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The Battery
The vehicle's battery stores electrical energy in chemical form and delivers large
amounts of electrical energy (current) on demand to crank the engine. Identify both
battery posts on the battery in Figure 1. One post is marked "+" (positive) or "hot" side
and has a red or black battery cable connected to it. The Junction Block is a voltage
side common connection point used on many vehicles. It is located in the engine
compartment near the battery. The negative battery post is marked "-" (minus) and is
called "ground.". The negative battery cable is usually a two wire black cable. The
smaller diameter cable is connected to the sheet metal for the Accessory Ground.
The larger diameter wire is connected to the engine block for the Engine Ground.
housing with a heavy gauge wire connecting back to the battery's positive (+) post
through the Junction Block. The generator (alternator) housing is the generator
(alternator)'s negative (-) terminal (or ground).
Trace both the positive and negative battery cables from the battery posts to their
connection points in the vehicle. Battery "+" goes to generator (alternator) "+" (the B+
terminal) through the wiring harness. Battery "-" goes to generator (alternator) "-"
through the engine ground and the engine block. The purpose of the voltage regulator
is to excite the generator (alternator) and prevent the charging voltage from rising
above a preset limit. The voltage regulator may be mounted external to the alternator
and bolted to the vehicle's sheet metal with wires connecting to the generator
(alternator) or it may be mounted inside the generator (alternator). On many newer
vehicles the voltage regulator may be computer controlled by a vehicle computer for
more precise control of the charging voltage. This flip-chart may be used regardless of
where the voltage regulator is mounted. Testing the primary electrical system using
FIRST THINGS FIRST requires only a digital voltmeter (DMM).
Autoranging DMM
A block diagram of an Autoranging DMM is shown in (1) of Figure 2. Note the symbol
for the DC Voltage function. It is a small solid line above a small dotted line followed by
a "V". This means "DC Volts." By selecting DC Volts, an Autoranging DMM
automatically sets to the lowest milli-volt (mV) DC Voltage range, usually 200, 300, or
400 mV depending on the DMM brand. All DMMs display 00.0 or 000.0 when on the
milli-volt range so 100 mV (or 0.10V) would read as 100.0 (mV). When an Autoranging
DMM senses the test voltage is above the value of the milli-volt range, the DMM
automatically steps up to the next higher voltage range which is 2.00, 3.00 or 4.00 V
DC range, depending on the DMM brand. All DMMs display .000 on the 2/3/4 volt
range so 1.5 volts would read as 1.500 (V).
When an Autoranging DMM senses the test voltage is above the value of the 2/3/4 Volt
range, the DMM automatically steps up to the next higher voltage range which is the
20.00, 30.00 or 40.00 V DC range, depending on the DMM brand. This is the highest
range the DMM must "step-up" to since cars and trucks run on 12-15 volt systems and
no voltage greater than 20 volts is measured. All DMMs display 0.00 on the 20/30/40
Volt range so 14.25 volts would read as 14.25 (V).
If 145 mV is measured, the DMM drops back down to the mV range and reads 145.0
mV. As an Autoranging DMM jumps around between the mV, 2/3/4V and 20/30/40V
ranges, it can get very confusing and cause reading errors which lead to misdiagnosis
when troubleshooting. If using an Autoranging DMM here's how to make it easy and
avoid the confusion caused by the DMM automatically changing voltage ranges
between test steps.
Manually select the 20V, 30V or 40V range which ever your DMM has and leave
it there while performing these FIRST THINGS FIRST electrical tests. Simply
press the RANGE BUTTON until the readout first says 0.00. This is the 20, 30 or
40 Volt range and a ten millivolt reading is 0.01 while a 14 volt reading is 14.00.
The 20V, 30V or 40V range is the best DMM range for performing the electrical
tests as explained in FIRST THINGS FIRST.
The paragraph "Expect This:" suggests items to check if the reading is incorrect
(too high or too low) and the vehicle fails a test step. Also listed are items to double
check to avoid common mistakes made when performing each test step. When the
vehicle passes each test step, go to the next page and perform the next step. Do not
move to the next step until the correct reading is obtained from either the vehicle
passing the test or as a result of a suggested repair procedure correcting a problem.
Tips: Some of the test steps offer tips on what to check next if a DMM reading on a
particular test step is too high or too low.
FIRST in 5 minutes.