The Duties and Responsibilities of a Garment Merchandiser

Garment merchandising position is a RMG industry. But it remains true that it contains a
lot of risks. To handle all items related with Garment Merchandising is s hard. But if
someone (Merchandiser) draws the high concentration on their job then he will become a
successful merchandiser.
Anyway, Now I would like to write the mail role of a Merchandiser. The main role of a
garment merchandiser is to collect garment export order (Export L/C). Then produce the
garments and export. If a Merchandiser cans the all operation successfully then his
garment owner as well as he will be benefited. But its a matter of true that to perform
those above functions successfully needs huge knowledge and tremendous effort for a
Merchandiser.

Duties and Responsibilities of Merchandiser:

The major duties and responsibilities of a garment merchandiser are as below@ To procure or collect a garment export order or export L/C
@ To estimate time schedule for the export of those garments as per L/C
@ To arrange all the materials needed for the garments to manufacture and export
@ To monitor collection of raw materials as per time schedule
@ To monitor the quantity and quality of the collected raw materials
@ To select garment factory if needed
@ To monitor garment production progress as per time schedule
@ To monitor desired/ imposed quality level of the produced garment
@ To monitor garment packing instructions
@ To monitor banking and shipment arrangements as per schedule
@ To maintain continuous liaison with the buyer representative if needed
@ To maintain continuous liaison with controlling authorities
@ To follow up payment collection against garments export as per schedule
@ And finally, To earn profit through garment export execution

Button = mmx1.6 = Line (10mm = 1cm)

1GG=1728 Pcs. [GG=Great Gross] =12
144Pcs=1G (Gross)
Formula: Buttons Dias / 0.635 mm
Example: 25/0.635mm
= 39.37
=40
@ This button should be Lead /Phthalates free Non Toxic buttons.
@ Button pull test must be pass by 90 N

Scotch Tape: 1Roll = 25 Yards, Gum Tape: 1Roll = 50 Yards

Sewing Thread: Made in 100% polyester

20/3 -2000mitres = 1 cone
20/2 3000mitres = 1 cone
40/2 4000mitres = 1 cone
50/2 4000mitres = 1 cone
60/2 5000mitres = 1 cone

Interlining:
Woven Interlining / Fusing
Paper Interlining / Fusing
Both are: a) Fusible b) Non- Fusible

Measurement of Different Garments (Conversion)

16drams= 1ounce
16ounces= 1pound (lbs)
Gross Weight(KG) 20
454gm=1lbs(pound)
1gm= 0.0022lbs
Net Weight (KG) 19.5
1kg=2.2046lbs
1lbs= 0.454kg
CBM- Cubic meter(length*width*height)
1meter= 39.37inch
1inch= 2.54cm
1dz weight= gm/37.8= lbs
100cm= 1m
10mm = 1cm
36inch = 1 yard
1inch = 8 shuta
1.094yard = 1metre
28.20gm = 1ounce
1 stone = 14 lbs
1 quarter = 28 lbs
1 ton = 2240 lbs
Table of Land Measurements:
LINEAR MEASURE:
1 inch = 0.0833 foot
1 foot = 12 inches = 30.48cm
1 vara = 2.75 feet
16.5 feet = 25 links
1 chain = 100 links
1 rod = 5.5 yards

1 link = 7.92 inches

1 vara = 33 inches
1 yard = 3 feet = 91.44 cm
1 rod/pole/perch = 25 links
1 rod = 16.5 feet
100 links = 4 rods

1 chain = 66 feet =22 yards = 100 links (length of a cricket wicket,

about 20 metres)
1 link = 7.92 inches
1 mile = 80 chains
1 mile = 320 rods
1 mile = 8000 links
1 mile = 5280 feet
1 mile = 1760 yards
SQUARE (sq.) MEASURE:
144 sq inches = 1 sq foot (ft.)
9 sq. ft. = 1 sq. yard
(yd.)
16 sq. rods = 1
sq. yd.
1 sq. rod = 272.25 sq. ft.
1 sq. chain = 4356 sq. ft.
1 acre = 4 rods = 10 sq. chains = 4840 sq. yds = Statute acre = 0.40
hectare (a good sized football pitch)
160 sq. rods = 1 acre
43560 sq. ft. = 1 acre
640 acres = 1 sq.
mile
1 sq. ft. =
144 sq. inches
# Spandex/Lycra-Wool with1 ply elastic
Nylon- Fresh wool
SWEATER: Say, 1pc garment weight= 245gm
245/37.8=6.48lbs per dz garments weight/12=0.54lbs per pc garment
weight
Again, 1cone yarn weight =800gm

so, 800/1000 *2.2046=1.76lbs

There are below some yarn name:

Acrylic 20/2, 32/2, 34/2, 36/2

Acrylic Mlange 32/2, 36/2

Acrylic Tube Yarn1-2.5

Acrylic Cashmere Like/ Mlange 28/2

Acrylic AP Cashmere Like 28/2

Acrylic Mohair Yarn/ Mlange 1/5.5

Acrylic Mohair Mlange 1/13

Acrylic Mohair Like 1/9

Acrylic Chenille 1/3.5

Acrylic Cotton Like 27/2

Acrylic Smiling 1/9

Cotton 20/2, 30/2, 32/2

Cotton Compact 20/2, 32/2

Cotton Combed Compact 40/2

Viscose (Rayon) 30/2

Organic Cotton 32/2

Acrylic Cotton 20/2, 30/2,

Cotton Viscose 30/2

Cotton Modal 30/2

Acrylic Wool 32/2

Acrylic Anti-Pilling Marino Wool 60/2

Acrylic Mercerized Marino Wool 48/2

Nylon 70d/1, 70d/2,

Merino Wool 36/2

Nylon Viscose Wool 32/2

Cotton Cashmere Like 30/2

Wool Acrylic 28/2

Cotton Silk 30/2

Acrylic Rayon 30/2

Acrylic Nylon Flat Tape Yarn 1/3

Acrylic Nylon Twist 1/19

Acrylic Wool 32/2

Acrylic Wool Brush 1-2.5

Acrylic Angora

Cotton Merino Wool30/2

Mlange- Yarn + viscose (the sodium salt of cellulose xanthenes)

Acrylic Cash million 2/36, 2/32

Lambs wool Nylon 2/16

There are below some quotes of Garment office:

Quality in the first time- Starting every operation with right quality.

No recruitment of child labour

Today is the day, Tomorrow will never come

Please dont enter lift at the time of fire

No dust in the garments

Keep area clean

Needle free zone

No smoking

Safety first

First aid box

Fire alarm

Danger Electricity

Emergency Alarm switch

Stair going down

Littering prohibited

On emergency export duty

Smoking and Naked flames forbidden

Drinking water

Emergency exit

Lift is very dangerous at the time of fire

Climbing stairs is very way, To keep daily effective exercise avoid lift in house
and offices

Container Loading:

FCL- Full container loading

LCL- Less container loading

Vessel:
Mother Vessel
Feeder Vessel
Air:
Formula of air container booking:
6000 cm3 = 1KG ------- $2.80

Destination:
NDC-UK
SDC-UK
DIDC-UK
Jabel Ali-Dubai
Chittagong- BD

Consigner
Origin
Exporter/Supplier

Consignee
Destination
Importer/ Buyer

Kind of WASH:

Normal Wash: After wash fabric is soft, clean

Enzyme Wash: After wash fabric is soft, use affect

Normal Enzyme: Poplin, Baby Canvas , Fine twill

Silicon Enzyme: After wash fabric is new look, Used in ladies dress.

Heavy Enzyme: Heavy canvas, Heavy denim, Heavy twill

Stone Enzyme: White affect, just denim.

Bleach Wash: 80% color fadeout, More clean

Whitening Wash: After wash fabric is whiter/ light white

Pigment Wash: After wash fabric is more clean and colorful

Acid Wash: First wash stone + potassium permanganate (without white) then

wash with water

Caustic Wash:

Garment Wash and Over-Dye: First wash then dye choice able color

Send Blast: After wash fabric is white affect / old affect

Crinkle: After wash fabric looks a small fold or crease

Destroy Affect: After use this fabric is damage some or small aria, Used
Granting Machine

Fabric Consumption:
KNIT
Formula-1: {1/2 chest x (Bl+Slv L)} x2 / 10000000 X GSM + Wastage
x12 Kg/Dz
(Tens of Millions)
Formula-2: [{(Body Length + Sleeve Length) * Chest}/ 10000] * GSM / 1000
Example: Body Length- 80cm+2cm+1cm= 83cm
Sleeve Length- 28cm+2cm+1cm= 31cm
Chest- (56*2)cm= 112cm+2cm= 114cm
GSM- 220gm
NOW: [{(83+31)*114}/10000]*220/1000
= [{114*114}/10000]*220/1000
= [12996/10000]*220/1000
= 1.2996*220/1000
= 285.9112/1000
= 0.28591kg + 15% (Wastage)
= 0.28591kg+ 0.04288
= 0.32879kg
= 0.33kg
SHIRT
Formula: (Body Length + Sleeve Length) * Chest/ (Fabric Width*36inch)
Example: Body Length- 28.5inch+ 0.5inch = 29inch
Sleeve Length- 24inch+ 2.5inch+ 2inch = 28.5inch
Chest- 46.5inch+ 2.5inch+ 2inch = 51inch
Fabric Width = 57inch
NOW: (29inch+ 28.5inch)* 51inch/ (57inch*36inch)
= 57.5inch*51inch/ (57inch*36inch)
= 2932.5inch/ 2052inch

= 1.43yards+ 5% (Wastage)
= 1.43yards+ 0.07145yards
= 1.50yards
PANT
Formula: (Inseam Length+ Front Rise)*Thigh*2/ (Fabric Width*36inch)
Example: Inseam Length- 29inch+ 1.5inch= 30.5inch
Front Rise- 13.5inch+ 1.5inch+ 2inch= 17inch
Thigh- 25inch+ 2inch= 27inch
Fabric Width- 57inch
NOW: (30.5inch+17inch)*27inch*2/ (57inch*36inch)
= 47.5inch*54inch/ (57inch*36inch)
= 2565inch/2052inch
= 1.25yards+5% (Wastage)
= 1.25yards+0.0625
= 1.32yards
@ Garments- Any article of clothing.
@ Knit- From by interweaving yarn
@ Fiber- A slender thread
@ knitting- The work of a knitter
@ Sweater- A knitted jacket usually of wool (An employer who overworks and
underpays those who work for him)
@ Sweat-shop- A work shop in which the employees work under bad conditions and for
low wages
@ Sweating-System- The practice of working poor
people under insanitary conditions and at low wages
@ Wove > Woven (pp of weave) - Form into a fabric
@ Weaver- One who weaves
@ Weaving- The act or art of forming cloth in a loom (a machine for weaving cloth)
@ Unite by inter-mixture- compose (He has woven a romantic tale)
@ Ware- Things manufactured for sale
@ Ware-house- a store for waters or goods
@ GSM- Gram per Square Meter (weight of 1 meter fabric in gram)
@ Seam- The joining of two edges of a cloth.
@ EPI-Ends per inch
PPI- Picks per inch
@ SPI- Stitch per inch SPC- Stitch per com
@ CVC- Chief Value cotton
@ Carton- A box made of cardboard

@ Cartoon- A cinematograph film made of comical drawings

SQC- Statistical Quality Control:

Statistical quality control means the employment of various statistical methods in the
quality control program.
AQL- Acceptable Quality Label
Quality- Mr. Adward Denim (Japan)
Quality- Quality characteristics of an entity (product, services etc.) that bears on its
ability to satisfy stated and implied needs
Quality Control- Quality control is an effective system for interchanging the quality
maintenance and quality improvement efforts of various groups is an organization, So as
to enable productions at the most economical levels which allow full satisfaction for the
customer.
TQM- Total Quality Management:
Total quality management is described as an all in-charge fully integrated productivity
technique. It helps to create new markets, expend existing markets and recapture lost
markets by utilizing optimum capability of man, machine, material method and products
with reduced cost.
So, total quality control starts from market. i.e. from purchasing material, machine and
ends in the market. Selling the finished products in the market including after sale service
it in clouds market analysis quality control, preventive, maintenance, wastage control,
inventory control, cost reduction and after sales services.

3 Types of Needle:

Sharp point- Woven

Ball point- Knit

Cutting point- Leather, Hard fabric

Garments Quotes:
Woven: Two sets of yarn which form a structure by using interlacement is called woven
Knit: One set of yarn which form a structure by using interloping is called knit.
Sweater: Generally sweater is fully fashion. i.e. Fully fashion is a method which made a
shape by using interloping/ interlocking that made/form encoring / doffing number of
needle

Single Jersey: If knit fabric both side not same is called single jersey (single jersey)
Double Jersey: If knit fabric both side same is called double jersey. Jersey stitch form
face to face (interlock & rib)
Chest-below: Crutch point left seam to right seam straight.
Waist: Middle of the left seam to middle of the right seam straight. (Part of the human
body between the ribs and hips)
Sweep: End of the left seam to end of the right seam straight. (To extend in a long curve
or line or slope).
Sleeve-Length: Head of the sleeve joint to end of the sleeve bottom rolling/ cuff.

S
l.

MACHINERY BY BRAND & MODEL:

Machine Name

Brand

Model
DDL-227
DB2-B735-6
JK-5550
GC-6150H
LH-3528S
LT2-B842-3
MO-2316
MO-732
MH-380
DFB-1404
MT-12
MS-1190/1190M
KG-43001
LH4-B814-2
LBH-781
LK3-B438-E
SZ-25N

SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH

M/C

TWO NEEDLE LOCK STITCH M/C

OVER LOCK M/C

4
5

TWO NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH M/C

MULTI NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH
M/C

FEED OF THE ARM

BUTTON HOLE M/C

8
9
1
0
11
1
2

BUTTON SEWING M/C

BAR TACK M/C

JUKI
BROTHER
JACK
TYPICAL
JUKI
BROTHER
JUKI
PEGASUS
JUKI
KANSAI
RENOUN
JUKI
DALIAN
BROTHER
JUKI
BROTHER
JUKI

PIN HOLE M/C

STAGER

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING M/C

PROTEX

SADDLE STITCH M/C

JUKI

SS-3888

1
3
1
4
1
5

COLLAR BOTTOM CUTTING M/C

1
6

FUSING M/C

1
7
1
8
1
9
2
0
2
1
2
2
2
3
2
5
2
6
2
7
2
8
2
9
3
0

BLAIND STITCH M/C

TREASURE

BS-101
KSP-586

KM/EASTM
AN
HASHIMA
FIBLON
NGAISHING

KS-AUV/629X

SIDE SEAM FUSING M/C

NGAISHING

NS-8232

FABRIC INSPECTION M/C

TSSM

END CUTTER M/C

KM

KC-02

AIR COMPRESSER

VESPA

MT-23P

GENERATOR

PETBOW

LTA10-G3

BELT LOOP CUTTER M/C

ACE
PANDORA
CE
SUT & LIC
ASIAN STAR

C-11
MET 30+
SINGAOPRE
CHINA

DIP DYE M/C

ASIAN STAR

CHINA

ACID WASH M/C

ASIAN STAR

CHINA

HYDRO-EXTRACTOR

SUT & LIC

SUT & LIC
ASIAN STAR

SINGAOPRE
SINGAOPRE
CHINA

ASIAN STAR

CHINA

STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING M/C

METAL DETECTOR M/C

WASHING/DYEING M/C

STREAM DRYER
COLD DRYER

HPM-600 B
HM-450
NS-8934

Brief Discussion of various Common items of Garments:

Pullover- A woolen Jersey put on over the Jumper

Sweater- A knitted jacket usually of wool (poshmi bona jama )

T-Shirt- Round neck, U-neck, V-neck, Turtles neck (high collar)

Polo-Shirt- Uses of Ladies & Gents

Tunic Polo Shirt- Side seam cut under part of a T-shirt

Tang Top- Womans Guernsey

String- Womans smooth & glossy fine or thin tape Guernsey

Basic/ Simple/ Plain Shirt- Generally we wear those shirts are called Basic/
Simple/ Plain Shirt. There cant be used another parts in order to making design

Check/ Stripe/ Print Shirt- Those fabrics contains drawing vertical wise or cross
wise or contains different type of prints. If shirts are made from the above
mentioned fabrics, we called it Check/ Stripe/ Print Shirt.

Twill Shirt- Generally twill fabrics are a little heavy, diagonal lines are visible on
the fabric surface. Shirts are made from twill fabric is called twill shirt; fabric
composition is made from 100% natural cotton.

Denim Pants- Normal pants are made from denim fabrics which are called simple
denim long pants

Bermuda- The shorts which end below the knee that is extended below the knee
line. It is made like pants. This kind of pants is called Bermuda.

Uniform- When entire employees of an organization wear same shirt, pants, belt,
cap, socks & shoes are called uniform. i.e.

Vest- Waist coat

Denim- A coarse (thick) cotton fabric or cloth. (F.de Nimes in France)

Jacket- Jacket is mainly of two kinds; Padding jacket & non padding jacket.
Padding jackets having three parts- Shell parts, Padding parts & Lining parts.

Mainly 3 types of Inspection:

Pre-production Inspection

In Line Inspection/ In-production Inspection

Pre-shipment Inspection

Order Follow Up: (with buyer, supplier & factory)

Study order specification/ details

Monitoring of contract

Monitoring import procedures

Arrival of purchased materials

Factory production

Coordinating with Buying house/ Agents

Logistical and distribution arrangements

Financial Transactions

CATEGORIOUS:
Textile - An introduction
Textile is a type of material composed of natural or synthetic fibers. Types of textiles
include animal-based material such as wool or silk, plant-based material such as linen and
cotton, and synthetic material such as polyester and rayon. Textiles are often associated
with the production of clothing.
Textile Fiber
Fiber is the fundamental component required for making textile yarns and fabrics. There
are two types - natural and synthetic. Natural fibers come from animals (sheep, goats,
camelids, etc.) or vegetable-based fibers (cotton, flax, linen, and other plant fibers).
Mineral fibers (asbestos, etc) are also classified as natural fiber. Synthetic fibers are manmade and manufactured from synthetic chemicals (byproducts of the petrochemical
industries) nylon, polyester, acetates. The characteristics of fibers directly affect the
properties of the fabric it is woven into.
The history of fibers is as old as human civilization. Traces of natural fibers have been

located to ancient civilizations all over the gobe. For many thousand years, the usage of
fiber was limited by natural fibers such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and plant fibers for
different applications.
Fibers can be divided into natural fibers and man-made or chemical fibers. Flax is
considered to be the oldest and the most used natural fiber since ancient times.
A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by
bonding or by interlacing in a variety of methods including weaving, knitting, braiding,
felting, twisting, or webbing, and which is the basic structural element of textile products.
It is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be
manmade or natural.
They have length at least hundred times to that of their diameter or width.
Textile Yarns
Yarns are continuous strands of fibers that can be woven or knitted into fabrics. Natural
staple fibers usually require processes such as spinning to make yarns. Silk yarn,
extracted from silk cocoon is continuous filament yarns. Most of the synthetic yarns also
do not require the additional processes of spinning.
Yarn Spinning
Yarn spinning is the process of manufacturing yarn from different types of fibers into a
continuous length from one or more type of fibers. Spinning is the most important and the
initial step in fabric manufacturing. The major goals of spinning is to produce the quality
yarn from raw material, then remove the process faults followed by winding the short
length bobbins on Cones. There are different types of spinning, the most commonly
forms of spinning are: Ring, Rotor, Air Jet, and Friction etc.
Fabric Formation
The major methods for fabric manufacture are weaving and knitting. Weaving, or
interlacing yarns, is the most common process used to create fabrics.
Fabric Weaving
The weaving is a process of formation of fabric with interlacement of two or more sets of
yarns using a stable machine called loom. Human beings have started using the woven
fabrics since the drawn of history. If we exclude the Stone Age period, the history of
civilization is also, to some extent, the history of weaving. Though primitive civilizations
used coarser threads to make fabrics which were crude and coarse, there are references of
fine fabrics made from filament of silk in China.
Knitting
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth. Knitting consists
of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled
through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can
be passed through them. Basically there are two types of knitting which are weft knitting,
versus wrap knitting and another type is flat knitting versus circular knitting.

Knitting
Knitting is the most common method of inter-looping and is second only to weaving as a
method of manufacturing textile products. It is estimated that over 7 million tons of
knitted goods are produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique
capability of knitting to manufacture shaped and form-tting articles has been utilized for
centuries, modern technology has enabled knitted constructions in shaped and unshaped
fabric form to expand into a wide range of apparel, domes- tic and industrial end-uses.
Types of knitting
there are 2 types of knitting. One is Circular knitting (Tubular knit). Another is Flat
knitting. Circular knit is used to knit body fabrics. Flat knit is used to knit Collars &
Cuffs.
There is another type of flat knit machines which are used to make Sweaters (Tricot
garments). With these machines, the body fabrics, sleeves and necks are being made. And
they are joining together with the help of linking machines. We have to note that the
attachments of these parts are done with the main yarns. No separate sewing threads are
used for joining. Buyers use to call these garments as Knitted garments or Tricot
garments or Sweaters. Mostly acrylic and wool yarns are used. Lower counts like 2s, 4s,
6s, etc are used.
T shirts, polo shirts are also called knitted garments. As the body, sleeves, collars, cuffs
are cut separately and joined together, some buyers use to call these garments as Cut &
Sewn Garments.
There are 2 things making the knit fabric. They are Wales and Course. Wales is the
vertical yarn. Course is the horizontal yarn.
Waless lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This cannot be changed. Coarse lines can
be altered by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture.

Costing
Costing is the system of computing cost of production or of running a business, by
allocating expenditure to various stages of production or to different operations of a firm.
Costing is the deciding factor of the prices and the important thing to be followed in all
important stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. The cost calculation in
the textile industry is still almost exclusively based on the production cost data.

Dispatch
Dispatching is the process of delivering the products to the customers using various
modes of transport such as road, rail, air and sea.
READING THE WASH CARE INSTRUCTIONS-

Wash and rinse on a reduced synthetic cycle and a short spin at indicated
temperature
Wash and rinse on a reduced wool cycle and a short spin at indicated
temperature
Do not wash
Hand wash only at maximum temperature of 40 Degree C
Do not bleach
Use only non-chlorine bleach
Iron on low heat maximum 110Degree C
Iron on medium heat maximum 150Degree C
Do not iron
Articles are not suitable for dry cleaning
Delicate dry clean
Specialist dry clean in hydrocarbon solvent
Do not tumble dry
Tumble dry cool
O STAY NEW LONG LASTING, FADE RESISTANT AND RESISTS PILING

There are below some Sweater factories address

Matrix Sweaters Ltd. Gazipur.

hr@matrixsweatersbd.com

Dynesty Group, Savar

info@dynestygroupbd.com

Ananta Apparels Ltd. Gulshan-2

careers@ananta-bd.com

Li & Fung (Bangladesh) Ltd.

career@lifung.com.bd

Centrale DAchats Zannier, Banani

hr@cazasiadk.com

Hamid Group Corporate Office

career@hamidgroup.org

Bently Sweaters Limited, Banani

hr@bentlyswearters.com

Opex/Sinha Textile Group, Dhaka

hropex@opexgroup.com

Rose Sweaters Ltd.

Vogra, Joydevpur, Gazipur