Textile internship report

Raymonds limited chhindwara

Date 02/06/2015-15/06/2015

Submitted by:
Apoorva
Kavya komal gupta
Pushpa singh
(Nift patna)
Acknowlegdement
At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who have
assisted in the formulation of this report. There are many to whom
expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there are some special people
who should be given prominence, without whom we would not have
reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently.
We wish to thank Ms. Nilima Regina Topno, the centre coordinator of NIFT
Patna (A.P), for providing this wonderful opportunity, chanelling and
motivation.

We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. Naresh Kadu, the human

resource manager who guided and supported us through every stage of
out internship.
We also wish to thank Mr. Abhay Naik, Mr. Sandeep Lahiri, Mr. Sanjay
Pathak, Mr. B.B Singh, Mr. Sanjay Singh, Mr. Sachin Mali, Mr. Omprakash
Jangir and Mr. Ashish Dubey for their proper guidance and cooperation.
We also take this opportunity to express our gratitude towards our parents
for their consistant faith and support.
Apoorva
Kavya Komal Gupta
Pushpa Singh

Introduction
The internship is the perfect amalgamation of the classroom principles
and practical knowledge that form an integral part of understanding what
is being taught. It gives the students a perfect platform to improve their
interpersonal skills and communication to help them succeed in their
professional career. N.I.F.T gave us this valuable chance to undergo a two
weeks internship at Raymonds Ltd. Chhindwara, Madhya Pradesh.
It was our sincere effort to stand up to the name of our institute and do
our internship with full and complete sincerity.
Primitive people discovered that a succession of short fibres could be
twisted into a continuous yarn. This was probably accomplished slowly
and laboriously at first, but the greater strength thus produced and the
many uses soon found for articles made from continuous yarns led to the
invention of hand implements to aid and improve the process of twisting
and spinning. At the same time it was necessary to invent simple
methods of disentangling, separating and arranging the fibers according
to their length, other than by just using the fingers. Thus, crude methods
of techniques were redefined. In time, long filament strands unwound
from silk cocoons, and still later, filaments formed by chemical synthesis
were made into yarns. Now yarns are also made by integrating the staple
and filament fibers.

Company profile
Name of the company
textile

: Raymond limited,

Division

: Chhindwara

Address
Nagar, Boregaon, tah, sausar

: B-1 A.K.V.N Kailash

District,

chhindwara- 480106
Head office
tagore marg, civil lines,

:165 Ravindranath
Nagpur 440001,

India
Phone no
226508

: (91-07165)226503 /

Website
www.raymondindia.com

Fax no

: (91-07165)226512

Product type
suiting, shirting

: deals in all types of

And all types of

dress material made up of polyViscose, poly- wool

and all wool.

Overview of the company

Raymond limited textile division, chhindwara a unit of Raymond limited is
situated at A.K.V.N Kailash nagar Sausar in the Chhindwara district of
Madhya Pradesh. Raymond is the worlds largest producer of worsted
suiting fabrics commanding over 60% market share in India. With a
capacity of 31 million meters, Raymond is among the few companies in
the world, fully integrated to manufacture of worsted fabrics , wool and
wool blended fabrics. We also convert these fabrics into suits, trousers
and apparels that are exported to over 55 counries in the world.
A trendsetter and an innovator in the Indian textile market, its expertise
has been brought forth by their in-house research and development
team. Their innovations have become milestones in the worsted suitings
industry. Raymond mastered the craft of producing the finest suiting in the
world using using super fine wool count and blending the same with
superfine polyester and other speciality fibres, like cashmere, angora,
alpaca etc.
Top management
Chairman and M.D
Singhania
President textiles
Works Director
Padmanabhan
General Manager
Output
45000 mtrs. Fabric per day
Units turnover

: Mr. Gautam Hari

:Mr. Deshmukh
:Mr Vinod
:Mr. Nagin Choudhari

Rs. 750 crores (approx.)

Area of the plot
100 acres
Power consumption
175000 units/day
Water consumption
45 lacs litres/day
Coal consumption
250 metres tone/ day
Man power
Management/ officers- 469
Staff- 18
Sub-staff- 35
Workers- 2463
Badly 226
Total 3211
Location
Raymond limited is situated in boregaon industrial estate. Located at 57
kms from Nagpur on Nagpur chhindwara road.
Head office
J . K. organization western zone
J . K. building, N. Morarjee Marg,
Ballard Estate, Mumbai- 38
Corporate office
Raymond limited
Mahindra tower, B-wing
Pandurang budkar marg

Worli, Mumbai.

Departments covered
RMG
GREY COMBING
DYEING
RECOMBING
WORSTED SPINNING
PV SPINNING
WEAVING
FINISHING
QUALITY CONTROL

RMG

Department- RMG(Raw Material Godown

Objective1.To receive raw material both from inside and outside and
maintain the stock
2. To receive, maintain and dispatch waste receive from
different departments.
Input- RAW MATERIAL
TOP OF WOOL

- From outside
- Grey Combing

TOP OF POLYESTER Converter

OutputPV SPINNING - Viscose

DYEING

-White PSF, White TOP of Wool and poly

Recombing -White wool top and polyester.

Raw Material AvailablePSF(polyester Staple Fiber)

VSF(Viscose Staple Fibre)
TOW(polyester continuous fillament)
GWL(greasy wool)
SWL(scoured wool)

Other Material (Received from Supplier)Flax TOP(Linen TOP)

Silk TOP

Viscose TOP
Lenzing TOP
Blended TOP
Acrylic TOP
Casmere TOP

Suppliers Name-

NAME

MATERIAL

RIL- (Reliance Industries Ltd.

Patalganga (M.S.)
Surat (Gujrat)
FFL- Futtla Fibre Ltd.
Chennai
GIL- Grasim Industries Ltd.
NAGADA(M.P.)
Chhandiadh
DAL- Dawrin Australia P.Ltd.
CIDL- Compagnie Importion
DE Lainer
BEAPL- LWK Elders Australia P.Ltd
RSA- Rantex S.A.(Uruguay)

TOW-PSF

TOW-PSF-TOP
VSF-TOP

Greasy Wool
Graesy Wool
Greasy Wool
FLAX TOP

PSFPolyester staple fibre(Supplier-RIL) is a man made fibre petroleum

produet. In PSF we receive SPARKEL & NORMAL. SPARKEL has more
shining properties normal is little dull in nature. In sparkle cross section is
triloble. Normal is semi-dull cross section is normal.

Low Pill FibreIts high brittle in fibre which breaks very esasily.

VSF-

Viscose staple fibre is regenerated cellulosic fibre which is made

from wood pulp. Generally it is dope dyed by suppliers and is in fibrous
form. VSF we use only Grasim Industries Ltd.
All the polyester and viscose we receive in denier like 2.0d, 5d, etc.
and lengthwise like 51mm, 44mm, 38mm etc.
Denier (it is making 9000mt.yarn weight in grams thats DENIER)

USE PSF/USFFor grey dyed fabric VSF we purchase directly from Grasim
Industries (Dope Dyed) and PSF they deliever to their deying department
for fibred deying. Mainly for VSF & PSF they send to their PV/SPG. There
they mix it in a certain rate percentage for the P/V fabric.
Daily avg. consumption. VSF is 1.8Ton and PSF 2.9Ton
TOWTOW is continuous filament(polyester) purchase for making blend
with wool. In TOW it is possible get variable length needed from their
converter machines. Few converter to polyester TOP.

GWLThe greasy wool which we receive from Australia, South Africa in

various microns value. It is Merino wool which is sustainable for suiting
cloth greasy wool is supposed to be washed or scoured for the combing
process which makes the wool TOP.

Waste GodownDepartment
P/V Spinning

Waste
P/V Soft
P/V Hard
P/V Sweeping

W/ Spinning

T/W Soft
P/W Hard
P/W Sweeping

Recombing

P/W Soft

R/C Noil
R/C Sweeping
All Wool Soft
Converter

TOW Spk. Soft

TOW NP. Soft
TOW BLK Soft
TOW Sweeping
TOW SPK
TOW SP Soft

PER-DAY RAW MATERIAL

(AVERAGE-25.99 ton)
(From Apr.-11 to Mar-12)
-Greasy and scoured wool
1.8+3.80 Ton
-TOW
5.0 Ton
-PSF
2.90Ton
-VSF
1.60Ton
-Polyester Top In & Outside
4.9+1.30 Ton
-Wool Top In & Outside
4.30+0.34 Ton

GREY COMBING

Department- Grey Combing

Raw MaterialWool

Source
Types

Polyester

Source
Types
Denier

Australia
South Africa
17.5, 18.2, 19.0,
21, 22.5, 24.5
Reliance Ltd.
Semi Dull
Trilobal
Low pill
1.5, 2.0, 2.5 3.0

Process flow-

Scouring

Blowing

Carding

3 Pre-Gilling

Top
Formation

2 Post-Gilling

Combing

Impurities In Wool

Fat
Riam
Mud

Objective Of Wool Scouring1. To remove grease and impurities.

2. To add lubricant for better working in other stages

Process Flow-

Addition of soda ash (sodium carbonate) at 50

dgree centigrade
Addition of Detergent at next 2 stages to remove
grease
Washig with Water at 2 stages at 50 degrees
Dry with steam at 90 dgrees in steam chamber
Oil as antistatic lubricant is added

IN THIS PROCESS GREASE IS NOT REMOVED TOTTALY 0.35% GREASY

IS LEFT IN IT TO PROTECT THE FIBER PROPERTIES.

Greasy Wool is sourced from VAPI.

Hopper is used for opening.
Conical shape tanks called bowl which contains hot water and
detergent is added to it.
Squeezing roll is used.
Convayor lattice is used.
Side tank is used to circulate water from main tank.
Fresh detergent and soda is added.
Material is dried with dryer.
Aster total process- semi-finished material is obtained
Ducting line uses section to transport materials.
3 operators and 8 hours required.

CARDING
Objective

Sliver formation
Conversion of width and weight into length
Formation of Web
Individualisation of fibres
Removal of impurities

 It is a compulsory process.
Carding Produces Non-Woven fabric.

GILL BOX

Parellelisation of the fibre

Elimination of unevenness
Oil is added in the 1st and 2nd gilling
No oil is added in 3rd gilling

Pre-Gilling (before combing)- 3 tumes

Post-Gilling(after Combing)- 2 times

Types-

In pre-gilling the output to input ratio is 7:1 i.e. feed given is 7 times
that of delivery. The end roller moves at 7 times higher speed. It
further enlongates the sliver. GILLING IS A ALTERNATIVE PROCESS
USED INSTEAD OF DRAW FRAMES.

COMBING

DOUBLING

Removal of short fibres, minimum length-32mm is acceptable.

The fibres that are generated as waste here are called NOILE
Entanglement, Dust and other impurities are removed
Mean fibre length = Average fibre length
The coefficient of variation should not be more than 5
In carding machine in 1st roller the height and angle of pins
are larger and they gradually decrease in the next 2 roller
sections.
CARDING RATIO = The ratio of input material and the output
material
o In case of this machine 1:20
Bumpers is used for packing & threading the resultant.
The linear density of worsted sliver is called wrapping.
o Wrapping of carding- 26g
o Wrapping of TOP-25g
Draft- ratio of feed roll speed and delivery roll speed.

Combination of a number of sliver to form a single Sliver.

DRAFTING
Elongation of the sliver. In is done with the help of two roller.
Bin
A room to store raw material.

MAN-POWER
Carding
Preparatory
Comber
Gill Box
Packer

2 operators of 2
machines
2 operators for 2
preaperatory
2 operators
2 operators
1 operator

CONVERTER

Filament fibres into staple fibres like conversion of polyester

into staple(Yield 8.5 Kg)
Input- 7 tons
Output- 6.4 tons
Tint marks are used for identification of the tops
After top completion, it goes to dyeing then recombing

GILL BOX

MACHINES

.Top light- IT glows when can meter is filled.

Second light- The back roller stops
Third light- If fuller stops
Fourth light- If top roller stops
Fifth light- If gates are open
Sixth light- It is green signal to not stop the machine

PROCESS
Carding
Gill Box
Comber
Converter
`

MACHINE USED
Thebbew NSC CS6
Thebbew NSC GC14
Thebbew NSC PB31
Thebbew NSC TP11

Worsted spinning :-

Process Flow of worsted spinning :Top Storage is the first step of worsted spinning then we have gilling 1
,gilling2, gilling3, gilling4 after that it goes with various process like
roving, ring frame ,steaming, auto winding ,s.y.r ,ply winding ,TFO,
Steaming , D.y.r.

Carding:
The carding process for worsted yarn production is intended to disentangle and lay them
as parallel as possible. The fibres are passed between rollers covered with fine wire teeth.
Since worsted yarns, however, should be smooth, the fibers are made to lie as parallel as
this process will permit. Following this operation, the wool goes to the gilling and combing
processes.
Gilling and Combing:
Gilling is carried out before (preparative gilling) and after (finisher gilling) combing. The
preparative gilling is mainly to align the fibers in a parallel direction, further blend the wool
through doubling and to add moisture and lubricants. Whereas finisher gilling is mainly
aimed to remove the mild entanglement introduced to the combed sliver. The carded wool,
which is to be made into worsted yarn, is put through gilling and combing operations. The
gilling process removes the shorter staple and straightens the longer fibers. This process is
continued in the combing operation, which removes the shorter fibers of 1 to 4 inch (25
100 mm) lengths (called combing noils), places the longer fibers (called tops) as parallel as
possible, and further cleans the fibers by removing any remaining loose impurities.
Drawing:
Drawing is an advanced operation which doubles and redoubles slivers of wool fibers. The
process draws, drafts, twists, and winds the stock, making the slivers more compact and
thinning them into slubbers. Drawing is done only for worsted process.

Roving:
This is the final stage before spinning. Roving is actually a light twisting operation to hold the
thin slubbers intact.

PREPARATORY SECTION:When the tops come from recombing dept they are stored for conditioning
in the trolley. The conditioning time is around 24 hrs. after conditioning
matrial is taken for spinning process.
Attenuation in weight per unit length of the sliver.
TO minimize the irregularities and reduce the CV% of material by doubling
of slivers.

OBJECTIVES OF GILLING:1) To parallelize and mixing of fibers.

2) To apply wool lubricating oil if needed for smooth working in further
process.
3) To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for
proper run out.
4) To make sliver even by means of doubling.
5) To produce wrapping (wt/unit length) as per requirement.

OBJECTIVES OF ROVING:1) To produce wrapping(wt/unit length) as per requirement.

2) To give required twist/rub to avoid stretch during unwinding in ring
frame.
3) To produce a package suitable for subsequent machine.
4) To make uniform length in each package as per requirement of
next machine for proper runout.
5) It remove unenenness of yarn for further process.

OBJECTIVES OF RING FRAME :-

1) To produce single yarn of required twist and count as per the

instruction from ppo.
2) To produce good quality of yarn
3) To make ring cops means of building mechanism.
4) The rubbing and roving frame bobbins are brought to ring frame
dept the roving is converted into yarn by drafting and twisting.
5) All the three types of yarn made in ring frame .
Eg:-normal yarn
Sarrow yarn
Sarrow lycra yarn
FACTORS FOR PROMOTING GOOD SPINNING :1) Count of yarn.
2)position of spindle rate.
3)correct type travellers.
4)satisfactory spindle speed

AUTO WINDING SECTION:OBJECTIVE OF AUTO WINDING:

Removal of objectionable yarn faults such as thick, thin place and

neps, to improve the yarn quality and subsequently reduce yarn
breakage in further processing.
Rewinding of ring frame cops to a larger package, which is useful for
further processing.
Auto-leveler sensor is attached which removes the shorts term
variation and medium term variation
Online sensor passed through which gives signal for removal of fault
in the yarn.

OBJECTIVES OF STEAMING :At spinning and twisting the fibres are twisted about their longitudinal
axis. Due to their elastic nature they strive to set back and thus yarn

becomes live tending to snarl when tension is released. By torsional forces

are stabalised thus heat setting the yarn.

Doubling section:

PLY WINDING :- Assembly of two yarns are wound parallel as per

requirement such as solid or grindrile to make the feed package for
TFO machine.
TWO FOR ONE TWISTER:-To insert the required twist in required
direction (s/z).

P-V SPINNING:Process flow of p/v spinning :MIXING

BLOW
ROOM
CARDING
DRAW
FRAME
SPEED
FRAME
RING
FRAME
AUTO
CONER
PLY
WINDING
TFO
STEAMING
YARN
GODOWN
OBJECTIVE OF PV SPINNING:The formation of yarn from staple fibers by spinning becomes possible
when they have surface capable of cohesiveness . the quality is
exemplified by the natural twist of the cotton fibers which enables them to
entwine around each other . flexibility permits the fibers to be twisted
around one another, uniformity of staple gives yarns a required evenness
and improves the quality.

The development of short fibers, or staple into yarn when started in terms
of basic manufacturing processes, is as follows; carding, combing,
drafting, twisting and winding. As the fibers pass through these processes,
they are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and finally yarn.
1)Lap to card sliver by the carding process
2)card sliver to comb sliver by combing process ( if thefiber is ti be
combed)
3)sliver to roving by the drafting, or drawing-out
4)roving to yarn by further drafting and twisting processes
5)yarn reeled on bobbins ,spools or cones by the winding process.

Process Flow of PV Spinning:FIBRE

BLOWROOM PROCES

CARDING

COMBING

DRAWING

ROVING
`
YARN

FINISHING:Finishing is the last step of the garment production and all mistakes made
during the process accrue and become a huge problem at this stage. The
Quality Departments also have huge improvement potential and require
special attention.
Process flow for finishing is as follows:
Finishing grey
room

lot making
Singeing
Pre scouring

Post
Scouring
First dry

Heat set
Squeezer

Second dry
Perching/inspe
ction

Shearing

MACHINES USED FOR DIFFERENT PROCESSES IN FINISHING

ARE :

Batching Machine

Singeing : gas sengeing is done to remove small protruding

: Different lots are stitched together end

by end and then a bigger lot is made. Lot preparation is done
according to loom wise ,shade wise and length wise batching
parameters include order no , material group, batch no, length,
weight.
No of machines-4
Make-calico
fibres and make the fabric surface smoother . machine is installed
with two burners in the singeing chamber. One face side and
another one back side. The rollers are provided with water so as to
prevent overheating.
No of machine-1
Make osthoff-senge(Germany)
Prescouring: fabric is washed and treated with chemicals. Fabric
passes through chemical chambers and then washed through hot
and cold water in respective chambers and finally treated with a
neutralizing agent in the last chamber of the machine.Different
chambers are set on different temperatures.
No of machine-1
Make-bianco
FIRST DRY: first dry is provided to all the material in the stenter
machine .after first dry p/v and p/w are sent to stenters again for
heat-set and wool crebbing. Heat set is done to provide dimensional
stability. After that p/v is sent to stenters with padding mangles for
first roller brushes up the first roller so that it remains clean and
clean efficiently . A heating rod is available so as to make the plies
softer for the next operation. Machine has two brushing junctions. A
suction duct maintains the cleanliness by collecting all the waste

and cut fibers and collection them in waste bags through pipes.
Brushing is repeated if necessary.
No of machine-1
Shearing: it is used to cut small protruding fibers off the fabric
surface to make it smooth and have better feel. Uses two sets of
blades.
i)Laser blades
ii)spiral cutter
The two baldes meet at a common points where the fabric plies are
in erect position and gets cut through a scissor action. Suction duct
work the same by taking the waste out of the fabrics surface to the
waste bags. Process can be repeated if required or not obtained the
desired smoothness.
No of machines-1
Back coating : it is necessary to provide strength to the plies
attached to the interleshment of fabric structure so that they do not
come out of pulling. This can be done by two methods.
From spraying- manual-inexpensive
Using back-coating machine- automatic-expensive
Coating machine- it consists of rollers and a chemical tray for its
application on the back side of the fabrics. This machine is attached
to the weft straightener at its start and a stenter at its end. Weft
straightener consists of five steel rolls and two banana rolls for
elimination of bow and skews. It is totally computer controlled and
removes the anomaly with the help of five sensing cameras.
Fabric coming from here moves to the main section which consists
of a small roller, a large roller and a chemical tray. The tray is filled
with the chemical (texanate NW) which comes from the chemical
tank attached to the machine. Small roller is half immersed in a tray
and the fabrics passes through the large roller in such a way that
the back side of the fabric touches the small roller. Thus chemical is
applied to the back side through this continuous operation . the
chemical is viscous enough to remain applied on to the surface.
No of machine-1
Make borgaro Toriness italia
After this fabric moves to the stenter machine to dry up the
chemical . temperature is efficiently maintained.
No of machines 1
Make ramoli textile engg.pvt.ltd.
From application- one chemical tank and one large mixing tank is
used .chemical is mixed with water to produce foam in the large
tank. Foam is taken through the pipe to the tray area of the back
coating machie. As the fabric moves through the roller , foam is

applied to its back side. A metal extractor is there to spread the

foam efficiently and remove excess foam.
MENDING
AFTER THE PROCEESING of the fabric mending comes in work . it
mends samples as well as bulks, first piece is checked and the rest is
inspected on m/c .after mending one ticket is generated, information is
filled in company and after removing of mendable defects fabric is deliver
to the finishing.
TOTAL no of m/c 51
Make trueshape
Total no. of tables- 59(36 running)
Mending table is used for slow movable piece
Mending m/c is used for fast movable piece
DEFECT THAT ARE PRIMARILY MENDED ARE AS FOLLOWS:
SPINNING
Knots
Neps
Oily yarn
Slubs
Thick end
Thick weft
Uneven yarn

WEAVING
Broken end
Broken pick
Floating end
Floats
Loose ends
Loose picks
Missing end
Temple cut
Tight end
Thick in
Weft cut

Softening and p/w for rope scouring . after that second dry is done for
both the materials.
Stenters are used for 1 dry, 2nd dry and softening.
No. of m/c-6
Make corino machine/alba,motex, harish

ROPE SCOURING: The m/c tub is supplied with hot water, cold water
and chemical.a large roller rotates the rope from fabric through

larger grooves into the tub. The processes some have rollers some
have grooves as some have conveyor
No. of m/c -2
Make-local installation
INSPECTION : AFTER SECOND DRY FABRIC IS TAKEN FOR MANUAL
INSPECTION. Stains and objectionable defects like knot, slub,
contamination etc are marked and noted down.
No of m/c- 10
Make- trueshape
PERCHING: slubs ,knot, loose threads and other objectionable faults
are removed.
No. of m/c 15
Make- Trueshape
Shearing ; it is used to cut small protruding fibres off the fabrics
surface . Shearing is a process used to cut off surface fibres on
fabrics. It makes uniform the surface of napped fabrics. Most cut pile
fabrics are also sheared to provide uniform pile height.
DAMPING ; damping is the spraying of tiny water droplets on to the
fabric system through a nozzle system of the m/c. damping is done
only for p/w material.\
1)Scouring / Cleaning
:
Fabric, as it comes from the loom, is dull in appearance. It may have
stains of oils as well as starches, waxes, etc., that are applied to
yarns to make weaving easier. Once the fabric is woven, the
presence of these additives hinders further finishing processes such
as bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc. Therefore, these need to be
removed before sending the fabric for further processing. Scouring
is the process of washing fabric with soap solution. Scouring is the
process of industrial cleaning of fabrics with the help of warm water
and soap solution. It cleans the fabric and makes them more
absorbent.
2) Bleaching:
Many a times natural fibres like cotton, silk and wool are available in
pale / light brown colour. Suppose you have to paint some thing in
light pink colour, unfortunately the brush was not washed properly
and had remains of brown in it. What do you think will happen? You
will not get the pink you wanted. This becomes a problem as light
shades of dyes do not come out well on such fibre colours. To get
exact light shade of the colour, the existing colour has to be
removed. Bleaching is a chemical treatment given to fibres, yarns or
fabric to remove paleness or colour and make them white.
3) Starching / Stiffening:
Starch is generally applied to fabric of fine quality and light weight
or loosely woven fibres. Starching makes the fabric heavier, stiff,

and crisp. It also adds shine and smoothness to the fabric. Cottons
muslin, poplin, cambric and thin silks are generally starched.
Sometimes the loosely woven cotton fabric is starched heavily so
that their quality looks better but the starch comes out with the first
wash and the basic loosely woven structure of the fabric becomes
prominent. Therefore, starched fabric should be examined properly
before purchasing.

4) Calendering:
This is the simplest and the common finish used to improve the
looks of any gray or finished fabric. Similarly, through the process of
Calendering or industrial ironing a fabric is passed through a series
of smooth hot rollers to remove wrinkles and to make it smooth. It
makes the fabric smooth and lustrous, thereby improving its
appearance.
5) ) Mercerization:
The fabric made from cotton wrinkles easily and is difficult to dye. It
is, therefore, treated with sodium hydroxide to make it strong,
lustrous and absorbent. This process is called mercerization. It also
improves the dye uptake of fabrics. Now-a-days this finish has
become a routine finish for all cottons. Even sewing threads which
are used for stitching are mercerized.
6) Parchmentization:
The fabric is different from other cotton fabrics. Yes, it is a thin,
transparent, light weight and stiff fabric and seems to be heavily
starched. But unlike starched fabric, its stiffness remains intact even
after washing. It is not due to a starch but because of application of
a finish called parchmentization.
7) Napping

Napping is a mechanical finish in which woven or knitted fabrics are

passed against rotating, bristled wire-covered brushes. This action
results in fibres actually being raised from the fabric. The overall
effect is a fabric with raised fibre surface.
Napped fabrics have a softer hand and provide better insulation
than the same materials unnapped because they can entrap more
air; hence, their wide use in blankets, sleepwear and winter clothing.

However, the insulating value of cotton and rayon napped fabrics is

not long lasting. The low resilience of these fibres causes premature
flattening of the fibre nap.The nap can partially be restored by
frequent brushing.
8)Plisse
Plisse is the name of a finish as well as the name of a fabric treated
with this finish. It is a permanent finish, produced on cotton by the
action of sodium hydroxide; but unlike mercerizing, no tension is
used. The sodium hydroxide is printed on the fabric in the form of a
paste.The fabric shrinks only where the sodium hydroxide is applied,
producing a puckered effect.
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES

Textile finishes and finishing are classified in several ways. Persons

concerned with end products (designers, merchandisers and sales
personnel) usually categorize finishes as aesthetic
finishes and functional finishes. The former modify the appearance
and/or hand (feel) of fabrics, while the latter improve the
performance of a fabric under specific end use conditions.
Persons concerned with textile processing (chemists and finishers)
categorize finishes into chemical finishesand mechanical finishes.
These are also called wet finishing and dry finishing, respectively.
Finishes are also categorized by their degree of permanence. These
finishes are called permanent, durable, semidurable and temporary.
Permanent finishes usually involve a chemical change in fibre
structure and will not change or alter throughout the life of a fabric.
Durable finishes usually last throughout the life of the article, but
effectiveness becomes diminished after each cleaning, and near the
end of the normal use life of the article, the finish is nearly removed.
Semi-durable finishes last through several launderings or dry
cleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or dry
cleaning.

Temporary finishes are removed or substantially diminished the

first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned

WEAVING.
Weaving is one of the processes that required in textile in terms of
producing a fabric. From the fiber then become a yarn through some other
process, weaving is a process of interlacing two types of yarn known as
warp or ends (run parallel to the weaving machine known as loom) and
weft or filling yarn (run perpendicular to the loom) to produce a rigid
fabric.
PROCESS FLOW OF WEAVING:
Winding the Warp Threads
The warp, that is, the lengthwise threads in the cloth, must be measured
out to the correct length for my project, and the threads must be kept in
order so that they can be wound onto the loom properly. Since its
awkward to wind a warp with fine threads directly from a skein, I
must first wind the thread back onto a cardboard cone. Then I begin

winding the warp using a warping mill. Each thread follows the same path
(based on a guide thread that is the same length as the warp will be) and
is kept in order through the whole process.
Shedding- The process of separating the warp yarn into two layers by
raising the harness to form an open area between two sets of warps and
known as shed.
Picking- The process of inserting the filling yarn through the shed by the
means of the shuttleless while the shed is opening.
Beating- The process of pushing the filling yarn into the already woven
fabric at a point known as the fell and done by the reed.

To continue the weaving process, there are also two additional operations
are essential:

Warp control (let-off)- The motion that deliver warp yarn to the

weaving area at the required rate and at suitable constant tension by

unwinding it from the warp beam.
Cloth control (take-up)- The motion that withdraws the fabric

from the weaving area at the constant rate that will give the required
pick-spacing and then winds it onto a roller.

Yarn Requirements:

Warp

Yarns must be strong enough to withstand greater stress and

abrasion during weaving.

Yarn wound onto the warp beam from single packages

Yarn strengthened and lubricated through sizing process

Yarn smoothness increased through sizing materials

Yarn elongation and flexibility must be sustained [2&3]

Weft
Yarn must be wound properly on a suitable package for high speed

unwinding.
Yarn will be carried by shuttle that made up of wood which the pirn

(hold the weft) is placed. [2&3]

Weaving preparations:

Warping- A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn

packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and

then wound onto a warp beam.

PLUSH WEAVING:This department mainly deals with special type of weaving like- curtains,
seat cover for cars, cushion, carpets, sherwani, fabric etc. And it is done
with the help of following machine.

Sectional warping machine

Make-prashant gamtex, bunniger.

Sample warping machine

Make-suzuki
Filament winding machine
Make-peass mutler
Rapier jacquard weaving machine
Make-grosso SMIT textiles
Plush jacquard loom
Make-michel van de wille