Pl

anno1
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2Ha
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(
c
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5Wi
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50mm x16mm
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8No6Br
a
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anno2Set
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s6-8-10-12E
CT

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5
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F
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a
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T
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Pl
anno3
1
7
mm(
1
1
/
1
6

3
5
mm(
13/
8
)

2
9
mm(
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8

4
2
mm(
15/
8

1
9
mm(
1
/
5
8

)
5
1
mm(
2

)
6
5
mm
)
(
21/
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7
6
mm(
3

)
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4
0mm(
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mm(
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5
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8

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mm(
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7
mm
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mm(
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6
7
mm(
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2
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mm
(

)
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mm

)
(
1
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2
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2
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)
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)
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2
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2
mm
(
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1
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mm
)
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6
7
mm
)
(
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3
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ll
P
anno4

T
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12mm (
1/2)
5mm (
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3/
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5mm (
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t
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80mm (
31/8
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22mm (
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12mm (
1/
2
)
3mm (
1/
8
)

T
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meni
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25mm (
1
)
12mm (
1/
2
)

45mm (
13/4
)

45mm (
m13/4
)

70mm (
23/4)

Dr
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dj
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t
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41mm
(
15/8)32mm
22mm
)
11/4
(
)
7/
8

45mm
)
(
13/4
8mm 25mm (
1
)
)
(
1/
4

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Pl
anno5

Dr
a
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Mea
s
ur
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11/8
)
10mm
s
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st
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60mm (
23/8
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20mm (
3/
4
)
a
s
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10mm br
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)
l
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(
7/
8

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46mm (
13/
4
)

197mm (
73/4
)

Pl
anno6

12mm
)
(
1/
2

19mm (
3/
4
)

2bl
oc
k
ss
i
z
e70mm (
23/4
)
)
x32mm (
11/4

70mm
(
23/4)

Dr
a
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)
(
185/8

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oc
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c
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dr
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12mm
)
(
1/
2
57mm
(
21/4
)

Dr
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)
(
133/8

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Pl
anno7
S
howi
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Pl
anno8
381mm (
15
)

127mm (
5
)
48mm (
17/8
)
134mm
(
51/4
)

113mm
)
(
41/2

134mm
)
(
51/4

495mm
)
(
191/2

S
c
a
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)
127mm45mm (
(
5
)

S
c
a
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58mm (
21/4
)

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127mm (
5
)

Making the Phils French Easel.

I designed and made this easel, it is based on the French easel design but quite a
bit stronger than the easel that you can buy in the shops today.
My easel is made out of pine using the standard timber size that can be obtained
from most good timber merchants.
The main box was made from 25 x 175mm (7x1) PSE finished size 20 x 152mm
The draw that is housed in the main box was made from (19 x 73mm (2 x 5/8)
The legs out of 75 x 50mm(3x2) PSE
And the leg extensions out of 25x25mm (1x1) PSE
All of this as I said can be brought of the peg as standard timber sizes, remember
that PSE (Planed Square Edge) is usually 5mm (1/4 ) smaller so 3 x 2 will be
2 x 1 finished size.
The main thing is to choose straight-grained clear timber (as far as possible free
from knots)

The main Box
Finished timber size 20x152mm (3/4 x 6)
2 at 380mm (15) Ends.
2 at 495mm (19 1/2) Sides.
2 at 476mm (18 ) Side inside box pieces.

The first thing to make is the box section this includes the lid, which is later cut
out by hand, on a very fine circular saw.
Start out by setting out the box using dovetail joints as shown in the plans note
that the tails and pins are equal follow the instructions as shown in the extra
setting out sheet.
Assemble the dovetail joints dry to check that the joints fit and adjust
accordingly.
Now cut out the stopped housing joints on the inside of the end pieces, I used a
router for this finishing with a chisel as necessary, see plans. The stopped
housing is 10mm deep (3/8) and 57mm long (2 1/4) the draw will slide on top of
the 19mm timber that will ultimately fit in these housing joints.
Before the box section is glued up the grove for the draw runner is cut into the
Insides of the box section this is cut using a router and router fence, this grove
must be large enough for the dowel and brass tube (That will be knocked onto
the dowel) to slide along, this dowel will be glued on to the side of the draw and
acts as a draw slide and draw stop see plans for size and length of cut.
Glue up the box section cramping up and checking that it is square and not in
twist, use sash cramps in each of the four corners to do this. (see Plan no 7) Scrap
pieces of timber are used to prevent the cramps from bruising the box sides,
making sure that the scrap timber blocks do not hinder the tail and pins of the
dovetail joint from being clamped up good and true.
Now cut and fit the two sidepieces and glue in to the stopped housing joint, pull
these together with a sash cramp, leave cramped in place until glue is dry. Dont
forget to wipe all surplus glue off box.
Clean up the dovetails using a smoothing plane.
The next thing to fit is the 3.6mm ply top and bottom pieces notice that the ply is
rebate into the top and bottom of the main box and glued. The best way to fit the
ply is to cut a rebate in the top and bottom using a rebate cutter in the router

make this rebate just slightly deeper than the ply this is important for cleaning
up (the last thing you want is to remove any of the ply veneer.)
When the two-bottom ply is glued up fit the top ply in the same why wipe away
surplus glue with a damp cloth. I used 1 brass pines to secure the ply in place.
Now it is time to cut the lid from the main box using a fine circular saw clean up
the lid and the box from which the lid was cut of when you are satisfied that the
lid is a good fit cut and fix the hinges you will need a pair of Hafele Desk Hinges
size 13mmx102mm brass, use 1 number 6 brass screws.

The Draw Plan no 7 and no 5.

The draw that fits into the main box is made from (19mm x 73mm) 13mm 68mm
PSE (1/2 x 2 3/4). This is cut down to 45mm (1 ) deep front and side pieces,
the back is 65mm (2 5/8) deep, the reason for this extra depth at the back is to
prevent the draw from opening when the easel is closed this is achieved by two
blocks that are screwed onto each side of the lid, these blocks slide in front of the
back of the draw thus preventing it from opening when the lid is closed.
The draw has through or box dovetail joint at the back and lap or drawer
dovetail at the front, the reason for a lap dovetail at the front is so the end grain
only shows on the side, and is not visible at the front of the draw. There is a
dowel drilled into the sides of the draw this must correspond to the stopped
housing joint that was cut into the sides of the main box before the main box was
assembled, this dowel is covered by a 10mm brass tube see plans.
The draw has a 3.6mm ply base this is fixed after the draw is assembled using
glue and sash cramp described in the main box notes.


The two side legs. Plan no 8 and Plan no 3.
Cut the legs to length as shown in the plans. The finished size is 42x42mm
(15/8sq). There are two channels cut into each leg, one is for the M6 bolt to slide
up and down that is used to tighten up the adjusting piece. The second is the
channel for the adjusting piece to slide up and down,this is used to adjust the
height of the legs for uneven ground ECT.
Start by cutting out the channel for the 20mm (3/4) square-adjusting piece.
Measure 140mm (5 ) from the top of the leg and mark this on the leg side. The
channel must not go past this measurement using a router and a 10mm (3/8)
cutter cut out the channel going deeper very gradually about at a time, until
you get the correct depth 30mm (1 1/8). Now repeat this process on the other
side. You will end up with a channel 30mm deep and 20mm wide.
Using a 6mm (1/4) cutter cut out a grove on the opposite side of the channel that
you have just cut this grove is in the middle of the leg starting at 165mm (6 )
from the top and leaving 126mm (5) on the bottom. Now cut the end block
12mm (1/2) 45mm deep (1 ) wide 90mm (3 1/2) long. This is rebated and
glued on the bottom of the leg it is good ideas to make this block a little wider so
that when the glue has dried you can plane it flush with the leg see plans.
The top of the leg has to be cut at 72 degrees angle see plans for measurements
so the front legs spread out woods see plans. Now finish the legs of by putting a
half round on the edges and sand up. Repeat this process on the second front leg.
As you will see from the plans a 6mm hole is drilled into top of the leg through
this angle the hole must be drilled at 90 degrees from the front face of the leg and

70mm (2 3/4) from the top of the leg, this is to give the leg strength for when it is
clamped in place by the wing nuts.
To allow the leg to lie flat on the box section (when folded away) another 6mm
hole is drilled at 90degrees from the 70 degrees angle, I used a 1/8 wood
working gouge instead of a drill as I think that there is more control doing it the
old fashion way in cutting this hole, see plans.

Completing the leg

The square-adjustment piece is now fitted into the channel that you have cut into
the legs if your measurements are right this square piece should slide into the
channel. First cut a round on the top of this square piece of timber. Now plane a
long sloping chamfer on each corner on the bottom and cut a circular peg so that
the rubber 18mm tubular tips will push on, it must be a tight fit otherwise it may
drop off when in use. Now slide the square-adjustment piece into the leg and
mark the position for the bolt, you may have to open up the end of the leg so that
the rubber 18mm fits into the channel see plans, do this with a round surform.
Remove the adjustment piece drill for the bolt reassemble and push the dolt into
the 6mm hole, put a Penney washer on the bolt and wined on the wing nut or a
6m female knob on to the bolt, the leg with the square adjustment piece is know
completed.

The back leg Plan no 5 and Plan no 3

Make the back leg exactly as the front legs using 42mm square timber and 20mm
square-adjustment piece sliding into the former as described above.
However there are two sidepieces bolted and secured by a M6 Coach bolt 80mm
long Penney washer and wing nut on the top of the main leg section, this Coach
bolt must be flush with the side piece timber so that all the pieces will go into the
main box section when folded up. I ground the head on the inside of the coach
bolt I used into a counter sink chamfer so that it would lie flush with the outside
timber piece see plans. The top of these sidepieces are fixed to a small block of
timber, these two sidepieces are housed glued and screwed to this small block.
This small block of timber is fixed to the back of the main box using one brass
back flap hinge open 60mm 38mm finish.
There is also a piece of timber 54mm long (2 1/2) 32mm wide (1 ) and 6mm
thick (1/4) this piece of timber is glued and screwed onto the top of the main leg
section, the purpose of this timber is to securer the leg in place when open see
the plans. There is also a brass plate screwed on to the top of the sidepiece this
keeps the main leg in place when the box easel in folded up.
There is a brace to hold the back leg in place when open this is made up of two
timber pieces size 35mm wide (1 3/8) 10mm thick (3/8) and one 380mm long
(15) and 420mm (16 ) screwed together by one number 10 brass counter
sunk screw 25mm (1) long, the point is filed flush with the side piece timber.
The top end of this brace is bolted to the main box using a M6 bolt washer and
wing nut. All this sounds complicated but it is made clear in the plans.

Adjustment Main Box Lid Holder Plan no 4

This adjustment lid holder is made in exactly the same way as the main front
legs; the difference is the length and the size of the timber. The finished size of
the two main sidepieces is 30mm x 34mm (1 3/16 x 1 3/8). The timber that fits
and slides into the channel cut into the main sidepieces is 15mmX15mm (5/8 x
5/8). This timber is held in place at the bottom by a piece of 3.6mm ply cut and
glued into the main side piece, the size of this ply is 25mm x 30mm (1 x 1 3/16).

The top of the main sidepieces is fixed to the lid of the main box by two brass
mirror plates, one plat screwed for each main sidepiece. The bottom of the
15mm square slide piece is fixed to the main box by one brass dome screw for
each side peice the plans make this clear, the lid is locked in place to the angle
required by one 6M bolt Penney washer and 6M female knob.

Adjustment sliding Drawing Board Holder
This slides onto the lid of the main box, the main drawing board holder is made
from 80mm (3 1/8) by 42mm (1 5/8) clear pine.
You can make it out of three sections of timber the Back 42mm X 45mm is glued
onto the base 45mm x 22mm, the base is then glued onto the front section 30mm
x 15mm. As you can see from the plans the top drawing board holder is the same
section as the bottom but only 203mm long (8) were as the bottom is 432mm
long (17).
The sliding section of the board holder is made up of three pieces of timber, two
outside pieces hold the third in place which slides between these outside pieces,
this is achieved by means of two 5mm tongs cut into the middle timber and a
grove to match these tongs cut into the outside pieces.
The two outside timber pieces are glued and screwed to the bottom drawing
board holder, and the middle section is screwed onto the much shorter top board
holder. There is also a timber-supporting piece that is glued and screwed into
top of the two outside timber pieces this will be made clear in the plans.
The middle sliding timber is locked into place by means of a 6M bolt and penny
washer cut into the shape of an ellipse. As you can see from the plans there is a
slot cut into the middle section and a rebated grove cut on top of this slot this
enables this middle piece of timber to slide up and down to hold the drawing
board in place.
On the outside of the lid of the main box there are two timbers pieces screwed by
four brass screws, these timbers have a rebate cut into the outside edge, this
rebate is for a tong that is cut into the locking device that is glued onto the ends
of the main drawing board holder (Bottom of this holder) see plans how this
worked but when you fix the screw drill a 2mm hole into the timber to prevent
the points of the nut from splitting the locking section see plans.

Setting out dovetail English type.

See Plan no 2.

The type of dovetail I used for my easel is the English type this means that the
tails or sockets are the same size as the pines this makes a very strong dovetail
joint. I always use inches when setting out this type of joint, as it is easier.
As I said the sockets and pins are the same size so to achieve this the setting out
is done not on the marking gouge line (as normal) but done on a half way line
marked out with a pencil see No 2 leaflet.
Now divide this pencil line with dividers into equal spacing so if the timber you
are using is 5 x 1 then divide the width 5 into 6 equal spacings, the equal
spacing must always be in even number so according to board size divide into 6
or 8 or 10 ETC equal spacings.
Now divide the first and last division into half making half a division see no 2 and
no 3 Plan no 2 in the leaflet.

With the divides set (to 6 equal spacings) put point of dividers on the halfway
mark and strike of divisions you will end up with 5 divisions and one half space
at first and last see no 4 in the leaflet.
Now put dovetail slop or angle on all these marks as shown on no 5 Plan 2 in the
leaflet.
Mark out all the dovetail pins that will be cut out, now cut out all these pins and
use this timber as a template to mark out the rest of the dovetail.
Remember you will end up with tails and no pins on this piece of timber and by
putting this cut out timber on the end grain of the 6 x 1 (using this as a
template) used for the front and back of the box, mark around these tails with a
pencil and now cut out the tails. See no 7 Plan no 2

List of Materials
Timber. All sizes are finished sizes PSE and all length are given as true lengths.
(It my be better to add a little extra length on sizes given)

Main Box

20x152mm (3/4 x 6)
2 Ends at 380mm (15) long
2 Sides at 495mm (19 1/2) long
2 Divisions inside box 13mm x 63mm x 476mm ( x 2 x 18 ) long.
2 at 3.6mm ply top and bottom 37mm x 476mm (14 x 18 )

Draw

2 Sides at 13mm x 46mm x 473mm (1/2 x 13/4 x 185/8) long

1 Front 13mm x 46mm x 340mm (1/2 x 13/4 x 13 3/8) long
1 back 13mm x 63mm x 340 mm (1/2 x 2 x 13 3/8) long
1 base at 3.6mm ply 475mm x 330mm (18 3/8 x 13)

Legs

Side Legs
2 at 42mm x 42mm x 820mm (1 5/8 x 1 5/8 x 32 ) long
2 at 19mm x 19mm x 451mm (3/4 x x 17 ) long
2 bottom end piece 90mm long x 42mm wide x 11mm thick


(3 long x 1 5/8 x wide x 7/16 thick)

Back leg
1 at 42mm x 42mm x 460mm (1 5/8 x 1 5/8 x 16) long
Sidepieces 2 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 460mm long


(3/8 thick x 1 3/8 wide x 16) long
Brace piece 1 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 390 mm long


(3/8 thick x 1 3/8 wide x 15 3/8) long
Brace piece 1 at 10mm thick x 35mm wide x 425 mm long


(3/8 thick x 1 3/8 wide x 16 3/4) long
Hinge end block 22mm thick x 50mm wide x 67mm long


(7/8 thick x 2 wide x 2 5/8 long
End block piece 6mm thick x 32mm wide x 64mm long


( thick x 1 wide x 2 long





Lid adjustment legs

2 sidepieces 29mm x 35mm x 290mm long

1 1/8 x 1 3/8 x 113/8 long
2 extension pieces 15mm x 15mm x 273mm long


5/8 x 5/8 x 10 long
2 ply ends 3.6mm ply 29mm x 32mm



1 1/8 x 1

Drawing board adjustment pieces on lid.

2 lid sidepieces 35mm x 16mm x 495mm long

1 3/8 x 5/8 x 19 long
2 middle sidepieces 45mm x 16mm x 533 mm long


1 x 5/8 x 21 long
1 middle sidepiece 70mm x 16mm x 533mm long


2 x 5/8 x 21 long

Drawing board holder (made up of three pieces of timber)
Bottom
1 at bottom 41mm x 22 mm x 431mm long

1 5/8 x 7/8 x 17 long
1 at top 41mm x 22 mm x 197mm long

1 5/8 x 7/8 x 7 3/4 long
Middle
1 at middle bottom 41mm x 22 mm x 431mm long


1 5/8 x 7/8 x 17 long

1 at middle top 41mm x 22 mm x 197mm long

1 5/8 x 7/8 x 7 3/4 long
Top
1 at end top
13mm x 32mm x 197mm



x 1 x 7 long
1 at end bottom
13mm x 32 x 431mm long



x 1 x 17 long

1 top jointer piece 45mm x 12mm x 140mm long


1 x x 5 long

2 at Locking pieces support 45mm x 25mm x 32mm long



1 x 1 x 1 long
2 tong glued onto locking piece support 41mm x 10mm x 41mm long






1 5/8 x 3/8 x 1 5/8 long

Iron ironmongery list on plans no 1