13 Thailand 13 Deep South

Lonely Planet Publications
713
Deep South
Where is Mr DeMille? the Deep South is ready for its close-up. After years of waiting in the
wings while diva destinations shone under the suns tropical spotlight, Thailands southern
frontier is taking the stage, hungry for attention.
The kingdoms Deep South darling is Ko Tarutao Marine Park, whose sand-fringed isles
swirl in a tapestry of infinite aqua and jade. Head straight to tiny Ko Lipe, then discover the
wilds of the neighbouring islands with a troop of local chow lair (sea gypsies).
Exploring the mainland is like opening a clock a trip to Hat Yai reveals what makes the
region tick under the ambient holiday veneer. This trade and transport hub is a rowdy and
raucous burg that clangs to the sound of incoming traffic, outgoing produce and haggling in
the crowded local markets. The pace is slower in nearby Songkhla, whose urban soundtrack
mixes the rhythmic lapping of the tides with the muezzins call to prayer.
For the past few years, the political situation in the southernmost provinces (Yala, Pattani
and Narathiwat) has been unstable, and travelling here can be a risky venture. Sect violence
and bouts of terror-inducing attacks are the norm, and although tourists arent the targets
of these aggressive outbursts, its better not to risk it. Its a shame though these sleepy
towns silently simmer in 2000 years worth of mystical kingdoms, aromatic spice markets
and imperialist mercantilism. If, by the time you read this, the heated situation has cooled,
consider editing your itinerary to include a little look-see. If not, thumb through the end of
this chapter you might learn a bit more about the many faces in the land of smiles.
HIGHLIGHTS
Clicking your camera at a colourful long-tail
boat bobbing in the perfect cerulean waters

around Ko Lipe (p722)
Rummaging through endless market merch-
andise of questionable authenticity in Hat Yai

(p726)
Songkhla
Letting the local chow lair guide you to
hidden beaches on Ko Adang and Ko Rawi

(p726)
Hat Yai
Ko Phetra Marine
National Park
Enjoying your steaming street-stall noodles
ing your fingers in the warm sand of one

of the many islands in Ko Phetra Marine
National Park (p719)
BEST TIME TO VISIT: DECEMBERAPRIL
Ko Rawi
Ko Adang
Ko Lipe
POPULATION: 3.91 MILLION
DEEP SOUTH
on the sands of Songkhla (p731)

Swinging in a cotton hammock while swish-
404
Ko Phetra Marine
National Park
Ko Li
Bong
Trang
Ko Botang
Ko Lipe
Ko Tarutao Marine
National Park
Ko Rawi
Ko Adang
Ko
Tarutao
SATUN
Pulau
Langkawi
Satun
PHATTALUNG
Pak Bara
See Ko Tarutao Marine National Park & Around Map (p721)
SEA
ANDAMAN
Ko
Lanta
DEEP SOUTH
DEEP SOUTH
406
Padang
Besar
43
Ton Nga
Chang
Falls
Rattaphum
Thale
Sap
42
408
43
42
67
MALAYSIA
Khao Nam Khang

National Park
Sadao SONGKHLA
408
Songkhla
Chana
43
Hat Yai
407
Ko
Yo
Hat Samila
Khukhut Waterbird
Sanctuary
Hat
Thepha
76
Betong
410
410
Yala
42
42
MALAYSIA
Tak Bai
Ao Manao
Sungai
Kolok
Narathiwat
Hat Talo Laweng
Hat Wasukri
Saiburi
NARATHIWAT
PATTANI
Hat Panare
Hat Khae Khae
Hat Talo Kapo

Yaring
Kheuan
Banglang
YALA
409
Pattani
Laem
Tachi
THAILAND
GULF OF
0
0
Ban
Taba
Losin
Ko Losin
50 km
30 miles
714 D E E P S O U T H
lonelyplanet.com
lonelyplanet.com
History
point and separatists initiated a guerrilla war

with the aim of creating a separate Muslim
state in southern Thailand. The main armed
faction was the Pattani United Liberation
Organisation (PULO), which launched a
campaign of bombings and armed attacks
throughout the 1970s and 80s. The movement began to decline in the 1990s, when
Bangkok presented a peace deal consisting
of greater cultural freedom and autonomy
for the south.
Current Events
After many years of relative peace, the Thai
government reduced the strength of their grip
in Pattani by annulling their police statelike
control. In 2004 tensions quickly heightened
as separatist sentiments flourished anew.
These antigovernment feelings came at a time
when job numbers were dwindling as corporate fisheries ploughed through, wrecking
family-run operations. Terrorist attacks had
a distinctive communist slant reminiscent of
demonstrations many decades ago.
The first major incident that signified a
notable rise in antigovernment sentiments
occurred in late April 2004, when a string of
organised attacks blasted through 11 government buildings across the region at dawn.
Insurgents gathered in the Krua Se mosque
and held off military forces for nine long
hours until the army wore them down and
killed everyone inside. Critics argued that
such severe force was completely unnecessary and that negotiations should have taken
place before the mass killing. Only six months
later, at the end of 2004, the Tak Bai incident
further created a worrisome rift between the
government and its Muslim citizens. Upon
the arrest of six southern men, crowds of
young locals gathered to demand their release. The demonstrators were met with brute
military force and were promptly rounded up
and taken to nearby Pattani. Over 80 locals
died during the ordeal from severe beatings
and mistreatment.
By 2006, when a political coup ejected
prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra from office, the death toll in the border provinces had
reached over 1400 victims. Unfortunately,
the sudden shift in government did not put
an end to the violence in the south. By mid2007 the body count had virtually doubled to
roughly 2600, despite the resurrection of the
Southern Border Provinces Administrative
DEEP SOUTH
Indian traders first visited the region around

600 BC and introduced Hinduism, which rapidly became the principal faith in the area. By
230 BC, when Chinese traders showed up on
the southern shores, large parts of Thailand
had been incorporated into the kingdom
of Funan, the first state in Southeast Asia.
At its peak, the state included large parts
of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam.
However, most of Thailands Deep South belonged to a kingdom known as Langka Suka,
which neighboured Kedah (in modern-day
Malaysia). The area would forever remain
linked to the Malay kingdoms rather than the
proto-Thai kingdoms.
Sumatras Srivijaya kingdom, a confederation of maritime states, annexed southern
Thailand and Malaysia in the 7th century
and held the land until the 13th century. The
kingdom became hugely wealthy from tolls
extracted from traffic through the Strait of
Malacca. As the Islamic sultanate of Kedah
rose and assumed power near the present
Thai-Malay border, the majority of Thailand
(including Tambralinga and nearby states)
adopted Buddhism. Islam was well woven
into the regions fabric of society by the 14th
century, spreading as far north as present-day
Songkhla. The Malay dialect of Yawi became
the main language of the Deep South and
Islam replaced Buddhism throughout the
region. This religious and linguistic boundary further cemented the great rift between
these future provinces and the rest of Thailand
further north.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, after
the fall of Ayuthaya, the Malay sultanate of
Pattani acted as a fully independent entity
until 1909 when the Anglo-Siamese Treaty
divvied up the blurred borders of Pattani and
Kedah. Pattani went to the King of Siam, as
did Narathiwat, Yala, Satun and Songkhla.
The rest of the region went to the British and
would later become part of Malaysia.
Culturally quite different from the rest of
the country, these provinces were comprehensively neglected by the central government over the next 50 years. Islamic traditions
and the Yawi language were discouraged by
the regions non-Malay administrators, and
systematic abuses of power contributed to
growing separatist sentiments.
In 1957 Muslim resentment against the
ruling Buddhist government reached boiling
D E E P S O U T H H i s t o r y 715
716 D E E P S O U T H C l i m a t e
lonelyplanet.com
THAILANDS DEEP SOUTH: SHOULD I GO?
DEEP SOUTH
Youre probably thinking, Why should I risk my life to find a farng-less beach when there are
so many other amazing beach destinations in Thailand? Wellyou have a really good point. The
last thing we want is for you to return from your tropical adventure in a cedar box. But dont
dismiss Thailands Deep South so quickly, intrepid traveller; there are many places in the region
that have never experienced the terrorism detailed in the global newspapers.
One quick thing before we give you the low-down: we (of course) cannot promise that any
destination is always safe (youll find lengthy Dangers & Annoyances sections in our coverage
of Thailands most popular vacation spots), so when we refer to a place as being tourist-friendly,
we mean that they are just as safe as, say, Phuket or Chiang Mai.
Satun Province has never been consumed in the political turmoil endemic to its next-door
neighbours. The provinces pice de rsistance is the must-see Ko Tarutao Marine National Park
(p720), a collection of 50-some scruffy jungle islands. Songkhla Province is also safe, save for the
provinces four southernmost counties, which have had blips on the police radar. The bustling
business town of Hat Yai (p726) is a great spot for market oglers, while Songkhla Town (p729)
is a haven for laid-back types who are looking to step off the tourist trail.
As far as the other provinces go? They are untouched hinterlands swathed in thousands of
years of religious history. But, like you mentioned before, there are plenty of other beaches and
temple towns awaiting the flash of your camera, so its probably best to start elsewhere. See
p715 for more information. Those who are contemplating a visa run across the Malaysian border
should consider traversing on the Ko LipeLangkawi circuit; however, if youre on a Butterworthbound train its not the end of the world to hop the border elsewhere.
Centre (dismantled by Thaksin in 2002) and

a public apology to the local Muslim population by Surayud Chulanont, the new prime
minister, for the mistakes of the Thaksin government. The intensification of the violence in
the Deep South was targeted towards places
of learning palpable reminders of the Thai
Buddhist governments unwavering grip on
the region. By 2008 angry rebels had incinerated over 200 schools and murdered almost
80 teachers, bringing the five-year death toll
up to 3500.
Today the terror-inducing demonstrations continue. Most of the attacks today are
firecracker bombs or other small exploding
devices that harm few but ignite fear. The
number of attacks always increases in the
month of November right after the prime
minister passes through for his yearly survey
and visit. Victims are chosen at random men
playing cards in a coffee shop are dragged out
onto the street and shot, a farmer working in
a rubber field gets his head cut off, or passengers in a van are stopped, searched and beaten
beyond recognition. Its the pure randomness
of these acts that causes the high amount of
local anguish. Thai authorities keep a watchful
eye on the main perpetrators Yawi-speaking
young males fuelled by severe drug addiction
and a lack of formal education. However, until
authorities are more proactive in reducing

these random acts of violence, the media will
continue to blame these traumatic blips of terror on the parliaments lack of control rather
than erratic behaviour of muddled separatists.
While motives remain unclear, most people
believe that violence will only end when all
Buddhists have been driven away, and the
provinces of Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat
can re-establish the sultanate they had over
a century ago.
Climate
If you are planning to visit the islands in Satun
Province, it is best to plan your trip between
early November and mid-May the seas tend
to be quite choppy during the low season and
ferry services drastically dwindle. Monsoon
rains between June and October make travel
along the Andaman Coast rather unappealing.
On the other hand, the regions gulf-facing
provinces experience the most rain between
October and December.
National Parks
Wild islands, pristine beaches and azure seas
provide plenty of opportunities for snorkelling and diving in remote Ko Tarutao
( p720 ) and Ko Phetra ( p719 ) Marine
National Parks.
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Language
Roughly three million citizens in Thailands
Deep South speak Yawi. Also called Pattani
Malay, the dialect is commonly spoken in
the Muslim community, who make up approximately 80% of the local population.
Dangers & Annoyances

For the last few years, a continuous string of
violent incidents have made travel in Pattani,
Yala and Narathiwat provinces a potentially
risky enterprise. For more information, see
the boxed text, opposite, and consult your
home countrys consular website.
Tourists have not been the targets of the
insurgency; however, the oft-unfocused nature of the political unrest has made it difficult to predict where and when the next
incident will occur.
Getting There & Away

Regular air, bus and train services connect
Bangkok and Hat Yai (p728). Boats connect Ko Lipe and Ko Bulon Leh to popular Andaman destinations like Phuket, Ko
Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta. Due to the tense
security issues in several regional provinces, most travellers making a visa run
across the border to extend their Thai
visas pass through Satun Province the Ko
LipeLangkawi (p725) route has become
particularly popular.
Getting Around
Getting around Thailands Deep South has
become quite straightforward in recent years.
Land transport gets funnelled through Hat
Yai (p728), while maritime transport along
the Andaman Coast passes through the port
town of Pak Bara (p719). The gulf waters are
rather quiet, other than foreign oil-drilling
prospects. Transport to the Ko Tarutao
Marine National Park generally shuts down
during wet season.
SATUN PROVINCE
sea. Although they lack the Andamans

trademark limestone karsts, these jungleclad islets have those perfect peach-coloured
beaches youve seen in all the postcards.
Satun has experienced almost none of the
political turmoil that plagues the neighbouring regions of Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat.
SATUN
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pop 33,400
If youre island-hopping your way up or down

the coast you probably wont stop in Satun,
a town that embodies both meanings of the
phrase provincial capital. Tears wont be shed
if you have to give this place a miss Satun
only has one real attraction, the Ku Den Museum
(Satun National Museum; Soi 5, Th Satun Thanee; admission
by donation; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun). Housed in
a lovely old Sino-Portuguese mansion, this

excellent museum was constructed to house
King Rama V during a royal visit but the governor snagged the roost when the king failed
to show up. The building has been lovingly
restored and the exhibits feature dioramas
with soundtracks covering every aspect of
southern Muslim life.
Sleeping & Eating

Sinkiat Thani Hotel (%0 7473 0255; 50 Th Burivanich;
r 663B; a) Satuns most comfortable choice is
right in the centre of town. Its housed in a tall
building and big rooms have plenty of mod
cons the best have fantastic views over the
town and jungle.
Ons (48 Th Burivanich; dishes from 40B; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) Popular with visiting yachties,
Ons is a Western-oriented joint serving up
plenty of international eats. Theres beer
on tap and plenty of local insight from the
friendly staff.
Chinese and Muslim bites can be scouted
on Th Burivanich and Th Samanta Prasit.
Try the red pork with rice at the Chinese
food stalls or the southern-style roti offered at
most Muslim restaurants (around 50B each).
Satuns popular night market (off Th Satun Thanee)
comes to life around 5pm and serves great
Thai curries.

BOAT
Boats to Malaysia and Tarutao leave from

Tammalang pier, about 7km south of Satun
along Th Sulakanukoon. Ferry services are
DEEP SOUTH
If you only have time to visit one province

in Thailands Deep South, make it Satun
(often pronounced stoon). The Andaman
Coasts southernmost region is rather quiet
compared to the tourist rush further north,
and the local highlight is the dozens of deserted islands swimming in the turquoise
S AT U N P R O V I N C E S a t u n 717
718 S AT U N P R O V I N C E S a t u n
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
SATUN
A
Th Khuhaprawat
To Pak Bara (60km);

Hat Yai (97km);
Trang (145km)
an
Th Reu
500 m
0.3 miles
run
grit Ja
Soi 10
Monkey
Mt Forest
Park
Kh
l on
5
Soi 5
2
Footbridge
Soi 8
Hatt
Soi
hakh
ang
am
Seuk
sa
Th Yatrasawat
Bamb
Th Satu
n Thanee
Th
11
2
10
14
4
ithi
Th Tirasathit
Soi 1
Soi 4
Wis
et Mayura
DEEP SOUTH
To Tammalang Pier (7km)
13
oon
Th
Th Sulakanuk
4051
Soi 3
Th
Pra
cha
-UThid
dwindling in Satun as Pak Bara (opposite),

further up the coast, is priming itself to become the regions major port town. Large
long-tail boats run regularly to Kuala Perlis in
Malaysia (200B, one hour) between 8am and
2pm. From Malaysia the fare is RM$20.
For Pulau Langkawi in Malaysia, boats
leave from Tammalang pier daily at 9.30am,
1.30pm and 4pm (250B, 1 hours). In the reverse direction, boats leave Pulau Langkawi at
8.30am, 12.30pm and 4pm, and cost RM$27.
Remember that there is a one-hour time difference between Thailand and Malaysia.
BUS
Buses to Bangkok leave from a small depot

on Th Hatthakham Seuksa, just east of the
iniw
Th
3
Sam
ant
a P
ras
it
Soi 6
12
Soi 8
15
Soi 10
Th
Th S
INFORMATION
Bangkok Bank.....................................1
Immigration Office.............................2
Post Office.........................................3
Siam Commercial Bank.......................4
Th Burivan
ich
Th Ap
hinurat
rumuluk
9
6
Phu
min
at
B3
B3
B3
B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ku Den Museum................................5 B2
SLEEPING
Sinkiat Thani Hotel.............................6 B3
EATING
Chinese Food Stalls & Muslim
Restaurants.....................................7 B3
Night Market......................................8 B2
On's...................................................9 B3
TRANSPORT
Buses to Bangkok.............................10
Buses to Trang & Hat Yai..................11
Minivans to Hat Yai..........................12
Srngtaou to Tammalang Pier.......13
Share Taxi Stand...............................14
Thai Ferry Center............................. 15
C3
B2
B4
B4
B3
B4
centre. Air-con services (820B, 14 hours) leave

at 7am and 2.30pm. A single VIP bus leaves at
4.30pm (1030B). Ordinary and air-con buses
to Hat Yai (80B, two hours) and Trang (100B,
1 hours) leave regularly from in front of the
7-Eleven on Th Satun Thanee.
MINIVAN & SHARE TAXI
There are regular vans to the train station in

Hat Yai (150B, one hour) from a depot on Th
Sulakanukoon. Occasional minivans run to
Trang, but buses are much more frequent. If
youre arriving by boat at Tammalang pier,
there are direct air-con vans to Hat Yai (180B),
Hat Yai airport (220B) and Trang (220B).
Share taxis can be hired to Pak Bara (400B,
45 minutes) or Hat Yai (400B, one hour).
lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around
Small orange srngtaou (also spelt
swngthew; pick-up trucks) to Tammalang
pier (for boats to Malaysia) cost 50B and
leave every 20 minutes or so between 8am
and 5pm from a depot opposite the Thai Ferry
Centre. A motorcycle taxi from the same area
costs 60B.
PAK BARA
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Satuns quiet coastline has a few small towns
that serve as jumping-off points for the islands in the Ko Phetra and Ko Tarutao Marine
National Parks, but the fishing community of
Pak Bara is the main point of transit. There
is a sense of anticipation in the air here as
new businesses open their doors and transport links continue to expand. Plans are in
the works to cut a deep-water channel across
the peninsula from Pak Bara to Songkhla
that would eliminate the need for vessels to
travel down to Singapore when passing from
Thailands gulf to the Andaman Sea. If these
plans are realised, Pak Bara and its new deepwater seaport will become an important point
on the map. Currently, there are no ATMs in
Pak Bara (the closest one is in La-Ngu).
Travellers planning to visit the quieter
islands of the Ko Tarutao National Park should
stop by the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485) just
behind the pier, where you can book accommodation and obtain permission for camping.
Travel agencies at the pier will gladly sell you
a ticket to wherever you want to go, and many
of these businesses also offer kayaking and
snorkelling day trips (from 1500B).
We wouldnt recommend putting Pak Bara
on your trips itinerary, but if you get stuck in
town, there are a couple of places to stay, including Best House Resort (%0 7578 3058; bungalows
590B; a), which is the closest to the pier. The
friendly owner manages a cluster of bungalows surrounding a pond. If youre waiting for
a speedboat to one of the islands, there are a
few Muslim restaurants huddling around the
pier the best one is next to Andrew Tour.
There are hourly minibuses from Hat Yai
(southern Thailands main transport hub) to
the pier at Pak Bara (150B, two hours) between
7am and 4pm. They also operate a reverse
service. A private taxi from Hat Yai will cost
roughly 1500B. A taxi from Trang costs 600B,
and a taxi from Satun will set you back around

400B. There are also vans to Trang (250B, 1
hours) and Krabi (400B, four hours).
The following ferry information is relevant
in high season only (1 November to 15 May);
a skeleton crew of slow ferries operates during low season. If you are on the mainland
and want to get to Ko Lipe, Ko Bulon Leh
or one of the other islands nearby, you must
pass through Pak Bara. If you are already on
an island (like Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi or Ko
Ngai) and want to travel to these southern
islands, there are speedboats that will take
you there directly. A coterie of ferries and
speedboats leave Pak Bara between 11.30am
and 3.30pm for the islands in the Ko Tarutao
and Ko Phetra Marine National Parks. Ferries
to Ko Bulon Leh cost around 350B and speedboats to Ko Lipe cost 650B (or 1200B return),
stopping at Ko Tarutao along the way.
KO PHETRA MARINE NATIONAL PARK

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Often outshone by the Ko Tarutao Marine
National Park next door, Ko Phetra Marine
National Park (%0 7478 1582; adult/child 400/200B)
is a stunning archipelago that includes Ko
Khao Yai, Ko Lao Liang (p712), Ko Bulon
Leh (the parks only island with privately run
accommodation; see p720) and 19 other furry
green isles.
The park headquarters is located 3km
southeast of Pak Bara at Ao Nun. Make sure
to stop by if you plan on pitching a tent on
one of the parks deserted islands.
Ko Bulon Leh
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Floating in the sea between the Trang Islands

and Ko Tarutao Marine Park, Ko Bulon Leh
(also called Bulon) is surrounded by crystalclear waters that mingle with its powder-soft
beaches. The island is in that perfect state of
limbo where its developed enough to offer
comfortable facilities, yet not so popular that
you have to fight for your own patch of sand.
The southern part of the island is where
youll find scenic Mango Bay, while in the north
there is a rocky bay thats home to small settlements of chow lair (also spelt chao leh). The
island is perfect for hiking the interior is interlaced with tracks and trails lined with rubber plantations that are thick with birds, and
you can reach most places on the island within
half an hour. There are also some bizarre rock
DEEP SOUTH
S AT U N P R O V I N C E Pa k B a r a 719
720 S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k
formations along the coastline reminiscent

of a Salvador Dal dream. A fine golden-sand
beach runs along the eastern coast, with good
coral reefs immediately offshore.
Resorts can arrange snorkelling trips
to other islands in the Ko Bulon group for
around 900B, and fishing trips for 300B per
hour. You can also hire masks and snorkels
(100B), fins (70B) and sea kayaks (150B
per hour).
SLEEPING & EATING
Most places here shut down in the rainy season. There are a few local restaurants and
a small shop in the Muslim village next to
Bulon Viewpoint.
Bulone Resort (%08 1897 9084; www.bulone-resort
.com; bungalows 600-1200B) My Bulone has a first
name, its b-e-a-c-h(sorry, we couldnt resist). The pick of the bunch when it comes
to budget options, this simple affair has airy
cottages in various sizes, all with plenty of
shade under the tall casuarinas that line the
northern part of the beach.
Pansand Resort (%0 7521 8035; www.pansand-resort
.com; 82-84 Th Visetkul; cottages incl breakfast 1000-1700B)
Pansand sits on the islands prime bit of beach.

There are amiable colonial-style bungalows,
and prim cottages lined up along green
grounds. The restaurant here is great and
staff can arrange snorkelling trips to White
Rock Island (1500B for up to eight people).
Its popular call ahead.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
DEEP SOUTH
As the number of ferries continues to expand

during high season, it is best to contact your
resort on the island for the most up-to-date
transport information. A speedboat departs
Pak Bara every day at 1.30pm (400B) and
arrives on the island at around 3pm. Boats in
the reverse direction leave at 9am. Ferries to
Ko Bulon Leh from Ko Lipe depart at 2.30pm
(550B); ferries to Ko Lipe from Ko Bulon Leh
depart at 10am. Additional speedboat services
between Ko Lipe and Ko Bulon Leh are available when there is enough demand.
KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK

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Like with any good secret, its only a matter
of time before someone lets the cat out of
the bag. In this case, that someone was a
producer from Survivor, Americas eminent
reality show, who chose this stunning ma-
rine park for the fifth instalment of the hit

series. Fortunately, stringent Thai law has
protected Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (%0
7478 1285; adult/child 400/200B; hNovmid-May) from
preying developers the national park is still
one of the most exquisite and unspoiled regions in Thailand. The massive archipelago
features myriad coral reefs, and 51 islands
covered with well-preserved virgin rainforest teeming with dusky langurs, crab-eating
macaques, mouse deer, wild pigs, sea otters,
fishing cats, water monitors, tree pythons,
hornbills and kingfishers.
The park officially closes in the low season (May through October), when virtually
all boats stop running.
Ko Tarutao
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Most of Ko Tarutaos whopping 152 sq

km is covered in dense, old-growth jungle
that rises sharply up to the parks 713m
peak. Mangrove swamps and impressive
limestone cliffs circle much of the island,
and the western coast is lined with quiet
white-sand beaches.
Tarutao has a sordid history that partly
explains its great state of preservation today.
Between 1938 and 1948, more than 3000
Thai criminals and political prisoners were
incarcerated here, including interesting inmates like So Setabutra, who compiled the
first Thai-English dictionary while imprisoned on the island. During WWII food and
medical supplies from the mainland were
severely depleted and hundreds of prisoners
died from malaria. The prisoners and guards
mutinied, taking to piracy in the nearby
Strait of Malacca until they were suppressed
by British troops in 1944.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The overgrown ruins of the camp for political prisoners can be seen at Ao Taloh Udang,
in the southeast of the island, reached via a
long overgrown track. The prison camp for
civilian prisoners was over on the eastern
coast at Ao Taloh Waw, where the big boats
from Satuns Tammalang pier now dock. A
concrete road runs across the island from Ao
Taloh Waw to Ao Pante Malacca on the western coast, where youll find the park headquarters, bungalows and the main camping
site. Boats travel between Ao Pante Malacca
and Pak Bara on the mainland.
Ko Bulo
Ko
Sakai
Ko Rawi
Ko Hin Song
Ko Sarang
Ko
Yang
To Ko Lantra
To Pulau
Langkawi (90km)
See Ko Lipe (p723)
Ko Lipe
Laem
Son
Ko Adang
Pirate's
Falls
Ko Tarang
Ko Bong Kang
ANDAMAN SEA
Adang-Rawi
Archipelago
Ko Hin Ngam
Ko Butang
Jonlong Leh
Falls
EATING
Canteen...........................................(see 5)
SLEEPING
Ao Molae Bungalows & Camp Sites..(see 3)
Ao Pante Malaka Bungalows & Camp
Sites.............................................(see 8)
Ao Taloh Waw Camp Sites...............(see 5)
E2
E3
E3
B4
B4
E2
E2
E2
Ko Ta-Nga
Ko Khai
Ko Klang
Ko Tarutao Marine National Park
To Ko Muk (66km);
Ko Lanta;
Ko Ngai
Ko Bulon
Don
Ao Son
Ao
Makham
Ao Molae
Ao Jak
Lo Po 5
Falls
Lu Du
Falls
8 10
Pulau
Langkawi
Ko Lidee
Pak Bara
20 km
12 miles
SATUN
La-Ngu
To Trang To
(99km) Satun
(46km)
MALAYSIA
Ko Rung
Nok
Ao Taloh Waw
Ao Rusi
Ko Le-Lah
Ao Taloh Udang
Ko Tarutao
Ao Pante Malacca
Pha Papinyong
Laem Tanyong
Hara
Ko Phetra
Marine National
Park
Ko Bulon
Ko Khao
Mai Pai
Yai
Ko Bulon
Rang
Ko Bulon Leh
0
0
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Ao Molae Ranger Station....................3
Ao Taloh Udang Ranger Station......... 4
Ao Taloh Waw Ranger Station............5
Chado Cliff......................................... 6
Laem Son Ranger Station....................7
Park Headquarters.............................. 8
Tham Jara-Khe................................... 9
Toe-Boo Cliff.................................... 10
DEEP SOUTH
INFORMATION
Ko Phetra Marine National Park
Headquarters..................................1 F1
Ko Tarutao Marine National Park
Headquarters..................................2 F1
KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK & AROUND
lonelyplanet.com
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k & A r o u n d 721
Next to the park headquarters at Ao Pante

Malacca, a steep trail leads through the jungle
to Toe-Boo Cliff, a dramatic rocky outcrop with
fabulous views towards Ko Adang and the
surrounding islands.
Ao Pante Malacca has a lovely alabaster beach
shaded by pandanus and casuarinas. If you
follow the large stream flowing through here
inland, youll reach Tham Jara-Khe (Crocodile
Cave), once home to deadly saltwater crocodiles. The cave is navigable for about 1km at
low tide and can be visited on long-tail tours
from the jetty at Ao Pante Malacca.
Immediately south of Ao Pante Malacca is
Ao Jak, which has another fine sandy beach;
and Ao Molae, which also has fine white sand
and a ranger station with bungalows and a
camp site. A 30-minute boat ride or 8km walk
south of Ao Pante is Ao Son, an isolated sandy
bay where turtles nest between September
and April. You can camp here but there are
no facilities. Ao Son has decent snorkelling,
as does Ao Makham, further south. From the
small ranger station at Ao Son you can walk
inland to Lu Du Falls (about 1 hours) and Lo
Po Falls (about 2 hours).
DEEP SOUTH
SLEEPING & EATING
All the formal park accommodation on Ko

Tarutao is around the park headquarters at Ao
Pante Malacca and at Ao Molae, where you
can pay your park entry fee (400B). The accommodation (open November to mid-May)
is far more sensitive to the environment than
the average Thai resort. Water is rationed,
rubbish is transported back to the mainland,
lighting is provided by power-saving light
bulbs, and electricity is available between
6pm and 7am only. Accommodation can be
booked at the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485;
cabins 600-1200B) in Pak Bara, or through the Royal
Forest Department (%0 2561 4292/3) in Bangkok.
Camping is permitted under casuarinas at
Ao Pante Malacca, Ao Molae and Ao Taloh
Waw, where there are toilet and shower
blocks, or on the wild beaches at Ao Son, Ao
Makham and Ao Taloh Udang, where youll
need to be totally self-sufficient.
The park authorities run two canteens (dishes
40-120B), one at Ao Pante Malacca, the other
near the jetty at Ao Taloh Waw.
information. One boat from Satun departs

daily (high season) at 11am and makes the
return trip at 3pm, at a comparable price to the
ferry (not speedboat) from Pak Bara.
Long-tails can be hired from the jetty at Ao
Pante Malacca for trips to Tham Jara Khae or
Ao Son for around 600B. To Ao Taloh Udang
youll pay about 1500B for a round trip.
Ko Khai & Ko Klang
gdktw*j!gdktd]k'
Between Ko Tarutao and Ko Adang is a small

cluster of three islands collectively known as
Muu Ko Klang (Middle Island Group). Most
interesting is Ko Khai, which has a very neat
white-sand beach and a scenic rock arch. The
coral here has suffered a bit due to boat anchors,
but both Ko Khai and Ko Klang have crystalclear water for swimming. You can get here by
chartered long-tail from Ao Pante Malacca on
Ko Tarutao, or from Ko Lipe; a round-trip fare
will cost around 1500B from either end.
Ko Lipe
gdkts]ugxUt
If youre yearning to take that quintessential
photograph of a tangerine long-tail bobbing
along in a perfect turquoise sea, then make a
beeline to Ko Lipe, and get here fast! Over the
last two years, developers have snared most of
the islands oceanfront property (and a good
amount of the scraggly jungle too). Although
little Lipe still clings to its laid-back vibe, the
islands chow lair village is shrinking, new
resorts are popping up and theres starting to
be a bit of a rubbish problem. Were afraid
that it wont be long before vacationers rename the island mini Ko Phi-Phi
ORIENTATION
Ko Lipe is a tiny boomerang-shaped island

with three main beaches: Sunset Beach, Sunrise
Beach and Hat Pattaya, which has a small
immigration office during high season (p725).
A series of paved pathways criss-cross the island, connecting all three strips of sand it
is best to bring a torch at night as sometimes
these roads can be confusing. Castaway Resort
(p725) has the best map of the island a charming faux treasure map.
INFORMATION
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Boats connecting Pak Bara and Ko Lipe stop at

Ko Tarutao along the way; see p725 for detailed
At the time of research, Ko Lipe still did not

have an ATM. Some midrange and high-end
resorts accept credits cards but its better to
D2
D3
D2
E2
EATING
Aroy................................................ 13
Caf Lipe......................................... 14
Flour Power Bakery.......................... 15
Pooh's..............................................16
TRANSPORT
Speedboat Departure Office............(see 4)
DRINKING
Jack's Jungle Bar..............................(see 8)
Karma Bar........................................ 17 D1
E3
E3
E2
E3
D2
E1
C2
D2
D3
Sunset Beach
ANDAMAN SEA
10
12
15
14
Hat Pattaya
11
Ao
Pattaya
13
Ko Lipe
17
16
Sunrise
Beach
Ko
Kra
To Pak Bara (63km);

Ko Muk (105km);
Ko Lanta (136km)
To Pulau Langkawi (95km)
Chao Leh
Village
0
0
SLEEPING
Bundhaya Resort.................................4
Castaway Resort.................................5
Forra Bamboo.....................................6
Idyllic Resort.......................................7
Jack's Jungle Bungalows.................... 8
Mountain Resort.................................9
Pattaya Song....................................10
Porn Resort...................................... 11
Sita Resort........................................12
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Forra Diving....................................... 2 D3
Forra Diving.....................................(see 6)
Ocean Pro..........................................3 D3
DEEP SOUTH
INFORMATION
Friends Travel.....................................1 E2
Immigration Office...........................(see 4)
KO LIPE
F
1 mile
2 km
lonelyplanet.com
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o L i p e 723
bring lots of baht, just to be on the safe side.

The island also does not have a 7-Eleven (see
the boxed text, opposite), so the local convenience shops tend to gouge customers with
highly inflated prices buy your sunscreen
before arriving on Ko Lipe.
When it comes to getting transportation
information or booking tours, find the girl
named Boi. She owns Friends Travel (Bois Travel;
%08 9464 5854; www.kohlipethailand.com), located
on the paved road between Hat Pattaya and
Sunrise Beach. She also sells some fantastic
homemade Ko Lipe souvenirs.
There is a threat of dengue fever on Ko
Lipe; see p774 for more information.
DEEP SOUTH
ACTIVITIES
If you have your sights set on exploring nearby

Ko Adang or Ko Rawi (p726), you can do it
under your own steam (long-tail rides cost
50B each way) or you can join up with a tour
(see right).
Divers with a Lipe bias will tell you that
there are dozens of sites in the area. What
they wont tell you is that the visibility can be
pretty hit-and-miss sometimes the water
is crystal-clear, at other times hard currents
drag in clouds of sand. Nevertheless, Ko Lipe
is a chilled-out place to do some scuba there
arent zillions of divers (like on Phuket or
Ko Tao) and the reefs are comparatively unharmed. The regions top dive spots include
Eight Mile Rock, a submerged pinnacle that lures
large pelagic fish; the Yong Hua Shipwreck, now
covered in marine growth; and Ko Bu Tang, with
its aptly named Stingray City site. There are
also pleasant diving spots dotting the channel
between Ko Adang and Ko Rawi.
Most diving schools run trips from early
November to mid-May and charge around
2200B to 2500B for a two-dive excursion. A
PADI Open Water course will set you back
around 12,000B to 13,500B (thats about
2500B more expensive than the schools on
Ko Tao; p611)
The following dive operators are recommended, using proper boats rather than
long-tails:
Forra Diving (%08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com)
Friendly French-run school with an office on Sunrise and
Pattaya Beaches.
Ocean Pro (%08 9733 8068; www.oceanprodivers
.net) Professional and knowledgeable staff run a seamless
operation.
TOURS
Day trips and overnight camping trips on

nearby Ko Adang and Ko Rawi have been
quite popular in the last couple of years. The
local chow lair offer excellent trips on which
tourists can snorkel through virgin reefs, sunbathe on lonely beaches and learn about the
unique lifestyle of the sea gypsies through
their stories and cuisine. Most day trips involve an authentically cooked meal of smoked
fish steamed in bamboo over an open fire. If
this type of adventure sounds like your cup
of tea, you can often find a chow lair guide
who will lead you on a multiday camping
adventure. It is important to ask around before joining a tour as the quality of the guides
varies and there are no tour offices. Day trips
start at around 400B.
Boi (see p722) also runs quality snorkel
trips (550B to 650B) from her travel shop.
SLEEPING
Space and electricity on Ko Lipe are at a premium, so accommodation is way overpriced.

Bungalows that go for 300B on other islands
are double the price on Ko Lipe during high
season. Most resorts close between May and
October, when the seas become rather choppy
and the speedboats stop running. Virtually
every resort has an on-site eatery, and several of our eating options (opposite) also rent
out bungalows.
At the time of research, the construction of
two five-star resorts was well under way, so if
your wallet runneth over, consider checking to
see if the Sita or Idyllic resorts are complete.
Porn Resort (%08 9464 5765; Sunset Beach; bungalows 700-800B) This collection of weathered
bungalows is the only resort on the comely
Sunset Beach. Its bungalow verandahs are
ideal for admiring the suns nightly dip into
the ocean.
Forra Bamboo (%08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com;
Sunrise Beach; bungalows 700-1200B) Giant bamboo
bungalows sit in a thicketed patch of land
facing Sunrise Beach, providing the quintessential Ko Lipe views of languid long-tails and
jungle islets further in the distance. Discounts
are offered when diving with Forra (left).
Jacks Jungle Bungalows (www.jacksjunglebar
.com; bungalows 950B) Located 150m inland from
Sunset Beach, these brand-new bungalows
sit in the heart of a vine-tangled rainforest. If
youre looking for ocean views, this is not the
S AT U N P R O V I N C E K o Ta r u t a o M a r i n e N a t i o n a l Pa r k 725
place for you; however, Jacks Jungle offers a

pretty good bang for your baht.
Pattaya Song (%0 7472 8034; www.pattayasongresort
.com; bungalows 1200-1800B) Above the rocks at the
western end of the beach, this Italian-run pad
has decent wood and concrete huts strung out
either along the ocean or a little way up the
hill. The Pattaya Seafood restaurant here serves
excellent food and the resort can organise fishing and island-hopping trips around the area.
Mountain Resort (%0 7472 8131; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 1600B; a) This big resort has outstanding
views of Ko Adang from its hillside location.
Winding wooden walkways lead up from the
beach, where youll find a terraced restaurant
with equally spectacular vistas. Recent sewage
problems (or rather the lack of a sewerage system) have left a section of the resort smelling
a tad funny, so poke your nose around before
dropping your bags. Beach massages (300B)
and snorkel gear (50B) are always on offer.
Bundhaya Resort (%0 7475 0248; www.bundhaya
resort.com; Hat Pattaya; bungalows incl breakfast 1600-4000B;
ai) Corporate Bundhaya is a necessary evil
on a laid-back island like Ko Lipe. The uberorganised resort doubles as a speedboat ticket
and immigration office. Soulless wooden
bungalows are comfortable but overpriced,
although the complimentary buffet breakfast
will keep you full until dinner.
Castaway Resort (%08 3138 7472; www.castaway
-resorts.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 3000-6250B; i)
Youre probably wondering why the heck theres

no air-con for a room that costs 3000B. Well, its
all part of the bamboo-chic charm. Everything
at Castaway feels decidedly upmarket, from the
candlelit restaurant to the breezy, teak-adorned
bedrooms stocked with myriad pillows.
EATING & DRINKING
In Bangkok 7-Eleven stores are thick on

the ground, but as you venture further
afield these palpable markers of globalisation start to disappear its like an
off-the-beaten-path-o-meter.
If youre stuck on a long bus ride with
nothing to do, play the 7-Eleven Game: try
to recall the number of superettes seen in
each place you visited. We counted one on
Ko Phi-Phi (the busiest 7-Eleven in Thailand),
four on Ko Tao and five on Ko Lanta. Youll
be happy to know that there are none on
Ko Lipe (for now)
Aroy (%08 7621 9488; dishes 80-180B) True to its

name (aroy means delicious), this popular
Thai restaurant sits along the inland road connecting Sunrise and Pattaya Beaches. The sign
is small so you might have to ask around, but
youll be happy you made the effort once you
sample the dishes.
Poohs (%0 7472 8019; www.poohlipe.com; dishes
from 120B) Poohs is a one-stop shop for all of
your island needs: a lively restaurant, a bar,
internet, a travel agency and a few so-so rooms
in the back.
For a round of beers, try Karma Bar (%08
5199 3101), an old fave near Mountain Resort, or
Jacks Jungle Bar (www.jacksjunglebar.com), a friendly
spot in the heart of the jungle that also serves
a few killer curries.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There is no pier on Ko Lipe. Ferries park near

the beach (either at Hat Pattaya or Sunrise
Beach) and you hop to shore (or on a day with
rough seas, a long-tail will pick you up from
the ferry). During high season (1 November
to 15 May) there are daily boat services departing from Pak Bara (11.30am and 1.30pm,
2 hours, 600B) and Pulau Langkawi (8am
and 9am, 1 hours, 600B). Boats from Ko
Lipe head to Pak Bara at 9.30am, 10am and
1pm, and to Pulau Langkawi at 3.30pm, 4pm
and 4.30pm. It is extremely important to note
that if you are doing your visa run from Ko
Lipe to Langkawi you must stay overnight
in Langkawi before returning to Ko Lipe.
The boats running between Pak Bara and Ko
Lipe almost always stop at Ko Tarutao and
Ko Bolun Leh.
DEEP SOUTH
Flour Power Bakery (%08 9464 5884; baked goods from

40B; hbreakfast & lunch) Located behind Sabye
Sport on Sunset Beach, Flour Power uses imported ingredients to craft delicious homemade cakes and brownies just like Mums
recipe back home.
Caf Lipe (%0 7472 8036; www.cafe-lipe.com; dishes
from 90B; hbreakfast & lunch) A local breakfast
legend, the Swiss-run Caf Lipe whips up
stellar morning repasts the unfinishable
muesli topples over with fresh fruit and colourful grains. A group of brand-new bamboo
bungalows (500B; no running water) squats
in the backyard.
THE 7-ELEVEN GAME
726 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i
A speedboat from Ko Phi-Phi departs at

8am, stopping in Ko Lanta (at 9.30am) and
Hat Yao (12.30pm) before arriving at Ko
Lipe at around 3.30pm. Boats going in the
opposite direction leave Ko Lipe at 10am, arriving on Ko Phi-Phi at around 5.30pm. A
second speedboat service operates between
Ko Lanta and Ko Lipe, stopping at Ko Bulon
Leh, Koh Muk and Koh Ngai along the way.
Ko Lipebound boats leave Ko Lanta at 1pm;
Ko Lantabound boats leave Ko Lipe at 9am.
The interisland speedboats cost around
2000B. See www.kohlipethailand.com for
more information.
400B to explore the interior of the island.

Wild camping is allowedmuch to the park
rangers chagrin.
Other excellent snorkelling spots include
the northern side of Ko Yang and tiny Ko Hin
Ngam, which is known for its unique stripy
pebbles. Legend has it that the stones are
cursed and anyone who takes one away
will experience bad luck until the stones are
returned to their source.
Long-tails from Ko Lipe will take you
to Ko Adang and Ko Rawi for 50B per
person, although you might have to do a
little bargaining.
GETTING AROUND
SONGKHLA PROVINCE
Motorbike taxis whiz around the island offering rides for 50B per person (there are no cars
on Ko Lipe); however, its so small that taxi hire
is only necessary if youre hauling some serious luggage. Long-tail taxis whoosh around the
island for the same price.
Ko Adang & Ko Rawi
gdktvkfy'!gdktik;u
DEEP SOUTH
lonelyplanet.com
Like Rabelais Gargantua and Pantagruel,

giant Ko Adang and Ko Rawi could clobber
little Lipe next door. The best way to explore
these islands is on a boat tour guided by a local
chow lair; see p724 for details.
Ko Adang has brooding, densely forested
hills and white-sand beaches, and is said to
be haunted by the spirits of dead elephants.
When the wind is blowing, the trees shake in
a manner that eerily resembles the sound of
a pachyderms cry.
Five stellar beaches, each one more beautiful than the next, flank the islands western
coast. Inland, visitors will find a network of
rutty trails that lead to highlights like Pirates
Falls, a freshwater source for marauders long
ago, and Chado Cliff, which offers excellent
views of the sandy dunes below. There is a
ranger station at Laem Son, although its not always occupied. Accommodation can be sorted
out at the park headquarters (%0 7478 3485; www
.dnp.go.th) in Pak Bara (see the website for more
details). When the park-affiliated restaurant
is open, dont miss out on the spicy smam
(spicy green papaya salad).
Ko Rawi is 11km west of Ko Adang and
has similar limestone hills and dense jungle, with first-rate beaches and large coral
reefs offshore. There is a ranger station on
Ko Rawi, and Crusoe wannabes must pay
Songkhlas postal code is 90210, but this aint

no Beverly Hills! The provinces two main
commercial centres, Hat Yai and Songkhla,
are not usually affected by the political
turmoil plaguing the cities further south.
Intrepid travellers will be able to count the
number of other tourists on one hand as
they wander through local markets, savour
Muslim-Thai fusion cuisine and relax on
breezy beaches.
HAT YAI
skfBsPj
pop 193,732
Welcome to backcountry Thailands version

of big city livin. Songkhla Provinces liveliest town has long been a favourite stop for
Malaysian men on their weekend hooker
tours. These days Hat Yai gladly shakes hands
with globalisation Western-style shopping
malls stretch across the city, providing local
teenagers with a spot to loiter and middleaged ladies with a place to do their cardio.
Tourists usually only get a glimpse of the citys
winking commercial lights from the window
of their train carriage as they connect the dots
along the peninsula, but those who decide to
explore will be rewarded with excellent local
cuisine (the city has hundreds of restaurants),
shopping (DVDs anyone?) and an evening
bar scene that brilliantly mixes cosy pubs and
bouncing discotheques.
Information
Bangkok Hatyai Hospital (%0 7436 5780-9;
bhhimc@bgh.co.th; 75 Soi, 15 Th Phetkasem) One of the
best health-care providers in southern Thailand, it offers
full medical care and has English-speaking staff.
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i 727
0
0
HAT YAI
B
C
Th Niphat Songkhrao 1
Th Rattakan
To Bangkok Hatyai
Hospital (300m);
Songkhla (28km)
sem
Th Suphasan Rangsan
Th Phetkasem
1
Sights
Th Niphat Uthit 3
Th Niphat Uthit 2
Th Sanehanuson
3
To Bus Terminal (500m);
Sadao (40km);
Dan Nawk (53km)
Th Siphu
nawa
To Sungai Kolok
(208km)
motorcycle taxi (40B) near the intersection of

Th Niphat Uthit l and Th Phetkasem, and get
off after crossing the river; it costs about 15B.
Sleeping
Hat Yai has dozens of hotels within walking
distance of the train station.
Cathay Guest House (%0 7424 3815; 93/1 Th Niphat
Uthit 2; r 160-250B) Ludicrously helpful staff and
plentiful information about onward travel
make up for the slightly scary rooms at this
popular cheapie.
Kings Hotel (%0 7422 0966; 126-134 Th Niphat Uthit;
s/d 450/50B; a) Its no royal palace, but Kings
offers prim rooms stocked with TVs, minifridges and dated decorations (c 1983). Its
two blocks from the train station.
DEEP SOUTH
If you arent into shopping malls and cabarets, then Hat Yai falls short in the attraction
department. Wat Hat Yai Nai, 1.5km out of town,
features a 35m reclining Buddha (Phra Phut
Mahatamongkon). Inside the images gigantic
base is a curious little museum and mausoleum with a souvenir shop. To get here, catch a
Th Padungpakdee
Near the railway bridge; handles visa extensions.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %0 7424
3747; tatsgkhla@tat.or.th; 1/1 Soi 2, Th Niphat Uthit 3)
Very helpful staff here speak excellent English and have
loads of info on the area.
Tourist police (%0 7424 6733; Th Niphat Uthit 3;
h24hr) Near the TAT office.
14
Th Kim Pradit
kro
it
Uth
Immigration office (%0 7425 7079; Th Phetkasem)
Th Niphat Uthit 1
Rat
TRANSPORT
Airport Taxi Service.......................... 17 C3
Minivans to Surat Thani................... 18 C3
To
One-Two-Go Office.........................19 C3
THAI..............................................(see 17) Padang
Besar
Train Station.....................................20 B3 (60km)
19
Th Thamnoonvithi
To
ei
9
Th Chi Uthit
15
g
Th Tephson
Th
ENTERTAINMENT
Barberry Club................................... 16 A1
Hansa Caf....................................(see 16)
Paragon Club.................................(see 16)
17
Th Manasruedee
lon
13
10
Kh
18
5
DRINKING
Post Laserdisc...................................15 C3
Th Prachathip
at
7
12
Chan
20
Th Duangchan
Th Saeng
vith
tharn
n
Soo
C3
C3
C3
C2
C3
C3
C4
Th Sang See
Th P
hetk
a
To Wat Hat Yai Nai (1.5km);

Minivan Terminal (5km);
Airport (12km)
Th
EATING
BP Hotel.............................................8
Kai Tod Daycha..................................9
Montien Hotel..................................10
Night Market....................................11
Novotel............................................ 12
Sor Hueng 3.....................................13
Tamrab Muslim................................ 14
ti Anuson
Th Rattakan
C4
C4
Th Jiranna
khon
Th Chu
11
Th Montri 1
B2
C1
Th Rotfai
INFORMATION
Immigration Office.............................1
Main Post Office................................ 2
Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)
Office............................................ 3
Tourist Police..................................... 4
SLEEPING
Cathay Guest House.......................... 5 C3
Kings Hotel........................................ 6 C4
Regency Hotel....................................7 C3
Th Pratham Uthit
16
t
Th Nipharao 3
Songkh
To Bangkok
(993km)
o2
ngkhra
t So
Th Nipha
400 m
0.2 miles
728 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E H a t Ya i
Regency Hotel (%0 7435 3333-47; www.regency

-hatyai.com; 23 Th Prachathipat; r 800-1400B; ais)
This beautiful hotel has that grand old-world
charm thats so very rare nowadays. Rooms
in the old wing are smaller (and cheaper) and
feature attractive wood furnishings, while the
new wing boasts amazing views.
Eating, Drinking & Entertainment

Hat Yai is the capital of southern Thailands
cuisine, offering Muslim roti and curries,
Chinese noodles and dim sum, and fresh
Thai-style seafood from both the Gulf and
Andaman coasts.
On Th Niyomrat, between Niphat Uthit 1 and
2, starting at Tamrab Muslim, is a string of casual
and inexpensive Muslim restaurants open from
about 7am to 9pm daily. Meals at these places
cost between 20B to 60B. The extensive night
market (Th Montri 1) specialises in fresh seafood and
Hat Yaistyle chicken. After gorging on streetstall food, try hitting one of Hat Yais upmarket
hotels. Great meals can be found at the Montien
Hotel, BP Hotel and the splurge-worthy Novotel,
which features an amazing all-you-can-eat sushi
dinner on Saturday evenings (450B).
Kai Tod Daycha (%08 1098 3751; Th Chi Uthit;
dishes 30-50B; hlunch & dinner) Hat Yaistyle fried
chicken is a dish known across Thailand, and
locals claim that Daycha does it best. Enjoy
your spicy bird over fragrant yellow rice.
Sor Hueng 3 (%08 1896 3455; 79/16 Th Thamnoonvithi;
dishes 30-120B; h4pm-3am) This popular local
legend with branches all over town prepares
heaps of delicious Thai-Chinese and southern
Thai faves. Simply point to whatever looks
good or order something freshly wok-fried

from the extensive menu.
Post Laserdisc (%0 7423 2027; 82/83 Th Thamnoonvithi;
h9am-1am) With an excellent sound system
and well-placed monitors, this is a great
joint to watch the latest blockbuster after
dark; music videos are shown as fillers between films. Rockers replace movies on some
nights, and the bands tend to be relatively
good. Quash the booze with cheap pub grub
from the East and West.
Cabaret enthusiasts should visit Barberry
Club, Paragon Club or Hansa Caf all are
located in a cluster downtown.

AIR
There are 12 daily flights connecting Hat Yai

to Bangkok (2800B to 3000B). Operators include THAI (%0 7423 3433; 182 Th Niphat Uthit 1), OneTwo-Go (%in Bangkok 0 2229 4260 ext 1126, elsewhere
1141; www.fly12go.com; New World Hotel, 152-156 Th Niphat
Uthit 2), with one daily flight (1850B), Nok Air
(%0 2900 9955; www.nokair.com) and Air Asia (%0
2515 9999; www.aira sia.com).
BUS
The minibus station is 2km southeast of the

town centre, though many buses make stops
in town. It costs around 50B to take a tk-tk
(pronounced k dk) to the bus junction.
Destinations from Hat Yai include Bangkok
(740B to 1075B, 14 hours), Krabi (235B, five
hours), Ko Samui (combined bus/boat 380B,
eight hours), Kuala Lumpur (350B to 450B,
nine hours) and Phuket (370B, eight hours).
DEEP SOUTH
MAKING A (VISA) RUN FOR THE BORDER FROM HAT YAI

The Malaysian border is about 60km south of Hat Yai, and many travellers come through town
just to extend their Thai visas. To get an in-and-out stamp, head to Padang Besar, the nearest
Malaysian border town (you do not need to head to Sungai Kolok). Buses are the most efficient
option, costing 39B (two hours, every 25 minutes from 6am to 6pm); minivans are 50B (1 hours,
hourly from 6am to 6pm).
On the Thai side, the immigration office (%0 7452 1020) is open daily from 5am to 9pm.
Theres another border at Dan Nawk, south of Sadao (open 6am to 6pm), which can be reached
by minivan (50B, 1 hours), but this route sees more through traffic than day trippers. On the
Thai side, the immigration office (%0 7430 1107) is open daily from 5am to 11pm. If you need
a longer Thai visa, youll have to see the Thai consulate in Georgetown, on Penang Island (accessible through the mainland town of Butterworth). Buses from Hat Yai to Butterworth are run
by private tour companies and start from 250B (four hours). Trains from Hat Yai to Butterworth
are slower and less frequent.
If youre not in a rush to stamp your passport, try doing your visa run in style by taking the
ferry that runs between Ko Lipe and the Malaysian island of Langkawi; see p725 for details.
lonelyplanet.com
TRAIN
There are four daily overnight trains to/from

Bangkok, and the journey takes roughly 16
hours. Prices range from 399B for a 3rd-class
seat to 1594B for a 1st-class sleeper. There
are also daily trains to Sungai Kolok (43B
to 284B), Butterworth (180B to 322B) and
Padang Besar (57B to 272B).
There is an advance-booking office and
left-luggage office at the train station; both
are open 6am to 6pm daily.
Getting Around
An Airport Taxi Service (%0 7423 8452) makes the
run to/from the airport (80B, four daily, during daylight hours). A private taxi for this run
costs about 300B.
Srngtaou run along Th Phetkasem
and charge 5B per person. A tk-tk around
town should cost you 10B per person, though
drivers do like to try to charge foreigners
20B instead.
SONGKHLA & AROUND

l'*]k
pop 87,822
The great city on two seas lends itself perfectly to the click of a visitors camera; however, slow-paced Songkhla doesnt see much
in the way of tourist traffic. Although the
town hasnt experienced any of the Muslim
separatist violence plaguing the provinces
further south, its still catching the same bad
press. This is a darn shame, since its the last
safe city where travellers can experience the
unique flavour of Thailands predominately
Muslim Deep South. The population is a mix
of Thais, Chinese and Malays, and the local
architecture and cuisine reflect this fusion at
every turn.
Big-name international petroleum companies and their exploration interests offshore
bring an influx of multinational (particularly British and Canadian) oil-company
employees to the region. The result is a
strong Western presence in Songkhla that
has helped create a relatively open-minded
and prosperous town.
The city has a split personality, with the
charming older section west of Th Ramwithi
towards the waterfront, and a modern mix of
business and suburbia to the east. If you enter
town from the north, or leave town heading
north, youll pass through Ko Yo and cross the

Tinsulanonda Bridges the longest concrete
bridges in Thailand.
Information
Banks can be found all over town.
Immigration office (%0 7431 3480; Th Laeng Phra
Ram; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Visa extensions can
be filed here.
Malaysian consulate (%0 7431 1062; 4 Th Sukhum)
Police station (%0 7431 2133)
Post office (Th Wichianchom) Opposite the market;
international calls can be made upstairs.
Sights
CITY CENTRE
Songkhlas top site is the excellent national

museum (%0 7431 1728; Th Wichianchom; admission
40B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun, closed public holidays), which
was constructed in 1878 in a Thai-Chinese
architectural style thats as delightful as the
art inside. Design highlights include curved
rooflines and thick walls. The grounds are
quiet and shady with a tranquil garden at the
front the perfect place to sit under a tree and
write in your journal. Inside there are exhibits
from all national art-style periods. The most
intriguing is on Srivijaya, a 7th- to 9th-century
Shivalingam found in Pattani.
If museums arent your style, head to the
beach. The residents have begun taking better care of the strip of white sand along Hat
Samila, and it is now quite pleasant for strolling or flying a kite (a local obsession). A
bronze Mermaid sculpture, depicted squeezing
water from her long hair in tribute to Mae
Thorani (the Hindu-Buddhist earth goddess), sits atop some rocks at the northern
end of the beach. Locals treat the figure like
a shrine, tying the waist with coloured cloth
and rubbing the breasts for good luck. Next
to that are the Cat and Rat sculptures, named
for the Cat and Rat Islands (Ko Yo and Ko
Losin). Fragments of a dragon statue are
sliced up and placed around the city. The
Nag Head (dragon head), which shoots water
into the ocean, is said to bring prosperity
and fresh water its a popular meeting spot
for locals.
Kids will enjoy cuddling with baby tigers at
the zoo (Khao Rup Chang; adult/child 30/5B; h9am-6pm),
feeding monkeys on Monkey Mountain (at
the north end of town), and pointing at clown
fish in Songkhlas brand-new aquarium (www
.songkhlaaquarium.com; admission 200B).
DEEP SOUTH
Orientation
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a & A r o u n d 729
730 S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a
lonelyplanet.com
0
0
SONGKHLA
A
11
B
Laem
Songkhla
Th
S on
n
Aw
18
Hat Son
Awn
B3
C3
A3
B5
B5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Aquarium........................................... 6
Cat and Rat Sculptures....................... 7
Khao Noi............................................ 8
Khao Tang Kuan (Monkey Mountain)..9
Mermaid Sculpture........................... 10
Nag Head......................................... 11
National Museum............................. 12
A1
C3
C3
B3
C3
A1
B4
Ram
Phra
aeng
Th L
Th Chon Charoen
EATING
Crown Bakery.................................. 16
J Glass.............................................. 17
Jetty Restaurant Departure Point......18
Khao Nawy.......................................19
Naa Suan Night Market................... 20
Parlang.............................................21
Pavilion Hotel Market.......................22
Roti Stand........................................ 23
Seafood Restaurants.........................24
Wachira Night Market..................... 25
10
khu
Th Su
8
Golf
Course
Trail
Cable
Car
Soi 5
Th Chai Khao
Lam
Th Sisuda
Th
sai
Th Saiburi
gam
ai N
Th S
an Mak
19
Th Su
21
Th Chaiya
16
Tinnasulanon Stadium
23 Sunday Market
22
Th Nasan
a)
Th
Rim
leh
ket
Tha
14
Th Sa
Day
Market
City Hall
rath
atha (P
Th Pl
Train
Station
28 (Closed)
Night
Market
on
gkh
Mon
Th
Rat
Th Chai
Th Saiburi
ng
Lua
withi
Th Phetchakhiri
Hat
Samila
27
Th Ram
Th Wichianchom
Th Sadao
Th Sai Ngam
26
15
Th Rong Meuang
12
Th Jana
5
Gulf of Thailand
13
Awn
Th Son
2
le
Tha
Th Noi
Thaleh
Sap Songkhla
TRANSPORT
Buses and Minivans to Hat Yai......... 28 C5
Buses to Nakhon Si Thammarat........29 C6
Minivans to Pattani & Yala............... 30 C5
Srngtaou to Ko Yo....................(see 28)
Taxi Stand......................................(see 27)
24
dam
30
on
amongk
etch
Th Ph
Ngam
Nai
Th
talung
kh
Na
Th Phat
ale
Th Th
on
29
Luang
wk
Na
Th
To
Bus Station
(200m)
20
Sa
ib
ur
To Green World
Palace Hotel (600m);
Zoo (4km);
Jetty (14km);
Ko Yo (14km);
Hat Yai (28km);
Pattani (162km)
25
ng
noe
Th Phetkalu
onimongk
Th Cha ongkon
am
Phetch
uri
Th Saib
Th Nang
Th Nakhon
Nok
Th Nakhon
DEEP SOUTH
cha
17
C4
B5
A1
B4
C6
C4
C4
C4
C3
D6
DRINKING
Baan Kafae.......................................26 C4
Corner Bier.......................................27 C4
INFORMATION
Immigration Office............................. 1
Malaysian Consulate.......................... 2
Police Station..................................... 3
Police Station...................................... 4
Post Office......................................... 5
SLEEPING
BP Samila Beach Hotel...................... 13 C3
Romantic Guest House..................... 14 B5
Yoma Guest House.......................... 15 B4
500 m
0.3 miles

KO YO
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A popular day trip from Songkhla, this island

in the middle of Thale Sap is actually connected
to the mainland by bridges and is famous for
its cotton-weaving industry. Theres a roadside
market selling cloth and ready-made clothes at
excellent prices. The must-see Thaksin Folklore
Museum (% 0 7459 1618; admission 60B; h 8.30am4.30pm) no relation to the former prime minister actively aims to promote and preserve
the culture of the region. The pavilions here are
reproductions of southern Thaistyle houses
and contain folk art, handicrafts and traditional
household implements.
Sleeping
Songkhlas hotels tend to be lower priced than
other areas in the gulf, which makes going up
a budget level a relatively cheap splurge.
Yoma Guest House (%0 7432 6433; Th Rong Meuang;
r 250-350B; a) Like staying in the home of the
Thai grandmother you never knew you had,
this homey option offers a batch of cutesy,
brightly coloured rooms.
Romantic Guest House (%0 7430 7170; 10/1-3 Th
Platha; r 250-380B; a) Substantial, airy abodes
smell fresh and all come with TVs. The bamboo beds are a charming extra touch. The
cheapest rooms have shared toilets.
Green World Palace Hotel (%0 7443 7900-8; 99 Th
Samakisukson; r 750-900B; ais) When expats
say that sleeping in Songkhla is a steal, theyre
not lying Green World is the proof. This
classy affair boasts chandeliers, a spiralling
staircase in the lobby and a 5th-floor swimming pool with views. Rooms are immaculate
and filled with all the mod cons of a hotel
twice the price. Look for it a few hundred
metres south of town.
oBP Samila Beach Hotel (%0 7444 0222; www
.bphotelsgroup.com; 8 Th Ratchadamnoen; r 1500B; ais)
Eating & Drinking

For quality seafood, head to the street in front
of the BP Samila Beach Hotel the best spot
is the restaurant directly in the roundabout.
If market munching is your game, youll find

a place to sample street food every day of the
week. On Sundays try the bustling market that
encircles the Pavilion Hotel. Monday, Tuesday
and Wednesday feature a night market (which
closes around 9pm) near the local fish plant
and bus station, and the Friday-morning market sits diagonally opposite the City Hall.
Khao Nawy (%0 7431 1805; 14/22 Th Wichianchom;
dishes 30-50B; hbreakfast & lunch) Songkhlas most
lauded curry shop serves up an amazing variety of authentic southern-style curries, soups,
stir-fries and salads. Look for the glass case
holding several stainless-steel trays of food
just south of the sky-blue Chokdee Inn.
J Glass (%0 7444 0888; Th Nakhon Nai; dishes 50-420B;
hlunch & dinner) J Glass is one of the top farng
hang-outs in town. Only the 1st floor is open
for lunch, while the welcoming upstairs patio
is reserved for dinner. Enjoy Thai faves (that
have admittedly been slightly westernised)
while watching the quirky artificial waterfalls
gush over the windows.
Jetty Restaurant (dishes 150-250B; hbreakfast, lunch
& dinner) Jetty offers a special dining experience
on Saturday evenings. At 6pm diners are invited to board a boat that wends its way up the
river from the Nag Head to Ko Yo and back.
The menu features tasty Thai and international standards and waiters speak excellent
English as most of them are students at the
local university.
If youre looking for some friendly expats,
head to Th Sisuda (north of Th Palatha),
where you will find a cluster of tasty spots frequented by the local farng gang. Corner Bier
is a local fave, as is Parlang next door; Parlang
is Isan-run, so go for the strips of dried meat
or the spicy smam. The Crown Bakery,
across the street from Parlang, is Songkhlas
Starbucks-iest spot, featuring free wi-fi, and
modern furnishings that orbit a mesmerising
fish tank. Go round the corner to find Baan
Kafae, where you can sip tea by candlelight,
and the best roti stand in town sitting directly
across the street.
Getting There & Around

From Songkhla youll have to go to Hat Yai to
reach most long-distance destinations in the
south (trains no longer pass through town).
The government bus station is located a few
hundred metres south of the Viva Hotel. Three
2nd-class buses go daily to Bangkok (593B),
stopping in Chumphon (312B), Nakhon Si
DEEP SOUTH
A landmark in quaint Songkhla, the citys poshest address is actually a really good deal youd
pay nearly double for the same amenities on
the islands. The beachfront establishment offers large rooms with fridges, satellite TVs and
a choice of sea or mountain views (both are
pretty darn good). BP can arrange a caddie for
the neighbouring golf course.
S O N G K H L A P R O V I N C E S o n g k h l a & A r o u n d 731
732 YA L A P R O V I N C E Ya l a
Thammarat (136B) and Surat Thani (207B),

among other places. One VIP bus to Bangkok
leaves at 5pm (1125B).
To Hat Yai, buses (19B) and minivans (25B)
take around 40 minutes and leave from Th
Ramwithi. Srngtaou also leave from here
for Ko Yo. Minivans to Pattani (90B) and
Yala (100B) leave from the southern part of
Th Ramwithi from 6am to 5pm.
Motorcycle taxis around town cost around
20B during the day; rates double at night.
Theres a taxi and motorcycle taxi stand beside
Corner Bier.
YALA PROVINCE
pop 44,800
YALA
pt]k
pop 99,954
Landlocked Yala feels quite different from

the neighbouring towns. The citys gaping
boulevards and well-organised street grid feels
distinctly Western, especially since Yala is
predominantly a university town. Thailands
cleanest city, as its known, attracts bright
minds from all over the kingdom.
Yalas biggest attraction is Wat Kuha Pi Muk
(also called Wat Na Tham or Cave-front
Temple), 8km west of town on the road
connecting Yala to Hat Yai (Hwy 409). This
Srivijaya-period cave temple features a reclining Buddha that dates back to AD 757. A
statue of a giant guards the temples entrance,
and inside small natural openings in the caves
roof let in the suns rays to illuminate a variety
of ancient Buddhist cave drawings. Kuha Pi
Muk is one of the most important pilgrimage
points in southern Thailand.
Take a breather from wt ogling and check
out what is known as the largest mail box
in Thailand, built in the township of Betong
in 1924.
Sleeping & Eating
DEEP SOUTH
The lack of tourism means great bargains for

a comfy bed.
Chang Lee Hotel (%0 7324 4600; 318 Th Sirirot; r
300B; as) A 15-minute walk from the train
station, the Chang Lee has plush rooms that
cater to business travellers. Facilities include
a karaoke nightclub and coffee shop.
Although inland, Yala has several excellent
seafood restaurants theres a cluster around
Th Pitipakdee and Th Sribumrung. Rice and
noodle stalls abound near the train station.
Buses to Hat Yai (150B, 2 hours) stop several time a day on Th Sirirot, outside the
Prudential TS Life office. Across the street is
the stop for other short- to medium-distance
buses north. Daily train destinations from
Yala include Bangkok (600B to 1700B) and
Sungai Kolok (3rd class 65B).
PATTANI PROVINCE
PATTANI
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Like a rebellious child that can never get
along with his stepmother, Pattani has never
quite adjusted to Thai rule. It was once the
heart and soul of a large Muslim principality
that included the nearby provinces of Yala
and Narathiwat. Although todays political
situation has stunted the areas development,
Pattani has a 500-year history of trading with
worlds most notorious imperial powerhouses.
The Portuguese established a trading post
here in 1516, the Japanese passed through in
1605, the Dutch in 1609, and the British flexed
their colonial muscle in 1612.
Orientation & Information

Mae Nam Pattani (Pattani River) acts as a
divider between the older town to the east
and the newer town to the west. Along Th
Ruedi you can see what is left of old Pattani
architecture the Sino-Portuguese style that
was once so prevalent in this part of southern
Thailand. On Th Arnoaru there are several
very old, but still quite intact, Chinese-style
homes. There are several banks along the
southeastern end of Th Pipit, near the Th
Naklua Yarang intersection.
Internet cafe (cnr Th Pipit Talattewiwat 2 & Th Pipit;
per hr 20B)
Le Rich Travel (%0 7331 3699; fax 0 7331 3911; 78/13

Th Makrut) Friendly agency that can help arrange everything from safe beach destinations to good local eats.
Pattani Hospital (%0 7332 3411-14; Th Nong Jik)
Police station (%0 7334 9018; Th Pattani Phirom)
Sights
If it werent for the political unrest in the
region, Pattani could be one of the better
beach destinations in southern Thailand.
Unfortunately, exploring much of the area
independently is not a safe option at this time,
PAT TA N I P R O V I N C E Pa t t a n i 733
DEEP SOUTH UNCOVERED

While riding in a taxi through Thailands Deep South, we got the inside scoop from our taxi driver,
Yeats Chaiyarat, on what really goes on when the bombs arent going off.
In your opinion, what would a traveller enjoy the most during a trip to Thailands Deep
South? I think the best thing for a tourist to see here is the local culture and way of life how
people live and work. The region is 90% Muslim, and Muslim families from all over Thailand send
their children to study at the universities in Yala, Pattani and Songkhla. A lot of the places in
the Deep South are university towns. The areas history is really fascinating too. You see, before
the area was split up between Thailand and Malaysia, it was known as Pattani Darusalam
a completely separate kingdom. And before Pattani, over 600 years ago, the area was called
Langka Suka, and included Penang and Langkawi. These days we dont hear a lot about the
areas history, but long ago these ancient kingdoms used to trade with the main imperialists
from around the world!
Besides the local culture and history, are there any sights that you would recommend? The
regions centres of worship are definitely the most interesting things to see on a trip in this area.
Outside of Pattani (about 5km) there is a Chinese temple called San Jao Meh Lim and a mosque
called Mas Jud Kreu-seh, which have been crumbling beside one another for the last 450 years
or so. The Chinese temple was built on the site where a young Chinese girl hanged herself when
her brother converted to Islam. There is a wooden statue of the young woman, carved from
the same tree which she used to hang herself. The most famous temple in the region is 30km
outside of Yala, and is called Wat Chang Hai. Its famous because a monk named Luang Po Tuad
used to live here and many people carry around an amulet with his image on it for good luck
and protection from harm. It is sort of like the Jatukham Rumanthep amulet from Nakhon Si
Thammarat (see the boxed text, p628). I also like Wat Kuha Pi Muk (8km from Yala; opposite),
an old temple which the locals call Wat Tham tham means cave. I dont really like beaches,
but I know that a lot of locals go to Hat Narathat (p734), Narathiwats most popular beach. Its
honestly not that nice, but there are no farng tourists. Hat Samila (p729) in Songkhla is probably the best beach for travellers.
What is the biggest misconception about the Thai-Malaysian border? Most tourists probably
think that the border is empty and that no one is crossing, but the border at Sungai Kolok is
always really crowded. Malaysian men are always lining up to cross the border into Thailand to
look for women and karaoke bars. Malaysia has cheaper petrol prices, so you will find tons of
people going in the opposite direction too.
Yeats Chaiyarat, originally from Phang-Nga Province, moved to Yala to
study at the local university. Today he is a private taxi driver.
versa); mention the name of your resort and

youll be deposited at the side of the road for
the brief walk to the beach.
When youre finishing toeing the crystal
gulf waters, see the boxed text, above, for a
couple of cultural suggestions in the area.
Sleeping & Eating

PATTANI TOWN
CS Pattani Hotel (%0 7333 5093/4; cspatani@cscoms

.com; 299 Moo 4, Th Nong Jik; r from 1500B; ais)
If you are spending the night in Pattani, you

might as well enjoy it. The CS Pattani features a gorgeous colonial lobby, two pools,
an excellent restaurant, a sauna and steam
roomthe list goes on. Breakfast is included.
Ask about discounts.
DEEP SOUTH
and there are plenty of pretty beaches further

north that are perfectly safe.
Locals frequent Laem Tachi, a sandy cape that
juts out over the northern end of Ao Pattani.
It can be reached by boat taxi from Pattani
pier. Hat Talo Kapo, 14km east of Pattani near
Yaring Amphoe, is another hot spot. And although its technically in Songkhla Province,
Thepha district, 35km northwest of Pattani, is
the most developed beach destination in the
area. There youll find a few slightly aged resorts that cater mostly to middle-class Thais.
At Hat Soi Sawan, near the Songkhla-Pattani
border, several families have set up informal
beachfront restaurants that are popular with
weekend visitors. To reach Thepha, hop on
any Songkhla-bound bus from Pattani (or vice
734 N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E N a r a t h i w a t
lonelyplanet.com
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0
PATTANI
A
cha
C2
A2
B2
C2
6
Th Arnoaru
Pat
tan
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Matsayit Klang ..................................5 C3
San Jao Leng Ju Khieng Shrine............6 C1
Ru
ed
i
10
Pe
ed
1
13
11
Pip
it
a Ya
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Th N
To Yala
(40km)
Satay Jao Kao (%08 9737 5417; 37/20 Th Udomwithi;

dishes 20-30B; h10am-6pm) This well-respected
open-air restaurant serves beef satay
local style with cubes of rice and a sweet
dipping sauce.
Several other restaurants along Th
Udomwithi come highly recommended by
Pattanis Muslim foodies.
DEEP SOUTH
THEPHA DISTRICT
Sakom Cabana (%0 7431 8065; 136 Moo 4, Tambon Sakom;

r 600-1000B; a) Located 40km from Pattani
town, this basic resort features a clean compound with several attractive wooden duplex
bungalows a short walk from the beach.
Thepa Beach Resort (%0 7432 5551; 255 Moo 4,
Tambon Thepha; bungalows 1140B; as) Located
near the Pattani-Songkhla border, this resort
features attractive bungalows (get one by the
lotus pond), not to mention a pool and calm
stretch of ocean.

Minivans are the regions most popular mode
of transport and there are several terminals
around Pattani town. As they regularly change
12
aklu
Th
Udo
mw
ithi
Th
omu
amk
Th R
Soi T
h
epiw
at 2
akru
Th M
Th
To Buses to Bangkok (500m);

CS Pattani Hotel (500m); Hat Soi Sawan (35km);
Sakom Cabana (40km); Thepa Beach Resort (50km);
Thepha District (50km); Hat Yai (134km); Songkhla (162km)
hir
om
iP
Th
To Laem Tachi (4km);

Mas Jud Kreu-seh (5km);
San Jao Meh Lim (5km);
Hat Talo Kapo (14km);
Narathiwat (93km);
Sungai Kolok (153km)
Th Mayor
Th
tta
n
Pa
Th
3 ik
gJ
on
Ma
e
Na
m
EATING
Satay Jao Kao.....................................7 C3
Clock
Tower
Th D
e
INFORMATION
Internet Cafe......................................1
Le Rich Travel.....................................2
Pattani Hospital..................................3
Police Station..................................... 4
1 km
0.5 miles
To Harbour
(2km)
TRANSPORT
Buses to Narathiwat...........................8
Buses to Yala......................................9
Minibuses to Hat Yai........................10
Minibuses to Narathiwat & Sungai
Kolok........................................... 11
Minibuses to Songkhla.....................12
Share Taxis to Yala...........................13
C2
C2
C2
C2
C2
C2
location, you will have to ask around for the

latest arrival and departure points. Minivans
run during daylight hours. Buses to Bangkok
depart from the small lot beside a petrol station near the CS Pattani Hotel; call %0 7334
8816 for ticket purchase and reservations. The
trip takes 15 to 16 hours and costs between
650B and 1200B depending on the quality of
the bus. Local taxis can take you anywhere in
town for 10B per person.
NARATHIWAT PROVINCE
NARATHIWAT
oikTb;kl
pop 44,200
Originally known as Ban Bang Nara, this

small provincial capital was renamed after a
visit from King Rama VI. He found the locals
to be so welcoming and friendly that he gave
the town its present moniker, meaning home
of good people.
Just north of town is Hat Narathat, a 5kmlong sandy beach fronted by towering pines,
which serves as a veritable public park for locals. Annual long-tail races are held here. The
N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E S u n g a i K o l o k 735
beach is only 3km from of the town centre;

you can easily walk there or take a taxi. Five
kilometres south of town, Ao Manao used to be
a popular sun and sand destination, but today
its the stomping ground of local fishermen.
The tallest seated-Buddha image in
southern Thailand is at Wat Khao Kong, 6km
southwest on the way to the train station in
Tanyongmat. The image is 17m long and 24m
high, and made of reinforced concrete covered
with tiny gold-coloured mosaic tiles that glint
magically in the sun.
The TAT office (%0 7352 2411) is inconveniently located a few kilometres south of town,
just across the bridge on the road to Tak Bai.
20B to get around. Keep an eye out for the new

buses (9B) that circle around town and stop
near Hat Narathat. Look for the light-blue
bus-stop signs along Th Phupha Phakdi and
Th Pichitbamrung.
Sleeping & Eating

Most of the towns accommodation is located
on and around Th Phupha Phakdi (signposted as Puphapugdee) along the Bang
Nara River.
Ocean Blue Mansion (%0 7351 1109; 297 Th Phupha
Phakdi; r 350-450B; a) Comparatively new, and
the only spot in town to really take advantage
of the riverfront view. Rooms include a huge
fridge and cable TV.
Jay Sani (%08 9657 1546; 50/1 Th Sophaphisai; dishes
30-60B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This is where locals go for excellent Thai-Muslim food. Point
to whatever curry or stir-fry looks good, but
be sure not to miss the sublime beef soup.
Every evening a ragtag night market (Th
Pichitbamrung) forms north of the clock tower.
pop 40,500
This soulless border town isnt a destination

unto itself so theres really no reason to spend
any time here. Also, the only train that stops in
town gets in around 10am, so youll have the
greater part of a day to find a way out (can you
tell how much we love this lil town?). Sungai
Kolok has become quite the mini Pattaya the
border, which opens at 5am and closes at 9pm
(6am to 10pm Malaysian time) is clogged during the daylight hours with Malaysian men
who snip across country lines for some afternoon delight. In the opposite direction youll
find savvy Thais who step over to Malaysia
for the discounted petrol.
Information
There are two immigration offices in Sungai
Kolok: one at the border ( % 0 7336 1414;
h5am-9pm) and a larger office (%0 7361 1231;
Th Charoenkhet; h 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) across
from the Merlin Hotel. A tourist police office sits at the border. There are plenty of
banks with ATMs in town as well as foreignexchange booths, which are open during
border-crossing hours.
CS Internet (Th Asia 18; internet per hr 20B; h10am9pm) Across from the Genting Hotel.
Sleeping
If you must stay the night in Sungai Kolok,
theres a large assortment of hotels to choose
from most cater to the by-the-hour
clientele.
Genting Hotel (%0 7361 3231; 250 Th Asia 18; r 5501520B; as) Geared towards the conference
trade, the Genting comes equipped with a pub
and a karaoke lounge. There are some good,
only slightly scuffed, midrange rooms, and
its away from the seedier areas.

BUS & MINIVAN
The long-distance bus station (%0 7361 2045)

is located east of downtown, from where
there are three daily air-con buses for the 18hour trip to Bangkok (720B to 1400B). From
DEEP SOUTH
Air Asia (%0 2515 9999; www.airasia.com) operates one daily flight to and from Bangkok
(3800B, 11.10am or 11.35am).
Air-con buses to Bangkok and Phuket and
most minivans now leave from the bus terminal 2km south of town on Th Rangae Munka.
The buses to Phuket (530B, 12 hours) originate
in Sungai Kolok, pass Narathiwat three times
daily (7am, 9am and 6.30pm) and continue via
Pattani, Hat Yai, Songkhla, Trang, Krabi and
Pha-Ngan. Buses to Bangkok (VIP/1st/2nd
class 1295/833/669B) take at least 15 hours
and depart several times during the day.
Minivans heading to Hat Yai (150B, three
hours), Pattani (100B, 1 hours), Songkhla
(150B, two hours), Sungai Kolok (70B, one
hour) and Yala (100B, 1 hours) generally
leave on an hourly basis from 5am to 5pm.
Narathiwat is small enough to navigate by
foot, although motorcycle taxis only charge
SUNGAI KOLOK
l=ws'Fd]d
Lonely Planet Publications

736 N A R AT H I W AT P R O V I N C E S u n g a i K o l o k
lonelyplanet.com
ISLAM IN THAILAND
DEEP SOUTH
At approximately 4% of the population, Muslims make up Thailands largest religious minority,

living side by side with the majority Theravadin Buddhists. There are some 3000 mosques in
Thailand over 200 in Bangkok alone. Of these mosques, 99% are associated with the Sunni
branch of Islam (in which Islamic leadership is vested in the consensus of the Ummah, or Muslim
community), and 1% with the Shiite branch (in which religious and political authority is given
to certain descendants of the Prophet Mohammed).
Islam was introduced to Thailands southern region between AD 1200 and AD 1500 through
the influence of Indian and Arab traders and scholars. To this day, most of Thailands Muslims
reside in the south, concentrated in the regions of Pattani, Narathiwat, Satun and Yala. These
southerners trace their heritage to the former Kingdom of Pattani, an Islamic kingdom whose
territory straddled the present-day border between Thailand and Malaysia. Accordingly, the south
shares both a border and a cultural heritage with its predominantly Muslim neighbour. Indeed,
most of Thailands southern Muslims are ethnically Malay and speak Malay or Yawi (a dialect of
Malay written in the Arabic script) in addition to Thai. These cultural differences, inflamed by a
history of perceived religious and linguistic discrimination, have led to a feeling of disconnection
from the Buddhist mainland among a radical few of the southern Muslims. Some have called for
secession, and fewer still have, in the past, taken up armed insurgency.
Proper etiquette in Thai Muslim communities is simple and predictable. Islam forbids the
consumption of pork and alcohol. In very conservative communities, multigender groups will
be split off into separate rooms upon arrival. Men and women will be reunited as they depart.
Just as is the case when visiting wt, mosques will not permit entry to those in shorts or shoes.
Women should not wear short skirts, sleeveless tops or any particularly revealing clothing; simply think conservative. Unless invited to do so, avoid entering the mosques main prayer hall,
as this is a sacred space intended for Muslims. Do not bring cameras, and remember to turn off
mobile phones.
Friday is the day of the Sabbath, with religious activities culminating between 11am and 2pm.
Locals may be too busy on Friday for visitors and most restaurants close during this time.
Bangkok, the VIP bus leaves at 5.15pm, three

1st-class buses leave between 9pm and 10pm,
and the 2nd-class leaves at 9pm. There are
two early-morning buses that head to Phuket
(580B), stopping in Krabi (460B) along the
way. Minivans to Narathiwat (80B) depart
on the half-hour from across from the train
station. Minivans heading to Pattani (120B),
Yala (90B) and Hat Yai (180B) depart hourly
during daylight hours, and leave from the
Genting Hotel.
passing between Thailand and Malaysia (in

either direction) there is really no reason to
disembark here. Daily departures connect
Sungai Kolok to Surat Thani, Nakhon Si
Thammarat and Hat Yai all of them continue on to Bangkok.
From Rantau Panjang (Malaysian side), a
share taxi to Kota Bharu will cost about RM$8
per person (about 80B) or about RM$30 to
charter the whole car yourself. The ride takes
around an hour.
TRAIN
Getting Around
Trains from Bangkok to Sungai Kolok leave

in the early afternoon and take 20 hours
(180B to 1000B) youll arrive at around
10am, which will give you plenty of time to
get the heck out of town. If you are on a train
The border is about 1km from the centre of

Sungai Kolok or the train station. Motorcycle
taxis zoom around town itll cost you around
30B to make the ride between the city centre
and the border.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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boat bobbing in the perfect cerulean waters

andise of questionable authenticity in Hat Yai

Letting the local chow lair guide you to

hidden beaches on Ko Adang and Ko Rawi

Enjoying your steaming street-stall noodles

ing your fingers in the warm sand of one

POPULATION: 3.91 MILLION

on the sands of Songkhla (p731)

See Ko Tarutao Marine National Park & Around Map (p721)

Khao Nam Khang

Hat Talo Laweng

Hat Talo Kapo

point and separatists initiated a guerrilla war

Indian traders first visited the region around

THAILANDS DEEP SOUTH: SHOULD I GO?

Centre (dismantled by Thaksin in 2002) and

authorities are more proactive in reducing

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Dangers & Annoyances

Getting There & Away

sea. Although they lack the Andamans

If youre island-hopping your way up or down

a lovely old Sino-Portuguese mansion, this

Sleeping & Eating

Getting There & Away

Boats to Malaysia and Tarutao leave from

If you only have time to visit one province

To Pak Bara (60km);

To Tammalang Pier (7km)

dwindling in Satun as Pak Bara (opposite),

Buses to Bangkok leave from a small depot

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

centre. Air-con services (820B, 14 hours) leave

There are regular vans to the train station in

and a taxi from Satun will set you back around

KO PHETRA MARINE NATIONAL PARK

Floating in the sea between the Trang Islands

Getting There & Away

formations along the coastline reminiscent

Pansand sits on the islands prime bit of beach.

As the number of ferries continues to expand

KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

rine park for the fifth instalment of the hit

Most of Ko Tarutaos whopping 152 sq

See Ko Lipe (p723)

Ko Tarutao Marine National Park

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK & AROUND

Next to the park headquarters at Ao Pante

SLEEPING & EATING

All the formal park accommodation on Ko

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

information. One boat from Satun departs

Ko Khai & Ko Klang

Between Ko Tarutao and Ko Adang is a small

Ko Lipe is a tiny boomerang-shaped island

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Boats connecting Pak Bara and Ko Lipe stop at

At the time of research, Ko Lipe still did not

To Pak Bara (63km);

To Pulau Langkawi (95km)

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES