Colegio de San Juan de LetranCalamba

City of Calamba, Laguna, Philippines

www.letran-calamba.edu.ph

SCHOOL OF ENGINEERING
Industrial Engineering Program

Research #1:
An Exercise to fabricate a Ball Peen Hammer
3IE1

Submitted By:
De Ramos, Nickole
Gamban, Josh Charles
Milambiling, Bernadette
Peradilla, Pter Justin
Sanico, Abigail

Engr.Gilda A. Aquino, MSIE

Instructor

+63(049) 545-5453

AN EXERCISE TO FABRICATE A BALL PEEN HAMMER

Introduction
A ball peen hammer is a hammer with two ends on the head, one that is round and the
other flat. Sometimes called a machinist's hammer, a ball peen is a good choice for working with
metal. Its steel head is harder than that of a claw hammer, so is less likely to chip on impact. Ball
peen hammers are commonly used to drive cold chisels, set rivets, and bend and shape metal.
They range in weight from 4 ounces (used, for example, in model boat making) to 32 ounces and
have wooden, steel, or graphite handles.
Before the advent of pneumatic rivet guns, ball peen hammers were commonly used for
riveting. First the flat head drove the nail through, then the round ball was used to "peen over"
the other side of the rivet. The biggest danger while peening rivets is to strike the nail shaft
straight on as this can make the nail bend inside the hole. Then if the boards are stressed the bend
might straighten and the boards separate making for a structure that falls apart or leaks. The
ball of the ball peen hammer tends to produce glancing blows that mash some of the metal away
from the sides of the hole. This also hardens the metal so that it becomes as elastic as the
surrounding material.
(http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/B/AE_ball_peen_hammer.html)

Objectives:
1. To make a ball peen hammer by using the different kinds of machines in the machine
shop.
2. To know the use of ball peen hammer.
3. To develop and organize our skills in order to successfully make a ball peen hammer.

Different Materials

Figure 1 Mild Steel

Mild steel also known as plain carbon steel is the most common form of steel.Itis made
from iron, sulfur, phosphorus, manganese and carbon.The lower the carbon content of steel the
more ductile the material is.This material is also extremely brittle and therefore difficult to form.

Figure 2 Shaft Steel

Shaft steels are mostly made from either low or medium carbon. Itis a medium carbon
steel round that has been ground and polished to a high degree of concentricity, surface
perfection, straightness, and overall accuracy.

Different Equipments

Figure 3 Hacksaw

The hacksaw is a metal-framed saw that is used to cut steel and other metals. On
hacksaws, the blade can be mounted with the teeth facing toward or away from the
handle, resulting in cutting action on either the push or pull stroke.
Safety Precautions

Cut harder materials more slowly than soft materials.

Clamp thin, flat pieces requiring edge cutting.
Keep saw blades clean and lightly oiled.
Do not apply too much pressure on the blade as the blade may break.
Do not twist when applying pressure.

Do not use when the blade becomes loose in the frame.

Use entire length of blade in each cutting stroke.
Use light machine oil on the blade to keep it from overheating and breaking.

Figure 4 Tapping Machine

A tap cuts a thread on the inside surface of a hole. A process for producing internal
threads using a tap that has teeth on its edge to cut threads in a predrilled hole. A combined rotary
and axial relative motion between tap and workpiece forms threads.
Safety Precautions

Do not hold the work piece or the vise it is held in, by hand. The work piece must
be clamped firmly to the table of the machine so that it cannot move, rotate or lift.
Never extend the length of the standard stop arm supplied with your tapping
attachment. Do not hold the stop arm by hand.
Always mount a torque bar to hold the tapping attachment's stop arm from
rotating.
The torque bar installation must be stronger than the largest tap in the capacity
range of your tapping attachment.

Figure 5 Lathe Machine

Lathe is a machine tool which rotates the work piece on its axis to perform various
operations such as cutting, sanding, knurling, and drilling with tools that are applied to the work
piece to create an object. It is used for shaping metals, wood and other material.
Safety Precautions

Always keep the floor around the floor clear of oil or grease to prevent anyone
from slipping and falling into the machine.
Never remove chips with your bare hands; a pair of pliers, a hook, or a brush
should be used.
The operator should prevent long chips from being caught in the chuck by using
good chip control procedures.
Never try to stop the machine with his hands or body.
Always wear safety glasses when operating a lathe or when in the area of lathes
that is in operation.

Figure 6 Milling Machine

Milling machines is used to cut or grind to produce flat and complex shapes with the use
of multi- tooth cutting tool or known as milling cutter. The machine tool that performs the
milling operations by producing required relative motion between work piece and tool.

Safety Precautions

Do not make contact with the revolving cutter.

Place a suitable cover over the table surface to protect it from possible damage.
Use the buddy system when moving heavy attachments.
Do not attempt to tighten arbor nuts using machine power.
When installing or removing milling cutters, always hold them with a rag to prevent
cutting your hands.
While setting up work, install the cutter last to avoid being cut.
Never adjust the workpiece or work mounting devices when the machine is operating
Chips should be removed from the workpiece with an appropriate rake and a brush.

(Machine Shop Operations2014)

Different Processes to make a Ball-peen Hammer

I.
Forming the head

The head is made by a process called hot forging. A length of steel bar is heated to about
2,200-2,350 F (1,200-1,300 C). This may be done with open flame torches or by
passing the bar through a high-power electrical induction coil.
The hot bar may then be cut into shorter lengths, called blanks, or it may be fed
continuously into a hot forge. The bar or blanks are positioned between two formed
cavities, called dies, within the forge. One die is held in a fixed position, and the other is
attached to a movable ram. The ram forces the two dies together under great pressure,
squeezing the hot steel into the shape of the two cavities. This process is repeated several
times using different shaped dies to gradually form the hammer head. The forging process
aligns the internal grain structure of the steel and provides much stronger and more
durable piece.
During this process, some of the hot steel squeezes out around the edges of the die
cavities to form flash, which must be removed. As a final step the head is placed between
two trimming dies, which are forced together to cut off any protruding flash. The head is
then cooled, and any rough spots are ground smooth.
In order to prevent chipping and cracking of the hammer head in service, the face, poll,
and claws are heat treated to harden them. This is done by heating those areas, either with
a flame or an induction coil, and then quickly cooling them. This causes the steel near the
surface to form a different grain structure that is much harder than the rest of the head.
The heads are cleaned with a stream of air containing small steel particles. This process is
called shot blasting. The head may then be painted.
The face, poll, claws, and cheeks are polished smooth. This removes the paint in those
areas. As part of this operation, the v-shaped slot in the claws is smoothed using an
abrasive disc.

Figure 7The head is made by a process called hot forging

Forming the handle

If the hammer has a wood handle, it is formed on a lathe. A piece of wood is cut to the
desired length and secured at each end in the lathe. As the wood spins around the long
axis of the handle, a cutting tool moves in and out rapidly to cut the handle profile. The
position of the cutting tool is driven by a cam that has the same shape as the finished
handle. As the cutting tool moves down the length of the handle, it follows the shape of
the cam and cuts the handle to match it. The finished handle is clamped in a holding
device and a slot is cut diagonally across the top of the handle. The handle is then sanded
to give it a smooth surface.
If the hammer has a steel-core handle, the core is formed by heating a bar of steel, until it
becomes plastic, and forcing it through an opening that has the desired cross-sectional
shape. This process is called extrusion. If the hammer has a graphite fiber-reinforced
core, the core is formed by gathering together a bundle of graphite fibers and pulling
them through an opening that has the desired cross-sectional shape while epoxy resin is
forced through the opening at the same time. This process is called pultrusion. In either
case, the core may then have a protective plastic jacket molded around it.

Figure 8 The wood is cut to the desired length and shaped into the
handle on a lathe

Assembling the hammer

The handle is inserted up through the adze eye of the head. A wood wedge is tapped
down into the diagonal slot on the top of the handle to force the two halves outward to press
against the head. This provides sufficient friction to hold the head on the handle. The wood
wedge is secured in place with two smaller steel wedges driven through it crossways. The handle
may then be stenciled with ink or labeled with an adhesive sticker to show the manufacturer,
brand name, or other information.
(Salaman, R.A. Dictionary of Tools.)

II.

Figure 9 Head and Handle

Take a piece of tool steel 1 inches square, neat it red hot. If, in the process, you ever get
it more than red hot, it is spoiled, and no receipt, or handling or hammering will ever make it
good again. The best thing in such a case is to cut off the burnt part in spite of all proposed cures.
This must be remembered whenever you heat tool or spring steel. If the burnt part cannot be cut
off, heat it to a low heat, cool it in lukewarm water half a dozen times, this will improve it some,
if you can hammer it some do so. Now punch a hole about two inches from the end with a punch
that will make a hole 1 1/8 x 1 3/8 If the punch sticks in the hole, cool it off and put a little coal
in the hole that will prevent the punch from sticking.

This is a good thing to do whenever a deep hole is to be punched. Be sure that the hole is made
true. Next, have a punch the exact size of the hole wanted when finished, drive it in and hammer
the eye out until it has the thickness of about 3/8 of an inch on each side and has a circle form
like No.2, Figure 5. In order to do this you may have to heat the eye many times, and upset over
it with the punch in the eye. This done put in the bottom fuller and with the top fuller groove it
down on each side of the eye, like the cut referred to.
Now dress down the face then the peen-end. When finished harden it in this way: Heat the faceend first to a Jaw red heat, dip in water about an inch and a half and brighten the face and watch
for the color. When it begins to turn blue cool off but don't harden the eye. Wind a wet rag
around the face end and heat the peen-end, temper the same way. With a piece of iron in the eye,
both ends can be hardened at the same time, but this is more difficult, and I would not
recommend it. For ordinary blacksmithing a flat peen hammer is the thing, but I have seen good
blacksmiths hang on to the machinist's hammer as the only thing. The hammer should be of
different sizes for different work, light for light work, and for drawing out plowshares alone the
hammer should be heavy.
(J.G. Homstrom. Lost Crafts)

Design Procedure
1. Punch a slot hole by heating the metal to a bright red to yellow heat.

Figure 1
2. Open the holes a little then alternately drive the drift from each side of the hole.

Figure 2-1
2-2

3. Fuller the metal (Figure 3-1) in order to form the metal into Figure 3-2.

Figure

Figure

3-1

Figure 3-2

4. Hold the metal over the rounded edge of the anvil and at an angle to the anvil face at a red
heat. Then flatten the sides of the eye.
5. Work from each side and spread the metal to give it its form.

Figure 4
6. Drive the drift as the metal is
spread until the size of the eye
is reached.
7. Reheat the metal and let the eye cool off. Then cut off the bar using a sharp hot set.

Figure 5
8. Reduce its diameter to 22 mm by heating the ball-peen

end.

9. Heat again the metal to a red heat and let it cool. Finish it by grinding or filing to remove the
sharp edges.

Figure 6
10. Then, fix a wooden shaft that would fit the users hand.

References
Research Sources

Caracalla, V. (2016).Agricultural Engineering in Development.

Retrieved from http://www.fao.org/docrep/009/ah635e/Ah635e22.htm
Darling, David.Ball Peen Hammer.
Retrieved from http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/AE_ball_peen_hammer.html
Homstrom, J.G. (1901).How to make a Hammer.
Retrieved from http://www.lostcrafts.com/Blacksmith-15.html
Salaman, R.A. (1975).Dictionary of Tools.
Retrieved from http://www.stanleytools.com
V, Ryan. (2009).The Hacksaw.
Retrieved from http://www.technologystudent.com/equip_flsh/hacksw1.html
(2014).Machine Shop Operations. Laguna: Colegio de San Juan de LetranCalamba
(31 May 1983).Tapping Safety.
Retrieved from http://www.tapmatic.com/tapping_questions_tapping_safety.ydev
(2 October 2013).Hand Tools-Hand Saw.
Retrieved from https://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_haz/hand_tools/handsaw.html