A Trip to Canada West and Niagara, In the Summer of Eighteen Hundred

and Sixty Five

by Nathaniel Booth
Original journal held by the Special Collections Research Center, Syracuse University Libraries
Transcribed April, 2016 by Lisa M. Bruck
A very old friend of mine a merchant doing business in New York City having near
relatives residing in the western part of Canada whom he almost annually visits extended an
invitation to my wife and self to join him and his daughter in a pleasure excursion this summer,
which we joyfully accepted
According to arrangement we met our friends on a lovely July morning (the 11th) on the
Hudson River cars at Rhinebeck and as seats had been secured for us, our party was as compact,
and comfortable as was possible
A journey of a few hundred miles by rail admits of very little enjoyment in itself,
beautiful scenery cannot be appreciated through clouds of dust and smoke while passing at a rate
of forty miles an hour its monotony was broken however by the gentlemen going occasionally
to smoke a cigar talk on politics or the like, which afforded the ladies an opportunity to gossip,
criticize other ladies bonnets and dresses, and otherwise amuse themselves.
I had left home in an angry humour our currency was reported to be in very bad order
on the other side of the line (viz 54', 40") Gold was worth about 160, and I had made
arrangements (50 I supposed) for the exchange of a sufficient quantity of green backs to meet
our expenses, when at the last moment in fact just as our ferry boat was ringing her last bell the
president of the _______ bank disapointed me most uncourteously, so we had to leave home
depending on our National bank bills, and shinplasters only
This ill natured act had the effect of closing our account with the bank, which had been of
over ten years duration.
But my anger and disapointment proved to be unnecessary, as we found no difficulty
whatever in using them along the route, or any where, by paying the customary discount.
We reached Rochester about 10 pm; too late to obtain more than a moonlight walk
through this handsome, enterprising city; and early on Thursday July 12 we all left our rooms to
visit Genesee Falls, celebrated for their beauty, their perpendicular descent of about two hundred
feet, and also for being the scene of Sam Patchs Last Leap.
Sam Patch was a noted swimmer and diver, he had won celebrity by jumping from the
yard arms of vessels in New York and other harbors, three from Passaic Falls, Paterson N.J. and
finaly has obtained, and conferred immortality here by jumping from the central projecting rock
into eternity.
After an early breakfast, and a very hearty one (much to our regret afterwards) we left the
city proper for the coast and prepared for our sail accross Lake Ontario. The morning was cool,
somewhat cloudy, but pleasant, except the wind which forewarned us of a rough passage across

its course; Many of our party expressed a wish to wait until the next day, and pass the time in the
pleasant city of Rochester but our imperative leader would admit of no delay, so in complyance
with his wishes we embarked about 8.30 am on board the steamer, the wind now blowing great
guns directly down the lake.
Our steamer, a good staunch iron built boat, rejoiced in the clasical name, Corinthian
an order of architecture however, more to be admired on land than water, more particularly on
the waters of Lake Ontario, where Tuscan-Doric-Ionic, as well as Corinthian, are very apt to
become Composite during a gale lengthwise of this wonderful inland sea.
This sea was rough when we started from the southern shores yet not unpleasantly so
for awhile but on obtaining a distance of some ten miles from land the departed shore no long
visable except the rapidly receding promontory we had left when the one hundred and twenty
miles long, and sixty miles wide of this beautiful lake gave northerly east, by west, by east, gales
their full play when its blue waters began to jump, and climb, to play leap frog and then to
sink, fall, as if the bottom of the pond had fallen out, then again for us to see, and hear, and feel
them foaming upwards as if to invade the heavens, dashing their spray over the hurricane decks
of our boat then the sensation was not so pleasant.
We were laboring in the trough of the sea that is, we were crossing the line of the
storm when the waves struck us sideways, rocking our boat as an exasperated nurse would rock
the cradle of a wide-awake baby, while knowing the her favourite cousin was waiting not her
pleasure but her leasure
Rockd in the Cradle of the Deep is a very pretty sentiment in print or from the
pretty lips of a sweet singer but is altogether different on Lake Ontario in a gale you know, or
you would know if you happened to be a passenger on board this Corinthian on this day
Our party had taken possession of the after hurricane deck, and were in fact the sole
occupants We laughed at the tall rolling waves; watching their coming, and their going the
foam flying over our heads as we dashed among them without fear, and even cheered, when
some more ambitious swells than usual, tried their strength against that of our gallant craft and
triumphantly placed his white cap upon the pinacle of our pilot house.
And we enjoyed all this, considering it got up for our especial amusement for awhile,
although we were obliged to cling to the stancions of the decks for support we dared the
dashing billows to dance with us and they accepted the invitation but oh! what a change
came oer the spirit of our dream It was when the laugh was loudest when the merryment
greatest that we observed a direful change pass over the countenance of our friend from New
York the broad smile vanished a look of ineffable disgust, horror and dismay succeeded and
he left us he stood not upon the order of his going, but went at once and we saw him no more
that day.
Scarsely had the senior of our happy party disappeared when his daughter, the youngest
of our circle began to look sad, a spasm passed over her fair face and she began to gasp a desire
to go home Oh! Oh! Please to take me ashore sho shor Oh!! she entreated and then
resigned herself to her fate

The madam however was self relient and contented, she appeared to rise superior to the
ills of ordinary life, and defy them Physiologists have declared that the phenomena of fainting,
hysteria, sea-sickness, and the like are in a great measure subservient to the will and
determination of the person afflicted.
Perhaps they are right, but this rule does not apply to a cross-cut sea on the lake Ontario
the effect upon ordinary mortals is not alone a sea but a sea-saw sickness just as irresistible as
the winds and waves which produce it,
So the madam thought she would go to the saloon just to see how our young friend was
getting along thats all she did not return to the after deck during that trip, but with my
assistance the two ladies tumbled into the lower berths of adjoining state rooms, where leaving
them to comfort each other I returned to the deck to enjoy myself
How I succeeded is not for me to tell; I was for a few hours, in that peculiar state of mind
when at first death in all its terrors presented itself, and afterwards would have been welcomed as
a relief from the dreadful prostration experienced in sea sickness,
But in a short time the reaction took place, the miserable nausia had passed, and I was not
only able to give aid to my companions in misfortune, but to amuse and appreciate the sublime
grandeur of a storm at sea.
When our boat arrived at Coburn I instituted a search for the remains of our elder party,
and found them extended in a state of helpless, and hopeless, misery on the floor of the lower
cabin, mixed up with hats, coats, bonnets, hoops, skirts and other wearing utensils, masculine,
feminine and neuter, belonging to other passengers, in similar distress, but for awhile identity
was nearly impossible.
We at last landed at Port Hope in safety, and only two to three hours beyond the regular
time, after a terrible voyage, crossing all the way across the line of the gale Even the captain
crew, and chamber maids who make the trip daily, were so ill as to be nearly helpless.
The sails were blown to ribbons The sea broke over the lower decks every instant
barrels and boxes of freight got loose and dashed about, some going overboard, but the noble
boat labored on her way dispite the elements and finally brought safely to hand her passengers
and crew.
God Save the Queen
For here we are in her dominions, and under the protection of her majesty.
We were met at the landing by one of her representatives, a certain Mr. Lander the
custom house official of the port who in a very polite and most gentle maner asked for the keys
of our trunks, which we immediately placed in his hands.
The trunks were opened according to law, but before a single article was touched Mr.
Lander said in substance to us Ladies and gentlemen duty obliges me to examine your effects
to open your trunks, by force if necessary all of which you know but do you pledge me your
honor that they contain only ordinary clothing? nothing liable to duty?
Giving him this assurance the officer returned our keys without disturbing a single article
of clothing, or any further investigation and with a bow left us.

We were soon comfortably provided for at Hastings hotel, Port Hope, but had a sea sick
night the rolling motion of the steamboat seemed to have been transferred to the house, the
beds became berths, and in our half awake dreams we were yet tossing upon Lake Ontario and
subjected to all its disagreeable consequences.
The morning found us, or all that was left of us, not only well but ravenously hungry, so
we ordered and dispatched a breakfast and a dinner at the same meal and 10 oclock left by RR
for Peterborough where relatives of our friends reside.
This Rail road is a single track, exceedingly rough, having steep grades, and very high
and shakey tressle work It has steep rocky embankments frail bridges crossing deep ravines,
with abrupt curves along suspicious sidings The road is used principally in the lumber trade but
is accommodating to all manner of business and particularly to passengers as the trains are
stopped anywhere on signal, taking on, or letting off travelers at their own pleasure which is of
great advantage to sportsmen who can select the hunting grounds of the day and be landed at the
spot chosen.
Port Hope is a half Rule Brittania and half Hail Columbia sort of a town, where John
Bull and brother Jonathan fraternize in the items of trade, commerce, currency and domestic life,
as is proper and neighborly in this great land of (not toleration) but absolute freedom, to
worship God according to the dictates of our own conscience.
Still this lovely 13th day of July 1865 we have seen at Coburn see at Port Hope and
expect to see at Peterborough all the colours all the emblems of the Irish Orange party who
celebrated their anniversary on yesterday
The Engines the cars hotels public buildings, even including the post office, and
telegraphic stations, are still decorated or desecrated with Orange coloured emblems in the
form of flags flowers mottoes ribbons and all the paraphanalia of that party
A lady of the town who made up a button-hole boquet or two, for us, felt obliged to make
an apology for the want of variety, because, she said, yesterday being our great celebration,
we were obliged to gather every flower of orange colour for the arches, and the procession
Yesterday was the Twelfth of July you will please remember!!!
Why should we remember that yesterday was the twelfth of July? Of what importance to
us, is the fact that William of Orange married Mary of England, and with their united forces
obtained a victory over the Irish people, in this memorable day?
We have no interest in this event, and have a right to object to the importation of these
wretched party issues in this free Country.
That these rational local personal hatred exist in Ireland is patent to every intelligent
man, woman, or child upon the face of the earth wherever an Irishman Orange or Green can
be found That this feud is perpetuated entailed nourished and fed from generation to
generation, and that they constantly lead to quarrels bloodshed and ruin we have abundant
evidence, and if the parties find pleasure and happiness in riot, confusion and broken heads I for
one see no just reason or cause for interference, or why this aggressive race of people should not
thus enjoy themselves

That is in their own country upon their own sod But why bring their insane hatred,
their bigotry, intolerance and national prejudices here What care we in this country for the
Orange or the Green?!
What interest have we in the 12th July or the 17th March that our peace should be
disturbed by the religious discords, faction fights and bitter hatred of this combative and most
unhappy people
My observations while in Canada stimulated by this Orange celebration and its effects
on both classes of Irish exhibits this That Canada being a British colony, under British rule, and
up to within ten years owned by foreign landlords under the same barbarous feudal system as
exists now in Ireland, it became the policy of government and the land owners to encourage
immigration, and every inducement was held out to induce families to leave Ireland, settle in
Canada
All this was well enough but the government found it a convenient country also, to
pension off its favorites or disperse a number of its impoverished gentry.
It was a cheap way of providing for them and securing their allegiance to Church and
State, rendering them powerful at the same time by bestowing every place of honor or
endowment where it was possible upon this favored class.
All government patronage is theirs Their Governor General heads of departments,
their Judges, clerks of courts Advocates post masters Their Bishops, pastors &c &c in
Canada are foreign born generally, and in the west mostly Irish, or of direct Irish origin, except in
the French settlements.
Therefore this privileged society assumed grand aristocratic airs, affect to dispise those in
trade, or engaged in mechanical pursuits If poor in themselves they would rather starve on a
shilling of government patronage pr day than earn a dollar viz manual labor Work except in
office would be derogatory to their inherited pride, as well as to reflect discredit upon their
family or connections.
Hence it is that when starved out of their native isle, they are transplanted to various
British colonies, Canada among the rest, where they form close connections among themselves,
live on the labor and thrift of their neighbors, sing God Save the Queen flaunt their Orange
colours in the faces of the poorest Irish who are mostly Catholic, and affect to dispise the
yankees by whose industry, and enterprise they are enabled to live and prosper in idleness.
It naturally follows then, that when the other party are sufficiently strong they retaliate,
and are equally overbearing, and tyrannical. If the numbers are nearly equal they fight, and
broken heads fire and destruction of property, and even loss of life are of annual occurrence on
the days of St Patrick and Prince William
This is why Canada has ever been in the background of Prosperity, this is why new
immigrants as well as many natives leave for the States as soon a they can beg, borrow, or
raise the means to do so
Of the young men native to the province not one in ten will remain there, unless the
family influence is sufficient to secure an office, this is the great ambition none too small for
acceptance and failing this resource the youth if ambitious leaves for the States, but is far more

liable to fall into idle indolent habits. He with a party of similar spirits take to the woods and
lakes, live a vagrant, vagabond gentlemanly life under the name of Sportsman calling
frequently upon their friends, and Micauber like waiting always for something to turn up
The Prince of Wales and his party acted right, and has been generally commended for
refusing to land in Toronto on the occasion of his late visit, unless party emblems of every
description were laid aside, but as the Orange lodges persisted to the last to receive him with
their peculiar badges mottoes colours - &c and march him through the city to the music of
Battle of the Boyne Croppies lie down & similar sectional airs, he very properly refused to
visit the city at all so Toronto had not the honor of a sight of their future King
Apart from this the residents of Canada West enjoying these advantages, and all that
position education landed proprietorship of immense forests, water power, and farms, whose
value is always left for others (particularly Yankees) to develop by the payment of certain
royalties to the the owners thereof are hospitable, cheerful, and most excellent friends and
companions
To this class we were accredited; and in no place North, or South, have we ever met with
kinder treatment, more hearty welcome, or more profuse hospitality; therefore my remarks can
have no personal tendency or bias but founded upon the actual state of the political social,
and business relatings of the mixed communities we met with, during our two weeks experience
among them
We arrived at Peterborough a somewhat pretentious, but very enterprising County town
of some local importance, where we expected to meet our friends, friend; who resided there
But were doomed to disappointment.
The friend of our friend, with his wife had left the day before, in expectation of meeting
in Rochester or within the State upon the line of Northern travel, and we were to return with
them to the hospitalities of their home.
For all this care and attention, we had passed each other somewhere and arrived at
Peterborough one day too late, therefore in place of a cordial welcome we found a deserted
house; And yet not quite deserted either, for the house was left in charge of the servants with
strict orders to take care of us (if we came) and to make us as comfortable as possible. So we
took possession with a coolness that was quite refreshing in July much to the servants disgust
however who were thus disappointed of their rest and vacation
Having thus made ourselves perfectly at home, it was only necessary to elect from our
force a temporary housekeeper, and to supply the commissary department, which being amicably
effected we proceeded to enjoy ourselves
Here it may not be amiss to compare the market prices of provision with that of the
States The Steward of the Household reported Saddle of Lamb 5c U States 30c
Butter
15c 56c
vegetables fruit eggs wines &c in proportion, viz about one fourth to one fifth the cost.
The remainder of the day we passed in making calls on friends of the family and in the
evening left by carriage for Halls-bridge the objective point of our journey and some eighteen
miles distant from Peterborough.

Our party had now increased to seven A Mrs. Hart, (or Heart) a widow, accompanied by
her son, were upon their winding way to the very same, identical, family, on whom we
intended to make a Country Call of a week or two
The meeting at the Stables to engage carriages for Halls Bridge brought about this
introduction from which it appeared that we had traveled to Rochester in the same car Put up
at the same Hotel in Rochester had visited the same falls at the same time had taken the same
Corinthian Steamer enjoyed the same peculiarities of the lake as before described on deck, and
below; and might have continued our journey in the same manner had not the livery stable
meeting brought about our explanation, which made us, not only acquaintances, but friends,
instanter.
For the first twelve miles out of the city of Peterborough in the direction of Halls
Bridge the highway was broad, smooth, free from stones, or ruts, and in every respect a far
better Country road than any I have travelled over in any of the States as the Government
has charge of, and control of the regular Post roads,
But when we left the graded public avenue and turning abruptly to the left on a wagon
track, through a primitive forest; - Why! We simply indulged in the repetition, in an Outlandish style, of the luxuries we had experienced upon Lake Ontario
Our last section was for a distance of about six miles through a dense forest,
The track (not road) passed over, and under, huge rocks, boulders, and stones, through
shakey swamps, which we crossed by the roughest, and most uncompromising of Corduroy
roads possible Even in North or South Carolina where they are native and to the manor born,
their jolting and bouncing propensities, could not exceed those I have met with in Canada West.
Yet indeed the construction of a road at all or of any kind, under the adverse
circumstances surrounding it is a proof of enterprise, skill, and engenuity on the part of the
settlers in these dense pine woods.
Over this primitive highway we pitched, tossed, bounced and jumped until about nine
oclock, where by the aid of the long twilight of a Northern Summer evening we discovered the
end of our journey in the hospitable roof of our aged and venerable friends, who came forward to
meet us, and whose surprise and dismay could only be equaled at first, by an invasion of a band
of Comanches.
The excellent gentleman did expect his wife home under the care of one of his sons but
he did not expect them to meet a regiment of friends in Peterborough, and escort them
accompanied by a baggage train of trunks, boxes, and bundles, so this unadvised descent upon
him was sufficient to disturb his, or any ones serenity.
Nevertheless when he did discover who we were he exhibited great delight and a more
hearty, genuine welcome.
Their connecting streams hundreds of thousands of pine saw logs are rafted to the mills
below every spring, or at every flood, from the boundless forests of this country, where they are
reduced to a merchantable form, and sent by boats or rail to the best market.
The Saw Mill at Halls Bridge is run by a Yankee of course, who pays a liberal rent
for the power royalty for the timber &c to the proprietor thereof He cannot buy it at any price

 but obtains the privileges above named on reasonable terms, and sends every foot of the
manufactured article to the State to be sold.
His name is Shaw but there is no Oh! Shaw! about him he is an enterprising
gentleman, and understands his business The annual produce of this mill is 55000 feet of pine
boards every 24 hours during the season of about eight months, or say allowing for low water in
Summer or a short season, some 6.000.000 feet every year, not to speak of the Shingle mill
which uses up all the waste or slabs.
The Lakes referred to are the most romantic, beautiful, that is possible to imagine They
drain each other frequently without rapids, but whenever there is fall enough the narrow passage
is damd for milling purposes, and where practicable they are navigated by small steamboats
from place to place and engaged in towing barges, laden always with pine lumber.
These lovely little lakes, bordered as they are by enormous pine trees, two to three
hundred feet high or more, rejoice in all kinds of names, Ours I known as the Little Buck Horn
and is drained by Little Horn rapids which are navigable downwards by Indian canoes, into
Love Sick Lake and Love Sick-Bay. Connected with our like is Mud-Turtle Lake Sandy
Lake the Big buck Horn Lake Deer Bay Salmon Trout Lake Pigeon Lake and many
others upon which during high water vessels may travel thirty to forty miles in length and two
to three miles across The waters are singularly pure and cool and abound with fish of many
varieties
This fact reminds me that we are not here on business we have had enough of that lately
at home It is our vacation, so we seek pleasure not statistics and find it too, in the excellent
sport these lakes afford among the finny tribe Chief among these are the Mascanonge
generally called Musalunge or abbreviated to Lunges by the natives It is a noble game fish
of the Pike or Pickerel family usually weighing from six to ten pounds and frequently fifteen
pounds or more. The next in size and excellence is the Black bass weighing from one to about
four lbs, and in such quantities that we never failed to catch as many as we desired The first
named seizes voraciously any live bait or a good imitation of, but is usually caught by trolling in
a canoe by a red and silver arrangement known to sportsmen as a Spoon hook
Of this sport we had all that could be wished for, if any objection existed it was from the
fish being caught too easily.
The ladies had their share of enjoyment in sailing on the beautiful lakes before
mentioned, wandering or riding through the woods, watching their male friends catch Lunges
or visiting the neighbors, for we had neighbors even in this isolated region of a strange (to us)
character but none the less interesting for the remnant of a tribe of Indians still linger in the
very rear of the lakes and but a short distance from Halls Bridge
The British government have their units protection and has built for them a very pretty
little village known as Indian Village The houses are large enough, and comfortable each
has its garden and door yard well fenced. A handsome little church with its spire and bell
occupies the centre of the place, and adds greatly to the general appearance.
But the inhabitants will do nothing for themselves, they are an indolent, ignorant,
worthless people, with all the advantages named the Chapel is seldom used, the gardens rarely

planted, the houses are neglected and unclean, or more woe-begone, wretched God forsaken
place or people cannot be found any where in the country, where the means of comfort are not
only easy to be obtained, but actually furnished without cost.
There is no more use in trying to civilize an Indian than in training an Eagle or a wild-cat.
He is incapable of it He is a born savage, as native to the woods and lakes as a Deer, or Lunge,
by force you many control him, but tame him or make him useful in any industrial pursuits
never To force civilization upon these people, is simply to kill them by a slow, perhaps, but
very sure process.
The Chief of this tribe, is an old man named Kishagoe, as full of wild life as any boy in
this miserable community.
I saw him one day Shoot as they call it here Love Sick rapids in his Birch bark
canoe, standing upright and guiding the frail vessel, with unerring skill among the rocks of the
swift eddying current, the boat so small and light that on his return he lifted it from the water
with ease and carried it on his shoulder to the smooth lake above
Even the squaws do not hesitate to perform this feat unless they happen to have their
papposses with them.
The number of the tribe now living here is about seventy, and as about seventy, and as
about seven births to ten deaths is the present average of their domestic condition, they will very
soon disappear forever. In manners they are extremely reticent, they seldom speak except to
each other. Strangers they are very shy of, and will never voluntarily address them, even
declining to speak when they are spoken to if possible although they understand both English
and French as it is spoken in these provinces.
Their means of subsistence beyond that furnished by the government is on gathering wild
rice, berries, cultivating a little corn by the women, and hunting, fishing, and trapping by the men
and boys. Their main dependence however is the charity of the white settlers about them.
During the proper season the poor squaws visit the houses of their more provident
neighbors, with baskets of berries, game, or fish, these they place before the mistress of the
house without a word, take anything you choose to give them in exchange without change of
expression, or word of comments, whether in food, raiment or ornament.
For money they have no regard whatever, or any apparent knowledge of its value, and
generally shake a negative with their heads when it is offered, thus silently refusing it. They
exhibit no annoyance if you refuse their offerings, nor any pleasure if you accept them, unless
perhaps their constitutional apathy may disappear for a single instant, if they receive for their
wares some article of dress.
We visited their settlement and went freely into their houses the men were all absent,
we found the women and girls engaged in weaving baskets, or in ornamental Indian work. All
manner of apparel even including hoop skirts hung upon the walls, all of which they had
received in exchange for their industry Not one of them spoke to us during our visit but one
the squaws rose from her seat and offered a lady of our party some berries, an act of courtesy
seldom extended to strangers, which we regarded as equivalent to a welcome, why one only of

our party was thus favored remains a profound mystery. Poor Lo will soon disappear and be
seen no more forever
Having spent over a week of delight among these lakes, woods, rapids, streams, and the
wild sports of an almost primitive wilderness, made forever memorable by the kind, even lavish
hospitality of our venerable hose and his estimable wife, we reluctantly bade them a final
farewell and left Hall bridge on the evening of the 23 July, but not again by the way of the
woods.
The captain of the Steamer Victoria was considerate and kind enough to off us passage
on his Skillipot (of which we gladly availed ourselves) to the city of Bobcaygeon at the foot
of Sturgeon Lake from which port we were transported by carriages over an excellent road to
our former head quarters in Peterborough.
Here we again took possession of our absent friends house, where we passed the night,
and made ourselves at home with a coolness quite refreshing in July
Here we received calls from other friends and accepted invitations for return visits We
dined by previous invitation with Mrs. DOlear visited many objects of interest in this
woodland town, where even the streets are paved with boards and plank, and at 2 pm took cars
on the Grand Trunk Railway for Toronto.
The egotism of these people is amazing we did not object to their refusal of our
beautifully engraved, and picturesque Green backs, but to refuse Our silver, was on outrage
At the Post office it would not be received at all, but at the Grand Trunk R.R. office, the clerk
condescended to accept the coin, at 9 pr cent discount!
Reaching Toronto in due time we decided upon remaining all night, and decide next
morning whether again to trust ourselves to the favors of Ontraio or continue our journey by
rail.
The City of Toronto is a small, compact and old fashioned settlement and in appearance
some hundred years behind this progressive age, having little or nothing to remind us of similar
sized cities in the States, as Rochester, Syracuse, Auburn and the like.
From this relict of the past we proceeded on our way by rail, the high winds stirring up
anticipated commotions, if we again crossed this raging inland sea, not altogether conducive to
pleasure; the only object of our journey So we paid more gold and more silver with 10 pr cent
discount on the latter and proceeded on our way, arriving at Hamilton in time for dinner.
Hamilton as a beautiful City, most pleasantly situated at the head of Lake Ontario, in
which the Yankee element has improved on Toronto visably Green backs accepted Silver
without discount in trade, and the City clean, bright and cheerful to the eye.
From Hamilton we took train to the Falls arriving at the Clifton House in time to
obtain a glimpse of this stupendous cataract before dark.
Niagara Falls! Falls of Niagara!!
Since the first description of these celebrated falls by good old father Hennepin some
two hundred years since many ambitious individuals have attempted to convey to others by
pen, or pencil in prose or verse, verbaly or in print, some idea of this wonder of nature.

As well might they attempt to describe the grandeur of a storm at sea a Water-Spout, or
a cyclone, to a deaf and dumb, or a blind asylum; with any hope of their feeble efforts being
understood, or appreciated as of doing any manner of justice to the subject.
An appreciative cockney decided that they were very nice An enthusiastic young
body just from boarding school said they were real cunning and just sweet for anything, A
Yankee of a practical turn of mind pronounced them the greatest water power in the world
and in fact they have been utilized for this purpose by the largest paper mill in the United States
An Irishman failed to see any thing wonderful in the fall, for Sure said he whats to hinder
it?
Let us not laugh at these absurdities for they go just as far in describing the falls of
Niagara as a combination of all the adjectives in the English language could so from the pens or
lips of the greatest orators, or writers; as the illustrations of our most eminent artists.
Description with pen or pencil is simply an impossibility, as well might you attempt to
paddle a canoe up, and against them. The first effect is almost stupefying. We stood speechless
for half an hour completely overcome by the majesty of the scene.
I speak of the effect upon the mind. The artist with his mastery of outline and colours
such as Vanderlyn, Church and others. Fine writers on the subject as Charles Dickens, Mrs.
Sigourney, Buckingham, and others more or less known to the public may make us acquainted
with the mere physical grandeur of Niagara; but to fully appreciate we must not only see, but
also hear and feel them. They appeal not to the senses only, but to the heart and soul, and all the
intellectual faculties of the observer.
Having recovered somewhat, let me proceed to state that by far the better view is
obtained from the Canada side, and the best of all, from Table Rock go there even if it is a little
unsafe (immense portions having fallen lately) it is worth the risk.
Every visitor goes to the Whirlpool, Goat Island, Terapin Tower, Cave of the Winds
cross in the ferry boat, or by the wonderfull suspension bridge, from a laudable curiosity, and
then return (if they are able to do so) to take a final view from Table Rock that it may be the
last in their remembrance.
But the grandeur, the magnificence, the sublimity, of the Falls is appreciated and felt, any
where, and everywhere within their neighborhood, and are alike overwhelming. So are the
expenses the charges to see this or that; the lofty condescension of the Hotel Keepers; their
clerks, stewards, and under-strappers generally; the impudent impertinence of the servants; the
extortions of carriage drivers; and the petty swindling of the residents generally.
So are the Custom House officials on the American side, with their airs and insolence;
which, were it possible for anything so contemptibly mean, to be great, would surpass them all.
As this class deserve more than a passing notice I hope to do them more justice than Niagara, or
even Niagara village has received my hands.
On the second day of our visit we left the Clifton house, and crossed the suspension
bridge by private carriage to the States, sending our trunks by express to the Custom house
After passing the gate we were met by a fellow who dressed in a little brief authority with a

strap and a badge on it, who in an insolent manner demanded if we had any thing contraband
with us? to which I replied No Sir!
Did you make any purchases on the other side? Now I, supposing the man meant
clothes furs, or valuable goods of some kind, again replied in the negative.
What has that child in her hand?
A small toy representing a birds nest
What did it cost? Fifty cents!
Where did you get it and that Indian lunch basket? In Canada
What did the basket cost?
About a dollar I think, we paid an Indian woman about that price as a curiosity
Then what made you tell tell me that you had made no purchases on the other side?
My meaning was, nothing of value, and nothing which has been concealed. I did not
consider these trifles ad contraband or worthy a mans notice.
No matter what you consider pay me the duty fifty cents
Certainly here is the money and now thanking you for your courtesy I desire a
Custom house clearance for the articles we have paid duty on. I believe we are entitled to one
it will be worth the cost as a curiosity when we reach home.
Here the coachman interposed and advised me not to insist on this His is obliged to give
you one if demanded but he may detain you here four hours as he did a party yesterday at a
cost of one dollar an hour for carriage hire.
Finding the insolent fellow had the advantage of us, we waived the clearance and
cleared to the Custom house to clear our trunks, where we found him in company with
another of the same kind.
The latter accosted us in the rudest manner Show me your trunks and give me your
keys
Here they are but we assure you on the honor of gentlemen that the trunks contain
nothing but ordinary wearing apparel.
Give up the keys I tell you
Then follows a complete and shameful overhauling, and public exposure of the sacred
linen &c of the ladies of our party, who fortunately escaped this shock to their feelings by
remaining in the carriage but whose indignation was boundless when informed of it.
Nothing of a contraband nature, or liable to duty being found the fellows proceeded to
replace the articles. Of course he could not do it Packing a ladies trunk is one of those things
you know that no fellow can understand. No one can pack a womans trunk but a woman,. She
can do it, and she will do it I honestly believe that if some ladies of my acquaintance made up
their minds they could find room for three bushels of jim cracks in a two bushel box or bag.
You may take my word for it that our ladies trunks were well filled every square inch
of room was economized to its utmost extent, and filled with a womans skill.
Therefore in the hands of a Male Custom house employee they would not go back I
mean what they call their things! A fringe, or a flounce, or a frill, a tuck, train, or a cut-bias, a
furbelow perhaps; it may be a bustle (whatever that is) would persist in sticking out until the

officer having the boss badge appealed to me thusly Say! Why the devil dont you help me
to get these blessed (come to think of it he did not say blesses) things in these trunks?
Why?! Because it is not my business to do so, and I have no experience in such matters.
I have been married many years yet have never packed, unpacked, or opened my wifes wardrobe,
or have ever seen her garments exposed as you have caused them to be you have committed a
shameful, unpardonable act, in your abuse of authority Your whole department has been
insolent, aggressive, and disgraceful as it proves to have been useless. Now having unpacked the
boxes, you may restore the articles, and I warn you that you shall be held strictly responsible for
any damage done to them, or for any unnecessary delay.
I dont want any of your lip or impertinence, said the now-angry man.
Nor is it my desire to be insulting but you have not only been insulting to me from the
first, but have outraged common decency in your manner of opening and exposing, the ladies
clothing, and we cannot but contrast your conduct with that of the custom house officers on the
Other side They were Gentlemen!
They had it all their own way during the war, he replied, and now it is our turn, and
we mean to use it.
That might apply to a southerner, or a foreigner perhaps, but we are citizens of the
United States, and of the State of New York, as our names, an address upon the trunks
sufficiently indicate; Surely a gentleman of your practice and experience, should know how to
fold a ladies garments better than that
Shut up your mouth will you?!
Or else employ a ladies maid in this department to assist you
Look here Mister! if you dont shut up, Il be damned if I dont find a way to make you
In my opinion you would have been better qualified for your position if you had served
an apprenticeship in a milliners shop, or
Sir if you utter one word more, said the now furious official, I will hold your baggage,
and have you put out of the building
You dare not! and let me tell you that if you are not accommodating and careful, we will
ventilate your whole establishment, the conduct of yourself and other of the officials; your
extortions and rudeness, through the columns of the New York daily papers, as soon as we reach
the city
There was magic in that threat, and the trunks were tenderly dealt with, strapped,
passed and delivered to the express man without further words or troubles.
The insolence and extortions of these Custom house fellows is of daily occurrences are
well known to travelers Every toy, curiosity, specimens of Indian work, even views of the falls,
photographs of yourself or friends, if procured on the Canada side of Niagara are made subject
to a duty often are well known to travelers Every toy, curiosity, specimens of Indian work, even
views of the falls, photographs of yourself or friends, if procured on the Canada side of
Niagara are made subject to a duty often greater than the original cost of the article!
To resist is to subject your self to insult and abuse To appeal would take longer time
than travelers for pleasure can well spare Victims have occasionally refused to be thus imposed

upon, and have been sustained by the courts, but the delay and consequent expenses have always
been double the value of the goods.
Not one cent of this petty swindling ever finds its way into the treasury of Uncle Sam
It is nothing but a system of black-mail levied upon travelers for the benefit of the highwaymen
at the gate of the bridge and their (illegible), hence my threat to publish our experience among
them in the Herald &c, awakened the only fear they had that of public exposure, through the
press.
At the Cataract house we found the systematic swindling of visitors, extortion and the
insolence of servants, second only to that of the Custom house We were in our bill several
dollars for cartage on trunks we had sent and paid for by private express The coloured
gentlemen in their enjoyment of the 15th Amendment would not consent to feed us at the hotel,
until we had liberally feed them, and even then waited upon us with an air of condescension and
patronage.
But we had seen and enjoyed the wonders of Niagara, which fully compensated us for all
the villainy and rudeness of the people who run that grand enterprise for the benefit of the
public in general, and themselves in particular.
We departed from the Falls sorrowfully after two or three days of perfect enjoyment and
rejoined our friends in Geneva whither they preceded us. This city, one of the most charming in
the State is situated at the foot of a lovely clear lake (Seneca) which is about forty miles long,
and five wide, with beautiful scenery all about it, and the romantically wile Watkins Glen near
the head.
Here we remained all night, after passing a delightful evening with our travelling
companions at Aunt Rachels. Our hotel arrangements proved to be any thing but agreeable
however, the building being for the present in possession of the virtuous youth of Hobart
College, who were enjoying their annual release from study by the annual orgies in drinking
smoking singing obscene songs, making left handed speeches, saying their prayers backwards,
and raising Cain generally. Pandemoniums let loose would be no match for pious Hobart on a
commencement.
The day following we started for home leaving one half of our party to complete their
visit to Aunt R------ arriving safely in the afternoon of the same day trunks, luggage and all, the
Custom house rapscallions to the contrary notwithstanding, after more than two weeks genuine
pleasure.
Hail Columbia!

Notes
As this pleasure trip was taken in July 1865 just after the close of the war, and only three months
after the cruel murder of President Lincoln by John Wilkes Booth my name (perhaps) might have
aggravated the ill treatment visitors usually receive at the falls when they arrive first by way of

Canada. I overheard a man say If I had my way I would pitch any trunk having that name on it
into the whirlpool!
The steamer Corinthian was soon after our voyage in her, carried away on a gale and
became a total wreck, fortunately no lives were lost.
The Hall family of Halls bridge returned our visit about two years or more afterwards,
and in the same year our kind hostess died after a short illness.
One of our friends of the Halls bridge (a very promising young man) fell overboard while
crossing Lake Ontario, and was drowned in the presence of his mother; and another young man
(member of the same family) died shortly afterwards of consumption.
Terrapin tower becoming shakey and insecure has been removed.
Table rock has long been considered unsafe, so to prevent accidents it has been blown
down with gunpowder, thus destroying the most commanding point of view in the whole circuit
of the falls.