Garment Bundling | Bundling |

Modular Manufacturing

Bundling or Garment Bundling is the process of

disassembling the stacked and cut pieces and
reassembling them in production lots grouped by
garment unit, color dye lot, and number of garments.
Manufacturers use a variety of bundling methods
depending upon their needs, with four basic systems
being the most common among local manufacturers

Garment Item Bundling | Item Bundle

All pieces that comprise a garment are bundled together.
Garment Group Bundling | Group Bundle
Several (10-20) garments are put together in a bundle and
given to a single operator or team to sew.

Garment Progressive Bundling | Progressive

Bundling | Progressive Bundle System
Pieces corresponding to specific sections of the garment
(such as sleeves or a collar) are bundled together and given
to one operator. Other operators sew other parts of the
garment, which are then assembled into the finished
garment in the final phase.

Unit Production System (UPS)

Individual garment pieces are delivered to sewers using a
computerized, fully mechanized assembly line that runs
throughout the manufacturing facility.
Using a UPS computer monitoring system, a manufacturer
can fully track the production of a garment, identify where
sewing slowdowns are occurring, and reroute garment
pieces to other sewers who work more quickly.
Gerber Garment Technology Inc. manufactures a UPS
system, which eliminates the need for passing apparel
piece bundles from worker to worker.
This lowers labor costs because employees spend less time
handling bundles and more time sewing. It also facilitates
short-cycle manufacturing.

Modular Manufacturing | Team Based Manufacturing

It is another type of bundling that combines some of the above
characteristics.
Developed in Japan, it is the grouping of sewing operators into teams of
eight to ten.
Rather than each sewer performing a single task, they work together on
a garment from start to finish.
One-third of the U.S. apparel industry has switched to either unit
production or modular manufacturing.
In Los Angeles, however, only a few major manufacturers engage in
computerized unit production (constituting about ten percent of total
production) while the majority of contractors still use progressive
bundling.
Bundling workers also carry out important quality control functions.
They inspect the garment pieces for cutting problems, fabric
irregularities, or any other problems that may have occurred in
production thus far.

Garment Bundling Work Instruction

Quality - Number of parts in one bundle is the bundle quality. This is
decided according to the order quality and rolls length in that particular
size and color style. All the parts of one roll will be considered same.
Avoid shade variation.
Bundle folding reduces handling time.
Ticket information - ticket will be sticked on the bundle specifying all the
details' like - bundle,number,size number ,lay number ,number of parts in
that bundle and even the name the part is mentioned.
Colorwise-Bundling should be done color wise per one lay as per the lay
report.
Bundle tickling need to be seen and the parts need to be in order.
Cuff checking
Even creasing Avoid stickers and stains.
Avoid creases marks.

Garment Bundling Work Instruction

Even width of cuff.

Avoid stitch problem.
Balance the line on both cuffs.
Avoid looseness.
Even width of top stitches no zigzag lines.
Follow spem
Check button hole position.
Button hole placement.
Button hole density.
Proper shape. Proper pointing, if angled cuff.
Dust in the interlining
Lines balance same on both the cuffs.

Garment Bundling Work Instruction

Trimming of hem should not be very less or more, sleeve checking.
Putting the Sleeve on the Pattern (Ready Pattern) and Check the size and
shape.
Upper Placket line balance from the sleeve.
Measurement of the upper placket should be same as present in tech pack file.
The type of upper placket vary in different style so it should be confirmed by
seeing the tech pack
The Under placket usually be of 1cm so it should also be checked.
The Fabric quality should be checked, so any weaving defect is there should be
checked.
Check any stains are present in the fabric.
Check for any Down Stick, loose Stitch.
Check for Proper Attachment of the Placket.

Sewing | Garment Assembly

What is Sewing
This is the main assembly stage of the production process,
where sewers stitch fabric pieces together, and a garment
is assembled. Computerized sewing machines, costing
upwards of $100,000, can be programmed to sew a
specific number of stitches to perform a standard
operation, such as setting a zipper or sewing a collar.
However, even though new machines mechanize and
hasten the sewing process, sewing remains largely laborintensive.

Types of Sewing Machines

There are Four general types of Sewing Machines:
Single-needle Machines
Overlock Machines
Blind-stitch Machines
Specialized Machines.

 Single needle machines are most common, as are their operators.

Because operating more complicated machines requires additional
training, there is frequently an oversupply of single-needle
operators and a shortage of sewers who can use other machines.
Sewers need to be familiar with many different types of fabric and
how to stitch each, but they usually specialize in a particular
fabric or a particular machine.
Working with cotton knit fabrics is very different from working
with denim, silk, or linen. Learning how to work with each fabric
type is part of the training-usually informal-that sewers undergo.
Sewers may also specialize in zipper-setting, embroidery, and
other hand stitching techniques.
Sewers may also affix labels. Certain labels identify the garment
as belonging to a particular line and designer. Other labels inform
the consumer of fabric content, care instructions, country of
origin, size, or production by a union shop.

Sewing Department
o The bundles of parts of shirts are send from the cutting
department to production line where Sewing is done.
o The sewing starts from bundling, parts making, re cutting,
assembling.
o It ends at assembling because after that finishing starts.
Starting from the handling, it is most important and an
initial step of the production.
o So a critical and efficient work is involved where it
involves of mental stress to the laborer. So if the bundle
made need to be matching they should tally with all the
parts.
o Bundles are usually made depending upon the collar style.
There are various different sizes. So all the parts are kept
together depending upon the tag information given.

Sewing Department
o The tag is attached to every bundle that is been cut. So
the tag information should be same in each bundle of
each part of a shirt.
o The tag usually consist of -P.O. no, Style no, Qty, Size,
Fab code, Sales code, Thread for body, Thread button
hole, main label, Bundle no, and the production ISO
code.
After the bundles are made then each part is
distributed in the line. Like for example
Collar line
Sleeve and Cuff
Front line, Back line

Process of Sewing
The Flow of Working in Collar Line :
Collar Making
Collar Down Piece Patch Attachment [if removable bone
present]
Trimming of the Interlining Piece
Run Stitch
Trimming & Pointing the Collar Points
Collar Forming
Top Stitching
Band Heming of the Interlined Piece
Band Hem Trimming Table

Process of Sewing
Collar Top Trimming & Counterpointing
Band Attaching [after attaching it goes back to the table for
trimming & shaping up the band]
Ironing
Quality Check Point
Collar Top Stitch
Collar Button Hole
Collar Hem Trimming
Collar Making
Entry

The Flow of Working in Sleeve and Cuff Line

Sleeve are Loaded[with under &upper placket]
Sleeve Under Placket
Plaket Forming
Top Placket Attachment
Placket Buttonhole
Sleeve Pleat
Quality Check
Entry
Cuffs Loaded
Cuff Hem Ironing
Cuff Hem

Cuff run
Cuff Forming &Even Trimming[if pointed ends]
Cuff Top Stitch
Quality Check
Cuff Buttonhole
Cuff hem trimming
Entry
As Back line has not much of operations involved, half of
the machines are distributed in collar line &in sleeve &cuff
line. In collar line, back pleat and yoke label attachment
takes place. If any special features are present, two machines
in spare are present in front line, which usually are used.

The Flow of the Back Line :

Back Loading[near the pleat area]
Back Pleat
Back Yoke Label
Back yoke Attachment
Quality Check
Entry

The Flow of the Front Line:

Front Placket Fusing [depend upon the style]
Front Placket Manual Ironing
Front Placket Mechanical Folding Through MAICA Machines
Front Left Placket Top Stitch & Attaching
Pocket Hem
Pocket Seam Ironing
Pocket Extra Seam Trimming And Front Placket Trimming [if any
extra edge present]
Pocket Attaching to Right Front
Wash Care Label Attaching
Quality Checking
Button Holing
Entry

In all the lines online checking takes place. Always the

SPCM, top stitch width, hem line width, intake of pleat,
distance between button hole, distance of the pocket, wash
care label, back yoke label attachment distance of the label is
measured.
Central line matching is present in every parts of the shirtlike, Line matching for sleeve to sleeve placket, sleeve to
yoke ,pocket to front .
In the end the complete look of the shirt should me
beautiful. There is a separate label for front and back
trimming.
After all the parts are finished then all this parts are bundled
again depending upon the size ,fabric code, & P.O no. After a
complete tally of the shirts components then they are stored
in racks which is called as buffer.

Garment Assembly | Garment Assembly Line

After the entry of parts takes place .it goes for assembling.In
assembling conveyor system is used, where attachment of
shirt segments are joined by using the most efficient and time
consuming method and handling of material is reduced and
through conveyor the parts are carried to next operation
quite fast.
The work starts from loading table where all the garment
parts bundles are opened and checked again for the wash care
label ,shade difference, stitch quality, fabric defects ,stains,
loose threads etc before these part are clamped on the clamps
of the conveyor systeton -clamping takes palce like first back
,front ,collar ,sleeve ,cuffs are clamped together to the
coneyor system.

The Flow of Assembly

Unloading
Clamping
Shoulder Closing
Collar Attaching
Closing [label is stitched]
Sleeve Attaching
Sleeve Pressing
Sleeve Closing
Side Seam Trimming
Side Seam (Right side One and Left side)
Cuff Attaching

The Flow of Assembly

Cuff Closing
Bottom Hem Finishing
Endline Checking
Finishing
In assembling online checking takes place where all the
quality parameters are checked in regular intervals, like
the stitch quality,fabric weaving defects, central line
matching etc .
In the end line checking center -central line balance,
cuffs, fabric weaving, collar, label, button hole distance,
bottom hem line are checked.

SEAMS
A seam is a-joint between two pieces of fabric. Indeed, this was
the essence of the British Standard definition of seams as contained
in the 1965 version of BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams and
Stitching. The noun stitching' then applied to situations where
there is only one piece of fabric, such as when fabric edges are
neatened or hems created, and where decorative sewing is
involved.
The current BS 3870: Part 2: 1991: Classification and Terminology
of Seam Types, and the earlier 1983 edition, define a seam as the
application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several
thicknesses of material'. Thus the term includes virtually all
sewing that goes into garments.
The properties that seams have to achieve can be stated quite
simply at an introductory level, but the factors involved in
achieving those properties are complex and interrelated.

The properties of seams

The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams which combine the
required standards of appearance and performance with an appropriate level of
economy in production.
Good appearance in a seam normally means smooth fabric joins with no
missed or uneven stitches and no damage to the material being sewn. Good seam
appearance during manufacturing demands varying techniques. Once it has been
achieved, it must be maintained throughout the designed lifetime of the garment,
despite the additional problems that arise during wearing and during washing and
dry cleaning processes.
Performance of seams means the achievement of strength, elasticity,
durability, security and comfort, and the maintenance of any specialized fabric
properties such as waterproofing. Seam must be as strong as the fabric, in all
directions to with stand all possible abrasion or movements and in
wearing and washing
Finally, seam performance as well as seam appearance can be spilt by the
fact that carnage may occur to the fabric along the stitch line.

A balance must be achieved when planning garment production between

the demands of the end use of the garment, its price and the machinery
available for its construction.
Assuming that the fabric is sewable and suitable for garments, the
achievement, at an economical level, of the various requirements of
appearance and performance of sewn seams, both initially and during use is
the result of the selection of the correct combination of five factors during
manufacturing:
a. the seam type which is a particular configuration of fabric(s);
b. the stitch type which is a particular configuration of thread in the fabric;
c. the sewing machine feeding mechanism which moves the fabric past
the needle and enables a succession of stitches to be formed;
d. the needle which inserts the thread into the fabric;
e. the thread which forms the stitch which either holds the fabric
together, neatens it or decorates it.

(A)

SEAM TYPES
The choice of seam type is determined by aesthetic standards, strength,
durability, comfort in wear, convenience in assembly in relation to me
machinery available, and cost.

(i)

(ii)

Six seam classes were included in the 1965 British Standard and at that
stage they were given names which usefully describe their constructions.
Two more classes were added with the publication of the 1983 edition, but
without the descriptive names, and the total of eight continues in the 1991
edition. In the following sections these names have been included in
brackets. This breakdown of seams into classes is included here as it
provides a framework within which seam constructions can initially be
explained and an indication given of the variety that exists.

(i)

(ii)

(iii)

Methods of representing seams

Not all the seams can be sewn in one operation. The diagram normally
show the final version and it should be clear from the positions of the
needles and the folding of the fabric if it was constructed in one step or
several.

CLASS 1 (SUPERIMPOSED SEAM)

This is the commonest construction seam on garments and the one used
in Figure 3.3, above, to illustrate the various methods of depicting seam
constructions. The simplest seam type within the class is formed by
superimposing the edge of one piece of material on another. A variety of
stitch types can be used on this type seam, both for joining and for
neatening the edges or for achieving both simultaneously.

1) French seams.

An example of this is the type of superimposed seam known as a Frenchseam which is done in two stages. This is shown as (i) in Figure. A similar,
and in many cases an equally acceptable seam, could be constructed using
a folding device and a multi-needle machine, though only on a straight,
rather than a curved, fabric edge.

2) Piped seams

An example of a superimposed seam with an additional component

would be one that contained an inserted piping, and even here more than
one construction is possible.

Class 2 (Lapped seam)

The simplest seam type in this class is formed by lapping two pieces of

material.
Sail fabrics are very finely woven and fray very little.

Much more common on long seams on garments such as jeans and shirts
is the so-called lap-felled seam, sewn with two rows of stitches on a twin
needle machine equipped with a folding device. This provides a very strong
seam in garments that will take a lot of wear though there is a possibility that
the thread on the surface may suffer abrasion in areas such as inside leg
seams. The lap felled seam is illustrated in Figure.
The type of raised, topstitched seam often used down skirt panels is also
technically a lapped seam although at the beginning of its construction it
appears to be a superimposed seam. It is often referred to as a welted or a
raised and welted seam.

Class 3 (Bound seam)

The seam consists of an edge of material which is bound by another, with
the possibility of other components inserted into the binding.
The simplest version of this class is again unusual as it cannot be constructed
with self-fabric binding because of the problem of raw edges.
A folding device turns the edges under and wraps the strip over the edge of
the main fabric. Bias cut strip would normally be used, unless the fabric had
an element of stretch. A bound seam is often used as a decorative edge and
the binding may continue off the edge of the garment to provide tie ends.
Examples in common uses on underwear and leisurewear and on skirts,
jeans and ladies trousers are shown in Figure. In (i) is shown a common
finish used on the neck edge of tee shirts and also on the edges of men's
vests and briefs. In (ii) it has an insert of another cut strip. This would
normally be in a contrasting colour to the garment and both could contrast
with the outer binding. In (iii) an elastic has been included in a sufficiently
stretched state to draw the edge of the garment in to a snug fit.

Class 4 (flat seams)

The fabric edges do not overlap. So there Flat seam
They may be butted together without a gap and joined across by a stitch
which has two needles sewing into each fabric and covering threads passing
back and forth between these needles on both sides of the fabric.
Knitted Fabrics are most commonly used because the advantage of this seam
is that it provides a join that is free from bulk in garments worn close to the
skin such as knitted underwear.
The machine trims both fabric edges so that they form a neat join.
Alternatively, various zig-zag stitches could sew back and forth between the
fabrics which might then have a decorative gap between them. Examples of
flat seams are shown in Figure.

Class 5 (Decorative stitching)

According to the British standard there not under category of seam
The main use of this seam was for decorative sewing on garments where single
multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layers of fabric. These
several layers can be folds of the same fabric.
i. shows twin-needle stitching with a ribbon laid under the stitches while
ii. shows four rows of stitches. This type of multi-needle stitching has further
decorative possibilities if an attachment is added to the machine which lays
embroidery threads back and forth under the stitches on the surface of the
fabric.
Decorative seams, (i) 2 X 301, (ii) 4 x 401

iii. are pin tucks, often sewn in multiples -This type of pin tuck is different
from the traditional version which consists of a fold in the fabric sewn
close to the edge. When multiple, parallel tucks are required, the original
method is slow and potentially inaccurate. In the version shown here, the
folder ensures the tucks are parallel as all the tucks are sewn
simultaneously. The tucks must just however, be set to face one way or the
other and decision as to which must be made in relation to the design of
the garment
iv. channel seams.

Decorative seams, (iii) pin tucks, (iv) channel seam.

Class 6 (Edge neatening)

This is the other seam class that was called a stitching. Seam types in this
class include those where fabric edge are neatened by means of stitches as
well as folded hems and edges.

In Figure
i. is typical of the hem on a dress or a pair of trousers in a woven fabric
which has been neatened and then sewn up invisibly (blind stitched). In
a knitted fabric the neatening might be omitted.
ii. a folding device is used in the construction of the hem of a shirt or a
skirt lining;
(iii) and (iv) show a method of folding an edge that is sometimes used on
the buttonhole front of a shirt. Two different constructions are possible,
the first one requiring the sewing to be done in two stages,
the second one requiring a twin-needle machine.

Class 7
Seam is this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a
garment part. They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added
component has a definite edge on both sides.
(1) E. g. would be a band of lace attached to the lower edge of a slip
(2) elastic braid on the edge of a bra as in
(3) inserted elastic on the leg of a swimsuit as in

Shirt buttonhole band - 2 X 401.

Class 8
The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one
piece of material need be involved in constructing the seam. The
commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans,
raincoats, etc.
(i) belts themselves
(ii) a special machine attachment is required to fold the fabric.
(iii) The use on the belt loop of the stitch type mentioned before which
has two needles and a bottom covering thread ensures that the raw
edges are covered over on the underside while showing two rows of
plain stitching on the top. It is quicker and cheaper to construct .
Belt loop and belts, (i) 406, (ii) 301, (iii) 301.

 Plain seams are simplest and are used most often. Put two pieces of material,
right sides together, and stitch on wrong side at required seam allowance,
usually inch (1 cm) from edge. Open and press flat. Edges may be pinked.
Stitched plain seam is made in the same way as a plain seam and then
stitched again on the right side 1/8 inch from seam line on one or both sides
for a tailored effect.
Flat fell seam is used when you need a flat finish, as in shirts and pyjamas.
Make a plain seam, trim one edge to 1/8 inch, and turn in other edge inch
(1/2 cm). Baste to position over trimmed edge and edge stitch. This is usually
done on the right side.
Hem felled seam is made like flat fell except that seam is hemmed, rather
than edge stitched, for a softer effect.
Flannel fell seam is used on heavier fabric, like wool. Make a plain seam,
trim one edge to inch (1 cm), and fold other part over without turning in
raw edge. Catch stitch.

 Welt seam is used for flat finish on heavy material. Make a plain seam on wrong
side, trim one edge, fold the other over it without turning in the raw edge, and
stitch on outside. For double welt, stitch a second line close to original seam
stitching.
Slot seam is a decorative seam, sometimes to show another colour or design
underneath. Turn both seam edges under on sewing line, lap them over a strip of
material, with edges meeting or not as desired, and stitch the proper distance
from the fold on both sides.
French seam is used for sheer materials and underwear. Make a plain seam on
right side (with wrong sides together), inch outside the seam allowance. Trim
edges to inch, turn to wrong side and stitch on seam allowance to make this
seam within a seam. Do not allow any frayed edge to show
Upholsterers seam is made like a French seam except that you start on the
wrong side and the finished seam shows on the right side. The effect is like that of
cording and is often used for slip covers.
False French seam is made with a plain seam on wrong side. Turn edges under
inch and sew together with running stitch or by machine.

Hemstitched seam is basted as for plain seam, and pressed to one side. Have
seam hemstitched and trim seam allowance close to hemstitching. A line of
machine stitching can be done inch (1 cm) from stitching on wrong sided.
Lapped seam will look like a fell seam when finished. Turn one piece of material
under on the seam allowance. Baste the folded edge on to the right side of the
other piece, at the seam allowance. Edge stitch.
Tucked seam is similar to lapped seam except that the final stitching is done not
at the edge, but at a distance from the fold. The effect is like that of a tuck.
Machine picoted seam is like hemstitched over the basting, trim away seam on
wrong side.
Rolled whipped seam. Make a plain seam, trim the allowance to half, roll edges
tightly a little at a time, putting needle under roll, not through it.
Strap seam is used for decoration. Plain seam is made and pressed open. On the
right side, baste a strip of material with edges turned in, and edge stitch both sides.
Braid and other trimmings may also be used.

Corded seam uses cord which has been basted inside a bias strip. Place
bias covered cord on the right side of one piece of material with basting
directly on seam line, cut edges towards edge of fabric. Baste and place
second piece of fabric, right sides facing, edges together, in position as for
plain seam. Baste and stitch on seam line, using cording foot.
Piped seam. Fold bias strip in half and placed on the right side of fabric
with fold 1/8 inch inside seam line. Baste and place other piece right side
down on top; baste and stitch. Trim seam, press so that piping falls along
edge of seam.
Curved seam must be clipped or slashed in several places to make it lie
flat. This is important for smooth finish.
Enclosed seams are plain seams used in double thicknesses as in collar and
cuffs. Trim very close, clip edges to lie flat, press and turn.
Crossed seams are two seams that cross. To avoid bulkiness, press seams
open and clip away edges of under seam.
Whipped seam is used for piecing when fabric is not wide enough to cut
full pattern. Be sure grain of piecing is the same as the grain of garment /
sewing project, turn in edges, and overcast with tiny stitches.

(B) STITCH TYPES

There is a need for stitches which join and stitches which neaten, for
machines with more than one needle and for stitches which form a
covering layer over the fabric.
Certain stitch types can also aid economical garment production by
performing several functions at once such as joining and neatening or
by adding decoration at the same time as either of those.
British Standard 3870: Part 1: 1991: Classification and Terminology of
Stitch Types, defines a stitch as: 'one unit of conformation
resulting from one or more strands or loops of thread
intralooping, interlooping or passing into or through
material.

Stitch formation, (i) Intralooping, (ii) interlooping, (iii) interlacing.

The six classes of stitch included in the British Standard are as follows:
Class 100 chainstitches
Class 200 stitches originating as hand stitches
Class 300 lockstitches
Class 400 multi-thread chainstitches
Class 500 overedge chainstitches
Class 600 covering chainstitches

300: lockstitches
In this class the stitches are formed with two or more groups of
threads, and have for a general characteristic the interlacing of the
two or more groups.
Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured
by the thread or threads of a second group.
One group is normally referred to as the needle threads and the
other group as bobbin threads.
The interlacing of thread in stitches of this class makes them very
secure and difficult to unravel

Straight lockstitch, 301,

with a single needle thread and a single bobbin thread, is still the commonest stitch
used in the clothing industry, especially in small volume manufacturing of a variety
of garment types.
Lockstitch has enough strength for most purposes, provided that suitable thread
is used, and enough stretch, when correctly balanced, for conventional and comfort
stretch fabrics stretching up to 30 per cent or even more.
It has the same appearance on both sides.
The only stitch type which reliably forms the stitch when it is necessary to sew
round a corner by pausing and pivoting on the needle.
This is also important in topstitching as well as in seam joining of facings, collars,
pockets and many similar garment parts.

The stitch is secure because the breaking of one stitch in wear will not
cause the whole row to unravel and additionally the end of a line of
stitching can be secured by reversing or 'backtacking'.

Type 304
In its single throw, zig-zag version, it is commonly used forattaching trimming
such as lace and elastic where a broad row of stitching but no neatening is
needed.
In its three step zig-zag version it is commonly used to provide a secure but
stretchy stitch for the edge of stretch bras and other corsetry.
The single and the three step zig-zag are also used, in two or three parallel
rows, in the type of simple lapped seam used for joining the fabric panels in
sails.
There zig-zag stitches perform a very useful function on seams of the type
given here but would not give a good appearance on a superimposed seam.

Stitch type 306 provides a lockstitch blind stitch. This is more secure than the
traditional 103 which will be discussed shortly, but close study of the stitch
construction in Fig. will show a straight bobbin thread which if caught and broken can
allow sections of the stitching to come undone. It also tends to show pucker on fine
fabrics.
The main disadvantage of the lockstitch is that it uses a bobbin to provide the lower
thread and this bobbin can only contain a limited length of that thread. Changing
bobbins is time-consuming in production, as is the unpicking of topstitching when a
thread runs out at a point where a join is visually unacceptable.
The other disadvantages of lockstitch are its limited stretch for today's high stretch
fabrics and its unsuitability for edge neatening, other than by a simple rolling of the
fabric edge or the use of a zig-zag, both of which are untidy.

Class 100: chainstitches

The stitch types in this class are formed from
one or more needle threads, and are
characterised by intralooping. One or more
loops of thread are passed through the
material and secured by intralooping with a
succeeding loop or loops after they are passed
through the material. Since each loop is in this
way dependent on the succeeding one, stitches
in this class are insecure and if the finishing
end of thread is not passed through the last
loop or separately through the fabric, or if a
stitch is broken, it unravels very easily.

If elastic thread is used in the needles, and sewn into the fabric in a stretched
state, it then relaxes and draws the fabric in, enabling garment features such
as elasticated waists and cuffs to be created.
Multi-needle elastication is illustrated in Figure
Another common use of class 100 stitches is in the special sewing processes
of buttonsewing, buttonholing and blind hemming or felling

Stitch type 103

The blind stitching version, 103, utilises a curved needle in order to,
successively penetrate partially into the fabric, and then into the hem edge,
while showing minimally or not at all on the right side of the garment.
The level of insecurity is often high but can be improved by the use of slightly
hairy rather than smooth sewing threads.

Class 200: stitches originating as hand stitches

The stitch types in this class originated as hand stitches and are characterised by a
single thread which is passed through the material as a single line of thread, and
the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the
material.
Handstitching is used at the expensive end of garment production because the
consumer expects it at that price, the skills are available and it may be the only
way to a perfect finish.
Occasionally it is the only way to achieve a particular sewn effect though it
should be said that if a large enough quantity of a garment style is being made it
is frequently possible to engineer the garment so that everything is done by
machine.
In some cases, machines have been developed to simulate hand stitching, the best
example being stitch type 209 which is used around the outer edges of tailored
jackets. This is referred to as pick stitching and is shown in figure

Class 400: multi-thread chainstitches

The stitch types in this class are formed with two or more groups of threads, and have
for a general characteristic the interlooping of the two groups.
Loops of one group of threads are passed through the material and are secured by
interlacing and interlooping with loops of another group.
One group is normally referred to as the needle threads and the other group as the
looper threads.
The simplest version of this class of stitch, 401, is shown in Fig. It has the appearance
of lockstitch on the top but has a double chain effect formed by a looper thread on the
underside.
The chain generally lies on the under surface of the material, the needle thread being
drawn through to balance the stitch.

 Stitches in this class are sometimes referred to as 'double-locked' stitches (not

to be confused with class 300 lockstitch) because the needle thread is interconnected
with two loops of the under-thread.
Because of the geometry of the stitch, a two-thread chainstitch is stronger
than a similar lockstitch and, with no threads interlocking within the fabric it is less
likely to cause the type of pucker that arises when closely woven fabrics are distorted
by the sewing thread.
Its great advantage is that both the threads forming the stitch are run from large
packages on top of the machine so there are no problems with bobbins running out.
It is frequently used on long seams in garments such as trousers. On twin-needle
folded seams such as are used on jeans it is by far the most suitable stitch to use. A
bobbin run-out in that situation would be disastrous.
It will unravel from the finishing end if broken, but less easily than 101 and, provided
the machine is correctly adjusted, there should be no problems. If not sewn across at
the end in the course of the garment's construction, lcm of thread chain should be left.
It does not backtack well but the stitches can be condensed.
When normally adjusted, the stretch with this stitch is about the same as with
lockstitch but, if a small amount of seam grin is acceptable, the thread tensions can be
loosened and a small increase in stretch obtained.

Fig. 3.30.Formation of two-thread

chainstitch, type 401.

Another increasingly used stitch in this class is 406 which uses two needles and has a
looper thread covering the fabric between them on the underside. It is used for
attaching lace and braid trimmings to garments where the edge of the fabric must be
neatened and also for turning up hems where stitching showing on the right side is
acceptable. In each case, the raw edge of the fabric can be contained under the cover
stitching. It is shown in Figure.
Both 406 and the three needle version, 407, are used for attaching elastic edging to
briefs where, in order to achieve a comfortable edge to the garment, a broad band of
stitching is needed.

Stitch type 406

Stitch types 407 and 411. (i) 407, (ii) 411.

Class 500: overedge chainstitches

The stitch types in this class are formed with one or more groups of threads, and have as
a general characteristic that loops from at least one group of threads pass around the
edge of the material. The most frequently used of these stitch types have one or two
needle threads and one or two looper threads and they form a narrow band of stitching
along the edge of the fabric with threads intersecting at the edge and preventing the
fabric from fraying. All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily, and a trimming
knife on the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. This knife can also allow
excessive amounts to be trimmed off, thus altering the dimensions of the garment.
These stitches are commonly referred to as 'overlocking' although the term derives from
a trade mark and is only really correct when used in relation to a particular machine.
The correct term is 'overedging'.

This stitch type can also be used to provide a decorative neatened edge if
sewn with a high stitch density.
Stitch type 503, formed with one needle thread and only one looper
thread is less versatile and is used mainly for edge neatening, often
referred to as serging, especially in menswear.

Class 600: covering chainstitches

With the exception of the very first type, stitch types in this class are "formed
with three groups of threads, and have for a general characteristic that two of
the groups cover both surfaces of the material.
Loops of the first group of threads (the needle threads) are passed through loops
of the third group already cast on the surface of the material, and
then through the material where they are interlooped with loops of the second
group of threads on the underside of the material.
They are used in similar situations to 406 and 407, making a broad, flat,
comfortable joining of elastic, braid or binding to the edges of garments such as
briefs with the scope for a decorative top cover stitch as well as the functional
bottom cover over the raw edge of the garment fabric.