to the ground and topped with thatched roofs. The
museum has a great souvenir shop, and stalls selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn. Children love the
museum, and it makes for a perfect family outing. QA-2,
Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10,
www.muzeul-satului.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission
10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50 lei. Audio guides available for 50 lei, guided tours in English,
French, Spanish, Italian, Russian 300 lei: call in advance.
Note that while the museum is open on Mondays, the
houses are not.
Sightseeing
BUILDINGS WITH A HISTORY
Bucharest has a number of curious, historical buildings,
which fit none of our other categories all that well.
ARCUL DE TRIUMF Bucharests Arc de triumf was raised
in 1922 to commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The
original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present,
Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in 1935.
Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows
visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument,
though the whole building is currently being renovated,
and a pedestrian underpass built which will allow people
to get to it without risking their lives. QA-2, Piata Arcul de
Triumf, MAviatorilor.
ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMN) Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum, with its
sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the
citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert
Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania, the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888,
and was built almost entirely with money donated by
ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called
Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu)
rescued the project from folly after the original patrons
ran out of funds. Today the seat of the George Enescu
Philarmonic, the auditorium is renowned worldwide for its
outstanding acoustics. QC-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3,
tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67, www.fge.org.ro. Box Office Open
14:00 - 16:00.
CASA PRESEI LIBERE (CASA SCNTEII) An impressive edifice standing somewhat menacingly at the entrance
to the capital, Casa Scanteii (as it is still universally known)
was designed by architect Horia Maicu and completed in
1956, one year after the strikingly similar (though much
taller) Palace of Science and Culture in Warsaw, Poland. Built
to serve as the home of the capitals publishing houses, the
facade has in recent years been defaced by the addition of
advertising hoardings. QA-1, Piata Presei Libere 1.
CEC The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de
Economii si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous
Neo-Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that
houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns,
is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built
during the last decade of the nineteenth century, to the
designs of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is
no less impressive on the inside.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 13.
PALATUL DIN PIATA VICTORIEI (PALATUL VICTORIEI) Today the home of the Romanian government, this
linear construction was built in 1937 to the design of Duiliu
Marcu, originally to house the Foreign Ministry (which is now
elsewhere). Entrance is only granted to those on government
business. QB-4, B-dul Ilie Pintilie 1, MPiata Victoriei.
April - May 2015
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Sightseeing
BUCHAREST CITY TOUR
Now in its fourth year of operation the Bucharest City
Tour sightseeing bus - much maligned when it first
appeared - is more popular than ever and is without
question one of the best ways to explore the city.
In all there are 14 stops along the route (all are well signposted) and every one is directly outside or very close to
a major sight. Leaving Casa Scanteii (officially now called
Casa Presei Libere) the bus follows Soseaua Kiseleff, passing Herastrau Park and the Village Museum on the left,
and Romanias national rugby stadium on the right, before arriving at the Arc de Triumf.
From here the bus continues along Soseaua Kiseleff,
passing some of the most expensive real estate in Bucharest. Many of the splendid houses on this street are now
embassies. Pavel Kiseleff by the way, for whom the street is
named, was a modernising Russian general who was the
de facto governor of Bucharest and Wallachia in the 1830s.
A trio of good museums await at the next stop, at
the bottom of Soseaua Kiseleff. The best is the Peasant
Museum while the Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural
History and Geology Museum are also worth your time.
Calea Victoriei is Bucharests most famous street, and
you get a very different perspective from atop a bus than
you do at street level. The vast number of architectural
styles on show is immediately obvious, from the Brancovenesque houses at the northern end to the art-deco,
1930s apartment blocks further south. The biggest attraction on Calea Victoriei is probably Piata Revolutiei,
where the bus conveniently stops. On this huge square
you will find the Atheneum, the Athenee Palace Hilton,
the Former Royal Palace (now the National Museum of
Art), the Former Central Committee Building and the
Revolution Memorial, which locals call an olive on a stick.
The next stop is the rather amazing CEC building,
home of Romanias national savings bank, CEC. Opposite
is the Post Office Palace, a neoclassical gem built as the
home of the Romanian post office, but since 1970 the
site of the National History Museum. Behind the museum
is the Old Town area of the capital.
At the bottom of Calea Victoriei is the river Dambovita, now more a canal than anything, its embankments
little more than ugly concrete slabs. Until the 1970s
the river was a more natural-looking affair, its embankments covered in trees and foliage. Concrete-fan Nicolae
Ceausescu deemed it untidy, however, and its fate was
sealed. In a similar way the whole area that the bus now
enters was also tidied up: hundreds of houses, churches,
schools and even hospitals were razed in order to make
way for the Civic Centre, of which the most important
building is of course the Casa Poporului, where the bus
stops. It is almost impossible to imagine how this area
looked before the demolitions began (in 1984), but you
can get an idea by peering behind the blocks on Bulevardul Unirii at some of the few surviving houses and at the
church of the Antim Monastery, built in 1715 and which

survived demolition only by being moved 25 metres
from its original location.
Piata Unirii itself is one of the largest public squares in
Europe. That does not, however, make it one of the nicest. In fact, the square is an awful place, all concrete and
traffic. Respite can be found up the hill leading southwest from the square, home of the Romanian Patriarchal
Cathedral, known Mitropoliei. From Unirii the bus makes
its way along Bulevardul Ion Bratianu, named for a former Romanian prime minister. Look out for the Baratiei
Church on your right, which sticks out quite literally, almost into the street. First built in 1590 it is one of the oldest churches in Bucharest. Next stop is Piata Universitatii
(the bus stop is in fact outside the Coltea hospital and
church - well worth a short visit).
Opposite is the much-overlooked Museum of the History
Bucharest in the Sutu Palace, while on the other side of
the square is the university building itself. the InterContinental hotel and the National Theatre. The wierd statue in
front of the National Theatre is the Caruta cu paiate.
As you travel north along Bulevardul Magheru towards the next stop, Piata Romana, look out for two art
deco hotels, the Lido on the left (currently closed) and the
Ambassador on the right. Both built in the 1930s they are
crying out for five-star refits. Piata Romana is another of
Bucharests large public squares that is little more than a
mess of cars and concrete. On the right hand side is the
ASE building, home of Bucharests economics university.
From Piata Romana the bus makes its way along
Bulevardul Lascar Cartagiu towards Piata Victoriei. Smart
villas and apartment blocks line the avenue, named for
another former Romanian prime minister, Lascar Cartagiu. A large statue of Cartagiu can be spotted about half
way along the street, on the right hand side. At Piata
Victoriei, yet another Bucharest square that is little more
than concrete and traffic the only point of any real interest (other than the museums) is the 1930s Italianate
building on your right, once the foreign ministry but now
home to the Romanian government. Look out too for the
kitsch mansion on your right, the home of George Becali,
the owner of Steaua Bucharest who is currently serving a
long prison sentence for corruption. A little further along,
on your left is the Aviators Monument, dedicated to the
many aviation pioneers who hailed from these parts.
Arriving at Piata Aviatorilor, the bus rejoins Soseaua
Kiseleff, stopping once more (at the Village Museum) before ending its circuit back at Casa Scanteii.
Tickets for the buses are valid for 24 hours, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like
throughout the day. You do, however, need to validate the
tickets each time you board a bus. Tickets are priced at 25
lei for adults, 10 lei for children, and can be bought either on
board, at RATB ticket kiosks or at selected hotels.
Headphones offer basic recorded commentary in a number
of languages.
Sightseeing
HISTORIC CHURCHES
ANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)
The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on
the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the
Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally
intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women
and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower
through which we today enter the monastery was added in
1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring
for its icons featuring the Nativity and Revelations, painted
in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu.QB-6, Str. Antim 29.
APOSTLES CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOSTOLI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church
of the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable
for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936.
Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange
portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the
portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei.
QB-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii.
ARMENIAN CHURCH (BISERICA ARMENEASC)
Now overlooked by a hideous skyscraper, this is nevertheless one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox
churches in central Bucharest. The church (built between
1911-15) is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian
city of Ecmiazin, and serves the citys once large but now
miniscule Armenian population. Next to the church is an
interesting library with a large number of documents relating to the Armenian population (phone ahead for access). QD-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) 021 313 90 70,
www.armenianchurch.ro.
BARATIEI CHURCH (BISERICA BARATIEI)
Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a
church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in
Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from
the Hungarian word for friend, barat. QC-6, Str. Baratiei
27, MPiata Unirii/Universitate.
BUCUR CHURCH First built as early as 1416, this could
well be the site of the oldest church in Bucharest. Nobody
is exactly sure how long there has been a church here, but
we do know that it predates the Radu Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in 1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden as it is on a hill above
the street. The current church was built around 1720 (thoroughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the
cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and
the hill on which it stand were recently consolidated in order to prevent them falling further towards the Dambovita
river, just a few metres behind. The church is named for
Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucharest.
QC-7, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.
April - May 2015
45
Sightseeing
COLEA CHURCH (BISERICA COLEA) To the left
(face on) of the Colea hospital, the church of the same
name was built from 1701-2 on the site of an older, wooden
construction. Recent renovation has restored much of
the rich ornamentation of the interior, most of which was
painted in 1876 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. The church (like
the recently renovated hospital which surrounds it) was
founded by courtier Mihai Cantacuzino. Look out for the
Cantacuzino family crest above the vaguely Italian baroque
portal. A statue of Cantacuzino stands just inside the entrance to the hospital courtyard.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 1, MUniversitate.
CREULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREULESCU)
Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest.
Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian ruler
Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the
entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while
the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December
1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory,
and is a must. QC-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate.
DOMNIA BALAA CHURCH
To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin
Brncoveanus sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on
the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a
second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately
started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just
40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured,
Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after
another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to
be damaged again in the massive earthquake of 1977.QB-6,
Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii.
MIHAI VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA MIHAI
VOD) One of the churches that was moved to make way
for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vod was originally built in 1601.
After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285
metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. QB-6, Str. Sapienei 2, MIzvor.
NEW ST. GEORGES CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHEORGHE NOU) The largest of the churches built in Bucharest
during the reign of Constantin Brncoveanu, New St. Georges
Church was consecrated on June 29th, 1707. It was a wonder
of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and
decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the
painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated
from 1852-3 by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. New and
outstanding interior murals were added by Marian Popp.
Brncoveanu is himself buried at the church, part of which is
currently undergoing renovation.QC-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe,
MPiata Unirii.
TEATRUL NATIONAL
A building in three parts. The original Romanian National Theatre Bucharest was built between 1967 and
1970, to the design of three Romanian architects, Horia
Maicu, Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu. It was designed
to honour (in a somewhat modernist way) the architecture of the famous Maramures wooden churches,
but was unfortunately ruined in 1984-5 when a grey,
concrete, vaguely neo-classical casing was placed over
the earlier structure. That ugly casing, however, was removed in 2011 when the theatres current programme
of renovation began. Now approaching completion, the
colourful red and white building once again looks much
like the construction the original architects envisaged.
Although renovation is not yet fully complete, most of
the theatre is back in business, and there are performances of all sorts in the smaller auditoriums most evenings. The main stage is set to reopen in May.
The odd metallic statue in front of the theatre is
called the Caruta cu paiate, a tribute to Romanias
best loved playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. It features
characters from Caragiales plays, and was unveiled
in December 2010.QC-5, Piata 21 Decembrie 1989
(Universitatii), MUniversitate, www.tnb.ro/en.
PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL (PATRIARHIA) The Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian
Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design
based on the Curtea de Arges near Pitesti, it has undergone a
number of facelifts over the years, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedrals structure is the original, built between
1654 and 1658, although the outstanding bell-tower at the
entrance was built in 1698. Next to the church is the Patriarchal
Palace, residence of the patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox
Church.QC-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii.
RADU VOD MONASTERY (MNSTIREA RADU
VOD)
There was originally a wooden church on this site, built
during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around 1508. The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. The present church - which resembles the Curtea de
Arge, outside Piteti - dates from 1613-4, though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th century, when the frescoes
(the work of peerless painter Gheorghe Tattarescu) were
added. QC-6, Str. Radu Vod 24A, MPiata Unirii.
SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE) The
walled Schitul Darvari is a gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet
in busy central Bucharest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari
and his wife Elena it was originally a private church for their
family. Renovated extensively from 1933-4, a community
of monks lived here continuously from 1835 to 1959, when
they were forced to move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist authorities.QC-5, Str. Schitul Darvari 3,
www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS
ART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTIILOR DE ART) Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. There are presently
some fantastic works on show here, including paintings
by all of Romanias greatest artists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. In terms of artistic importance the
collections here are second only to those at the National
Museum of Art. QB-4, Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021
212 96 41/(+4) 021 212 96 42. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed
Thu, Fri. From May Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Thu, Fri.
Admission 7.00 lei, students/children 3.50 lei.
COTROCENI MUSEUM
Constructed from 1888-93 at the behest of Romanias first
king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the
site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of
which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the
palace was designed by a French team of architects, led
by Paul Gottereau. It served as the Bucharest residence of
the Romanian royal family until 1939. Part of the palace is
open to the public, and can be visited on a tour.QB-dul
Geniului 1, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 317 31 07, www.
muzeulcotroceni.ro. Open 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
Admission 27 lei, students and children 21 lei. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided
tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30.
GEOLOGY MUSEUM First off, there is the museum
building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King
Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of
Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The
museums permanent collections are impressive in size and
- being logically presented - clarity, with a decent number
of English captions. QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 212 89 52, www.geology.ro. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Admission 8 lei, students and children 4 lei. Extra
charge for camera use: 30 lei. Guided tours in Romanian
20 lei, English, French 30 lei.
MORE BUCHAREST IYP

Due to space restrictions, were only able to publish a
fraction of our great Bucharest content. One example
is our feature on Lesser Visited Bucharest. We have
always had a soft spot for those parts of the city that
other guides never reach, and we have now begun to
write about them: read about two of these lesser visited
parts of Bucharest - Bucurestii Noi and Titan - as well
as find a whole host of other great features online at:
April - May 2015
47
Sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
BOOKTOURSROMANIA
Offers a variety of tours of both Bucharest and Romania.
All tours are private and fully customisable, particularly
suitable for couples and small groups. The tours on offer
vary from a one day walking tour of Bucharest to multiple days spent throughout Romania.Qtel. (+4) 0727
03 29 45, www.booktoursromania.com.
CULTURAL TRAVEL & TOURS
CT&T provides tailor-made heritage sightseeing tours of
Bucharest (from 29), a number of themed tours around
Wallachia and Transylvania, and several nationwide
tours of varying lengths. Other flexible services and
guides in a variety of languages are available on request.
QTel./fax (+4) 021 336 31 63, tel. (+4) 0724 71 88 48,
www.cttours.ro.
MR. TRIPP
Mr. Tripp offers a number of terrific tours, not the least
of which is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb
of Vlad Tepes (Dracula). There is also a full-day trip of
Sighisoara, Brasov and Sinaia (79), and they will even
pick you up from, and drop you off back at, your hotel, for free. All entrance fees also included.QC-5, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27 53, www.
traveltobucharest.com.
RAPSODIA TOURS
Offers a full range of tours of Bucharest (including a Bucharest evening tour with dinner) as well as Mogosoaia
and Snagov, and a full day trip to Peles and Bran castles.
There is also a two-day tour of Transylvania.QB-4, B-dul
Nicolae Titulescu 1, tel. (+4) 0744 63 82 92/(+4) 0744
58 67 24.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL
TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA) Often unfairly derided as
an outdated museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets
on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least
not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge
when they first appeared, with some of the older steam
engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century.
The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic
itself: the last remaining pavilion (one of many) built (like
the Carol Park in which it stands) to host the 1906 Romania
in the World Fair. QC-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel.
(+4) 021 336 93 90. Open 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 6 lei, students, children 3 lei.
ROARING ROMANIA Roaring Romania offer a walking tour of Bucharest which lasts around two and a half
hours, taking in all of the citys major sights. A knowledgeable local guide will be on hand to tell you all you
want to know about everything you see. The tour departs at 10:00 and 14:30 from in front of the Atheneum,
opposite the Hilton and costs 15.QTel. (+4) 0730 31 50
96, www.roaringromania.com.
TRANSVISION TransVision runs a number of tours, including a Dracula Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel
and Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is 59/
person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylvania, also
including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price is 159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel with breakfast.
All tours include free pick-up and return from any Bucharest
hotel, as well as an English-speaking guide (other languages
available).Qtel. (+4) 0755 05 26 21, www.transvision.ro.
TRAVELMAKER Escorted group tours from and around
Bucharest, an airport shuttle service and private transfers.
Their half-day tour of the city (29) is an excellent introduction to Bucharest. They also provide hotel accommodation
all over Romania, city break packages and short trips. Offers
the only daily group tour (which anyone can join) to Peles
and Bran Castles for 69 per person.QStr. Elena Vacarescu 9,
bl. XXI-2, tel. (+4) 021 232 03 31, www.bucharestcitytour.
com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
VMS CITYSHUTTLE Offers a number of tours of Bucharest and the surrounding area, as well as the Prahova Valley
and southern Transylvania (including Bran Castle). Prices
start at 25 for a half day tour of Bucharest, and 49 for the
Bran Tour. Trips to the Buzau wineries, Sibiu and Sighisoara
via the Transfagarasan, the Black Sea and Danube Delta on
request.QStr. Nicolae Caramfil 87, et. 6, EKA Building, tel.
(+4) 021 204 77 77, www.cityshuttle.ro. Open 24 hours.
bolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes
with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes. Alas the
small museum that today bears his name has only six of his
paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art.
THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK,

MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY) Theodor Pallady
(1871-1953) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as
Romanias most influential 20th century painter. Schooled
in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Sym48 Bucharest In Your Pocket
Sightseeing
The museums saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik,
it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork
Nazaretoglu.QD-5, Str. Sptarului 22, tel. (+4) 021 211 49
79. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5
lei, students and children 2.50 lei.
PARKS & GARDENS

BOTANICAL GARDENS (GRDINA BOTANIC)
Bucharests rather fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince
Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the
grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their present location in 1884. The gardens today extend over an
area of more than 17 hectares, and host more than 10,000
species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses, recently renovated
and fabulous: kids love the wide variety of strange plants
inside, especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps.QSos.
Cotroceni 32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39,
www.gradina-botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00.
Botanical Museum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00, Sat,
Sun, Closed Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed
Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission to the gardens 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Museum and greenhouses
cost extra: 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
CAROL PARK (PARCUL CAROL I) Designed in 1906
by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, Carol Park
is today dominated by the massive Monument to the
Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism
(it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until
1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe
Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today the site of the
tomb of the unknown Romanian soldier). The park offers
some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, playgrounds,
and a good view of central Bucharest from the monument.
The Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next to the
observatory of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian
Academy is a popular venue for concerts. Close by is the
gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and fafacebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
mous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of the
park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water
tower but now used as offices. QC-7, Calea Serban Vod,
MEroii Revolutiei.
CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRDINA CISMIGIU)
The most central of the citys public gardens, Cismigiu is a
haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Cismigiu was first
designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape
architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until 1860. More
than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from
the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare
garden include the Roman Garden, laid out in the style of
ancient Rome, and including busts of Romanias most famous writers, and the lake, which during the winter can be
skated on.QB-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea
Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu,
MUniversitate.
HERSTRU PARK This glorious park, spread over 187
hectares around Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharests crown, which might explain why half of the city
chooses to spend its Sunday afternoons here. The first thing
you will see when entering the park from Piata Charles de
Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather bizarre statue of de Gaulle
himself. Unveiled in 2006 the statue is the work of local artist Mircea Corneliu Spataru, and was commissioned by the
Ministry of Culture to commemorate Bucharests hosting
that year of the Francophonie conference. Charles de Gaulle
is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the
park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways
and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted
with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae
Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabindranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Grigorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as
writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias
national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured
with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, Sandor Petofi and Victor Hugo. You can hire bikes at the main
entrance: they are free for two hours but you will need to
leave ID.QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.
April - May 2015
49
Old Town
Opera
Novotel
Grand
Continental
stic
Maje
Capitol
Casa
Caps
Cismigiu
Museum of
Bucharest
Z Boutique
K&K
Elisabeta
Coltea Church
& Hospital
Central
Doamnei
Russian
Church
Rembrandt
Mihai Voda
History
Museum
Stavropoleos
Church
Tania
Baratiei
Sf. Dumitru
Old Court Palace
& Church
Cocor
Europa Royale
Domnita
Balasa
Old Town - which most locals call Centru Vechi (Old Centre)
- is a little pocket of 19th and early 20th century Bucharest
which survived both the bombing of World War II and the
bulldozers of Romanias communist planners. It is described
by Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and Piata Universitatii to the
north, Bulevardul IC Bratianu to the east, the river to the
south and Calea Victoriei to the west. Not more than one
kilometre square, the area boasts more restaurants, pubs
and clubs than any other district in the city.
GETTING THERE
You can walk to the Old Town from most parts of the city
centre. Two metro stations serve the area: Piata Universitatii
to the north and Piata Unirii to the south. Note that most
of the Old Towns streets are pedestrianised, with access for

vehicles strictly limited (well, strictly by Romanian standards). There is an underground car park at Piata Universitatii,
accessed via Strada Doamnei. Taxis will usually drop you off
at what is known as La Bariera (at the bottom end of Strada
Selari) or at the National Bank. When leaving the Old Town
always be careful to take an honest taxi: see page seven for
more on taxis in Bucharest.
OLD TOWN WALK

Begin your exploration of Old Town at the four statues in
Piata Universitatii, before heading to the Russian Church
(officially called the St. Nicholas Students Church). From
here, its worth popping along to the National Bank, on the
other side of which is the majestic Pasajul Macca-Villacrosse,
and Strada Lipscani: the street whose name is often used
to describe the whole Old Town area. Then make sure you
head along Strada Stavropoleos to see its architectural
gems: the church which shares its name and the Caru cu
Bere pub and restaurant. Head out on to Calea Victoriei to
take a look at the Zlatari Church, National History Museum
and CEC building before coming back into the Old Town
via Strada Franceza and the Sf. Dumitru Church. At the far
end, in Piata Sf Anton, is the Old Court Palace and Church:
the very raison detre of the entire Old Town area. The Hanul
Manuc is opposite. For more details on all of the sights you
will spot along the way, see the Old Town Sights listings,
which begin on page 63.
Old Town
OLD TOWN CAFES

NEW
CREMERIA EMILIA
Got kids? Want to win some serious parenting points?
Bring them here. Ice creams, sundaes, cakes and biscuits,
all freshly made on the premises. The place itself is great,
with a long, Italian-style counter and seating both up and
downstairs. Not cheap, the ice cream is nevertheless sensational and worth every penny: its the best Bucharest has
ever produced. Make sure you visit and convince yourself
of the fact.QC-6, Str. Franceza 38-42, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0726 67 12 27, www.cremeriaemilia.com. Open
11:00 - 22:00. PGSW
GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH Amazing how quickly this
place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that its ideal at every time of day: morning
coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows,
a casual lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a
late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very
reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is
a winner: you will go back more than once. They do a great
brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00 (way
cheaper than the big hotels) and we should also mention
that van Gogh stays open late at the weekend, offering a
very decent after-party food menu.QC-6, Str. Smardan 9,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71, www.vangogh.
ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. PSW
KLEIN CAFE Good cafe situated on the mezzanine floor

of the Rembrandt hotel; it is the only non-smoking cafe in
the Old Town we believe. They serve a great continental
breakfast until 10am, with a vast selection of croissants,
muffins, Dutch cheeses, meats, yoghurts, cereals and
freshly squeezed orange juice, while throughout the rest
of the day fresh, warm waffles are served with a choice
of toppings. Good hot chocolate, and a wide range of
exotic teas. Nice.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15/(+4) 021 313 93 16, www.
rembrandt.ro. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 24:00. PGSW
LES BOURGEOIS A veritable Strada Smardan legend of
a venue, whose longevity is a credit to its management
who keep rethinking and reinventing the menu and making sure there is always good reason to come and eat,
drink or just have one of over 30 (we counted) coffees
here. Foodwise, there is plenty to choose from: so much in
fact that making individual recommendations is pointless.
Everyone will find something they like. Top desserts, too.
Get in.QC-6, Str. Smardan 20, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 310 60 52/(+4) 0720 13 29 94, www.lesbourgeois.
ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PSW
STARBUCKS HANUL LUI MANUC Starbucks has
been a feature of Bucharests malls for some time now, but
this is the first city centre location, and already its the franchises most popular. Doesnt look much like your average
Starbucks - possibly part of the attraction - it is situated in
April - May 2015
51
Old Town
the historic Hanul lui Manuc, an inn dating from the 19th
century. Rest assured you can still get your hands on a superb Starbucks coffee, however, and all in the company of
the citys trendiest people, who throng here. Its also nonsmoking, unlike just about every other cafe in the city.QC-6,
Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, www.starbucksromania.
ro. Open 08:00 - 23:30. PGSW
OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS:

CABARET
MULANRUJ DINING THEATRE & CLUB Upstairs
at Bordellos is the Mulanruj Dining Theatre, a dinner and
events venue where there is regular cabaret - including
burlesque, magicians and such like - stand-up comedy,
live music and theme parties. Tickets usually include both
the show and an excellent dinner, and there is usually a
wide range of dining options. The food - as you would
expect from the people who run Bordellos - is always excellent. You can get all the details about coming events
direct from Bordellos or the venues Facebook page.QC-6,
Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85,
www.bordellos.ro. Open 19:00 - 24:00. . PEW
FINE DINING
THE ARTIST RESTAURANT Consistently brilliant, this
is food as art. The work of a young Dutch chef, this amazing restaurant is something special. The menu changes
with the seasons, and the homemade truffle turkey sausage is probably our pick of the current menu, alongside
the confit duck leg. For dessert, the chefs take on the
local favourite salam de biscuiti is tremendous. There is a
spoon tasting menu for those who want to try all the main
courses currently being served. In keeping with the food
the restaurant itself is contemporary and upmarket, a mix
of the bright and the simple, chic without ever going over
the top. Prices reflect the high quality.QC-6, Str. Nicolae
Tonitza 13, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71/(+4)
031 106 17 22, www.theartist.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00.
Closed Mon. . PBW
FOOD & DRINK

BURGERBAR Not just another Bucharest burger bar, this
place could well be the Bucharest burger bar. Served with
fantastic, chunky, Belgian-style fries, crispy onion rings, four
homemade sauces and Heinz ketchup they have gone the
extra mile here. The burgers are made on the spot from
fresh ground beef, and there are loads of toppings to choose
from. Your kids will love the mini-burgers. The desserts are
OK too: you havent eaten a fudge in Bucharest until youve
tried the one theyre serving here. Add in funky contemporary decor and you have a place we are more than happy to
recommend.QC-6, Str. Lipscani (Pasajul Selari), MPiata
Universitatii, tel. (+4) 021 313 03 76. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Also at (B-3) Calea Dorobantilor 182,
tel. (+40) 21 233 90 96. . PVSW
EMBASSY HANUL CU TEI Making very good use of

the courtyard of Hanul cu Tei, always one of our favourite
parts of Lipscani, Embassy is lovely lounge on the first
floor of the old han (inn) which serves food and drink to
an older, wiser and simply nicer crowd than many other
places we could mention in Old Town. Good (if a little
pricey) bistro food, decent cocktails and reasonable prices.
For those in the know, this is the sister establishment of
the original Embassy on Piata Lahovari.QC-6, Str. Lipscani
63-65, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 03, www.
embassy-hanulcutei.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. Also at (C4) P-ta Lahovari 8, Open 11:30-03:00. . PSW
FRENCH
CHOCOLAT Hard to pin this place down. Is it a cafe serving chocolate, or a chocolate shop serving a little coffee? In
fact, it is neither. It is a brilliant restaurant serving delicious,
well priced light meals (soups, pasta, salad) of a French and
Italian bent. There is chocolate of course - loads of it - as
well as more kinds of gourmet bread than we could possibly list. Find it next to Caru cu Bere.QC-5, Calea Victoriei
12A, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 03 41 75/(+4) 021
314 92 45, www.chocolat.com.ro. Open 08:30 - 23:30.
Also at (B-3) Str. Radu Beller 13, tel. (+4) 021 230 23 83,
Afi Palace Cotroceni, tel. (+4) 0727 84 68 02 and Baneasa Shoping City, tel. (+4) 0730 60 88 88. . PSW
LA BONNE BOUCHE Does what it does - simple French
bistro food - better than anywhere else in the city. Try the
sublime onion soup, calves liver with sage and garlic mash
and the lemon meringue pie. Look for the chefs specials
too. An open kitchen is always a good sign, and we love the
variety of reading material in the toilets. Just a brilliantly
simple place. Note that they accept Amex cards: not everywhere does in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Franceza 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0731 24 78 76, www.labonnebouche.ro.
Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PESW
CARTURESTI CARUSEL
Bucharests most impressive bookshop is this wonderful building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the latter
part of the 19th century the building was home to a
department store during the communist era, before
standing neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening earlier this year after a long renovation.
And what a renovation: the building has been bought
back to life by Carturestis team of architects and is that
impressive that even if you are not in the market for
any books, you must pop in to have a look. It is also
perhaps the only shop in Bucharest where the staff do
not tell you off for taking photos: indeed, its positively
encouraged. Besides the tens of thousands of books
and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition space,
and a rather good bistro on the top floorQC-6, Str.
Lipscani 55, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 82 89 22,
www.carturesticarusel.ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
April - May 2015
53
Old Town
NOUVELLE VAGUE Small yet perfectly formed French
eatery offering new flavours created by one of Romanias
best chefs. On our visit the highlight of the menu was the
amazing duo of rabbit and foie gras, which was at once
rich yet light. Great desserts, a top wine list - with wine
tastings at least one evening per week - and any number
of reasons to pay a visit. Not cheap but you get full value
for your money.QC-6, Str. Franceza 13, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4).0735 48 94 83, www.nouvellevague.ro. Open
12:30 - 23:30. . PSW
GREEK
MEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It
even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from
empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously,
seriously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous
menu (the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and
cheese are musts), alongside what is some of the best
lamb weve eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice
treat too. The chef, Georgios, is always coming up with
tasty daily specials, so ask your waiter whats cooking.
The house red is a drinkable bargain.QC-6, Str. Nicolae
Tonita 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.
mezetaverna.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. . PESW
INDIAN
LITTLE INDIA It was about time Old Town got itself a
decent curry house, and Little India is it. From the same
people who have been cooking up first class Indian food
at Karishma for more than a decade now, this superb place
has quickly become the talk of Lipscani. Expect a similar
menu to the one at Karishma, including a couple of searing
vindaloos, and a lamb rogan josh to rival that of any Indian
anywhere. Plenty for vegetarians, and the mango shake
is a treat.QC-6, Str. Franceza 7, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0720 78 67 86. Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PVSW
ITALIAN
BEL MONDO A good Italian restaurant, one of the better
ones in the Old Town, which offers decent food - we recommend the fresh tomato soup with mozarella - at prices that
are more than reasonable. The pizzas are excellent (and
huge) and the space itself is big, open, light and blessed
with sensationally high ceilings. Easily the best occupant
of the old Amsterdam Cafe location since Amsterdam itself.
QC-6, Str. Covaci 6, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0725 96 66
36/(+4) 0721 22 02 73, www.restaurantbelmondo.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
TRATTORIA BUONGIORNO
We have always loved Trattoria Buongiorno, and have
quickly become big fans of its most recent location in the
Old Town. Decent Italian food (there is a small but good
selection of fish dishes which are well worth looking out
for, and the pasta is made on the premises). The location
makes it a seriously good place to eat and watch the world
go by. (And at weekends, it can feel like the whole city

is going by).QC-6, Str. Franceza 52, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0733 11 04 64, officebuongiorno.centrulistoric@
citygrill.ro, www.trattoriabuongiorno.ro. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (B-2) Str. Herstru 2;
(B-4) B-dul Lascar Cartagiu 56; Baneasa Shopping Center, 1st floor. . PBSW
LEBANESE
SINDBAD
Lebanese restaurant in Old Town serving what might just
be the best lentil soup in Bucharest. Fabulous fresh bread
too (made on site) and a decent range of mutton dishes as
main courses. Theres both an exterior (at the right time of
year) and interior terrace, and the decor is vaguely Middle
Eastern without over-doing it. We liked the comfy chairs.
QC-6, Str. Lipscani 19, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 317
77 88, www.restaurantsindbad.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
. PVSW
ROMANIAN
CARU CU BERE Should probably be the first stop on the
food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonderful
interiors - painted ceilings, ornate woodwork - make the
place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early for,
the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked apple a
simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather good
beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used to
be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad)
and there is a terrace in summer. We should also mention the touristy but nevertheless enjoyable folklore show
which takes place most evenings. Note that the buildings
facade is currently being renovated. The restaurant remains
open as usual.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28 23 73, www.
carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
. PESW
CITY GRILL
They call these places your dining room in the city, and
given the homely food and cheap prices (the lunchtime
deals are just about unbeatable) they might just be right.
You can expect big portions of delicious, often rather adventurous Romanian food, cooked and presented wonderfully and always served with a smile. We like the carnati
de plescoi, tasty smoked sausages made with mutton and
pork, while there are also no fewer than five types of mici
on the menu. Theres a good selection of local beers to
choose from too. Recently renovated, the place itself looks
better than ever and as a reliable, good value diner its
hard to beat.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 12, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0729 62 62 62/(+4) 021 314 24 89, www.citygrill.ro.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at (C-6)
Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) 0727 62 62 62; (B-2) B-dul Primaverii 3, tel. (+4) 021 233 98 18 and Calea Floreasca
175, tel. (+4) 0727 54 33 33. . PVEBSW
Old Town
Which Old Town venue is closest?
Go to: m.inyourpocket.com
CRAMA DOMNEASCA
Right in the heart of Bucharests historic centre, this is
Romanian food of indeed historic proportions. You can
expect right royal portions of all your Romanian favourites, from spare ribs and mutton to tender pork steaks.
The home baked bread is always served warm (if it is not,
send it back) and the wine flows copiously as evenings get
longer and longer. Its the kind of place where you will be
discretely but contentedly loosening your belt before the
night is done.QC-6, Str. Selari 13-15, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0758 33 30 00, www.cramadomneasca.net. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Mon 14:00 - 24:00. . PESW
HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUCS
INN) Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui
Manuc (Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining caravanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza. A
hostelry ever since it opened the Han has seldom looked
better, and is currently home to two restaurants: Manucs
Bistro (which serves Romanian food: good mici) and Levantin, a Lebanese eatery. There is also a Starbucks cafe, and in
summer the courtyard is packed. Note that if you sit up-
stairs on the balcony you annoyingly need to sit at certain

tables - it is not always clear which - if you want to order
food.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021
313 14 11, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00.
. TEBSW
LACRIMI SI SFINTI
Romanian poet, revolutionary and raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this classy place in
the Old Town. As much a showcase for the (very good)
wines Dinescu produces on his country estate as anything
else, the food is good: a selection of traditional Romanian
dishes with a big focus on game. The prices are decent
enough and the place is charmingly decorated (look out
for the signs for the loos, made from Lego). You will want
to stay way after you have finished your meal.QC-6, Str.
Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99/(+4)
0725 55 82 86, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Open 12:30 02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. . PESW
RUSSIAN
RUSSIAN HOUSE There have been a few attempts at
opening Russian restaurants in Bucharest over the years.
Having paid a visit to this place we can tell you without
a doubt that this is the best yet. Authentic Russian food
(from simple yet delicious pelimeni to more sophisticated dishes such as baked rabbit), plenty of live music
and a fully non-smoking room for those of us who like to
eat without getting a faceful of other peoples cigarette
April - May 2015
55
Old Town
smoke. For that reason alone it has to be worth your time.
QC-6, Str. Doamnei 21, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0730
22 80 90, www.russianhouse.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
. PLEBSW
SEAFOOD
MARIN SEAFOOD GRILL
Brilliant: this place looks as though it belongs in Croatia.
Why go for a kebab when for much the same price you can
get fresh, tasty sardines with grilled veggies? Or a magnificently hot fish soup? Pay a bit more (but still a pittance)
and you can feast on mussels, squid and octopus: the kind
that melts in the mouth. Tiny, it has a covered terrace at
this time of year and a couple of tables inside. If you like
seafood you will love it.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 84 75. Open 14:00 - 03:00, Fri,
Sat 14:00 - 05:00. . SW
STEAK
ORO TORO From the people who brought you Osho
comes this place, a colourful addition to Strada Franceza.
You can expect much the same kind of food as at the original Osho: top burgers, steaks, chicken and pork, as well
as sensational finger food and club sandwiches. There is
usually a bargain set-priced menu at lunchtime. Not to
be missed is the oxtail soup: probably the only place in
the city you will get it cooked exactly as it should be. Gets
clubby as the evening wears on.QC-6, Str. Franceza 3842, MUnirii, tel. (+4) 021438 05 24/(+4) 0744 633 724,
www.orotoro.ro. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PESW
TURKISH
DIVAN
From the Middle Eastern atmosphere and superb decor to
the great service, Divan is a lesson in creating a good restaurant. The well-priced food is good value Turkish/Middle
Eastern, and its very good indeed. They will even cook you
a whole lamb if you give them 24 hours notice. We opted
for the less Sultan-like beef and lamb kebabs. Very good
they were too. After your meal you can enjoy a smoke on
a hookah pipe: theres a huge range of flavours to choose
from.QC-6, Str. Franceza 46-48, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 312 30 34, www.thedivan.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
Also at (C-2) Calea Floreasca 111-113. . PSW
OLD TOWN BARS:

COCKTAILS & QUIRKY
BICICLETA
The name means Bicycle, and it will not take you long to
work out why: the place is by and large furnished and decorated with parts of old bicycles. On the second floor of a
Lipscani house the place boasts a good long bar, plenty
of stools (some of which incorporate old bike seats) and
a couple of leather sofas for those who want something a
bit more comfortable. Coffee by day and cocktails by night

is the order of things, and at the weekend the place has a
DJ and quite frankly rocks. Tour de France? Tour de force.
QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 61
62 98, bicicletabar@gmail.com. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 05:00. PW
LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI A cocktail bar
(there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds
of teas) where everything has been thought out to the minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so you get
your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your fancy in
a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent bar
stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable.QC-6,
Str. Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 52 80
40. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PNW
PAPIOTA Papiota is one of our favourite Bucharest bars.
Packed with odd chairs, tables and industrial bits and
bobs, it could easily have a hipster attitude: Thankfully it
doesnt. Add in the fact that it is a bit bigger than many
Old Town bars and that late on a Friday you stand a chance
of getting in the door and you have a top place. It also has
lots of big windows, the drinks are reasonably well priced
(this is Old Town) and the music is clubby without over- (or
under-) doing it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 43, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 367 27 77, www.papiota.ro. Open 14:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. PBW
Old Town
REHAB BAR An Old Town bar has to be a bit different

these days to grab our attention: Rehab is just that. Its the
kind of place you see anywhere and everywhere, except
in Bucharest. Until now. With cushions on wooden steps
making impromptu seats and a sofa at the window, its
just very different and highly welcome. The drinks menu is
done in the style of a medical journal, and offers the usual
mix of coffee, tea, cocktails and smoothies. For added
quirkiness you get the bill in a sample bottle.QC-6, Str.
Gabroveni 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0726 12 25 52.
Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PW
OLD TOWN BARS: UPMARKET

ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI
You will like this place. A nice long bar, proper tall bar
stools and even leather armchairs for those who want to
chill. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from one of the
best bar menus in Bucharest: you will find something on it
you fancy. There must be 100 lamps hanging down from
the ceiling: all different. Startlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding too: always a bonus these
days.QC-6, Str. Eugen Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0722 93 79 72. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PSW
KLEIN BAR & BISTRO
Bar and bistro inside the Rembrandt hotel. Its a great place
to enjoy a drink with friends, and the location at the edge
of Bucharests newly-formed pedestrian zone makes it a
favourite for those looking for something just a little more
restful. Good bistro food too, and like the hotel itself, everything comes at very reasonable prices. Even acts as an
ad hoc Tourist Info Centre.QC-6, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro.
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. PGW
NOMAD SKYBAR
Those of you expecting to find this skybar up in the Gods
will no doubt be disappointed to find it no higher than
the second floor of an Old Town building. That will be
the only disappointment, however, for this place is ace: a
design sensation making fantastic use of an amazing loft
which does indeed look upon the sky via its mainly glass
roof. There is a range of events, be it live music of various

sorts or DJs spinning tunes, and besides drinks there is a
decent selection of good food. It has been a hit since it
first opened in December and we expect it to stay popular
for some time to come.QC-6, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 44 80 80. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 16:00 - 06:00. PEBW
THE BAZAAR Club Tropicana. Its not every day you see
a palm tree or two in a Bucharest bar, neither are there
too many places in Old Town as big as this: theres upstairs (complete with comfy armchairs), downstairs, and
on warmer evenings everyone spills out on to the street
outside. On one of Old Towns less-crowded streets this
is a good alternative to the madness elsewhere. Music is
loungesque, supplied by a DJ who knows his onions. Fun
and sunshine.QC-6, Str. Covaci 10, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0721 99 99 99, www.thebazaar.ro. Open 10:00 02:30, Fri 10:00 - 04:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 04:30. PW
THE DRUNKEN LORDS Its alright this place: worth
looking out for. In a side street between Lipscani and Blanari, you will find a good, lively pub playing decent music
and offering a vibe a little more upmarket than most other
places in the Old Town (especially those in and around this
little alleyway). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events. Very cool.QC-6, Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.
ro. Open 17:00 - 5:00. PEBSW
OLD TOWN WINE BARS

ABELS WINE BAR
Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar one of the most character-filled streets in the Old Town. This place oozes charm
from every corner, its simple yet striking decor a refreshing
change from some of the more gaudy places in the area.
Stocks a wide selection of terrific wine from all over the
world, and most are available by the glass. Theres also tea,
very good coffee and long drinks. You will love it.QC-6,
Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0371
03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. PSW
April - May 2015
57
Old Town
BRUNO WINE BAR & BISTRO

So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will
be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is
a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good
wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of
simple food, with a regularly changing menu. Top selection of cognac.QC-6, Str. Covaci 3, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 317 17 41/(+4) 0757 55 72 91, www.brunowine.
ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00. PBSW
CORKS COZY BAR
Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side
street which quickly won itself a handy following of admirers and regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough
to tell you why, offering as it does a vast range of wines
from across the world. Almost all of them are available by

the glass. The idea behind this place was to create a wine
bar where anyone - no matter how little they know about
wine - would feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that regard, its a total success.QStr. Bacani
1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro.
Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 04:00, Sun 13:00 24:00. PSW
THOMAS ANTIQUES BAR
Above the Thomas Antiques shop in Old Town is a cafe, tea
house and bar where you can enjoy a hot white chocolate
(or something stronger) while discussing the merits of the
goods youve been admiring. Theres nothing quite like
taking tea on an antique chair you might end up taking
home. Regular events too, from string quartets to book
launches and the like.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0752 44 08 18, www.thomas-antiques.ro.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
PW
OLD TOWN PUBS

BARBERO
A Lipscani bar that we liked the moment we first walked in.
The whole place is brightly tiled and done in the style of
an old barbers shop (as the name might suggest). We love
the red lamps hanging down over the (long) bar, designed
to look like old hair dryers. Good music, usually provided
by a DJ, and well priced drinks.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 38,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 50 80 80. Open 12:00 05:00. PW
BEER OCLOCK
This little pub in Pasajul Villacrosse has probably the
biggest selection bottled beers in the city: so it is aptly
named. With brews from all over the world you could drink
a different beer every night for a month and not try the
same one twice. Whats more, besides the beer they also
have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great attention to details. Tiny, with only a few places to sit, its worth
reserving if you want to be sure of a seat. Note: there is
now a much bigger Beer OClock on Strada Gabroveni further down in Old Town. We prefer the tiny original.QC-6,
Old Town
Pasajul Vilacrosse, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33
35, www.beeroclock.ro. Open 16:00 - 02:00. Also at (C6) Str. Gabroveni 4. Open 17:00 - 02:00. PVSW
BIUTIFUL
When you walk in, you will see where the name comes
from: it is indeed biutiful, an enormous industrial-chic
space with a little added glamour (check out the lights
and the comfy sofas), creating a rather special atmosphere
rather like an upmarket, contemporary central London
bar and grill. The food is more than decent - salads, tapas
and burgers - with the beef and horseradish sandwich a
confirmed winner; The fish and chips wasnt bad either. A
must visit for either drinks or food, preferably both. Note
that they only take reservations up to 19:00, after that its
first come first served.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 6-8, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 29 72 97, www.biutiful.ro. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Mon 17:00 - 01:00. PSW
BORDELLO
There is always something going on here, every night
of the week. From quiz nights and live music to the burlesque every Friday night, this is a one-stop shop for
great nights out. Theres Heineken, Murphys and Paulaner
on tap and Sky Sports on four screens. The food is great,
with some rather special tapas, including the ribs which
are just about the best weve ever had in Bucharest. At the
weekends, head downstairs to the Boudoir, and note that
upstairs is the new Mulanruj Dining Theatre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. You cant miss
this place by the way: just look for the tarts in their underwear beckoning you in.QC-6, Str. Selari 9-11, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.bordellos.ro. Open
11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, Sun
14:00 - 02:00. PESW
EXPAT PUB
Looking to become one of the citys default after-work
and expat venues, this place has plenty going for it, not
least the hands-on owners and the great staff: they clearly
know what an actual pub should look and feel like, which
is nothing less than revolutionary for this city. For instance,
its got a great wooden bar and proper stools so you can
sit at the bar itself. (We are fed up with Bucharest pubs
telling us we cant sit at the bar). Hosting regular events,

from theme parties to karaoke, you will find this place
at the northern edge of the Old Town, at the end of the
little alley that runs from Lipscani to Blanari, opposite the
church.QC-6, Str. Blanari 21, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0729 72 87 82, www.expatpub.ro. Open 19:00 - 07:00.
Closed Mon.
EXPLORERS PUB
A likeable Irish pub on Strada Franceza whose biggest attraction - besides a more than decent pint of Guinness - is
the vast collection of maps on the walls. We also like the
fact that you can sit at the bar on a proper bar stool, while
the selection of food is better - and more varied - than
you would expect to find at your average pub. Very nicely
done indeed.QC-6, Str. Franceza 9, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 0735 19 01 31, www.explorerspub.ro. Open 12:00
- 03:00. PW
LA 100 DE BERI
The name (as you might have guessed) means 100 Beers,
and thats exactly what they have here: beer, and lots of
it, from all over the world. In fact, looking at the menu it
would appear that they stock considerably more than 100
beers, and there is more besides: shorts and cocktails for
those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long, English-style bar
at which you can sit all night and sample as many beers
as you can.QC-6, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
PBW
April - May 2015
59
Old Town
OKTOBERFEST What makes this place so special is

how very ordinary it is. You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a bad thing - and ordinary out
for a drink and a good time locals at that, not the fitze
crowd. The owners try to make something happen every
night, whether its football on the television or impromptu
drinking competitions. The house Oktoberfest beer is
a bargain at 4 lei a glass. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2, which
has a small terrace with heaters at this time of year.QC-6,
Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33,
www.oktoberfest-pub.ro. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-6) Str.
Franceza 3. Open 10:00 - 07:00. PNBW
OLD CITY Very good, always lively pub and club with
regular live music and other events on Lipscani with a huge
beer garden (in the right weather) out the back. Serves a
decent range of very good cocktails (a sweet-as-you-like
mojito went down very well with Mrs. In Your Pocket on
our last visit) and some pub grub that is far better than you
would assume. A big screen shows football and the like,
and it hosts loads of theme nights, from Insane Wednesdays to Champagne Saturdays.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 45,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcitylipscani.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole

of the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a
few survive and no less than four bars have opened here.
This one has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea
Berarilor (Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing
done on the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap
pints, of which the default option is Timisoreana.QC-6, Str.
Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.
curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed
13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBSW
TRUE SOCIAL CLUB In that wonderful location once

known as Temple (on the corner of Strada Selari and Splaiul Independentei) is True Club, an exclusively live music
venue well worthy of your time (its owned and run by two
legends of the Bucharest nightlife scene, who have a track
record of delivering the goods). When the resident covers
band or top local act isnt performing you will find karaoke,
and the sheer variety of themed nights and parties usually
means that there is always something here for everyone.
Drinks are a decent price and there are plenty of them to
choose from.QC-6, Splaiul Independentei (corner with
Str. Selari), MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0727 48 80 87, www.
trueclub.ro. Open , Thu, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Fri 20:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PEW
LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
STUDENT & UNDERGROUND
MOJO
Three level extravaganza of a venue. On the ground floor
is the pub, upstairs is the most popular karaoke venue in
the land, while downstairs in the cavernous cellar there is
live music, and then some. In a nutshell, this place sets the
standard for nights out in Old Town. The beer is a decent
price, the crowd a mix of ages and nationalities and the
manager is a top bloke who makes a point of being nice
to his customers. When ace local bands are not playing,
the resident band usually is. Also now puts on regular quiz
nights and live British stand-up comedy too, and serves
the largest selection of cider in Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0760 26 34 96/(+4)
0746 04 65 60, mihai.paveliu@mojomusic.ro, www.
mojomusic.ro. Open 13:00 - 05:00. PEW
BASTARDS Is that really what it is called? Yes: that is really what it is called. In a Lipscani basement, with the walls
stripped back to the red brick, this is a cocktail bar and club
where the mood is different every night. It could be karaoke, it could be rock night, it could be a DJ spinning old
school electro tunes. Regardless of what is going on you
will probably enjoy it.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 28, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 20 34 63, www.bastards.ro. Open
20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PENB
OLD TOWN BEERHALL
CLUB A Selling the cheapest beer in the Old Town, this

place is a legend. If you want a local, unpretentious, upfor-a-laugh studenty crowd getting down to classic songs
that you wont have heard for ages, this is the one place
in town you can be guaranteed to find it, every night of
Old Town
the week. Live music on most weekend nights, as well as

all sorts of events during the week, from theme nights
to theatre.QC-6, Str. Blnari 14, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 021 316 16 67, www.cluba.ro. Open 10:30 - 05:00,
Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 04:00.
PEBW
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past
year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has become a bigger, brighter and less smokey venue than ever
before. Still plays mainly rock for a crowd of the young and
not-so-young, and to be honest it is as good as ever. We
have always liked the place and if you want to go local
it is one of your better options in the Old Town. There is
also now Fire Pub out the back (although the entrance is
from Strada Covaci): a small yet rather good boozer with
a huge and very nice covered terrace/atrium.QC-6, Str.
Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04,
www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00.
PBSW
UPMARKET CLUBS
CLICHE CLUB & LOUNGE Eternally popular club on
Strada Smardan which has become something of an Old
Town institution over the past couple of years. A modern
and elegant place serving coffee and cocktails the music
caters pretty much to all tastes and there is always soem
kind of party going on, not the least of which is Friday
night, when the place is rammed full of party people.
Open all day too, it has a terrace (or will, when the weather
allows), it shows loads of live football and the comfy sofas
for crashing on a bonus.QC-6, Str. Smardan 41, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0729 05 62 54, www.clubcliche.ro. Open
10:00 - 05:00. PEBSW
FINNISH COCKTAIL & CLUB A little more chic and upmarket than most other places in the Old Town, Finnish is
a cocktail bar and club which brings a little contemporary
Scandinavian design to the Romanian capital. The house
drink is of course Finlandia vodka, available in more varieties than you ever thought possible, but there is more to this
place than vodka: cocktails, wine, champagne and beer. They
even have Guinness on draught. The music - usually provided
by a DJ - is as contemporary and as good as the design, the
crowd is a trendy one and we defy you not to enjoy yourself
here.QC-6, Str. Selari 28, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0753 57
82 09, www.finnish.ro. Open 13:30 - 05:00. PBW
LA MUSE Last time we popped in we met up with almost
everyone we know in Bucharest. Thats the kind of place
this is: on the surface it looks posh and flash and out-ofyour-league (the lady at the entrance clutches a clipboard
as though her life depends on it) but it is in fact a downto-earth, come-as-you-are venue playing dance floor hits
from across the decades to a crowd a bit older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the drinks. We love
it.QC-6, Str Lipscani 53, MPiata Unirii/Universitate,
tel. (+4) 0734 00 02 36, www.lamuse.ro. Open 09:00 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PBW
April - May 2015
61
Old Town
LATE NIGHT FOOD

CALIF Besides serving decent standard kebabs, Calif
prides itself on also offering more than a few healthy
options, as well as a number of vegetarian kebabs and
dishes They also do what we will happily admit is a very
good lentil soup.QC-6, Str. Selari 19, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+40) 21 310 15 62, www.calif.ro. Open 24hrs.
CHICKEN STAFF KFC on the ground floor of Unirea
closes at 23:00, so instead get yourself here for your
late night/early morning chicken fix. They do superb
pui la rotiserie: tasty chicken roasted slowly over a spit.
QC-6, Str. Smardan 31, MPiata Unirii. Open 11:00
- 05:00.
DRISTOR KEBAP Legendary chain of kebab shops,
which began in Dristor but has now spread city wide,
even in to Old Town.QC-6, Str. Franceza 17, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 315 55 40, www.dristorkebap.
ro. Open 24 hrs. Also at (C-7) B-dul Marasesti 42,
Calea Vacaresti 391, B-dul Camil Ressu 1 and B-dul
Timisoara 26.
GYROS THESSALONIKI In our opinion, this place
serves the best chicken kebab in Bucharest. Its a regular late-night haunt of ours and the queues speak for
themselves. Alongside the kebabs there are also salads, lamb dishes and sweets. Cheap too: its a winner.
QC-6, Str. Gabroveni 2, MPiata Unirii. Open 24hrs.
MCDONALDS The good news is McDonalds has
finally brought breakfast to Romania, so that much
sought-after Sausage and Egg McMuffin can now be
yours at most central Bucharest McDonalds outlets.
But only until 10:00, alas. We do wish they would serve
them all day.QC-6, P-ta Unirii 1 (Unirea Shopping
Centre), MPiata Unirii, www.mcdonalds.ro. Open
07:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. McDrive at (A-4)
Str. Dr. Felix 8-10, (E-6) Sos. Mihai Bravu 307, Sos.
Pierre de Coubertine 3-5, (C-3) Str. Barbu Vacarescu
146-158 and Str. Brasov 23A all open 24hrs.
THE VAULT Smooth. Smooth people, smooth vibes and

smooth cocktails. We love the (long) nights we spend in
this place, not least because you never know what to expect on the music front: it could be a night of pop, a night
of disco classics, a night of indie beats or a night of up-tothe-minute clubby sounds. We suggest you take a chance
and delve inside. Chances are you will enjoy yourself.QC6, Str. Lipscani 29-33, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0723 19
99 77. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
PNBW
OLD TOWN SIGHTS

BANCA NATIONALA A ROMANIEI
The National Bank (BNR) stands on the site of one of the
most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban
Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various
things, from a pub, to an inn, to a dormitory for a nearby
girls school. After two fires gutted the building however,
the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR,
completed to the designs of French architects Cassien
Bernard and Albert Galleron in 1885. The building boasts a
facade with Corinthian columns, and an ornate, enormous
central banking hall.QC-6, Str. Lipscani 25, MUniversitate.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ISTORIE)
The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900 to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It originally served (until
1970) as the headquarters of Pota Roman, the Romanian
postal service. The museums exhibitions are spread over
60 display rooms, although the vast majority are currently
closed for renovation. The museums two most important
collections, however, are very much open: the Lapidarium
and the Romanian Treasury. The Lapidarium includes statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present
day Cernavoda and a full-scale replica of Trajans Column.
The Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of
the Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown
Jewels. The bizarre statue on the museums steps allegedly
represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf.QC-5, Calea
Old Town
Latest Bucharest events:
MOJO CLUB - 3 LEVELS OF FUN
facebook.com/
bucharestinyourpocket
Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.
mnir.ro. Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei.
OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH (PALATUL I BISERICA CURTEA VECHE) The Old Court, first built on
this site in the second part of the 15th-century by Vlad
epe, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this
time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu. The palace
was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th
century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of
what remains today was uncovered during archaeological
digs that took place from 1967-72, when the palace ruins
were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of
the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the
voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics
found on the site are exhibited. The whole complex is set
to be restored this year. Next door to the palace is the Old
Court Church dating from 1545. It was enlarged in 1715,
during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes
inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Miu
Papa, were added in 1847.QC-6, Str. Franceza, MPiata
Unirii. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
STAG NIGHTS
As much as the city has tried to ignore the fact, Bucharest is quickly becoming a popular destination for that
scourge of Europes capitals: the stag night. Drawn by
cheap flights and the giveaway prices of drink and cigarettes, the Romanian capital - which managed to stay
off the stag radar for quite some time - finally appears
to have succumbed. While this is in general no bad
thing (stag parties spend as much money as any other
visitors to Bucharest, in many cases much more) not
all locals are happy about the influx, and that includes
a surprising number of bar, pub and club managers:
it might be worth phoning ahead to see if 25 blokes
in matching t-shirts will actually be welcome at your
venue of choice. Whats more, a number of seedy strip
and nightclubs (often little more than poorly disguised
brothels) have popped up in the Old Town like mushrooms after the rain, all hankering after the drunken
pound of the leery stag night reveller. Beware them all:
these places are rarely legitimate businesses and will
often part you of as much cash as you are carrying. If
you do have to indulge in what might be described as
clothes off activities head for a massage parlour (and
read the Vice Advice we publish on page 40).
KARAOKE EVERY NIGHT!

MORE SPORTS THAN SPORTS BARS
ALL MAJOR SPORTS
LIVE BANDS EVERY WEEKEND
FIND US ON GABROVENI 14
TEL: 0760263496
WWW.MOJOMUSIC.RO
PASAJUL MACCA-VILACROSSE
Today packed with cafes - most of which offer hookah
pipes and exotic tobaccos - Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse
was built in 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei then the busiest street in the city - and the National Bank.
It is named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who
from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the buildings architect, Felix
Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass roof to
allow natural light, also intended to encourage commerce
at street level. In other words, this was Bucharests first
shopping mall.QC-6, Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse; Calea
Victoriei, MUniversitate.
STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAVROPOLEOS) The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which
the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside has
a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th
century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.QC-6, Str. Stavropoleos 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47, www.stavropoleos.ro.
ST. DUMITRU CHURCH (BISERICA SF. DUMITRU
DE JURAMANT)
Currently being fully renovated (and as such covered in
scaffolding) the St. Dumitru Church (Biserica Sf. Dumitru)
dates back to the 15th century. It was destroyed in the
Great Fire of 1847 and the current building dates from 1852
April - May 2015
63
Old Town
THE 1977 EARTHQUAKE
At 21:22, on the evening of March 4, 1977, Bucharest was
hit by an earthquake measuring a whopping 7.3 on the
Richter scale. It lasted for almost a minute, during which
time almost every building in the Romanian capital shook
wildly. More than 1,500 people were killed by the quake,
including comedian Toma Caragiu, at the time the most
popular actor in the country.
Located close to a major fault line, Bucharest has
been shaken by a number of major earthquakes over
the years. In 1940, more than 300 people died in the
first major quake of the modern era. Though few other
buildings were fully destroyed, many were damaged,
and it was the failure to consolidate these buildings effectively that led to the even worse carnage of 1977.
Romanias then president, Nicolae Ceausescu, was
in Lagos when told of the earthquake. He was initially
informed that the entire city of Bucharest had been destroyed: the fact that the citys electricity supply had been
completely cut off made communication difficult. It was
only towards midnight that partial electricity was restored.
Ceausescu declared a state of emergency and a
plane was sent to bring him home. His general conduct
during the days that followed he ordered the search
for survivors to continue after the usual cut-off point
and appeared to be a genuinely calming influence on
the shaken population is widely considered to be
one of the few commendable moments of his entire
dictatorship. There was certainly great political capital
to be made out of the earthquake. The state-run media
reported at great length how the countrys emergency
systems had functioned perfectly (they hadnt: there was
a shortage of hospital beds for victims) and that though
much international help had been offered, little was
needed and little had been taken. In fact, almost all the
aid that poured in, from specially-trained search dogs to
food and drinking water, was gratefully accepted by the
desperate Romanian authorities.
The earthquake changed the face of Bucharest forever. More than 40 apartment blocks were totally destroyed, as well as hundreds of houses. Yet the regime
used the very real need to rebuild and consolidate the
city as a means to stamp Ceausescus vision of what a
socialist city should look like on the Romanian capital.
In many regards, the Centru Civic, and Casa Poporului,
had their genesis in the plans drawn up after the 1977
earthquake.
If there was a silver lining to the cloud that was the
1977 earthquake, it was in the introduction of strict
new construction guidelines: all buildings that have
been raised since are thus said to be earthquake-proof.
However, consolidation of buildings damaged in 1940
and 1977 has still not been fully carried out. As such, a
number of buildings in the city centre display a red disc,
declaring them to be at great risk of falling in Bucharests
next big earthquake.
but it has undergone numerous renovations due to damage from earthquakes. St. Dumitru is the patron saint of
Bucharest.QC-6, Str. Postei 2, MPiata Unirii.
ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH (BISERICA SFANTUL
NICOLAE - BLANARI) The church was built in the
1880s as a private chapel for Romanias first royal couple:
Note that the king and queen still have special seats on
the left and right of the churchs 18th century icon kept
for them should they ever return.QC-6, Str. Blanari 16,
MUniversitate.
ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS CHURCH (SFNTUL
NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENILOR) Built in 190509 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this very Russian-looking church is topped with
seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with
an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis
(catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin.QC-5, Str. I. Ghica
9, MUniversitate.
STRADA LIPSCANI & HANUL CU TEI
Strada Lipscani gets its name from the large number of
traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought
from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest
trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name
to the whole area. Ironically, its name and history aside,
modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although
it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a
theatre. About two thirds of the way along Str. Lipscani is
the Hanul cu Tei, a wonderful courtyard (once part of a
large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops,
second-hand book shops, gift shops, studios and portrait
artists, as well as a lively pub/restaurant, and an excellent
souvenir shop.QC-6, Str. Lipscani, MUniversitate.
UNIVERSITATE
The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata Universitatii
which are in many ways the entrance to the Old Town
were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters of Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them are four
statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the first
Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu
(a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai
Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three
Romanian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician, astronomer and politician who as education
minister in the 1880s and 1890s created the foundations
of the modern Romanian education system). Opposite
is the university building itself, constructed over from
1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the
time Prince of Romania. The central corp of the building
was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was destroyed
during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though rebuilt as an
exact replica of the original, many sculptures and basreliefs
by Carol Storck were deemed irreplaceable and lost forever.
QC-5, Piata Universitatii, MUniversitate.
Shopping
NEW LOCATION
book launches, readings and childrens activities.QB-4,

Piata Romana 5, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 315 43
14, www.librariabastilia.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 20:00.
SALA DALLES Bookshop with a large exhibition space
out back that often hosts book and gift fairs.QC-5, B-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 18, MUniversitate. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
SHOPPING CENTRES
AFI PALACE COTROCENI One of Bucharests biggest
malls, and probably its best, with loads of top brand names
and the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice
skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller
coaster and childrens funfair.QB-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul
Timisoara, MPolitehnica, www.aficotroceni.ro. Open
10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
30, Pictor Barbu Iscovescu Street

1st District, 011938 Bucharest
t +4021 212 51 71, f +4021 212 51 54
bonjour@labibliotheque.ro
www.labibliotheque.ro
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres

and malls listed below, as well as B-dul Magheru and increasingly - Calea Victoriei.
BOOKSHOPS
ANTHONY FROST ENGLISH BOOKSHOP Stocks a
good range of fiction and non-fiction, plenty of childrens
books, and a decent selection of books about Romania
and Bucharest.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 311 51 38, www.anthonyfrost.ro. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
CRTURESTI Marvellous bookshop, gallery and small
cafe, all inside a gorgeous old Bucharest house in the very
centre of the city. During the summer, the superb Verona
Garden out the back is a good choice for lunch, dinner or
just drinks.QC-5, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
BANEASA SHOPPING CITY The largest mall in Bucharest. With more than 220 shops it makes everywhere else
look quite small. Just past the old Baneasa airport you can
get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata Romana.Qos.
Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, www.baneasashoppingcity.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Restaurants Open 10:00 -23:00.
BUCURESTI MALL Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place - when opened in 1999 - was the first
mall in the city. Loads of shops, including Marks & Spencer
and H&M.QE-7, Calea Vitan 55-59, www.bucurestimall.
com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PROMENADA MALL Opened in October 2013, this is currently Bucharests most talked-about mall. Featuring the usual
mix of top stores, restaurants there is also a rooftop recreation
area (pictured below), but no cinema.QCalea Floreasca 246B,
MAurel Vlaicu, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE A good shopping centre in the heart of the city. There are fashion stores on the
first and second floors with electronics and kids shops on
floors three and four. An excellent Mega Image supermarket can be found in the basement.QC-6, Piata Unirii 1,
MPiata Unirii, www.unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
HUMANITAS KRETZULESCU Large bookshop selling a wide range of both Romanian and foreign language
books.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, www.
libhumanitas.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
LIBRARIA BASTILIA
On Piata Romana, in a huge villa dating from 1913 this is
a fine bookshop with a cafe in the attic. Regularly hosts
April - May 2015
65
Shopping
LA BIBLIOTEQUE
BURBERRY
A beauty salon and library, housed in one of the most

glorious villas in the city. It sounds as though it shouldnt
really work, but it does, thanks in the main to terrific
design and a great community of people and friends
that has quickly grown up around the place. Its popular
for book launches and the like. QB-3, Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu 10, tel. (+4) 021 212 51 71/(+4) 0749 77 77 77,
www.labibliotheque.ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PW
The legendary British label Burberry has landed in Bucharest, having opened a flagship store at the Radisson Blu. QB-4, Str. Luterana 4, tel. (+4) 021 314 14
14, ro.burberry.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
MARKETS
Bucharest is home to a number of good markets, most of
which stock a wide range of produce, at prices often (but
not always) cheaper than the supermarkets. There are very
good produce markets at Piata Norilor (a short walk from
Tineretului metro station) and Obor (E-4; see the feature
box on page 28). Beyond the produce markets there are
a couple of bazaar-type places worth visiting, not least
Complex Comercial Rahova, a place that stocks cheap
everything. Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (almost)
the end of the line to find it. Then there is Targul VitanBarzesti, which every Sunday morning becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea market. Its mayhem. More
or less everything you can imagine can be found here, all
prices negotiable. Bus No. 123 from Piata Unirii will get you
there. Be brave.
SOUVENIRS
MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MUSEUM) The shop at the Peasant Museum has an outstanding
selection of souvenirs and gifts. Of particular note are the
traditional peasant clothes, as well as the icons and naive
art.QB-3, os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021
317 96 61. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
PAIDEIA Wonderful local gifts, including books, posters,
greetings cards, objets dart and even Romanian delicacies,
from refined palinca to gourmet salts and honey.QB-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 2-4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate, www.cadouriculturale.ro. Open 10:00 - 16:00.
Also at (C-6) Unirea Shopping Centre (Ground Floor).
SECOND CHANCE A wide range of good Romanian
souvenirs handmade by people from disadvantaged
backgrounds.QSos.Bucuresti-Ploiesti 42D (Baneasa
Shopping City), tel. (+4) 0726 17 36 43, www.romaniahandmade.ro. Open 10:00 - 22.00.
SOUVENIR SHOP Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop and more besides. We came across the
best Dracula T-Shirts weve seen so far here, complete with the
slogan: Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great.QC-5,
Str. Smardan 13, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0722 32 25 40,
www.souvenir-shop.com.ro. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WINE
DIONYSIS Super little place on the edge of the Old Town.
Its a wine bar and shop where you can find a fine selection
of self-imported wines, tasting them all at one of the big
wooden tables before you buy. You can also just pop in for
a glass or two, although in our experience once weve sat
down at this charming place we tend not to get up again
until closing time.QC-6, Str. Covaci 19, MPiata Unirii, tel.
(+4) 021 31 00 580. Open 14:00 - 22:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00
- 01:30.
ETHIC WINE Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly
Englishman and his lovely wife, both of whom really know
their stuff. There is a wide range of local grape, as well as
a good selection of wines from Cricova in the Republic of
Moldova.QC-3, Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722
63 37 89, www.ethicwine.ro. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Mon
15:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
THE WINERY OUTLET Bucharest outlet of the excellent Halewood Winery. You will find some of the best wines
produced in Romania sold here.QSos. Mihai Bravu 132,
tel. (+4) 021 252 10 32, www.halewood.com.ro. Open
09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30.
VINEXPERT There is always something worth spending
your money on here, whether its the latest vintage from
Cricova, or more prosaic delights such as Unicum (Vinexpert being one of the few places in Romania where we
have found said liqueur). Will deliver.QD-6, B-dul Octavian Goga 24, tel. (+4) 021 327 49 74, www.evinoteca.
ro. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-6) Unirea
Shopping Center (P-a Unirii 1).
LOCAL DESIGNERS
For clothes by local designers, check out the huge Romanian Designers Gallery on the second floor of the
Cocor Department Store, at (C-6) B-dul Ion Bratianu
29-33. You will find a wide range of designs by many of
Romanias best designers. Another option is Band of
Creators at (C-5) Str. Benjamin Franklin 14 (www.bandofcreators.com).

April - May 2015
67
Hotels
With the exception of the five-star hotels listed in the

Cream of the Crop category, the price bands used refer to
the rack rate for a double room.
options.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) 021 224 00

34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164 rooms.
PTHRUFGKDCW
CREAM OF THE CROP
EPOQUE
Now heres a hotel we have no problem in recommending.
Opened during the Autumn of 2010 the Epoque has a number of things going for it, not least its location on the edge
of Cismigiu Park: close enough to the heart of the city yet at
the same time offering the impression of a retreat. Rooms
are large and tastefully furnished, there are plenty of extras
(not least a plunge pool), breakfast is good and for what you
get, the prices are a steal.QB-5, Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C,
tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.hotelepoque.ro. 44 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKDCW
ATHENEE PALACE HILTON

Simply put, this has been one of Bucharests finest hotels
for 100 years. It is a living piece of the citys history - it dates
from 1914 and celebrates its centenary this year - and yet
behind its historic facade you will find a most modern
place to stay. There is a wide range of rooms to choose
from: the best are those with views over Piata Revolutiei.
Indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite dining and of
course this is the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most famous bar.QC-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. 272 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST
Contemporary and welcoming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassuring global standards you would
expect of the brand, from first class accommodation to
world class facilities. With a renowned reputation for
individual and friendly service, the hotel can also offer
the greenest setting in the capital, surrounded as it is by
beautifully maintained grounds. Can also boast a large
swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms (and bathrooms
to match) and some outstanding drinking and dining
BUCHAREST MONOPOLY
We have long said that this should be the first thing on
any list of must-have Romanian souvenirs. The classic
board game has been given a local twist, the streets of
London (or whichever other city you are familiar with)
replaced with the streets of Bucharest. The cheapest
property on the board is Rahova, while the most expensive is Bulevardul Primaverii. Found in most good
toy shops and hypermarkets, it sells for around 90 lei.
GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL

Making the very best of a wonderful building (which dates
from 1886) on chic Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel
Continental is the result of more than two years of loving
renovation and restoration. Theres marble at every turn,
though do not think that modern touches are missing, for
they are not. The audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state of the art. For the great location and for
a change from the big chains, its well worth trying out.
QC-5, Calea Victoriei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372
01 03 00, www.grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
HOWARD JOHNSON GRAND PLAZA BUCHAREST HOTEL This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre
of Bucharest, where the sleek, modern exterior is matched
by the interiors, all of which carry the signatures of topname designers. The breakfast is perhaps the best in the
city, coming as it does with complimentary champagne,
and the dining opportunities in general here are excellent: there is a wonderful (if expensive) Japanese restaurant, Benihana, on site. Great views of the city from the
upper floors. Note that the Howard Johnson is set to become a Sheraton later this year.QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor
5-7, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.
hojoplaza.ro. 285 rooms. POTHR6UFL
GKDW
Hotels
INTERCONTINENTALStill the tallest hotel in Bucharest
(complete with a swimming pool and - during the summer, sun terrace - on the top floor) the InterContinental
was the first major five star hotel to open in Romania, at
the beginning of the 1970s. Today it is one of many but remains something of a first choice for journalists and business people, many of whom have been loyal guests for
decades. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great
views of the city, there is first class dining in the building,
and the management is commendably hands-on. The
new Club Lounge on the 21st floor is the best in the city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting rooms,
internet, a library and an all round exclusive atmosphere.
Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 35 per day.QC5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
021 310 20 20, www.intercontinental.com/bucharest.
257 rooms. POTHR6FLGKDCW
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL
To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
something of a palatial building that at first glance probably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucharests big five star hotels. The scale of the place, and
its cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as
part of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself.
Yet the rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing
a welcome contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining
options, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the
city (we think).QB-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4)
021 403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 401
rooms. POTHR6UFLGKDCW
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE
Few locations are better than this, right on fashionable
Calea Victoriei. The entrance is impressive: a replica of the
old neoclassical National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the British bombed it to next week during
the Second World War. Shiny and new the main part of
the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with bathrooms
particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby bar and a
big indoor swimming pool are other added benefits of
staying here.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258 rooms.
POTHR6UFLGKDCW
LOCAL ART
Look out for craft fairs being held at the citys better museums in order to find some gorgeous naive art. The Peasant
Museum hosts regular such fairs, usually once a month.
Suvenir de Bucuresti, a small art gallery specialising in
classic scenes of Bucharest always has a great selection
of paintings for sale: find it on (C-5) Strada Academiei.
Galateca on (C-5) Strada C. A. Rosetti is a gallery of applied art, housed in the rather splendid University Library on Piata Revolutiei. Its shop sells fashion and accessories from a number of top local designers.
PREMIER PALACE South-west of the city centre in
the suburb of Ghencea (opposite Steaua Bucharests stadium) is the Premier Palace, a luxurious place which offers what is without doubt the best spa in the city (and
entrance to which is free for hotel guests). The rest of the
hotel is fabulous too, with the big rooms all packed with
added extras, right down to the Salvatore Ferragamo
cosmetics in the bathroom. Staff are superb and happy
to arrange taxis to and from town.QB-dul Ghencea 134,
tel. (+4) 031 407 60 00, www.premierpalace.ro. 82
rooms. PTHFLGKDCW
PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at
this high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms
boast perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are
separate showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in
Bucharest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed,
and though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre
with sauna and massage available.QA-1, P-ta Montreal
10, tel. (+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com.
203 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDW
RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei,
the Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes
you as daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are
April - May 2015
69
Hotels
equally avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs
and showers, and there is both an indoor and outdoor
pool, so you can swim whatever the weather. Excellent
restaurants, especially the sublime Prime Steaks and Seafood.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00,
www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bucharest. 718 rooms.
PHRUFLGKDCW
OVER 150
CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest (there
is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by Vama Veche).
In a fantastic location right in the heart of the city, millions have
been spent making the hotel look better than at any time in
its century-old history. The contemporary rooms - all of which
are in fact suites - are enormous, many even boasting kitchens. Theres a fitness centre, wifi throughout, a great breakfast
is included and there is even onsite parking. Worth every
penny.QC-5, B-dul Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 031 403 05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
NH BUCHAREST Not located in the most attractive
area of the city, the NH makes up for that by offering a
modern, contemporary hotel experience for a fair amount
of money: you can usually stay here for far less than the
rack rates. Expect well sized rooms with plenty of extras
and a very good on site restaurant. Good place to stay
with children and babies: the staff make a point of mak-
ing them feel welcome.QD-6, B-dul Mircea Voda 21, tel.

(+4) 021 300 05 45, www.nh-hotels.com. 76 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
MERCURE Romanias first Mercure hotel opened in early
November 2014 in a great location just behind the Atheneum. The rooms are well-sized, superbly decorated and
come with loads of extras, from espresso machines to fluffy
bathrobes. And all at a very reasonable price. Free Wifi
throughout, and the building itself is an elegant, modern
construction with a striking, sublime mural on one side.
QB-5, Str. George Enescu 17A, tel. (+4) 0758 58 30 00,
www.mercure.com. 114 rooms. PTHFLKW
RAMADA BUCHAREST PARC
The Hotel Parc has been around a while, but only came
under the Ramada banner a short while ago. A high-rise
in a leafy suburb (close to Romexpo and Herastrau Park
- hence the name) it boasts nice rooms which - while not
huge - are comfortable and boast brightly coloured dcor
and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets on the beds. Great buffet
breakfast included in the price.QA-1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5,
tel. (+4) 021 549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro.
267 rooms. PHRGKW
RAMADA MAJESTIC Standing (dare we say it) majestically on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one of
Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus - a
Hotels
swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in which

even some of the five star hotels lack pools, the Majestics
makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QB-4, Calea
Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 27 72,
www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 rooms. PTHRU
FLGKDCW
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST
Slightly more upmarket than its sister establishment
across the road, what you get here is a slightly bigger
room than at the Parc, and much bigger bathrooms. The
design of the place is nicely futuristic, and we loved the
beds which we think are amongst the best in Bucharest.
Free Wifi is a bonus, there is a good lobby bar and a decent on site bistro.QB-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021
549 30 00, www.ramadaplazabucharest.ro. 298 rooms.
PHRUFGKW
100-150
ANGELO AIRPORTHOTEL BUCHAREST The hotel
closest to Bucharests Otopeni airport. The Angelo is operated by Vienna International Hotels & Resorts, and its bright
exterior is matched by the interior: bold colours abound in
all the rooms and the common areas. There is high speed
Wifi throughout, and a fitness centre complete with sauna.
Transport to and from the airport is complimentary. Great
buffet breakfast. QCalea Bucurestilor 283, tel. (+4) 021
203 65 00, www.angelo-bucharest.com. 177 rooms.
PTHR6UFLGKDW
CAPITAL PLAZA
Smart place at the northern edge of the city centre, about
five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei. The rooms are big
and furnished in a modern style, with unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good, and the range
of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite restaurant
too, the 1880.QB-4, B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara 54, tel.
(+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95 rooms.
PTHRUFLGKW
DUKE
Now this place is central. A proverbial stones throw from
Piata Romana, this modern hotel is squeezed in to a tight
spot between two classic Bucharest buildings of the past.
Rooms are well-sized, bathrooms have tubs and showers,
and theres free and fast Wifi throughout. Beds get high
marks for their excellent mattresses.QC-4, B-dul Dacia
33, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 41 86, www.
hotelduke.ro. 37 rooms. PRGKW
RESIDENCE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Fantastic hotel in
a good area of the capital, offering large, excellent value
rooms and super services. There are little touches of
class all over the hotel that suggest they really care. The
wrought iron beds, for example, are fabulous, as is the
newly added spa, complete with sauna and jacuzzi. The
restaurant is also worth a visit, serving good international
cuisine.QA-3, Str. Clucerului 19, tel. (+4) 021 223 19 78/
(+4) 0372 15 07 00, www.residencehotels.com.ro. 35
rooms. PTHRLGKDW
April - May 2015
71
Hotels
The surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business district is just across the street. There is free wifi at the Caro
Golf.QC-1, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel Vlaicu,
tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188 rooms.
PTH6UFLKDCW
CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square metre. Close to the airport this place is perfect if you have an early
flight, though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes
or so to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match
anywhere, and at very low prices, we doubt anyone will be
complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352
87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTRLGW
DAN Serving a terrific buffet breakfast (until 11:00) this
hotel has long been one of our favourites. Its location a
short distance from the city centre is good, and the rooms
are well sized, as are the bathrooms: all of which have
tubs, not just showers. Good, friendly staff and the kind of
homely atmosphere you would expect of a small well-run
hotel.QB-4, B-dul Dacia 125, tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58,
www.hoteldan.ro. 15 rooms. PHRULGW
RESIDENCE DOMENII PLAZA A wonderful villa, this

place offers real luxury and a quiet, understated atmosphere. Its a classy place for classy people, basically. All the
rooms, studios and apartments are bright, big and have
stunning bathrooms. It also has a fantastic spa, complete
with sauna, steam bath and enormous jacuzzi, perfect for
tired business types in need of evening relaxation. The food
in the restaurant is outstanding.QA-2, Str. Al. Constantinescu 33, tel. (+4) 021 224 50 44, www.residencehotels.
com.ro. 33 rooms. PTHRLGKDW
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON Located just off Bulevardul

Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass and
steel in an area not known for anything except monumental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place offer-
UNDER 100
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO A nice place on a
quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre
to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the
decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and effort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and
covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs,
good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost a
lot more than it does: seriously good value for money.QC5, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68, www.
hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
CARO The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro
Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms,
the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and
the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop. All
three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and
there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant.
Hotels
OLD TOWN HOTELS

EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST The Europa Royale
is a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from
where Bucharest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata
Unirii, it is as ideally located as you ever hope for. Inside
the rooms are big, classy and we found the staff exemplary. QC-6, Str. Franceza 60, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4)
021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.com. 92 rooms.
PTH6UGKW
REMBRANDT The Rembrandt is what happens when
people with taste renovate buildings in Old Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs unsurprisingly to the same people). Luxurious without overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors and
period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-minute
technology.QC-5, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, fax (+4) 021 313 93 16, www.
rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms. PTRUGKW
TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in the
very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the
citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy,
and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The
best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised
sleeping area. Theres free internet for guests.QC-6, Str.
Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 27 58, www.
taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PRGKW
ing big-ish rooms, with commendably big bathrooms.

Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always found in
Bucharests hotels. Good cafes (there are two) to choose
from: one has a covered terrace.QD-7, Str. Nerva Traian
3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87
rooms. PTHRUFLGKDW
GOLDEN TULIP TIMES This, people, is a very good hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively small
amount of money. All come furnished well with terrific beds,
big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout and a host
of extras: not least of which is the fantastic breakfast. The
on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-based eateries in
the city.QE-6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4)
021 316 65 16,, www.goldentuliptimes.com. 70 rooms.
PTHRLGKW
GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST
Half-way along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata
Victoriei and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for example are not huge but feel far bigger than
they are, and all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright
and modern in design we think its suited best to business
travellers looking to get great value for their companys
dollar.QB-4, Calea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 021 212 55 58, www.goldentulipbucharest.com. 81
rooms. PTHRUFLGKW
Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL

In a building on a street hidden a little behind the
Sutu Palace this is a great place from which to enjoy
the delights of Old Town and indeed the whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern, tastefully
furnished and come with comfortable beds and good
bathrooms. The breakfast room is great, and theres
an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets
outside.QC-5, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
April - May 2015
73
Hotels
HELLO HOTELS
Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount
of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete
with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than
many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are
more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes
we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the
place a short walk from the station.QB-4, Calea Grivitei
143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.
hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. PR6ULGKW
IBIS GARA DE NORD
A hotel for more than 40 years this building (and the whole
area) was given a real lift when it became a good old Ibis
some several years ago now. Expect a room a bit bigger
than standard Ibis size, the usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all a good value stay. The name is
not misleading: it is dead opposite the station.QA-4, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00,
www.ibishotels.ro. 250 rooms. PHR6ULG
KW
IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI
If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps
the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it
is a fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from
anywhere else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you are not driving, it does boast non-smoking
rooms and very good staff.QB-6, Str. Izvor 82-84, tel.
(+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 161 rooms.
PTHR6ULGKW
MINERVA
It is really hard to knock the Minerva so we will not even
try. Having been around so long it is entitled to a gold
watch, it remains a great choice for business people who
pay their own bills: you get great service, a good room (a
choice of smoking or non-smoking), a dead-central location yet are only asked for a fraction of what the five-stars
charge. The oldest Chinese restaurant in Romania is located on the ground floor, there is a lively bar and a good
spa, complete with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and massage.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu 2-4, MPiata Victoriei,
tel. (+4) 021 311 15 55, www.minerva.ro. PHRF
GKDW
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH
Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau
park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on average, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with
loads of equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool (in summer). Good lobby bar and fine-dining
in the restaurant too.QC-6, Str. Daniel Danielopolu
44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00, www.ramadanorth.ro.
232 rooms. PTHR6UFLGKDCW
JEWISH BUCHAREST
CHORAL TEMPLE First built in 1857, then rebuilt in
1866 following its destruction in a pogrom, the red-brick
Choral Temple has a memorial in front of it that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during the
Holocaust. It is a copy of Viennas Leopoldstadt-Tempelgasse Great Synagogue. It was rededicated in December
2014 following an eight-year renovation of the fabulous,
colourful interior.QC-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96.
HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Unveiled in 2009, Romanias rather strange yet moving Holocaust Memorial
both remebers those killed by fascism, as well a recognising the countrys role in the genocide of Europes
Jews.QB-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov, MEroilor.
JEWISH HISTORY MUSEUM (HOLY UNION
TEMPLE; MUZEUL DE ISTORIE A EVREILOR DIN
ROMANIA) Housed in the amazing Holy Union Temple
synagogue, constructed in 1836, this building has served
as a museum of Jewish history since 1978. A number of
separate exhibitions display how the once vibrant Jewish
community of Bucharest used to live, while there is also
an impressive Jewish liturgical collection, most of which
was assembled by Moses Rosen, Romanias Chief Rabbi
from 1964-94. QC-6, Str. Mmulari 3, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 021 311 08 70. Open 09:00 - 14:00, Fri, Sun
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free.
THE GREAT POLISH SYNAGOGUE & HOLOCAUST MUSEUM Bucharests Great Synagogue, often
called the Great Polish Synagogue, was built from 1845
-1846 by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. Rather
plain on the outside the interior is an impressive mixture
of baroque and rococo styles, and the Great Synagogue is
perhaps today the most important Jewish building in the
country. The synagogue hosts an exhibition dedicated
to Jewish martyrs, and to Moses Rosen, Romanias Chief
Rabbi for 30 years until his death in 1994. Guided tours are
available (phone ahead). QC-6, Str. Vasile Adamache
11, MPiata Unirii. Open 08:30 - 15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30
- 13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat
09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.
YESHOAH TOVA SYNAGOGUE (SINAGOGA
EUA TOVA) Located on a busy side street off Bulevardul Magheru, this is in fact Bucharests oldest working synagogue, dating from 1827. It is one of just three
in Bucharest which still holds regular religious services.
QC-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, MPiata Romana. Services take place when Sabbath commences on Friday
evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00.
You can read more about Jewish Bucharest online at:
Hotels
Directory
VILLAS
CLEANERS
BUCHAREST BOUTIQUE ACCOMMODATION

An elegant, stylish villa a short walk from Piata Unirii. There
are two rooms, and one enormous apartment. All of the
accommodation is immaculately furnished to the highest
standards of good taste. It is a real find this place, and one
we cant recommend enough. Impressively all children are
free if they share their parents room: we wish all Bucharest
hotels had this policy. Pets are welcome too, and breakfast
is included in the price.QC-7, Str. Vitejescu 37, MTineretului, tel. (+4) 0760 29 66 30, www.bucharest-boutiqueaccommodation.ro. 3 rooms. PT6LW
EGNATE Professional cleaning service: apartments, houses, offices etc. They will even come and clear up after you
have had the builders in, and can take care of tricky things
such as marble and furniture.QB-4, Str. Gheorghe Manu
10, tel. (+4) 0734 11 15 55/(+4) 0723 89 22 86, office@
egnate.ro, www.egnate.ro.
VILA 11
Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de Nord (one
block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Golescu) Vila 11
has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities and family
suites available for backpackers and families of all ages.
Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great breakfast
(included in the price) and are a wealth of inside info when
it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest. Prices from
20-54.QA-4, Str. Institutul Medico Militar 11, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00, vila11bb@hotmail.com.
6 rooms. T6GW
SHORT-TERM RENTAL
APART HOMES A range of city-centre apartments,
from studios to two-bedroomed places, as well as a villa
in Baneasa. They have someone on call 24 hours, maid
service twice a week and offer a variety of other services.
Prices from 50-150.QC-6, Str. George Valentin Bibescu
33, bl. X/2, sc. A, ap. 6, tel. (+4) 021 232 04 06, www.
aparthomes.ro. 20 rooms. PTR6GW
GRAND ACCOMMODATION Grand Accommodation has a variety of well furnished apartments and
villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for
both short and long term rentals. Prices from 30-80/
night.QB-5, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722
36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.for-rent.ro.
DENTISTS
B.B. CLINIC - GERMAN DENTIST Unquestionably the
best dentist in the city. Whats more, you can bring the kids
too, as they now have a special room at the Dorobanti location equipped especially for younguns.QD-6, Str. Ionescu
Gion 4, tel./fax (+4) 021 320 01 51, www.germandentist.
ro. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. For emergencies
(24hrs) tel. (+4) 0744 49 91 99. Also at (B-2) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4) 021 231 88 56.
DRY CLEANERS
5ASECQB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 111, tel. (+4) 021 236
00 98, www.5asec.ro. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at (E-7) Calea Vitan 13, tel. (+4)
021 320 99 95; B-dul Alex. Serbanescu 60-64, tel. (+4)
021 891 98 44; Cora Alexandrei, Sos. Alexandrei 152, tel.
(+4) 021 776 91 21.
COUNTRY CLUB
STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB What is unquestionably Romanias leading country club is just slightly
north of Bucharest, in a quiet location just past Ikea
and the Baneasa mall. Boasting a superb spa and offering an amazing range of sports (including squash,
tennis, a climbing wall, a huge indoor swimming pool
and a range of aerobic and martial arts options) they
also even have a golf driving range. There are various
membership options, from a year to simple weekly or
day tickets.QStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0744 33
21 55/(+4) 031 424 70 51, www.stejariicountryclub.
ro. Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
April - May 2015
75
Directory
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
AUSTRIA QC-4, Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021
201 56 124.
BELGIUM QD-4, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
BULGARIA QB-3, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
CANADA QA-3, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307 50 00.
CROATIA QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 1, tel. (+4) 021 300 36 55.
CZECH REPUBLIC QC-5, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
DENMARK QD-5, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300 08 00.
FINLAND QB-3, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
FRANCE QB-4, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
GERMANY QB-3, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
GREECE QE-5, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 209 41 70.
HUNGARY QC-4, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
IRELAND QB-4, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021
310 21 31.
ITALY QB-4, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
MOLDOVA QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021
230 04 74.
NETHERLANDS QB-3, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel.
(+4) 021 208 60 30.
NORWAY QB-3, Str. Atena 18, tel. (+4) 021 306 98 00.
POLAND QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308 22 00.
PORTUGAL QB-3, Str. Paris 55, tel. (+4) 021 230 41 36.
RUSSIA QB-3, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
SERBIA QB-3, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211 98 71.
SPAIN QB-3, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
SWEDEN QB-3, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
SWITZERLAND QB-4, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 1620, tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK QC-4, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
PHARMACIES
HELP NET QC-6, B-dul Unirii 27, tel. (+4) 031 405 04 59,
www.helpnet.ro. Also at (B-3) Str. Av. Radu Beller 8, tel.
(+4) 031 405 04 79 and many other locations.
SENSIBLU QB-3, Str. Radu Beller 6, tel. (+4) 021 233 89 61,
www.sensiblu.com. Open 24hrs. Also at (C-5) B-dul N. Balcescu 7, tel. (+4) 021 305 73 14 and many other locations.
MARKET VALUES
1 is currently worth around 4.44 lei. A pint of local
beer in a central Bucharest bar or pub will cost you
around 8 lei (1.82). A McDonalds Big Mac costs 9.90
lei (2.25), while a loaf of plain bread in a local store is
1.20 lei (0.27). A packet of 20 international brand cigarettes costs 14.50 lei (3.29), and one litre of standard
unleaded petrol 6.17 lei (1.40). A one-trip ticket for
public transport ticket costs 1.30 lei (0.29).
April - May 2015
77
Village
Museum
Romanian National
Rugby Stadium
Arc de Triumf
Casa Victor
Romanian
Television (TVR)
ence
id
Res
l de
Arcu
m
Triu
ond
llo M
Pico
Peasant
Museum
Nonna Mia
Geology
Museum
Grigore
Antipa
Museum
Starlight
Childrens
Emergency Hospital
Marshal Garden
Minerva
George Enescu
Museum
Duke
Ibis Gara
de Nord
Hello
Moxa
Howard Johnson
Grand Plaza
Golden Tulip
Yeshoah Tova
Northern Bucharest
Circus Globus
Emergency Hospital
Institutul Matei Bals
Piata Obor
Dan
Central & Southern Bucharest
InterContinental
Rembrandt
Tania
Europa Royale
Unirea
Street register
13 Septembrie, Calea
B6
21 Decembrie 1989, Piata C5
Academiei, Str.
C5
Alecsandri Vasile, Str.
B4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Intr. C4
Alexandrescu Grigore, Str. B4
Aman Theodor, Str.
B5
Amman, Str.
C3
Amzei, Intr.
B4
Apolodor, Str.
B6
Argentina, Str.
B3
Arghezi Tudor, Str.
C5
Atelierului, Str.
A4
Atena, Str.
B3
Balaban Emil, Str.
C4
Balcescu Nicolae, Bd.
C5
Baniei, Str.
C6
Banului, Str.
B5
Baratiei, Str.
C6
Batistei, Str.
C5
Berna, Str.
B3
Berthelot H. M., G-ral., Str. B5
Berzei, Str.
A4
Biserica Amzei, Str.
B4
Biserica Enei, Str.
C5
Bitolia, Intr.
B3
Blanari, Str.
C6
Blanc Louis, Arh., Str.
B3
Blanduziei, Str.
C5
Bogdan Ion, Prof., Str.
C4
Botez Eugen, Cmdr., Str. C3
Bratianu I.c., Bd.
C6
Brazilia, Str.
B3
Brebu, Str.
E3
Brezoianu Ion, Str.
B5
Brutus M.i., Str.
B6
Bruxelles, Str.
B3
Budisteanu Constantin,
G-ral, Str.
B5
Buiestrului, Str.
C3
Buzesti, Intr.
B4
Buzesti, Piata
A4
Buzesti, Str.
B4
Buzoiani Iani, Str.
C2
Buzoianu Ion, Lt.col., Intr. C6
Caderea Bastiliei, Intr.
B4
Caderea Bastiliei, Str.
B4
Caderon Jean Louis, Str. C5
Calin Ion, Erou, Str.
C4
Cameliei, Str.
A4
Carada Eugeniu, Str.
C6
Caragea Ioan Voda, Str.
C4
Caragiale I.l., Str.
C5
Caragiale I.l.,intr.
C5
Carol I, Bd.
D5
Catargiu Lascar, Bd.
B4
Cavafii Vechi, Str.
C6
Cazzavillan Luigi, Str.
B5
Cernat Alexandru,
G-ral, Str.
A4
Cioranu Mihai, Str.
A6
Clucerului, Str.
A3
Clunet, Dr., Str.
A6
Coanda Constantin, G-ral., Str.
B4
Coanda Henri, Str.
B4
Cobalcescu Grigore,
Prof., Str.
B5
Coltei, Str.
C5
Constantin Daniel, Str.
B4
Constitutiei, Piata
B6
Conta Vasile, Str.
C5
Coposu Corneliu, Bd.
C6
Coposu Corneliu, Piata
D6
Cornescu, Str.
C3
Cotiturii, Str.
A5
Covaci, Str.
C6
Crisana, Str.
A5
Crisului, Str.
C6
Cronicarilor, Str.
C3
Cuza Alexandru Ioan, Bd. A4
Dacia, Bd.
D4
Dascalu Nicolae, Serg., Intr. B4
David Emmanuel, Str.
C4
Davila Carol, Dr., Str
A6
Dealul Mitropoliei, Alee
C6
Demetriade Gheorghe, Cpt.
av., Str
B3
Dianei, Str.
C5
Doamna Oltea, Str.
C3
Dona Nicolae, G-ral, Str.
B5
Dorobanti, Calea
B3
Dorobanti, Piata
B3
Dragalina Ion, G-ral., Str. B6
Drobeta, Str.
C4
Duca Gheorghe, Bd.
A4
Dumbrava Rosie, Str.
C4
Eforie, Str.
C5
Eftimiu Victor, Intr.
B5
Elie Radu, Str.
B5
Eminescu Mihai, Intr.
C4
Eminescu Mihai, Str.
D4
Enescu George, Piata
B5
Enescu George, Str.
B5
Episcopiei, Str.
C5
Eroii Sanitari, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Bd.
A5
Eroilor, Piata
A6
Felix Iacob, Dr., Str.
A4
Filipescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Finlanda, Str.
B3
Floreasca, Cale
C3
Florescu Ion, G-ral, Str.
C5
Franceza, Str.
C6
Frumoasa, Intr.
B4
Frumoasa, Str.
B4
Furtuna Stefan, Intr.
A5
Gabroveni, Str.
C6
Gara De Nord, Piata
A4
Gara De Nord, Str.
A4
Georgescu George, Str.
B6
Ghica Ion, Str.
C5
Golescu Dinicu, Bd.
A4
Golescu Nicolae, Str.
C5
Greceanu Paul, Str.
C4
Grigorescu Eremia, Str.
C4
Grivitei, Cale
B4
Gusti Dimitrie, Str.
A5
Gutenberg, Str.
B5
Haga, Str.
B3
Hagi Moscu Maria, Str.
A3
Halelor, Str.
C6
Haret Spiru, Str.
B5
Hasdeu Iulia, Intr.
B4
Hasdeu Iulia, Str.
B4
Horatiu, Str.
B4
Hristo Botev, Bd.
C5
Iancu De Hunedoara, Bd. B4
Icoanei, Str.
C4
Ilfov, Str.
B6
Iorga Nicolae, Intr.
B4
Iorga Nicolae, Str.
B4
Iosif O. Eugen, Dr., Str.
A6
Iulian Stefan, Str.
A3
Izvor, Str.
A6
Justitiei, Str.
B6
Kiseleff P.d., Bd.
B3
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Bd B5
Kogalniceanu Mihail, Piata B5

Lacatusului, Str.
C2
Lacul Tei, Bd.
D3
Lahovari Alexandru, Piata C4
Lantului, Str.
A6
Lascar Vasile, Str.
C5
Lazar Gheorghe, Str.
B5
Lebedei, Str.
A3
Libertatii, Bd.
B6
Libertatii, Piata
B7
Lipova, Str.
A5
Lipscani, Str.
C6
Lisabona, Str.
B3
Lister, Dr., Str.
A6
Londra, Str.
B3
Lupu Dionisie, Str.
C5
Luterana, Str.
B5
Macedoniei, Str.
A5
Magheru Gheorghe, Bd C5
Magiresti, Str.
A4
Maltopol, Str.
A4
Mamulari, Str.
C6
Manolescu Grigore, Str.
A3
Manu Gheorghe, G-ral, Str. B4
Maracineanu Walter, Piata B5
Masaryk Thomas, Str.
C5
Mendeleev D.i., Str.
C4
Mexic, Str.
B3
Michelet Julles, Str.
C4
Micle Veronica, Str.
A4
Mihai Voda, Str.
B6
Mihalache Ion, Bd.
A3
Mihnea Voda, Str.
C6
Mille Constantin, Str.
B5
Millo Matei, Str.
B5
Mincu Ion, Arh., Str.
B3
Mirinescu Mihail, Dr., Str. A6
Miron Costin, Str.
A4
Mitropolit Antim Ivireanul, Str.
B6
Monetariei, Str.
B3
Mosilor, Cale
D4
Moxa Mihail, Str.
B4
Muresanu Andrei, Str.
B3
Musatescu Tudor, Piata
B5
Natiunile Unite, Bd.
B6
Natiunile Unite, Piata
B6
Neculce Ion, Str.
A3
Negri Costache, Str.
A6
Negruzzi Iacob, Str.
A4
Negulescu Stefan, Str.
C3
Occidentului, Str.
B4
Oslo, Str.
B3
Ostasilor, Str.
B5
Otetari,str. C5
Paris, Str.
B3
Parvan Vasile, Str.
B5
Pasteur Louis, Dr., Str.
A6
Patriarhiei, Str.
C6
Petrescu Camil, Intr.
C4
Philippide Alexandru, Str. C4
Piata Amzei, Str.
B4
Pitar Mos, Str.
C5
Poenaru Bordea, Str.
B6
Poiana Narciselor, Str.
B5
Politie, Str.
B6
Polizu Gheorghe, Str.
A4
Polona, Str.
C4
Poni Petru, Str.
A4
Popa Tatu, Str.
B5
Popescu-gopo Ion, Str.
A6
Povernei, Str.
B4
Praga, Str.
B3
Praporgescu David,
G-ral., Str.
C5
Pretorienilor, Str.
A6
Putul Cu Plopi, Str.
B5
Putul Lui Zamfir, Str.
B3
Quinet Edgar, Str.
C5
Quito, Piata
B3
Rabat, Str.
B3
Radu Voda, Str.
C6
Ramniceanu Naum, Str.
C3
Regina Elisabeta, Bd.
C5
Regina Maria, Bd.
C6
Revolutiei, Piata
B5
Rigas, Intr.
B5
Roma, Intr.
B3
Roma, Str.
B3
Romana, Piata
B4
Rosetti C.a., Piata
C5
Rosetti C.a., Str.
C5
Rosetti Maria, Str.
C5
Rossini Gioachino, Str.
C3
Saligny Anghel, Ing., Str. B5
Sapientei, Str.
B6
Sarandy Frosa, Str.
A3
Scarlatescu, Str.
A3
Schitul Magureanu, Bd.
B5
Scoala Floreasca, Str.
C3
Scoalei, Str.
C5
Selari, Intr.
C6
Selari, Str.
C6
Sepcari, Str.
C6
Sevastopol, Intr.
B4
Sevastopol, Str.
B4
Sfanta Vineri, Str.
C6
Sfantul Constantin, Str.
B5
Sfantul Elefterie, Str.
A6
Sfintii Apostoli, Str.
B6
Sfintii Voievozi, Piata
B4
Sfintii Voievozi, Str.
B4
Slanic, Str.
C5
Slatineanu Ion, Str.
C4
Slavesti, Str.
C4
Smardan, Str.
C6
Sofia, Str.
B3
Stahi Constantin, Str.
B5
Staicovici Nicolae, Dr., Str. A6
Stavropoleos, Str.
C6
Stefan Cel Mare, Sosea
D4
Stirbei Voda, Intr.
B5
Stirbei Voda, Str.
B5
Tirana, Str.
B3
Titulescu Nicolae, Sosea A4
Tokio, Str.
B3
Tomescu Toma, Dr., Intr. B4
Transilvaniei, Str.
B5
Tudor Stefan, Intr.
C3
Tunari, Str.
C4
Unirii, Bd.
C6
Unirii, Piata
C6
Universitatii, Piata
C5
Vacarescu Barbu, Str.
C3
Venezuela, Str.
B3
Verona Arthur, Pictor, Str. C5
Victoriei, Calea
B4
Victoriei, Piata
B4
Visarion I.c., Str.
B4
Vladoianu Barbu, G-ral, Str. A3
Vlaicu Aurel, Str.
C4
Vulcanescu Mircea, Str.
B4
Washington, Str.
B3
Witting, Str.
A4
Xenopol Alexandru, Str. C4
Zalomit Z. Ion. Str.
B5
Zola Emile, Str.
B3

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Maps Restaurants Cafs Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Directory Hotels

ONE OF THE BEST

Arriving & Getting Around

The tastiest places in the city to eat

Where Bucharest goes to party

Souvenirs, local designers and local wine

Dont leave Bucharest without seeing the essentials

April - May 2015

ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,

This sculpture at the southern

4 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more

Arriving & Getting Around

ARRIVING AT GARA DE NORD

6 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around

April - May 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, are likely to be of any use to

8 Bucharest In Your Pocket

Bucharest - Brasov and Bucharest - Constanta routes are

CAR RENTAL IN BUCHAREST

Arriving & Getting Around

10 Bucharest In Your Pocket

50 89, Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun and Henri

CRIME & SAFETY

April - May 2015

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BUCHAREST

April - May 2015

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking E Live music

the property of Elena Lupescu, mistress of King Carol II.

ROSSETYA Rossetya is a restaurant which tries harder

HANU BERARILOR CASA ELENA LUPESCU

VATRA RESTAURANT We have been eating here for

16 Bucharest In Your Pocket

close to Old Town and very close to Cismigiu Park, expect

AMERICAN & BURGERS

some more refined, slow food options. Famously good

FOOD & DRINK

April - May 2015

April - May 2015

CAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Italian city centre cafe/

CUCINA Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is

CAPRICCIOSA A bustling Italian restaurant and pizzeria

GRANO An Italian the likes of which many of the other

April - May 2015

Victoriei 122, tel. (+4) 0735 11 10 01/(+4) 0767 51 61

yet brilliantly executed local fish dishes (hamsii, carp and

in our average butchers or supermarket (we saw lambs

If your idea of Romania is old

- Under 10 per person

RESTAURANT MADAME POGANY

BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like youve never

April - May 2015

BLACK EYE COFFEE Bright little cafe packed with comfy

Given how popular the place is (particularly the amazing

April - May 2015

Bucharest to spend time.QC-5, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4

RIGOLETTO GIUSEPPE VERDI

April - May 2015

LIVE MUSIC LISTINGS