How To Build A Strum-Stick Musical Instrument

How to Build a Strum-Stick Musical Instrument

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Guitar
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Here are the complete steps toward building a 3-stringed musical instrument,
taught and inspired by the Andy Mackie Music Foundation. the instrument has a
dulcimer's tuning, and sounds & plays beautifully. I teach a musical instrument
building class to public middle school students in the adjacent high school
wood-shop. Here, students have built dozens upon dozens of guitars, of various
shapes and flavors. I shall make best attempts at teaching you my techniques,
including what works well and areas needing improvement. Students get to bring
home their finished instruments, such a joy to see their pride in ownership!
Tags:
Musical
Instrument
Stick
Mackie
Music
Strum
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one out of a African wood called bebinca. All our wood is donated to the Andy
Mackie Music Foundation, for the purpose of teaching children to make and play
their own musical instrument.
If acquiring these kinds of wood is just not possible, heck, then try using what is
available to you, such as ash or another type of non-instrument-grade wood.
The reason I suggest ash, is that it may bend more easily in a future step.
Experimentation is most encouraged!
Here the measurements can vary. If you want to make a wider one to
accommodate more than three strings, that will work too! Our kids have made
many with varying lengths, including 12 inches longer than 30.5 inches, as well
as shorter "ukulele-sized" instruments with less of a fretboard range.
Noting the direction of grain is important, such that when it is time to cut the fret
wire grooves, the saw slices perpendicular to the grain.
Step 2: Measure the slope
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Here we're measuring the slope, where the tuner-holes will eventually be drilled.
Step 3: Make Cut either using Tablesaw or on the Bandsaw
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Here you'll see I've built a special jig which rests up against the guide on the
table saw. It angles the stick just slightly, so that it saws off the wedge that you
marked earlier. It is much safer to use a jig, and I couldn't stress how much
easier it was to take the time and build a jig.
Additionally, I had to build another piece for safety. The problem was that the
wedges were so narrow, that when I sliced them off, they would stick in the little
hole in between the blade and the cover. The remedy is to build a new cover,
and fit it to the tablesaw hole. With the blade all the way down, put in the new
piece for the cover, and rotate the handle until the blade is JUST the right height,
thereby eliminating any space between the blade and the cover.
If you don't want to go to the trouble using a table-saw and jig, I recommend
simply using the bandsaw. When making the cut, be sure to slow down when the
blade reaches the end of the wedge, so that the stick doesn't slip forward when
it slices through. Be safe, observe the 5 inch rule keeping fingers and thumbs 5
inches away from the blade. Since it is a straight cut, line up the angled line with
any parallel line markings on the bandsaw platform, before starting to cut. Don't
try to compensate for an improper angle by bending the wood, it could snap the
blade! I recommend doing a few practice cuts on a piece of scrap before doing
the real thing.
Lastly, just be sure to not go past 4.5 inches.
Step 4: Measure the Tuner Holes
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Here I'm measuring an inch from the end, to where I'll mark my first hole. I use a
tuner template, which is the base plate of a set of tuners I've sacrificed by taking
apart. It can be slightly less than an inch if you prefer, but just don't make the
hole too close to the end, because when it is time to install your tuners, some
metal might stick out. *(if that happens, that's OK, you can just file it down, or
grind it off.)
Importantly, depending on your set of tuners, make sure the holes are measured
with precision, so that they properly line up.
I use a center-punch, to mark a divot in the true center of my marked hole, so
the drill bit won't travel around when drilling. If you follow this technique, the
tuners should fit perfectly.
You should measure and mark 6 markings total, three on the side, and three on
the top, exactly centered, and lined up with each other.
Lastly, if the holes are slightly off, I've used a reamer tool before to slightly widen
the holes, such that they accommodate the tuners.
Step 5: Drill Tuner Holes
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First, drill all six holes with the smaller drill bit. Then switch to the larger drill bit,
and drill only half-way down, stop, and back up. Turn over the stick, and finish
drilling all the way through. This technique prevents the larger drill bit from
splitting the wood, which inevitably happens if you go all the way through on one
pass. Sure, you can clamp to a back-plate piece of scrap wood and drill all the
way through, but this technique is relatively easy. The smaller hole you drilled
earlier is a pilot hole, which helps you line up the larger drill bit from the other
side. I like a clean entry and exit hole, without splitting!
I've also built a jig for the stick to easily rest into on the drill press, although
clamping to the drill press platform will work quite well.
Step 6: Measure and Drill Center Hole
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9.5 inches from the other end, mark and drill a hole on the same side as your
(wider three) tuner holes. I recommend again using a pilot drill bit, and then
switching to a larger bit, drilling half-way in, flipping over, and drilling the rest of
the way through *(to prevent splitting.)
It is crucial that you make this hole absolutely centered. There should be no less
than 3/16ths of an inch wide on either side.
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If it is off centered, or if the hole is very close to the sides, there is a risk of the
wood snapping when it becomes time to spread and glue. Additionally, if the
sides are too thick, say, larger than 5/16th of an inch, there is also a risk of the
wood snapping. Go figure. Therefore, it is always possible to trim up the sides
before the step where we spread and glue, but be careful not to cut it too thinly.
Step 7: Cut out a 'step', and then Cut out the Center Piece
using the bandsaw
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Here I like to refer to this step as "cutting out the step." In this instructable, I've
only included cutting out the step for the front side only, however it can be done
to both sides as well.
The purpose of this cut is that when we eventually glue on a piece of wood for
the front plate, it is uniformly level with the fretboard. Make sure it will be level,
you can always plane off the front plate wood, or make the "step" cut, the exact
depth.
Here I've set up a metal guide, which is clamped to the band saw table platform.
This guide makes the cuts very easy and precise. I recommend holding the stick
as you would hold a billiards cue stick. Your left hand is stationery, and pushing
the stick inward, keeping it pressed up against the guide. Your right hand is
feeding the stick into the blade, just as if you are shooting pool. Make the cut go
just past the hole Straight cut in, pull it back straight out.
Step 8: Measure, and Cut out the End Piece
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The end piece should look like a trapezoid when finished. Sometimes I've made
two sections glued together to make an extra thick end piece. If you glue two
together, this can allow for the eventual sanding the corners into a curve if you
wish. After cutting the piece, temporarily masking-tape it firmly back inside the
"forks" to keep the (flimsy) forks more rigid. This will help when you eventually
shape it on the router.
Step 9: Cut Fret Grooves
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I've found that it is most useful to build a jig with the precise measurements
marked onto the guide. Then you can easily line up the end of the stick to the
markings on the guide.
Make sure you use a very thin jeweler's saw blade (with a super thin "kerf,") and
set the depth no deeper than an eighth of an inch.
Push the guide forward to make the cut on the tablesaw, and then lift up the
stick before pulling the guide back.
This will prevent against accidental cutting twice, which widens the groove.
Refer to the precise Dulcimer's tuning measurements. Again, I cannot
emphasize enough how important this step is to make sure the measurements
are as accurate and precise as possible. re-measure, and double-check all
measurements before continuing with the cuts!
Additionally, cut three more cuts just below the tuner holes. (these don't require
precise measuring, they're to prevent the steel guitar strings from cutting into the
wood.) Approximately a quarter of an inch from the tuner holes.
Sometimes mistakes are made, and if the mistake is over an eighth of an inch
off, then it is acceptable to fill in the groove with wood putty. If the mistake is
closer than an eighth of an inch, well... When it is time to hammer in the fret
wire, the groove might just split.
Alternatively, I have also measured and cut by hand, using a hand saw with a
thin kerf, and a miter box. Careful to make the depths of each cut consistently.
There is a wonderful Mountain Dulcimer Fret Measurement Calculator y'all
should know about! it is at:
http://www.mimf.com/archives/dulcimer_fretcalc.htm
ALSO: Check out:
http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator
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Step 10: Shape the neck with Router
When using the router, make sure that you have installed an appropriate
rounded-curve bit. The bit spins in a counter-clockwise direction, which means
that you should always make the cut towards the LEFT, or upstream to the
spinning direction. Please, NEVER be tempted to cut towards the right, as the
bit can catch the piece, and jerk it unexpectedly, or worse, jerk your fingers into
the bit.
I like to start my cut with the FORKS end set up against the guide, and then
angle the piece in until it is being cut by the bit, about two inches in from the
forks. Grip super-firmly to prevent the piece from jerking, and then slowly move
the piece towards the left until you've reached just before the tuner holes. Turn
over, and repeat, making the starting and ending points symmetrical.
I recommend marking the guide, indicating where the starting and finishing
points belong.
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Step 11: Spread and Glue End Piece
Spread Wood Glue with your fingers on each end of the end-piece. Now, before
you spread, make sure you clamp at the base of the forks to prevent breakage.
Slowly spread the forks apart until JUST the piece fits. Be super careful, and
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work slowly. If you hear the wood stressing too much and start to creak, back off,
and just slice a centimeter off the end piece.
These photos show a jig I use to keep everything tight and centered. If you don't
have a jig, it's just as well to make sure the end piece is well clamped or taped
tightly to allow the glue to set and hold.
Wait 12 hours.
Step 12: Trace the Back Piece
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I've used Maple for the backside, and Spruce for the front side, but you can
experiment with different woods. The Hard Wood of the maple on the back,
combined with the softer wood of the spruce on the front, produces a unique
warm sound. The spruce is less decorative, however, and if you want to use
maple for both the front and back, that will be beautiful!!
Step 13: Cut out the Back Piece
When cutting on the bandsaw, I like to cut just outside the line. Depending on
how confident you are in making a precise cut, feel free to leave plenty of room,
the excess edges can always be trimmed up or sanded later on.
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Step 14: Glue and Clamp Back Piece
Run a thin bead of glue along the edges, and wait a few minutes to allow the air
to make the glue slightly "tacky." I like to spread the glue uniformly with my
fingers. Plan on some drips, so having a wet paper towel or damp rag nearby
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helps. Don't over-glue. Clamp all the way around, using plenty of clamps, one on
each corner, and several along the sides. Careful when clamping, sometimes
the first few clamps will shift the back piece around. Make sure it is still centered!
This photo doesn't show it, but I now like to use junk scraps on the front side to
clamp to, that way the clamps won't inadvertently bend the narrow sides in.
Make sure the glue "squeezes" out when clamping, just to ensure a tight fit!
Turn upside down, so that if any glue drips, it will drip downward.
Step 15: Trim the Edges
This step is optional, you can always trim both sides when both front and back
sides are glued together. This just helps if you want to see the sides better. BE
CAREFUL to not cut through the side of course!
Step 16: Measure and
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Again, I like using Spruce wood for the softer (warmer) sound, but you can also
go for something with more grain or "finger" to make a decorative instrument!
*(plus, I'm sure it will sound great regardless!)
Step 17: Cut out the Front Piece
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Same as Before, cut outside the markings.
Step 18: Measure and Drill the Sound Hole
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I've approximated the sound hole here, although it must be absolutely centered.
Note that the hole is closer towards the neck, rather than the end. This is
because you will install a bridge (small piece of hard wood) towards the end, to
elevate the guitar steel strings. One mustn't want the bridge to be over the hole.
You can experiment with different sized sound holes. I've also used wider drill
bits. Make sure you have a scrap piece of wood underneath the front piece, to
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prevent any splitting when the drill bit pierces through the other side.
*(ensure a clean entry and exit hole!)
Step 19: Glue and Clamp Front Piece
Again, wipe up any excess glue spillage, and clamp in enough places to ensure
that the glue squeezes out, confirming a tight fit.
Let the glue set overnight.
Step 20: Trim the Edges
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You can trim the edges using either the bandsaw, or a finishing sander.
Step 21: Sand the Instrument
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Sand all edges! I recommend using a hand sander, starting with a coarser grit,
such as 80 grit. Gradually, switch to a finer grit such as 120 grit, and eventually
switch to a finer grit yet! The more elbow grease you put into it, the better /
smoother the instrument feels!
Step 22: Install the Fret Wire
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Use #764 (thinnest) fret wire for the frets just below the three tuner holes. This
just prevents the steel guitar strings to cut into the wood.
Use # 150 (thickest) fret wire for the First Fret
Use # 141 fret wire for the rest of the 12 guitar frets
Tap in the fret wire, using a softer (plastic) mallet, rather than a metal hammer.
(The fret wire can dent.)
It only requires a few firm taps. If you find yourself whacking the fret wire too
repetitively, the wire could just be "walking" its way back and forth out of the
groove.
Snip with wire snippers, vertically and not horizontally. If you snip horizontally,
sometimes the wire could just pop back out. Snip flush to the edge of your piece.
If the fret wire insists upon coming loose, simply dab a bead of super glue in the
fret groove, and then tap back in.
I recommend firmly putting a finger to hold down the wire seated into the groove,
while snipping, to prevent the wire from popping back out.
Step 23:
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The picture shows the frets being sanded with a belt sander. Now I find that I
wouldn't recommend this. Instead, use a file, and only file in the downward
stroke direction. If you file upwards, it will pop the frets out. Simply file off the
burrs, and run your fingers along the edge of the instrument. After all, you want
the "feel" to be welcoming, and not having sharp edges!
Step 24: Double Check Frets are Well-Seated.
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Sometimes the filing or the sanding of the fret wire loosens them. If need be, run
a bead of super-glue in the loose fret groove, and re-tap the wire in place.
Step 25: Drill Pilot Holes, and Install brass brad nails.
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Measure and drill a pilot hole 3/16ths of an inch in from each side, just after the
tuner hole. Tap in a brass brad nail. These are to keep the steel guitar strings
separated. Tap the nail leaving an eighth of an inch sticking out.
Step 26: Measure, and Install 3 brass nails for the strings at
the end.
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Instead of measuring the center of the end piece, and hammering in a nail,...
place a straight stick to align where the true center hole belongs, and then mark
the center of that. The reason being is that sometimes the guitars are glued
slightly off centered. One must ensure that the center hole for the guitar string to
attach must line up absolutely down the center of the guitar neck.
Then make a measurement 3/16ths from the width of the guitar neck on either
side, and make a mark.
Double check all measurements.
Drill the three pilot holes straight down with a very thin drill bit. Careful, if the
holes are close to the edge, there is a risk of the nails splitting through the end.
Just be sure that you're leaving a half of an inch space from the end, and the
drill is piercing the solid end piece, to ensure the nail to hold.
Hammer in three brass brad nails, leaving the tips sticking an eighth of an inch
up.
Step 27: Oil and Stain.
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Use your favorite Stain.

I like to use Boiled Linseed Oil.
With a cloth rag, Make sure all areas of the wood soak up the stain, making a
beautiful finish.
Step 28: Install Tuners
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Make sure the gears of the tuners point toward the body of the guitar.
Use a small phillips to screw in the tiny screws. It helps to also drill out pilot
holes.
If the tuners don't fit quite right, use a reamer tool or a circular file to round-out /
widen the holes slightly.
Step 29: Install Guitar Strings.
Refer to the 4th and 5th video, embedded in this instructable. (step 32.)
Step 30: Tune the Instrument
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Again, refer to the video.

I like to tune the upper and lower strings to the key of G, one octave apart, but
your tunings can vary.
Step 31: Play Music!
I'll include a music lesson instructable soon. Stay Tuned!

Suggested Riffs:
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"Twinkle Twinkle Little Star"

"You are my Sunshine"
"The Lion Sleeps Tonight."
Step 32: Video -- How to Build, String, and Tune your

Instrument
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Step 33: Strings
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Here are the Strings we use. The GHS Dulcimer strings come in a 4 string set.
Since we use three, you'll have an extra one left over in case a string breaks.
The thickest string (.020" diameter) is used for the low G. The middle string
(.012") tuned to D, and the upper string (also .012") tuned to the high G.
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.
tom.zappio
I Made it!
Add Images
Make Comment
1 month ago
Reply
Hi, unsure of a few things. In step 6 is the 9 1/2" to centre & what size hole?
According to the ruler, it looks like a 3/4 inch hole, which wouldn't leave 1/4"
sides after you cut out the centre if you are using 1" stock.
SirCooksalot
tom.zappio
29 days ago
Reply
hey tomzappio, the 9 1/2" is measured from the bottom of the stick...so
make a mark across the fret side at 9 1/2". Then find the EXACT center
of the width, at that 9 1/2" mark, and mark your center, making a
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crosshairs at dead center, 9 1/2" up from the bottom. Then you drill a 5/8"
hole (IF you're using 1" lumber) and you'll be left with 3/16" on either side.
Drilling that 5/8" hole at EXACT CENTER is crucial, because if the
thickness of the sides differs, the sides will not bend exactly the same, and
your body will not be symmetrical. It'll curve easier on one side than the
other, and kinda lean....ask me how I know.
29 days ago
SirCooksalot made it!
Reply
hi, and thanks to you (and Andy) for this great 'ible! I did my own take of course,
that's half the fun, but your directions were an invaluable guide. I used a piece of
oak railing, so it's flat on the fret side and has a palm-fitting curve on the backside,
it's comfy. For the face and back I used 1/8" birch that I have for cajon tapas. I
used a pullsaw for the frets, the width of the saw blade was a perfect fit for a fret.
Instead of using frets under the tuner holes, I stripped some solid core copper wire
and hammered it flat, them cut 3 little "frets" from it. I made the bridge from a
chunk of oak, passed it over the table saw for a groove about 7/8 of the way deep,
and cut a little piece of bone to slide into it. Again, my saw blade was just the right
thickness that the bone just squeezed right in, I didn't have to mess with thickness
at all. Threw on a cheap 3-on-a-side classical guitar tuner, some banjo strings
(23/17/10 I think) and tuned it to GDG. This was my first stringed instrument build,
so I'm pretty psyched with the result. I've since acquired a McNally Strumstick, and
I can honestly say its on a par soundwise,and at a fraction of the price. It's rarely
much cheaper (if at all) to build an instrument, and it can be time consuming and
require patience, but there is magic in hearing music come from a thing you've
created that is priceless. Thanks for the inspiration!
Darican
1 year ago
Reply
This might be old news due to the age of the post, but I just ran into it. Anyway,
I am psyched to do this with my son (and he wants to also...), but where can I
get the wood. Home depot and Lowe's have lumber but not the nice wood you
used. Any suggestions?
Thank you
evan808 (author)
Darican
1 year ago
Reply
Sure, well... When I was working with Andy, he insisted that the wood
be the musical instrument grade hard wood, but our local woodshop
teacher here suggested otherwise, including the use of softer wood
such as Ash. My belief is that a softer wood, or whichever you have
available to you would work just fine, especially during the bending and
glueing steps (will not snap as easily.) Please if you try a different
wood, send me a note sometime letting me know how it worked out!
Also, the type of wood may produce a different sound as well. (the
spruce on the front produces a warmer softer sound, and if switched to
the harder maple on the front, produces a tinnier sharper sound.
Lastly, to answer your question, Here locally there is a fine woods store
(Edensaw woods) , which although might not be in your local area,
surely you might find an equivalent supplier?
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Good luck,
Evan
InTheory
1 year ago
Reply
Hi, brilliant project and I love all the pictures and steps. I really breaks it down.
I do have a question thought.
Why is the bridge slanted? I can't ever recall seeing that on an instrument. I
admit most of my instrument experience is viol biased (violin, viola, cello, bass)
and none of these have a slanted bridge. Thank you in advance anyone that
knows :)
wickedglass
3 years ago
Reply
hi, thanks for this instructable, i built a gascan ukulele last weekend and my
next project is a strum stick. Your instructable clarified a lot of things. I just
wanted to point out that in the tuning video it's mentioned that the bridge is set
at 57.7 millimeters and 57.8 millimeters from the bridge. This should obviously
be centimeters, not milimeters, as 50 millimeters is about 2 inches and the
strumstick looks a lot longer than that ;)
I'm very sorry your friend passed away, but thanks to your posting this, his
legacy reaches even to Australia! Thanks again, I'm going to have a go at this
soon!
friger
3 years ago
Reply
This has got to be one of the most detailed Instructables I have ever read.
Having done an ible on this instrument myself, I have learned things from
yours that I will use on the next one I build. I do question why you chose to put
the tuners on with the pegs facing up and why you put the bridge on in what in
my mind is backwards. Personal preferences aside this is a wonderful build
and you are doing a great service to the children of your community. Bravo!
evan808 (author)
friger
3 years ago
Reply
Thank you Friger

Your comment made me realize that i had completely left out the step
for making the bridge, as well as where to measure and place the
bridge. I shall edit this, and add a step to alleviate confusion. (I wasn't
sure what you meant as backwards.)
What I do realize is that I wasn't clear enough on the tuning
measurements, That the Nut side close to the tuners, is where the first
fret groove is sliced. Thanks for pointing out things I need to clarify!
Also, I guess we had put the tuner pegs facing up as a default, without
much thought... I'll make a few with the tuners going the other way.
(sometimes when they get set on a tabletop carelessly, the instruments
will slip out of tune.)
Additionally, Your instructable taught me a few things which I'll modify
for the next one we build! Thanks for that!
Evan
gduke
43 of 48
evan808
04/16/2015 06:22 AM

Well I am sitting here holding 1 stick
from Friger instructable that is
waiting for the hardware AND 2
Mackie Music Sticks! Their
hardware is in hand and I just put
the frets in. Just some oil, tuners in,
strings on, and a bridge. Which
brings me to my post. What are the
measurements of the bridge itself?
While waiting to hear an answer I
will likely play around with different
things laying around just so I can
play it tonight!
3 years ago
Reply
I understand they are tuned to

DGD. Do you know if DAD tab's
work the same on the DGD?
Thank you
Guy
evan808 (author)
gduke
3 years ago
Reply
Hello, I'm sorry I didn't specify. It is tuned well at exactly 8 (eight)

inches from the last fret to the bridge!
DGD works of course, although I had often tuned them to GDG!
{{{}}}====<<<
gduke
evan808
3 years ago
Reply
Please, you misunderstood me. Not the measurement of the bridge

placement, but of the bridge itself. Specifically how tall is the bridge you
are using?
Mr. Mackie's family states the tuning for GDG but in the videos when
Mr. Mackie hands the stick over to another person to tune it, he tunes it
in DGD.
My first one is GDG right now but that may change. I'll string the next
one tonight and perhaps in GDG to see how the TABS work in that
tuning.
I plan to finish the Friger build in DAD like my dulcimer.
For now I guessed at a height for a bridge and it seems to work but I
feel it is on the tall side, I guess it might be players choice in the end.
Thank you
Guy
friger
evan808
3 years ago
Reply
Thanks, I guess what I ment about the bridge is you indicate in the
video that the curved or slopped face of the bridge is facing towards
the nut. I've always done this type of bridge with the verticle side facing
the nut. I my mind (which can be a scarry place sometimes) I want no
chance of the "free board" string to come in contact with anything. Also
it gives me a very precise edge to measure from when setting the
scale. The curve side can allow for a smooth transition of the string up
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onto the bridge from the tail. Make sense? Perhaps this image will help
explain my point.
lbeaudry
3 years ago
Reply
3 years ago
Reply
how long would it take to make one?
evan808 (author)
lbeaudry
Really you could make one in a weekend... The longest time spent
would be the glue drying / setting! You could speed up the process by
gluing the front and back plates on at the same time... Good luck!
BaldEagle5556
3 years ago
Reply
Amazing instructable. Very detailed. I am sorry to hear of the passing of your

friend Andy. What a legacy he has left however and the gift of music he
bestowed will certainly live on. Keep up the great instructables!!!
lmoore9
3 years ago
Reply
3 years ago
Reply
would cherry wood work?
evan808 (author)
lmoore9
Cherry wood sounds ideal! The qualities of cherry range from having
an excellent stability, (will not warp) to being resistant to decay. Choose
the side for the fretboard to have minimal or none at all pin knots or
gum pockets, because sawing a fret-groove might be very
troublesome, if cutting into a knot. Cherry wood has a striking and
favorable fine grain pattern, color, and an attractive figure. If you've got
some cherry, use it! The price however, will range depending on how
much figure or grain pattern it contains. Good luck!
lmoore9
3 years ago
Reply
Thanks Evan. I want to try to make one. I was wondering if Cherry wood would
work? Thanks .
theshcan
3 years ago
Reply
Hello mi name is Nestor, from Argentina.im geting started about building a

strumstick for my son Piero. i would like to know wich strings from the guitar
can I use in the strumstick. thanks, this is a great instrument.
theshcan
theshcan
3 years ago
Reply
Thanx evan,,
45 of 48
04/16/2015 06:22 AM

evan808 (author)
theshcan
3 years ago
Reply
Thanks Nestor,
I just updated this post. The last step shows a picture of
which strings to use. They are: GHS strings, for Dulcimer,
Banjo, Tenor Banjo, or Mandolin. They come in a 4 string
set. The thickest string measures: .020 inches diameter
*(tuned to low G.) the next two strings measure: .012
inches diameter, and are tuned to D, and high G.
Sincerely, Evan
evan808 (author)
3 years ago
Reply
Dear Friends,
This last saturday, November 5th, Andy Mackie passed away. He was 72
years old. To those of us who all loved Andy, he will be very much missed. His
legacy continues to flourish, bringing music to children.
Sincerely, Evan.
Here is the article in the peninsula daily newspaper:
http://www.peninsuladailynews.com/article/20111106/NEWS/311069987
corsi
3 years ago
Reply
where did you get your fret wire?

also pic says #784 wire when the discription says #764. just saying
evan808 (author)
corsi
3 years ago
Reply
The supplies, hardware, including tuners & fret wire came from the
Stewart McDonald Catalogue. (http://www.stewmac.com/)
specifically for fret wire: http://www.stewmac.com
/shop/Fretting_supplies/Stewart-MacDonald_Fretwire.html
764 is the correct size (for just the three below tuner holes) thanks for
pointing out the error. The size on these probably don't matter as much,
they can also be 141 size. The metal wire just prevents the strings from
carving into the wood. Just make sure the NUT (first fret) is thicker size
to ride higher above the rest of the fretboard wire.
corsi
evan808
3 years ago
Reply
3 years ago
Reply
thank ooo
CementTruck
This is great! I just built a CBG and I have been wanting to build a Martin
Backpacker for a while this 'ible will help me immensely.
FYI: Andy Mackie has visited my son's school a couple of times, and I have
him myself. Very down to earth guy. He's one of my son's heroes and even
asked me to take a picture of Andy and him together.
46 of 48
04/16/2015 06:22 AM

evan808 (author)
CementTruck
3 years ago
Reply
Thanks CementTruck,
Andy is an inspiration to us all! I had the great privilege of
working with Andy all during the 1st year at Chimacum.
*(this is now the Third year of the program.)
As of this writing, he recently suffered from yet another
heart attack, and is presently in the care of a hospital in
Michigan. Please check his facebook page for updates. We
are all thinking about him!
CementTruck
evan808
3 years ago
Reply
3 years ago
Reply
My son and Andy at a summer camp in Michigan.
CementTruck
evan808
Can you tell me where in Michigan, and which hospital? I'm sure my
son would want to know. You cam PM me if you wish.
gmjhowe
3 years ago
Reply
Excellent work. The best bit was when I suddenly realised how you got the
triangular body shape.
evan808 (author)
gmjhowe
3 years ago
Reply
Thanks gmjhowe! Although the triangular shape technique is

somewhat awkward, *(they break if spread too widely)* I'd like to
improve upon this by getting / making a steamer to be able to bend and
curve the wood for some rounded shapes!
Another technique I use, is to double or triple the thickness of the end
piece. Then I just sand the corners until they're round on the belt
sander.
We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.
47 of 48
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