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THE BRAND
BERNARD
ARNAULT
LVMH is betting big on the
developing world.
Will Dior and Vuitton play in
Mongolia and Vietnam?
BY SUSAN ADAMS AND HANNAH ELLIOTT
THE ACTION
THE OUTCOME
62 I FORBES
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NOVEMBER 22,2010
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West, points out Allegra Perry, who covers luxury goods for
Nomura in London. "So [LVMH] keeps spending in emerging
markets, which are on the forefront of growth."
But they're also risk'y territory. Luxury goods follow
cycles, and tbe industiy has been in an upswing, despite the
worldwide blues. Tbat's partly because tbe economies of
developing countriesMongolia, Lebanon, Poland and
Vietnam among tbemhave been on fire. LVMH bas been a
pioneer in such markets, "starting witb tbe millionaires and
going down and down and down," says Luca Solea, a retail
analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein in Zurich. Arnault has
enjoyed the fruits of first-mover advantage, planting his
brands in the best retail locations at relatively low costs.
Scalding economies cool. As its GDP galloped along at 9%
or 10%, the People's Bank of China recently raised interest
rates to calm inflationr)' fears; a jolting pullback in consumer spending could hurt LVMH. "If China bas a cold,"
opines Solea, "luxury goods get pneumonia."
Arnault is well prepared. He has survived recessions and
the consequences of terrorist attacks and SARS scares. He is
battle-hardened from many corporate fights. He has put in
place a creative management group tbat tbinks long term.
Capturing developing countries is just one piece of
LVMH's strategy. Arnault sees unexploited possibilities in
richer countries, too. That insigbt is driving new store openings or expansions this year in Paris, London and Dusseldorf,
in Santa Monica and New York. "They look at pockets of
wealth," says Antoine Belge, wbo covers LVMH for HSBC in
Paris. Tbe company is also keeping its eye on tbe U.S. immigrant population. Beige says, because "people of Hispanic and
Cbinese origin spend more on luxury' goods." So, apparently,
does the population at large. During the worst of tbe downtum last year, he adds, "some American women decided they
would spend less on food or travel and buy a Louis Vuitton
handbag." Proof: Wbile sales slipped 0.8% from 2008 to 2009,
to $23.5 billion, and profits dropped 7.6% to $2.7 billion, net
profits and revenue in the first half of 2010 have snapped back
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NOVEMBER 22.2010
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ular Lady Dior handbag and $21,000 for a Hublot watch. All
divisions have performed well since January, especially the
fashion and leather group, where sales popped 20%, and
watches and jewelry 29%.
For Arnault these are not just products with plump profit
margins (50% for Dom Prignon, 40% for Vuitton). They are
living aitifacts of a great nation. "I see myself as an ambassador of French heritage and French culture," he proclaims.
"What we create is emblematic. It's linked to Versailles, to
Mai-ie Antoinette." And beyond. Among his massive collections are a hat worn by Napoleon and a 1951 fashion sketch
by Christian Dior. At the same time Arnault infuses many of
his brands with a cutting-edge hipness.
He transformed Louis Vuitton, known as a sturdy, if hopelessly staid, tninkmaker. When Arnaultfinallytook charge of
LVMH in 1990, after an acrimonious, three-year-long struggle, he brought in American fashion designer Marc Jacobs,
who introduced a ready-to-wear Louis Vuitton fashion collection and collaborated with high-profile contemporary
artists like Takashi Murakami. The Japanese artist redid the
museum complex will also have an auditorium and restaurant and will serve as a monument to Arnault's role as global
arbiter of taste, while telegraphing his corporate brands'
commitment to art and high culture.
How to keep all this going, controlling LVMH's image and
quality along with hundreds of products moving through the
vast circulatory system of suppliers, manufacturers, retailers
and marketers, keeping 76,000 employees focused on and
proud of their work? Force of characterthere is a superabundance of thatdrives a lot of it. But that's clearly not
enough. "One key element of management of a group like this
is decentralization," says Arnault dryly. "You need the right
team of inspired managers."
For Arnault that means a small group of a half-dozen
trusted generals, most of whom head up his flagship brands,
augmented by two of his children. They include Yves Carcelle, chief of Louis Vuitton; Toledano, who leads Dior; Pierre
God, LVMH's vice chairman; Philippe Pascal, in charge of
watches and jewelry; Christophe Navarre, who ains wines
and spirits; and Nicolas Bazire, chief of development and
NOVEMBER 22.2010
FORBES
Hennessy
C M A r/; t' A (
COGNAC
Founded: 1846
Clothing, Shoes, Bags
Founded: 1743
Champagne
FASHION / LEATHER
WINE/SPIRITS
Loewe
Founded: 1846
Wenjun
Founded: 1765
Cognac
PERFUMES / COSMETICS
1573
WINE
Louis Viiitton
1854
Chateau d'Yquem
Berluti
1895
SHOES
Ruinart
1593
1925
MotetChandon
1729
1942
SHOES
Hennessy
1743
1945
Vueve Clicquot
1765
1947
Ardbeg
1947
1952
Krug
1970
Mender
1984
Montaudon
1984
Glenmorangie
1984
DomPrignon
1991
SHOES
Domaine Chandon
WINE
2009
FASHION WEBSITE
Cape Mentelle
Newton Vineyards
1780
Cloudy Bay
1858
1860
1865
WATCHES
Chopin
1891
1893
Numanthia Termes
1975
VODKA
1980
WATCHES
Parfums Kenzo
Fresh
1960
RUM
1976
Sacks
2000
Emilio P u c d Parfums
200s
SELECTIVE RETAILING
Le Bon March
1852
DEPARTMENT STORE
1976
La Samaritaine
1870
DEPARTMENT STORE
1977
Franck et Fils
1897
DEPARTMENT STORE
1985
DFS
1960
DUTY-FREE SHOPS
1993
Miami Cruiseline
1963
CRUISE SERVICES
1996
Sephora
1969
COSMETICS
1998
1999
2003
WINE
10 Cane
i988
1991
Parfums Loewe
1936
WINE
WATCHES
i985
FRAGRANCE
VODKA
1936
JEWELRY
Hublot
Fendi Perfumes
VODKA
Belvedere
i984
FRAGRANCE
WINE
WATCHES
1976
SKIN CARE
WINE
WATCHES, JEWELRY
Dior Watches
1843
WINE
WATCHES/JEWELRY
Fred
CHAMPAGNE
Stefanobi
Zenith
Benefit Cosmetics
FRAGRANCE
WHISKEY
Thomas Pink
TAG Heuer
1832
CHAMPAGNE
Marc Jacobs
1957
FRAGRANCE
CHAMPAGNE
Donna Karan
Chaumet
1815
CHAMPAGNE
Kenzo
Parfums Givenchy
COSMETICS
WINE
Givenchy
Nowness
1772
WHISKEY
Dior
1947
COSMETICS
CHAMPAGNE
Emilio Pucd
COGNAC
Cline
I9i6
FRAGRANCE
CHAMPAGNE
Rossimoda
AcquaDi Parma
FRAGRANCE
CHAMPAGNE
Fendi
1828
WINE
Guerlain
OTHER BUSINESS
Royal Van Lent
SUPERYACHTS
Les Echos
i849
1908
NEWSPAPER
2005
1952
MAGAZINE
Investir
1974
MAGAZINE
Radio Classique
i983
RADIO
eLUXURY
70 I FORBES
NOVEMBER 22,2010
WEBSITE
2000
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The Ultimate
Brand Extension
In 2002 Bernard Arnault and longtime adviser JeanPaul Claverie traveled to Bilbao, Spain to visit the
Guggenheim Museum, designed by Frank Gehry and
completed in 1997. As soon as they saw the building's
swooping waves of glittering steel, the two agreed:
They had found the architect for Arnault's dream
project, a bold new modern art museum in the
middle of Paris that would showcase both LVMH's
corporate collection of modern art and Arnault's
extensive personal art trove. Both include 20th-century classics by the likes of Picasso, Yves Klein, Henry
Moore and Andy Warhol, and contemporary creations
by living artists like American sculptor Frank Serra,
pop artist Jeff Koons, German photographer Andreas
Gursky and French film and installation artist Pierre
Huyghe.
A particular thrust of the museum, according to
Claverie: to demonstrate how the present evolves
from the past. An example might be an exhibit of
British artists Francis Bacon and Damien Hirst, who
says he has been heavily influenced by the late
Bacon's austere, emotionally raw canvases.
Right now the building site, next to a children's
park in the Bois de Boulogne, looks like a jumble of
rebar and cement, with a lone white glass and steel
panel that will eventually make up the Gehry design's
cloudlike exterior. The museum, called the Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation, is set to open in late
2012 and will be reachable by the Paris Metro.
house Dior, and Arnault quickly stripped away the other businesses. Dior had earlier sold its perfijme brand to Louis Vuitton Mot-Hennessy (the result of a 1987 merger). Arnault
coveted the label, so he used the $400 million from selling off
Boussac's assets and, backed by Lazard, took advantage of
dissent within the Louis Vuitton Mot-Hennessy ranks, siding with Vuitton Chief Henri Racamier to oust Mot-Hen-
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NOVEMBER 22.2010
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