Documenti di Didattica
Documenti di Professioni
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About Us
My Grand Parents
As teacher I wrote several books
about shoes. You can find them
at the Royal Library, The Hague,
Netherlands
Hans van der Elzen. S-Hertogenbosch, The Netherlands.
CIP-Information, Royal Library,
The Hague Author Elzen,Hans v.d.
ISBN 90-71281-01-9 / 90-7128102-7 / 90-71281-03-5 SISO 686.5
UDC 685.3
My Great-Grand Parents
My Parents
(See my website:)
www.shoesandhans.com
and
www.shoesandhans.eu
About Us
English text
Baardwijk
+ J.v.d. Elzen +
One writes:
March 8 J.L. died at age 60 years at Baardwijk, Mr.
J.v.d. Elzen,
He was one of the best, if not the best, and most
famous shoe designer.
His work was frequently rewarded with gold.
He served several times as member of the jury.
+ J.v.d. Elzen +
Table of Contents
Page 5
Page 13
Page 25
Page 35
Page 39
Chapter 6: Proportions
Page 51
Page 55
Page 69
Page 77
Page 85
Page 89
Page 93
Page 99
Page 121
Page 135
Page 147
Page 151
Chapter 18: Standard Blucher boot with and without Water tongue
Page 157
Page 169
Page 175
Page 177
Page 181
Page 185
Page 197
Page 207
Length Measurements
Length measurements
Length measurements
Length measurements
British shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as American Mens shoe sizes
Canadian shoe sizes are equivalent (identical) to American shoe sizes for both Adult and
Childrens.
There are two scales used in the U.S. The standard of Footwear Industries of America, (FIA)
scale and
the common scales. The common scale is more widely used. The scales are
about sizes different.
Although different kinds of shoes prefer different
measurements.
Length measurements
Traditional USA Woman sizes are 1 size different than traditional Mens sizes.
This question has intrigued scientists and thinkers
since the birth of that shoe size discrepancy.
The whole thing started in 1937 when John and
Sarah Banks, a couple from California went into a
shoe store to buy shoes.
John's feet were obviously bigger than Sarah's but
they both had well proportionate body types.
When they bought the shoes, Sarah, who actually
was a very active feminist, noticed that the shoe
size of her husband was bigger than from her and
she felt it was unfair since both of them had normal
feet sizes.
Sarah eventually started protests and demanded a
same shoe size for feet of same proportion.
It worked, and that is why Woman's shoe sizes are
different than Men's.
I do not know if this is a true story but it is an explanation and makes the sizes of the shoes even
more complex.
10
Length measurements
Below you will see a measuring strap, which is what many shoemakers still use today.
One side has centimeters and the other side has English and French sizes.
You can compare the centimeters with English and French sizes (See Fig.1).
English childrens sizes start at 101.6 mm (=12 x 8,466 mm) until size 13 .
English adults sizes starts at 211.65 mm (= 25 x 8,466 mm).
English and USA shoes also come in half sizes.
French shoe sizes do not come in half sizes and start at 0 mm.
(Fig.1)
This comparative size chart gives you a idea from foot, shoe and last length (See Fig.2).
(Fig.2)
Length measurements
11
(Fig.3)
See also the English sizes on the measure strap
and compare them with France sizes.(See Fig.5)
We count 240 mm less 101 mm (in English we start
sizes after 101 mm) = 139 mm.
139 mm divided by 8, 46 mm = 16, 43 English
sizes.
When we have 16, 43 English sizes we deduct the
first 13 English Childrens sizes
In our example we have than 16, 43 English
sizes min 13 English Childrens sizes =
3, 43 English Adult sizes. In this case your English
shoe size is almost 3 .
This means that in USA sizes, your shoe size
is 4 for men and for size 6 for women.
(Fig.4)
In our example the total is 240 mm, 1 France size is 6.66 mm.
240 mm divided by 6.66 mm is 36; our shoe is France size 36.
(Fig.5)
12
Length measurements
EU
35
36
37
38
41
42
47
39
40
43
44
45
46
48
49
50
UK
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
14
15
US
Men
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
13.5
14
15
16
US
Woman
5.5
6
6.5
7
7.5
8
8.5
9
9.5
10
10.5
11
11.5
12
12.5
13
Girth measurements
13
14
Girth measurements
The foot grows in the length more rapidly than in the width. The length
of the foot does not automatically give a standard foot width.
medically justified.
Inquiries regarding the correct measurements for outlines of last insoles can be found in a table for foot
length and girth measurements.
Because of these large differences in feet, we can account for the girth measurements by a table where we
can find the measurements for feet. We do not have
standard girth measures.
The width:
(Fig.2)
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, show an blue print from the feet and
Fig.2 and Fig.3 show how and where to measure the
feet for getting the correct width measurement of the
(Fig.3)
feet. When we measure our feet then we need to
add 8 mm EXTRA. Because the shoe last at the
sole surface forms an angle with the insole, see Fig.4.
Girth measurements
15
(Fig.4)
PLEASE TAKE NOTE THAT THE GIRTH MEASUREMENTS IN THE TABLES ARE MEASURES AROUND THE
FOOT, NOT THE WIDTH OF THE FOOT AS MAINLY EXPLAINED WITH WIDTH TABLES IN THE USA SIzING
SYSTEM.
If we do so the foot will not get enough space, because the instep will become too small.
STRONGLY RECOMMENDED;
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE PERCENTAGE OF THE GIRTH MEASURE
(BALL MEASURE) AS THIS WILL
INFLUENCE THE FIT OF THE SHOE.
(Fig.5)
16
Girth measurements
France
Sizes
S/Narrow
F/Medium
H/Wide
11
46.5
247.0
252.0
257.0
262.0
267.0
272.0
11
45.5
244.0
249.0
254.0
259.0
264.0
269.0
10
45
240.0
245.0
250.0
255.0
260.0
265.0
10
44.5
237.0
242.0
247.0
252.0
257.0
262.0
44
234.0
239.0
244.0
249.0
254.0
259.0
43
231.0
236.0
241.0
246.0
251.0
256.0
42.5
228.0
233.0
238.0
243.0
248.0
253.0
42
225.0
230.0
235.0
240.0
245.0
250.0
41
221.0
226.0
231.0
236.0
241.0
246.0
40.5
218.0
223.0
228.0
233.0
238.0
243.0
40
215.0
220.0
225.0
230.0
235.0
240.0
39.5
212.0
217.0
222.0
227.0
232.0
237.0
Above you have seen the girth table in English sizes for men and woman where we explain that on these
tables the number F or 6 are the medium girth measurements.
On the next pages we will show the girth tables for kids and the American sizing system.
Girth measurements
17
3
S/Narrow
6
M/Medium
8
W/Wide
35
182.5
187.5
192.5
197.5
202.5
207.5
212.5
217.5
34
178.5
183.5
188.5
193.5
198.5
203.5
208.5
213.5
33
175.0
180.0
185.0
190.0
195.0
200.0
205.0
210.0
32
171.0
176.0
181.0
186.0
191.0
196.0
201.0
206.0
31
167.5
172.5
177.5
182.5
187.5
192.5
197.5
202.5
30
163.5
168.5
173.5
178.5
183.5
188.5
193.5
198.5
29
160.0
165.0
170.0
175.0
180.0
185.0
190.0
195.0
28
156.0
161.0
166.0
171.0
176.0
181.0
186.0
191.0
27
152.0
157.0
162.0
167.0
172.0
177.0
182.0
187.0
26
148.0
153.0
158.0
163.0
168.0
173.0
178.0
183.0
25
144.0
149.0
154.0
159.0
164.0
169.0
174.0
179.0
24
140.0
145.0
150.0
155.0
160.0
165.0
170.0
175.0
23
136.5
141.5
146.5
151.5
156.5
161.5
166.5
171.5
22
132.5
137.5
142.5
147.5
152.5
157.5
162.5
167.5
21
129.0
134.0
139.0
144.0
149.0
154.0
159.0
164.0
20
125.0
130.0
135.0
140.0
145.0
150.0
155.0
160.0
19
121.0
126.0
131.0
136.0
141.0
146.0
151.0
156.0
18
117.0
122.0
127.0
132.0
137.0
142.0
147.0
152.0
18
Girth measurements
Supplements take space; the contents of the Girth are reduced by it.
When we need to add inside of the shoe a supplement (= insole inlay support) we must calculate a
higher content for the Girth measure otherwise the
shoe will fit too tightly.
For example: total Girth measure = X, thickness of
insole inlay support = 4 mm.
(Fig.6)
(Fig.7)
(Fig.8)
Girth measurements
From both figures it becomes clear that as less difference exists in cm between the length and width, how
large the surface is, with the same outline measure.
When we draw a ball line longer (=larger) from the
insole of the last construction then the contents of the
ball part will become smaller. As a result, the toes get
less freedom to move.
19
(Fig.9)
(Fig.10)
The next table concerns USA size system for girth width.
(These measurements are the width of the feet)
From point 1 to point 2
USA size system for width. measurements are made in Inches.
is feet length.
AAA AA
A
B
C
D
E
EE
EEE
3A
2A
2E
3E
The length of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 1/3 Inch ( 8.46 mm).
The width of each USA shoe size increase or decrease with 3/16 Inch ( 4.76 mm).
20
Girth measurements
These are USA sizing system Girth tables for width measurements.
These measurements are shown the width of the foot and not like the European tables who
are mea-surements all around the foot!
US Woman Sizes
Narrow
Average
Wide
X-Wide
2.81
3.19
3.56
3.94
5.5
2.88
3.25
3.63
2.94
3.31
3.69
4.06
6.5
3.38
3.75
4.13
3.06
3.44
3.81
4.19
7.5
3.13
3.5
3.88
4.25
3.19
3.56
3.94
4.31
8.5
3.25
3.63
4.38
3.31
3.69
4.06
4.44
9.5
3.38
3.75
4.13
4.5
10
3.44
3.81
4.19
4.56
10.5
3.5
3.88
4.25
4.63
11
3.56
3.94
4.31
4.69
11.5
3.63
4.38
4.75
12
3.69
4.06
4.44
4.81
12.5
3.75
4.13
4.5
4.88
13
3.81
4.19
4.56
4.94
US Mens Sizes
C/Narrow
D/Medium
E/Wide
3.3"
3.5"
3.7"
6.5
3.3"
3.6"
3.8"
3.4"
3.6"
3.8"
7.5
3.4"
3.7"
3.9"
3.5"
3.8"
3.9"
8.5
3.6"
3.8"
4.0"
3.6"
3.9"
4.1"
9.5
3.7"
3.9"
4.1"
10
3.8"
4.0"
4.2"
10.5
3.8"
4.1"
4.3"
11
3.9"
4.1"
4.3"
11.5
3.9"
4.2"
4.4"
12
4.0"
4.3"
4.4"
12.5
4.1"
4.3"
4.5"
13
4.1"
4.4"
4.6"
13.5
4.2"
4.4"
4.8"
14
4.2
4.5"
4.9"
Girth measurements
21
These pictures explain where to find the girth points and other importand points on the
shoe last.
By using a measuring tape we link A
and B.
Point A lies
approximately 3 cm
above the lower
back part of the last.
Point B, lies in the
middle of the lower
front part of the last.
(See Fig. 14)
Fig.16)
Point B is the nose top line of the last.
The number of cm. divided by 2 we put this part in
90 degrees up of from measure tape to the middle
of the last.
Point D is the Instep point. (See Fig. 16)
Fig.14)
Fig.15)
By using a measuring tape we link A and B.
The total length in cm is then visible.
We calculated 1/3 part of the total length in cm.
Using the measure tape we put this 1/3 part in 90
degrees up to the middle line of the last.
This point we call point C.
Fig.17)
Point E, is the last girth point, this girth point you will
find on a new last (See Fig. 17)
22
Girth measurements
REMINDER;
Fig.18)
Fig.19)
Fig.20)
Girth measurements
23
There are many different tables for Sizes and Girth measurements.
This table is from an USA Sport Shoe Company and used ONLY for Men sizes!
JAPAN
Width
(mm)
Girth
(mm)
Girth
(inch)
89.30
233.36
9 3/16 24.5
90.40
236.54
9 5/16
91.50
239.71
92.60
BRZ
ARG
Fr.sizes
(mm)
EUR
UK
USA
36.5
37
253.08
38
24.5
37
38
259.74
39
5.5
6.5
9 7/16
25
38
39
266.40
40
242.89
9 9/16
25.5
38.5
39.5
269.73
40.5
6.5
7.5
93.70
246.06
9
11/16
26
39
40
273.06
41
94.80
249.24
9
13/16
26.5
40
41
279.72
42
7.5
8.5
95.90
252.41
9
15/16
27
40.5
41.5
283.05
42.5
97.00
255.59
10
1/16
27.5
41
42
286.38
43
8.5
9.5
98.10
258.59
10
3/16
28
42
43
293.04
44
10
99.20
261.94
10
5/16
28.5
42.5
43.5
296.37
44.5
9.5
10.5
100.30
265.11
10
7/16
29
43
44
299.70
45
10
11
101.40
268.29
10
9/16
29.5
44
45
306.36
46
10.5
11.5
102.50
271.46
10
11/16
30
44.5
45.5
309.69
46.5
11
12
103.60
274.54
10
13/16
30.5
45
46
313.02
47
11.5
12.5
104.70
277.81
10
15/16
31
46
47
319.68
48
12
13
106.90
284.16
11
3/16
32
47
48
326.34
49
13
14
*** The widths sizes between the lengths sizes used (USA) are mainly 3/16 of an Inch, is
equal on 4.76 mm. In the EU the widths sizes between the lengths sizes used are 5 mm.
24
Girth measurements
These two pictures are used by shoe technical institutes for controlling the
length and girth measurements.
Picture show the measurement device for the total girth inside the shoe.
Many years of my own experience and checking a lot of tables from all over the world tell me that when we
think logically, a shoe must fit and be comfortable for our feet no matter if they are athletic, casual, or fashion.
The fact is that the length of our feet, the girth measurements, and freedom for our toes plus the wiggle room
of 15 mm will give us very good fitting and comfortable shoes.
How to measure for making comfortable and good fitting shoes will be explained in the next chapters.
25
26
Points
Description
A-B
B-D
Feet length
A-D
A-C
E-F
E-F
K-L
K-L
E-C
C-F
E-G
G
F-H
P
Shoe size
example
UK size
7
7
7
7
7
7
Measurement
Calculations
32 x 8.46 = 270.72 mm,
(count 271 mm) =10.67
inch
Using the width table for
medium width 9.17 inch
0.59 inch
10.67 inch less 0.59 =
10.08 inch
62% from 9.17 inch =
5.69 inch
80 degrees
7
7
7
7
7
7
7
92 degrees
Point G
78 degrees
10.67 inch x 20% = 2.13
inch
Point N
27
(Fig.1)
28
29
(Fig.3)
30
31
(Fig.6)
32
(Fig.7)
33
(Fig.8)
34
35
36
How to make correct insole patterns for the shoe last with feet blue prints.
Making the correct shoe last for persons who like to
wear custom made shoes, we have to measure and
making the blue print of the feet.
We start with the blue print and measure the length and the width of the feet.
We use for this example: feet length 260 mm. and
Girth measurement 238 mm, see Fig.1.
Fig.2, here you can see how to draw the insole for the
feet blue print. Feet length: 260 mm + 15 mm = last
length: 275 mm.
Last length: 275 mm less 5 mm back off line = insole
length: 270 mm (see page 31, fig.6)
(Fig.1.)
(Fig.2.)
37
(Fig.3.)
(Fig.4.)
(Fig.5.)
38
Last Construction 39
40
Last Construction
Points
Descriptions
Length measure
(A-B)
Last length in mm
Extra length
(B-D)
2
15 mm for Women and Mens lasts
(A-D)
(P-C1)
Golden cut
Instep point
(N)
foot length
(C)
(C-C )
(C-C1)
Toe height
(B-B1)
Variable
Heel height
(A-A1)
Variable
(A -G)
Variable
Toe thickness
D -D )
Variable
(J)
(K)
(E)
(A -E)
Variable
(A -F
(A1-F)
Variable
(A -H)
Variable
(H)
Last height
(A1-G)
Standard height of 70 mm
(A )
1
1
Last Construction
41
(Fig.9)
42
Last Construction
(Fig.10)
Last Construction
43
Also you can use the table 32, from the German
Last factory Behrens.
With the same data of table 32 of Behrens, we see
the Girth measure in millimeters.
(Fig.11)
44
Last Construction
Last Construction
45
46
Last Construction
For size 42 the point of the heel arc bow line, lays
30 mm above point A1.
This point we call point H.
By 2 sizes more or - less, the distance between A1
H becomes 1 mm more or -less.
(Fig.14)
Last Construction
47
REMARKS:
As we can see there are many points we need to consider to make the correct fitting lasts.
The experience and the know how for making lasts is very important.
The correct data will give you a good direction for making and controlling a last.
We are allowed to change some points as long as we know how to compensate this.
It must be clear that the type of lasts depends of the type of shoes we want to make.
Professional skill is therefore needed.
(Fig.15)
With this picture you can see what happens when the
standard measures are not respected!
This mistake you can find by many lasts and shoes.
Here you can see that the foot is pushed too much to
the front part due to the wrong Girth point.
A bad fit is the result. The toes will be damaged and the
foot will slip out of the shoe (Fig.16)
(Fig.16)
48
Last Construction
Control and measure the lasts for producing the correct shoe types.
(Fig.17)
Last Construction
49
(Fig.18)
On Fig.19 you can see that point B is made
too much inside of the last and will hurt the
feet during walking.
It can happened that also point A is too much
inside and that the heel rounding is too round
what will give the shoe an ugly look.
Sometimes point B is too close to the winkle
at heel height and that results that your foot
is slipping out during walking.
(Fig.19)
(Fig.20)
50
Proportions
51
CHAPTER 6: PROPORTIONS
52
Proportions
Their findings as comparative material have not lost their value even today.
It is almost impossible that two people are built with the exact same proportions. However, after a large
number of comparitive measuring, a standard norm has been established.
Proportions
53
The golden cut is the partitioning of a line part in extreme and middle proportion.
A calculation from this proportion until 3 decimal places provides closely 0,618: 1 or approximately 5: 8.
This implies that a line of 1000 mm after dividing according to the Golden cut the largest piece 618 mm
and the smallest piece 382 mm measures.
The value is not exactly calculable; she can be determined only by geometrical construction as follows;
Example: basic line A-B is 10 cm, line part A-C is 5
cm.
Connect with a line the points B-C.
Using a passer, the length from A-C, make a circle
from point C. We name the cutting point on line part
C-B, point D.
Measure afterwards with the passer the length from
B-D.
From point B with the passer circle out point E on the
basic line A-B.
The human body has been built according to the proportions of the Golden cut (therefore also the foot).
The best possible way for making shoes is also using
the Golden cut principle.
The professional designer always looks for the proportions within the shoe.
When the proportions of the shoe conform with the
proportions of the foot, then they are in harmony.
Entirely good proportions arise by standards norms.
We have applied these standards throughout this
book and to lasts - and basic pattern models.
54
55
56
Balmorals
A Balmoral (or "Bal") refers to
the way an Oxford style shoe
ties up.
A Balmoral is far less adjustable
than a Blucher because the
bottom of the lace-up part of the
shoe is sewn down, so the part
of the shoe around the ball of the
foot can only be one
Brogues
were
traditionally
considered to be outdoor or
country footwear not otherwise
appropriate for casual or
business occasions, but brogues
are now considered appropriate
in most contexts.
57
Derby shoe
ADerbyorGibson(also
called aBlcheror bucks)
is a style ofshoecharacterized
byshoelaceeyelet tabs that are
sewn on top of the vamp, a
(Detail of a man's derby style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp).
58
Wellington boot
TheWellington boot
also known asrubber-boots,wellies,wellingtons,topboots,Billyboots,gumboots,gummies,barn boots, Wellie boots,muck
boots,sheep boots,shit-kickers orrain bootsare a type ofbootbased
uponleatherHessian boots.
They were worn and popularized byArthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of
Wellington. This novel "Wellington" boots then became a fashionable
style emulated by the Britisharistocracyin the early 19th century.
Moccasin
Amoccasin
is aslippermade ofdeerskinor
other soft leather, consisting of a
sole and sides made of one piece
of leather, stitched together at the
top, and sometimes with a vamp
(additional panel of leather).
Opanak
are a kind of traditional shoes
worn
inSerbia,Bosnia,
Herzegovina,
Croatia,
MacedoniaandBulgaria. The
attributes of the Opanci are: a
construction ofleather, lack of
laces, durable, and have hornlike ending on toes.
59
Monk shoe
Amonk shoe
is a style ofshoewith no
lacing, closed by a buckle
and strap. It is moderately
formal
shoe:
less
formal
than a fullOxford(American:
Balmorals); but more so than an
openDerby (American: Blcher).
Boat shoes
Boat shoes(also known
asdeck shoesortopsiders)
are typically canvas or leather
with non-marking rubber sole
designed for use on a boat.
Modern boat shoes were invented
in 1935 by Paul Sperry after
noticing his dog's ability to run
easily over ice without slipping.
Boat shoes are traditionally
Slip-on shoe
Slip-ons
are
typically
low,
lacelessshoes. The style most
commonly seen, known as
aloaferin American culture, has
a moccasinconstruction. First
appearing in the mid-1930s from
Norway, they began as casual
shoes, but have increased in
60
61
Norwegian construction
Every single centimeter of leather is stretched, tacked, and sewn by hand on the last, together with a single
welt. The welt is made rigorously by hand bordered asymmetrically along the profile of the insole lining.
Stitch-Down construction
The upper is stretched over the last, folded or flanged
out and glued to the midsole. They are then stitched
with a lockstitch machine and cement bonded to
the soles using a neoprene adhesive. A lockstitch has
a top and bottom stitch which is inter-stitched. This
stitching will not unravel even if a stitch is removed.
62
63
Technology.
A Goodyear welted shoe is made with two stitching:
The first one called Goodyear is realized with the
Goodyear machine. It joins the welt, the upper, and
the insole.
64
65
66
shoe.
shoe.
67
Upper;
Typical classic
styles, mainly made in
leather or action leather.
like
soccer,
squash,
badminton, table tennis
and others.
combined.
68
shoe,
using
materials
and
combinations.
trendy
color
Paper Patterns
69
70
Paper Patterns
This picture show the most common names of the shoe parts.
Paper Patterns 71
Sizes
In mm
Sport shoe
Heights
Sizes
In mm
Normal shoe
Heights
24
54
24
44
25
55
25
45
26
55
26
45
27
56
27
46
28
56
28
46
29
57
29
47
30
57
30
47
31
60
31
48
32
61
32
49
33
63
33
51
34
63
34
51
35
64
35
52
36
66
36
53
37
66
37
54
38
67
38
55
39
69
39
56
40
69
40
57
41
70
41
58
42
72
42
59
43
72
43
60
44
73
44
61
45
75
45
62
46
75
46
63
47
76
47
64
72
Paper Patterns
Before we start making paper patterns we need to find and mark the construction points from
the last.
This will be a good help for making the paper last copy and later the paper patterns.
(Fig.1)
By the middle of the measuring tape we connect
A and B.
Now the measuring tape is with the French and English
sizes visible, based on the number of centimeters
we found in Fig.1 (for example 30 cm.) we count 30
French sizes.
With the same number in French sizes we
see on the measuring tape, we put a straight
line in 90 degrees to the centerline of the last.
This point is C, Vamp length point.
(See Fig.2)
(Fig.2)
Paper Patterns
(Fig.3)
73
(Fig.5)
(Fig.4)
(Fig.6)
74
Paper Patterns
(Fig.7)
All found points will be connecting to
another point.
Point D is the instep point.
(See Fig.7)
(Fig.9)
Point X is on the back part last line, just at the
intersection of the line and the sole heel area of the
last.
Point H is found by connecting points F and X, 2 / 3
part of the distance from X to point H.
Point H is called the quarter support point.
(See Fig.9)
(Fig.8)
Instep point D is drawn at the middle line of the last
and will used as a baseline.
From point D draw one line at a 90 degree line on
the instep
C - D, in order to obtain a helpline from D to D 1.
(See Fig. 8)
Paper Patterns 75
(Fig.10)
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
To make a wet last copy we take a usual packing paper and cut this paper around the last and then give a
few cuttings as you see on the Illustration.
With small foam we make the paper a little bid wet with normal water. Do not make the paper too wet!
The outlines of the last we mark with a black marker, mainly a black cool marker is ok for it.
Mark as well the girth and instep points as later you will need them.
91
Put the last carefully on slightly wet paper. Make sure that you put the wet paper against the black market lines
without moving the wet paper in any direction.
This part is not easy as you need to practice several times in the beginning. After finding your way, you will be
able to make a last copy within a few minutes.
See as well the illustrations.
When you have pushed the wet paper against the black lines on the last you can see now these black lines
appear on the wet paper, see illustration right side under.
92
After you have made from the last, the copy from
the lateral and the medial side you must make the
medium paper copy of the last. Draw first the lateral
copy on flat paper with the 3 marked points as you
can see on the illustration at the left upper corner and
then you draw the medial paper copy inside.
Important is that both paper copies are crossing
parallel with each other at the points A and B. Now
you draw a line exactly between the lateral and
medial paper last copies as you see on the illustration
below (red stipple lines). This new line you cut out
93
94
Names of construction points and lines in the copy for low cut paper patterns
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
95
(Fig.1)
To get the correct proportion of a shoe design on your last copy we set-up construction lines
as following;
1. Set your paper copy out on the correct heel height A-A1. Make sure that the inside of your copy rest
on the basic line A-B.
2. Point C 1 you find in the same way as we explained on page 72, point C (Fig.2)
3. Point C you find in the same way as we explained on page 73, point F (Fig.5)
4. Point C3 is the half part of C-C1
5. Point C4 is 1/3 part of C-C1
6. Point A2 is the correct quarter height for your shoe size and you find this table on
page 67
7. Line A-D is 15 mm shorter than line A-B
8. Point C2 we calculate from line A-D, where A-C2 is 62% from line A-D
9. After finding the points you see on Fig.1, connect all the points with lines.
96
(Fig.2)
The Instep helpline and the Lay on helpline we find as following;
1.
2.
3.
4.
Point F we find in the same way as you see on page 73, point D (Fig.3)
Point H we explain on page 74, (Fig.9)
Connect the points C3-H
Draw the line F-G as you see on Fig.2
97
Illustration A
Illustration B
98
Derby Blucher
99
Derby Blucher
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Toecap
Vamp
Yelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Lateral quarter part
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
Folding line
Quarter flap line
Vamp quarter line
Lateral quarter line
Medial quarter line
Quarter lay-on line
Tongue line
101
Illustration 1
Illustration 2
e
Und
r-lay
Illustration 3
Derby Blucher
103
(Fig.2)
The quarter line (lateral) of a Blucher is not an easy line to draw.
Create a distribution of the help lines (see picture) so it is somewhat easier to draw the quarter line
in the appropriate way. (Fig.2)
(Fig.3)
The dotted line A is the normal quarter line, line B is a quarter line that is drawn too high. The quarter
Line B will cut in the foot and will hurt the ankle, while the design of the quarterback will look to heavy
(Fig.3).
(Fig.4)
Dotted line A is the normal quarter line. Quarter Line B is a quarter line that is drawn too low.
Quarter Line B will yawn and therefore will stay open from the last, because the lines are very close
to the flanks of the last. (Fig.4)
(Fig.5)
The modeling of a low shoe type has a medial and lateral quarter line. This is necessary in
connection with the arches; the arch is medially higher than laterally. Both quarter construction
lines indicate how the quarter lines must be drawn. (Fig.5)
Derby Blucher
105
(Fig.6)
On Illustration 1, the quarter back part line
is a line that must fit perfectly on the last.
It is very important that we draw the quarter
back part line, 3 mm inside the paper copy.
At the heel height we draw the quarter back
part line 2 mm outside the paper copy in
order to give space for the counter between the
lining and upper leather.
Fig.7)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby must follow as close as possible to the construction lines
of the paper copy (A).The vamp quarter line we draw 4 mm below the lateral quarter line in order to
get enough and good instep space. (See fig.7).
(Fig.8)
Fig. 8, see the correct quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape.
Derby Blucher
107
(Fig.9)
The quarter flaps from the Blucher Derby are drawn to round below the construction lines (A). This
will result in an ugly look for this type of shoe (Fig.9).
(Fig.10)
Fig.10, see the quarter flaps from a Blucher Derby on the last shape when the lines are not correctly
drawn.
(Fig.11)
Illustration 1, the lay-on lines we draw in a
way that we have enough space on the quarter
between the quarter line and lay-on line, for
adding an application stitching.
The trenches we stitch on the quarters are 12
mm long for thin calf leather, and 15 mm long
for thicker leather. The trenches we stitch 10 mm
above the lay-on line.
Derby Blucher
109
(Fig. 12)
After we have drawn the quarter part and
trenches we set-up the folding line points.
(A folding line is the line where we fold the
paper in order to make the vamp and other
parts of the paper patterns).
The folding point for the vamp we set-up with a
winkle.
(Fig.13
Fig.13, point 1 we found with the winkle, point
2 we find at the top of the last and set-up on the
paper pattern, 3 mm inside of the paper copy.
The measurement for point 2 is the distance
between the sole side and the nose-top of the
last. At this point 2, the folding line lay under the
last copy. Here we save leather material and
by montage the upper on the last we get fewer
wrinkles. The leather between the trenches on
(Fig.14)
After finding the points 1 and 2 we can draw the folding line 3 on the paper pattern (Fig.14).
Derby Blucher
111
(Fig.15)
Fig.15 shows clearly how we need to drawn a folding line for a Blucher Derby.
Winkle A, is the correct way, equal to the copy line C1-F.
Winkle B, is in the wrong way, too low and under the instep point.
Winkle C, is in the wrong way, too high above the instep point.
It is VERY IMPORTANT that you set-up the folding line correct, by not set-up the folding line correctly
it will influence the fitting and the look of the shoe in a very negative way.
112
Derby Blucher
(Fig.16)
For the montage of the upper on the last we
need to fold the upper material on the insole.
How much we need to extend on the upper
material depends on;
(Fig.17)
The length for the tongue we can measure
exactly. Measure the length from the end of the
trench point A and instep point B. Then from the
same trench point A we set out the same length
to the folding vamp line point C. We extend this
Derby Blucher
113
(Fig.18)
When we know the correct measurement of the
tongue we can draw the tongue line with a small
curve between the quarter help lines.
(Fig.19)
(Fig.20)
When we draw the tongue we make several times and the feet gets less protection especially at the
the mistake at the beginning of folded vamp line. first point of eyelets and laces (See Fig.20).
The tongue line we draw is too small at this place
(Fig.21)
Also it happens that we draw the tongue line too
round, (see by point B) here count the same as
we explain by Fig.20.
Derby Blucher
115
(Fig.22)
The small lace or eyelet holes we set-up in general When we want to put bigger lace or eyelets
10 to 12 mm from the sides of the quarter flaps. holes we must add them with greater distances
The distance between them is around 15 mm.
from each other. Reinforce the quarter flaps,
We must take care that we dont put them to especially when you use thin upper leathers.
close to the sides, because during the closing of (Fig.22)
the laces we risk that they will tear out.
(Fig.23)
It is VERY IMPORTANT that the quarter top shoe it will damage the ankle and make it almost
part lines (see A and B) are drawn UNDER the impossible to walk (Fig.23).
medial and lateral quarter help lines. When Later in this book I will explain how to draw these
you draw these points A and B higher, than the quarter top part lines for Sportive shoes.
(Fig.24)
To draw the quarter lining must be done very
carefully. The quarter lining must fit perfectly in
the upper quarter part. The patterns for the lining
we make 4 mm bigger at the quarter flaps as
then we can stitch the lining better to the upper
material. Especially take care at the end of the
(Fig.25)
The vamp lining we draw 2 mm under the folding
line at the nose-part from the upper material.
At the tongue we make the vamp lining 2 mm
larger for stitching the vamp lining to the upper.
By the end of the trenches both parts
(quarter and vamp) of the lining fit perfectly
Derby Blucher
117
(Fig.26)
1. Draw on your paper copy the help lines.
2. Draw the eyelet stay, point B. 10 mm to the front direction from point A, Fig.26.
(Here we get a better instep for the feet)
(Fig.27)
we need to enlarge
(Fig.28)
(Fig.29)
For your design there are many ways how to make the inside look of the shoe
with Velcro straps. You can add extra pieces from upper materials, using big
eyelets in the eyelets strap or only one piece of upper material, see Fig.29.
Derby Blucher
119
120
Balmoral 121
122 Balmoral
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Toecap
Vamp
Yelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Lateral quarter part
Quarter back part
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
Folding line
Quarter flap line
Vamp quarter line
Lateral quarter line
Medial quarter line
G. Tongue line
H. Quarter back line
J. Quarter back part line
K. Toecap line
L. Montage folding line
M. Paper copy line
Balmoral
123
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, see the upper parts without any underlay or extra material for finish the model lines.
A Balmoral refers to the way an Oxford style shoe ties
up.
A Balmoral is far less adjustable than a Blucher because the bottom of the lace-up part of the shoe is
sewn down, so the part of the shoe around the ball of
the foot can only be one circumference and cannot be
adjusted smaller or larger.
124 Balmoral
(Fig.2)
Balmoral Oxford Style, (Fig.2).
With this standard type the quarter part is stitched under the vamp. The closing of this shoe can be
made only at the instep part. See the difference with the Derby/Blucher shoe type.
(Fig.3)
The vamp folding line from a Balmoral shoe we under the copy line because here the vamp and
draw from vamp height point A to nose point B. quarter part are stitched together. If we draw the
Nose point B we find as we already explained vamp folding line by A under the copy line, than
by the Derby shoe type. Point A we dont draw the vamp will not fit correctly to the last (Fig.3).
Balmoral
125
(Fig.4)
The folding vamp line we draw as you can see
on Fig.4. Be sure that on point A you draw that
line with a curve starting by point B, point B
(Fig.5)
Fig.5 shows the upper on the last. Vamp height
point A will be pushed less than the points B
to the front during the montage from the upper
126 Balmoral
(Fig.6)
Here we see the stipple line from the vamp line B. This vamp line is not following the help line and
will look ugly as it is not made in harmony of the last shape, Fig.6.
(Fig.7)
Fig.7 shows the upper on the last.
The vamp line by the points A-B-C is looking too big and not in harmony with the last shape.
Balmoral
127
(Fig.8)
Illustration 1, here you see a normal vamp line Illustration 3, the quarter part is looking too
and you will have enough space for making a small (see stipple line) and also not nice when
nice application on your quarter part of the shoe. the shoe is ready.
Illustration 2, the quarter part is looking to wide
(see stipple line) and not nice when the shoe is
ready.
128
Balmoral
(Fig.9)
The lay-under part by this Balmoral type is at depending of the leather thickness, the stitching
the vamp folding line at least 12 mm and is rows, and how we finish the cutting lines of the
going back to 10 mm. This lay-under part is also leather (Fig.9).
(Fig.10)
For this Balmoral type we see in general a wing toecap.
To draw this wing toecap in the correct way we use a construction nose line, see Fig.10.
Balmoral
129
(Fig.11)
A standard wing toecap we draw as you can see on fig.11. The length of the standard wing toecap
is the half of the last copy.
(Fig.12)
The standard length of the back part quarter drawing of this standard back part quarter we
at the quarter heel height is 1/8 part of the last must take care that we make this part not too
length. At the sole side the standard back part small, see Fig.12
quarter is 1/4 part of the last length. During
130 Balmoral
(Fig.13)
We draw the standard back part quarter as you can see in the Illustration but in fact we can draw
any design we find suitable for the design of our shoe. Take for this part always 10 mm under lay
(Fig.13).
(Fig.14)
At the eyelet stay we can draw a stitching line in harmony with this type of model.
Draw the stitching row with a wide of 25 mm on the eyelet stay and draw it then to the lateral instep
point A, (Fig.14).
Balmoral
131
(Fig.15)
The small laces or eyelet holes we put normally when we close the laces strongly. Use always
between 10 and12 mm from the model line see reinforcement material underneath these holes.
Fig.15. Important is that these holes are not to
close to each other otherwise they can tear out
(Fig.16)
Fig.16, see how to draw the vamp lining. We of material on the flanks of the last (shoe). The
draw 5 mm before the upper leather vamp line folding line of the vamp lining we draw as well at
the vamp lining line A, in order to prevent too the nose point 2 mm inside of the copy line. At
much material thickness at that line. After this the lining folding part (for montage the upper) we
point A we draw the vamp lining line more to deduct 5 mm of the lining for better gluing of the
the front specially to prevent too much thickness upper to the insole of the shoe.
132 Balmoral
(Fig.17)
The quarter lining we must draw very exactly into The quarter lining is by line A, 10 mm longer
the upper otherwise the lining will not fit at all. then the vamp lining by line B. The vamp lining
Fig.17, you see where to shorten and where to is underneath of the quarter lining and will be
give extra material for the lining.
stitched together by line A.
(Fig.18)
We draw the tongue length (after we draw the copy by the instep points A.
quarter lining) 4 mm longer by point B than the The ultimate operation of the upper stitching is to
quarter lining. The width of the tongue (by instep add the tongue. The tongue length by the instep
point) is 30 mm in the paper pattern, see Fig.18. of the shoe is normally 10 mm.
The folding tongue line we draw parallel on the
Balmoral
133
(Fig.19)
When we design quarter back parts in one piece
we draw first the folding line for this part.
Take good care that you dont draw this line too
much inside the paper pattern otherwise you will
shorten the total model and all of the construction
points are going backwards.
(Fig.20)
In order the make the quarter part seam stitching This part we add to the outside quarter through
stronger often we design a lip to this quarter part the folding line A. We stitch this lip on the inside
as you can see on fig.20.
quarter.
134
Lady Pump
135
1. Vamp part
2. Medial quarter part
3. Lateral quarter part
A. Folding line
B. Vamp quarter line
C. Medial quarter line
D. Lateral quarter line
E. Quarter back line
F. Copy line
G. Montage folding line
Lady Pump
(Fig.1)
(Fig.2)
(Fig.3)
(Fig.4)
137
138
Lady Pump
(Fig.5)
(Fig.6)
(Fig.7)
(Fig.8)
Lady Pump
(Fig.9)
(Fig.10)
139
(Fig.11)
(Fig.12)
140
Lady Pump
(Fig.13)
Fig.13. shows a simple Ladys Pump design on move to point B. (Point A is the girth point of the
a heel of 20 mm. The vamp length depends on last). Use the construction lines to draw the medial
(Fig.14)
Fig.14, we draw the paper pattern. Here you see the lateral pattern of the Ladys Pump.
Lady Pump
141
(Fig.15)
Fig.15, Is the basic pattern drawn on the paper copy
and the total of the pattern for a Ladys Pump. I show
here the lateral part in one piece and the medial part
in two pieces. Mainly when we are making a pattern
for a Ladys Pump in leather we make the medial part
in two pieces to save leather material.
(Fig.16)
Fig.16 shows you the Illustrations, 1 and 2.
Illustration 1 is a Ladys Pump paper pattern with a heel height of 20 mm.
Illustration 2 is a Ladys Pump paper pattern with a heel height of 35 mm.
When you look to the folding lines A from both illustrations, the distance from A and B are different, because
of the different in heel heights.
For a Ladys Pump with different heel heights we are able to make the paper pattern in one piece what is
mainly requested for synthetic materials.
Lady Pump
143
(Fig.17)
Fig.17 shows you A, B and C patterns.
The paper patterns A and B are mainly used for
expensive leathers.
The patterns market with B we cut from a little bit less
quality leather (from the same skin).
Herewith we save leather and expense for making
this shoe.
(Fig.18)
Fig.18 is Step 1. For making the Ladys Pump paper pattern in one piece.
The lateral low instep point is the turning point of the last but also for a paper pattern.
This turning point we need to mark as you can see on fig.18.
(Fig.19)
Lady Pump
145
Fig.20 is Step 3.
Place paper pattern part C
between the quarter parts in the
middle of the folding line A of
your paper pattern.
Part C you have made already
in the beginning of your paper
pattern so that you can use it
to calculate the turning of your
quarter parts and create enough
space so that the patterns fit
perfectly together as we show
in the next Illustration.
(Fig.20)
(Fig.21)
Fig.21 is Step 4 Turn the quarter parts D (using the
turning point) more open so that quarter part C fits in
between. Vamp part B cannot be changed or moved
during this maneuver. Part B must have and keep
the shape otherwise it will be deformed during the
montage of the upper on the last.
146
Stitch-down
147
148 Stitch-down
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Vamp
Eyelets stay
Eyelets holes
Tongue
Medial quarter part
Lateral quarter part
Quarter back part lip
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
Folding line
Vamp quarter line
Medial quarter line
Lateral quarter line
Quarter back line
Copy line
Montage folding line
Stitch-down
149
(Fig.1)
Stitch-down, pieces of upper materials
Fig.1 shows you the upper pieces of a stitch-down construction shoe.
For this construction we need to change the measurement of montage folding part from 15 mm (for a normal
montage construction) to 10 mm. For this construction the folding part is not folding under the shoe but is
folded to the outside of the shoe.
This type of construction normally gives a very flexible shoe if a flexible outsole is added.
150 Stitch-down
(Fig.2)
Fig.2 shows you how to make different folding lines
from the quarter back part for a
Stitch-down paper pattern;
Strobel shoe
151
(Fig.1)
Fig.1 is a Strobel running shoe with all paper pattern pieces, the paper pattern pieces are Illustrated
WITHOUT ANY UNDERLAY on the separated pieces!
Fig.1 just gives you an Idea how many pieces an Athletic running shoe can have.
Besides these pieces there are also molds to be made for High Frequent processing.
Strobel shoe
153
(Fig.2)
Strobel Slip Last: Shoe construction method stitches
a sole-shaped fabric board to the upper of the shoe
that is slipped onto a last, closing the upper with
stitches around the perimeter of the sole.
The board may be varied from thin flexible materials
to thicker stable materials, or a combination of the
two stitched together, to improve stability or flexibility
(Fig.2).
(Fig.3)
154
Strobel shoe
(Fig.4)
Fig.4 shows only the outlines of this strobel pattern
as I need to explain how to proceed for strobel
construction. The standard folding line A we can
change to folding line B for the upper to cap, in this
way we shorten the line C at the front of the last. The
back part line D we increase 3 mm of the total length
from the paper pattern to make the pattern a little
bigger as we need this for the production to put the
last inside of the upper.
(Fig.5)
Fig.5 shows you how some pattern makers are
making this back part line in the paper pattern. They
are doing this because of the foam thickness we put
in the upper quarter part. In case you are doing this,
reconsider that the foam is very soft and when you
Strobel shoe
155
(Fig.6)
Fig.6 shows you how we need to make the mark
points for Strobel system.
For the montage folding we add only 2 mm to our
basic paper pattern. For the insole board pattern we
take out; 2 mm and 3 mm from the last insole pattern.
At the front, back part, lateral and medial parts
from the last insole pattern we take out
3 mm, the other parts we take out 2 mm.
This we do for the stretching of the upper materials at
these points.
(Fig.7)
Fig.7 shows you the lining for an athletic sport shoe.
The points from A to B are mainly zigzag stitched.
The points from C to D are also zigzag stitched or
glued together.
The Top quarter line is stitched and turned and give a
good look for a sports shoe.
157
Names of Construction points and lines in the paper copy for standard boot patterns
A. Folding line
B. Quarter flap line
C. Vamp quarter line
D. Vamp tongue Line
E. Upper height line
F. Quarter lay on line
G. Tongue line
(Fig.1)
For the construction of a boot we need lines for the
direction of our legs when we are standing.
These lines define leg standing in our paper copy
compared to the heel height of the boot.
It makes no difference how high the heel is because
the leg standing lines will be drawn always in 90
degrees of the basic line A-B (see Fig.1).
There are a few different ways to drawn the line J-A1.
See the red lines in the Illustration above, here we
draw a line from point A1 through point C2.
Than in 38 degrees we draw the line from A1 C2 to
the copy line.
(For each 10 mm of the heel height we calculate 1
degree more).
For example: our heel height is 20 mm high, the line
A1 J is 38 degrees
When the heel height is 30 mm than the degree must
be 1 higher, 39 degrees, etc, etc.
The line A1 C2 determine the first leg line O P.
The line O - P stands in 90 degrees on line A B.
161
(Fig.2)
Standard height for a boot for size 42 is 120 mm. We
can calculate the standard height for boots with the
Golden Cut for any size we need to make.
Important is that we ALWAYS use the Last length,
NOT the Feet length!
Fig.2 shows you how to setup the golden cut on your
drawing. We start always from the heel height.
The standard boot height we put always 15 mm higher
(for all sizes) than the point you find with the golden
cut.
162
(Fig.3)
Fig.3 explains how to connect and find the correct
points and lines for a standard boot design.
Important for the start is to know the size and the girth
measurement from the shoe we need to make.
Our example; size 42 and with a girth measurement
of 240 mm.
Girth measurement = 240 mm less 10 mm = 230 mm
is Ankle measurement.
230 mm: 2 = 115 mm is the half ankle size.
part of the ankle size is 230 mm: 4 = 57, 5 mm
parts from the ankle size we setup from the middle
leg standing line L-M to the front this will be point R.
The same part we setup to the back and this will be
point S.
R-S is the half ankle size on the line A3- P (See Fig.3).
163
(Fig.4)
Fig.4 shows you a standard Blucher boot at the ankle height in the correct harmonious proportions.
If you want to design a fantasy model in your paper pattern setup then always use the standard
boot template, so that you are always sure that your design will fit properly on the last.
(Fig.5)
For designing a higher boot than the standard boot
we need to add extra construction lines with the leg
measurements.
Except for the line P1-A3, we start as usual with the
construction lines and points for the standard boot.
For every 40 mm we are making the boot higher
than the standard boot we increase 10 mm for the
leg wide.
We explained that for size 42 the girth measurement
is 240 mm, the ankle measurement is 10 mm less =
230 mm.
The leg measurement is for each 40 mm higher
extra 10 mm wider;
Ankle measurement plus 10 mm = leg
measurement = 240 mm.
(Every 10 mm higher = 2 mm wider for the leg
measurement).
165
(Fig.6)
Fig.6 shows you a higher boot than the normal
standard boot.
The constructions for standard designs we setup in
order to get harmonious proportions.
The construction as I have explained, you can use
for the most of standard designs as they are always
the same.
(Fig.7)
For the standard Blucher boot we make the lining as for the low cut Blucher.
Fig.7 shows you how many millimeters to take in at the back part line.
(Fig.8)
The vamp lining we make the pattern the same as for the low cut shoe (Fig.8)
167
(Fig.9)
In many boots you will be asked to make a water
tongue pattern.
Draw the water tongue with the folding line B parallel
with the copy line in the same way as you see on
Fig.9. (The tongue line B cross the vamp line 10 mm
for underlay).
Tongue line A we draw exactly through the trench
point and parallel with the folding line B as well.
(Fig.10)
The half of the water tongue is made when you draw
the underlay between the folding lines A and B, at
the vamp and tongue line.
The next step: you duplicate parts 1 and 2 on the
folding line B, (see Fig.10).
The water tongue is now complete.
Moccasin
169
170 Moccasin
(Fig.1)
Fig.1 shows you the paper pattern of a moccasin
low cut shoe.
Here I have drawn only the lateral side of this
shoe type so that it is easier to understand.
Important is that you mark the points 1,2 and 3
on the insole of the last and on the basic pattern
as you can see on Fig.1.
Where we stitch together the moccasin and
the plateau by hand, we need also to mark the
stitching points on the paper pattern.
These stitching points we setup between 4mm
or 5 mm from each other.
Fig.2 we explain this on the next page.
(Fig.2)
Moccasin
171
(Fig.3)
After we cut out the quarter/ vamp part from the
paper pattern we line up the mark points 2 and 3 on
the last insole as shown on Fig.3.
Starting with point A we move the quarter/vamp
pattern each time a little to the front in the direction
of point B. Here we must take care that the quarter/
vamp pattern lines up exactly with the last insole
pattern.
172 Moccasin
Line C
(Fig.4)
Fig.4, here you see the result from the quarter/vamp pattern by the line C.
At the middle line from the quarter/vamp and last insole pattern we close the lateral and medial parts. (see
then the next illustration)
Moccasin
173
Line C
Montage folding part
Half length last insole
Montage folding part
(Fig.5)
We mark the stitching points on the stretched quarter/
vamp pattern (Lateral and medial).
Control that you make the same amount of stitching
points on the quarter/vamp pattern as on your unstretched quarter/vamp pattern (See Fig.5).
174
175
(Fig.1)
Part C from the T-Band design you turn and setup to the folding line A B.
By turning this part to the folding line A B (see turning point for part D) you draw the stipple line D, see Fig.1.
Part D you extend for the strap flap, see part E.
(Fig.2)
Strap part F you extend 3 mm above the last copy, see Fig.2.
We extend the strap of a T-Band shoe because this strap must go through the vamp flap and need therefore
extra upper material. Point G is the point where we add a shoe buckle for closing the shoe.
177
(Fig.1)
1. Draw the vamp design in your paper pattern as you
see under point A.
2. Turn the vamp by using the turn point between the
lateral and medial quarter help lines.
3. Turn the vamp to folding line B, this folding line we
setup from the girth point to the step in point. Here
we need to find a balance line between the girth and
the step in point as you see on Fig.1.
By higher heel boots you will get a bigger difference
between the girth and instep point. By turning the
vamp design down to point B you will get much less
179
(Fig.2)
Fig.2 shows you the underlay from the quarter part
and the lining of the boot.
The blue stipple line is the lining in the boot.
Mainly you find in many boots the lining is too big,
especially in the parts where I mention 5 mm.
Make the lining narrow enough otherwise it will
damage the feet.
180
182
Cutting Edges
Cutting Edges
183
184
Pattern Grading
185
2.5 mm
6.66 mm
Heel heigth
With the medial site and with the correct heel height,
we draw the last copy on the base line.
Do the following;
A. Make a last copy of the smallest size,
B. Make a last copy of the biggest size,
C. Measure the length and height and divide
the measurement of the smallest and the
biggest size,
Pattern Grading
187
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig.3 After you had select
inverse, go to the menu bar
and choose layer > layer via
copy.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Pattern Grading
189
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig.9 in this illustration you
see the France sizes 36 till 40.
You can make any size you
want.
What you need are the correct
scaling tables.
These scaling tables that
I have created are based
on many years of my shoe
experience.
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig. 10
Fig.10 shows you the grading
from insoles and basic patterns
in different sizes.
These patterns are made in the
same way as the last copies BUT
with different scaling tables.
Fig. 11
Fig.11 here you see the basic pattern without the
background of the last copy. For every part of my
pattern I have made a shape layer what I can use
later for printing out different sizes. This shape layers
are not visible for now.
Pattern Grading
191
Fig. 12
Fig.13 Line up the two basic
patterns against the guide
line.
To work out the pieces of the
basic pattern make on layer
50% visible.
Than from the menu bar select
layer > Merge visible, now
you have only one layer with
your basic pattern and you
can drag your basic pattern
around in one piece.
Fig. 13
Fig.14 Activate now your
shape layer and you can
work out the pieces from your
basic pattern.
Fig.14
Fig. 15
Fig.16 From the menu bar
select Edit > Transform > Flip
vertical and you see now the
other toe puff part.
Fig. 16
Fig.17 Drag the duplicate
layer from the toe puff above
the guide line and this part
must fit correctly into the basic
pattern.
Fig. 17
Pattern Grading
193
Fig.18
Fig.19 In our basic pattern
we can make the
shape layer visible we want
to print out and to use for
cutting materials.
Fig. 19
Fig.20 For making the
backpart pice as you can
see on this figure we drag
a vertical guide line into our
document and place our
basic pattern against the
guide line.
Duplicate the shape layer
and merge visible. Now you
have the backpart piece
ready for printing out for
cutting the materials.
Fig.20
Fig. 21
Fig. 22
Pattern Grading
195
Insole Grading
France
sizes
40
Length
Increase/decrease in mm.
6.66
Length in
mm.
266.40
Wide
Increase/decrease in mm.
1.4
39
6.66
259.74
1.4
87.0
38
6.66
253.08
1.4
85.6
37
6.66
246.42
1.4
84.2
36
6.66
239.76
1.4
82.8
35
6.66
233.10
1.4
81.4
Wide in mm.
88.4
Wide
Length
196
197
It is possible to create your design without an expensive shoe program into basic
patterns within minutes.
Through this system it is easy to keep your last copies and basic patterns in your folders and data
base. You can scale your designs into every shoe size or last copy.
(Fig.1)
Fig.1, Mark your last copy with the construction
points; vamp length, instep, and heel height points.
Setup measure lines in the left corner (5 cm x 5 cm)
for scanning and control your last copy, be sure that
(Fig.2)
the last copy is correct in height and length in your
program. Fig.2, Scan your last copy.
(Fig.3)
199
(Fig.4)
New layer
Pen tool
(Fig.5)
Fig.6, select a new layer and
draw on this layer the back
part and quarter top line. We
draw this line with the pen
tool.
With the direct selection tool
(A) we can change the shape
of the lines.
Pen tool
New layer
(Fig.7)
Fig.8 select your shoe design
what you want to drawn into
your last copy.
Select File >
Open > choose your folder,
Open > select > and press
Open.
(Fig.8)
Fig.9 show the design in your
Photoshop program when you
have opened correctly.
(Fig.9)
201
(Fig.10)
Fig.11 drags your design with
the move tool to your last
document.
The move tool you find on your
tools menu, see yellow circle.
(Fig.11)
Fig.12 views your design
and last copy in only one
document.
Select Window >
Arrange > Consolidate All to
tabs, see yellow circles.
(Fig.12)
(Fig.13)
Fig.14 drag with the move
tool the design as close as
possible to the construction
lines from the last copy,
confirm the new position of the
design by pressing the button
of Commit transform.
Pay attention to the Opacity
of your design layer, when
needed to see your last copy
better decrease the Opacity.
You can rotate your design
when needed.
(Fig.14)
Fig.15 selects the wrap tool.
Select Edit >
Transform >
Wrap.
See the yellow circles.
(Fig.15)
Commit transform
203
(Fig.16)
Fig.17 adds a new layer;
select the pen tool and the
path type for your document.
See yellow circles.
(Fig.17)
Fig.18 is setup for drawing the
design model lines into your
last copy.
Disable the help line layer (not
the back part and quarter top
line layer) and you can see
better the model lines of the
design.
Draw the model lines on your
new layer.
See yellow circles.
(Fig.18)
Line thickness
Brush tool
(Fig.19)
Fig.20 save your work in the
first place as Ps file.
Select File > Save as >
select your folder to keep the
document.
See the yellow circles.
When needed you can change
the model lines and or keep
the most of your work already
done for your next design on
the same last copy.
Fig.20)
Fig.21 Save your document
as Jpeg files for printing it out.
Select Layer >Flatten Image >
Save as >
See yellow circles.
(Fig.21)
Layer
with
design
205
(Fig.22)
(Fig.23)
Depended on the montage of the
shoe you can draw any system to this
basic paper pattern model.
206
207
208
alking shoes
209
unning shoes
asketball shoes
211
kate shoes
utdoor shoes
213