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Table of Contents
Guitar Tube Amp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Step 4: Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 7: The Heater Power Supply(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Step 8: The Preamp Stages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Step 9: The Preamp Schematic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Step 10: Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Step 11: Power Amp Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Step 12: Output Transformer, Part 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 13: Output Transformer, part 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Step 14: Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Step 15: The Cabinet, Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Step 16: The Cabinet, Dowel Joints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Step 17: The Cabinet, Outer Covering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Step 18: The Cabinet, more construction details . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Step 19: Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Step 20: OH, Man...I wish I had... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Step 21: Finding parts for a build (transformers, etc.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Step 22: The End??? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Step 23: Update, V0.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Step 24: Update, V0.3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Step 25: Local NFB Option, V0.4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
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Image Notes
1. External speaker jack.
2. Screen supply switch
3. Negative feedback loop switch.
4. Back panels added, too.
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Image Notes
1. Groupie
2. Hi Voltage....
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Image Notes
1. The source of the transformer and choke, an old GE TV.
Image Notes
1. The magic transformer...a scavenged find.
2. Feel free to donate any old power transformers! :D
File Downloads
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[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to '6DG6GT.pdf']
Step 4: Components
Choice of components are alway contentious for tube amp builders. Some insist that one part or another is integral to the process. Hmmm. Although there maybe some
truth, there's lots of bunk, too.
Capacitors, Non-Electrolytic
Many swear by expensive polyester or polypropylene non-electrolytic caps. "Orange Drop" is one common type. I used mylar caps. Here's a secret: mylar caps are
polyester, mylar is just a proprietary name.
All non-electrolytic caps should be rated for 600V, since they are usually in the signal path. Small cathode bypass caps can have a lower voltage rating, however.
Capacitors, Electrolytic
Most caps 1uF or greater are electrolytic capacitors. They are a must for the power supply filter caps, and are also often used for cathode bypass caps.
These come in two general flavors: polarized and non-polarized. For this project, the only non-polarized electrolytic used were for the preamp cathode bypass caps.
Cathode bypass caps should be rated for twice the bias voltage. 50V rating is more than enough...
There's a "can" type multi cap photo, just for reference. New multi-caps can be found, but they are expensive, and can be hard to replace. These are an option, and are
very common in older amps...
Resistors
Again, some will argue the merits of carbon comp vs. metal foil resistors, etc. If you're a believer, knock yourself out ;-). Normal off-the-shelf resistors work just fine.
Ratings:
Resistor application and ratings
Power tube cathode bias : 5 to 10 watts
Power supply current-dropping : 2 to 5 watts
The remainder : 1/2 watt
(Sorry for any formatting issues. PRE tags have been removed for non-pro members.)
Image Notes
1. Electrolytic (polarized) capacitor.
Image Notes
1. Mylar Capacitor, example
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Image Notes
1. The 'can.' After the recap job, it's still there, but for 'looks' only.
2. The multi-capacitor specs...
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Image Notes
1. Oops. Forgot to photograph the steel sheet before bending...
Image Notes
1. Zot!
Image Notes
1. Trim off excess...
Image Notes
1. Nibbler tool works here...
Image Notes
1. Stepped drill bits ROCK!
Image Notes
1. The mighty nibbler tool.
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Image Notes
1. Too big for the stepped bit, nibbled and filed.
2. Rubber grommets.
Image Notes
1. Best damned invention for drilling large holes in metal, the stepped drill bit.
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Also changed--originally, the preamp plate supply was slated to run on the same voltage as the screens. But it made sense to run the preamp at a higher voltage. So an
additional RC stage (B.2) was added:
Preamp Supply
Preamp supply (B.2): As noted, this section was inserted AFTER the first version was built. I started with a 220 ohm resistor for the RC filter, but settled on a 1K value for
a smoother supply. 1K didn't drop the voltage much at all (which had become obvious before when building the screen supply.) It would be nice to run the preamp tube
directly off the B.1 supply, but preamps need something less noisy...
Screen Supply
Screen supply (B.3): Originally the second section of a two section PSU; in real operation it didn't match the Duncan PSUD2 software very closely. The simulator
estimated the resistor for the last RC filter at 2.7K - 3.3K. But during the build the screen voltage was much too high--over 170V. with substitution, the eventual 15k value
was chosen, which placed the screens at a nice 120V. A 20K resistor would probably work just as well... Surprisingly, the amp still functioned (poorly) with the initial high
screen voltages, and the tubes weren't damaged. Vacuum tubes are amazingly forgiving of abuse...
Misc
The PS voltage-dropping resistors are all 5 watt, although a 3 watt type would have been fine for the B.3 section (15k.)
Regarding capacitance values, perhaps four 100uf caps are overkill, but they do the job. 100uF would be too high for a tube rectifier, but isn't a problem with the SS
bridge.
No "bleed resistor" has been installed. One quirk of this amp--the PS caps seem to drain through (cathodes to screens) the 6DG6GT tubes, possibly due to the very hot
filaments. They keep the tube internals warm enough after power-down that the tube keeps functioning for a second or two. I don't know this for sure, but when I was
experimenting with "triode mode" for the power tubes (screens not connected to main B.3), the caps were NOT draining.
Regardless, ALWAYS check the filter caps before touching the internals.
Like the whole build, the power supply's appearance is a bit inelegant, but it was modified several times during the project... Eventually it should be disassembled and
reassembled in a sensible fashion.
I've included a PDF on toroid transformer construction, for the adventurous...
Image Notes
1. The mystery choke...5H is probably about right...
2. Not wired, yet.
3. The cap values are overkill. Smaller values, especially for the B.2 and B.3 taps
would be fine.
4. The magic transformer. Unfortunately the filament tap isn't a separate winding.
5. The solid-state rectifier
Image Notes
1. B.3, Screen supply
2. B.2, 180V for the preamps
3. B.1, plate.
4. The reclaimed choke.
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Image Notes
1. The nicely laid-out power supply, from the rectifier on. It's BEFORE the changes
(grrrr.) It's not quite so elegant now...
2. The TV choke.
3. The bridge rectifier.
File Downloads
Image Notes
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Image Notes
1. False center tap to reduce hum.
2. 0.3 amp supply for the preamp tube.
3. Yeah, it's a bit ghetto...
4. 117V AC, tapped after the main power switch and fuse.
Image Notes
1. 6V from the wallwart.
2. False center-tap, to silence hum.
3. 12AX7 preamp tube socket
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Image Notes
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Image Notes
1. Two. Two. Two tubes in one.
2. Triode #1
3. Triode #2
Image Notes
1. Standard triode schematic, 1/2 of a 12AX7. This type of visualization is also
used with the dual triode tubes.
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--Rather than change any values on the the second preamp stage, a negative feedback loop could be added. This would tone down the "ballsy-ness" a bit.
Negative feedback could also be adjustable. A second "presence" control, if you will...
(NOTE: I tried it, but the amp became "farty", so I ripped out the NFB loop right away.)
Image Notes
1. Cathode bypass cap and cathode bias resistor, stage 2
2. Plate resistor, stage 2
3. Plate resistor, stage 1
4. Cathode bypass cap and cathode bias resistor, stage 1
5. Power stage above
6. Tone and volume above, in the middle of the preamp.
7. Input pad
8. Volume
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Image Notes
1. The presence control
2. The tone control
3. Volume control
4. Second Cap, modified.
5. First cap--this and the second tone cap were modified from the values returned by the TSC program. They were simply substituted until I liked the result...
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The datasheets recommend 180 ohm for 200V, although one datasheet used 160 ohms. We'll stick with 150 ohm for now. There's no sign of red plating or any other
problems. If it lessens the life of the power tubes considerably, I'll change it to 180 ohms...
Load Resistance Based on the Datasheet
Power tubes have a characteristic called "load resistance," which specifies a recommended output transformer impedance. The load resistance is listed on the datasheet:
Voltage of 6DG6GT : load resistance
110V : 2000 (ohms)
200V : 4000
(Again, sorry for the lost formatting.)
With B.1 voltage close to 190V, a load resistance around 3666 ohms is recommended. However, this value is for one tube.
Load resistance for two tubes is half the value of one, or about 1833 ohms. This is the theoretical value of the primary impedance for our output transformer.
Note: this is a guesstimate, based on the datasheet. In the next step, we'll actually find the load resistance mathematically...
Maximum Power Output
(The load resistances discussed here are for one tube--since this project uses two, then 1/2 these values are equivalent within the circuit. )
I originally estimated the power output from the datasheets as approx 7+ watts. But the example values in the datasheets are for polite amplifiers, where accurate sound
fidelity is more important than volume. But guitar amps need distortion, so we push this one pretty hard.
So lets look at the load resistance vs. power output chart. The red line represents our load resistance, somewhere near 3500 ohms (remember, for two tubes, that's 1700
ohms.) Where the red line crosses the Po curve is our power output.
For a "driven" amp, the max output is close to 4.4 watts. In fact, any load resistance values between 2600 and 6000 ohms exceed 4 watts per tube. These values depend
on a high p-p signal, a decent bias and a plate voltage of 200v.
We're at 190V, so it'll be slightly less than the chart. We don't really know the p-to-p output of the preamp stage, but the preamp is definitely hi-gain. And we are running
the power stage with a "hot" bias....
We'll never know for sure unless it's bench-tested, but I suspect this amp is running above 4 watts per tube, over 8 watts total. It's safe to say this is an 8 watt amp.
Image Notes
1. From the 'Gibsonette' schematic--parallel SE output stage.
2. Only one grid-stopper resistor, between the two output tube grids on the
'Gibsonette.'
Image Notes
1. Grid stopper resistors.
2. Switch on back of chassis.
3. Cathode bias resistors, 5 watt.
4. Cathode bypass caps could be reduced...
5. Output transformer.
6. Weber 4 ohm speaker
7. The connection that makes this "parallel SE."
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Image Notes
1. Load resistance at 110 and 200V.
Image Notes
1. 4.4 watts per tube, or 8+ watts for two tubes.
2. 6DG6GT datasheets say: all 50L6 curves apply.
3. 4 watts output line.
Image Notes
1. Why I used the 50L6 load resistance vs. power output chart--The 6DG6GT
datasheets don't have that chart, but ALL 50L6 charts apply...
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Image Notes
1. Edcor GXSE...so new, they aren't in the catalog yet...but the website has them.
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Image Notes
1. Hammond 125 universal series.
Image Notes
1. Hammond 125SE (single ended only ) series.
2. Note that there's no rated impedance less than 2500 ohms...
Image Notes
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Image Notes
1. The Edcor is massive compared to the Hammond...
Image Notes
1. Point-to-point wiring.
2. Yellow wires are power tube filament twisted-pair wires.
3. DC filament wiring for preamp tube.
Image Notes
1. Vintage NOS phenolic socket...maybe a new ceramic is preferable (but I've got
about 30 of these...)
2. New ceramic sockets.
3. Tube locations suck. They should all be in-line against the back of the chassis...
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Image Notes
1. Tools of the trade...
Image Notes
1. Scavenged lumber.
Image Notes
1. Bevel edges with a hand plane.
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Image Notes
1. Sides cut.
Image Notes
1. Test fit sides and bottom.
2. Temporary brace.
3. Bar clamps
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Image Notes
1. Cutting the chassis supports by hand (it's quicker than using power tools...if you
know what you're doing.)
Image Notes
1. Checking the squareness of the cut. Pretty close to a right angle...for an
eyeball.
Image Notes
1. The chassis supports planed smooth and square.
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Image Notes
1. Dowel centers placed in the holes.
Image Notes
1. Bit and collar.
2. Dowel centers.
Image Notes
1. Marked for drilling.
2. Roughed up for gluing.
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Image Notes
1. Ready for dowels and assembly.
Image Notes
1. Clamp tightly.
Image Notes
1. PVA glue.
Image Notes
1. Cross brace. Assembled and clamped with bar clamp.
2. Chassis support.
3. Chassis support, dried overnight.
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Image Notes
1. Contact cement.
Image Notes
1. Large roll of vinyl.
Image Notes
1. A brayer.
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Image Notes
1. Draw the covering over the edge and on to the back.
Image Notes
1. First stage done, cover applied.
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Image Notes
1. Corner, cut #1
Image Notes
1. After cuts 1 and 2.
Image Notes
1. Corner, cut #2
Image Notes
1. Corner, cut #3.
Image Notes
1. Corner, optional angled cut #4.
2. The edge flap. Glue, then wrap this flap inward first.
3. The back flap. Wrap this flap second, over the first.
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Image Notes
1. Corner, finished.
2. Staples are optional.
Image Notes
1. Cover finished, corners included.
Image Notes
1. Front panel dress.
2. The top.
3. Chickenhead goodness.
4. The wall-o-clamps.
5. Poor little Hammond OT, before retirement.
Image Notes
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Image Notes
1. The speaker baffle traced before cutting.
Image Notes
1. Speaker cutout.
Image Notes
1. 4 holes were drilled for the sabre saw blade.
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Image Notes
1. Countersink bit on a hand drill.
2. Countersunk hole, one of eight.
Image Notes
1. Closeup of the countersinking.
Image Notes
1. Mounting screws glued in place.
Image Notes
1. The back of the speaker baffle.
Image Notes
1. Test-fitting speaker baffle.
Image Notes
1. Speaker mounted and the baffle test-fitted.
Image Notes
1. Test the speaker mounts.
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Image Notes
1. Burlap drawn and stapled; no glue.
Image Notes
1. Cleat for the front baffle.
Image Notes
1. Screws and finishing washers.
Image Notes
1. Baffle with grill cloth finished.
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Image Notes
1. Nothing to brag about here...yes, I need to rewire it. Although I'll probably just
start over with a new chassis and a better layout.
Image Notes
1. Vintage NOS phenolic socket...maybe a new ceramic is preferable (but I've
got about 30 of these...)
2. New ceramic sockets.
3. Tube locations suck. They should all be in-line against the back of the
chassis...
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Image Notes
1. Somewhat difficult to find transformer--at least new.
2. NOS tubes--easy to find.
Image Notes
1. Look to the source--obsolete electronics. Save something good from the landfill.
Image Notes
1. Pilot, on/off, standby
2. Presence, tone, volume
3. inputs 1 and 2
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Image Notes
1. Reduced to 20uF. Anything from 5uF to 50uF is reasonable.
2. New switchable screen supply.
File Downloads
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Image Notes
1. Screen-grid stopper
2. External speaker jack
3. Extra bypass cap (switchable) removed.
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Image Notes
1. External speaker jack.
2. Screen supply switch
3. Negative feedback loop switch.
4. Back panels added, too.
Image Notes
1. The jack is mounted in a recessed draw pull.
Image Notes
1. Old Peavey bass cab, with the front removed for the photo. Too bad it's like 100
lbs...
Image Notes
1. The Whizzer Cone
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Image Notes
1. Larger resistance values means less feedback, so less effect...
Image Notes
1. External speaker jack.
2. Screen supply switch
3. Negative feedback loop switch.
4. Back panels added, too.
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lolcat360
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
Amp in Case
Reproduction
Guitar Case
(Photos) by
grp19
Acoustic Guitar
Pickup by
adamkumpf
Comments
view all 293 comments
cnludwig says:
Cool project. I like how you used otherwise unwanted parts (power tubes and transformer) and created a design around it.
gmoon says:
:-)
eridan says:
smartrobot says:
gmoon says:
smartrobot says:
I googled the tubes that had letters on them it looks like they came out of a old tv so it does not matter.
katatonicdean says:
gmoon says:
katatonicdean says:
gmoon says:
katatonicdean says:
Oh, and can i use a higher ohm speaker. I was thinking an 8 ohm or 16 ohm speaker. What would I need to do?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
gmoon says:
ski4jesus says:
DUDE. that is sooo sweet haha hey btw, i have that sammmeee guitar haha great job!
reinovator says:
Thank you for keeping PURE amplification Alive.This is a keeper!! Thank you.
rode says:
Very well explained - maybe too well, as those with no experience might be tempted. Nice job overall though - very thorough.
There are a lot of comments about this amp, so I may have missed it ... Using the 7V tap off the main HT winding is a VERY BAD idea, because you can
very easily exceed the maximum heater/cathode voltage (which will cause catastrophic failure), and at the very minimum you get hum if there is any leakage.
Just upgrade the wallwart used for the 12AX7 so it can handle all the heaters. All the circuitry operates at hazardous voltages (including the output valve
heaters !!!). This is a potential killer - please amend the circuit to use the small auxiliary heater transformer for all valves - both for safety and to protect the
heater-cathode insulation.
The position of the standby switch means that as you switch it off, a HUGE voltage spike is generated in the choke because you've just interrupted the
current flow. The spike can (and has) damaged the insulation in the choke.
This can be fixed by using diodes (you'll have to work out where they go, it's too hard to describe in a short message).
Single-ended Class-A output stages always have asymmetrical distortion which many guitarists dislike. A disconnected speaker will usually cause the
demise of the output transformer (same mechanism as interrupting the current through the filter choke).
Hope this is helpful.
gmoon says:
rode says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
gmoon says:
gmoon says:
rode says:
gmoon says:
REA says:
isnt it the amps (lol pun!) that kill you, not the voltage?
zack247 says:
i think i have a tube like the one on the far left in step 22. never knew how to use it...
mwseniff says:
gmoon says:
Great comment!
The Gemini II is largely refurbished! Unfortunately, when I bought the amp years ago (in 1978) the original speaker was missing. I've got an old Hepner
alnico speaker installed, but I'm looking for a better replacement...
But I'm also playing a rebuilt Kalamazoo "Bass 30" as a guitar amp, and that also uses 7591 output tubes, and I love it!
Earthscum says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
gmoon says:
Thanks for your comment. The "valve wizard" site is already listed on the "links" page.
However, my comment isn't about the missing bypass cap value, rather the fact that it isn't identified as a cathode bypass cap in the datasheet graphic.
jack002 says:
ElJefeUno says:
dickweed101us says:
sonofkikkoman says:
gmoon says:
UnseenBucket says:
gmoon says:
Thanks! Search for "valvecaster"--it's a low-voltage preamp, and a great intro to tubes.
You'd need a working amplifier to plug it into, of course...
mattzerah says:
gmoon says:
smeezekitty says:
gmoon says:
None that I've bricked...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
manumanu764 says:
gmoon says:
Iceberg59 says:
gmoon says:
Iceberg59 says:
gmoon says:
Iceberg59 says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/
clean and the other for more, erm, exotic stuff. I'm going to have to think that one through a bit more. One of my other avocations is
woodworking, so building the cabs and head case would be no serious chore; I have numerous resources for free plans, including several
Instructables, and sources for salvage components that I don't already have on hand as well. I can even round up or scrounge old chassis
and control plates or fabricate them if need be -- a brother with an ironworker is a useful asset. And I'm not too concerned with portability
because I wouldn't be dumb enough to use a homebuilt for playing out at least until I'd had several hundred hours' worth of proofing on the
thing beforehand.
I didn't get a chance to look at the unit last night and won't now until the weekend. Hope you don't mind me picking your brain once I've got a
better idea of what I have here.
'Berg
gmoon says:
therocksock says:
therocksock says:
nevermind
gmoon says:
OK.
(You should look at simple push-pull amps like the Fender Super 5D4 instead, if you want to use 6L6 tubes. A push-pull output transformer for a pair
of 6L6's will be cheaper than a single-ended transformer for a pair...)
therocksock says:
ok thanks
http://www.instructables.com/id/Guitar-Tube-Amp/