Color Wonderful: The Revolutionary Color 1 Associates Wardrobe A

COLOR
WONDERFUL
COLOR 1THE ONLY COLOR SYSTEM THAT

TREATS EVERY WOMAN AS AN INDIVIDUAL.
JOANNE NICHOLSON & JUDY LEWIS-CRUM
Digitized by the Internet Archive

in
2010
http://www.archive.org/details/colorwonderfulreOOnich
IVhicli oj the following statcificiits arc true?
All blue-eyed blondes tend to look
good
same
in the
colors.
Heavy women should never wear
Colors that "wash you out" when you are pale will
look great
when you have
large prints.
suntan.
There should be one "pure" white blouse
in
every
woman's wardrobe.
Bright colors are not
Large jewelry looks best on large
as "tasteful" as neutral tones.
women
and vice
versa.
Women
soft,
or
60 years old and older look prettier wearing
dusty, and pastel colors rather than bright or clear
more
vibrant colors.
Coral blush
is
basic
makeup
color that every
woman
can wear enhancingly.
you have answered "true" to any of these statements,

you may be dressing in a way that does not do justice to
If
your
own
individual coloring.
COLOR WONDERFUL
it shows you how to

expand your world of color and make the entire spectrum
your personal palette.
explodes these and other myths, as
JoAnne Nicholson and Judy Lewis-Crum

co-founders of
COLOR ASSOCIATES,
1
are the
INC., the most
comprehensive personalized color service in the world,

currently offered in all fifty states and many foreign countries
by more than four hundred consultants. The authors
have combined their professional fashion experience, along

with years of color research, consultation, and teaching,
to provide the very best color information available. Jo-
Anne Nicholson and Judy Lewis-Crum maintain

tive
an ac-
speaking schedule throughout the United States and
abroad.
COLOR
WONDERFUL
J
COLOR
The Revolutionary
Color 1 Associates
Wardrobe and Makeup Program
by
Nicholson and Judy Lewis-Crum
JoAnne
with Jacqueline Thompson
%
k
BANTAM BOOKS
^^ TORONTO NEW YORK
LONDON
SYDNEY
AUCKLAND
ASSOCIATES
We
dedicate this hook to
our Color
associates
and our
clients
throughout the world.
COLOR WONDERFUL
Bantam Book
I February
1986
COLOR ASSOCIA TES,
The name
/A'C. and the loô consisting of

the numeral "I" and the word "COLOR" below are registered
trademarks of
] ASSOCL^TES, ISC.
1
COLOR
COLOR IVOSDEREUL"'
ATES, I\C
The models appearing

of
clients
Due
is
a trademark
of
COLOR
ASSOCI-
All rights reserved.
COLOR
COLOR IVOSDERFUL
in
are associates
and
ASSOCIATES. ISC
to variations in print runs, the color
swatches in the insert

vary slightly firom the actual hues.
may
All rights reserved.
1986 hyJoAniie Sicholson and Judy Lewis-Cnim.

Cover photograph copyright 1986 by Anthony Loew.
Copyright
SVC
Color insert designed by Art Patrol.

This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, by
mimeograph or any other means, without permission
For information address: Bantam Book>. hh
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Nicholson. JoAnnc.
Color wonderful.
Includes index.
1. Beauty. Personal.
2. Color in clothing.
3. Cosmetics.
4. Hairdressing.
I. Lewis-Crum. Judv
11. Color 1 Associates.
111. Title.
RA778.N724
1986
646.7'2
85-47794
ISBN
()-553-34238-X
Published simultaneously
Bantam Books
Registered
Sew
United States and Canada
are published
consisting oj the words
Marca
in the
by Bantam Books. Inc. Its trademark,

"Bantam Books" and the portrayal of a rooster is
U.S. Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries.

Bantam Books. Inc.. 666 Fifth Avenue Sew York
Regtstrada.
York 10103
PKINTEl) IN THE UNITED ST.^TES OF AMERICA
KP
98765432
Acknowledgments
We
would
acknowledge the contribution of our
like to
Color 1 associates to the creation of this book.

You, our consultants throughout the United
States
and
the world, are responsible for the continuing excellence of

the Color
concept.
Your hard work, your personal
achievements, and your concern for your clients are
source of fulfillment to
us.
You have been
a great
the catalysts
for unprecedented changes in the lives and looks of tens
of thousands of
women
each year.
We
applaud you,
appreciate you, thank you, and love you.
We
could not have brought our Color
concept to
life
without the help of our master photographer, Michael
Perham, and our very talented makeup artist and hair

stylist, Brenda Perham. The unswerving dedication, understanding, and professionalism they brought to this
project are highly appreciated.
Our "models" were our
women
consultants and clients. These
devoted generous portions of
task of helping us
show you some of
their
time to the
the differences in
human
coloring that exist around the globe, and
like to
thank them.
we would
We
want
to
acknowledge
debt of gratitude to our
men and women whose belief in Color Associhas made us not only the largest, but the most highly
clients,
ates
respected personal color charting service in the world.
by following the Color
excites us that,
clients feel happier,
about
you
their look
for
more
attractive,
It
concept, our
and more confident
and warcirobe than ever before. Thank
recommending our concept
to so
many of your
family and friends.
This book
women
world
over who want more individualized color wardrobe and
makeup knowledge and want to look fabulous all the
is
for our clients
time!
and for
the
Contents
Acknowledgments
List of Plates
xii
Introduction: Exploding the Color
The Best You Can Be

Part
I:
Color
Chapter
1:
Myths
with Color
Color Basics
Your Color
Color Type
Determining Your Skin Tone

Determining Your Main Hair Color and
Highlights
6
9
11
12
15
Determining Your Color Type

The Pure White Test
16
17
The Woman-Across-the-Room Test

The Judgment Test
20
Cross-Color Types
21
Chapter 2: Your Color
Color Chart
Shades and Clarities
Your
Your
Your
Your
Your
17
24
25
Body Colors
26
Complimentary Colors
Best White
Gray
Dark Neutrals
28
29
30
31
Chapter
3:
33
Wardrobe Wizardry
33
Universal Color Principles

Striking the Right Balance
Through
36
Contrast Levels
38
Universally Enhancing Colors There Are a Few
40
Color Camouflage: Dealing with Figure Faults
Advice for Women Who Think They're Too Heavy 41
Chapter
4:
Makeup and Hair Cohmii^ Maîc
Universal
Makeup
45
Principles
Your Complexion
Exceptions to the Rule: If You Have to
"Correct" Your Complexion
What Difference Does a Tan Make?
Your Skin Tone and Aging
All About Lip Color
Adding Color to Your Cheeks
Choosing
the Right Base for
Glasses and
Makeup
Do
Change Color Types When
Coloramics
Chapter
5:
for
Your Color Type
Wardrobe Advice
Your Best
Your Best
Adding an
Your Best
Color
49
50
52
54
'
II:
48
Color My Hair?
Should I Color My Gray Hair?
Part
47
53
Blonds Have More Fun?

I
46
53
Universal Hair Coloring Principles
Will
45
for
Muted Coloring
Clarities
55
56
57
59
60
Level of Contrast
61
Accent Color
62
Neutrals
62
Fabric Textures and Weights
70
Patterns, Prints, and Designs
71
Jewelry
71
Handbags and Attache Cases
73
Shoes
74
Eyeglass Frames
Evening Wear
75
Furs
76
Makeup and Hair Coloring Advice

Makeup Colors
Coordinating Your Makeup and
Clothing Colors
Hair Coloring
75
76
77
79
81
Chapter
6:
Wardrobe Advice
Your Best
Your Best
Adding an
Your Best
Color
for
Gentle Coloring
Clarities
84
85
Level of Contrast
85
Accent Color
87
Neutrals
87
94
Patterns, Prints, and Designs
95
Jewelry
95
97
Shoes
98
Eyeglass Frames
98
Evening Wear
99
Furs
100

Makeup Colors
100
102
Clothing Colors
104
Hair Coloring
Chapter
7:
106
Wardrobe Advice
Your Best
Your Best
Adding an
Your Best
Color
for Light-Bright
Coloring
Clarities
108
109
Level of Contrast
110
Accent Color
111
Neutrals
112
120
and Designs
121
Patterns, Prints,
Jewelry
121
122
Shoes
123
Eyeglass Frames
124
Evening Wear
124
Furs
124

Makeup Colors
Clothing Colors
Hair Coloring
Chapter
8:
Color
126
129
131
Wardrobe Advice for Contrast Coloring
Your Best
Your Best
Adding an
Your Best
125
Clarities
132
133
Level of Contrast
134
Accent Color
135
Neutrals
136

Patterns, Prints,
and Designs
142
143
Jewelry
145
146
Shoes
147
Eyeglass Frames
148
Evening Wear
148
Furs
149

Makeup Colors
Clothing Colors
149
150
153
Hair Coloring
155
Part III: Cast a Color Spell
157
Chapter
159
Color Chic
9:
The Color
Capsule Wardrobe Concept
160
Capsule Wardrobes for Muted Color Types
165
Capsule Wardrobes for Cientle Color Types
166
Capsule Wardrobes for Light-Bright
Color Types
167
Capsule Wardrobes for Contrast Color Types

Alice
A Case Study
The Color
The Color
169
Capsule Coat Wardrobe
171
Capsule Casual Wardrobe
174
175
Chapter 10: Color Charisma
the Great Self-Motivator

Color
Impact on Others
Color
Its
Mood
Dressing and Other Special Effects
The
Ethereal or Fragile
Look
Earthy Looks
Showstopper Looks
Power Dressing
A Final Note About Your Get-Ahead Wardrobe
Chapter
168
176
176
179
179
180
182
185
189
Color Budêtiu^
190
Wardrobe Errata
The Conglomeration Collection
191
11:
191
Bargain Bare
192
The Neutral Niche

The Uniform Dresser
The Headless Person
192
193
193
Ms.
194
Insignificant
Salvaging
Some of the
Clothes
You
Already
Own
195
Deploying the "Color Break" as a Salvage Tool

The Cost of Your Wardrobe Salvage Operation
Shopping with a Color Chart
195
Glossary
199
Color 1 Associates
and Abroad
Index
in the
197
197
United States
202
209
List of Plates
Muted Color Type
25
Contrast Levels and Print Sizes
Gentle Color Type
26
Fabrics for
27
Wrong Muted Wardrobe Look
Type
Contrast Color Type
28
Right Muted Wardrobe Look
Skin Tones
29
Fabrics for Gentle Coloring
Caucasian Skin Tones
30
Wrong
Black Skin Tones
31
Right Gentle Wardrobe Look
Lip Colors
32
Fabrics for Light-Bright Coloring
Light-Bright Color
Muted Coloring
Gentle Wardrobe Look
Muted Coloring and Color Chart
33
Wrong
10
Gentle Coloring and Color Chart
34
Right Light-Bright Wardrobe Look
11
Light-Bright Coloring and Color Chart
35
Fabrics for Contrast Coloring
12
Contrast Coloring and Color Chart
36
Wrong
13
Muted Coloring with Gray Hair
37
Right Contrast Wardrobe Look
14
Gentle Coloring with Gray Hair
38
15
Light-Bright Coloring with Gray Hair
39
16
Contrast Coloring with Gray Hair
40
17
Black Muted Coloring
41
18
Black Gentle Coloring
42
19
Black Light-Bright Coloring
43
20
Black Contrast Coloring
44
21
Clarities
of Green
45
Wrong Muted Makeup Look

Right Muted Makeup Look
Wrong Gentle Makeup Look
Right Gentle Makeup Look
Wrong Light-Bright Makeup Look
Right Light-Bright Makeup Look
Wrong Contrast Makeup Look
Right Contrast Makeup Look
22
Clarities
of Red
46
Jennifer
23
Clarities
of Blue
47
Jennifer Ho's Color Chart
24
Color Value
Light-Bright Wardrobe Look
Contrast Wardrobe Look
Ho
Introduction
Exploding the
Color Myths
Color.
It's
blossom,
Mother Nature's siren call, luring the bee to the

mate to the peacock indeed, Adam to that
his
bright red apple. Color
one of nature's greatest gifts to

universal language to which we all
is
humankind. It's a
respond. But how many of us think of color in this way?
Color is also the quintessential element in dressing successfully. It's certainly the least costly. But it's also probably the most overlooked.
Why? Because the majority of adults are suffering from
color phobia. Most of us were born with a glorious,
instinctive sense of color that was systematically bred out
of us as we matured. As children, we absorbed our teachers' cliched opinions about color in school and our parents' color biases at home. As we grew up, we lost that
awesome, wondrous sensation we experienced as kids
munching popcorn and watching Walt Disney's Technicolor marvel Fantasia for the
first
time.
Gradually, instead of following our
we succumbed
Red
can't
wear
als."
"Brown, how
red.
own
to the color expectations

is
color instincts,
of others:
too flashy." "Black
dull! It's for
is
"You
for funer-
people with no pizazz."
Exploding the Color Myths
Once we were open and adventurous;
then
we became
timid and insecure.
Through
1 concept, we want to restore your

magic and teach you how to showcase
best self through the medium of color. We
the Color
lost sense ot color
your
own
want to instill in you the belief that your color horizons

are bounded only by the limits of your own imagination
and no one else's. Let us Hberate you from the prevailing
color mythology that is imprisoning so many contempo-
women.
The Color
rary
for
Color
concept works for everybody everywhere,

Associates
international color
Inc.
is
highly
personalized
and image consulting company whose
concept has been helping
women
and
men
look
terrific
since 1968. Ours is the first color firm to train a far-flung

network oi consultants, now numbering 429 women
and some men who chart thirty to forty thousand
clients a year in fifty states as well as in the Philippines,
Japan, Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Australia, England,

France,
Germany, Israel, and Canada.

Judy Lewis-Crum and JoAnne Nicholson
We
researching the subject of coloring in the
mutual
interest in
it
began
1960s.
grew out of our experience
Our
work-
as
ing professionals in the fields of art and fashion.
This
book embodies our color discoveries not only truths we

stumbled upon back in the late 1960s when we, as individuals, first began color-charting clients, but what we've
learned more recently by listening to the feedback from
our thousands of Color
Our
Associates cUents.
color insights will surprise
need to perform color sorcery are
you because
many of
you'll
all
the clothing
and makeup items you already possess,
a few well-chosen
knowledge of how
look your most radiant.
additional purchases, and a thorough

to
combine them
effectively to
Prepare yourself for

ciples
we
second shock. The Color
prin-
are about to enunciate in Color Wonderful are
going to widen, not narrow, your wardrobe and makeup
make it simpler, not more

mix and match your outfits every
morning. Rather than locking you into a rigid color "formula," the Color 1 concept is designed to hberate you
from color prison.
The five tenets that form the cornerstone of the Color 1
choices.
difficult,
COLOR IVOSDERFUL
They
for
are going to
you
to
concept are definitive and easy to grasp:
1.
All
women
fall
one of four basic color types

fall in between in what we
into
Plates 1-4, 9-20);
some
(see
call
cross-color types.
2.
You have
unique body color scheme, which deter-
mines your color category and your best colors as

well. In deciding which color shades are most enhancis the most important factor, but all of
your natural body colors must be taken into consider-
ing, skin tone
ation.
3.
You can wear every
provided you
and intensity of
clarity,
select the shade,
color
that color
most becoming
to
you.
4.
You
have
at least
fourteen best color families in your
personal color spectrum and possibly as
Mixing them
eight.
in
nearly every color coordinates with

5.
many
wardrobe
is
all
as
twenty-
snap since
the others.
dress effectively, you must know the shades, clarities,

and values of colors that look best on you in addition
To
to following the color coordination rules that apply to
your
specific color type.
Once you have determined your
color type,
be able to use the universal principles for

Part
I.
Then you
all
you
will
color types in
will also be able to use the specific rules
on your color type in Part

of color contrast, your best print
in the separate chapter
your best level

of contrast within the
levels
prints,
your best
II
to find
sizes
and
fabric weights
and textures, your best jewelry size and metallic finishes,

your best fur colors, your best colors, sizes, and materials
for purses, your best color and materials for shoes, your
best colors for eyeglass frames,
wear colors
in line
and your best evening
with expected lighting conditions. The
universal principles in Part
and the
specific rules in
your
II will also tell you how to select the right

makeup, nail polish, and hair coloring shades to compliment your natural coloring.
Don't be surprised if some or all of the five Color 1
tenets strike you as heresy. They are heresy. They repre-
chapter of Part
sent a revolt against the Neanderthal thinking that has
turned America, in our opinion, into

illiterates.
How
By
nation of color
not only America.
did people arrive
confusion?
and
And
at this
advanced
state
of color
listening to their mothers, their teachers,
their friends.
By
reading information in magazines
and books that was either wrong or
far
too general to be
helpful (like the magazine article that advised
"Screaming, can't-miss-it
Some
unfortunate
red
is
women
readers:
its
everybody's best bet!").
are
valiantly trying to
still
build their wardrobes around traditional color conventions they should have discarded
of these
women
still
twenty years ago.
Many
believe, for example, that their hair
what colors look good on them. Redheads

should stuff their closets with greens and other earth
tones and eschew any form of the heinous red. (But see
how fabulous our red-haired model in Plate 28 looks in
color dictates
her best red.) Blonds should envelop themselves in pastels,
while the lucky brunettes can bask
in all the vibrant
colors of the spectrum.
They
still
believe the shibboleth, "Certain colors for
certain seasons."
To
be fashionably dressed,
woman
should pack away her whites and other light and brightcolored clothes in winter and don the deeper, somber
shades of black, gray, and burgundy. She should choose
and navy-red-white combinations (with patent
pastels
leather accessories) for spring, flaunt vivid, tropical colors
and/or pale pastels

colors of the
And when
women
still
all
autumn
summer, and
retire to the
leaves throughout the
fall.
many of these
doomed to a
their hair finally turns to gray,
believe they're automatically
narrow range of "old lady colors"
muted
lavender,
dove gray,
black (worn with pearls, of course), navy, rose beige, and
At
similar neutrals.
all
costs, they
must avoid loud
and large geometrical patterns and forever

or subdued
solids
florals.
(But note
how
gray-haired models look in their best shades,

levels
of contrast
prints
after live in
vibrant our
clarities,
and
in Plates 13-16.)
While many of the over-forty half of the adult female

population remain color starved because of such old wives'
tales,
many of
the under-forty generation adhere to an
equally restrictive color diet for an entirely different set of

reasons. They're held in check
by the
the "dress for success" crowd.
The theory
In order to
must wear
COLOR WOXDERFUL
of
is this:
succeed in the working world,
suits
women
("the business uniform") in dark "au-
thority" colors, ranging
brown
rigid color rules
from black
to steel gray, dark
(but only in the Midwest), navy, deep
and beige (but only
in the Sunbelt in the
maroon,
summer). In
women
addition,
should avoid
of green, or any color that
is
most shades
suits in pastels,
bright or exotic.
like suits, should be solid-colored or have

subdued pattern that they look soHd at a distance.
Finally, there must be high contrast between the colors of
a woman's suit and her blouse. All this adds up to what is
Blouses,
such
called the
"power look."
Obviously,
nothing
everything to do with symbols and
this has
do with women's natural coloring. That
at all to
kind of uniform can hardly be expected to
women. (You
than a very few
Photo 6.3
flattering,
with the navy
As
flatter
more
our model
in
The level of contrast in Photo 6.4 is far

when the model wears a pale coral blouse
suit.)
damage
if the
how
being overpowered by the navy-and-white
is
"success" look.
more
can see
inflicted
on women's wardrobes by
the "dress for success" proponents wasn't bad enough,
along came
battery of so-called image consultants and
women even
of women ac-
color experts in the early 1980s to confuse
One
further.
whole universe
divides the
cording to the medieval concept of the four humors (sanguine, melancholy, choleric, and phlegmatic).
Others claim that
all
women
fall
into
one of four sea-
sonal categories. All "winters," for example, get the
same
when they are choosing

claim a woman's "season"
prepackaged set of colors to match
makeup. They
clothes and
also
indicates her "clothing personality"
whether
she's the
dramatic, sporty/natural, romantic, or ingenue type.
We
loudly disagree!
You
can't
lump
all
woman
expect each
women
into four categories
to be equally
and
enhanced by one of
four identical, prepackaged sets of colors.
Moreover,
colors
resort,
is
it's
myth
appropriate for
and
hmited number of
wardrobe, formal wear,
that only a
a basic
leisure wear, or for certain seasons or regions
of the country.
It's a
myth
that
women must
select colors
based solely on their hair color or personality type or age.
Only some
business attire
is
excepted, and
we hope
to
eliminate this one remaining taboo in the near future.
The Best You Can Be

your goal
with Color
to look sensational
all the time, the Color 1

how.
you
Whether you're a high-powered
professional woman or a housewife and mother, our advice to you is the same: To look and feel like that proverbial million dollars, you must find the shades and color
mtensities that compliment your unique natural coloring
If
concept will
and
stick
is
tell
with those colors as closely as possible no matter what.
Once you
discover your
sticking with
own
special
rainbow of
them won't be hard because
have looked better
your
in
colors,
you'll never
Suddenly your skin
life!
will
look clear and radiant, your hair will shine, your eyes will
sparkle,
warmer
a
your teeth will look whiter, your smile will be

you'll sec people gasping as you walk into
and
room.
The
life,
difference
is color.
Perhaps for the
you'll be dressing in a
way
first
that will
time
in
your
enhance rather
than detract from your natural body coloring.
Think of
it
is the most important

Color can not only com-
way. Color
this
factor in dressing effectively.
change your appearance and
pletely
powerful,
mood
but can exert
though subliminal, impact on the
mood
of
each and every person coming into contact with you.
Why?
Because
color creates your
first
visual impact.
Make no
more quickly than

any style or silhouette ever will. The color or colors
you're wearing and how well they work with your
natural body colors
will dominate the viewer's first impression more than any other aspect of your attire.
It is our goal to teach you to use color like a precision
instrument. We want to free you from all those inhibiting
color myths. We want to teach you not only how to dress
mistake about
it,
color attracts the eye
in the right shades to
ple's spirits.
how to
own and other peolearn how to use color
enhance your coloring, but
use color therapeutically, to
lift
And we want you
to achieve the kind of effect
your
to
on others
that will help
you
your personal and career goals.

Finding your own color type Muted, Gentle, Light-
realize
Bright,
COLOR WOXDERFUL
or Contrast
And
is
the
first
step in
making color
work
for you.
clear
your mind of old self-images and give yourself
it's a
big step.
It's
not always easy to

a
good hard
1
look. That's one of the reasons
associates are so
you with
good
at
what they do
why
our Color
they can look
at
But
if
objectivity and experience behind them.
you're ready to be honest with yourself, you too can take

that hard, objective look.
of
First
your
own
use the next chapter to determine
then,
all,
You might also take a peek at the

on color types in Part II to make
color type.
individual chapters
sure you're on the right track.
Then go
2. Walk through each body

Your Color
Color Chart (page
Chapter
to
taking notes on
you
go.
You
will
add to these notes
chapter on your color type in Part
The
rest
as
color,
23) as
you read
the
II.
fun and easy.
is
Read about Wardrobe Wizardry (Chapter 3) and Makeup

and Hair Coloring Magic (Chapter 4), and then go directly to
all
come
your
own
how
how
in Part
Make
II.
it
together!
Finally, learn
out
Coloramics chapter
to
how
to cast a color spell in Part
mix and match
III.
Find
for color chic (Chapter 9),
to dress for effect (Chapter
10),
and
how
to use
color magic to unclutter your closet and spare your pock-
etbook (Chapter
Our
11).
hope is that reading this book and studying the photographs will make you perceive color in a
new way, as a kind of magic that can transform you from
what you are into what you aspire to be. By following
the Color 1 principles, which are anything but restrictive,
you can prove to yourself that color is a magic wand.
Utilized correctly, they can make you look healthier,
slimmer, younger, more vivacious, and generally more
exciting and interesting.
Basing all your wardrobe and makeup decisions on
color first and foremost is the smartest aesthetic and financial move you'll ever make. Why? Because your best
colors are one of the few things that never go out of style.
greatest
Exploding
the
Color Myths
Part I
Color
Color Basics
Chapter
Your Color
Color Type
Finding your
own
Color
color type
is
the
step to
first
how
breaking out of color prison and discovering just
Color 1 concept can make you look.

No matter what your nationality or ethnicity, chances
are you fall into one of Color Ts fDur main color types:
terrific the
Muted, Gentle, Light-Bright, or Contrast. (Some people

are "cross-color types," but more on that later.) But
remember, these are only broad classifications. A multitude of people, all quite different-looking, coexist under
each color type.
Remember,
natural body
around your
type
is
based on your
too. that
your color type
coloring,
particularly the coloring in
face.
the shade of
Most important
in
is
and
determining your color
your skin; your natural hair color
is
only a
secondary indicator.
Because your body contains more of your skin color

than any other, your skin works as a background for
every other color you wear, whether

clothes,
it's
makeup, or jewelry. Any color
skin look dulled, sallow, grayish, or
color for you.
The
right color,
the color of your

that
muddy
makes your
is
the
wrong
on the other hand,
will
Your Color
Color Type
make your
fact, that's
lar
shade
skin look clear and
fits
Women
and blah.
glowing
times. In
at all
the ultimate test in deciding whether a particuinto your color spectrum.
sometimes complain that their skin looks pale

Or sallow and uninteresting. They may be
right,
but not because their genes dealt them
hand.
It's
jammed
because their closets and
Mother Nature never

the right color to
To
the
errs in
rest
coloramics will
most of nature's
shelves are
negative
cast.
Your
skin
her color schemes.
compliment the
born look. Color
make
makeup
with colors that give their skin
poor
is
of your natural-
show you how
to
gifts.
get a feel for the four color types, look at the color
plates 1-4,
which give you
classic
examples of each, Plate
which displays the range of skin tones, and Plates 6 and

which show Caucasian and black skin tones, respectively.
5,
7.
The
four color types and their personal color charts are
Each chart is based on

body coloring skin tone, hair, eye, and lip
colors. Remember, though, even if you are the same
color type as one of those models, the colors on your
own color chart will vary, since it's rare to find two
people who have identical coloring. In fact, when you
illustrated further in Plates 9-12.
the model's
stop and consider
all
the variables,
to-one shot that you and another
on
this earth
it
has to be
woman
million-
will ever arrive
with precisely the same natural color scheme.
Determining Your Skin Tone
Ascertaining the shade of your skin
is
the
first
order of
business in finding your color type.
There
it's
to
is
only one
way
to assess color accurately,
whether
the color of your skin or a piece of fabric, and that's
view
it
in daylight
(although you should not stand di-
rectly in the sun).
Obviously, to discover your skin's true color,
it
must
be free of any makeup. Incidentally, don't try to judge
removing your
makeup. Cleansing can cause pinkness or redness. Wait
until that flush has subsided and the natural color of
your skin has had a chance to reassert itself
the color of your complexion right after
12
COLOR WONDERFUL
Now, makeup
off? Are you standing in natural light?

good hard look at your skin tone in your face
and neck area and compare what you see with the sample
Then
take
skin-tone shades illustrated in Plates 5-7 and with the
Universal Skin-Tone Chart below.
Once you've decided which skin-tone shade

make a note of it on Your Color
scribes you,
Chart
best de1
Color
at the
beginning of Chapter
can't
overemphasize the importance of knowing
We
2.
your skin tone for choosing appropriate colors. We're

reminded of a client of ours who purchased a beautiful
brown
Soon
designer
after
suit,
buying
it,
exquisitely styled in a lovely fabric.
though, she realized the
suit didn't
look quite right on her but couldn't figure out why.
"How
can something that has everything going for
look so wrong on me!" she complained. The
suit
great disappointment because she'd spent a mint
We
were able
This
to
woman
tell
was a
on it.
her what went wrong:
has pink-beige skin,
which means she
needs to wear beiges and browns with
them. Unfortunately, her designer
suit
pinkish cast to
was golden brown.
Neither her skin nor her hair have any golden tone
them. As
it
in
brown suit didn't

coloring. The suit hung
consequence, the golden
any way to her natural

on her body, calling attention to itself rather than to her
own good looks, because it didn't pick up any of her
relate in
inherent color assets.
Your Color
Color Type
13
Universal Skin- Tone Chart

Race
Skirt
Tone
When you
tan.
you may look
different, but the basic
You
shade of your skin has only darkened, not changed.
may go from
a
clear,
golden camel
say, to a
pink-beige to
golden beige
light
the end of the
at
pink-camel. That
is,
in the spring,
summer, or from
of course, unless
you overdo it. But your basic skin-tone shade

same (as seen on the chart).
stays the
Determining Your Main Hair Color

and Highlights
Now
take the
your
skin.
same
Hair color
your hair
that
you did
at
never simply blond, red, brown, gray,
is
Everyone's hair contains
or white.
black,
close look at
one
least
at
highlight color: lighter or darker tones of your main hair

color; or perhaps totally different colors such as gold.
camel, bronze, or rust.
Your
hair color will ahvays be
one of the best colors to
repeat in your clothing or accessories because your natural hair
color
is
never unflattering.
If
you think
it is,
that's
because you haven't learned to match or showcase
it
properly.
important to be specific about the colors
It's
blond, for example, you
hair. If
you're
blond,
reddish blond
may
in
your
be golden
dark blond,
("strawberry"),
ash
blond, beige-blond, "champagne" blond, or white-blond
("platinum"). (Brenda, in Plate
While
It's
true that
all
3. is a
nation, often have several
golden blond.)
upon close examishades of color, you should pay
heads of
hair,
attention to the shade that predominates. If you're a blond,

for example,
do not study the hair near your
decide your true color. Instead, look

hair.
Ask
people
yourself,
who
look
at
at
scalp to
the outer layer of
"What shade is most apparent to

me?" (In Plate 10. Myrt has ash
brown hair with shght golden highlights.)

Red hair, too, comes in a multitude of shades: auburn,
bronze, cinnamon, copper, rust, pinkish rust, amber, and
red-gold.
red hair.)
(Plate 28
offers
good example
in
loAnn's
Your Color
Color Type
15
And then there's the ubiquitous brown. Are you ash

brown, which is brown with grayish highhghts? Chocolate brown, best described as a dark shade lacking apparbrown
ent ash. golden, or red highlights? Chocolate

actually the color
How
many
think of as
about golden brown, which
what
just
is
lights?
Plate
(In
medium brown
strong caramel highlights. Patti, in Plate
brown
Hghter
is
it
more
unmistakable red high-
its
Lin has
1,
Or
red cast?
name
"warm"
the
implies? Perhaps your hair color could be termed
brown because of its slight

intense reddish brown with
is
"true" dark brown.
2,
has
hair with
somewhat
hair with highly apparent golden
camel
highlights.)
Those of you with blackish-looking

have black-brown hair
that
hair that
often looks black. (Dolly, Plate
it
Or
hair.)
hair
such
is
4,
might actually
a
deep brown
has black-brown
does your black hair have reddish,
golden,
bronze, camel, or even navy highlights?
Gray
hair also
comes
many
in
shades: silver (see Plate
16), pearl (Plate 14), slate (Plate 13),
to
name some. When
all
or nearly
all
brownish, blondish,
the pigment
is
gone,
your hair looks white.
You
can see that those natural glints and streaks of
second and sometimes third colors that run through your
from blue-black
hair can range

rust,
blond and from bronze,
to
and red to shades of gold and camel. Sometimes
match your skin
these highlights in your hair actually

tone;
for example,
woman who
golden-skinned
has
medium brown hair with light golden blond highlights.

Once you've discovered not only your basic hair color
but your highlights, make a note of them on Your Color
1
Color Chart. Then look
Color Types
might fit in.
at the
at the
survey of the Four Basic
end of the chapter to see where you
Determining Your Color Type
By now
you're probably starting to get
color type
make
16
COLOR WONDERFUL
if
you
are.
You may even
sure you're on the right track
you're
still
puzzled
we
a feel for
which
be quite certain. Just to
or
want you
you going
perform a few
to get
to
tests
using yourself as the model. Fortunately, these
much
are as
fun as they are revealing.
finished, you'll
all
how
your color spectrum and find out
in
fill
And when
know your color type and be
Color
color basics to keep
you looking Color
tests
you're
all set
to
to apply
1-derful
the time!
all
The Pure White Test
Find an example of pure white
paper or
very white swatch of fabric.
some other top
or
white piece of
a stark
sheet, blouse,
will suffice for this experiment. Place
the pure white under your chin so that
it
covers your
shoulders completely. Frame your face in the mirror so
you can only
that
your face and hair and the pure
see
white.
Close your eyes for a moment, then open them. Now,

what do you see?
Perhaps you see a woman on whom the pure white
looks overly bright, harsh, and garish? If so, your coloring
is
either
Muted
or Gentle.
Women
with Muted color-
ing can never wear pure white. Those with Gentle coloring
can only wear
it
sparingly in a small print or as tiny trim.
(To understand this even better, look at Plate 27. Close

your eyes, then open them. Notice that your eyes keep
going to the pure white in this Muted model's outfit.
Then look
at
Photo
6.3.
Even
in
this
photo, you can see that the white blouse

this
black-and-white
is
too white for
Gentle color type.)
Or do you
see a
woman who
looks enhanced with such
amount of pure white next to her face (as in Plate

3)? If so, you have either Light-Bright or Contrast coloring. Keep in mind that to look absolutely superb, even
some women with Light-Bright or Contrast coloring need
to augment such a large splash of pure white next to their
a large
face
with
touch of a second bright color
(as in Plate 43).
The Woman-Across-the-Room Test

This
is
actually a series
length mirror in
robe items, which
of
well-lighted
we
Your props are a fullroom and various ward-
tests.
will describe.
Your Color
Color Type
17
Here is what we want you to do:

Wearing the designated outfit, stand with your back to
the full-length mirror. Walk four to six paces away trom
Glance at yourself quickly in the
it and turn around.
mirror as if you are looking at a stranger who has just
entered the room. Savor that first impression. Ask yourself
Do
Does
for
my
the outfit
an outfit?
rather than vice versa?

to the outfit?
appear too overpowering
too strong or too
coloring?
the other extreme
Does
me
comparison
face fade out in
the outfit
bright
at
in the t}iirror or just
the outfit seem to he wearing
Does my
Or,
whole wonuui
I see a
Does
make me
look drab or washed out from head
to
toe?
Does my
down
Does
Is
face
seem absolutely vibrant compared
colors
of the
toned-
appear weak and insignificant on me?
the outfit
my
to the
outfit?
natural coloring visually stronger than the outfit?
The first outtlt you test should be a dark suit ot black or

navy worn with matching black or navy shoes and a
pure white blouse.
When you
glance
yourself in this color combina-
at
does the stark white
tion,
Do
jump
out
your eyes become riveted
IS
you?
to this strong-contrast
o{ everything
outfit to the detriment

If the outfit
at
else?
prominent here and you fade
to insig-
you have Muted or Gentle colother hand, when you look in the mirror
nificance in comparison,
On
oring.
you may
the
woman who
see a
contrasting outfit.
trast
If
hair
is
fairly
dark but has golden tones in
be wondering
still
with
a large,
black slacks or
If the
mirror
overpowering
test
less-person look),
18
'
COLOR IVOSDERFUL
trast,
you
it.
you
are a Light-Bright or a
find out, put
on
or
a jacket
red-and-black lumberjack check and
black
for
if
To
Contrast color type.

shirt
can carry off this highly
with Light-Bright and Con-
coloring can.
your
may
Women
skirt.
convinces you this outfit
is
too
your coloring (giving you the head-
you
are a Light-Bright, not a
Con-
color type. (Check against Photos 7.3 and 8.6.)
For those of you
who
whether you have
can't decide
Light-Bright or Gentle coloring, here's
Don
some
blouse or
pattern or stripe comprised of
cented with
jump
white
look
a little
Photo
(as in
7.2).
to glance in the mirror, does the pure
out
you? Does the garment make you
at
or verywashed-out?
you
If so,
of pure white ac-
lots
bright second color
As you turn
a test:
other item of clothing with
On
are a Gentle color type.
the other hand,
you may have the opposite reaction and feel the top
makes you look alive and sparkling. In that case, you
are a Light-Bright color type.
Perhaps you've got your color type narrowed
down
to
Try this:
Gentle or Muted but you
Put on a blouse or dress with a small print. The print
should have a combination of a small amount of pure
white and toned-down pastel colors. (By toned-down,
can't decide which.
we mean
colors that have a touch of gray or
them. The opposite of toned-down
and bright
clarities
o{ colors. Look
shown
green, red, and blue

idea of
clarities
what we mean.)
mirror test shows
If the
at
brown
in
are clear
the clarities of
21-23 to get an
in Plates
the pure white
jumping out
washed out, you have

at you and
Muted coloring. If the pure white is fme and the print
does not look washed out, you have Gentle coloring.
Because your hair is fairly dark, you may be stumped:
the print looking
Do
have Muted or Contrast coloring?
To
soft
find out, try
on
white pattern, or
white with
second
If this color
large
5.1) instead of
Muted
coloring.
crystallize
(as
it
you wearing
Put on
will
If
does the model

it,
in
then you have
tests:
candy-striped blouse in which the bright red
and pure white

7.2).
black-and-
combining pure
what you've already discovered about
your coloring, take the following three
a large
print
clear, bright color.
combo wears you
Photo
To
garment with
you're
stripes are
a
on the small
look super on you.
It
will
look
Photo
side (see
Light-Bright color type,

all
this
blouse
right
with
Contrast coloring; too bright wath Gentle coloring;
and most unflattering with Muted coloring.
Your Color
Color Type
19
into a
Slip
small floral print of pastel blue,
yellow,
A woman with Gentle

this. Women with Light-
pink, and a touch of pure white.
coloring will look smashing in
coloring will look washed-out.
And
with Contrast coloring will look dulled
the
Bright or
women
Muted
ultimate in drab.
medium-scale batik print comprised of
find a
Finally,
medium and dark toned-dowti colors, say, blue, rust,

brown, and/or green. Such a print will look great on a
woman with Muted coloring, too heavy and dark on
a woman with Gentle or Light-Bright coloring, and a
touch too subdued on a woman with Contrast coloring.
The Judgment Test

This time, without any props,
common
let
your best judgment and
sense be the guide to your color type.
Answer
the following series of questions:
Overall,
is
If
you
my
coloni\^ dark
select dark
Does my
and
and
light,
lii^ht,
medium,
or li^^ht?
ask yourself,
coloring present a strong contrast because ofniy very
dark hair and lighter skin?
answer
If the
yes and
is
you can wear large-pattern
black-and-white clothes, you have Contrast coloring.

If
you
select
medium because of your medium-tone hair
of either red or brown, ask yourself,
Do
If the
have a brown-on-beige or red-on-beige look?
answer
yes to either of these questions and you
is
cannot wear pure white in any way, you have
Muted
coloring.
Do
have golden
tones in
my
glitits in
skin, giving
my
me
hair picking up on the golden

a
somewhat
bright but
medium
look?
If the
a
COLOR WONDERFUL
is
yes
atid
you can wear pure white, you are

Even if you have medium
now, many of you had much lighter brown

or blond hair as a child. If you have the same golden
brown
20
answer
Light-Bright color type.

hair
your hair and
glints in
golden brown-beige skin but are
enhanced by pure white, you have Muted coloring.
not
you
If
select light
and your
Do
light to
because of the light color of your hair
medium-Hght
skin, ask yourself.
have a gold-on-gold aura about me because oj
my golden
skin and golden blond hair?

If the
answer
is
yes and
you have Light-Bright
my
Is
you can wear
hair more ash or beige blond and
pinkish
If the
a lot
of pure white,
coloring.
my
skin
more ivory or
in cast?
answer
is
yes and
in a smaller print,
you
you can wear
pure white
a Httle
are a Gentle color type.
By now, most of you know into which of the four basic

you belong. To help you further, an overview
color types
is
offered in Color
I's
Four Basic Color Types below.
Cross-Color Types
Perhaps you've reached
you're
type. If this
people
this
point in our narrative and
not positive that you've identified your color
still
who
is
the case,
you may be one of
are cross-color types
that
is,
group of
your skin tone
into one of the four basic color types and your hair
falls
color into another.
For example, suppose you have golden-brown beige

skin and black-brown hair with rust highlights. This natural color
you may be a Muted/

Suppose, on the other hand, you
scheme would
indicate
have very slightly pink-toned skin and golden blond
hair.
Then you may have Gentle/Light-Bright coloring. Pinkbeige skin and medium brown hair with bronze highlights
may
indicate that
you
are a
Gentle/Muted color
type.
you are one of those women who

cross-color types? It means you will need to use a
What does
are
level
ity
it
mean
if
of contrast pertaining to one color type and the
of colors associated with another color type.
cover these two concepts
in
depth
in
Chapter
3.
We
clar-
will
Your Color
Color Type
21
Of course, knowing
your color type
As you regularly arrive

making process about how
stone.
at
only
is
stepping-
crossroads in the decision-
and combine
your color type and the universal wardrobe prinwe describe in Chapter 3 will serve as your guide to
best to select
colors,
ciples
looking fabulous 100 percent of the time.
The Four Basic Color Types

Skin Tone
Color Type
(without makeup)*
MUTED
brown
ivory beige,
(white)
Natural Hair Color
redhead; caramel,
beige, or golden
red, or
brown-beige
highlights in
bronze
blond or light to
dark brown hair
Overall
Look
beige-on-brown,
brown-on-brown,
or red-on-brown
appearance
medium
to
strong coloring
MUTED
light to
dark golden
brown
(black)
to
brown
to black
brown
brown-on-brown,
brown-on-black
medium
to
strong coloring
GENTLE
ivory or pink-beige
ash blond, ash
brown, or red
(white)
soft, subtle
appearance
delicate coloring
GENTLE
light
pink beige to
brown
to black
same
as
above
dark pink brown
(black)
LIGHT-BRIGHT
(white)
ivory or clear
golden beige
golden blond or
golden light to
medium brown
LIGHT-BRIGHT
clear
golden
brown
to black
true light
and bright
appearance
delicate coloring
same
as
above
(black)
CONTRAST
(white)
CONTRAST
(black)
*^For a detailed chart
ivory, olive, or
dark
brown
or black
light to dark very
with
little or no pink
or golden tones
clear tones
definite dark-light
appearance
strong coloring
clear beige
brown
to black
dark-light
appearance or
dark-on-dark
strong coloring
categorizing skin tones by color type, see the Universal Skin-Tone Chart on p. 14
Your Color
Color Chart
(for taking notes)
Color Type:
Body
Colors:
Skin:
Hair:
Highlights:.
Eyes:
Secondary Eye Colors:
Lips (Your Red):
Your Dark Neutrals:
Your Best White:
Your Gray:
Your Complimentary Colors:
Your Color
Color Type
23
Chapter 2
Your Color
Color Chart
Your personal
color spectrum contains
best color families
and perhaps
many
as
fourteen
at least
as
twenty-eight.
Seven to ten of them are the colors of your skin, hair,

eyes, lips, and fingertips
your natural color scheme. We
rcter to these as
"body
The remainder
ot
colors."
your best colors are your compli-
men-tary colors, your dark neutrals, your white, and your

gray. These are missing
coloring.
They
from
woman's
are equally important,
they compliment
natural
body
though, because
or enhance
all her body colors and
round out her personal color spectrum. Your complmientary colors look just as flattermg as
your body colors.
And combining your body and complimentary
colors,
dark neutrals, white, and gray widens your color horizons, creating a rainbow of new and exciting color
nations and adding
new
combi-
variety to your looks and clothing.
Altogether, then, your color chart will contain up to
twenty-eight best color families,
most enhancing
24
COLOR IVOXDERFUL
ter 3).
to
all
you (more on
the shades and clarities
this
below and
in
Chap-
For an example of
last
two
very
full
color chart, look at the
color plates (Plates 46-47), which
show
Jennifer
Ho, one of our San Francisco associates, and her actual

color chart. Note that Jennifer's Personal Color Harmony
Chart contains seven body colors and fourteen complimentary colors, three values of white, a gray, and three
dark neutral colors. Thus, her chart contains twenty-eight
colors in
all.
Before you go ahead and take notes on the
rest of your
you should know something about shades and
colors,
clarities,
two important
color concepts we'll be using a
lot.
Shades and Clarities
Every color comes

ple,
in a
can be brick red,
myriad o{
fire
shades.
Red, for exam-
engine red, Chinese red, rasp-
berry, burgundy, rose, orange-red, and so on.

In addition,
variety of
Clarity refers to the clearness or lucidity or purity
clarities.
of
each shade of red comes in
color
how
would
fall
at
stance,
and
distinctly
"red"
one end of the
it
really
is.
bright red
spectrum, for in-
clarity
toned-down or muted red containing
of brown or gray pigment would
fall at
examples of several different colors
in a
a lot
the other. (To see
range of
clarities,
turn to Plates 21, 22, and 23.)
How
you said, or heard someone say, "I

wear it because it doesn't look good
on me." This is not true. You can wear red! What you are
really saying is, "The shade and clarity of red that I
picture in my mind as true red does not happen to be the
one that looks good on me."
Think about it a moment. The term "red" actually covers a lot of territory on the color spectrum. The old
often have
love red but
can't
stereotypic notion that, as Gertrude Stein might have said,
"red
is
The
and
red
is
red"
fact
is
that there
clarity, that
tenet
of
all
is
just not true.

is
a red, in a
very specific shade
looks fabulous on you. This
of Color
I's
is
the basic
coloramics. (See Plate 28 for an
Your Color
Color Chart
25
example of a toned-down coral red and Plate 15 for an

example of a bright "true" red.)
Here is another example: Not everyone looks good in
kelly green. If you are someone who has worn that green
shade and reaHzed that it didn't do anything for you, you
might have jumped to the incorrect conclusion: "Green
isn't
my
color."
Not
so!
You
wear green
can
as well as
red, yellow, blue, blue-green, rust, coral, orange, purple,
brown, gray,
and navy
beige, white,
colors are in the specific shades and
provided
most
clarity
all
these
flattering
your natural coloring.

Color is an individual matter. Black is one color that
definitely does not enhance everyone, it's true. Still, there
are many blonds, redheads, and brunettes who look gloto
rious in black.
Viva
la difference!
Your Body Colors
In
Chapter
you determined your skin
and hair highlights and made
Color
at least three
matching your inner
Your
know
more if you were able to detect

Your other body colors will be your
of your body colors
squeezed fingertip
Your
note of them on
Color Chart. So you already
extra highlights.
red
color, hair color,
lip
color or that of your gently
and your eye
colors.
is your body's natural blood

you turn when you blush or flush. You
can see a very hght form of this red in the palms of your
hands, your fingertips after you squeeze them, and your
best shade of red
color, the color
lips.
That shade could range anywhere from
red at one extreme to a
Compare your
lip
matching color
to
shade
it is,
this red
shade you wear
One
Your Color
as
blush color and as
COLOR WONDERFUL
Her
the other.
at
your most basic
colors.
lipstick,
It's the
nail,
and
major staple of your wardrobe.
of our Washington, D.
her color chart.
very orange-
on Plate 8, and add the

Color Chart. Whatever
one of your very best
coloring and was dismayed

26
more blue-red
color to those
is
C,
when
best red
is
clients has
she
a soft,
first
very gentle
saw
the red
on
dusty rose. "I can't
in that color," she
be a devil
"Oh
And
yes you can!
Our
complained.
this red will
reply was,
be even more effective
because no one will suspect you."
would visually overwhelm this woman's gentle coloring. The bright red outfit would be the
only thing people would see. But by wearing the soft
rose red shade on her color chart she remains in control
A bright
red outfit
and looks beautifully
devilish.
Eye colors
and makeup
And when you
are terrific colors to pick
shades.
you'll be surprised at
human
all
up
you
the color
in
your clothing
good
take a
see.
It's
look,
the rare
being whose eyes contain only the Hght and dark
More
values of one color.
typically, the irises
of an indi-
The
vidual's eyes are the repository for several colors.
average person has anywhere from two to four colors.
Some have
many
as
as six.
(Note
how many
eye colors
appear on Jennifer's chart in Plate 47.)
Move
a
over to the
good, long look
window with
at
a hand mirror and take

your eyes. Those of you who think
you have brown eyes may

ally a rust color,
find that your irises are actu-
with yellow, gold, and orange
Or
glints.
perhaps they're rust with navy blue streaks running through

the
iris
Your
and
navy or purple-blue rim running around
brown
so-called
it.
eyes could also contain various
shades of green, purple, and plum.
The eye
known
combination of green, yellow, rust, brown, and sometimes blue,

blue-green, or bronze brown. The shade of green varies
from person to person. It could be a jade, emerald, lime,
mint, moss, or sage. Secondary colors in a hazel eye are
color
as
"hazel"
really a
is
various shades of blue, blue-green, yellow, orange-yellow,
bronze-orange, rust-orange, reddish
rust,
brownish
rust,
or bronze-brown.
Women
them
as
with blue eyes often have
yellow to
lemon yellow
blue-green eyes
ondary colors
a lot
of yellow
in
a teal
your
to
an apricot.
If
blue or turquoise blue
in
cream
you have
That yellow could range from
well.
the
sec-
irises are
probably other shades of
Your
blue eyes could also have
blue or green and yellow.
purple or rust flecks or streaks in them.
Even though the irises of your eyes may only contain

trace amounts of these secondary colors, it is important to
know what they are because certain shades of these colors
will look extremely attractive on you when worn as items
Your Color
Color Chart
27
as eye shadow. Take a good look, and

make notes of those colors on your chart.
Most human eyes have some form of yellow in them.
of clothing or
Include your best shade of yellow in your basic wardrobe.
Not only
will
it
enhance your skin tone,
it
will
bring out the yellow glints in your eyes, making them

absolutely sparkle. You'll love
ing
how
alive you'll
look wear-
it!
Your Complimentary Colors

Complimentary colors are the shades of colors other than
your body colors that are most enhancing to you. And
since each of your complimentary colors coordinate with
your specific coloring, they all coordinate with each other
and with the other colors on your chart, as we explain in
full in Chapter 3. If you hesitate to combine the colors in
your spectrum, consider it a failure of imagination
on your part. It is not that almost all

those glorious colors on your chart can't be worn together in handsome and, in some cases, exotic and un-
lack of color daring
usual combinations.
The number of complimentary colors on your chart

depends on two factors: (1) the variety of shades that are
already included in your body's natural color scheme (for
example, Jennifer Ho's chart in Plate 47 shows yellow in
her second eye color section. If there were no yellow in
of yellow would appear in

complimentary color section); and (2) whether two
different shades of the same color
a grass green and an
emerald, for instance are flattering next to your skin. If
both of these shades keep your skin looking clear, make
your eyes sparkle, and keep your hair looking alive, never
dull, they will both appear on your color chart.
For example, some of you will look great in as many as
five different shades of purple, perhaps a blued one, a
grape, iris, lilac, and a plum which is a reddish purple.
(Note how many purples appear on Jennifer's chart in
Plate 47.) If so, these colors should be on your chart.
As you think about all of the colors that may be complimentary to you, keep in mind the terms "shade" and
"clarity." Orange is often a complimentary color, but not
Jennifer's eyes, her best shade
the
28
COLOR WONDERFUL

necessarily in the shade
well with your natural
must show
generally
your skin
you may be picturing. To work

body coloring, the orange shade
when
hint of pink
placed next to
salmon color in the orange

family). This helps keep your skin glowing. Choosing a
shade of orange that has too much of a yellow orange or
pumpkin orange quahty can sallow or gray your skin.
The clarity of the color must be your best as well.
Since all ot your colors are unique to your coloring,
you can understand why your best green or blue or
purple might be a totally different shade than the best
example,
(for
shade for someone
of
illustration
this:
else
in
your same color type.
our Contrast models
in Plates 4,
An
12,
and 46 each have completely different skin tones. Because

of this, their "best" shades of any color may be entirely
different.
To help determine your complimentary colors, hold a

garment or piece of fabric up to your face in natural
daylight. (Use only material in your best clarities.) Then
ask yourself the following questions:
muddy my
1.
Does
the shade sallow, gray, or
2.
Do
look alive and glowing, fresh, and radiant?
3.
Does
the shade
compete with or
my
dull
skin?
hair color or
eye color?
4.
Does
does
the shade relate to

it
look
as
if
my
body coloring
natural
could wear
it
forever and look
great?
you can answer yes to #2 and #4, you are bound to

"compliments" when you wear that
shade and that's what "complimentary colors" are all
If
receive a lot of
about!
Your Best White

Every
woman
but not necessarily
can wear white
On some women, shghtly

"white" for them. On others, the
stark,
pure white.
off-white
right
absolute whitest
is
the
of whites looks striking in the best sense of the word.
Your Color
Color Chart
29
Again,
Two
depends on your body's inherent color scheme.

factors determine the best white for you: your
it
skin tone and your teeth color.
never be so bright that

It is
too bright
Photos
5.1,
if
5.3,
it
it
appears to
best white will
"jump off"
and Plate
6.3,
Your
looks glaring next to your skin.
27.)
the skin. (See
There
is
delicate
balance here. If you wear a white next to your face that
too bright,
your skin
your teeth
it
yellowed and
Every woman's
will look dull or
will be anything but enhanced.
white shade, whether
is
be almost pure white or an off-
white tone, looks "white" on her, not
creamy or
light
beige look, but white.

All the off-whites that fall between your best white and
your best lightest beige color are excellent colors for you
to wear as long as they are not too yellowish, brownish,
or grayed for your skin color.
You
should choose off-
whites that are progressively deeper tones of the white on
your chart and progressively lighter tones of your best

beige.
Your Gray
The
best gray on your color chart does not necessarily

match the gray your hair will turn. Why? Because when
your hair turns gray, the color is a mixture of white hairs
and your remaining brown, red, black, or blond ones.
Your best gray is the shade that enhances your skin color,
hair colors, and eye colors. Enhancing grays make your
skin look clear and vibrant, keep your eyes bright, and
will never appear to dull your hair. Grays that take on a
brownish cast when placed next to your skin are to be
avoided, as they will muddy and dull your complexion.
Grays that appear to have a hint of a blue-gray quality
will keep your skin clearer and more radiant-looking.
Your best gray shade, however, should not look like a
dusty blue on you.
The
feel
it
color gray
is
is
a controversial one.
COLOR WONDERFUL
it
as
basic
do without.
While it's true gray doesn't have any "color power" or
brightness, it can be subtly enhancing on all women as
neutral shade that they couldn't
30
Many women
drab and unexciting. Others see
worn
long
as
else,
gray affords an excellent backdrop for showcasing
it's
in the right
shade for them.
If
nothing
your other best colors. For example, your best shade of

gray combined with your best shades of green, blue,
blue-green, yellow, red, coral, and purple can create a
wonderfully handsome outfit. (See Plates 15 and 31.)
Your
best gray also
brown,
too, are
works well with other neutral shades

and navy provided they,
beige, camel, rust, white,
worn
in the best shades
and
The chapter on your color type

more about your best gray.
you.
clarities for
in Part
II
will
tell
you
Your Dark Neutrals

Dark
neutrals are the shades of navy, rust, dark greens,
dark plums, wine, and burgundies that are enhancing to
make
you. If black looks great on you,
with your other dark neutrals on your
To
note of it, along
chart.
be enhancing, your dark neutrals should not look
too heavy or dark on you.
Many
people
feel that
black
an extremely useful neutral color. However, black
becoming
dull
some
to
every complexion.
skin tones. If that
is
It
is
is
not
can sallow or gray or
the case, there are other
dark neutral colors that are more flattering, such
as
black-
brown, deep plum or grape, deep blue-green, deep green,

burgundy or wine, and navy. (For an example of a deep
grape dark neutral, see Plate 13.) A few of you will look
attractive in all of these dark neutral shades, including
black. Others will look super in just one or two.
How can you tell if black isn't one of your best colors?
By paying close attention to how you look in varying

amounts of black: black with a color accent at the neck;
black mixed in a print with other colors; black with a lot
of skin showing at the neck (a black V-neck sweater as
opposed to a black turtleneck, for instance). As you try
black in these various ways, ask yourself if you look
smashing, or just so-so. Are you being overwhelmed,
buried by the garment? Does your skin look clear and
glowing? Does a print that has your best colors as well as
black look as great on you as a print without any black in
it?
Your Color
Color Chart
31
you
If
a
can't
wear black, don't try

a string of pearls,
white accent
to fake
thinking that will solve the problem.
face,
it
say
let's
by wearing
your
near
It
won't.
The
of the matter remains: Black doesn't look great on
fact
you!
doesn't enhance you or relate to your overall
It
natural
body
change
that.
On
you can do
coloring, and there's nothing
to
complexion might be flattered by

much black is overpowering.
How do you know if a lot of black is overpowering?
Hold up a black garment or piece of black fabric to your
some
the other hand, a
even
black,
and look
face
if
too
in a mirror. If
the black because
it
your eye goes immediately
and dark, and your skin looks washed out, you

of black
is
to
looks overwhelmingly strong, heavy,
not flattering. For you,
know
a lot
will be necessary to
it
use black in sparing and delicate amounts. For example,
some women can wear pure

one of
have
black only with
their other colors near their face.
a lot
of skin showing for black to be
touch of
Others need to
effective.
Suppose your color chart does not have black
as a
dark
neutral and features instead navy, dark green, wine, bur-
gundy, or
colors are,
dark
teal.
No
matter what your dark neutral
you too might need
to accent
may look
Otherwise, you
cially true at night.
them with
This might be espe-
light or bright color near the face.
dulled or
visually overpowered.
Again, some of you will find you look best using your
dark neutral colors sparingly, perhaps with neck and shoulder skin showing so the dark color
your
face.
Or you might combine
it
not right next to
is
with your other best
you might wear a dark neutral skirt,

garment in a patterned fabric of that
colors. For example,
pants, or suit, or a
dark neutral and your other best colors.

Find out more about black and
and
how
they
fit
into
COLOR WONDERFUL
the other neutrals
your color spectrum by reading the
chapter on your color type in Part
32
all
II.
Chapter 3
Wardrobe Wizardry
Universal Color Principles
In this chapter
we
will introduce
you
to the color con-
cepts that are crucial to looking smashing in the clothes
you wear. You will note there is nothing occult or gimmicky about our Color 1 principles. Our personal enhancement program is based on objective principles of
aesthetics, not unlike those associated
art
with various other
forms.
There are three color concepts you will be using over

and over again in putting together sensational outfits:
shade, clarity, and value.
The first of these, shade, you already know about.
Shade
of
refers to the various versions
example, there
is
fire
a single color.
engine red and there
is
For
cherry red.
These are two different shades of the single color red. As

we've already said more than once and as we'll repeat
again before this
book
is
every
through
woman
can
wear every color, providing she chooses a flattering shade.

(Go back to Chapter 2 for a quick refresher on this.)
Filhng in your color spectrum is a matter of finding the
right shade of each color for you. Many women will find
Wardrobe Wizardry
33
more than one shade of
color that clicks with their
coloring.
By
we mean
clarity
the purity of
how
color,
distinctly
There are four levels

of clarity; intense, bright, toned-down, and subdued. Your
skin color will determine which clarities are right for you.
Every woman has her own set of "bright" colors on
her chart, whether they are intense, bright, toned-down,
red or blue or yellow or green
is.
it
Muted
when worn,
or subdued. For example, a toned-down red on

color types gives
looking just
"bright red" appearance
red clarity does on
To
on
as bright
a
Muted
color type as an intense
get an idea of intense clarity, picture the strongest
reds, yellows, blues, greens
you've ever seen. Sometimes
Sometimes they're
these are called pure pigment colors.
But garish they
called garish.
worn by women with
On
most
women
with Contrast coloring, intense
There are
look fabulous.
are not provided they are
the right coloring.
few
women
with Muted/
Contrast and Light-Bright/Contrast coloring
wear them. (Note the
clarities
who
can also
intensity of the colors in Plate 35.)
Bright clarity describes the vibrant colors. Picture jewel
tones
clear
and vivid, but not overly strong. Technically
these are pure
them
lighten
pigment colors with
just a bit, keeping
a little white added to

them vibrant but taking
the edge off their mtensity.
Light-Bright and Contrast color types revel
Muted/Contrast and
clarity.
in
(ientle/Light-Bright
bright
color
types are also enhanced by them. (Note the brightness of

the colors in Plate 32.)
Toned-down
clarity
dued. Think of
has
as
it
appears neither bright nor very sub-
middle-of-the-road.
small touch of
brown
or gray
is
Any
a
color that
toned-down
clarity.
Needless to say,
level
of
Muted
slightly
all
color types can safely wear this
still look good. However, Gentle and

fmd them most enhancing. (Note the
toned-down quality of the colors in Plates 9 and
clarity
and
color types
18.)
Subdued
clarity
does not just mean pastels.
pure pigment color that has enough
ment added
34
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
quality.
to
completely remove
brown
its
Picture a
or gray pig-
intense or bright
Given the
ity
is
not
is
clarity level
dull
right
background, one thing
dull,
hi fact,
lovely and alluring
is
subdued
clar-
the right person, this
the exact opposite of
and drab!
Many women
this
worn on
with Muted and Gentle coloring wear
clarity effectively.
Light-Bright and Contrast color
types generally look washed-out
when
they don these
softened tones. (Note the subdued quality of the colors in

Plates 13, 14,
and
31.)
For illustrations of
21,
22,
all
the clarity levels, review Plates
and 23, which show three
distinct
clarities
of
green, blue, and red.
Every woman, no matter what her color

certain
amount of
and radiant.
to look healthy
ever wear
her,
Ideally,
nor should she wear
When
order
in
woman
no
color that looks pale or dull or
overpowering.
type, needs a
wears
clarity in the colors she
should
washed out on
color that's too bright or
you're wearing the right shades of
color in the right clarity and intensity for you, both the
you will glow. The colors and you will look

you belong together.
Here is our rule of thumb: If a color looks dull or dusty
on you, then you need to wear a clearer clarity, but not
colors and
like
necessarily a bright or intense clarity.

if a
On
the other hand,
you look
color looks so bright next to your skin that
drab, then
you should be wearing
more toned-down but not
Remember our
It's
color that
woman
motto: Every
ors in the spectrum.
slightly
is
necessarily subdued.
the shade
and
can wear
clarity
of the
all
col-
colors she
wears that matter.
Our
third key color concept
is
value, that
is,
a color's
The lightest values of a color are

The deepest values are termed dark
darkness or lightness.
often called pastels.
colors.
Those
colors.
We
its
in
between
are,
of course, medium-value
have reproduced an example of
a coral
different values in Plate 24. Also, Plate 47
red in
shows
Jennifer Ho's colors in their light and dark values.
all
of
You
combining light and dark values in

the section to follow on levels of contrast and in the
chapter in Part II for your specific color type.
will learn the rules for
Wardrobe Wizardry
35
Through
Striking the Right Balance
Contrast Levels
No
one can take
of their best colors and wear them
all
any old which-way. Even though you may know

your best shades and clarities, you must know which
just
colors can be
which need
at
worn
an all-one-color look, for example,
in
and which cannot be combined
to be accented,
all.
Knowing what level of contrast (which dark, light, and

medium values of your best shades) you should wear is
important because it tells you the best way to combine all
those beautiful colors on your color chart. Any woman
who
wants
concept. In
that
it's
to look her best
firm grasp of this
she must understand
fact,
so thoroughly
it
second nature to her.
In the
Color
we
concept,
medium, and
contrast: strong,
blended look. Plate 25
What is
two
must have
deal with three levels o{
soft
the
latter
being
more
illustrates these three levels.
what the words imply

opposed
to each other in terms of their relative lightness and
darkness the lightest value combined with the darkest
the
a strong contrast? Just
colors being
combined
are diametrically
The
value.
colors black and white create the strongest
contrast imaginable, do they not?
Or
off-white?
tions are
all
dark
How
about navy and
brown and white? These combina-
strong contrasts.
And
they are the only strong
contrast combinations in our color concept. (See Plate 25.)
What
site
is
of
strong contrast.
soft contrast (or
light beige
two
relative lightness
two
The exact oppoThe most obvious example of a

blended look) is white combined with a
a soft contrast or blended look?
light values
combined.
and position
in the color
colors are close.
You would
you juxtaposed
of any two light colors
effect if
can also be
worn
COLOR WONDERFUL
also get a soft contrast
place next to one another
combination
creates a blended look.
(in
To
(As in
the middle on the light-dark
together in certain
ate a soft contrast look.
36
terms of their
spectrum, these
pastels because the
Photos 6.6 and 7.1.)

Colors of medium value
scale)
In
ways
illustrate this
to gener-
for yourself,
two medium-value
colors that
on the color spectrum,
are close
blue-green with
with
medium
medium brown.
medium
for example, a
medium-value
green; or a
Together, they create
rust
con-
a soft
trast effect.
The same
true of dark colors that are close to each
is
other on the color spectrum. For instance,
combined with
worn with
dark purple or
dark purple will give you
dark blue
dark red
soft contrast or
blended
look.
A soft contrast look is also generated when a pastel is

worn with a medium-value color from the same color
family when you mix light blue with a medium blue,
let's say. Do the same with a dark blue and a medium
blue. Again,
Finally,
you've got
combine
blended look.
medium-value color from one color
family with a light color from
color family that's near
it
on the color spectrum. A classic case is the combination

of pale lavender and a medium grape purple. Do the same
with a medium-value color and a dark color that are close
on the color spectrum, like a medium-value coral with a
rust. That, too, gives you a soft contrast look.
What
is
medium
contrast? All the levels of contrast that
not extremely strong or very soft
are
category
the
combination of
values, of dark values with
dium
values,
and
light values
medium
values,
hght value with
fall
with
into
this
medium
of two me-
dark value other
than black/white, navy/white, or dark brown/white.
hght yellow combined with
of
this look.
with
from
it
medium
to
medium
gray
is
an example
been combined
pastel (the yellow) has
value of a color (the gray) that's far
away
on the color spectrum.
The combination of
deep lavender
that
same color
a pastel
with the darkest value of
for example, light lavender placed next

is
also a
medium
Other medium contrast looks
contrast look.
include: a pastel
com-
bined with any dark color, including black (see Plate
13);
worn with a dark brown; a pale pink worn

with a dark blue; or two unrelated medium values together, say, a medium blue-green with a medium coral.
(See Plate 28.) Another medium contrast combination is a
medium value of one color worn with the dark value of a
a pale
blue
totally different color (as in Plate 37)
red
combined with
medium-value
dark blue-green, for instance.
Com-
Wardrobe Wizardry
37
billing
two dark
colors
from widely disparate color fami-
say a wine with a forest green, creates a
lies,
medium
contrast effect.
white or off-white combined with any
Finally, there's
dark tone of any color except black, navy, or dark brown.
An example
While such
a
is
worn with your
very dark red
may
dark-light combination
great deal of contrast,
it is
best white.
appear to have
not too strong
contrast for
any color type. Such dark-light combinations are certainly less strongly contrasting than black, navy, or dark
brown combined with white or off-white.

call them medium contrast combinations.
That's
why we
mentioned above create a meall women, no matter what

can wear. But strong contrast and soft
All the combinations
dium
contrast look
their color
je,
look
contrast looks are a different matter. In Part
II you will
which contrast levels are most enhancing on you,
depending on your color type.
learn
Universally Enhancing Colors
There Are a
It's a
good thing
airlines
their
Few
there are some.
how would
Otherwise
choose uniform colors that look attractive on
flight
attendants?
How
gowns
would prospective
all
brides
one color?
In the one case, a well-known airhne has put its attendants in khaki. Khaki is an unbehevably bad choice beselect bridesmaids'
cause
it
isn't
in all
truly enhancing to anyone's complexion.
Certain color types can wear

right next to any skin tone,
better than others, but
it
it is
indifferent at best. True,
khaki can be combined with other brighter colors to
make
it
that. In
more
worn with
rate
done
blackish navy suit
acceptable, but this airline hasn't even
another case, an airline chose

a stark
white
shirt.
high on the authority
This contrast level does
scale,
but
it
is
too strong
dark-hght combination for more than one-half of its
flight
attendants.
Two
38
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
medium
very attractive colors on most people are the
values of blue-green
that
is,
and pink-
turquoise
toned corals. They appear on almost every chart
and
specific shade
in the
clarity best for the individual (see Plates
39 and 41).
As we've pointed out repeatedly, for a woman to look

her most enhanced, each color she wears must be in the
best shade and clarity for her and her alone, because no
two individuals are exactly alike. However, when a compromise
there
is
is
necessary as in the case of corporate uniforms,
medium
no matter what
level
of clarity that works on
all
women,
their coloring.
example of navy
Let's take the
blue.
It
is
difficult to
describe shades of navy blue because most people think
navy blue is simply navy blue. Not so. Color 1

Associates works with eighteen different navies. To pinpoint a shade and clarity of navy blue that is most universally enhancing, we would say to stay away from a royal
navy blue, with its slight purple cast, and select a more
typical medium dark nautical navy, one that has a little
that
more yellow
in
it.
Of course, with a deep color like navy blue, there is

one more consideration: contrast level. To look good on
the most number of people, this navy blue must be incorporated in
medium
trast outfit. In
contrast rather than a strong con-
work
other words, to
for every
Muted and
Gentle color type, navy must be combined with

beige or
pastel instead
a light
of white. Contrast and Light-
Bright color types can effectively vêar their navy shade
with their white, and
many
color types can also wear
The most
call
Contrast and Light-Bright
pure white with their navy.
universally enhancing green
too intense nor too dusty-looking

12).
is
what people
"emerald green," but an emerald green that
is
neither
(as illustrated in
This emerald green has just enough blue in
work on
Plate
to
it
the vast majority of people. This cannot be said
for kelly greens,
Hme
greens,
moss
greens, and
all
the
other green shades. Diligently avoid the yellow-greens

that
have
lime tone to them. They are anything but
universally enhancing.
The
best purple for the greatest
number of people
the effect of equal parts of red and blue in
medium-value
Plates 10
color.
and
has
is
(Note the blouses on our models
in
and 37.)
The whites we recommend

whites
it
those with very
are the off-whites
little
and creamy
yellow, brown, or gray in
Wardrobe Wizardry
39
them
the blouse in Plate
(like
14).
universally enhancing because
Pure white
is
not
looks too bright and
it
overwhelming on many people,
particularly those with
Muted coloring.
Burgundy is another color to eschew in your search for
a color that looks good across the board. And burgundy
isn't the
only one that
brown, and gray
Why?
people to wear.
off limits.
is
Many
shades of beige/
are equally difficult for a
broad range of
Because the shades aren't the exact
ones that relate to an individual's coloring. The
wrong
shades of these colors, for example, will sallow or
muddy
the complexion and bring out lines under the eyes,
make
short, they can
woman
look drab,
tired,
ill,
hi
or
older.
The most
universally enhancing beige
beige nor a golden-beige

It
must be
"clear,"
it
meaning
that
brownish, or yellowish cast to
is
neither a pink-
somewhere
falls
it
it.
in
cannot have
between.
a
grayed,
Brownish beiges
are
often called "tan" and grayed beiges referred to as "taupe."
Both
ot these shades are
seldom enhancing
color. Beiges with a yellowish cast are
to
any skin
sometimes
called
"ecru," but garments described as ecru in color should be
considered individually
beiges,
may
and
some
are
not truly yellowish
be flattering to some individuals.
Color Camouflage: Dealing

with ''Figure Faults''
We disagree with much of the conventional
thinking on the
subject of camouflaging so-called figure faults.
While
we do
you can use color and design to

look, we do not believe you should try
believe
improve your total
to hide a fuller figure
and dresses styled

or thin
ought
behind small patterns, dark colors,
like tents.
to accept
Women tall
or short, heavy
and work with the things they
cannot change, or are not willing to change, about their

bodies.
And
if
they dislike
40
COLOR WONDERFUL
that instead
they can and want to change the things
lose weight, for
example
they
should do
of resorting to clothing camouflage.
The
truth of the matter
styhng trickery
body type
So
on
if
into a
is this:
No amount
going to transform
is
Mia Farrow.
It's
poundage, and exercise
your weight. It takes time and

you want a certain look, it's worth it.
tribute
The advice
women
offered here
with
few
certain optical illusions.
the
meant
just not
to be.
looking svelte happens to be one of your goals, go
a diet, lose that extra
those
of color or
Shelley Winters
knowing use of
will
power, but
specific figure
problems achieve
believe that color
and dark values of
light
if
merely intended to help
is
We
to redis-
that
is,
woman's
best shades
is the ideal way to create what art directors
and designers refer to as "a balanced look." And a balanced look is the greatest way anyone can deflect attention away from a figure problem. Our advice concerns
the placement of your best colors on your body to mini-
mize, but not eliminate, various types of perplexing "figure faults."
Advice for Women Who Think

They're Too Heavy
You remember
ing;
the shibboleth:
Hght or bright colors
pounds.
If
Would
you believe
woman
this,
Dark
call
clothes are slenderiz-
attention to those extra
please
answer these questions:
dressed in dark colors look larger or
smaller standing in front of a light background?
Are most of our background colors

stered furniture,
woodwork,
(i.e.,
etc.) light
We'll wager you answered the
first
walls, uphol-
or dark?
question "larger"
and the second "light."

Most other books overlook the fact that the majority of
office and home interiors are done in light colors
off-
white and
pastels.
So
if
you
really
want
subject of color camouflage in depth,
to
go into the
you must take
into
consideration the effect your clothing's color values will
have against lighter backgrounds.
When
heavier
woman
wears dark clothing to "hide"
her weight, she's not hiding anything
when
she
is
viewed
against a lighter background. In fact, her dark clothing
Wardrobe Wizardry
41
emphasizes her
size
because her figure
clearly outlined
is
However, when this woman wears darker

viewed against a dark background if she
can fmd one the configuration of her body would be
for
to see.
all
clothing and
is
hard to detect.
Our
women who want
advice to
follow the Color

their coloring
to appear thinner
women
Associates dictates for
We
and forget the mythology.
individual of whatever shape or size
wearing color shades and
is
to
with
feel that
an
most enhanced by
of contrast, and
is
clarities, levels
pattern sizes specific to her color type.
By
following the
woman
rules for her color type, a full-figured
is
going to
look more fabulous than she could possibly look by
at-
tempting some form of color camouflage.

words, whether you
In other
weight,
or short, your color type
tall
The
and looking wonderful.
overweight or under-
are
is
the key to dressing right
rules that apply to
your color
type are the main factors to keep in the forefront of your
mind
at all times.
Recite
standing in front of
what
to
own
them
buy or when you
closet
the items
Having
back
to yourself
rack of clothes in
home
when you
are standing in front
how
deciding
to
are
store deciding
of your
mix and match
you already own.

said that,
we
can
make
few concrete sugges-
tions:
Any woman who wants
to create the longest,
be aware that certain
in
(Any elongating monotone look,
color look.
tallest
one color from head to toe. Just

styles can sabotage even an all-one-
look possible can dress
incidentally,
includes your stockings and your shoes. But please,
opaque stockings unless your

it's
high fashion look that
If
you
are
wearing
outfit
is
calls for
no
extremely casual or
them.)
solid-colored suit, a blouse in a
contrasting color won't disturb the basic vertical line of
your monotone
or necklace
You
and
in
outfit.
can also wear
a skirt
contrasting jacket
so people
who
Nor
will a
neck accessory
a scarf
an appropriate color (see Photo 8.4).
look
at
a matching top
you leave the jacket open
or slacks with
j?rot^/ê(^
you can
see the vertical all-one-
color look toward the center of your
body
(as in Plate
34).
42
COLOR WONDERFUL
If you have Gentle coloring, choose any of the shades

on your color chart for your all-one-color look. A woman
with Muted or Contrast coloring, on the other hand, is

better off if she creates her
monotone look
value of one of her best colors.
with light hair can use either the lighter or
on her
in
medium
a.
Light-Bright color type
medium
values
while those with Light-Bright coloring and
chart,
medmm
darker hair should stay with the
values of their
best colors.
vertically striped dress also creates a long line. Just
make
sure the stripe
and
in the right scale, colors,
is
level
of contrast for your color type.

Appropriate pattern
women
The conventional wisdom

shouldn't wear big.
anyway,
Contrast coloring
states that full-figured
bold prints.
women
Since Contrast color
can wear large,
bold
woman
with
use a full-figured
let's
some contro-
are concerned.
women who
types are the only

patterns
source of
size is the
versy where tull-figured
an example of what to do and not
as
to do:
Small patterns on
how
matter
her justice.
is
size. It's
make
woman
with Contrast coloring, no
might
large or overweight she
small print (unless
accented with
her
be, will not
bright color) isn't going to play
going to play
down
do
has strong contrast and
it
down
her natural coloring and
her look drab, washed-out, insignificant, and dull.
At the other extreme, a large expanse of a jumbo-sized

print might not be flattering to a very heavy woman
but for a different reason: There just may be too much of
It.
The overall
Having said
effect can
gowns
that
their best colors.

it's
we can recall instances when we've

women with Contrast coloring in floor-
that,
dressed tull-figured
length
be overpowering.
had
These
large,
women
high contrast patterns in

all
got rave reviews. But
important to emphasize that besides the
mentioned, the gowns had something
details
else in
we've
common
styling.
The
gowns helped
to balance
the
figure and create an illusion of length,
which the
full
women
overall lines of the
needed.
In dealing with separates,
where on her body
Contrast color type chooses to wear
heavier
large pattern
is
crucial.
Let's say a full-figured
wants
to purchase a pair
But
the
if
could
call
sized plaid
woman
with Contrast coloring
of plaid
slacks.
bottom half of her body
is
She loves
attention to this fact. Consequently, a
would be
better.
plaid.
big, a large plaid
medium-
She could even wear
a pair
of
Wardrobe Wizardry
43
with
slacks
small plaid provided the plaid
is
highly
contrasting one.
And
she
the rest of her outfit?
would wear
On
the top half of her body,
solid-colored top that picks up one of
the colors in her plaid pants.
This same
body
woman
might tlnd it more flattering to her

and plaid on her body. She
solid-colored base
a skirt and a matching
to reverse the solid
might wear a
top
and over
with
it
unconstructed jacket or
a loose,
a large plaid.
Medium-sized
worn by everyone. And
be
patterns,
a shirt
of course, can
full-figured Contrast color
types can always wear large patterns in blouses and scarves.
Again, the blouse's styling

Traditionalists
believe
is
important.
that
woman
with
fuller
no matter what her coloring, should always

wear dark colors on the top half of her body and lighter
colors on the bottom half And that a woman with big
hips and a smaller bustline, should do the reverse.
bustline,
We
couldn't disagree more.
We
say
it's
not
question
of where you place the dark and light colors on your

body, but how you balance out
outfit
In short,
your
the dark
and
light colors in the
on your body.
outfit
the key. If
no matter what your perceived figure fault,

must be balanced and harmonious. Balance is
a woman with a full bustline wants to wear a
light- or bright-colored blouse, fine
provided, ot course,
she sticks with her best colors and clarity. All this
has to do to look great
to
is
make
her
touch of her bottom color

to the top part
the
of her
bottom color
in
outfit.
44
COLOR WONDERFUL
skirt or pants color
She does
an accessory,
eye-catching pair of earrings.
woman
sure that she brings
this
a scart,
up
by repeating
or beads, or an
Chapter 4
Makeup and Hair

Coloring Magic
Universal
Makeup
Every once
while one of the women's magazines runs
in a
an article about
able to
base,
how
wear before,
Principles
wear colors you've never been

of makeup
to
especially different shades
with the idea that
will effectively
this
extend the
range of colors that look good on you.

If
you've found
exactly, don't change
base that matches your skin tone

it
no matter what advice pours out
of the fashion columns. Should
beauty editor or cos-
metics sales clerk exhort you to wear
foundation
in the evening,
that duplicates
different color
don't do that either.
your skin tone
is
base
always the most enhanc-
ing any time of day or night and under
all
conceivable
lighting conditions, even in television studios. Granted,
candlelight
less
may make your wrong
obvious, but
if
foundation "mask"
your escort should happen to see you
wearing that off-color base

He'll probably be alarmed.
in
normal
light,
be forewarned.
Makeup and Hair Coloring
45
One
ot our associates has a client,
who
fifties,
fDundation
had spent her whole
woman
wearing
in
a
her
dark
attempt to mask her freckles. This
in a valiant
woman was
life
so determined to
look natural that she carried
it
make
her too-dark base
down
her throat and be-
hind her
ears.
The base
did not look natural and never
Unfortunately, her efforts were in vain.
would because
it
did not match her skin tone.
Our
associate finally convinced her client to accept her
freckles
and wear foundation that matched her
light skin
The idea came as a revelation to this attractive

woman. Today, she looks like Mother Nature intended
tone.
her to look instead of like
heavily
made-up mannequin.
Please accept this as gospel: Your base must match the skin
tone on your neck exactly.
your
face.
Foundation does not add color to
The purpose of foundation
look of a smooth, even complexion.
is
It
to provide the
should be
sheer
covering for your face that gives your face and body that
It is literally the foundation upon which
you apply color to your face. That color comes in the
form of eye shadow, blush, and lipstick.
all-one-color look.
Choosing the Right Base
for
Your Complexion
Your foundation should be the same color as your skin.

Review the color chips in Plate 5 and take notes on Your
Color 1 Color Chart. When you go to the store, take the
lid off the bottle and look directly at the makeup base. If
the product looks too pink, put the hd right back on and
return the product to the sales clerk.
It's
However, if it looks close

shade, by all means give it a try.
for you.
To
test a
inside of
not the right base
to
your skin-tone
foundation's color in a store, put a dot on the
your arm
back of the wrist
(just
area.
under or below your thumb)
Why
in the
here? Because in other places
on your forearm, inner arm, and hand your skin tends to

be its palest or darkest. But in the area below- your thumb
you should find the closest match to the exact tone of
your neck. To make sure, hold your arm up to your neck
and look
in the mirror in natural daylight. If the skin tone

of your neck and that part of your arm don't happen to
match, you'll have to test foundation directly on your
46
COLOR WONDERFUL
neck.
No
in.
matter where you place the dot of base, don't rub
Just
how
let it
closely
perform
it
it
on your skin while you evaluate

matches the tone of your skin. You should
there
sit
this test in natural daylight. If the
makeup
dot of
and your skin tones on your inner wrist match, then try
another dot of foundation on your jawline and on your
The base shade will match your skin so well that

you could dab it on a blemish and that blemish would
neck.
appear to vanish.
Here
are
available
Many
few more
tips
choosing
for
bases sporting
names with
actually have a lot of pink in them.
labeled "ivory" usually have the least
choosing
among
the
commercial foundation products:
a base,
let
your eye. not
clerk or the product's
the
word "beige"
bases
In contrast,
amount of
pink. In
high-pressure sales
name, be your guide
as to
what
matches your skin tone exactly.
The
that
a
hardest foundations to find are light ivory shades
have
touch of brown-beige or golden-beige.
thorough search you
bottle,
mix
can't find
the contents of
takes to get
it
two
what you want
together.
Do
If after
in
one
whatever
it
right.
you have pink tones in your skin but

are extremely fair and all bases seem too dark, try mixing
the lightest beige you can find with a light ivory and keep
testing your concoction on your skin until you get it right.
For example,
When we
if
developed our
foundation colors in the
own makeup
full
line,
we
created
range of skin tones from the
Our Color 1 makeup

line has fourteen different shades, including many that are
difficult or impossible to find elsewhere. Even though we
lightest ivory to
have
to
this spectacular range,
mix two shades
Exceptions
to
deep golden camels.
to the
''Correct"
Women who
may want
some of our
Rule: If You
have
Have
have very angry-looking red blemished skin
to use a "toner" to help ease the redness. In
neck because
still
still
Your Complexion
other cases, the skin on the face
should
clients
to get their perfect color.
it
is
sensitive. In
is
a little
pinker than the
such instances,
match her foundation
to the skin tone
woman
on her
47
when appHed
neck, which,
down
to the face,
will help tone
the sensitive pinkness or redness.
There are
special greenish
market designed especially

conditions.
To
toners.)
to
cancel out adverse skin
(These are often called mint and lavender
you would apply

mint toner on any blotches.
cancel out that angry red
under your foundation
Someone
and purplish toners on the
else
might need
to apply the lavender toner to
brownish patches on their skin.

The catch with toners is that they must be applied
very lightly or you may have to adjust your makeup base
to a shade darker than your natural skin color in order to
cover the toner color completely. As a consequence, you
are liable to look very heavily made-up, resulting in the
mask effect, which is not attractive. Thus, if you feel you
must use a toner, apply it very lightly for the sheerest
possible coverage. Then apply your makeup base, in the
shade that matches the skin on your neck, over your
entire face. Again, the watchwords are "light," "even,"
and "sheer."
cancel out very golden or
What
Very
Difference
Does
Tan Make?
Httle.
lot
of
women
don't understand the fact that
when
they tan their skin just becomes
a darker version of its

normal shade. For instance, if you have a golden-ivory
complexion, with a tan you will look a golden-camel
color. If you have pink-beige skin, a tan will give your
skin more of a pink-camel tone or a red-tone brown.
For
eye,
this reason,
the clothing colors and her best
and blush colors
woman
tanned stay exactly the same
as
can wear
when
she
when
lip,
she's
isn't.
you need only two foundations to achieve

the perfect base color, whether you are in the process of
building a tan or in the process of fading. One must
match your skin at its fairest. The other should match it
at its darkest. When your skin is at an inbetween color
stage, you simply mix the two foundations until you
If
you
tan,
achieve the right tone.

Incidentally,
48
COLOR WONDERFUL
when you mix your
darker tan base with
by pouring the
liquid
one bottle into another. Rather, mix the two
in the
your
lighter base, don't
do
it
from
palm
of your hand every time you use
Some women
final note:
match
their
makeup
Obviously,
it.
how
proportions will change depending on
tan
you
the
are.
tan very dark. In order to
deep tan shade, they
may need
move
to
into a
base product line created especially for darker
skin tones.
Of
many women when
course,
don't feel the need to wear any foundation

their tan
is
they're tan
when
at all. It's
fading that they do.
What may change because of a deep
tan
is
way you
the
choose to combine your clothing colors.
Many women when
tan prefer to dress in the darker or
brighter colors on their chart, whereas without a tan they
may
gravitate
feel the bright

it
toward
their
They
making
tones.
women
look deeper. Conversely, some tanned
wear
their palest colors
They
feel the lighter
it
more medium
or dark tones accentuate their tan,
more
for a
prefer to
contrasting effect.
make
shades showcase their tan and
look darker.
These are simply examples of how many of our

choose to use their colors when they're
tan.
matter of personal opinion and preference.
We
to be as
adventurous
as
they
are. Just
remember
clients
It's
all
want you
to follow
the rules for your color type concerning appropriate levels
of contrast.
Your Skin Tone and Aging

Many women
color as they
mistakenly think that their skin tone changes
grow
older and start to gray because of the
between
altered juxtaposition
Now
and complexion.
they're puzzled.
The
when
their
changing hair color
they look in the mirror,
visual effect
is
different
from the one

As a
they projected before they started to turn gray.
consequence, they
may
think they look
more washed-out
or pale or sallow than they used to look, and they don't

like
it.
For
this
reason they assume they can no longer
wear the colors they
associate with their
younger days.
Quite the contrary. Your color type only changes under one condition:
if
your skin tone changes. Your skin
tone might change for
few reasons,
for
example, be-
cause you have permanently sun-damaged skin or are
undergoing chemotherapy.
It
might
also
change
if
you
49
have
vitamin deficiency or,
you
at
the opposite extreme, if
megadoses of vitamins or some medication imparting a skin-tone transformation. Such a transformation may not be permanent, though. When you
stop the chemotherapy or go off the medication, your
complexion should return to normal, so do not be too
hasty about redoing your color chart.
One of our European associates would normally be a
Light-Bright color type but ended up as a Gentle/LightBright because she suffers from eczema. Her condition
are taking
causes her slightly golden-toned skin to be pinker than
normal in the neck and face area. This is the area that we
pay most attention to when we decide a person's color
type. If, on the other hand, her eczema condition one day
miraculously disappears, she will go right back to having
Light-Bright coloring,
as
her face and neck will return to
more golden shade of her arms.

Overweight people can also tend
the
to experience a skin
color change in the neck and face, again to a ruddier or
pinker shade. This, too, can alter one's color type.
Our Color
dren.
that
When
it
human
associates have charted a
comes
coloring
is
to children,
not always
we
number of
chil-
should point out
set until
people reach
adulthood. As children approach their early teens, their
may change slightly and hair color may darken.

hair color may darken even further after puberty,
skin tone
Their
but this generally will not affect their color chart because
hair color usuallv darkens in the
same color
familv.
All About Lip Color
One of the most
enhancing red shades you can wear
is
the
your body's natural

red color. It appears in various light and dark guises on
your body. Look inside your lower lip, at the color of
your fingertips when you gently squeeze them, in the
color your hps are naturally. This
mirror
fully in
when
is
explained
more
Chapter 2 under "Your Body Colors," and
illus-
you're flushed. (This color
trated in Plate 8.)
is
But any of your reddish shades, includ-
ing coral, can be matched in lipstick and nail pohsh.
How many
You
50
COLOR WONDERFUL
will
lipsticks
do you
really
need?
want to own at least three: one that matches

on your chart; one that matches your coral;
the red color
and one
in
your raspberry and/or plum shade.
(In Plate 10
wearing her toned-down rasptoned-down coral.) Some women

like to use a Hghter hpstick in the daytime and a darker
version ot the shade in the evening. In that case, you need
our Gentle color type
is
berry, and in Plate 41 her
Remember
six lipsticks.
worn
your best
in
our model's
For those
You
lipstick
is
medium
can see that in Plate 40
too bright.
women who want
choose
possible,
that these best shades are to be
clarity.
to
own
from your chart that will work both

evening. Supplement that with either a
raspberry, also in
medium
absolute necessity to
own
Some women complain

lipsticks that
good
them
It
both
plum, or
coral,
It
is
not an
plum and raspberry
different effects,
and many
enjoy using both.
clients
little
lipsticks as
daytime and
in
to dark value.
However, they do give
lipstick.
few
as
medium-dark red color
or
match
that
even though they choose
their best red shades,
since the colors tend to
it
does them
change once they apply
to their hps.
true there are
is
some women whose body
acidity
makes the color of any product applied to their face

and not only lipstick. It's just more noticeable
level
change
with
lipstick.
you
If
are
one of these women, you need
to test
any
sit
makeup product you buy very carefully by letting
on your skin for some length of time. You might apply it
at the makeup counter of your local department store and
it
leave
on while you shop
it
for a while in another part
of
you
Depending on
the store. If the product changes color in the interim,
know you'll have to

how your body has
try
choose
a little
shade that
For example,
is
if lipsticks
orangey, select one that
end up with. Thus,

lips,
we
if
what you're
occur
more
your
after
lip
bluer or
is a
more
coral.
shade bluer than you want to
you want
On
a coral
a lipstick
shade for your
color closer to the
the other hand, if a red shade
and you
know
color gets bluer
coral orange tone in
else.
the color of the product,
always change to look more
suggest you choose
red color on your chart.

is
something
altered
the opposite tends to

try a lipstick
with
it.
how you test lipstick: Take one of your lipsticks

you know changes on you and put some on the back
Here's
that
51
of your hand or the inside of your wrist and

for a while. If
it
you know
wrist,
counter and get an accurate reading.

lipstick
let
it
sit
there
on the back of your hand or

you can do the same at a makeup
also changes
only changes on your
lips,
you find out

saleswoman to
If
ask the
swab to take a little bit from the base of the

lipstick. Then smudge it directly on your lips. Take that
walk around the store again before you come back and
use a cotton
make
a final decision.
footnote on lip-lniing pencils: If you use one,
make
sure the shade of the pencil matches your lipstick color as

closely as possible. Often,
women
use lip-lining pencils in
shades that are very toned-down or brownish-looking.
Then when they apply

have
dark
running around the edge of their
line
Covering the
they appear to
a clearer lipstick,
line
lips.
completely with their lipstick color
helps solve the problem but the difference in color
often
detectable. This also defeats the
still
lip-lining
which
pencil,
is
"bleeding" and to define the
Addin<^ Color
Blush
or
as
it
used to be called
you
is
tired or
ill.
The
our model's blush makes her look

ish
too
toned-down
how much
and
much
is
intended to
complexion and
best basic color of blush
always your red color. (Notice
she wearing too
from
The wrong shade of
blush, to the contrary, can sallow your
tor
lipstick
e.xact lip area.
give you a healthy efflorescence.
make you looked
purpose o{ the
keep your
Your Cheeks
to
rouge
to
is
how
tired.
blush, but the color
in Plate
42
Not only is
is too brown-
for her Light-Bright coloring.
See
fresher she looks in Plate 43 wearing a lighter
clearer blush.)
Your
best shade of coral can be used as a lipstick or
for a blush. After all, you don't blush

do you? No. You blush your red color.
If you are wearing coral lipstick, you can experiment
by combining your red blush color with a touch of a
more coral blush. On most of you, your healthy glow will
disappear! A coral or orange cast to your blush will
negate that alive-and-well look of radiance you seek.
polish color but never

coral or orange,
52
'
COLOR lVO\DERFUL
Glasses and
Makeup
Women
often
makeup,
especially their eye
glasses.
whether they should
ask us
Our answer
of makeup, applied
is
no.
in the
makeup,
We recommend
same way,
their
alter
compensate for
to
same type
the
we recommend
that
anyone else.
We would, though, underscore the importance of eye
makeup. Shadow colors and appropriate eye liner and
mascara all discussed in your color type chapter in Part
II
are critical in projecting and enhancing the eye through
the eyeglass frames. On the other hand, you should never
apply so much eye makeup that it becomes a distraction,
the main thing people notice when they look at your face.
for
Universal Hair Coloring Principles
If
you
are seized with the urge to color
long and hard about
it
your
before you proceed.
think
hair,
And
before
you do, make sure you've had sufficient time to get used
to how you look wearing clothing and makeup in your
correct colors. You may fmd that your natural hair shade
suits you just fine.
Helene Mills, our Santa Monica associate, recalls a client
who was concerned about her hair color, which she dubbed
"mousey brown." Her hair did look mousey, but that
was because she was wearing all the wrong colors. She
wisely decided to wear her right colors for a while before
she rushed out to color her hair.
few months later, the woman remarked:

bought the most expensive blouse I've ever
owned. I would never have looked at it if the color hadn't
been on my chart. When I put it on, I loved it and me in
"I just
it!"
The
color?
hair color,
exact
same brown shade
as
her
own
which no longer appeared
to be a
"mousey
most enhancing shade
to color
your
brown."
Choosing
is
The
the
a tricky business.
We recommend
hair
you want to
you do it in a
your skin tone.
that if
lighten or darken your natural hair color,
shade that
is
highly complimentary to
Makeup and Hair
Coloriiiti
53
Let's take the
example of
woman who
is
Contrast
color type. She has natural black-brown hair and has been
having her hair permanented regularly. In the process,

she discovers that the chemicals in the permanent
wave
solution are turning her hair color progressively lighter,
more golden bronze,
rust, or reddish brown. This gradhappen whenever hair is subjected to

permanents or the sun on a regular basis.
ual lightening will
As
woman's hair changes color, superficially she

more and more like a Muted color type
this
begins to look
but not really because her skin tone has not changed
all.
Her problem
vertently.
her
is
saying,
It's
more toned-down
at
new hair color, transformed inad"I make you look like you need
colors," but her skin tone
is
saying, "/
need clear colors." UnfDrtunately, her hair color and skin

tone are increasingly out of sync. Despite what her
tered hair color
must
stick
is
saying, in order to glow, this
with the clear colors flattering to
color type and continue to avoid the
al-
woman
Contrast
toned-down shades
needed by Muted coloring.
One remedy
pulled through
problem
for the
"reverse frost" her hair
a cap, especially
for this
is
in other
woman
to
words, have her hair
the hair
around her
face,
and darkened to approximate her natural darker hair color.
Do
Blonds
Many
Have More Fun?
darker-haired
women
But do they dare
are curious.
risk it?
Most Caucasian women can look

provided the shade of blond
Although
it
is
right with their skin tone.
can be done effectively,
very dark-haired
women
however. With blond

trasting effect that
is
attractive as blonds
we do
not encourage
with Contrast coloring to try
hair,
it,
they lose the dark-light con-
characteristic
The natural-looking blonds
are
of their natural coloring.
women who
have made
their comchampagne blond,

beige-blond, wheat blond, and honey blond are the most
enhancing on the widest number of women. The shades
the effort to choose a shade that
plexion.
In
general,
compliments
the shades of
that are not universally effective are ash
golden and bronze-toned blond

54
COLOR nOXDERFUL
refer to as harsh or "brassy."
the
blond and very
blond colors
we

Why
aren't these shades o{
blond universally enhanc-
ing?
The
en's
complexions with the one exception of
womwomen with
ash blond shades look drab next to most
pink-beige skin tones.
The very golden and bronze-toned
blond shades are usually harsh, sallowing, and
artificial-
The exception would be a very golden skin tone

was compHmented by a very golden or bronze blond.
looking.
that
(Study Plate 3 and imagine Brenda in ash blond
She would look drab by comparison

hair
wonderful with her
is
clear
her
hair.
honey-blond
golden skin.)
Should you, by accident, end up with one of these

unattractive blond shades, there are remedies. For
exam-
make a very golden blond shade more palatable,

we recommend toning with an ash-tone shade. But you
ple, to
don't want your hair to look ashy either.
shade to
be
cut the
So use
that
brassy look so that your hair appears to
more honey or wheat blond.
On
the other hand, if
your hair has too much ash tone
in it, making you look

you should reverse the process. Put more golden
tones back in. The end result will be a warm-looking
champagne or wheat blond color.
A woman can find her most flattering shades of blond
by aiming for a color that incorporates the beige colors
drab,
that are right for her
with the camel shades
in her hair or
skin tone.
Here are some guidelines for selecting a blond shade

complimentary to your complexion:
If you have an ivory skin tone (like Helene in Plate 12),
strive
for
either
beige blond,
wheat blond shade, making sure
much
ash tone in the
champagne blond, or
that there
is
not too
latter.
you have golden tones in your skin (like Jeanne in

Plate 11), then you should move in the direction of a
slightly golden-toned blond shade, like a honey blond.
If you have pink tones in your skin (like Patti in Plate
2), strive for a beige blond, a champagne blond, or a
If
slightly ash blond.
Will I
My
Change Color Types When
Color
Hair?
No, you cannot change your color type by changing

color of your hair.
Why?
Because
not your natural hair color
it
is
the
your skin tone
that takes precedence in de-
Makeup and Hair
Coloring
55
ciding
what shades and
of color and contrast
clarity
levels
look best on you.
To prove
their
we've taken
it,
with
hair
clients
we
reference to their hair color,

best levels of contrast.
And
important factor for deciding

a
and entirely covered
Without any
neutral piece of fabric.
can
still
determine their
most
contrast levels are a

in
which color type
to place
person.
Should I Color
This
Gray Hair?
During her whole
personal decision.
is
My
woman may
feel
the process of graying, in the stage just
when
pepper,
life,
she looks her most drab while she
her whole head of hair
beyond
losing
is
is
in
salt-and-
its
pigment
On
but has not turned uniformly gray or white yet.
the
many of our women clients love their graying

its various stages. And because of their "up"
other hand,
hair in
all
attitude about
it,
they look gorgeous throughout. Often
these are lighter-haired

startlingly different
we
also
watch
counsel
women whose
when
it
starts to
women who
hair doesn't look
whiten. Conversely,
simply
These
their hair turning gray.
old as they
feel
women
are candi-
dates for hair coloring.
For graying
clients
tive to coloring
your
verse frosting." This
with darker
entire
is
hair, there
head of
hair.
is
colored.
The
called "re-
process whereby your hair
pulled through a cap so that some, rather than

hair
an alterna-
is
It's
hair that
is
all,
is
of your
colored can be returned to
your natural shade or any becoming shade you like, hi

this manner, some of your gray hair still shows. Highlighting or frosting can be used with the
looking results by
women
with light to
same
natural-
medium
hair
tones.
This halfway measure should be considered because

coloring
a full
look harsh or
head of hair can tend to make

like she definitely
"dyes" her
Because during the coloring process,

highlights end
up being colored
all
woman
hair.
Why?
of the natural
as well as the
gray
hair.
head of hair without highlights, no matter what the
However, a good colorist using a

good product can color your hair entirely and you will
color, can look dull.
56
COLOR WONDERFUL
look great provided the shade
is
right for
your
skin.
Part II
Coloramies for Your

Color Type
Chapter 5
Wardrobe Advice for
Muted Coloring
We
suspect that
more of our
readers turn to this chapter
than any of the chapters for the other three color types.
Why?
Because more than one-fourth of
all
women
American
have some variation of Muted coloring. Included among
them are Nancy Reagan. Sally Field, Barbra Streisand,

Ann-Margret. Carol Burnett. Raquel Welch. Shirley
MacLaine. Lucille
and Jane Fonda.

as mid-range coloring.
Ball,
Think of Muted coloring

that
at
we mean
coloring that
is
By
not quiet and gentle-looking
the one extreme or bright or contrast-looking at the
other.
A woman who
has
Muted
coloring needs to re-create
the look of her natural coloring in her clothing and
color choices. In general, any
woman
makeup
with Muted color-
ing will look great wearing lots of different textures in

fabrics (see
Photo
5.2).
leathers,
and metals.
You
could
Muted coloring go hand in hand.

Maybe you have excellent color sense in interior design
or when you help your husband mix and match his
say that texture and
business wardrobe. But
dont
let this
mislead you.
It
does
Muted Coloring
59
not necessarily follow that you exercise the same level of
judgment when you
select
Jan Larkey, for instance,

associate,
among
had
when
background
own
your
as
clothes.
she trained as a Color
an art instructor teaching,
other things, color theory. She was also an experi-
enced interior decorator, and she'd been selling her popu-
custom-designed jewelry for years.
lar
through Color
made
Jan
1,
herself:
She was wearing
Muted
coloring!
all
Not only
Nevertheless,
startling discovery
wrong
the
about
colors to suit her
she hadn't updated her
that,
look since college.

"I
still
wore long
straight hair
My
bined with vibrant colors.
Our
Castro Valley, California,

consultant Betty Soblin has
Muted
coloring that
is
certainly
was
closet
contrast black and white.
and patterns
my more
muted body colors. It's no wonder
looked
fat, faded, and frumpy," she says in retrospect.
blended,
stron<;i
forty,
contrast effect iîves
the illusion of the jacket wear-
No
longer.
Today, Jan is always smartly dressed in the

of colors most enhancing on her. Her
shades and
clarities
hairstyle
contemporary.
ing the person rather than vice

versa.
Moreover, Betty's eye,
and cheek makeup
lip,
pale for her lovely
Below (Photo
is
too
5.2), Betty
And
she wears
makeup
in the
is
striped jacket.
It
Your Best Color
Clarities
looks
just right, creating a soft cotitrast
is
colors that appear on her color chart.
colorini^.
dressed in a textured, camel
and beige
fire
high
responded to psychologically, totally ig-
white dotted jacket she models
This
in
had been buying the colors
noring the visual impact they created with
photo above (Photo 5.1).
with
filled
engine red, wipeout white, and enormous prints
not enhanced by the black and
in the
Toned-down
on
colors look striking
women
with Muted
look that compliments her
Muted
is
and no makeup com-
coloring. Betty's
makeup
just right too, neither too pale
coloring.
Bright and intense
clarities
can look harsh or
garish.
Muted
nor too heavy.
color types should never ever wear pure white
because there
is
about that color
nothing even remotely muted-looking

(see
Pure white
Plate 27).
of the toned-down
color, just the opposite
looks the most attractive on
Muted
is
bright
clarity that
color type.
Women
with Muted coloring should substitute their best white,

really an off-white, for
pure white. Surprising
as
it
may
seem, on them their best white will appear whiter than

really
is
it
because of their bodies' natural color scheme.
The second-best
clarity level for a
Muted
color type
is
subdued. (Study Plates 21-23 to review toned-down and
subdued
els
in
clarities.
Plates
1,
Then consider how enhanced our mod9,
13,
17,
toned-down and subdued
28,
and 39 are by wearing
colors.)
Best Clarity of Colors for

Color Type
Muted Color Types
Two
dark colors,
dark raspberry and dark blue,
e.g.,
dark green and dark plum.
Two medium
colors,
medium red and medium

medium purple.
e.g..
blue,
medium
Any
neutral with any color, e.g.. light gray and red.
blue-green and
navy and purple. Remember, do
not
combine
light col-
ors in small patterns without adding a contrasting accent.
Two
e.g..
neutrals that create a soft or
camel and
medium
contrast,
beige and navy.
rust,
Put another way. you can combine everything except

black and white, navy and white, and light colors in small
patterns.
Unless you're
hair, stay
away trom
Muted
color type with dark
the combination of dark
brown and
white, too.
Addiii<^
ati
Accent Color
What about the addition of an accent color

Here are two rules for Muted color types:
1.
When
the
wearing
all
near your face or
one color
monotone look
wear
or piece of jewelry.
when
2.
it's
worn with
Medium-value
head to
toe.
form of
solid-colored
in
a scarf,
ribbon,
blouse becomes the accent
colors can be
great wearing this
suit.
worn with
or without an
Plate 39 Betty
medium
would look
value of her blue-green
even without the accent of the scarf But
medium brown, camel, dark

and medium gray may require the addition of
medium
beige,
For example,
accent.
or dark value
contrasting accent
the waist. That accent could be a
at
solid color or a pattern in the

belt,
a light
soft
to an outfit?
neutral colors
second accent color.
Your Best Neutrals

For
women
most
with Muted coloring, the neutrals youll tnid
useful for pulling together a well-coordinated
ward-
robe are your best shades of off-white, cream, beige,

62
COLOR IVOXDERFl'L
camel. 'brown, and rust.
Thev can be combined with
all
of
your other best neutrals (discussed

other colors to create effective
in detail
medium and
below) and
soft levels
of
contrast. These neutral shades can also be worn yearround in any region or climate the world over.
Here are a few examples:
Beiges and camels can be worn in the warmer months
with all of your pastels and other light neutrals. A beige
dress worn with turquoise and ivory beads, sheer beige
hose, and shoes in either turquoise or beige would look
elegant in any warm climate in the world. In the cooler
months, a Muted color type can create the look of fall or
winter by combining beige and camel with the medium
and darker tones on her color chart.
Off-white can be worn in both the warmer and cooler
seasons, too, depending on the shades you couple it with.
For instance, you might create the look of autumn by
wearing an ensemble consisting of off-white slacks, a rust
top, a camel, off-white, and rust belt, and rust shoes. For
a winter effect, you might wear off-white slacks with a
sweater of deep purple,
a camel, purple, and off-white

tweed jacket accessorized with an ivory necklace, and
shoes of purple or camel.
But
we just
in addition to the neutrals
are others
want
you'll
wardrobe. Here
is
to
mentioned, there
consider to round out your
rundown of all
very darkest to the Hghtest, with
the neutrals,
from the
how
to incor-
tips
about
them in your wardrobe:

Many, but not all women with Muted coloring
can wear black. To decide whether you can, ask yourself
"Does a black item of clothing look as good on me as the
same garment in a color that matches my hair color?" In
porate
Black.
on you if you are going

to add it to your wardrobe and wear it regularly.
Even if you look enhanced in black, by now we hope
you know you can never wear black with white, although you
short, black has to look that good
can
wear
all
of the
it
with beige.
light,
Also, try combining black with
medium, and dark
values of your best
colors.
Lighter-haired
to
have
women
may need
when they're
with Muted coloring
hghter accent color near their face
wearing black or black combined with another dark color.
On
the other hand, there are
haired
Muted
color types
many medium- and
who
darker-
can wear black alone, or
Muted
Colorinj^
63
with other deeper shades, never add
hght accent, and
look lovely.
still
Black shoes are not
They are
somewhere
basic go-vvith-everything color
when black is incorpoWhat follows are typical

many Muted women find
for you.
to be used only
rated
in the outfit.
outfits incorporating black that
enhancing:
black dress accessorized with
copper and gold tex-
tured belt. At the neck, wear either
copper necklace or
and purse could be black or
several gold chains. Shoes
metallic copper. If black, use sheer black hose; if metal-
use sheer skin-tone hose.
lic,
Black slacks worn with
a black,
of textured
string
camel, and gray tweed
Complete
jacket and a gray blouse.
the ensemble with a
or black
silver
sheer black
beads,
hose, and black shoes and purse.
deep
suit
teal
coordinated with
brick print blouse.
This
outfit's
black,
teal,
and
accessories include a
small black leather belt, black leather shoes and purse,
and sheer teal-tinted hosiery.
black skirt
worn with
a light coral
blouse and
a coral
and black print scarf Shoes and purse are black, and
hose are sheer black or skin tone.
Camel. Camel,
hair tones,
is
in a
shade harmonious to the skin and
one of the most useful neutrals
for
Muted
color types.
Why? Because
it's
an extremely versatile neutral.
colored clothing coordinates well with

they're dark,
all
colors,
medium, or light.
with Muted coloring have
Some women
or caramel highlights
camel
that
in
their
On
distinct
these
matches the highlight shade exactly
even more stunning because

their natural
own
hair.
body
it
camel
women,
will look
focuses attention on one of
These
colors.
Camelwhether
both dressy and casual shoes
Imagine these ensembles on
women
in their
will
want
to
camel color.
woman
with Muted
coloring:
camel
suit
worn with
medium-light plum blouse,
an ivory necklace, ivory shoes, and sheer ivory hose.
64
COLOR
lVO.\'DI-R}UL
camel
is
pulled together further by a necklace of camel-colored
skirt
topped off with
a coral
blouse.
The
outfit
wooden beads
intertwined with
strand of coral beads.
Shoes and purse are camel, and hose are sheer skin tone.
camel jacket over medium gray slacks, a cream-white

shirt, and at the neck a gray or silver necklace. Shoes
and purse are either gray or camel; hose can be skin

tone or sheer gray.
camel dress worn with
camel scarf
at
patterned plum, green, and
camel shoes and purse, and
the neck,
skin-tone or pale camel-colored stockings.
camel
skirt
combined with
pale gray
jacket, belt, shoes and purse in navy,
gold necklace. Hose are skin tone or
If
Muted
are a
color type with
textured
sheer camel tone.
blouse,
a
medium
to lighter
your complexion and hair color are on the medium

light side
camel is an excellent color for shoes, hand-
look
to
you
and
bags, and belts.
It
also a fine choice for
is
any item of
clothing, especially for a jacket, blazer, or coat.
Gray. Here is another useful neutral, particularly when

you wear your most enhancing shade of gray in its medium and lighter values. Darker charcoal grays are not
enhancing to
all
women
with Muted coloring.
And
keep
mind that any value of your gray is often prettier on

you when accented with one of your other best colors
near your face.
Gray is a good color for purses, shoes, and belts. It's
in
particularly enhancing if
your hair
gray or white or
is
in
the process of graying.
Gray combines well with all the light, medium, and

dark values of your best colors as well as with all the
neutrals on your chart. VisuaHze how you might look in
these ensembles:
A medium
blouse,
gray skirt
rust beads,
worn with
purse,
belt,
medium
purple
and shoes, and sheer
gray-tinted hosiery.
A medium
blouse,
gray
suit
worn with
medium
teal
blue
gray pearls, gray shoes and purse, and sheer
gray hose.
Pale gray slacks topped off with
At the neck, the whole
is
outfit
gray-green-cream striped scarf

gray, hose are sheer gray.
medium
green blouse.
pulled together by
Shoes and purse are

Muted Coloring
65
A medium-dark
gray business
suit
worn with
cream
blouse, silver beads, and sheer gray hose, gray shoes,
and purse.
Navy. Solid expanses of navy can be overly darklooking on many women with Muted coloring.
Thus, for even your best shade of navy to look
enhancing, you must often combine it with all the other
colors on your chart
with one exception. As we've said
several times before, navy and any version of white creates too strong a level of contrast for you. (Compare
Photos 5.3 and
Medium
often need
In Photo 5.3, the strong con-
of the white blouse and

navy suit is all wrong on a
5.4.)
to lighter-haired
a
colors,
on the other hand, are
too light. Berry's clothing stands

out,
while her
with Muted coloring
when
they're wearing navy, especially if they're
trast
woman with Betty Soblin's

Muted coloring. Her makeup
women
lighter color accent near their face
with another dark color.
combining navy
For example, navy slacks and a
dark green sweater might need
beige collar peaking out
of the top of the sweater. Or you might add a patterned

scarf with navy and green combined with other light
colors.
Navy
face recedes.
rated
shoes are to be
somewhere
worn only when navy
is
incorpo-
else in the outfit.
Experiment with some of these looks:
navy
suit
worn with
a pastel
yellow blouse.
Com-
navy lapis necklace, navy shoes

and purse, and sheer navy hose.
Navy slacks worn with a light gray blouse and the same
navy lapis necklace. Shoes, purse, and hose are (sheer)
navy or gray.
A navy skirt worn with a medium red blouse and a
camel blazer, a red-navy-camel scarf, sheer navy hosiery,
and camel or navy shoes and purse.
plete the look with a
66
COLOR WOXDERFLL
We don't recommend navy as a basic color for shoes

and purses. However, navy accessories are lovely if the
outfit has any navy in it. Navy can also look great as the
"total accessory look" for an all-one-color effect (such as
navy belt, shoes, and purse with a yellow dress) or with a
two-color effect (such as navy shoes, necklace, and purse
worn with a red skirt and beige blouse). A "total accessory look" means that the odd color (not appearing in the
outfit) must be repeated twice. Purses do not count unless
they are going to be carried and show every minute you
are wearing the outfit.
Browns.
If
you
are a light to darker-haired brunette
with Muted coloring, your hair color brown
one of
your clothing and
shades that match exactly or compliment
your very best neutral

accessories in
your natural hair

and casual shoes,
your
color.
as
Select
colors.
You
is
will
want
own
to
both dressy
well as purses and belts, that match
hair color.
Lighter-haired
women
with Muted coloring should stay
away from very dark browns

heavy for
in the light to
as the color
But these same
their look.
women
medium-dark values of
is
often too
should revel
brown.
their best
These brown shades will look wonderful.

Browns can be combined with all the colors Hght,
medium, or dark in value on your color chart and
nearly all of your neutrals. Brown can be particularly
when mixed with
exciting
turquoise,
reds,
blues, corals, greens, purples,
and yellows. Try out some of these
combinations:
A medium brown
blouse,
beads and
brown,
a
belt,
skirt
rust,
worn with
creamy white
and cream tweed jacket, rust
a
and either rust or medium brown
shoes and purse. Hose could be sheer
brown
or skin
Xotice
how much
better Betty
looks (Photo 5.4) wearing the
same navy
suit
with a pale
peach blouse and the
correct
makeup. The medium
level
contrast in her outfit
cor-
rect
for
Muted
is
The
color types.
toned-down makeup
colors
of
give
her face an unmistakable

vibrancy.
tone.
A medium brown
suit worn with a medium red blouse

and matching red shoes and purse. At the neck, wear a
brown-red-cream patterned scarf. Hose can be sheer
brown
or skin tone.
light
brown
skirt
combined with
a pale coral
blouse
and finished off with the addition of a camel or cream

jacket and camel or cream-colored shoes, purse, and
hose.
strand of light
brown beads
in the
same color
as the skirt lends a nice touch.
Rust. Rust,
dium, or
when
coordinated with other darker, me-
light values
of colors, creates
great
Muted
look.
Picture an auburn-haired
ion wearing
a rust suit
woman
with a beige complex-
from her main
hair color family
At her neck, she dons a patterned

scarf of teal, rust, and red. Her hosiery is skin tone or
sheer rust, her purse is rust, and on her feet she wears
rust pumps.
with
a teal blouse.
Muted Coloring
61
Or
picture this:
woman
brown-haired
with camel
topped off with
medium-value, toned-down green blouse. She wears
hair highhghts
camel
wearing
a rust skirt
and beads, sheer camel or rust-tinted hose,
belt
and rust or camel shoes and purse.

Typically,
women
with Muted coloring have hair shades
ranging from caramel blond to dark brown, sometimes
Many
with distinct rust highlights.
Muted
redheads with rust-
no matter
what your hair color, you will look smashing in your
best shade of rust. You will want rust shoes, a rust belt,
colored hair are also
and
a rust
purse in your wardrobe.
Beiges. Beiges represent
Muted
color for
ries also
color types. But
a basic
shoe, purse, and belt
color types. Beige clothing and accesso-
coordinate well with
all
me-
the glorious dark,
dium, and light values of every color and neutral on your

color chart.
Choosing the
right beige can be tricky,
however. Let
your skin tone be your guide, and if you are a light-haired

Muted color type, your hair color beige may also be used.
Obviously, a Muted color type wîth pink-brown beige skin
shouldn't wear clothing in a golden brown-beige shade
unless it matches her hair and a color break is utilized. The
reverse is also true. A woman with golden brown-beige
skin should not wear any beiges with a pinkish cast.
Here are some suggestions of ways to work with your
best beige:
worn with a necklace, belt, shoes, and

matching toned-down shade of red. Hose are
beige dress
purse in
skin tone.
a navy, beige, and green

and beige shoes and hose.
Beige slacks topped off with

striped shirt, a
beige skirt
wood
navy
jacket,
worn with
a bluish
purple blouse,
beige
necklace intertwined with a gold chain, pale cream
hosiery, and beige shoes and purse.
beige pair of slacks and matching blouse coordinated
with
creamy off-white jacket,
pearls,
and beige shoes,
purse, and hose.
This
look
last outfit
to dark color
68
COLOR WONDERFUL
on
darker-haired
touch too subdued. She
her pearls
Muted
may need
to
may
medium
color type
add
say, a turquoise necklace intertwined
with
to this outfit to increase the level of contrast.
Muted
White. All
(really
color types can wear their best white
an off-white shade) head to toe or combined with
their other best colors and neutrals. What they can never
do is combine their white with their navy, black (if it is
one ot their dark neutrals), and dark brown (if it is one of
their
dark shades
titid
if their
light), tor this creates far
their
toned-down
hair color
too strong
Your white
necklace,
medium
is
to
of contrast for
coloring.
Picture yourself looking great in
a level
in a suit
w4th
medium
red blouse, ivory
off-white hose, and either off-white or red
shoes and purse.
Your white
in slacks
with
medium
teal
blouse, pearls,
and otf-white hose, shoes and purse.

Your white in a skirt w4th a plum blouse, ivory beads
twisted with camel-colored wooden beads, sheer offwhite or skin tone hose, and camel shoes and purse.
Your white in a dress set off by a dark blue-green jacket
and matching blue-green necklace, off-white hose, and
either off-white or blue-green shoes and purse.
Wine and Burgundy. These "neutrals" find their way

many women's wardrobes because, by definition,
they are a subdued clarity.
Be forewarned, though, that the exact shade of wine or
burgundy you select is crucial since most women with
Muted coloring cannot wear the deepest, almost blackened, tones of these colors; nor can they wear the dullest,
extremely toned-down versions of these shades. But the
right shade and clarity of wine and burgundy can be
enhancing on Muted color types.
into
Shoes
in these tones
are only to be
same color is incorporated somewhere

Here are some suggestions:
red-wine
suit
worn with
a pale
hose, and shoes and purse in the
Burgundy
worn when
that
in the outfit.
pink blouse, sheer pink
same color
as
your
hair.
combined with a teal blouse, garnet

necklace, burgundy sheer hose, and shoes and purse
that match the color of your hair.
If
you
slacks
are a hghter-haired
Muted
color type
who com-
bines the colors of wine or
color
burgundy with a dark second

navy or dark green, for example you may need
Muted Colorm^
69
to
wear
times
accent color at the neck.
a third lighter
works
it
if
Some-
you simply open your blouse
the
at
neck, exposing the lighter shade of your skin.
Dark Greens.
You'll find you can combine your best
shade of dark green with most of your other best colors
and neutrals
There
is
in
their light,
one exception:
medium, and dark values.

Muted color type
light-haired
may
need to add a lighter accent to an ensemble

combines dark green with another dark color.
Visualize yourself wearing
dark green
a rust
skirt,
that
sweater,
dark green-rust-
camel tweed jacket, and rust shoes and purse and sheer
rust or
camel hose.
dark green
with
suit
with
gold necklace,
cream blouse, accessorized

belt, camel shoes and
camel
purse, and sheer camel hose.
dark green dress with deep plum piping
plum
plum
earrings, sheer
plum
at the
neck,
hose, and shoes and purse in
or the color of your hair.
Fabric Textures and Weij^hts

Fabric texture refers to the
woven arrangement of
its
yarns or fibers. At the one extreme, there are the tightly
woven, smooth
silks,
fabrics.
Included in this category are
some
rayon, and various synthetics such as nylon.
the other extreme are the

fabrics,
among them
more
loosely
woven
At
textured
Hnen, herringbone, tweeds, and raw
Cotton can be smooth and fine or roughly textured.

color types can wear the full range of fabric
textures. They look particularly enhanced in fabrics in
which the texture is pronounced. This is because their
silks.
Muted
natural coloring has a subtle textured quality to
it.
Re-
peating this subliminal effect in your clothing creates a

is nothing short of fantastic (see Photo 5.2).
Another excellent look for Muted color types is the
combination of a textured fabric with a smooth fabric
mohair sweater worn with a wool gabardine skirt, for
instance. Or you might want to use an ethnic necklace
made of beads and carved pieces of ivory to accent a
lustrous and shiny silk shirtwaist dress, if the styling
look that
70
COLOR WONDERFUL
allows.
The other consideration is

rics, for example, can come
gauzy or
nubby
a fabric's
weight. Silk fab-
weights so light they're
in
weights so heavy that they actually have
in
Your
texture.
fabric weights, but
color type allows the use of
your wêight and body structure
all
are
important variables to take into account when you're

choosing fabric weights. Clearly,
very full-figured
woman
does not want to add pounds to her frame by wearing an

overly thick fabric.
Patterns, Prints,
Generally,
scale
Muted
prints
and Designs
color types look best in small
and designs.
medium
contrast, tiny patterns
the only
women who
need to be avoided, since
look attractive
those with Gentle coloring and
You
coloring.
5.7);
and
in tiny patterns are
few with Light-Bright
can wear larger prints provided:
print's contrast level
photo
tomedium-
Small patterns need to have
(1)
somewhat blended-looking
is
the
(see
small and medium-scale designs exist
(2)
within the larger overall pattern.
So enjoy those
florals,
checks,
stripes,
geometries, and paisleys (see Plate 26).
dots,
plaids,
But avoid the
navy and white polka dots since this

too high in contrast for you (see Photo 5.1).
traditional black or
design
is
Jewelry
Handcrafted, ethnic, textured contemporary, and antique
jewelry look particularly attractive on Muted color types.
Why?
Because texture
is
synonymous with Muted
color-
ing and these pieces generally incorporate texture as
predominant element of the design. (For example, the

made of amber and African trade
necklace in Photo 7.7
beads
is
too large visually for those with Light-Bright
would work well for many women with

They range from the colorful and earthy
the ethnic pieces handcrafted by artisans of
coloring, but
Muted
coloring.)
designs ot
different
cultures
around the world
symmetrical designs of the antique

usually
made of metals
that
to
the ornate and
pieces.
The
latter are
have been brushed, oxidized,
antiqued, florentined, or etched.
Muted Coloring
71
Here
thumb
are the rules of
keep
to
mind when you
in
are choosing jewelry:
Medium-sized
Size.
provide
Muted
to larger pieces
of jewelry are best
Tiny, extremely delicate-looking pieces don't
for you.
a
strong enough focal point for
coloring unless you are
women
with
Muted/Gentle color type

who has light-colored hair and you are wearing a palecolored outfit that doesn't need much of a jewelry accent
to look finished. To increase the effectiveness o{ your
smaller pieces, wear several together.
When
Muted
jewelry together,
outfit.
Betty Soblin
is
showcased
's
Muted
best
coloyini^
by medium-to
large-scale jewelry. In
Photo
5.5, you see her wearing a
gold chain and pendant

necklace
a- bit
coloring.
titiy
too delicate for her
As
wearing
a classic
Medium
wears several pieces of
can be very becoming with the right
it's
not an appropriate look
business
of jewelry
may wear
when
Muted
color types can
effectively. Lighter-haired
wear
Muted
larger pieces only if the design
of
the jewelry creates the illusion that they are Hght in weight.
Metal Colors. Good metal colors for you are gold,

shghtly tarnished or textured
silver,
pewter, copper, bronze,
and brass. Combining gold and
silver will also
an enhancing shade, a toned-
you
you
down
of the two metals. Thus, your earrings and
ance, ei'cn though her suit
is
orange. Another prob-
lem: Betty's
you're
suit.
to dark-haired
larger pieces
color types
color type
a consequence,
Betty has an u}ifinished appear-
in
it
Obviously,
makeup
is
too pale.
if.
for example, the necklace
work
wearing
are
for
mix
is a
bracelet
could pick up either the gold or silver in the necklace.

If
you have
golden brown-beige skin, golden olive,
or olive skin, gold
is
your number one choice, but
other metals listed above will
still
all
be beautifully effective
on you.
Metal Finishes. Both smooth and textured metals are
but avoid pieces with large surface areas that are
fine,
shiny. In general, avoid any pieces that
amounts of
bright, shiny metals. In
lace illustrated
is
made of
black
showcase large
Photo 8.8 the neck-
onyx and
silver.
This
amount of shiny metal could call too much attention to

itself on a Muted color type; however, if the silver were
allowed to tarnish a bit, the necklace would be more
flattering to Muted color types who look super in black.
One client had this reaction when we told her to avoid
large amounts of shiny metal jewelry: "I feel like you're a
fortune-teller consulting a crystal ball. You're telling
me
known
me why I'm
be-
things about myself
you
fore and, not only that,

12
'
COLOR IVOS'DERFUL
way
am."
really couldn't
you
are telling
have
the
In particular, this client
with her Muted coloring was
referring to the fact that she had for years been avoiding
the beautiful and expensive large pieces of bright, shiny
jewelry decorating her jewelry box. She'd always
silver
owning
guilty about
felt
We
them.
had
the pieces but never wearing
finally presented her
with
expla-
a rational
nation for her instinctively wise behavior.
Gem
Semi-Precious Stones, and Costume
Stones,
Jewelry. Never wear costume jewelry
extremely bright and

colors on
clear.
Your Color
Color Chart
in colors that are
The shades and
clarities
ot
most
will be the
enhancing on you.
What about lovely expensive jewelry you already own

whose colors aren't particularly flattering on you?
Don't panic. Such pieces can still be worn with an
important the size of jewelry
otherwise color-perfect outfit provided you keep the piece
can he. This neckhue of me-
away from your
dium
skin.
For example, suppose you
own
and your best shade of green
is
jade green necklace
closer to
an emerald
Photo 5.6 demonstrates how
outfit.
scale completes Betty's
Betty's
makeup
is
also
stron^êr in this photo, ^îi'in<^
her features just the right
Wear
green.
that jade necklace on top of a blouse that
one of your best

a
colors.
will look stunning
It
worn
is
in
enhancement.
against
blouse of purple, brown, yellow, or coral.
We
even
hope you
realize
by
now
that pure w^hite
is verboteti
in jewelry.

In
age of free fashion expression,
this
purse need no
longer match your shoes exactly. However, both your
handbag and shoes must go with your outfit. If they both

relate wtII visually to your outfit, they'll both go well
with each other.
What
materials should
materials are your
purse
is
a staple in
take care of
For
it,
it
late spring,
first
you seek out

choice.
in purses?
Natural
good-quality leather
every woman's wardrobe, and
if
you
will last for years.
summer, and
wicker purses are particularly
dimension of texture so
early
fall
wear, straw and
They add that

women with Muted
effective.
flattering to
coloring. For every season of the year, consider a suede
or reptile-skin purse.
Patent leather
is
the one material
vou must avoid
in
Muted Coloriw^
73
large amounts.
Its
shiny finish
is
not for you except
in
small amounts mixed with leather, suede, canvas, or straw.
Your
best year-round color choices in
handbags are
your hair colors and your skin tones. Your second best
choices are the other neutrals on Your Color 1 Color
Chart.
Your
best camel shade
is
one of your most
purse colors on your chart because

It
goes with
medium
it
works
for
versatile
all
seasons.
or hght-toned clothing as well as
dark-toned clothing.
of
In terms
size, if
you can carry any
may
purses
look
you
size
are five feet six inches or taller,
purse you wish. Note that larger
like "totes",
though, even on
tall
women.
Women
under five feet six inches need to stay with small

medium-sized purses (eleven by eight inches or less).
Because small purses in smooth leathers and skins can be
to
we recommend they be first purchases, no matter what your height.

You can't go wrong if you ow^n a handbag or an
used with both dressy and casual clothing,
attache case in a color that matches your hair color exactly.
No
matter what color outfit you are wearing, this
item will always look coordinated because
predominant theme
Of
course, if
more
you
in
it
repeats a
your body's natural color scheme.
are a light
blond or
flaming red-
you to find an attache case

that duplicates your hair color. So for blonds, we suggest
you match your camel color in other words, your hair
color taken darker. Redheads should look for briefcases in
the rust and brown on their charts.
head,
it's
difficult for
Shoes
Much
of the material and color information about hand-
bags and attache cases applies equally to shoes.
Your
74
COLOR WONDERFUL
wardrobe should contain both dressy

and casual shoes in colors that match your hair exactly
and in a beige shade that matches your skin exactly. No
patent leather, please, except in strap sandals. Supplement
these hair- and skin-toned shoes with shoes in your other
best neutral shades such as camel, brown, beige, rust,
navy, and gray.
If pure black does not exist on your color chart, there is
no need for you ever to own a pair of black shoes.
basic shoe
Shoes
such colors
in
own
are fabulous to
as
but
your best
a definite
red, blue,
and green
luxury unless you wear
on building a shoe wardrobe

in your best neutral tones first. Then add shoes in your
favorite colors, colors that you wear the most frequently.
that color a lot. Concentrate
Eyeglass Frames
No Muted
color type can go
wrong
she selects her
if
from her best beige color (skin tone) or

color. She might also repeat a hair highlight
eyeglass frames
her main hair
color in her frames provided

color that
it is
apparent under
is
all
predominant highlight
lighting conditions, not
just in direct sunlight.
might be a good choice. Just make sure

the colors running through it are good ones for you. The
drawback here is that tortoiseshell is too casual-looking a
frame to wear for dressy and formal occasions. So, if you
can only have one pair, select a flattering solid tone.
Frameless glasses can give a nice effect and show off
your eyes very well.
If you lean toward metal frames, we recommend a
tortoiseshell
soft-toned or textured gold.
Muted
on
Gray-haired
women
with
coloring look lovely in silver frames that pick up
their
hair
tone.
Slightly
toned-down and textured
metallic finishes are your best bet.
any neutral-colored tVame
Naturally,
than
color and can afford
ahead.
is
less
colored trame. But for those of you
more than one
Choose frames
Your Color
limiting
who
crave
of eyeglasses, go
any of the colors that appear on
in
pair
Color Chart.
Evening Wear
Night lighting conditions
they're hard to predict.
discotheque, you
are very tricky, partly because
Of
course, if you're going to a
know you might
be subjected to the
bright flashing spotlight effect of strobe hghting as well

as
very dim. dark lighting. Elegant restaurants usually
feature soft flickering candlelight.

cial
Other than
that, artifi-
night lighting conditions are anybody's guess.
For after-five wear, a

should wear the strongest
woman
with Muted coloring
clarity she can possibly sustain.
Muted Coloring
75
means medium shades of
Generally, that
Medium
clarity.
toned-down
values afford the brightest look on
women
with Muted coloring. In terms of texture, smooth shiny
good choice. They add

a shimmering lame
a
fine for you provided it is
fabrics are a
For example,
threads
is
shades and
it
is
luster to
fabric
in
any color.
with metallic
one o{ your best
not overly bright. Sequins and beads are
fine as well if they
have
toned-down look
a slightly
to
them.
Dark and
fade to
good choices because they

noncolor look under most night-lighting condipale colors are not
tions.
A Muted
color type will find that
and bronze metallic
finish shoes
toned-down golden
and bags are striking
in
toned-down
the evening, or she might select any other
metallic finish or dressy leather or fabric shoe that repeats
her most
prominent hair colors or skin tones.
women
haired
metallic shoes.
vour
will look
You
smashing
can also match
in
a
silver
Gray-
or pewter
prominent color
in
outfit.
Furs
Select furs in
your best shades of off-white, beige, camel,

and, of course, black if it is on
brow'n, rust, or gray
your color
chart.
Solid-colored furs are
worn with
tion,
more versatile
more casual
dressy as well as
they can be
worn over
as
they can be
outfits. In addi-
patterned as well as solid-
colored clothing.
Multicolored furs such as lynx and raccoon are sensational.
But we warn you. they
therefore, are
more
limiting for
are sportier in look and.
w-omen with multifaceted
life-stvles.
Makeup and Hair

When
is
76
COLOR nOXDERFUL
Muted
Coloring Advice
color type errs in her choice of
makeup,
it
often because she selects colors that are too bright.
Keiko Couch, our Fort Worth
associate,
will
never
forget her color charting session with one cUent in partic-
The woman, in her early seventies, is a wealthy

rancher's widow. Despite her pronounced Muted color-
ular.
ing,
this
woman
walked into Keiko's studio wearing
brightly colored outfit with the
pink
makeup
foundation; orange-brown cheek color; and
liant red lip color that
Not only was
the
was bleeding out
makeup
to match: far too

a bril-
to her wrinkles.
too bright, the colors didn't
even go well with each other.
The
client explained her garish
mother always dressed
me
image
way:
in this
in bright colors so
"My
got in the
make my face up to match my wardrobe."

Because the makeup shades were wrong, Keiko had her
client remove it completely so she could work with her
natural skin tones. By holding up patterned fabric swatches
in Muted colors and medium contrast levels, Keiko showed
habit,
guess.
her the right look, the one she'd been missing out on
all
The woman was speechless. Today she dresses

Muted color type she is and loves her look!
these years.
like the
Makeup
Colors
How
and where
cally
enhance your natural beige-on-brown, brown-on-
makeup on your face is not the

province of this book. Our mandate is color. We are
going to discuss what makeup colors to wear to dramatito apply
brown, or red-on-brown
rich
Muted
coloring.
Foundation. Your foundation, or makeup base, must

match your skin tone exactly. Don't
you
let a
saleswoman
into anything different, say, a base with too
pink in
it,
talk
much
"to give you that ail-American, peaches and
cream look." Stay away from foundation that is too pink

on the one extreme and too orange on the other. The skin
tones of many Muted color types are brown-beige or a
golden brown-beige. When you shop for foundation, study
all the bottles lined up in a row, and first try those that
appear to have the least amount of pink in them.
Blush. Blush
is
intended to give you
healthy glow.
All your best red, plum, raspberry, and red-purple shades

are excellent choices for blush colors. Your best shade of
coral can be used as a lipstick or polish color but never for
a
blush except perhaps as
blush.
a light
touch underneath your red

Muted Coloring
77
You
Lipstick.
can combine
of your best
all
new
colors with impunity to create
shades.
And
lipstick
don't be
match your lipstick shades in nail polish. One of

your best colors for lipstick is your best shade of red the
color you turn when you blush or flush. Other possibilities are your best shades ot coral, plum, raspberry, redeach in the best clarity to
purple, and possibly wine
afraid to
enhance your Muted coloring.
Eye shadow. Your eye shadow colors should be in the

same toned-down colors you wear in clothing to emphasize and enhance your natural Muted coloring. The one
exception are
makeup
can wear
.4//
Muted
color
type, should he able to
wear
Belt)' Sohliti, a
this softly contrastin'(i top

its
stripes
ofpale^ray,
with
coral,
yellow, peach, and camel (Photo

3.7).
up.
The problem
It's
too pale.
Muted
sure their
makeup
medium
to
her make-
Women
colorinj^
enough strength
their
is
to
with
must make
colors
have
compliment
own?
colors that are brighter and
in
mind
who
clearer.
that different colors create different ef-
How many basic eye shadow

We recommend brown, gray, a
pale skin-tone
shade or
blue-green, and
ple, incidentally,
will
with Muted/Contrast coloring,
of your best colors can be used for eye shadow,
keeping
fects.
women
at least
colors should
highlighter in
creamy white,
blue,
you
your
green,
one shade of bluish purple. Pur-
goes with everything. Certain eye shapes
need both Hght and medium-to-dark values of each
shade.
For
conservative-looking eye during the day, your
strong coloring,
but not so strong that they over-
power them.
your eye colors translated into shad(refer back to
best neutrals and/or
ows, subtly applied, are your best bet
Chapter
2).
This look
is
appropriate for conservative busi-
more understated
ness attire or any ensemble requiring a
look in eye makeup.
For
less
conservative effect, wear eye
makeup
that
repeats the colors in your clothing. Study Plates 38 and

39.
The
first
shows
woman
with Muted coloring made-
same woman looking fantastic. Or you might mix and match eye makeup colors,
combining eye shadows in your clothing colors with a
shadow or eyeliner in one of your neutral colors or a
shadow or eyeliner in one of your eye colors.
up
incorrectly; the second, the
For example,
ing
who
is
green-eyed
wearing
woman
with Muted color-
purple dress might wear
soft
purple shadow and duplicate the green in her eyes with
soft green eyeliner.
Eyeliner and Mascara.

better in
brown mascara
be used provided
78
COLOR WONDERFUL
look.
Navy and
it
Many Muted
color types look
than they do in black. Black
may
does not give you a harsh or unnatural
other dark colors
may
be used for special
fashion
Use
effects.
eyeliners
in
any of your charted
smudge
colors. Just be certain to diffuse the line
particularly
it
the color
is
dark
it
in value.
Darker vs. Lighter Color Values, hi deciding whether

to wear a dark, medium, or light value of your best
makeup
your
colors, take
outfit, the occasion, the
time of
day, your eye shape, and your hair color into account.
For example,
Muted
dark-haired
color type can wear
makeup that is darker and applied a little more

than Muted color types who have lighter hair and
gentler coloring.
dressed,
You
it
is
daytime and you are casually
could achieve
colors
more medium
go so
light
makeup
hand
values of your
a lighter
makeup
tones.
Be
and pale that you look washed-
out like our model in Plate 38.

full
or lighter
instead of your darker
careful not to
liner,
makeup is more
made-up effect
this less
by applying your usual makeup with
or by wearing
best
if
you'll probably feel that less
appropriate.
either
Or
heavily
slightly
Though Betty
is
wearing
(foundation, blush, lipstick, eyeshadow, eye-
and mascara),
enough of it to enhow
See
much more radiant
there's just not
hance her Muted coloring.
medium contrast look is

women with Muted
ideal for
Photo 5.8, Betty's
coloring. In
sweater has stripes of toned-
down
correct
blue-green and rust.
makeup
eyes, cheeks,
The
tones on her
and
lips
a balanced, radiant
give Betty
glow.
she looks in Plate 39.
Medium makeup
tones are always appropriate for con-
servative business dress as well as for daytime and eve-
ning casual looks. Lighter tones of lipstick give more of
nonmakeup look that is strictly casual. Lighter eye shadows are most often used as highlighters and placed in
different places
on the eye depending on the shape of the
eye and the effect you are seeking.
Wear your darker

dressier
wish
tones of lipstick and eye
makeup
for
daytime and evening occasions or anytime you
to create a particular
high fashion look. However,
you're a Muted/Gentle color type,

you'll get that overly
made-up
Blushes can be purchased in
don't overdo
it
medium
Coordinating Your
Makeup and
To
how
makeup and
or
look.
or dark values.
Apply them lightly or more strongly depending on

effect you want.
give you an idea
if
best to
the
Clothing Colors
mix and match your
clothing colors, we're going to describe sev-
Muted Coloring
79
with some suggestions about the makeup you
eral outfits
might wear
You
accompany them.
to
wearing
are
medium brown
color that matches your hair

rust belt
and necklace, brown hoisery and shoes, and
are
two of your makeup
color.
to
options:
keep your eye look neutral would be to
cream-color highlighter, gray eye shadow tones,
brown
with
cream blouse,
One way
wear
pair ot slacks
a
brown handbag.
rust or
Here
w^th
medium
On
with just
to
medium-dark
coral
and polish
lip
your cheeks, your best medium red tone mixed

a hint
A more
and brown mascara. Complete the look
eyeliner,
of your coral Up color
if
you wish.
colorful and contrasting effect could be achieved
with eye shadows of purple or blue-green with the same
cream-tone highlighter. The other colors remain
as
de-
scribed above.
Your outtu consists of a medium red dress with a necklace made by twisting a gold chain and a strand of
turquoise beads together. Your earrings are textured
You are wearing skin-tone stockings and

medium brown shoes. Your purse is either brow'n or
gold hoops.
red.
And your makeup?

For a stronger eye effect, good eye shadow colors
would be shades of medium brown and turquoise with a
cream or skin tone highlighter, turquoise eye
brown mascara. A more
conservative option
the turquoise and stay with the
medium brown shadows
to
and
drop
cream highlighter and
Your
exclusively.
mascara would be brown. Your
liner,
is
eyeliner and
cheek, and nail color
lip,
need to match the red shade of your dress.
Suppose you have on

and
a pair
of
deep green sweater. The outfit
further
by
'
COLOR lVO\DERFL'L
color.
is
purple slacks
pulled together
green, purple, and cream print scarf, sheer
purple hose, purple shoes, and

80
medium
purse in your hair
With
ensemble, your best eye shadow colors repeat
this
the purple and/or green tones of your clothing. Again,
wear
cream or skin tone highlighter. Your eyeliner
could be purple and/or blue-green. For mascara, either

use
brown
your best
plum,
or
lip.
fashion shade of dark purple. In this case,
cheek,
and
colors are any of your
nail
coral, or red tones.
You're dressed conservatively tor business: a brown

and a beige blouse accessorized with a gold neck-
suit
lace,
skin-tone hose, and
brown
shoes and purse.
To compliment this outfit, one suggestion would

eye shadows of medium brown and gray, with a gray
brown
and
be
or
and brown mascara. Brush your cheeks

medium red shade. Either match
eyeliner,
with your best
lips
that red shade for nail color or use a clear nail polish. If
your eyes
are greenish, bluish, or blue-green,
you could
wear a very subtle touch of your eye color with the
brown or gray shadow
as a subtle
eye
liner.
Hair Coloring
When
woman
with Muted coloring colors her
should avoid the two most
common
the hair color too brassy; and
mistakes:
hair,
(1)
giving the hair too
(2)
she
making
much
ash tone.
Our
remembers
associate Caryl Krannich
had two
clients
the
mistake. Both
first
within the space of
women
the time she
week, both making
were Muted color types
with pink-brown beige skin, yet they had added brassy

gold tones to their
"In each case,
tell
hair.
demonstrated
session that there
was
in a
kind of show-and-
dissonance between the
client's
pink-toned skin and golden-toned hair," Caryl explains.
by matching each woman's skin and hair

colors to color chips, then placing them next to each
other. They didn't look good. Once my client could see
the conflict, I had her look in a hand mirror, noting that
same conflict in her body colors."
"I
did this
Since both her clients wished to keep their lightened

hair color rather
than darken
it,
Caryl suggested that
Muted
Cohritif^
81
they change the blond shade to
blond
was more complimentary
that
Many
champagne or beige
to their skin tone.
of our associates deal with just the opposite
who
problem: people with Muted coloring
have light-
ened their hair to blond shades that were too ash

It
in tone.
then becomes our associates' problem to help these
women fmd
way
satisfactory
to fix their hair color
mistakes.
One
client
wanted
and add highlights
to return to her natural hair color
to brighten
who was
advised her to use
guide. Another client,
lightening her gray hair, wanted to return to a
brown shade
We
color.
We
it.
the camel shade on her chart as
but not
a color as
dark
as
her original hair
advised her to color her hair to match the
medium brown
shade on her chart,
lovely with her skin tone.

tion, for this client
now
It
shade that looks
was the
recommenda-
right
looks lively and vibrant instead
of drab and washed-out.
A Muted
color type
who
wants
change her hair
to
color has three choices. She can choose to be a blond, a
redhead, or
those colors.
brunette provided she
Here
are
Red Hair. You
some
selects the right
shade of
guidelines:
will look the
most natural
as a
redhead
your original hair color has an apparent reddish highlight and you match it exactly. (Reread "Determining
if
Your Main Hair Color and Highlights"

Otherwise,
rust,
we
in
Chapter
1.)
suggest you color your hair to your best
rust-brown, or copper shade
in short, a
shade that
keeps your skin looking clear and radiant. Let your color
chart and skin tone be your guide.
Blond.
An
appropriate blond shade can be chosen by
repeating the beige tone of your skin in your hair color. If
your
hair has natural
can be matched to create

effect.
and
1,
may
camel highlights, then you
lighten your hair to that camel shade.

a
Caramel highlights
caramel or strawberry blond
(Note the camel and caramel highlights

respectively.) Definitely avoid ash
in Plates
39
blond shades
and brassy golden blonds. Honey or golden blond shades

are fine provided
you have golden tones
in
your
skin.
Brunette. Great care must be taken to choose

that
new
is
hair color look natural.
Choose
darker verson of your beige skin color

82
COLOR WONDERFUL
shade
enhancing to your skin tone. Only then will your

a
brown
that
the camels,
dium browns, and darker browns on your
chart.
is
me-
Your Muted
know how
coloring
levels ot contrast to help
ing and makeup.
you can apply

cast
your
is
truly unique,
and you
to use colors in their best shades, clarities,
own
all
You
ot
special
you look
terrific in
now
and
your cloth-
III, where
your new knowledge and learn to
and fabulous color spell!
are ready to begin Part
Muted Coloring
83
Chapter 6
Wardrobe Advice for

Gentle Coloring
The
you wear have
colors
You probably
our Color
He
relates
the
wrong
potent effect on other people.
don't even realize
associate in
Camp
but Peter A. Willms,
it,
Hill,
Pennsylvania, does.
when you don

you can actually
those around you.
an anecdote demonstrating that

colors for your color type,
induce unwanted negative behavior in

Peter's wife
Mary
is
a schoolteacher.
Until Peter did
her color chart, she had a habit of wearing colors that did
with her natural Gentle coloring. They were
battle
much
and she often combined colors in ways that

created too strong a level of contrast.
When her colors were toned down, she remained dubitoo
clear,
ous until her friends started showering her with compliments.
Then
atmosphere
she began to notice something
in her
else.
The
classroom had changed. Her students'
behavior improved markedly, and she was able to maintain
better discipline.
more
visual
affected
Improved
how
Mary's case
COLOR nOXDERFlJL
image gave her
her students responded to her teaching.

isn't
unique.
Women
often err in the direction of too

84
visual
power, confidence, and positive energy, which
same time wearing
with Gentle coloring
much
contrast, at the
colors that are too bright and clear.
'Ji'i
MUTED
GENTLE
Muted Color Type. Our associate Lin

Marie of Portland, Oregon, is an
exquisite Muted color type. Here
Gentle Color Type. Patti Sparks,
she is shown dressed in a creamcolored silk and lace dress. She

chooses a muted red shade for blush
rose and cream colors
and
also a light rose.
lipstick.
Light-Bright Color Type.
Perham,
Brenda
a professional singer,
Newport Beach,
ate,
models
our
California, associ-
a lace dress in pale
dusty
wonderful
shades to showcase her Gentle

coloring. Her lip and cheek color
is
Color 1 associate
Dolly Boyd of Los Angeles has the
Contrast Color Type.
makeup
striking dark-light coloring typical
stylist
of her color type. This dress of

black velvet with the pure white
collar is just the kind of high-
lace
contrast outfit that looks radiant

women with Contrast coloring.
on
Her
artist, and photographer's

from California, has LightBright coloring that is framed to
best advantage by the pure white
lace dress she is wearing. But her
look would not be complete without the bright accent of clear red
blush and lipstick. Her coloring
requires that extra splash of a
bright
clarity.
makeup
clear red
is
equally
dynamic
cheek and
strong
lip color.
SKIN TONES
When you
arc analyzing
your skin
tone, there are three considerations:
the shade; the undertones (are they
pink or golden?); and your complexion's lightness or darkness. The

four skin-tone strips on the left side
of this photo are examples of shades
where pink tones predominate.
These nine
strips
^*f iftvi- s!:"#.-s."=;
Those on the right arc examples ot

shades where golden tones predominate. Note that the four gradations
on each strip of color go trom light
to dark examples of the same shade.
Some women develop deep tans that

approximate these darker color values.
of color depict
specific skin tones,
the pinker tones
:;
moving from
on the
left to
the
golden tones on the right. From

let~t to right, they are: (1) the very
lightest pink porcelain to the deeper
shade of pink ivory; (2) a pale pinkbrown beige to a darker version ot
the same; (3) a porcelain to a darker
porcelain, usually called ivory;
(4) a light
golden-brown beige
to a
darker version of the same; (5) a

light golden porcelain to a golden
ivory;
(6) a light
golden-brown
beige to a darker version of the

same; (7) a golden porcelain to a
light clear golden; (8) a light olive to
a medium-dark olive; and (9) a light
clear
golden to
a clear
golden
olive.
CAUCASIAN SKIN TONES
These seven color

black
women's
strips represent
skin tones.
Again
the shades with pink tones are
the left and the more

golden tones on the right. Moving
from the left side of the fan to the
shown on
on the color
from dark pink-brown
pink-brown camel; (2) light pink-
right, the actual shades

strips are: (1)
to
brown
beige to
medium
ivory-
beige; (3) black-brown to light

brown-beige; (4) medium-dark
brown
to
medium-toned
clear
ivory;
(5)
golden camel to clear golden

ivory; (6) clear golden brown to
clear golden beige; and (7) light
clear
golden-brown beige
to
medium
BLACK SKIN TONES
ivory beige.
The top
shows
fan of color strips
clear red shades
ranging from coral tones on

the left to blue-red tones
on the right.
The lower fan shows
toned-down reds, again the
coral tones on the left and
blue-red tones on the right.
LIP
COLORS
Lin Marie, our Color 1 associate in Portland, Oregon, is

a lovely example of Muted
coloring.
Here she
is
shown
wearing clothing and makeup

colors that
enhance her natural
toned-down blue
and purple eye shadows and
nnited red lip and cheek color
coloring: her
SKIN COLOR
pick up the dusty blue, red,
and purple tones

and medium blue
Altogether,
Muted
MAIN HAIR COLOR
it's
of her scarf
dress.
a fabulous
look.
MUTED
niiH
SECOND HAIR COLOR
MAIN EYE COLOR
DARK NEUTRALS
SECOND EYE COLOR
GREEN
GREEN-BLUE
BLUE-GREEN
BLUE
BLUE-PURPLE
Myrt Arthur, our
associate in
San Mateo, California,

beautijitl
She
is
is
Gentle color type.
dressed in two of her
ideal colors: a slii^htly toned-
down pink jacket with
purple blouse, accented with
SKIN COLOR
a strin<^ of pearls.
shadow
Her eye
colors are uarious
shades ofpurple, and her
cheek and
down
lip color is
a toned-
raspberry.
10
GENTLE
MAIN HAIR COLOR
SECOND HAIR COLOR
MAIN EYE COLOR
SECOND EYE COLOR
WHITE
GRAY
DARK NEUTRALS
GREEN-BLUE
BLUE-GREEN
BLUE
PLUM
PURPLE
BLUE-PURPLE
RASPBERRY
CORAL
ORANGE
An
exciting^
example of Lightis Jeanne
Bfight coloring
Schoenjeld, our associate in
Del Mar/La Jolla area of

Southern California. Jeanne
the
models a dotted blouse, which
SKIN COLOR
showcases the colors of clear

red and pure white. Her earrings are also
pure white. The
shadow on her eyes is in clear

bluish tones, and her lipstick
and blush are a clear red,
bright but at the same time
light-looking.
LIGHT/BRIGHT
MAIN HAIR COLOR
SECOND HAIR COLOR
MAIN EYE COLOR
SECOND EYE COLOR
WHITE
GRAY
DARK NEUTRALS
GREEN
GREEN-BLUE
BLUE
BLUE-GREEN
BLUER-GREEN
Ml*--.
PURPLE
??%,
BLUE-PURPLE
RED-PURPLE
RASPBERRY
"Ss^r:^?
CORAL
ORANGE
Helene Mills, one of our assoLos Anqeles, exenipiliftes the drama of

ciates in
Contrast coloring. She
is
dressed in a clear, bright pur-
ple blouse worn as a jacket
SKIN COLOR
over a bright green mantailored shirt, accessorized
with a black onyx necklace.
Her eye shadow

tion oj clear
green.
is
combina-
purple and clear
The final makeup

medium
touches are a clear
red
blush and a lip color of clear
mediuni-dark
red.
12
CONTRAST
MAIN HAIR COLOR
SECOND HAIR COLOR
MAIN EYE COLOR
SECOND EYE COLOR
WHITE
GRAY
DARK NEUTRALS
GREEN
Emmaline Jansing, from Lake San

an example of
with Muted
coloring. Here she models a toneddown, dark purple jacket and a soft
yellow blouse. Her earrings and pin
repeat the two colors of her outfit.
For eye shadow, Emmaline chose
various toned-down shades of
purple. Her lip and cheek color is
Marcos, California,
gray-haired
is
woman
medium toned-down
Marguerite Melton, from San Bernardino, California, is a Gentle

color type. The colors of this outfit
toned-down coral
combined with an off-white
blouse. Her eye shadow colors are
understated yet enhancing. Her
blush is a toned-down pink color,
are ideal for her: a
jacket
and her
lipstick
is
deeper value of
toned-down pink-coral.
red.
MUTED
GENTLE
13
^^
14
16
15
CONTRAST
LIGHT/BRIGHT
Evelyn Ford, a Color 1 Associates'
client and coauthor Judy LewisCrum's mother, is an excellent
example of a Light-Bright color type
whose
hair
is
now
red of her jacket
gray.
The
bright
repeated in her
earrings. Her pale gray blouse, in
turn, matches the gray tones of her
hair. Her eye shadow colors are clear
grays, and she wears a clear red
shade on her lips and cheeks.
is
Sally Wilder, an associate in Fort

Worth, Texas, is an example of a
salt-and-pepper gray-haired woman

with Contrast coloring. The clear
bright red blouse combined with the
large-pattern red, white, and black
scarf creates the strong contrast
effect that looks so
women
handsome on
For
eye shadow she chooses clear tones,
and for cheek and lip color she
wears a clear bright red.
with
Sally's coloring.
Marilyn Overton of Riverside, California, is wearing colors in the right

clarities and level of contrast to
enhance her Muted coloring. Her
toned-down purple
medium
suit jacket cre-
of contrast next
to her cream-colored blouse. Her
makeup underscores the look: She
wears pale purple and gray eye
shadows, a medium toned-down
red lip color, and a lighter version of
ates a
the
level
same red on her cheeks.
Grace Washington proves that black

women, too, have Gentle coloring.
She is dressed in a medium dusty
blue blouse set off by a scarf with
stripes of blue, pink, yellow, and
white. Pink cheek and lip tones
complement her Gentle

pink-brown skin.
beautifully
MUTED
GENTLE
18
Pifr 41^
17
19
/^l
20
wyy/.v
'f?^R
LIGHT/BRIGHT
CONTRAST
Bennetta Butler is a black woman

with Light-Bright coloring. She
wears a white shirt and multistriped
nautical scarf showcasing the clear
bright shades of white, blue, green,
yellow, red, and navy. The clear
medium tones of her eye shadow
pick up on several of the scarf
colors. Her lipstick and blush are
Reeta Bess-Barnes, a professional

model from Los Angeles, is wearing
a large-pattern black and white
blouse with bold earrings to match.
Clear deep lipstick and blush complement her Contrast coloring.
clear red shades.
dorities of Green.
a catch.ill
The word "green"
shades and
photo
of green
clarities, hi this
you
see different clarities

similar shades. The fabric
is
is
term referring to various
on
subdued; the middle one
is
the
in
left
bright clarity; and the right one
is
toned down.
Clarities of
Red.
Here are examples

of three different
clarities of red in
Clarities of Blue.
The
similar shades.
The fabric on the
left
depicted go from
a subdued blue
represents a
subdued
The
on the
red.
red in the
is
just slightly
toned down.
left
clear,
to a
bright
blue in the center
middle is clear
and bright. The
red on the right
clarities
to a
1
toned-down
blue on the right.
These blouses are all the same shade

of coral red, but they range in value
from light (left) to dark (center) to
medium
(right).
VALUES
Contrast Levels and Print Sizes.
These
swatches on the
left
are
examples of
the strongest level of contrast. The

black and beige swatches on the
right represent a
medium
level
of
contrast.
The second
variable
shown here
is
print size. Contrast color types look
best in strong and
medium
levels
although really tiny patterns

only look good on women with
Gentle coloring. Contrast and
Light-Bright color types can also
wear black and beige because it
creates a medium level of contrast.
But on a Contrast color type, the
black and beige pattern should be
these,
four fabrics depict two levels of

contrast. The black and white
of
medium
to large in scale.
Light-Bright color type,

be medium to small.
On
it
should
contrast. But, ideally, that contrast

should be contained in a large- to
medium-bold
print.
Hence,
women
with Contrast coloring would look

enhanced in the fabric on the upper
left. Contrast color types can only
wear the small black and white
pattern on the lower left if they add
a
bright solid-colored accent.
Light-Bright color types can also
wear strong and medium contrast

levels, but they cannot wear them
in
large-scale prints. Thus, the fabric
on the lower
left
would be
suitable
for them.
25
The
black and beige fabric

swatches on the right are small to
medium in scale and represent a
medium level of contrast. Muted

and Gentle color types can wear
CONTRASTS
3*^-
of the
have an overall
"muted" look about them. The clarities are toned down, the contrast
levels range from medium to soft or
blended, and the prints range from
Fabrics for
Muted
Coloring. All
fabrics pictured
26
medium-large
Note
to small in scale.
that there
any of the
is
no pure white
in
fabrics.
MUTED
28
MUTED WARDROBE
JoAnn Grose, our Color
m Mill
is
wearing an outfit that
for her dramatic
The
associate
Valley, California, (Plate 27)
color
Muted
is all
wrong
coloring.
scheme of her top
clear
bright purple, black, and pure
white is too strong a contrast.

People will notice Jo Ann's blouse
before they look at her face. JoAnn 's
makeup
makeup
Her eye
too pale and her lips too
bright, creating an all-mouth,
is
also incorrect.
is
washed-out-eyes look.
What
a difference the right colors
make! In the photo on the right

(Plate 28), JoAnn is wearing an
outfit in toned-down versions of red
and teal blue. Her red blouse proves
that redheads can wear red provided
it's the right shade and clarity of red.
Her eye shadows pick up the teal
tones of her skirt, while her blush
and lipstick repeat the toned-down
red of her blouse.
Fabrics for Gentle Coloring.
rics
shown
women
The
with Gentle coloring.
clarities are
The
dued.
from
All the fab-
are excellent choices for
levels
soft to
toned-down
Why?
to sub-
29
of contrast range
medium. And
designs are tiny to
medium
the
in scale.
GENTLE
f
30
31
i
GENTLE
WARDROBE
How much
more alive and excitMyrt looks in Plate 31. The
Myrt Arthur's Gentle coloring is

overwhelmed by the dark-bright
ing
color combination in Plate 30.
reason: She's wearing the shades,
(Myrt
clarities,
our San Mateo, California,

associate.) The bright yellow-gold
is
too intense in color, as well

for her. Also,
the medium and dark tones on her
eyes, cheeks, and lips create an
blouse
as the
overly
is
wrong shade
made-up
look.
and
levels
of contrast de-
signed to enhance her coloring. The

toned-down yellow suit with the
gray collar trim and bow create a
medium level of contrast. To bring
out her eyes, she is wearing medium

to light shades of gray eye shadow.
Her cheek and lip color is a toned-
down
red.
Fabrics for Light-Bright Coloring.
These
arc typical fabrics that a Light-
Bright color type might wear.

Wouldn't you agree that they have a
"light and bright" look about them?
This
because the colors are all

clear and bright as well as being
is
medium
to light in value.
the colors are
None
ot
toned-down or overly
intense-looking.
The
sizes
of the
various prints range from medium

to small, while the levels of contrast
within the prints range from
LIGHT/BRIGHT
medium
to strong.
33
34
LIGHT/BRIGHT WARDROBE
To look
The
their most enhanced, LightBright color types need to wear

bright clarities. Jeanne Schoenfeld,
in Plate 34.
our Color
Del Mar,
wearing just the
opposite in Plate 33. The bronzecolored dress is a bad shade and
does nothing for Jeanne's LightBright coloring. Another problem
illustrated here: Jeanne is wearing
makeup that is too dark in tone and
bright color scheme in her outfit.
too heavily applied.
and
California,
associate in
is
is demonstrated
Jeanne has, in effect,
duplicated her natural light and
correct look
She wears a pure white skirt and

camisole combined with a bright
bluejacket and accessorized with a
bright gold neckband and bracelet.
On her eyes, she wears mediumtoned blue shadows and a clear but
light-looking red on her cheeks
lips.
Fabrics for Contrast Coloring. This

eye-popping collection of fabric
swatches only a woman with Con-
trast coloring could wear. The

bright colors and large, bold scale of
many of the designs would over-
power women with any other type

of coloring. But women with Contrast coloring need such patterns in
strong levels of contrast and bright
or intense colors to look their most
enhanced.
CONTRAST
37
36
Hw
CONTRAST WARDROBE
Jennifer Ho's dramatic Contrast
Contrast coloring. Neither are two
not showcased to best

advantage in the pale blue and white
light colors
coloring
is
Can you
same
worn
together.
believe Jennifer
is
the
woman when you
rose cheek and lip color
look at her
in Plate 37? The black jumper, clear
deep purple blouse, and purple, red,
and blue scarf bring Jennifer's natural coloring to life. This dark-bright
combination is fabulous for Con-
nifer
trast color types. Jennifer has
models in Plate 36.

one of our associates in
floral dress she
(Jennifer
is
the San Francisco area.) In fact, tL:

dress
combined with the matching

shadow and soft dusty
pale blue eye
make Jenlook downright insignificant.

Dainty little prints are not the
province of the woman with
repeated her outfit's colors in her
makeup.
With her Muted coloring, Betty

Sobhn our Castro Valley. Califorlooks washed out in
nia, associate
makeup
colors that are too pale. In
the photo
is
blouse set off by a scarf, also bluegreen with accent colors of yellowgold and rust. Her toned-down eye
shadow colors pick up on the blouse
on the
and
left (Plate 38), this
Betty's problem.
The "faded
scart colors.
Her medium
coral-
red lipstick and blush give Betty a

radiant glow.
is further exacerbated by a
blouse whose colors are too
blended-looking for her. Muted
color types need gutsier color com-
look"
binations.
The oomph
photo
is
lacking in the
tirst
present in the one on the
right (Plate 39).
Here Betty
is
wear-
ing the right clothing and makeup

to enhance her Muted coloring: a
slightly
RIGHT
toned-down blue-green
WRONG
38
MUTED MAKEUP
39
Because of her Gentle coloring,

Myrt Arthur, our San Mateo, California, associate, runs the risk of
looking too heavily made up if she
wears dark tones of makeup. That's
one of her problems in Plate 40.
Here you see her wearing a blend of
dark blue, gray, and purple eye
shadow, a clear pink-red blush, and
a bright but deep shade of lipstick.
The bright colors and strong contrasts of her outfit are equally disturbing. There is nothing Gentle
about this look!
The difference between night and
day is the way we'd characterize the
difference between Photos 40 and 41.
In the latter photo, Myrt has

created an exciting complement to
her natural coloring: Her eye shad-
ows
consist of
toned-down medium
shades of light blue, purple, and

peach. Her blush is a toned-down
medium
is
pink.
Her
lipstick
shade
a pink-coral. She's dressed in a
toned-down coral blouse with

coral and creamy white scarf.
HIGHT
41
\NR0N6
40
GENTLE MAKEUP
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At
glance you may wonder

label this look "Wrong."
model does look attractive, but
first
why we
Our
not smashing! Not only is Helenc

Mills's eye shadow too pale for her
Contrast coloring (Plate 44), but it's
also too toned-down a color for her.
She is far more enhanced by using
clear colors. Her cheek and lip
colors are
sons.
wrong
Her blouse,
tor the
too,
is
same
just
rea-
In Plate 45 we see Hclene, one of

our Los Angeles area associates,
with clear blue and plum eye
shadow tones and a clear plum red
color on her lips and cheeks. Her
outfit repeats her makeup colors and
consists of a bright-on-bright combination in a medium level of contrast.
We'd
call this a
spectacular
Contrast look!
a little
too pale.
WGHT
WRONG
44
CONTRAST MAKEUP
45
This array of clear, bright color

clarities 28 in all comprises the
color chart of Jennifer Ho (Plate
46).
46
When you have your color chart

done by a Color 1 associate, a
Personal Color Harmony folder
displaying your colors as well as
an accordion-fold pocket shopping
guide will be created just for you.^
Both are depicted in Plate 47.
47
JENNIFER NO'S COLOR CHART
Another client, with ivory skin and red hair, dressed as

she had Contrast coloring until she realized the subtle
power of Gentle color combinations. Where her color
choices were once overwhelming and jarring, now they're
subtly vibrant and glowing. Since she is president of a
if
hair styling studio, she finds her
new
image, capped off
by her marvelously coiffured hair, an excellent advertisement for her business.

Famous women who have Gentle coloring include
Candice Bergen, Meryl Streep, Faye Dunaway, Jane
Pauley, and Linda Evans.
Your Best Color
Clarities
The most enhancing
clarity for a
Gentle color type to
toned-down. The next best clarity is subdued.

Only those rare women with Gentle/Light-Bright coloring can wear bright clarities. On them, that clarity looks
wear
is
beautiful.
To
see
how
out of place bright colors look on the
typical Gentle color type,
look
at
the right and
wrong
photographs, Plates 30 and 31, and 40 and 41.
Gentle color type can wear pure white, but only in
small amounts in a print or as
wearing
skirt,
a solid
let's
say
trim.
a plain
expanse of white
we
When you
are
white blouse or
caution you to stick with your best
white, which will be slightly off-white.
To
review color
clarities,
study Plates 21-23.
Your Best Level of Contrast
decade ago, when the notion of the "power look" for

businesswomen the dark navy suit worn with the stark
white blouse was promulgated, a large cross-section of
women were misled. Among them were women with
Gentle coloring, who are overpowered by this strong
contrast combination.
Gentle
Coloriii'^
85
Best Clarity of Colors for Gentle Color Types

Color Type
Adding an Accent Color

What about
accent colors?
Gentle color type can wear
tone look
all
one color
the mono-
with or without the addition of an
example, our model
accent. For
would look wonderful
in Plate 18
in
her blue from head to toe, even without the addition of

the scarf.
Your Best Neutrals

Some women wear
navy, brown,
dark green
a lot
is
camel,
No
it
isn't.
shades and
black,
gray,
6.2
camel, beige, white, burgundy, or
rust,
because
camel
of neutral colors
it
makes them
feel safe.
After
all,
isn't it?
Neutrals, such as camel,
come
in various
and values just as other colors do.

wear neutrals in the right shade, clarity, and
dark or light value to emphasize your rich yet Gentle
natural coloring. In addition, you must always create the
right level of contrast for your color type when you
combine neutrals with other colors in the outfits you
You have
clarities
to
wear.
If you have Gentle coloring, you won't want to be
without your creamy whites, beiges, camels, and light to
medium grays for clothing as well as accessories. These
light and medium neutrals coordinate well with all the
other dark, medium, and light colors on your color chart
with three glaring exceptions. As we mentioned earlier,
most
women
form with
with Gentle coloring cannot wear white
the dark neutrals
(Compare Photos
is
far
any
of black, navy, or dark brown.
The
6.3 and 6.4.)
combinations create
in
of contrast these
too strong for a Gentle color
level
lighter
and medium neutrals,
Gentle color
type can assemble sophisticated outfits that will look stun-
ning any month ot the year no matter where she
what the
How
you want
displays the correct look
Gentle color type
in
Photo 6.2. This time, you notice
Myrt's face, not just her
dress.
The
colors
of the
dress are
aqua hhte and raspberry pink.
to create an
and small-sized print are extremely effective with Myrt's
col-
oring. Also effective are the
lives or
climate.
Let's say
for a
This medium level of contrast
type's delicate coloring.
Using her
Myrt
autumn or winter
look.
medium
tones of eye shadows,
lipstick,
and blush she
is
wear-
ing here.
about these combinations?
Wear
off-white slacks with a rust sweater and a plaid
jacket of off-white, rust, and camel.

ble with an ivory necklace,
matching
rust shoes
Complete
the
ensemand
sheer off-white hose,
and purse.
Gentle Coloring
87
Don
same
the
white hose, but
pair of off-white slacks
and sheer
time coordinate them with
this
off-
medium
medium
gray blouse and
red jacket. At the neck, wear a

same ivory necklace, and choose
strand of pearls, or the
matching red shoes and purse for accessories.

and summer, picture yourself
In the spring
in a light
Your necklace
gray linen skirt and
a light
and
and your shoes, purse, and hosiery
belt are in coral,
blue blouse.
your skin-tone beige.
are gray or
summer
For another spring and
effect,
you might coor-
dinate a camel linen suit with a pale pink blouse, pale
camel or beige shoes, hose, and purse, and camel-colored
wooden beads
But
We'd
neck.
at the
and medium neutrals are not your only choices.
light
introduce you to all the available neutrals

medium, and light and discuss how you can incorporate them all into your wardrobe.
Black. Not all women with Gentle coloring can wear
like to
dark,
black effectively.
If
you can wear
wear
it.
black,
you must be
expanse of black
solid
is
careful
how you
almost guaranteed to
look too heavy on you unless you add the leavening effect
of
medium
to light
said, that light color
toned-down
color.
But, as we've
cannot be any form of white, as this
me-
creates far too strong a level of contrast. Also, the
dium value
color cannot be too bright or intense (as in
Plate 30).
how do you
So
Keep
in
mind
deal with black?
your objective
that
is
other dark neutrals like navy or dark
or
make black
brown appear
to
as
delicate as possible.
One
sure-fire
way
to take
wear very
is
to
httle
print scarf or blouse,
need
example
of
some of
the wallop out of
of black in a
Another way is to
always wear a light or medium accent color near your
face. Pearls won't do because they are white, although
rose quartz beads might do the trick. Some of you may
black
it
for instance.
more pronounced item
third
to tone
down
way
to
is
chest area. If
you
buttons open
at
are
a little bit
the powerful effect of black.
expose
a lot
wearing
of skin
COLOR WONDERFUL
in the
neck and
black blouse, leave a few
the neck. For evening a sheer and/or lacy
blouse that enables your skin tone to

88
blouse or scarf, for
show through
very delicate look. For most Gentle color types,
has a
black
turtleneck will be too dark and heavy-looking with your
and gentle coloring.

Even if you can wear black, we do not recommend
accessorizing outfits with black shoes, hosiery, or purses
soft
somewhere
unless your outfit incorporates black
You
cannot use black shoes,
for example,
as
in
it.
basic
go-with-everything shoe color.
We
once had
insisted that
blonds look
terrific in
Black made her look ghostlike.
didn't.
who
blond Gentle/Light-Bright chent
all
Only she
Not even makeup
black.
and correctly applied could counteract

on her. Unfortunately, her wardrobe was awash with black everything from black T-shirts
to evening dresses. Naturally, this woman was quite upin the right colors
black's negative effect
set
w^hen she was told black did not look good on her.
However, being
good
wear-
sport, she agreed to stop
ing black and give the colors on her chart

three months, she reported
how happy
After
try.
was now that

on her newfound
pale, and worn-
she
people were complimenting her regularly

sense of color. She no longer looks old,
out before her time.

If
black does compliment your Gentle coloring, try

black
skirt,
pink sv/eater, and
pattern of pink, black, and gray.
scarf in a delicate
Finish off the look
with sheer gray hose and black shoes and purse.

A beige suit, black blouse that you leave open
at
the
neck, a turquoise necklace twisted around an ivory necklace,
and
turquoise earrings, skin-toned hose, and black shoes

a
black purse.
Camel. This is an extremely useful neutral for women

with Gentle coloring, particularly if the woman's hair has
an obvious camel tone or highlights. If it does, those are
the shades of camel to match. If it doesn't, your best
shade of camel will be a darker version of your skin tone.
The beauty of camel is that it coordinates with all the
dark,
medium, and
lighter values
well as with your best neutrals.
of your best colors
You
will
want
to
as
own
both dressy and casual shoes in your camel.

Picture yourself in one of these ensembles:
camel
suit
coral, blue,
worn with
blouse in either pale
Complete the outfit with camel

handbag and skin-tone hosiery, and a
or plum.
shoes, a camel
gold chain
a pastel
at
the neck.
Gentle Colorim^
89
Or how
about the same camel
suit
worn with
You
value blouse in red, green, or yellow?

the outfit with the
same
medium-
could adorn
accessories and actually look
quite different because of the blouse substitution.
try
Finally,
camel
skirt
or slacks with a turquoise
blouse, gold jewelry at the neck, a camel belt with a
moderate-sized gold buckle, skin-tone hose, and camel

shoes and purse.
Gray. Gray
in
medium
its
to lighter incarnations
another neutral rivaling camel in

coordinates exquisitely with
its
usefulness.
with
"executive look" (photo 6.3)
a
good one
for
is
women whose
Her makeup
It's
worn
super shoe,
when your
hair has gray or white in
it.
Visualize yourself in these combinations:
Myrt Arthur's
Gentle coloring cannot. Afid

that's not all that
can be
it
purse, and belt color and will be an absolute necessity
coloring can sustain such a

strong contrast.
of your other best neutrals.
all
too
It
the other light to dark
all
colors on your color chart. In addition,
The dark navy and white
is
is
wrong
here.
Light gray slacks combined with
medium
blue blouse,
and necklace, sheer gray hose,
silver earrings
tones are also too
and shoes that are gray or the color of your
dark and strong.
A medium
gray suit
worn with an
purse
hair.
off-white top
sweater or blouse. Accessorize the outfit with your best
toned-down red in jewelry, a

handbag and hosiery are gray.
Navy. Much
that
we
said
belt,
and shoes. Your
about black applies with
equal force to navy.

If
you
going to wear navy, make
are
and delicate-looking
effects
we
Navy
as
Navy
outlined earher.
unless navy
is
it
appear as soft
possible using the trompe
as
shoes are not to be
I'oeil
worn
incorporated somewhere in the outfit.
can be combined with other darker neutrals such
rust,
deep raspberry, and wine
medium and
lighter colors
exception of white.
If
you
as
well as with the
on your color chart

are
with the
combining navy with any
other dark color, you will probably need to lighten the
look by adding
You may want
COLOR WONDERFUL
medium
to try
one of the following
navy
coral-and-navy print
skirt
to light accent near
and matching sweater

scarf,
your
face.
outfits:
vest, a coral blouse,
and sheer navy or skin-
tone hose, and navy shoes and purse.
Navy
slacks, a beige blouse,
navy
blazer,
sheer navy hose,
beads,
lapis
your toned-down red
in a
and navy
shoes and purse.
Browns. While medium-dark to lighter browns in your

smashing on all Gentle color types, dark
brown is often a problem, as we've said repeatedly. Like
black and navy, it may be too dark and heavy-looking
best shades look
when worn in large expanses.

If dark brown looks good on you, we still must add a
cautionary note: Be careful when combining it with other
dark colors or dark neutrals such as
combination creates
heavy visual
rust.
Such
dark-dark
effect overall,
which
is
Most
diametrically opposed to your delicate coloring.
dark-dark combinations need to be lightened and softened by the addition of
Your
best
browns
a lighter
will
or
medium
match your
\e.\t
accent.
hair color or be a
look"
suit
time she
darker version ot your hair color

colored. This shade of
brown
is
it
your hair
are our suggestions for
light-
an excellent choice for
accessories: shoes, purses, attache cases,
Here
is
and
belts.
some gentle-looking
yet
lovely outfits built around the color brown:
medium-value brown
camel-brown light blue
suit
with
scart.
a light
camel
blue blouse, a
belt,
we
see
Myrt (Photo
6.4) in the same "executive
level
is
and blouse, only
this
wearing a medium
of contrast because the
blouse color
is
a pale, toned-
down coral. In addition, her

makeup is more attractive in this
photo because she's now wearing the right medium to light
tones to suit her coloring.
shoes, and
purse, and skin-tone or sheer camel hosiery.
Light gray slacks and
brown
jacket,
brown
matching sweater,
medium
shoes and purse, and light gray
hose.
Rust. Like brown, rust
worn
ettectively with
all
is
darker neutral that can be
your best neutrals and compli-
mentary colors. However, we suggest you only combine

rust with neutrals and complimentary colors in their me-
dium
to lighter values.
dark-dark
ettect
Otherwise, you will encounter the
we just
described to you.
Rust is not a basic shoe, belt, or purse color for you unless
you have distinct rust tones in your hair. If you are a blond
or brown-haired Gentle color type, only wear rust shoes
when you've incorporated rust elsewhere in your outfit.
Here are some wondertul wavs to utilize rust:
rust purse
and shoes would look handsome when
coordinated with
subtle
tweed jacket of
rust,
cream.
Gentle Coloring
91
and camel worn over a cream skirt and a rust blouse

with a strand of pearls. Your hose would be your skin
tone or
sheer camel shade.
a blue-purple blouse,
Rust
slacks,
with
rust beads,
rust hose,
and
beige jacket
and rust or hair-colored
shoes.
Beiges.
It
sometimes happens
that beige appears
Gentle color type's color chart in two
This
is
because the
beige and
a hair
woman
golden
Should
has a skin tone of one shade of
color in a different shade of beige. For
example: skin with
with
on
ditterent shades.
pinkish cast and blond hair color
cast.
this describe
your coloring, be forewarned:
You
cannot combine those two different beiges in the same

ensemble. You cannot wear golden beige slacks with a
pink-beige blouse, for example. Moreover, clothing worn
in
your
need
hair color beige
that
golden beige
"color break" near your face.
golden beige worn by
will
always
Otherwise, that
not enhance the pink-
itself will
beige of your complexion.
What's
"color break"?
one of your other best colors worn in the form of a

scarf, blouse, or necklace. On a golden beige dress, a
color break might be an off-white collar at the neck and
cuffs at the sleeves. (The concept of the "color break" is
It's
described
at
greater length in Chapter 11.)
Beiges are basic shoe,
with Gentle coloring.
and thus
is
belt,
Why?
and purse colors for women

Because it is your skin tone
already part of every color scheme
Beige coordinates superbly with
all
you
create.
your best dark, me-
dium, and hght colors and neutrals as well. (See how

lovely Myrt Arthur looks in her beige and white blouse
in
Photo
6.8.)
There are hundreds of ways

in beige. Here are two:
for
you
to look
Beige slacks with an off-white blouse,
and earrings
in blue-green,
smashing
a jacket,
belt,
skin-tone hose, and beige
shoes and purse.
Light gray slacks and a
which you wear

a silver
92
COLOR WONDERFUL
purse.
medium
purple blouse over
beige vest. Complete the outfit with
necklace and earrings and gray hose, shoes, and
We
White.
are really referring to a slight off-white here
wear pure white except
since Gentle color types cannot
very small doses
as trim or in
small
amount
in
in prints,
for example.
We've
You
said
it
we
before, but
cannot emphasize
it
enough:
can never wear white, even off-white, with the dark
neutrals of black, navy, or dark
brown. These combina-
would overpower you with your soft coloring.

You can, however, wear your best creamy white with
tions
all
of the other colors and neutrals on your chart, even

rust, and dark blue (but not navy).
with your dark red,
One of
subtle,
Gentle color type's best looks combines the
toned-down shades of white,
beige, camel, and/or
light gray.
We
guarantee you'll look wonderful in any of the
following:
An
you head
outfit that envelops
white.
You
don't even have to add
Your white
in slacks
worn with
to toe in
your best
second-color accent.
medium-dark plum
blouse, an ivory necklace, ivory shoes and purse, and
ivory hose.
Your white
topped off with
in a dress
jacket, a pastel blue, coral,
and white
pastel blue
scarf,
bone hose,
and your white or bone shoes and purse.
Wine and Burgundy.

won't be
It's
flattering to you.
that give the look
very possible these colors
What
will be lovely are colors
of wine and burgundy on you.
often darker values of your

plum should be worn with
These dark reddish shades

best
red,
medium
raspberry,
and
or light-colored garments to avoid that overall
dark-on-dark look that can be oppressive to
women
Gentle coloring. Shoes in these shades are to be
only
if the
color
is
with
worn
incorporated somewhere else in the
outfit.
For example, you might want to wear

or add
a scarf in a lighter
solid dark raspberry dress.
a pearl
necklace
value (rapsberry pink) to a

It
would
also help if
you
accessorized the outfit with bone or sheer pink hose and
shoes and purse either in bone, your skin tone, or your

hair color.
Gentle Coloring
93
Slacks in
dark plum might be coordinated with
gray blouse and pulled together
the neck with
at
a light
plum-
toned beads. Shoes and purse could be your hair color;

hose could be sheer plum. gray, or your skin tone.
Dark Greens. Your
best shade of
forest green can be
an exciting dark neutral for your Gentle coloring. This
dark green works
medium
in
combination with nearly
all
the other
or lighter colors on your chart.
However, should
Gentle color type attempt to
com-
bine her best dark green with another dark neutral
plum-burgundy,
light or
Two
Ei'erythin<^ about the
Arthur wears
conflicts
ing.
is
The
in
Photo 6.5
and white
strong a level of contrast for
And
the pattern
usually need to add a
she'll
accent to the outfit.
great dark green looks are
is
Moreover, her makeup
too bold.
is
Coral slacks and
matching sweater,
dark green jacket,
skin-tone hosiery, and shoes, belt, and purse in a color
stripe
matches your
that
too visibly overpowering, too
her.
medium
say
scarfMyvt
with her Gentle colorblack
let's
Dark green
slacks
hair.
and
plum
blouse, a jacket, shoes,
hose, and purse in light gray, and silver jewelry.
heavy-
looking.
Fabric Textures mid

Te.xture refers to the
fibers in a piece
In general,
of
\\'ei(^lits
weave or
the arrangement oi the
cloth.
smooth and
slightly textured fabrics are the
best choice tor Gentle color types. Finely
some
silk,
tightly
and synthetics such
woven, smooth
seersucker, or a lamb's
slightly textured look.
wide
is
soft
woven
cotton,
nylon are examples of
fabrics. A nubby raw silk fabric,

wool sweater are examples o\ the
In Plate 2 you can see that the
lace adds texture to
the lace
as
our model's
silk dress.
and lightweight-looking,
it
is
Because
wonderful
use of texture for a Gentle color type.
Highly textured
fabrics
you should avoid include wide-
wale corduroy, coarse, rough, burlaplike weaves, and

heavy rough tweeds. The tweeds you can wear are those
that are finer
and
light to
medium
in
weight. But stay
away from all stiff, rough, or very coarse fabrics.

The same fiber cotton or wool, for example comes
in different weights. Your delicate coloring requires that
you remain a loyal supporter of hght and medium-weight
94
COLOR IVOS'DERFLL
fabrics.
If
you
under
like to effect the "layered
look"
example
pullover sweater, for
worn
blouse
make
-just
sure
the end result doesn't look too heavy or thick.
and Designs
Patterns, Prints,
Gentle color type looks her most attractive in prints
ranging from tiny to
medium
in scale.
Actually, tiny prints are unique to

coloring.
stunning.
On
On
it
is
with Gentle
Gentle color type, miniature prints look
everyone
else,
they look unexciting.
Regardless of your height, you

if
women
very blended-lookiiig
may wear
and incorporates
a large print
medium and
smaller-scale designs within the overall large pattern. For
example, you
up of
may
made
find that a large floral or paisley
light beige, light blue, light blue-green,
and
same creamy white
handsome on you because
design's delicacy and the lightness of the colors.
Experiment with
all
types of patterns and prints
florals,
make
sure they adhere to the size parameters and levels of
we
shirt,
light
ot the
checks, dots, geometries, stripes, and plaids. Just
has on
but she's substituted a multicol-
ored scarffeaturing
coral looks extremely
contrast
Myrt
In Photo 6.6,
the
discussed earlier (see Plate 29).
tones.
Such
all pastel
soft contrasts are
made for Gentle color types.

Myrt has also champed her
makeup. In
photo, she's
this
u'carin(^ light to
medium shades
of her best colors.
Should you fail to heed our advice, Photos 6.1 and 6.5
demonstrate how unwise a decision that would be. In
Photos 6.2 and 6.6 you see the same woman doing everything right.
Jewelry
No
matter
how
large your build,
strong enough coloring to carry
you simply do not have

massive, heavy-looking
Be wary of the blandishments of jewelry

who say, "You're lucky. You're tall so you
piece of jewelry.
sales clerks
can wear large pieces of jewelry well."
Should you go ahead and purchase that large necklace

your new knit dress, you might be sorry.
Back home in front of your own mirror, you may be
wailing, "This necklace doesn't look right. It's too prominent. Where did I go wrong?"
If you went wrong, it's because you thought your
height was the only consideration in choosing the size of
a piece of jewelry. You failed to take your Gentle color
to accessorize
type into account.
Gentle Coloritig
95
Here
money
are
some
at the
keep you from wasting
rules that will
jewelry counter:
Small and medium-sized pieces of jewelry
Size.
larger pieces that look light in weight
are your best
or
bet.
Your goal is to avoid the appearance of being weighted

down. The rule o( thumb is this: Never wâr too many
pieces or pieces that are overly large and heavy. In general,
the larger the piece of jewelry, the
lightweight
it
more
should look (see Photos 6.7 and
Metal Colors.
On
airy
and
6.8).
you, the most enhancing metals are
sott-toned gold, white gold, rose gold, copper, slightly

tarnished silver,
and pewter. Stay away from brighter
yellow golds, brass, and bronze unless they are prominent hair colors.
plain
It's
lace
Photo
6.
to .M'f tluit the iiCLi:-
Myrt Arthur wears

7
inent for a
is
too larê
woman
in
and prom-
with Myrt's
colorini^.
Her eye
shadow, cheek, and
lip color
Gentle
is
also too heai'y-lookin<^ to
he attractive.
You may mix
metals on your body
if
you
are
wearing
one piece of jewelry that combines the metals. For exam-
you have on a belt that is studded with gold and

you might wear a silver bracelet and gold earrings.
If your necklace is a mix of white and soft-toned yellowgold, you might wear silver or white gold earrings and a
ple,
if
silver,
soft-toned yellow gold bracelet, or vice versa.
Metal Finishes. Toned-down metals are the most enhancing on you. Both smooth and textured metals are
also fine as long as the piece has
jewelry
is
no
large surface areas that
Large amounts of smooth, shiny
are extremely shiny.
proscribed, definitely off limits to you.
Gems, Semi-Precious
Remain faithful to the
Stones, and
colors
Costume Jewelry.
on your color chart
in
selecting jewelry in these categories.

If
you already own
piece of jewelry in a less than
enhancing shade, take heart.

vided: (1)
outfit;
your
you coordinate
(2) you wear
and
it
You
can
still
wear
it
pro-
with an otherwise color-perfect
it oti
top of a
garment, not against
skin.
own
amber beads you love.

Unfortunately, the beads are a more golden amber than is
ideal for you. But fortunately, you also own blue, green,
and purple blouses in shades that are ideal for you and
coordinate well with those amber beads. We suggest you
wear that amber necklace on top of those color-perfect
blouses. You'll be surprised how good your amber beads
suddenlv look on vou.
Suppose you
96
strand of
COLOR WONDERFUL

Your color type can determine much about the handbags
you carry. You don't need to have a lot of purses. But
you do need to know the colors and sizes that are right
you with your Gentle coloring.
It's a smart move to buy a purse or attache case that
exactly matches the color of your hair. You'll always
look coordinated carrying it since it repeats a color you
ahvays wear on the top of your head your hair. For a
second basic purse, try to match the shade of your skin
exactly. You wdll also want to find a straw purse in this
for
color for the
Your next
warmer months.
your dark, medium,

Your dark neutrals are navy, black (if
it enhances you), rust, medium-dark browns, dark green,
plum or burgundy, and medium to dark grays. Your
and
best color choices are
light neutrals.
hi Plioio 6.8,
same
fled
beijê
hUmse, but
tiecklace
and medium neutrals are off-whites, beiges, light to

medium gray, and camels. Indeed, camel is one of the
light
most
all
flexible shades
on your color
chart.
seasons that coordinates well with
medium, and dark clothing
all
It's
color for
your best
light,
dium
Myrt wears
and off-white
this
time her
in the correct
is
scale.
She has
the
ruf-
me-
also toned
down her makeup, using medium shades of her best colors.

The overall effect is extremely
pleasing.
colors.
There is one restriction on purse materials. You should

avoid any solid expanse of patent leather. It falls in the
same negative category as overly bright, shiny jewelry.

However, patent leather mixed with other leathers, suede,
straw, and canvas
A
sized
a
is
fine.
purse for everyday use should be small to
measure eleven by eight inches or
shorter Gentle color type. For
six inches
provided
and
it's
women who
mediumif
you
are
are five feet
might be in order
lightweight-looking. However, keep in mind
taller,
larger purse
more
The
dress-
occasion, the smaller your purse should be.
Hav-
that the larger the purse, the

ier the
less
ing said
this,
it
casual
it is.
should be obvious to you that small and
medium-sized handbags are far more versatile.

Most of the above advice about purse size applies to
women of all color types. For those with Gentle coloring,
no matter what their height and body structure, purses
that look light in weight are best. Avoid stiff, structured
shapes and all overly thick-looking leathers and other
materials.
For
late
spring and
summer,
straw purse
is
nice
addition. For any time of the year, an excellent-quahty
Gentle Coloring
97
leather
bag
care of
it,
is
your wisest investment.
good
leather
handbag
It
you take good

you well for
will serve
vears.
Shoes
Much
of what we've said about purse materials and col-
ors applies equally to shoes.
Your
wardrobe should contain both dressy

and casual shoes in colors that match your hair and skin
tones. Supplement these with your other best neutral
shades such as camel, beige, brown, rust, navy, and gray.
Shoes in such colors as your red, blue, yellow, etc.,
are wonderful to work with but are more of a luxury.
That's why we recommend you build a shoe wardrobe of
neutrals first and then gradually add pairs in your other
favorite, most used colors.
If you have light-colored hair, shoes in your hair shade
will work well with all your colors, even your medium
and darker outfits. Picture a beige-blond woman wearing
a navy skirt and powder blue blouse that she accessorizes
with light beige hose and shoes and a purse that match
basic shoe
her hair color. Guaranteed, shell look
you own
terrific.
you are not

you look enhanced
in soft contrast or blended combinations. You might
substitute a beige shoe, one that matches your skin tone.
If
dress in your best white,
limited to white as a shoe color since
Skin-tone shoes will relate even better to
you
also pick
up
scarf, necklace,
As we
is
that beige color in
some
white dress
other accessory
if
or belt, for instance.
you need to avoid

But even you can wear patent
said before, the only material
solid patent
leather.
leather if the shoe
is a
small strap sandal, not
pump.
Eyeglass Frames
By now, you've probably
picked up on the fact that
all
your accessories, including your eyeglass frames, should

be
light,
dates
No
COLOR WOSDERFL'L
never heavy-looking. Your Gentle coloring man-
it.
Gentle color type can go
glasses frames
wrong
from her beige color
if
she selects her
(skin tone) or
main
might
hair color. She
also consider the highlight color in
her hair provided that color

is
apparent in
Take
sunlight.
is
prominent enough so
the case of a
woman
and medium brown hair with
would be
faint
If a
metal frame
slight
golden highhghts.
your preference,
is
the gold's fmish
isn't
It
hair's
in a frame.
pewter, or
silver,
it
with pink-beige skin
mistake for her to try to duplicate her
golden highlight
down
that
lighting conditions, not just in direct
all
we
suggest toned-
Make
soft-toned gold.
sure
too bright, shiny, brassy, or yellow.
Don't overlook frameless glasses. They allow more of

to show and create a nice effect.
your eyes
Evening Wear
Everyone can wear
their
own
best pastels in the daytime,
but they are not necessarily effective in night lighting.
Night lighting conditions have a tendency to make light

colors fade to obscurity. If any color loses its power, it
also loses its ability to make you glow! To wear an
effective "pastel" look in the evening, choose clearer and
darker pastels more toward a medium-light value.
Very dark colors can also be ineffective at night. Under

low light conditions, they usually get darker, or as we
term it, they "black out." At night, a purple might look
like a
purple-toned black instead of
own
example. Each individual has her

colors start to black out.
When
Avoid
its
true shade,
level at
for
which dark
these dark colors at night.
trying on evening clothes in a store, seek out a
mirror in dim
light. If the color fades
make you look
out or blacks out,
it
At home, try lighting a

candle in the bathroom; if the problem occurs and you
cannot return the garment, intensify your makeup (especially your blush) and see if there is a way to add a color
will never
radiant.
accent near your face.
Since black
is
the evening if
make
it
visually.
the absence of color,
look dehcate so that
To
you achieve
help
periment with jewelry,

of satin or velvet.
exposed skin
the black to
If
may
make
you can wear
it
in
appears on your color chart and you
it
you
silk
are
it
won't overpower you
more dehcate
effect,
ex-
or chiffon scarves, or ribbons
wearing
low-cut dress, your
provide you with enough relief from

it
look
less
weighty on you.
Gentle Coloring
99
medium
dark to
light color values in the strongest clarity
of color
In general, choose evening clothes in
medium
you can possibly
sustain and
control of the outfit.
become
color
still
look radiant and in
Remember, never
so clear and bright that
let
it
of
clarity
seems to be
wearing you.
Lame
is
one
that
shimmering
possibility for
the overall effect
garments
in a
is
fabric
you provided
with the metallic threads

it's
in
your best shades and
not overly bright. Sequins and beaded
toned-down
good
clarity are also
choices.
For shoes and bags, you might try metallic shades of

pewter, soft-toned
silver,
or soft-toned gold.
You
can also
match your outfit or wear dressy shoes that match your

skin or your most prominent hair colors.
Furs
Stay with short- and medium-haired furs. If you are
you may be
able to
wear longer-haired
furs. Just
tall,
make
sure they look very delicate, airy, and light in weight.
Because you have Gentle coloring, you must
at all
times
avoid heavy looks, bulk, and extreme thickness, even in
"Dehcate"
your watchword.
your best white, beige, camel,
brown, gray, or black, if the latter is on your chart.
furs.
is
Select a fur color in
Keep in mind that sohd-colored furs are more versatile.

They can be worn over casual clothes as well as with
formal evening wear.
And
they coordinate with both pat-
terned and solid-colored outfits.
We
think multicolored furs, such as raccoon or lynx,
are terrific, but they are definitely

furs look
more Hmiting. These
grand on sportier occasions, but
nings on the
if
elegant eve-
town are an important part of your

would be a wiser choice.
life,
solid-colored fur

If
you've been wearing the wrong makeup and wardrobe
colors and
100
COLOR WONDERFUL
change
is
you suddenly switch

guaranteed to
elicit
to the right ones,
the
favorable comments. But
don't be surprised
derful change in
people's remarks focus on the

part of your
Why?
or clothes.
facial features
colors
if
some
you wear
have
will
won-
anatomy other than your

Because
change
in the
profoundly positive, but
on your total image.

This happened to one of our clients, a black woman
with Gentle coloring who ill-advisedly wore very brownish colors, particularly in her makeup. After we introduced her to the lovely reds, raspberries, plums, and
corals on her color chart, she charged off on a two-week
shopping spree in New York. When this woman went
back to work wearing her new makeup and clothing
colors, the reaction was immediate. She still laughs to
subliminal, effect
herself about
it:
"Everybody
told
me
looked
terrific.
But not one
person figured out why. Most people wanted to
know
done to my hair. It looked fantastic, they said. I

hadn't done anything to my hair, of course. But I'd done
plenty to the rest of my body."
Another client wore makeup in the wrong colors, too
dark in value and often too strong in intensity for her
Gentle coloring. In addition, she was coloring her hair the
what
I'd
wrong
shade, a mistake we'll discuss later in this chapter.
When we
the
finished the makeover, our client
same number of makeup
had changed. The
intensity of the colors
softer look in her makeup.

no longer too pink or too
beige skin tone exactly.

slightly
more golden
medium
medium
client
and
adopted
Specifically, her foundation
a
is
dark, but matches her ivory-
The new
in tone.
dark eye shadows and
was using
colors, but the shades
now
base
is
lighter
and
She discarded her overly
wears eye shadows that are
Her lipstick colors are

to medium-dark toned-down shades, a far cry
from the deep, intense colors she used to wear on her
to light in color value.
lips.
If you have Gentle coloring, this softer look should be

your goal, too. Keep the word "gentle" in the forefront
of your mind at all times when you are purchasing makeup
when you are applying it. With your delicate

little makeup goes a long way. You can,
however, create as much drama in your makeup look as
as well as
coloring,
any color type.
It's
just that with Gentle coloring
achieve this drama with
medium
less intense,
values of colors.
you can
toned-down, hght
to
Gentle Coloring
101
Study the makeup on Myrt Arthur
in Plates
40 and 41.
Myrt is wearing overly dark makeup

overpowers her Gentle coloring. In the second photo,
she has adopted an enhancing "gentle" look to bring out
the understated drama of her Gentle coloring.
In the first photo,
that
Makeup
The
art
Colors
of makeup application
we hope you
know.
already
is
something about which
If not, there are a
number of
good books on the subject. What we want to enlighten

you about here is color: which makeup shades you should
wear to enhance your natural coloring.
Foundation.
Many
Gentle color types have
touch of
pinkness to their skin, which some feel they need to tone

down. The correct shade of base will automatically do this
unless you have extreme ruddiness or blotchy red spots.
In these two instances, you might consider using a toner
under your foundation, but be careful. Follow the advice

in Chapter 4 about "correcting" problem complexions.
common
It's
women
for
have been wearing
who
with Gentle coloring
base too dark or too pink to feel that
they look pale once they start matching their skin tone
exactly. Their eye hasn't yet adjusted to their true Gentle
look. Also, they haven't yet accepted the notion that color
added
is
with eye shadow, blush, and lipstick
to the face
with basel Inevitably, these
new,
softer look.
could
ever have
Blush.
ideal
Your
In
women come
retrospect,
worn
that
they
mask on
comment,
my
best reds, raspberry, and
rouge shades. But
as
shade of coral can be used

never for a blush.
not
to relish their
"How
face?"
plum
colors are
we've said elsewhere, your best

as a lipstick or polish color
However,
if
you
arc
wearing coral
but
lip-
you can experiment by adding a hint of coral to

your cheeks and then blending it with blush in your red
stick,
color (as in Plate 41,

lip
where our model
is
wearing
a coral
color with her red color blush).
Lipstick.
must have
Your
lipstick
and any matching
that softened or
toned-down
nail polish
quality essential
your Gentle coloring. There

one exception. Gentle/Light-Bright color types have
for bringing out the best in

is
102
COLOR WONDERFUL
clearer colors on
and blush should
their charts,
and
reflect this fact.
their lipstick, polish,
Good
choices for lipstick are your best red, raspberry,
And
plum, and coral colors.

best lipstick colors
on your
combine your
feel free to
lips
with impunity to create
new shades.
Eye Shadow. "Soft" and "subtle" are the watchwords
when you're making up your eyes.
Stick with light to medium eye shadow shades in your
toned-down clarity. A basic collection ot shadows
you would include gray, brown, blue, blue-green,
green, at least one shade of purple, and beige or creamy
best
for
white for
a highlighter.
Eye shadows that repeat colors in your eyes (reread

"Your Body Colors" in Chapter 2) and your best neutrals
are good ones to accompany a conservative business outfit or to use any time you want to have a less obvious eye
makeup effect. You will find that your more bluish-
work
purple shadows, too. are very basic because they

well with
all
of your most enhancing colors and compli-
ment every conceivable eye

Another possibility is to
color.
duplicate the colors of your
clothing in your eye shadows.
and medium contrast
effects,
To
create the right blended
mix your medium eye shadow
tones with your light tones and, if you are
Muted
Gentle/
medium-dark tone.
A cautionary note: Gentle color types must be on guard
to apply their eye shadow
indeed, all their makeup
color type, with an occasional
rather lightly.
It
doesn't take
much
for a
woman
with
Gentle coloring to look overly made-up. (See Plates 30
which illustrate this problem.)

Eyeliner and Mascara. Brown mascara
and
40,
enhancing for
ever, if
your
many
hair
is
quite dark,
all
generally
you may
effective color for nighttime occasions
time occasion
is
Gentle color types than black.
when you
and
find black an
other enhancing dark tones
brown
are
instead.
also
any day-
for
are very dressed up. If
harsh on you, please use
more
How-
it
looks
at
Navy and
possible
mascara
choices.
Use
eyeliners that
match any of your charted
Just be certain to diffuse the line
medium
of
it
colors.
smudge of any
it
to darker eyeliner shade to eliminate
any chance
appearing too harsh.
Lighter
vs.
Darker Color Values. Light-haired Gentle
color types should keep their eye shadow, lipstick, blush,
and polish
in the
medium
to light range
of color values.
Gentle Coloring
103
while dark-haired Gentle color types can wear somewhat

darker color values.
The
rule
Medium
this:
is
of thumb for eye,
cheek, and nail color
lip,
color tones are always appropriate for
daytime business looks
as well as for day and evening

no matter what the color of your hair. Slightly
stronger or darker tones may be called for if you are
wearing outfits in stronger mixes of your best colors or
you are simulating a certain high-fashion effect. For lighter-
casual attire
women
haired
with Gentle coloring,
would mean
this
moving
to medium-dark values, or simply applying your

medium-value shades with a slightly stronger hand.
Makeup for evening always needs to be deepened enough
to give you the effect you want, but not so much that
you look overly made-up. Let your outfit, the occasion,
and your good judgment dictate how dark and how much
makeup
To
your
to apply
achieve
when
a strictly
you're attending afterdark events.
"nonmakeup" look, wear

The lightest shades of your
casual
lighter lipstick colors.
shadow
best eye
colors are usually used as highlighters to
achieve specific effects depending on your eye shape.
Purchase blushes
in
medium
Then simply apply them
medium-dark
to
lightly or
with
values.
heavier hand,
keeping the guidelines outlined above in mind.
Coordinating^
Your Makeup and Clothing Colors
How
do you decide which eye, lip, cheek, and polish

wear with an outfit?
To educate you on this score, we'd like to describe
several outfits and then give you a few makeup suggestions:
colors to
Pretend you are wearing
medium
conservative business suit in
creamy white blouse. You've

encircled your neck with a sophisticated gray and creamy
a
gray with
white patterned scarf For accessories, you've chosen

textured silver earrings, skin-tone stockings, and a gray
purse and shoes.
Now
ors in
for
your makeup:
medium and
We
light tones
suggest eye
gray eyeliner. Use brown mascara

U)4
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
look harsh on you. For
lip
shadow
col-
of gray and cream. Use
or black
if
it
doesn't
and cheek colors, use your
medium
shade
in
red,
your
raspberry,
or plum.
Either match that
nail color or select a clear or neutral nail
polish.
This time you're wearing off-white slacks with
a yel-
low blouse and a strand of pearls twisted around a gold

chain. Your gold earrings are small to medium in scale.
Your shoes, purse, and hose are all off-white.
With your eye shadows, you've got several choices:
On the one extreme, you could go for a more neutral
look and wear soft shades of gray or medium brown
and cream. At the other extreme, you might want to
wear the stronger tones of medium and lighter purples,
blues,
blue-greens, or greens and cream.
The
neutral
eye look requires gray or brown eyeliner. The more

accentuated eye demands that color in
mascara color
Select
both cases
in
medium
is
pohsh color. Brush your

your cheeks.
The
best
brown.
coral or red lipstick
nail
a liner.
and
matching
on
best shade of red blush
This next ensemble consists of
medium
blue dress
camel jacket and a scarf at the neck of blue,

camel, purple, and white. Add camel shoes, a camel
purse, and skin-tone hosiery.
topped by
The
blue of the dress affords you the perfect opportu-
nity to repeat
restrict
it
in
your eye shadows
augmented with
could add
You could either

medium blue shade
highlighter. Or you
your eye shadows.

to that
pale camel-beige
purple shadow^ to the blues for
broader-
spectrum effect. Wear brown mascara and an eyeliner

of blue and/or purple. On your lips, cheeks, and nails,
we recommend plum, raspberry, or your best red.
imagine yourself dressed to the nines in a coral

a cream blouse and a necklace with delicate
coral, turquoise, and ivory beads. You complete the
ensemble with tiny ivory earrings, skin-tone hose, and
shoes and a purse in your hair color.
Finally,
suit
with
How
would you decorate your
To draw
face?
attention to your eyes, blend together coral
and blue-green eye shadows accented with
cream
Gentle Coloring
105
more sub-
highlighter and a blue-green eyeliner. For a
you could wear a camel-toned eye shadow

with a brown or gray Hner and cream highlighter. Stav
with brown mascara. Your lip and nail color will be
your coral with your medium red on your cheeks.
possibly blended with just a touch of your coral Up color.
tle
eye
effect,
Hdir Colovitig
Remember
who wore
that client
the
wrong makeup
col-
ors in shades far too dark and strong for her Gentle look?
Her
was coloring her hair too brassy. The
brassy-looking hair made her complexion look more florid
than it really was. Using the Color
concept, she solved
the problem by substituting a beige tone for the bright
golden tone her hairdresser was using.
The mistake this woman was making coloring her
Well, she also had a problem with her hair color.
favorite hairdresser
hair too brassy
is
common
one among
women
with
Gentle coloring. ^X'hen Gentle color types, whether they're

blonds, brunettes, or redheads, wish to lighten their hair
color, as a rule they should lighten or highlight their hair
with beige-blond and champagne-blond shades. These
happen
to be colors that are flattering to ivory
beige skin tones, which
many women with
and pink-
Gentle color-
ing have.
you lighten or color your hair, your objective is

to look like you were born with hair in your new shade.
(We suggest you reread the sections on skin and hair
color in Chapter 1.) No matter what new hair color you
choose, always make sure it compliments rather than
clashes with your complexion. The average Gentle color
type, as we've mentioned, has an ivory complexion or
skin with a pinkish cast and therefore must avoid hair too
X^'hen
golden
in tone.
One way
new
by using
hghter version of your main hair color, by matching
to select a
prominent highlight color
in
hghter shade
your
hair,
your skin-tone beige.

If you are a blond with Gentle coloring,
is
or by repeating
it is
likely
your
hair has an ash, beige, champagne, camel, caramel, or
strawberry look to
106
COLOR
ll'OSDERFL'L
coloring,
it
will
it.
If
you have Gentle Light-Bright

a golden highlight. If you
probably have
wanted
to
darken your
natural hair color or

(e.g., if skin
camel or
The
hair, use a
has a golden tone, hair should be a golden
golden brown).
shades
we
just listed are also
for Gentle color types with light to
Thus,
if a
deeper value of your
deeper value of your skin tone
common
highlights
medium brown
hair.
brunette wanted to lighten her hair, she might
select lighter versions
of her highlight colors.
white or gray and you want
it to be
your
blond, brown, or red, you must choose a shade that looks
fabulous with your skin. Match the beiges, camels, browns,
and rusts on your chart.
If
hair
Your Gentle
how
is
coloring
is
truly unique.
You now know
and
levels
your clothing
of contrast to help you look marvelous
and makeup. You are now ready to begin Part III, where
in
you can apply your new color knowledge and learn how
to cast your most special and exciting color spell!
Gentle Colorific
107
Chapter 7
Wardrobe Advice for

Light-Bright Coloring
There's
common
mistake
many women with
Light-
Bright coloring make. They think because their coloring

IS
on the hght
they should wear only
side,
As
looking colors.
consequence,
colors that are so pale and often so
wash out
their skin coloring
soft,
light-
they tend to wear
toned-down they
and end up fading into the
surroundings.
What should women with Light-Bright coloring wear?

They should wear clear, bright clarities to emphasize the
light
and bright radiance of their natural coloring. Besides
giving them
also greatly
In the
a striking
improve
United
new
image, the correct colors will
their selt-confidence.
States, at least,
coloring are fewer in
women
with Light-Bright
number than women
ot the other
Even our experience in color charting over

women last year worldwide indicates there
fewer of them in the global population than Muted.
color types.
forty thousand
are
Gentle, or Contrast color types.
However, we can name

stars
who
number of American movie
have Light-Bright coloring: Marilyn Monroe.
Ginger Rogers. Shirley Jones. Dolly Parton, Farrah Fawcett.
Suzanne Somers. Cheryl Ladd. The French actress Cath108
'
COLOR WONDERFL'L
erine
Deneuve
is
another.
Your Best Color
Clarities
People with Light-Bright coloring need to re-create their

body's natural look in their clothing colors and color
combinations. This means wearing colors in
clarity.
But
means combining
also
it
bright
a clear,
with
light colors
bright colors, as the phrase "Light-Bright" imphes (see

Plate 34).
It
does not mean combining dark colors with
bright colors. That particular color combination does not
reproduce the look of your natural coloring,

nothing Hght and bright about
Your
skin tone
is
your guide
softened, muted, dark, or light
of colors.
jump
color
is
as there's
it.
to
how
clear,
you wear your
too bright for you
if
it
off your skin and causes people to look
bright,
best shades
appears to
at
the color
instead of you. At the opposite extreme, a color is too

muted if it looks muddy or dead next to your skin.
The second
wear
is
best clarity for a Light-Bright color type to
very slightly toned-down. Let us emphasize the
adverb "slightly." (To review color
clarities,
study Plates
21-23.)
Pure white
is
one color
all
Light-Bright color types can
wear. White gives Light-Bright coloring
look that's extremely appealing.
crisp
fresh,
(See Plate 3.)
White
on them when it's combined

with other bright colors. To see what we mean, study
the wây the Light-Bright color type model has combined
is
particularly
effective
white with other colors

7.4,
and
in
Plate 34 and
Photos
7.2,
7.6.
Best Clarity of Colors for Light-Bright Color Types

Color Type
As they mature, some women with Light-Bright colorcome to the erroneous conckision that they should
ing
forsake the bright colors of their youth and
toned-down, dustier shades. This
is
move
into
not so.
Joan Stone, our Dousman, Wisconsin, associate, remembers her encounter with two clients with Light-Bright
coloring.
Both were handsome
One had
gray
hair,
women
in
their sixties.
the other had colored her gray hair
blond.
As young women, both had worn clear, bright colors,

now they felt more subdued' colors were "appropri-
but
ate" for them. Their advancing age and their social status
dictated
of
The
combinatioti of tu>o
colors can he lovely
on a
li{^ht
li<^ht-
haired Lifiht-Bri^ht color type

if the tones are clear.
feld
models
in
Photo
7.
an
is
example. The culprit here

Jeantie's
in<^.
makeup, not her
Jeanne's
too dark,
hlush,
is
lip color
creatinii
image
that
felt
make
would be out of place
at
their objections.
bright colors
Clear,
would not look excessive and tawdry on them. Because

of their bodies' natural color scheme, such colors on them
look eye-catching, to be sure, but also lovely, classy, and
To prove
it,
she draped them
in their best colors,
followed by the toned-down shades they were defending,
and made them study themselves carefully

hi fairly short order, they
applied with a heavy hand,

a painted look.
garish, an
Joan countered
correct.
have been
women
corporate social functions.
are
and her eye shadow,
and
them look
cloth-
makeup shades
important companies, and these
bright colors might cheapen their appearance and
The
hloHse and slacks Jeanne Schoen-
they argued. Their husbands were presidents
it,
large,
in the mirror.
came around. Joan was
right.
They looked older, pale, and drained in the tt:)ned-down

colors. They looked younger, more vital, and more rested
in the lighter, brighter colors. The moral ot the story:
Once a Light-Bright color type, always a Light-Bright
color type.
For an illustration of
gray-haired Light-Bright color
type wearing her best colors, see Plate
15.
Your Best Level of Contrast

Strong and
medium
levels
hancing on
women
with Light-Bright coloring. Light-
of contrast are the mosc en-
Bright color types with light hair can wear

if
the clarity of the colors
is
blended look
clear.
Here are some specific pointers about how to mix and

match the shades on Your Color Color Chart:
1
no
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
bright color with a light color (see Plates 11. 15. and
e.g..
19),
bright red and pure white,
light
gray and
bright yellow.
dark color with a clear light
color, e.g.,
light clear coral, dark clear blue-green
and
navy and
a light clear
yellow.
Two
bright colors, provided both are light-looking, e.g..
a light,
bright yellow and a light, bright red.
a light,
bright purple and a light, bright blue.
bright color with a light- or
e.g.. bright
Two
medium-toned
green and light gray, bright blue and camel.
medium
neutrals that create a
contrast, e.g., white
strong level of
may combine two
such as white and light gray without
neutrals
adding
to
and dark gray, beige and navy.
light-haired Light-Bright color type

light
neutral,
a third
contrasting accent color. But
medium-
and darker-haired Light-Bright color types need a bright

or dark accent to bring such a combination to life (e.g..
beige and light grav with
How
much more
Jeanne looks
The
attractive
Photo 7.2!
small-striped, clear red
pure white blouse
women
look for
bright blue accent).
in
Bri(^ht coloring.
is
with Light-
Jeanne has
amplified the positive
effect
of
her clothing by choosing her
best clear
makeup
There
and
an ideal
medium
to light
colors.
are several color combinations Light-Bright color
types can never wear unless they add the grace note ot
conciliatory third accent color near the face:
Do
add
not wear a dark color with a bright color unless you

light accent near
bright combination
suit
a
worn with
is
your
face because a dark
with
navy
overall too strong-looking.
bright red blouse, for instance, requires
white or other lighter color accent to make the entire
ensemble palatable with your coloring.
small- to
medium-
navy and red with a large amount o{

pure white background is one way to bring the needed
lightness to this outfit. (See Photo 7.3 and Plate 42 for an
example of what not to do.)
Do not wear two light colors together unless your hair
is light or unless you add a dark or bright accent near
your tace. For example, a clear pastel blue-and-white
sized print scart in
outfit usually needs a bright or dark accent to increase the

level ot contrast.
can wear
light-haired Light-Bright color type
this light-on-light
the accent provided the pastel
7.L)
combination without adding

is a clear claritv. (See Photo
Lif^ht-Bri(^ht
Coloring
lU
Do
7.3
not wear two dark colors together unless you add a
light accent near
clear
your
face.
dark clear royal blue and
dark green combination needs the addition of a good
deal of light accents to
make
the outfit relate to Light-
how
Bright coloring. (In Plate 42 you can see

bright color combination
tor this model's Light-Bright coloring.
obviously too strong
the dark-
visually too heavy-looking
is
Her makeup
is
as well.)
What about monotone
looks?
You may wear an all-one-color look

medium-toned bright colors. Our model in
in
your best
Plate 43
would
look great wearing the color of her blue blouse from head
to toe,
without the accent of pearls or the white jacket.
Light-haired
In Photo 7.3, yon see Jeanne
Schoenfelci in a
hriiilir
red
and
black luniheijach plaid jacket
worn
oi'er a solid black blouse.
Any
is
woman
with Jeanne's Lij^ht-
Brit^ht colorini^.
matches the
These
There
But
is
bright or dark color.
one monotone look no
woman
with Light-
Bright coloring can wear. That's an outfit consisting of
one dark color, even

type's
outfit.
in their clear vibrant pastels.
women with Light-Bright coloring cannot.

darker-haired women must accent any all-one-color
looks in their light shades with
Her makeup
It's too
strong and dark in tone.
with Light-Bright coloring can even
darker-haired
bright-dark coffibination
too I'isnally orerpowerinj^ for
women
wear all-one-color looks
if it's one of a Light-Bright color

most enhancing dark shades. Always accent your
darker values of color with light values.
Your Best Neutrals
you wear a lot ot neutrals black, camel, gray, navy,

brown, rust, beige, white, and burgundy did you ever
If
why? It's probably because neutrals seem to

mix and match so well with other colors. Moreover, they
make you feel safe. After all, how can you go wrong
ask yourself
wearing gray?
You can go wrong if it's the wrong shade of gray, or

brown, or any other neutral. Neutrals, just like your
complimentary colors, come in different shades and
clarities. Thus it's crucial that you choose the right shade
and clarity to enhance your natural Light-Bright coloring.
As a woman with Light-Bright coloring, you'll find
the light and medium neutrals of beige, white, off-white,
camel, and light-to-medium grays are mainstays in your
wardrobe. Light-Bright color types no matter how light
or dark their hair, no matter what the season of the
year will want to own several items of clothing and
112
COLOR WONDERFUL
medium
accessories in these lighter and
Those items might range from
suits
neutral colors.
and blazers to sweat-
and purses.
ers, blouses, shoes,
For example, for
summer
use you might want to
own
major white cotton, linen, or silk clothing items.

In the winter, wôol wardrobe staples in white, off-white,
your skin tones, camel, and gray will see you through the
season. In fact, any month of the year, most of your light
several
medium
and
sory items
neutrals
make
equally fine choices tor acces-
scarves, necklaces, earrings, belts, shoes, and
purses.
We
Don't misunderstand, though.
are not precluding
ward-
the notion of including the darker neutrals in your
robe, too.
It's
just that
you mix and match

Keep in mind that a
always needs
make
it
care in
how
separates in darker neutral shades.
woman
with Light-Bright coloring
degree ot lightness in any outfit to
fair
relate to her natural light
Too many
ing.
you must take more
and bright body color-
dark colors in an ensemble can easily
overwhelm her.
What follows is an overview of all the light as well as
dark neutrals you may want to utilize in your wardrobe:
Black. Whether you can wear black effectively is an
individual matter. However, if you can, you still have to
be careful how you wear it. Too much of a good thing
can be
level
all
it
who
of contrast
(see
Photo
7.4).
She can also mix
What
she must not do
their
is
it
7.3, but her jacket
white.
dium
is
the
same
Photo
is
Her makeup
clear tones
is
in
pure
me-
equally
enhancii[\i.
would be too heavy

One other word of advice:
effect, visually,
with
lighter
medium
or darker values or any dark color on her chart.
The
for her.
you're putting together an ensemble with black
many of you
will
need to use one of your clear light
colors or light neutrals to frame your face.
baring your skin

relief.
blouse
combine
black w4th any of her best bright colors in their
it,
Her
can wear black can
the other light neutrals and colors in
When
colorini^.
solid black one as in
with pure white, creating the highest possible
values on her chart.
in
combination that enhances her
bad thing with your delicate coloring.
Light-Bright color type
combine
Photo 7.4 depicts Jeanne

u'earin(> a Ui^ht-davk contrast
So with
at
Sometimes
enough
leave a few
the neck and chest area creates
black blouse, for instance,
buttons open. Most of you need to avoid wearing

turtleneck or other high-necked black item.
your goal:
and bright
to lighten the look

effect.
black
Remember
of black to create
a light
Lii^ht-Bri^lit
Coloring
113
Here
some
are
outfits
you may want
Black, white, and camel can be
Wear
for you.
topped with
or
beads,
dynamite combination
pure white blouse with black slacks,
Add
camel blazer.
to duplicate:
black strand of
necklace that combines black and white,
black and camel, or
three colors. For a terrific look,
all
Hose could
twist a gold chain around your black beads.
be sheer black; shoes and purse black.
Wear
black pleated skirt with a pure white blouse,
perhaps one with some black trim on
Complete the
it.
ensemble with black patent leather shoes and purse,

very sheer black
belt
with
tint in
hose, a dressy black snakcskin
Or
shiny gold buckle, and gold earrings.
wear the same skirt with a satiny-looking, skin-tone

blouse and the same accessories, only this time substitute shoes and purse that match your hair color exactly,
and use skin-tone hose.
To test just how much black you can sustain, assemble
an outfit consisting of
a light
gray
skirt, a
black blouse
(no high necks, please), shiny silver jewelry, black sheer

stockings, and black shoes and purse.
much
black, use sheer gray hose;
add
white or off-white jacket.
If there
too
still
Instead of using black as a clothing color,
Wear
too
is
much
black,
try
it
for
and vibrant,
purple skirt and matching blouse accessorized with a
black belt, purse, and shoes and a black necklace and
earrings. Hose can be skin tone, or a sheer tint of black
accessories only.
light,
yet clear
or purple.
For Light-Bright color types black

appear on your color chart
is
even
not
basic
if it
does
go-with-
everything neutral for such staples as shoes and purses.
Use black shoes and purse only when you are wearing an
more total black
outfit that incorporates black, or for a
accessory look as in the outfit mentioned above. If black

is
not flattering to your coloring, there
any accessories or garments
Camel. This
is
one
COLOR WONDERFUL
to
own
to
own
all.
medium neutral that looks

when you coordinate it with
medium-dark
best neutrals
an ideal choice as an accessory color, too.

114
no need
light to
fabulous on you, especially

other light to
in black at
is
in
and colors.
You
will
your camel.
It's
want
your hair is a camel color or has

a camel blazer in this shade
If
wear
necessity for you. You'll be able to
thing
you own, and
is
an absolute
it
over every-
always look good because
will
it
camel
distinct
highlights,
repeats a shade in your natural
body
light, your best camel shade

your hair color.
will be a darker version
is
Camel and
medium
it
coloring. If your hair
or light gray
is
of
lovely neutral
color combination for you. Picture yourself in
camel skirt worn with a medium gray blouse and

adorned with either a silver or gold piece of jewelry, a
You
pin or necklace.
could also twist one silver and one
gold chain together for
handsome touch. Skin-tone
hose, camel shoes and purse complete the look.
camel
with
suit
and
hose,
pure white blouse, skin-tone
a crisp,
red belt,
and shoes. Red or
purse,
red,
white, and gold earrings top off the combination.
Camel
slacks with a clear light blue blouse
topped off
with an off-white jacket. For accessories wear
gold
necklace and earrings, skin-tone or bone hosiery, and
camel or off-white shoes and purse.
woman
Navy. Every
navy on her color chart
Navy should
care. Too great
could have
her best shade.
in
be treated
like other
dark neutrals
with
an expanse of it, especially near your
negative
with Light-Bright coloring has
Your
effect.
goal: to create a
face,
hght
and bright look with navy.

If
you want to wear suits, slacks, or shirts in navy,

sure you always wear them w4th light neutrals or
pastel colors. Do tiot wear them with medium-
make
clear
toned bright colors, dark colors, or dark neutrals, for

there
is
nothing
at
all
light
and bright about such
combinations.
Many women
their
delight,
with Light-Bright coloring discover, to
that
they already
toned blouses and tops
in
own
several
good shades and
medium-
clarities for
them. These tops are to be worn with light colors, light

to
medium
looking,
neutrals,
and,
in
medium-toned bright
some
colors
cases,
other light-
but never with navy
or any other dark color.
Try
these
navy looks:
Lii^ht-Bri'^ht Coloyiii<^
115
navy
worn with
suit
pure white blouse,
a scarf
of
navy, red, gray, and white, sheer gray hose, red shoes,
navy purse. Accent with red or white earrings.

Navy slacks, a clear, light yellow blouse, navy beads,
sheer navy hose, navy shoes and purse.
and
Gray. Here
is
another very useful neutral that always
appears on your color chart in your most enhancing shade.
The
we've already enunciated for dark neutral

as well. Light and
rules
color combinations apply to dark gray
medium
gray arc another matter, for both
into the
fall
light-to-medium neutral category.
You
your medium to
gray because they will
work
in
want
will
to
own
light
well with almost your entire
wardrobe. They become necessities
if
your hair
is
gray or
white.
You would look
great wearing
wool
clear light gray
and cuffs and
dress with a crisp white collar
red accessories
red belt, earrings, shoes,
and purse and sheer gray hosiery.
A medium
gray suit with
yet bright,
light,
yellow
blouse, a silver necklace, and gray hosiery, shoes, and

purse.
Slacks in
clear
light blue top
gray pearl),
Light and
medium
purple coupled with
and accented with gray beads

gray
belt, hose, shoes,
medium
Bright coloring whose hair

turning, hidecd, for such
to
and purse.
gray clothes adorned with silver
jewelry are particularly striking on
work with
a clear
(silver or
is
women
with Light-
gray or in the process of
women
gray and silver are
joy
because, wearing them, they always look
pulled together, "finished."
Gray-haired Light-Bright color types often

tensive use of gray as a basic accessory color
closet
and drawers with gray shoes,
belts,
make
ex-
lining their
handbags, and
scarves.
116
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
Browns. Brown doesn't have to be too deep in value

before it becomes a dark neutral in a Light-Bright color
type's color lexicon. Even though your best "dark" brown
is probably really a medium brown, you must treat it
according to the rules for dark neutrals we've already
enunciated. Again, your goal is to make your best dark
brown look
and bright so
light
enhance your
can
it
coloring.
Your most enhanced browns

match your
hair,
are darker values
or in the case ot
hair,
of your
gray-haired
would be a darker value of your skm tone.

more versatile than dark brown for
most of you as it can be combined with light, medium,
and dark values of all your best colors and neutrals. With
your best medium-dark and dark browns, you are limited
Light-Brights,
Camel
generally
is
to either clear
and
hght neutrals
or your
light beige
regardless of
bright color,
light gray, off-white, white,
best vibrant-looking pastels.

its
No
color value, can ever be
coupled with medium-dark or dark brown.

If your hair
will serve
If
is
fairly dark,
you well
your hair
is
Here
brown:
are
as a basic shoe, belt,
lighter,
are incorporating
medium-dark and dark brown
brown elsewhere
two
when you
in the outfit.
and bright-looking
light
Medium brown
and purse color.
only wear brown shoes
pink blouse,
slacks, a clear light
with
outfits
a tur-
quoise belt and necklace, skin-tone hose, and shoes and

purse in your hair color.
An off-white skirt worn with

medium brown tweed blazer
flecks,
hght gray blouse and
an off-white necklace, bone or sheer gray stock-
and gray shoes and purse.
ings,
Rust. Every
woman
with Light-Bright coloring has
some shade ot rust on her color chart.

Even though rust appears on your
go-with-everything accessory color.
not
a hair
color
with gray and off-white
for
shade
either a
main
chart,
Why?
it
is
not
Because
it
a
is
hair color or highlight
any Light-Bright color type.
Nonetheless, rust
is
a practical
dark neutral to include
your wardrobe provided you follow the guidelines for

mixing and matching dark neutrals with other colors in
in
short,
create light
and bright looks by using rust with
light tones.
These
Camel
outfits will
look lovely on you:
slacks with a white blouse, a rust jacket
skin-tone hose, camel shoes, and

bag.
Add
gold earrings for
a rust
and
belt,
or camel hand-
a special finish.
'117
plaid skirt that
and off-white worn
rust, light gray,
is
with an off-white sweater, light gray hose and shoes,
and
a rust purse. Silver earrings finish the look.
Beiges. If
you have
on your color
your hair
is
light hair,
One
chart.
you have two
best beiges
your skin tone and the other
is
color.
Often, the skin tone and hair color match. But
two
possible that these are

Plates 34
and 43 to see
different shades
how
it's
also
of beige. (Study
closely Jeanne's hair
and skin
tone match.) For example, you might have golden beige

hair
all
and ivory-beige
skin. If
we've just described you, by
means wear both shades of beige
but never at the
same
Moreover, heed the following advice when you

wear your hair-tone beige:
time.
Clothing that matches
hair-tone that
than your skin tone beige needs

splash of another
good color
for
is
more golden
"color break," that
you
is,
your face to take the onus off that hair-color beige.

color break could be in the
form of
jewelry provided the piece of jewelry

Here's
a specific
Under
best
prominent enough.
wear
a shirt in
your
bright green or any other super shade for
you. Leave the shirt unbuttoned

the collar so that
it is
can stand the collar
Light-haired
blouse, scarf, or
example:
hair-color beige blazer,
medium
their beige
is
you wear near
that
at
the neck and arrange
on top of the
if you like.
blazer's lapels.
You
up
women
with Light-Bright coloring use
with every other color on their chart. Darker-
haired Light-Bright color types can too, but they
have to add
bright or dark accent
when
may
they combine
beige with another light neutral or pastel.
Off-white, camel, and beige blazers are
necessity in
every Light-Bright color type's wardrobe. Beige
is
also a
necessary neutral for you to use as a purse, belt, and shoe

color.
We recommend
that
you purchase both casual and
dressy shoes in your best beige.
Experiment with these beige looks:
118
COLOR WONDERFUL
beige suit and raspberry blouse accessorized with
pearls,
bone hosiery, and off-white shoes and purse.
Turquoise slacks with
clear light
yellow blouse,
beige jacket, turquoise beads, and shoes and purse in a

color matching your hair; wear skin-tone hose.
White. Pure w^hite
as well as
off-white love you, so
we
hope you love them. You would be wise to include lots

of your best whites in both your clothing and accessory
wardrobes.
We
are not discouraging
your use of your best
off-
white, certainly one of your most versatile and necessary

neutrals.
But we want you
to reahze that the sharp, clean
look of pure white creates an especially fantastic image
woman
for a
with your coloring
Plate 3). This
is
with
in contrast
clear,
it
vibrant colors
white and clear vibrant blue,
red,
(as
does for Brenda in
particularly true w^hen pure white
etc.
white
Here
are
some
worn
and bright
Your creamy whites
can also be combined with other colors to create
and strong contrast
is
medium
effects.
lovely
ways
to
wear white:
white dress, hose, shoes, and purse with
ribbon belt
of hot pink and matching hot pink earrings.
Medium
vibrant blue slacks and a matching top.
wear
white jacket and add white accessories
it
Over
hose, and shoes. Earrings in white, silver, or gold
belt,
com-
plete the look.
Wine and Burgundy. Wines and burgundies, as you

might normally think of them, do not appear on the
charts of women with Light-Bright coloring. In their
place, you may find various shades of deep red, mediumdark vibrant red-purples, bright medium-dark plums, and
clear raspberries.
These deeper values of your best reds, plums, and

must be treated as dark neutrals, and you
must apply the same mix-and-match rules to them as you
raspberries
would
light
to any other dark neutral.

and bright looks with them.
You may
more
In other
words, create
be puzzled because your chart
typical wines
is
devoid of
and burgundies. Let us explain:
Wines and burgundies may be "neutrals," but they're

also toned-down neutrals. Visualize, if you will, a burgundy. Now summon up the mental image of a cranberry
red. Don't you agree that the burgundy is muted-looking,
119
whereas the cranberry red looks
clear,
even somewhat
bright?
As we've
many
said
times before, you need to wear
clear colors at all times.
Try
these outfits in clear versions ot your dark reds.
plums, and raspberries:
Clear plum slacks,
a light clear
pmk
blouse, a light clear
blue-purple jacket, plum beads, pink hosiery, and shoes
and purse
in
your hair color.
Light grav slacks combined with an ott-white blouse,

raspberrv sweater vest, silver necklace and earrings, and
gray hose, shoes, and purse.
Dark Green. Dark
greens seldom appear on
Bright color chart, histead.
the
because
feld's
Jeanne Schoen-
Light-Bright coloring
green
will find a vibrant
Light-
medium-
darkest version of your best shade ot
dark green
In Photo 7.5,
you
so
it's
much more
tlattenng to you.
is
oi'erpou'ered by the large scale
and boldness of the
clear blue
dots on the pure white skirt.
Moreover, her makeup
is
Fabric Textures ami Wei^lits
too
heavy and dark.
"Texture"
refers to the
piece of nylon cloth.
weave of a
Its
piece of fabric.
Take
synthetic fibers are tightly knit.
creating a smooth, shiny tabric. Silk and cotton, on the
other hand, are both natural
woven
t'lbers.
They
tightly, giving the resulting fabric a
sometimes
are
smooth
tniish.
and sometimes woven more loosely, affording a nubby

raw silk fabrics and handknit cotton sweaters,
texture
for example.
Light-Bright color types look great in smooth and

slightly textured tabrics.
ringbones,
Thus, they can wear
twills, her-
basket-weave woolens, and tweeds provided
they have a fairly fine texture and the cloth
is
neither
weight nor simply heavy-looking. They

can also wear looselv woven knits and weaves provided
thev are open weaves and give an airy, light appearance.
(In Plate 3, our model's lace dress has lots of texture, but
heavy
in actual
since the lace
is
and lightweight-looking,
soft
with the dehcate coloring of
Your coloring
is
a bit at
it is
Light-Bright color type.)
odds with any texture
overlv coarse, thick, rough, or burlap-looking.
you look enhanced

120
COLOR IVOSDLRFIL
weight to
it,
such
as
lovely
in material
that
Nor
is
will
with substantial bulk or
very heavyweight woolens.
and Designs
Patterns, Prints,
Regardless of your height or weight, you'll always look

great in small and medium-scale prints (see Plate 32).
you could
wear a fairly large pattern if it is airy and light-looking. In
Photo 7.5 you will see an example of what not to do
when it comes to patterns. Photos 7.2 and 7.6 show you
what to do.
In choosing prints
whether they're plaids, checks, geoLarge, bold designs are not your forte, but
metries, dots, stripes, or florals
to the right levels of contrast.
important to adhere
it's
For you, these levels of
contrast are, as we've noted, strong and
medium.
No
soft
you have light hair and

the prints are very clear and vibrant-
contrast or blended looks unless

the light colors in
looking.
To prove
Jewelry
that
women
with
Light-Bright coloring can wear

dots in the right scale
tern, study
In selecting jewelry, follow these guidelines:
most enhanced by
Size. Light-Bright color types are
red
Jeanne
of pat-
in the bright
and pure white dotted
dress
Photo 7.6. Doesn't she
small and medium-sized jewelry (see Photos 7.7 and 7.8).
in
look 100 percent better? Fur-
tall
it
looks light in
woman
wear one larger piece provided

weight. But the large necklace in Photo
will be able to
7.7 looks just the opposite
Wear
much
as
or as
massive.
little
personality, and the occasion
never
risk
let
jewelry
look of the dress are the clear

light to
your
as
demand.
On
outfit,
your
medium makeup
col-
ors she wears.
the other hand,
yourself look overloaded or overpowered
you always run
ther underscoring the just-right
in selecting accessories to grace
your
delicate coloring.
Metal Colors. Most Light-Bright color types prefer

gold because
it
relates so well to their
golden skin tones.
Other good metals are shiny silver, brass, and bronze.

White gold can be worn if your skin is light ivory in tone.
Metal Finishes. You may wear both smooth and textured metals, but even your textured jewelry must have a
shine or at least
tarnished
metals,
Muted and Gentle
On
subtle glow.
Toned-down
or slightly
women
which look
terrific
coloring, are
most assuredly off limits.

if you were just
on
with
you, they'll look dull and drab, as
too lazy to polish them.
Gems, Semi-Precious
When
Costume Jewelry.
you're buying jewelry, match the colors on your
color chart.
Stones, and
121
Should you happen to have

that's less
way
a favorite piece in a
not only to salvage the piece but to
trick
keep
to
is
make
look
it
on you.
absolutely terrific
The
color
than perfect for you, don't worry. There's
this
away
color
less-than-ideal
from your skin. If the item is a necklace an amethyst

that's too toned-down a purple for you, let's say
that's
easy enough to do. Simply wear that amethyst necklace
on top of a dress or blouse that
You might wear

to strong level
perfect color tor you.
is a
medium
with your best
it
or red, for example. Also
make
sure
you
bright green
medium
create a
of contrast between the necklace and the
garment. In the case of the toned-down amethyst beads,
you should never wear them against

The
light colors.
iicckhh'c JciUiiic Schocntchi
wears
ill
Photo 7.7 doesn't
hear any visual reh^tionship to
her Li^ht-Bri^ht coloring.
And
her
and
It's
and heavy-looking.
too large
makeup
is
too dark
too heavily applied.
You
can be perfectly dressed in
you
are carrying a
all
handbag or attache case
in the
made of a cheap material even if it

it can make your whole outfit look
color or
color
the right colors. Yet if
is
wrong
the right
second-rate
and uncoordinated.
The
rules here are really very simple:
You
need only
own one
one of good quality ahd
camel or your hair color
is
it is
also better to
own
briefcase provided
good shade
it's a
for you.
leather
Your
an outstanding choice.
We
best
feel
fewer handbags that are perfect
color and size for you than
lot
in
of purses of poorer
them from your best neutrals, particularly those neutrals that match your hair and skin
tones. Purses in colors that you wear a lot are also very
workmanship.
useful.
Select
The most
useful neutrals are camel, beige, Hght
gray, off-white, and black
two purses
if it's
on your
chart.
accommodate,
buy one in your hair color and the other in your skin
color. You'll always look coordinated sporting handbags
If
are
all
you
in these colors since
your budget
will
are repeating tones that appear in
your body's natural color scheme.

In
terms of
that are
size,
we recommend you
medium-sized or on the small
bags tend to overwhelm

122
COLOR WOSDERFL'L
ing.
Besides,
small
women
stay with purses
side.
Large hand-
with Light-Bright color-
and medium-sized bags are more
versatile since, in purses, largeness
and dressiness are mu-
tually exclusive.
Avoid
they are
stiff,
structured, heavy-looking purses, even if
medium
You've heard
substances
make
to small in size.
before but we'll say
it
handbag and
the best
it
again: Natural
briefcase materials.
Calfskin, cowhide, patent leather, suede, straw, canvas,
even wooden beaded bags,

looking, are
ing.
all
One
a
long
fine choices for
For spring and summer,
tone or hair color
of
as
is a
they aren't heavy-
women
with your color-
straw purse in your skin
great go-with-everything accessory.
When
final point:
as
you're considering the purchase
purse or attache case with metal ornamentation,
hew
to our guidelines about smooth, shiny metals and compli-
mentarv metal
tones.
Sow
look at Jeanne (Photo
7.8) weariii'^ a medium-sized

necklace. It's just
Shoes
scaled
well.
Our advice about shoe colors and materials echos what

we said previously about handbags and attache, cases.
The day has long passed when women's shoes and
riq^ht.
down her makeup

The clear medium
She's
as
tones
she wears on her eyes, cheeks,
and
lips balance out
her Light-
Bri<^ht look.
handbags must match. As long as your shoes and purse

are in colors that go with your outfit, you'll look coordinated. Start your shoe wardrobe off with both dressy and
casual shoes in your hair color and your skin tone. Add
shoes that match any of your other most used neutrals, or
most used colors. For example, light to medium camel
(main hair color tones)
is
one of your most
versatile
you may use camel-colored shoes a lot; or if

you wear red regularly, shoes in your red might be wise
to own, too.
neutrals, so
All good-quality shoe materials are fine choices, includ-
ing patent leather. If you don't like white shoes, you
may
be able to coordinate shoes in your off-whites or light

beiges with outfits containing a lot of white.
when
would
white shoe
prefer that
is
you
However,
the perfect one for your outfit,
we
get rid of any old prejudices against
white shoes and wear them. Try strap sandals with neutral heels
so there
is less
w'hite
on your
feet.
123
Eyeglass Frames
You
can't be led astray if
match your skin tone or

glasses that allow
you
select eyeglass
hair color.
more of your
Of course,
eyes to
show
frames that
the type of
are frameless
ones.
Whatever frame you choose,
make sure the frame

Heavy or dark-looking
just
appears light in look and weight.
a poor choice. Your Light-Bright coloring

won't stand for it.
In selecting metal frames, follow the dictates about
metallic colors and finishes we laid down under "Jewelry."
frames are
Evening Wear
When
bright,
down
it
comes
clear
to nighttime dress, you're fortunate, for
colors hold their
colors under artificial
Your coloring can
own
better than toned-
night lighting conditions.
also accept the ultra-bright look
of
lame, dazzling metallic fabrics, sequins, and beads in your

best shades
By and
all
made
large,
most dark colors

light,
stay
especially for after-hours wear.
away from very
after five,
or bright accent.
light pastels
and
even with the requisite dark,
Pastels
usually
wash
out,
and
extremely dark colors usually "black out" under night
The end
As they fade out or

become blacker, you fade out with them. And you can
never look vibrant wearing what appears to be the wrong
lighting conditions.
result:
colors for you!
You may
be able to wear black without a light accent if

low-cut dress that leaves a lot of skin showing in
the neck, chest, and shoulder region. If an accent is necesit
is
sary, consider shiny gold jewelry, rhinestones, or pearls.
These add lovely finishing touches to black evening

ensembles for Light-Bright color types.
Furs
124
COLOR WONDERFUL
With your Light-Bright coloring, it's advisable to remain

a devotee of short and medium-haired furs. If you're tall,
you might try such lightweight-looking furs as fox and
lynx even if the hairs are a mite long. Do not overwhelm
your dehcate coloring.
range of occasions,
must serve you day and night tor a

we recommend your most versatile
Your
best shades of white, off-white, beige,
good
Since a
neutral colors.
fur
medium brown,
camel,
gray, and black
if
black
is
on
your chart are all possibilities. Your rust will be sportierlooking on you and therefore would not be a wise choice
if you need a fur that will work over evening wear.
We must caution you that solid-colored furs are more
They can
versatile than their multicolored counterparts.
worn
be
for
both formal and casual occasions and over
patterns as well as solids. Multicolored furs have
look; therefore, they're
ier
more
limiting for
sport-
some
life-
stvles.
Makeup and Hair

Change can be
Coloring Advice
scary.
Mary Lawson, one of our Denver, Colorado,
associ-
has calmed the tremors of several clients
whose
ates,
color charts dictate a significant adjustment in their v^ârd-
robe and makeup.
Mary
In particular,
who
coloring
recalls
one
Her reasons were psychological
down
clarities
made
with the prospect

hght-looking
client
with Light-Bright
had been wearing toned-down
clarities.
rather than visual.
Toned-
her feel safe and unobtrusive. Faced
oi^
switching to
clarity, especially in
panicked. Wouldn't such colors
clear,
bright but
her makeup, this
call
too
much
woman
attention to
her?
Mary's response: "You just looked at yourself in a

hand mirror wearing the correct clear makeup colors for a
woman with your Light-Bright coloring and you're
amazed.
Perhaps you're even
different
you
look.
Of
course,
little
shocked
you look
at
different.
how
You
look wonderful!
"But
in
your surprised
ing something important.
state,
When
think you're overlook-
people look
at
you, they
of you from head to toe, not just your face. Once

you begin wearing the correct clarity of colors and levels
of contrast in your clothing, you'll need this clearer but
dehcate-looking makeup to balance out your image. Othersee
all
Light-Bn^ht Coloring
125
you cared enough

choose the right clothes for yourself but were too lazy
finish the job by applying the right makeup."
Mary's client was afraid of makeup. The opposite
wise, you'll look incomplete, like
often true.
Many women
to
is
with Light-Bright coloring are
too heavy-handed with makeup, applying too

in
to
much of it
colors that are too dark, too strong, or too muted.
That problem
is
depicted in Plate 42.
and amount of makeup for

coloring
is
When
makeup
shown
woman
is
right shades
with Light-Bright
accompanying Photo
in the
43.
Light-Bright color type goes astray in her
color choices, the reason
problem
The
Her
usually simple.
is
of
that she hasn't captured the exciting "feel"
She
Light-Bright coloring.
makeup
that her best
somehow
misses the point
colors coincide with her natural
coloring. They're light and bright. They're never dark,
strong, or toned-down.
Makeup
If
Colors
you're insecure about
cosmetics
is
probably
makeup
of
colors, the purchase
chore for you,
you
project
dread. This needn't be the case.
The advice
in this section has a
twofold purpose:
intended to remove any questions you, as

color type, have about
that,
using
it
should surely
It's
Light-Bright
makeup colors. And, having done

make the process of buying and
makeup more fun
for you,
perhaps even highly
enjoyable.
One of
you are classified as a

Light-Bright color type is because you have clear golden
or ivory tones in your skin. Thus, if you are wearing a
base with pink in it, you are probably wearing the wrong
shade. At the other extreme, if you are wearing a base
with too much brown or peach in it, you're making an
Foundation.
the reasons
equally grievous mistake.

Selecting a base
is
relatively easy. All
duplicate your skin tone exactly.
We
you have
to
do
is
outline the process
of choosing the right makeup base for your complexion

in
Chapter
4.
Blush and Lipstick.
One
tary, learned a lesson in the
126
'
COLOR WO\DERFUL
down
lip
and cheek
client
of ours,
a legal secre-
importance of clear
clarities.
vs.
toned-
woman
This
the
all
has striking Light-Bright coloring, but
brownish red makeup colors she'd been wearing were

wrong for her. A couple of days after her charting
session, she called to thank us for the invaluable advice.
She said so far she'd done nothing more than change her
blush and lipstick to the clear colors on her Color 1 Color
Chart and she'd received compliments
33 and 42
color can do to
Your
tones
is
(Plates
and cheek
a lip
Light-Bright color type.)
medium
best clear, bright red shade in
one of the
you
ideal colors for
cheek, and nail color. This
is
to
to light
wear
as lip,
your red color, the color
you turn when you blush or become

Chapter
day long!
all
what too browned
illustrate
flushed.
(Consult
2.)
You've other options

clear light
plum
and
lipstick, blush,
Your
as well:
best raspberry and
matched in
Remember to wear these
(red-purple) shades can be

nail polish.
colors in their clear, vibrant, as well as light incarnations.
Avoid
dark, strong, intense, brownish, dusty, or
looking shades in any makeup you wear.
muted-
A woman
with
Light-Bright/Gentle coloring, though, will need to wear

a
more toned-down
but she
clarity,
dark, brownish, dusty, and very
Your
needs to avoid
still
toned-down
clarities.
best shade of coral can be used as a lipstick or
you don't
or orange, do you? No. You blush your red
polish color but never
blush coral
blush.
for a
After
all,
color.
Eye Shadow. There

mind here:
are several guidelines to keep in
First, stick with clear to very slightly toned-down eye

shadow colors. (Again, Light-Bright/Gentle color types
must limit themselves to more toned-down shadows.) By
the same token, make sure your eye shadow colors are
light to
dark,
medium
intense
in value.
In other
words, do not wear
eye shadow shades or dusty,
shades. They'll
brownish,
look either too overpowering for
muted
woman
with your delicate coloring on the one extreme or too

drab and dull on the other.
What
color eye
on your color
different effect.
shadow
is
best?
chart, bearing in
To
Any
mind
color that appears
that each renders a
create a range of looks,
eye shadows that match your
you
medium brown,
will
want
gray, light
beige (for a highlighter), blue, blue-green, green, and

least
one shade of purple.
at
L^^ht-Briiiht Coloriii^
127
For conservative business looks or any understated look,

eye shadows that repeat the colors
in
your eyes and
neutral shades are your best bet. Neutral colors and your
eye color shades are always
less
obvious than interjecting
already contained in your eye. You will

your more bluish purple eye shadows are also
a color that isn't
find that
very basic
work well with all of your best shades

complimenting every eye color.
they
as
in addition to
For
conservative looks,
less
of your clothing
nice to repeat the colors
it's
your eye shadow.

For example, whether you have blue, blue-green, brown,
or green eyes, you can wear different combinations of
in
green, blue, turquoise, and purple eye
shadows depend-
ing on the color of your outfit that day.
Eyeliner and Mascara. Brown, black, and navy mascaras
are
fine
most Light-Bright color
for
some Light-Bright
black
if
it
types.
But
to forgo the
looks harsh on them.
Eyeliners can match
make
may have
color types
sure such colors
of your charted colors. Just
all
or the way you apply themdo
harsh or heavily made-up look.
not create
liner color
seems
slightly too dark or
If your eyepronounced, smudge
the line to diffuse the darkness.
Darker
Lighter Color Values. Although
vs.
Bright and Contrast color types

colors
on
types
who
their charts,
it is
Light-
have the clearer
Light-Bright and Gentle color
have the more delicate coloring.
these delicate color types, less
these types,
makeup goes
On
both of
further.
On
dramatic looks can be achieved with rela-
medium and
tively
who
it is
light, less intense colors.
Thus, both
Light-Bright and Gentle color types should always en-
deavor to keep their makeup
/(t^/zr-looking,
but not washed-
out or pale-looking.
On
the other hand, nighttime lighting conditions pose
certain challenges that can't be overlooked. After the sun

a
sets,
her
she'll
all
woman
look pale. Her
Here
heavy look,
are
Hewing
COLOR WONDERFUL
slightly stronger hand.

lipstick, blush,
like that
some other
to
lipstick, gives
'
Otherwise,
and eye shadows can
be stronger-looking, but she mustn't overdo
create a
128
with Light-Bright coloring should apply
makeup with
strictly casual.
of
it
and
painted kewpie doll.
makeup guidelines:
makeup tones, especially
you more of a "nonmakeup" look that
your
general
lightest
in
is
You
can wear your medium-dark
but
never deep
shadow, and blush tones when you are very

w^hether it's a daytime or evening event.
Medium-dark makeup tones may also be called for with a
lipstick,
dressed up
you
you don't overdo
particular high fashion look
Just
make
sure
are trying to achieve.

it
with colors that are
too strong or intense.
Your clear and vibrant blushes can be purchased in

medium, or medium-dark values. Obviously, apply medium or medium-dark tones of blush more lightly.
light,
On
the other hand, if your blush
you may have
You
effect.
wear more of
to
is
it
very clear and
ahvays be wearing
will
less
blush in the
daytime to accompany conservative business
you
will
wear
attire
when
night for festive occasions
at
light,
to achieve the desired
than
lights
are low.
Any
time you wear ensembles comprised of stronger
wearing two of your lighter-looking,

together,
example you
need
color combinations
vibrant colors
will
for
increase the level of your
makeup
accordingly.
to
However,
under no circumstances must you ever wear very strong

or dark, heavy-looking makeup.
It
looks harsh, hard, and
out of keeping with your delicate coloring. If
we
really
wanted to frighten you enough to keep you from doing

it, we'd sav it would make vou look old! It will.
Coordinating Your
Maybe
to
you're
wear with
still
Makeup and
puzzled about the best
specific outfits.
it's
done
There you
makeup
colors
We're about to give you
several hypothetical examples to help
how
Clothing Colors
you get
a feel for
for Light-Bright coloring.
dressed in
red-white-and-turquoise
sundress accessorized with
bright yet lightweight-
are,
looking necklace and bracelet of turquoise and
silver.
Your accessories are red patent leather shoes and belt.

Your purse could be red, white, or turquoise. If you are
wearing hose, they would be sheer white or skin tone.
So,
you
ask, w^hat colors
do
apply to
my
face?
This colorful outfit demands makeup colors to match.
We recommend
turquoise eye
shadow and
eyeliner wdth
Light-Briqht Coloring
129
an eye shadow highlighter of clear silver gray, white, or
For mascara, choose black or dark brown.
light beige.
Your
and
cheek,
lip,
shade in your dress
Now
match the red
color should
a clear, bright,
you have on
medium
nail
but
l{^ht-lookifig tone.
bright raspberry-pink blouse,
and
or light green skirt,
an ivory jacket,
green malachite pendant that matches the green of your
Your
skirt.
hose, shoes, and
handbag
are ivory.
For an enhancing makeup look, match the green of
your
and
skirt
eyeliner.
Use
eye shadow and

shadow of ivory or light
if you wish. Your mascara is black or
pendant
your
in
highlighter eye
beige or even pink,
dark brown. Repeat the raspberry shade of your blouse in
your
lipstick, blush,
and
nail polish.
Suppose you're dressed
Your blouse
suit.
for business in a
coral,
is
golden camel
your earrings and
simple
neck chain are gold, your shoes and purse are camel or
medium golden brown, and your hose
Your
goal
is
an understated
choose to create
nails
so
you would
brown
medium
or beige highlighter. Select
medium golden brown, and
eyes with dark
and
makeup look
neutral eye with camel to
brown eye shadow and cream

eyeliner in a
are skin tone.
finish off
your
Adorn your
or black mascara.
lips
with the coral shade of your blouse.
If you'll recall
what we
said earlier,
you must never use
shade of blush on your cheeks. Substitute instead
a coral
your best red shade. The only concession you might try
is
to place a tiny
amount of your
coral blush
on your
cheeks and apply your red blush over that to bring your
blush shade
mite closer to your
lip
and
nail color.
up in a white wool suit topped

navy and white printed blouse, navy and
white spectator pumps on your feet, and a navy purse.
Finally, you're dressed
off with
Your hose
are very sheer white, navy, or
your skin tone.
This time your eye shadow should be blue with

light
navy.
130
'
COLOR IVOXDERFUL
beige or off-white highlighter.
Your mascara
brown.
is
Your
either navy, black, or
very
eyeliner
is
even dark
For
and
lipstick, blush,
your best
light
from among
you choose
on your cheeks or if you
nail polish, select
plum, raspberry,
coral, or red. If
remember not to wear it

to mix it with your red blush.
coral,
do,
Hair Coloring
In lightening their hair, the
color types
it.
make
is
most
to allow too
common
mistake Gentle
much of a golden
Beige or champagne tones would be more

Conversely,
women
tone in
flattering.
with Light-Bright coloring tend
to err in the opposite direction:
They allow too much
ash,
rather than golden tones, in their hair. This often happens
because their hair loses color rapidly during the hghtening

process,
often faster than the colorist anticipates.
result
hair that ends
is
cause the hair has been completely stripped of
ment. Fortunately, there are

hair just
to
The
up too white or ash-looking be-
now
its
pig-
products that lighten
the perfect shade and then the lightening
action stops.
What
colors are possibilities for
women
with Light-
Bright coloring wishing to lighten or color their hair?
You
can't
go wrong
if
you pick out one of your
hair's
natural highlight colors and lighten your hair to that shade.
Or
simply take your main hair color several shades Hghter.

On women with Light-Bright coloring, the most prev-
alent hair highlight color
looking. Thus,
if
is
it
is
golden
in
your intention
tone but not brassyto
darken your hair
retains a strong
medium brown,
medium brown you choose
golden highhght. Otherwise your new
medium brown
color will clash with the golden tones or
from
natural golden camel color to a
let's say,
make
sure that the
of your skin.
Should you decide to lighten or highlight your hair or
want to hide your gray hair by coloring it, be careful.
Don't overdo it by allowing too much of a golden tone to
clear ivory tones
Your
your
hair.
for a
honey blond,
hair will
a
coloring
to use color to
Work
champagne blond.
and you
help you look gorgeous in
wheat shade, or
Your Light-Bright
now know how
end up looking brassy.
is
truly unique,
your clothing and makeup. You are ready to begin Part

III, where you can apply all of your new color knowledge
and learn to cast your very special color spell!
Li^ht-Bri^ht Coloring
131
Chapter 8
Wardrobe Advice for

Contrast Coloring
You may
did
think wearing the right colors
is
important. But
you ever consider how important? One of our
St.
Louis associates reports that switching to the right colors

after
wearing the wrong ones for years actually kept one
of her
clients
The
client
from being fired.

was a professional
woman who
of her firm's largest accounts. She was
handled one
Contrast color
type but according to our associate you'd never have
known
it
from the
outfits she
wore. Her closet was
with muted, toned-down colors
and heathery tweeds.

trast coloring,
Our
that
her, a
lots
filled
of browns, khaki,
woman
with high con-
they looked absolutely blah!
associate steered her client
were making
woman
On
this
away from
the colors
highly competent professional
appear so insignificant. She replaced those old,
do-nothing colors with
clear,
bright, vibrant colors
and
The client loved her

woman's employer. Months
strong contrast color combinations.
new
later,
132
COLOR WONDERFUL
look.
And
so did this
her superior
at
work admitted
that the executives at
the firm had been on the verge of firing her simply for
having the wrong image.
It
was her color and wardrobe
transformation that helped to save her job.

Like this
Elizabeth Taylor. Liza Minnelli,
client,
Au-
drey Hepburn, Kate Jackson, Jaclyn Smith, and Joan Col-
we
need to follow the rules
lins
are about to enunciate.
For they. too. are Contrast color types.
Your Best Color
Clarities
The primary mistake

clarity
dued
clarities
opposite
when
she should have been wearing just the
type's appearance
color can
is
ingston oi Pendleton,
in a
Plates 36
Contrast color
and
37.)
frequently committed by
with Contrast coloring.

right
make
by comparing
This color crime
own
(Look
either intense clarities or bright clarities.
at the vast difference
her
was making concerned
the client
of colors. She was wearing toned-down and sub-
Our
associate Alice
Oregon
women
Marie Liv-
Contrast color type in
admits she too labored under
similar color
misconceptions.
"I
used to wear toned-down colors because of
ber of
says.
silly
notions
had about color
"One of them was
expensive-looking,
that
num-
in general." Alice
toned-down
more modest, and
colors are
more
dignified. Needless
whole new world has opened up to me now that

wardrobe is filled with the bright cavalcade of colors I
to say, a
my
should have been wearing
Some Contrast color

who are starting
along."
types in their late thirties and
forties
problem and graying
all
to
have
middle-aged weight
hair are often the
worst offenders
in
regard to clarity of color. Dressed in muted colors, they

think people won't notice
But the opposite

such
women
is
them
as
much.
toned-down
actually true: In
colors,
appear ten to fifteen years older than they
really are.
Contrast CoUviii'^
133
Best Clarity of Colors for Contrast Color Types

Color Type
dark color with both a light and a bright
clear purple, white,
color, e.g.,
white, and bright blue, as in Photo 8.2,
black,
and bright
dark
red.
bright color with a light color, e.g., bright blue and
white, bright turquoise and clear light pink, bright pur-
and
ple
clear light green.
Two medium-toned
bright colors
Plate 45), e.g.,
(as in
bright purple and bright blue-green, bright blue and
bright coral.
bright color with a light,
(see Plate 37),
medium, or dark neutral
bright fuchsia and
e.g.,
medium
gray,
camel and bright green.
Two
neutrals that create
Many
medium
to
neutral combinations look best
accent color
strong levels of
black and white; navy and hght gray.
contrast, e.g.,
added
is
and white with
them
to liven
when
a third bright
up, e.g., dark gray
bright red accent.

The above represent combinations you can wear forknowing you'll always look beautifully enhanced
and well coordinated. On the other hand, there are two
ever,
wear unless you add
not wear two dark colors together unless you add
color combinations
you can
never
third accent color:
Do
light
and/or bright accent near your
example, wear
white accent.
navy and
Or add white
a
clear
face.
You
might, for
dark red outfit with
to the
combination of black
and brown. (See Plate 37 for an example of two darker

colors wôrn together with
Do
bright accent.)
washed-out our model looks
white combination.)
outfit could
pink accent.
need
jectives
not wear two light colors together unless you add
dark and/or bright accent near your
how
clear light
be accented with
clear pastel blue
a bright red belt
shows
face. (Plate
"Undistinguished" and "or-
dinary" are certainly not ad-
36 shows
in this light blue
and
pink and light gray
dark gray or bright hot
and white dress would
and shoes, for instance. Photo 8.3
Contrast model wearing two light colors to-
Helene
you would use

in
to describe
Photo 8.2. Here
she wears a hold-patterned dress.
The
stripes of white, black,
and bright blue
create a light-
dark-bright combination that

only a Contrast could carry
off.
Her makeup
cate the strength

fit's
colors dupli-
of the out-
colors.
Photo 8.4 shows the same

but this time she's added a bright
gether without an accent.
model
in the
same
suit,
accent. Isn't the difference remarkable?

If
vou want
to
wear
all
one color head to
toe,
we
Contrast Coloriiig
135
recommend
using your medium-toned bright colors. For
example, our model

red
would look
in Plate 16
great in her
worn head to toe. even without the accent oi the

The monotone look is not as successful in light or
scarf.
dark colors with the possible exceptions of
black.
soHd dark brown
perhaps
in
both places
white or
all
example, would
the neck or waist
at
needed contrast. A
might need a bright
matching clear light
to create the
dark clear blue-green blouse and

fuchsia belt, necklace,
for
dress,
require a light or bright accent
all
skirt
or scarf.
blue slacks and sweater outfit could use rust accessories.
Your Best NeutraJs

While
it's
browns,
true that neutrals
rust,
other colors, this does not

is
neutral,
mean
so to speak.
you've seen them
all.
black,
and white
beiges,
If
camel, gray, navy,
coordinate
well with
that a neutral
is a
neutral
you've seen one brown,
This couldn't be further from the
truth.
Neutrals
come
and
So when
in different shades
ues just as other colors do.
various neutrals, bear in
mind
camel that looks good on you
clarities
we
that the beige or
may
and val-
discuss the
navy or
not be the same shade
of beige or navy or camel that looks good on your friend

w^ho also happens to be
Contrast color type. The subtle
variations in your natural coloring require subtle shading

variations in aD the colors
you wear, includmg
neutrals.
There's no doubt that neutrals are handy colors to have
your wardrobe. You can build all kinds of looks

from summen' to w^mtery, from conservative to high
fashion, either by using your neutrals alone, your colors
alone, or a mixture of your neutrals and other colors.
in
What
follo\\^s is a
rundown on
you may w-ant
and Hght
if
the neutrals
^both dark
on your shopping
your closet:
to include
they aren't already hanging in
list
The majority of all Contrast color types can

wear black. However, many Contrast color ryês need to
accent black viith hght or bright colors for their most
Black.
enhancing look.
Those bright or hght colors can

yeUow% or purple, or otlê-^
red,
136
COLOR WONDERFUL
gray, camel, beige, or white.
either be colors such as
^furrals such as hght
brown
hair 1 deep
ULiv be aibile
^laiie rlrar
we^^ b^ck
tso-
m ax aIl-oiie>-cQk5r look.
It our
aid eve makeup
:r iccaics oil vqut troctv.
mav be 1 brunetce Con erase
'-f-
dcTP eane. bLiaBr fipsckk

^fcufe-g
On
are nroviiinur die
die odier
Anvtnne
or
hair
wear
voii
vott
h:tTTii-
Your
color rvpe.
'jT-L
or
b verv nearfv blacfc vcni
ire 2 Contrast oaior nrpe wnji biadt haJF
vou
Et
binsh.
dark t
:s
crrcwiL
vou
biaidc
---_-
voor
brigia: color iccenc edsh:
r^
tace
use 1
or. ar die
vour waisc Large, srmrv mecaL Je^r^rv

eeded co provide
^'om ic die aeodine is otisai lil
ritr ;Lsirj. ~rirp near vour ace.
cfmnen wich. Concrasc colomut will mrd biack an exHTmefv pracncai nemxal inr dLoes^ be&s. srd pirs^. Evai
-rerceror
iMC CfEHic-
^renr lease
a:
'
bas
_-^ _
Bbck dmiv
pa(r;;r::
afaieic
~e? jcok.
wQaoiortuL
wQUKir
Iface are
eider
accessories are an :;cTicn ror
widt. Conizu--'
some
fcr
.'
Wcrar a ruiot suit wicl a
oumr
cessorize die
silver eamnsis.
black
.r
Ac-
~"-inc -_r.:'-Cise rLCuse.
er iieci^c^f. rîTxûoise
jnc
sheer biack hose, and black snces
mc
wirti a
sl...
purstf.
~
acsji
irav.
:îeer
Hack hose ami
\ise jnd.
:ok
wim
red siioes and purse.
rronertes
r-jr
-Ti".
who
are a Contrast color c^pe.
vour hair is an exodLent color tor

dochmg: nems or .ficcessories. You will
sc:ace ot
ou. oriuer
want CO cwit bc'"

Comxasc color
:e.
__
^_
__
resr
brovn: with: her best medmm-value brtaitt colors or die

v ib rant !iH:br pasteis on her chart.
- ^ Contnst color rvpe wxtk dark
For ixamrle.
^ vj ^r
brc^vn bair 'vî.- _
'
viars.
rrj
die lar""-
vn
aon
cone vrvnx
suit
wini suces. a
iccessones with,
reit.
mc
purse
shmv iold onramenram a mecicm-
-^ her hair color, a blouse

reti.
.md die
tTTTTshnTtf:
Domdr ot a brc
gold befiied aeddace wndi gold earroMis.

^leer brown or skm Done.
Ffc-se
A-n
anc
can re
Cmthut Ciiam^
IF^
Or
same dark brown skirt worn with the same

a vibrant medium-toned blue blouse, an
ott-white jacket, and the same handsome gold earrings
the
accessories;
and necklace of brown and gold beads.

you're
If
Contrast color type with hair that
looking, even though
your brown
you. But
will be a
it still
good
won't be
Camel. Camel
is
really
is
it
very dark
hair,
as basic as black.
good
neutral for
shade and avoid too blended
right
black-
shoe, belt, and purse color for
women
with Con-
coloring provided they are careful to select
trast
is
brown
look
it
in the
when
they
combine it with other colors. Your best shade of camel is

same color family as your skin tone.
Camel and dark brown combined, for instance, create
a soft contrast, which is not a look enhancing to any
in the
woman
will
with Contrast coloring. Camel worn with black
work
medium
two
since these
combined
neutrals
create a
contrast look.
It's always great to combine camel with your best

medium-toned bright colors. For example, imagine yourself in these handsome casual outfits:
Camel
and
slacks, socks,
mere sweater,
loaters,
with
a scarf
bright green cash-
bold geometric design in
camel, bright green, and beige, and gold earrings.
Matching red
belt,
shoes,
slacks and blouse, camel-colored blazer,
and purse, camel hose, and earrings and
necklace in gold.
Gray.
On
Contrast color types,
medium
with another neutral most often requires
add the necessary contrast
A medium
gray
effect.
with
suit
gray
worn
third color to
You might
wear:
pure white blouse and
bright red belt, shoes, and handbag, for example.
Use
sheer gray or skin-tone hose.
Light or
medium
bright and vivid
gray
now
worn with
that's
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
second color
that's
another story.
light gray suit coordinated
with an intense blue or
purple blouse will look stunning.

138
It
would be
interest-
ing to accessorize such an outfit with sheer black hose
and black shoes and purse, but you could also use gray
accessories, as well as add a shiny silver necklace and
earrings.
A medium
wide
gray and white vertical-stnped
and purse, and
belt, shoes,
Charcoal gray
is
skirt
tairly
white blouse, white hose, tuchsia
stripes, a crisp
silver earrings
dark neutral which,
and bracelet.
should
like black,
be coordinated with light or bright colors. Gray shoes,

belts,
hair
is
own
and purses become an absolute necessity when your

salt-and-pepper. gray, or white. You will want to
both casual and dressy shoes in your best gray.

is a smashing way to wear dark gray:
Here
Dark gray
worn with
pin-striped slacks,
a print
blouse
of cream, black, and gray, black shoes, purse, and hose,

and
silver earrings.
Navy. This
another dark neutral that always needs
is
light or bright color to create needed contrast.
many
the
possibilities are a clear,
shade such
as
vibrant, light-looking
vivid pink or yellow,
bright color such
as a
or
such
a light neutral
medium
as stark
When vou wear navy
Among
medium-toned
bright coral or blue-green,
white or light gray.
or any of your other neutrals or
on the bottom half of your body as skirts or slacks,

don't forget to balance your ensemble by bringing a
touch of the bottom color up to the top half of your body
m the form of a scarf or necklace or. at the extrerne,
a matching jacket. It is especially crucial to add this
colors
finishing touch if
you
are putting together a three-color
look.
One
suggestion: If you wear
consider buying
a lot ot
navy, you might
a lapis lazuli necklace, as this is a natural
semi-precious stone in
deep rich blue color that works
a navy accent.
Experiment with these smart-looking navy
well as
navy
skirt,
outtits:
vibrant fuchsia blouse, white jacket, navy
lapis beads, sheer
bone stockings, navy and white spec-
and a navy purse.

navy suit with a light gray blouse, a gray-navy-red
scarf, sheer gray or sheer navy hose, navy shoes and
purse, and silver earrings.
tators,
Contrast Coloring
139
White.
What about pure
coloring? Pure white
trast
whii
is
bright color.
Here
are
some
guidelines:
Pure white
is
always
Pure white
is
fitie
pr
fuic in a
from the waist
You may wear pure white abovt

dark color
face.
(See
a scart. nee
accciif (e.g..
Photo
8.4.)
Because pure white

able to
wear
monotone look
makeup.
It
acts like a
a solid pure u'hitc
0/
you
provided
tj
you use pure white
cheek colors must be clear and vibra
Your
lip
color also will act as a
keep your teeth
which
rarely ar
ing dull or yellowed.
Best shades o\ cream whites
used by
The
palc-ivi-palc outfit
Mills models
in
Helenc
Photo 8.3
might be salvaged with the addition
first
or even second choice oj
women
with Helene's Con-
trast coloring.
makeup
Her
similarly pale
doesn't help matters

either.
Conn
with
un
not act like bright colors,
with
ot'
you
bright or dark color to
Some
ing effect.
such as this should never be
women
"best" white, so most
clear bright or dark
of a
accent. Still, soft contrast effects
the
do
all
oi
you
'
ci
will b
head to toe and look lovely.

Occasionally, a brown-hairec
coloring finds herself
more
enh;
best off-white combination tha:

tion
of black and pure white. 1
pure white creates too bright

ing.
But
whose
this
hair
is
close to black.
is
seldom,
black or
it
eve
black-
Unlike white, your best beiges must always be

coordinated with at least one bright or dark color to
Beijês.
ensure the necessary level of contrast.
Never
try to
wear
monotone look
in a beige shade, as
beige does not have the bright quality of white. For this
reason,
they cannot stand by themselves on
with your extreme light-dark coloring
and
(as in
woman
Photos
8.
8.5).
Your
beiges match your skin tones and thus
make
excel-
and purse colors for you. Here are suggestions for ways to wear beige:
lent shoe, belt,
beige suit with
black blouse, black belt with
gold
buckle, gold earrings, black shoes and purse, and skin-
toned hose.
Vibrant green slacks and matching sweater,

jacket, shoes,
beige
and purse, skin-toned hosiery, and gold
necklace and earrings.

Rust. For
as a
with
a Contrast color type, rust needs to be treated

dark neutral, and you will always have to wear it
hght or
For example, a lot of

and winter, try to do rust,
blue, and brown combinations. Depending on the tone of
those colors, that combination can look too blended on a
woman with Contrast coloring. However, if the shades
of those colors are exactly right for you and if the blue is
a
bright accent.
people, particularly in the
fall
enough and worn near the top of the outfit, you

have a fabulous fall and winter look.
Rust is a neutral that will mix with nearly every mediumtoned bright or light color to form a wonderful contrast
bright
will
effect
on you. Rust shoes could be worn whenever you

your outfit.
are incorporating rust in
By
definition,
clarity.
to
summon up
Then
wine and burgundy
To demonstrate
muted
their
the mental
image of
picture a cranberry red.
toned-down
are a
quality,
we want vou
wine or burgundy.
When compared
biirgundy shade, doesn't cranberry red have
to that
clearer,
brighter effect?
You
require that clear quality in
all
the colors
wear, whether they're dark or light in value. This

no Contrast color type will ever find the more
shades of wine or burgundy on her color chart.
You
however, have your
do,
on your
these colors
fuchsias, raspberries,
These are
nations.
will look
why
typical
best versions of
They are your bright plums,

and reds worn in their darkest incarchart.
all
dark but
clear,
vibrant shades that
smashing on you.
Remember
to
In short,
your best dark values of plum,

as you would other dark neu-
treat
tuchsia. raspberry,
trals.
own
is
you
and red
always combine them with
or
light
bright color.
Hclcnc Mills,
type,
slioiilii
Connast
color
always wear
iiinDi to stroi[^ levels of

trast.
and
Ill
{^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^pj^ of great
for
vou
to
trv:
con-
Photo H.5. the blouse
suit are both in luiryinj^
for HeHer makeup is
deep,
clear
fuchsia
sweater, turquoise earrings, shoes and purse the color
blended a look
lene's coloriiii^.
Vibrant turquoise slacks with
'
values oflniê, which creates too

soft or
"burgundv" looks
iiic-
also too pale.
of
your
deep clear red
hair,
and sheer hair-colored hose.

suit
with
light
gray blouse, sheer
gray hose, gray or black shoes and purse, and silver

jewelry.
Dark Green. Dark green seldom

color type's chart because
vibrant
appears on
Contrast
medium-dark green
the darkest value of your best shade ot green
much more
is
usually
flattering.

Contrast and
Muted
color types have the widest
lati-
tude in their choice of fabric textures and weights.

"Te.xture" refers to the weave of
example,
is
or
142
COLOR U'OXDERFL'L
sleek
is
a tightly
woven
a fabric.
fiber.
Of
tor
fiber resulting in a cloth that
and solid-looking. Nylon, of course,
manmade
Nylon,
is
synthetic
the natural fibers, there are
types: animal fibers (wool. silk, mohair, alpaca)
two
and vege-
table fibers (cotton, kapok, flax,
woven
into fabrics with
many
hemp). These
fibers are
different textures. Indeed,
same fiber can result in a material whose texture is

smooth and almost nonexistent to one that is extremely
rough and coarse.
For example, wool is used to make such fine, elegant
material as French flannel as wtII as the more loosely
woven twêeds. Cotton appears in tightly woven shirt
material as often as you see it in textured knits. Silk
comes in several incarnations, ranging from the delicate,
diaphanous fabric most often used for evening wear to
nubby textured raw silk cloth. The texture of the raw silk
shirt in Photo 8.5 is lovely on Helene; it's just that she
the
needs to increase the level of contrast in her clothing
and makeup.
There
fabric
is
The same
further distinction to be made:
velvet, herringbone wool, cotton knit
comes
in
different weights or thicknesses.
color type imposes no fabric weight

on you, but your body weight and structure
can. If you want certain parts of your body to look
smaller or thinner, you should avoid bulky-looking ma-
Your Contrast
restrictions
terials in
those areas.
The same
who
fine silk
on the one extreme or as heavily textured as

and wide-wale corduroy at the other
much more
exciting
and
and black lum-
the bright red
berjack plaid jacket in Photo

8.6.
rule applies to textures: For Contrast color
wish to appear more slender, limit yourself to

smooth and slightly textured garments. Otherwise, anything goes. You can wear garments that are as smooth as
types
How
vibrant Helene looks wearing
Her
blouse and skirt are
solid black.
The bright-dark
combination
tive
is
extremely
effec-
on Contrast color types.
Her makeup
is
also stronger,
beautifully fmishing her look.
tapestry, brocade,
extreme.
Should you have narrow shoulders or wide hips that

you want to disguise using fabric textures and weights,
choose your blouses, jackets, and other tops in more
heavily textured or weighty fabrics and your skirts and
slacks in smoother and only slightly textured fabrics.
Patterns, Prints,
Of the
and Designs
four major color types, only Contrast color types
can seldom wear small patterns and prints.
woman
tempt
to
Indeed,
with Contrast coloring should never even
wear
tions: the print
smaller print unless
it
at-
meets two condi-
must have extreme dark-light
contrast in
Contrast Coloring
143
such
it,
as black
with white; and the print must be ac-
cented with another sohd splash of color

accent color that
is
preferably
An example of this would
bright.
an
be
small navy and white polka dot dress accented with a red
belt,
and shoes. Also effective
earrings,
is
solid-color
accessory in one of the print's predominant colors, for
example,
black and white small-print blouse, black skirt,
and large black beads.

Conversely, Contrast color types are the only ones
who
always look enhanced
Plate 36 (the
wrong
in large,
bold designs. Study
look) and Photo 8.2 and Plate 20 (the
right look), as well as the fabric swatches in Plate 35 to

see the truth
of these statements.
Because they're short,

The
and pen-
tiny iôld chain
dant Helene Mills wears
Photo
8.
is
and
too small
fore looks insii^niftcant
woman
ing.
with her
is
on a
stron<^ color-
Medium- and
jewelry
in
there-
large-scale
always preferable
for
Contrast color types. The only
way
they can
iêt
away with
small-scale jewelry
is
wear several pieces

Helene's makeup
is
if they
wear large
also too
dynamite
in
think they can't
This
their color type.
is
with Contrast coloring will look
The
strongly contrasting design.
bold,
of
women
five-foot-one-inch, dark-haired, ivory-
woman
or olive-skinned
moral here: Forevermore, stay away from the vast majority
of prints that are small
Jane
in scale. You'll
them. Your coloring
in
height
determines
not
The
keep
look
like a plain
your body type and
your print and pattern
how you
weight and structure determine
together.
lightly applied.
prints regardless
not true. Even
of
a lot
sizes.
Body
use large patterns.
guidelines about levels of contrast are important to
in
mind when you are

whose colors
selecting
yourself to prints
prints.
create a strong or
Confine
medium
level ot contrast.
Should you happen
to
own
garment with
a print that
whose colors do not create the

extreme dark-light contrast you need to look your best,
is
small in scale and
There may be a way to salvage it

background color is a good one for
you; at least two of the other colors are among your best;
and no "bad" colors predominate.
You can make it look better than it ever has before by
don't throw
it
out.
provided: the print's
adding
a solid contrasting accent
a belt, scarf,
or beads
in
one of the strongest of your best colors already in the

print to heighten the whole outfit's level of contrast.
Let's say you have a dress in a small paisley design. It's
composed of light gray, white, and a small amount of
black. Because of the small design, such colors, even at a
short distance, create
wear
144
COLOR WONDERFUL
a soft
contrast or blended effect.
black vest or jacket over this dress and presto!
create the exciting illusion of a
medium
But
You
contrast outfit.
On
what would happen
the other hand, consider
simply donned
The
dress.
etYect
if
you
white or gray vest or jacket over the
of the outfit would remain that of
a soft
contrast.
Jewelry
Your
you
visually powerful natural coloring allows
wear the
largest
and heaviest-looking jewelry. Bold,
to
in-
novative jewelry designs look handsome on you. while

pieces
don't have enough impact.
small,
delicate
moral:
Only wear jewelry
that
statement (see Photos 8.7 and
makes
The
strong visual
8.8).
Ethnic, antique, and contemporary jewelry are
all
fine
III
long
as
such
as
as
they are
medium
to large pieces. Smaller items
gold or silver chains or lovely small pendants
need to be combined so they have more impact. Wear

several together or combine small pieces with medium
and large pieces. If you have a long string of pearls or

other beaded necklaces, you may double-wrap them or
tie knots in them to create a larger-looking neck accent.
Another way
more
a
to create a stronger accent
is
to twist
two or
necklaces together. Try this with a strand of pearls,
Photo 8.8 Hclcne wears
same
the
this
time
hii{iht
yellow hlouse,
settiw;^
it
necklace of hlack
silver.
Her
off with a
onyx and
coloriiij^
needs sub-
stantial pieces of jewelry such
Her makeup is
medium and darker
done
as this.
also
in
tones
here,
^îi'inii
''t'''
''
if'nch
more
radiant look.
strand of colorful beads (turquoise, jade, or coral), and a
gold or silver chain.
Be
wear
as
extravagant as you want with jewelry.
earrings, a necklace, a bracelet,
all
can
and rings simulta-
gypsy. Just take care that

harmonize with each other and add
neously without looking

the different pieces
You
like a
your outfit.
But before you add a piece of jewelry, make sure it
meets these criteria:
Size. No matter what your height, you may wear large
and medium-sized pieces. But small is out unless you
combine them to create a stronger visual impact.
Remember, if you want to you can create the illusion
of size and bulk simply by wearing more than one necklace or bracelet or ring at a time. Think in terms ot
showcasing a whole collection ot jewelry pieces on your
neck or wrist or hands. Do avoid, however, the looks ot
"a ring on every tlnger." and "I always wear all of my
to
jewelry because I'm afraid to leave
it
home."
Metal Colors. Good metals on you are gold, shiny

silver, a golden-toned (never greenish) brass, white gold,
Contrast Coloring
145
and platinum
(if
trast color types
copper
may
your skin
is
ivory). Darker-skinned
should avoid the
be used but
best
it's
latter
two
worn with
Con-
metals. Shiny
bright clarities
and/or light colors to create needed contrast.
Metal Finishes. Shiny, highly polished metals are your

Both smooth and textured metals are fine provided
any textured metal has a bright, shiny finish or at least a
best bet.
Off
subtle glow.
down
you
limits to
are the dull,
women
metals that are so attractive on
more tonedwith Muted
and Gentle coloring.
Gems, Semi-Precious Stones, and Costume Jewelry.

Your best colors are your guide in the selection of jewelry
in these categories.
Often we've encountered
clients
who
are startled
when
they compare the contents of their jewelry boxes with their
With anguish, they realize that some of their

most expensive jewelry items are in the wrong tones for
them. After a desperate phone call to us, they're equally
color charts.
relieved to learn that these pieces can
still
be
worn
to
telling effect.
How?
Pretend you
real
own
strand of real pearls. Pearls, both
and simulated, come
off-white.
What
if
your
in
many
shades of white and
real pearls are a
more golden
ivory tone and, thus, look yellowish next to your skin?
What should you do? The answer
is don't wear them next

wear them on top of a blouse or
sweater, provided the color of your top is anything but
to
your
skin.
Instead,
white, off-white, or beige.
handbag
is
an important accessory. People
study your purse intently, but

total
image
beat-up but
it is
always noticed
may
not
one part of a woman's

second-rate or
that
is
may
not be noted specifically
if it's
if it's
of good
quality and an appropriate style and color. Better to have
people overlook your purse because

notice
it
because
You may
it's all
it
looks right than
wrong.
already be aware of handbag basics, such as
the fact that smaller bags are dressier than larger bags
146
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
made of natural materials

those made of synthetics. It is
that purses
are
ble to
far
and
always prefera-
more important
to
own two
good-quality handbags than an assortment of
cheaper purses in
all
the colors of the rainbow. If
you
are
businesswoman, you will want the one attache case you

to be in your hair color and to be of good quality.
We hope you long ago discarded the old-fashioned
notion that your purse and shoes or your attache case,
shoes, and purse
must match. True, your purse, shoes,
and attache case must coordinate with each other as well
as with your clothing, but they do not have to match
a
own
each other.
You
will always
want
to
own
both dressy and casual
purses in your hair color and your skin color. That
way
coordmated because you are repeating

a color that is eternally a part of your total look
the
color on top ot your head and the color of your skin.
Your hair color is an excellent choice for your attache
you'll always look
case.
Other good colors for you to match in your handbags,

and also possibilities for an attache case, are all of the
other neutrals on your chart. They will include the following: black, beige, brown, camel, white, gray, navy,
and rust, all in your best shades.
Note that camel is a medium-toned shade you can wear
year-round, which makes it particularly useful as a handbag and shoe color. Equally practical is a straw or wicker
purse in your skin tone. It will serve you in spring,
summer, and early fall.
Shoes
The
points
we
stressed in the preceding section concern-
ing natural materials and neutral go-with-everything colors apply equally to shoes.
Shoes in colors that you wear
a lot will also
get a great
wardrobe of neutral-colored shoes

first, both dressy and casual shoes in shades that match
your hair and skin tones. Then add shoes in your other
neutral and most used colors.
x^s a Contrast color type, you are enhanced by pure
white, and it's likely you own several summer outfits
featuring a lot of white. Should you wear white shoes
deal of wear. Build a
with these clothes?
We
like
pose
this
question because
all-white shoes.
They
feel
many women do
not
pure white shoes are
Contrast Cohvii^^
147
and
attention-getters,
you
feet? If
who wants
to call attention to their
white shoes, the trick
dislike
is
to
make
sure
you buy have a neutral heel and have very

little white body to them like a lightweight-looking
strapped sandal with as few thin white straps as possible.
that the shoes
Eyeglass Frames
Once
again,
it's
an excellent idea to purchase your eye-
match
glass frames in colors that
color
the
apparent overall color ot
skin tone.
your main hair

your hair or your
either
frame that combines ycûr hair
tortoiseshell
and skin colors seems an obvious choice. Unfortunately,

this
is
worn with formal
sporty frame that cannot be
evening clothes and some dressier daytime

is
thus
attire,
it
limiting and should be considered only as a choice tor a
second pair of
a solid
glasses.
black-haired
could wear
black frame.
Any of your good metal

very versatile. To make a
frame, say
colors and finishes are fine and
brightly colored trame
coordinate with an
touch of that
least a
woman
red
you must wear at

color somewhere else in your outfit.
outfit,
This makes frames in your colors extremely limiting.
you want
pair
colored frame, you'll need to
of more neutral-framed
own
If
another
glasses.
you might consider frameless glasses. They

expose more of your face and eyes and look good with
Finally,
both dressy and casual clothing.
Evening Wear
Artificial
lighting
makes dressing
for evening
major
challenge.
Fortunately,
type.
The
it's
clear,
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
challenge for a Contrast color
bright colors and strong-contrast outfits
them during the daylight hours also

happen to look good after dark. Very dark colors and
very light colors (except black and white) become "noncolors" when lights are low. They wash out or tade out
so they can't help you look radiant. Utilize your mediumtoned brights for your most vibrant effects.
most enhancing
148
less oi a
to
The night was made

your escort
in
shimmering
for
fabrics.
Bedazzle
such deluxe materials as gold or silver lame
or colored sequined and beaded outfits. Metallic acces-
shoes and an evening bag your

shades coordinate well with many evening
sories
may
in
also
match your clothing, your
best
outfits.
metal
You
or your skin
hair,
tone.
solid black or white dress
color near your face.
may
require an accent
black dress happens to be
If a
low-cut, your bare-skinned shoulders and neck can often
provide the necessary light accent.
worn without
be
Of
course, black can
an accent by most black-haired
women.
Furs
Select
your
furs
from your
best white, off-white, beige,
dark brown, black, and gray. Your rust will look sportier
on you and for that reason may not be a terrific choice

you need a fur that can be worn on formal occasions.
if
There's another consideration: the length of the hair. If
you have Contrast coloring and
are five feet six inches or
over, any length hair
you
fine. If
is
are shorter, consider
short- and medium-haired furs, or try longer-haired furs

that are styled to
Finally, bear in
add height instead of bulk.
mind
that solid-colored furs are
versatile than multicolored furs such as
The
it's
furs,
solid-colored turs look
sporty or dressy,
fabulous as they
good over any
patterned or plain.
may
be, will not
more
raccoon and lynx.

outfit
whether
Multicolored
work over many
semi-formal and formal dresses.
Makeup and Hair
Coloring Advice
Helene Mills, our Color 1 associate and model in the

wrong-right makeup photos (Plates 44 and 45), has counseled a number of Contrast color types Hke herself Many
on her Santa Monica, CaHfornia, doorstep wearing

little or no makeup. Each one of these women has tried
using makeup at one time or another, but they claim they
arrive
looked "painted"
in
it.
Why?
Contrast Coloring
149
After querying
lene found out.
them about their makeup

them were wearing
All ot
colors.
He-
colors that
were too brown or orange in short, too muted for

their natural dark-hght coloring. Helene convinced these
women
that they
wouldn't look "painted"
makeup
fined themselves to
them. Wearing the right
clear
makeup
they'd be showcasing the
and,
colors, they'd
at
look
the
and skin tones.
hair color
they con-
same time,
extreme contrast between their
they're supposed to look
like
if
colors chosen specifically for
Contrast color type can wear more
makeup without
looking overly made-up than most of the other color

types. Because the
coloring of
more of it
in
makeup
woman
is
being applied to the stronger
with Contrast coloring,
it
takes
order for her to look like she's wearing any
Indeed, a Contrast color type's strong visual ap-
at all.
pearance
is
most enhanced when it is set ott with

colors, mostly iti medium to dark values.
clear,
makeup
brighter
Makeup
Colors
We've explained that muted, toned-down makeup clarthat is. makeup with a lot of brown pigment in
ities
it
are not for you. Neither are pale colors. With your
Contrast coloring, you need the strength that only medium to dark clear, bright makeup colors can provide.
Here are some specific pointers about appropriate foun-
dation, hpstick, blush, nail pohsh, eye
shadow, eye
liner,
and mascara colors:

Foundation.
Contrast color type has either ivory
skin (see Plates 12 and 16) with httle or no pink or golden
tones in
it.
olive skin (see Plate 4), or
Contrast coloring
clear
and
woman
light,
in the case
medium, or dark
of black
skin that
is
from almost all pink or golden tones (see

But no matter what the skin color, the base a
free
Plate 20).
skiti
with Contrast coloring wears should match the

Nothing but disaster ensues
tone on her neck exactly.
when
woman
tries to
change her complexion by wear-
ing an offsetting color in her foundation.
One
client
who
instinctively
clothing colors to suit
'
COLOR WOSDERFUL
the right clear, bright
makeup. The result was jarring. She tended

toward verv toned-down, brownish colors in her cheek
tered her
150
wore
her Contrast coloring had not mas-
and
lip colors.
wearing
Her foundation color was even worse. By

was trying to transform
rose-beige base, she
her lovely olive complexion to
rosy beige.
What this client failed to consider was her total look.

Your makeup colors have to match the clear, bright clarof your wardrobe colors. Otherwise, you'll look out
of sync w4th yourself If you've got an olive complexion,
don't try to deny it by hiding it under the wrong makeup
ity
base.
unfortunate that the majority of
It's
come
the stores
in
makeup
bases in
colors that are too pink, rosy, and
peach for Contrast color types with their ivory and olive
Thus, you'll have to shop carefully, and even then
skin.
you may have to mix two bases together to achieve the

precise shade you require.
Blush. Blush should give you a healthy glow, as if you
just got finished walking briskly
look
this
way
if
you
stick
around the block. You'll
with blush
in
your best red
plum shades.
you resort to
color, raspberry, fuchsia, and the vibrant
You
will twt look natural
rouge
in coral or
Jennifer
Ho
brown
and glowing
shades.
Two
wearing her red color blush
Helene Mills wearing her plum blush

Lipstick.
stick
and
if
good examples
Your strong Contrast
nail polishes in
in
in Plate 45.
coloring
your best
are
Plate 37 and
demands
clear shades
lip-
of red,
and vibrant plum.

Another option: By all means try combining your best
lipstick and polish shades. Your best red, red-orange (that
is, coral), or red-purple shades (raspberry, fuchsia, and
plum) can be worn alone or mixed to create a new hybrid
coral, raspberry, fuchsia,
Be adventurous!
Eye Shadow. Eye makeup
color.
be
for Contrast color types can
strong and dramatic as you wish.
as
On
the other
hand,
some women with Contrast
more
natural look. That's fine, too, as long as they don't
coloring prefer a softer,
end up with a washed-out instead of a subtle look (the

problem in Plates 36 and 44). It's a matter of personal
preference, how a woman is dressed, and where she is
going.
All your best colors can be used for eye shadows,
you are trying to achieve. Some

your best blue, blue-green, green,
at least one shade of purple, a creamy off-white for a
highlighter, gray, and brown, if you like it. You may
depending on the
good
effect
starter shades are
Contrast Coloring
151
want both lighter and niediuni-dark tones

you can create many ditterent looks.
ot the colors so
For everyday business wear, eye shadow^s in your neutrals
or those shades that pick up the colors ot your eyes
You
are basic.
will find that
also very basic in that they
your purple eye shadows are

work well with all ot your
most enhancing colors and they complmient every eye

color.
Your eye shadows*
clarity must be clear or ever so

toned-down, never muddy, grayed, or mutedlooking. The only women excepted from this stricture
are those with Contrast/Muted coloring. Their eye shadows will be more toned-down because the colors on their
slightly
charts are
more toned-down
than those ot
a straight
Cami-
trast color type.
As
Contrast color type, vou can also wear intense
colors on your eyes
it'
you want
to underscore a certain
high fashion look.
less
conservative look
is
created
when you
repeat the
colors of your clothing in your eye shadows.

Mills has
done
this in Plate 45.
shadows duplicate
Helene
Helene's blue and
the shades in her outtu. Notice
this duplication tends to
make you look
in
plum
how
her eyes betore
you notice anything else about her. That's as it should be.

Eyeliner and Mascara. You are enhanced by black
mascara
as well as the
other dark shades ot'navy and dark
brown.
Eyeliners in
Your eye
liner
all
ot
may
your best colors can be

or
may
not have to be
ettective.
smudged
to
pronounced effect of the line. It depends on

the look vou want to achieve.
Darker vs. Lighter Color Values. Should you wish to
create a less made-up look, we suggest lightening your
best shades of lipstick and eye shadow. Substitute medium
to medium-light clear colors for your regular medium to
dark colors. But keep in mind that your lightest lip coldiftuse the
ors, in particular, are strictly tor casual wear. Lipsticks in
your medium tones give a tlnished and conservative look.

Of course, Contrast/Muted color types are always going
to be
making up
slightly
their taces in colors
that are ever so
toned-down. But Contrast/Muted coloring can

same intensity ot" dark, medium, and light
sustain the
values as the other Contrast color types.

152
COLOR IVOXDERFl'L
All Contrast color types can use hghter eye
shadows
as
highlighters to achieve
or create
a special effect
a certain
eye shape.
Blush can be purchased
in
medium
or dark shades. Just
vary the amount you apply depending on the occasion or

the effect
At
out
you
night,
are trying to achieve.
woman with Contrast coloring can pull

When hghts are low, she can wear
the stops.
all
makeup in the clearest, most intense shades imagEye makeup especially can be emphasized.
stronger
inable.
Coordinating Your
Makeup and
Clothing Colors
is the fun part

deciding which makeup colors to
wear with which outfits. Only many women don't see it
that way. Usually, it's because they're confused about
This
what's permissible.
If
you
still
find this process disconcerting rather than
fun, we're about to change
all
that,
for we're
going to
give you several examples that will enlighten you about
how makeup
color decisions are made. We'll describe an
and then suggest possible makeup colors that will

enhance the overall look:
outfit
You have on
a pair
striped pattern
and
of slacks with
white blouse. For jewelry, you've
selected a silver bracelet and earrings.

are mostly red
red
black and white
shoes and
a belt,
Your
accessories
either a red or
black purse, and sheer white hose.
What should you do about your makeup?

makeup, two of your many options are
either to go for a more neutral look, on the one extreme,
In terms of eye
or a strong eye effect on the other.
With
this
ensemble, the neutral eye look
with eye shadows of white or off-white,
is
achieved
as a highlighter
and light and dark gray as your main shadow colors.

Wear a dark gray or black eyeliner and black mascara.
The strong eye effect is achieved with purple eye shadows
a good basic color
the same hght highUghters, and black
mascara. This time, use both purple and black eyeliner.
On
that
your
lips,
cheeks, and nails
we
suggest
matches the red of your accessories.
red shade
Cotitrast Coloring
153
Picture yourself wearing a yellow jumpsuit with a printed
Your
design of blue, purple, red, and white.
At the
are shiny gold.
your
On
colorful outfit cries out for an equally carefree

in
To do
your eye makeup.
eye shadows of purple and blue and
select
earrings
blue belt.
blue purse.
and colorful feeling

of
you don
you've got blue shoes with nude stockings,
feet,
and you carry
Your
waist,
white, and/or light yellow.
soft
that,
highlighter
Use purple and/or
blue eyeliner and black mascara.
The
red in the jumpsuit affords you the opportunity to
match
it
Business
with
your
in
is
lipstick, blush,
and
nail polish.
on your mind. You're wearing
white blouse. Your accessories are
navy
suit
and navy shoes
necklace, sheer skin-toned stockings,
and
a lapis lazuli
a purse.
With conservative business attire such as this, you want

your makeup to be strong enough to give your features
definition, but not so strong that
it
calls
attention to
itself.
Thus, you would choose eye shadows of dark blue and

gray and
a highlighter
of off-white or
light beige.
You
navy eyeliner and black or dark navy mascara. (No bright navy mascara for business looks.)
To adorn your lips and cheeks you could wear a clear
medium red or raspberry shade. If you select coral, though,
remember that you can only wear it on your lips and as
nail polish, never as blush unless you put just a touch of
the coral on your cheeks and then blend it with your red
blush. For blush with this business look stay with your
red or raspberry shades. For nail polish, either match
could use
your
lip
color or remain with
neutral or "see-through"
polish.
This time you are dressed in an off-white

brant
medium
blue blouse, and
vibrant
skirt,
a vi-
medium
green
These three separates are pulled together visually

scarf of off-white, green, blue, and fuchsia. Your
jacket.
by
hosiery, shoes, and purse are off-white.
This ensemble mandates that you match

154
'
COLOR IVONDERFUL
your makeup. Your eye shadows could be
its
colors in
combination
of blues and greens, or one or the other exclusively.
Your
highlighter will be off-white or light beige. Line
your eyes with
And
green and/or blue eyeliner.
brush
your lashes with black mascara.

The fuchsia in your neck scarf is the perfect color
repeat in your lipstick, blush, and nail polish.
to
Hair Coloring
You
will lose part
appearance
dark hair
is
if
is a
of your uniqueness and your contrast
you highlight or streak your hair. Your

vital component of the dark-light look that
so characteristic of your natural coloring.
Women
with Contrast coloring
back to
its
who
unhappy that
their hair is in the process of graying or whose hair is
inadvertently being lightened by the chemicals used for
permanents may want to reverse frost their hair to bring
it
your
natural deeper shade.
Chapter
cess in
We
that
describe the pro-
you're sure you don't want to keep
same
hair darker-looking and, at the
eliminate that
one
If
4.
are
medium
graying stage, try
time,
a
would be enhancing with your
want
to
blond shade,
skin tone.
We
suggest matching the beiges and the camel shades on your

chart
usually
blond
champagne, honey, and wheat shades of
as light or
dark as you
Just
like.
make
sure
you
get the shade right!
Contrast color types whose hair
is
salt-and-pepper or
completely gray or white look striking and often prefer to
do nothing
a
to their hair (as in Plate 16). Obviously, this
is
matter of personal preference.
One
final
word of
advice:
Women
hair should not put bluish rinses
endeavor
to
on
keep their hair shade
as possible. If
with gray or white
their hair, but
as
white and sparkling
you're going to use any rinse, use one that
creates a clear, brighter gray or white tone, not
adds even
a hint
Your Contrast
know how
levels
should
of brown, blue, or yellow

coloring
is
truly unique,
one
your
to
hair.
and you
of contrast to help you look
terrific in
that
now
and
your cloth-
ing and makeup.
You
you can apply
of your new color knowledge and learn
how
to cast
all
are ready to begin Part
your most bewitching color
spell!
III,
where
Contrast Coloring
155
Part III
Cast a Color Spell
Chapter 9
Color Chic
Over
the years,
we've noticed
that
our color concept
tends to change people's outlook for the better in three
major ways:
Knowing
her
wearing more
a
own
colors.
"blue person" or
Also,
most
colors,
woman
is
braver about
She stops thinking of herself merely

a
women
"gray person" or
find they
as
"beige person."
end up owning fewer
clothes
hut wearing everything and enjoying them more. In addition,
they're more adventurous
To
help
blocks,
It's a
women
we
in the
way
they combine colors.
think of colors as wardrobe building
developed the "capsule wardrobe concept."
system that helps solve the perennial mix-and-match
quandary so many women find themselves in. And it is

the core of a balanced wardrobe. Instituted by Color 1
in 1978, this concept works so well it has been imitated
by department stores, fashion writers, and other image
consultants.
Dependmg on your
will be built
with
life
classic,
style,
your capsule wardrobe
high fashion, casual, or some
other type of clothing. These clothes won't be the only
ones you own, of course, but they will form the foundation
fun,
upon which you build the most unique, enhancing,

and workable wardrobe you've ever had.
Color Chic
159
Our
capsule wardrobe formula enables
maximum
mileage out of
you
to get the
minimum number of clothing
The concept we've designed for the working woman,

you have only two suits, five
blouses, and two neck accessories. That's all. And here's
items.
for example, requires that
amazing part: Utihzing these nine items to their fullest,

you can create thirty distinctive outfits twenty suit looks
the
and ten more looks without
a jacket.
The capsule wardrobe concept

woman, but it is especially helpful
or who
women who
lot
have limited budgets.

have another goal
robes, to create order
chaos. "Chaotic"
the average
Color
is
is,
godsend
for those
It's
also
any
for
who
travel a
useful
to streamline their
for
ward-
where once there was nothing but
in fact, the best adjective to describe
woman's wardrobe before she introduces some
organization into her
The Color
lite.
Capsule Wardrobe
Concept
One woman became
so adept at implementing our capworking wardrobe system that one of her professional colleagues asked, "Did you inherit a lot of money
sule
or something?
You have
so
many new
outfits!"
done was select a few new items of clothing

to give her existing wardrobe more balance. The pieces
she chose helped her to better coordinate the garments
she already owned. And that's the only thing that was
All she had
woman's wardrobe.
Many women bemoan the fact that suits are so expensive. They claim they can't afford them. Meanwhile, they
have a closet crammed with dresses and separates blouses,
different about this
skirts, jackets, sweaters,
and slacks
most of which don't
coordinate with each other.
You can approach your wardrobe overhaul modestly.

You might, for example, start with one solid-color suit,
giving yourself your
first
jacket to
mix and match with
Then
few new
other items in your closet.
select a
scarves containing your best colors as well as

160
COLOR WONDERFUL
print
some of the
not-so-great colors you already have in your wardrobe.
With the minimal addition of a few items, you can

give your old wardrobe a whole new lease on life. Suddenly, you can have a number of sharp, classy outfits to
wear. And by continuing to experiment and combine the
old as well as new items in your closet, you can eventually put together several more dynamite outfits.
This brings up an important point.
Unless your pre-color chart color choices are totally
awry which is seldom the case you won't need to discard the contents of your closet and start afresh. Needless
to say, that would be an incredibly expensive endeavor.
Fortunately, there arc certain "tricks" you can employ to
make an item of clothing in an okay color look pretty
terrific
and
make
to
a terrible
okay. In Chapter
1 1
few choice pieces
to
life
we
will
color look,
at
the very least,
you how, by adding
tell
your wardrobe, you can extend the
of garments that
may
optimum
not be the
color for
you.
However,
now
for
let
us assume
you
your capsule working wardrobe from
are assembling
scratch. Naturally,
this is the ideal situation.
No
matter what your color type, these are six funda-
mental rules to follow and
in the
order we're presenting
them:
For
Color
the
Rule No.
1:
Capsule Working Wardrobe:
Purchase two solid-colored
that can be interchanged to
of
suits,
two
make
suits in colors
four suit looks. In lieu
you can buy any four solid-colored pieces

two skirts or slacks, or one of each that
jackets,
interchange to
Whether you
make
four suit looks.
select a skirted suit, a trouser suit, or
one
of each depends entirely on your preference. Take into

consideration your occupation, your
is
deemed appropriate
dress
life-style,
among your
and what
professional and
social peers.
Suits are easier to
But
in
work with
if
they are sohd colors.
choosing those solid colors, bear
the suit pieces are

best level
worn
of contrast.
together, they
in
mind
must always
that
when
create yoitr
Color Chic
161
In a
more conservative
both be neutrals.
your work or
in a color
Here
life
make
capsule, the
If suits
in
style,
one
two
would
suits
colors are appropriate for
and one
suit in a neutral
nice option.
examples of two solid
are several
suit colors that
coordinate well: navy and camel, red and black, gray and
plum and navy, blue and
beige, blue-green and

navy and gray, off-white and red.
You can also make one of your suit choices a tweed
provided it works well with several solid colors.
Suit pieces in tweeds, patterns, and plaids are a possibility, but they make the mixing and matching of your
capsule wardrobe pieces much more complicated. With
patterned and plaid jackets, skirts, and pants in your
capsule wardrobe, you must Hmit yourself to solid-colored
blouses and tops in the colors that exist in the tweed
camel,
purple,
pattern or plaid.
Granted, there are ways to
tie
an
in
"outside" color, just as there are ways to mix patterns.
But you must have a trained eye for color as well as a

good sense of scale in order to pull it off.
Your capsule working wardrobe will last several seasons only if you choose suit pieces that are classic in style.
Thus, you should avoid highly styHzed jackets, very narrow or very wide lapels, very full skirts, slit skirts, or
very wide-legged or very skinny-legged slacks. In short,
avoid
this season's fad.
There
is
compromise
than classic
suit in a less
possibly
two
seasons'
a classic style,
the jackets
style,
You might
knowing
select
it
must be interchangeable; the

style
of the
suit in
Remem-
to last several years.
must look great with the
one
you'll get one,
wear out of it, and the other
expecting
ber, the suit pieces
position.
style
skirts
of
and
slacks.
do we recommend?
Depending on the climate in your region, you may
need both a winter and a summer capsule. For women
living in most parts of North America and Europe, we
suggest suit fabrics of lightweight wool gabardine, wool
crepe, or other lightweight wool blends that have the
look of gabardine. These fabrics will work for most of
you in all but the hottest months of the year.
If your climate is strictly warm going on hot, linen and
silk, or blends of these with cotton and other fibers, are
your best bet. But hot or cold, always choose suits in
What
162
COLOR WONDERFUL
suit fabrics
natural fibers such as wool,
silk,
cotton, and linen
of natural and
fabrics that are a blend
manmade
or
fibers.
Because you will be interchanging your suit pieces, the

fabrics need to be alike or compatible. This is a matter of
weight and texture as well as fiber. All different weights

and textures of wools can be combined: \Vool flannel with
wool crepe; wool gabardine with wool tweed, etc. In
combining wool and silk, you must consider both weave
hghtweight wool gabardine

or wool crepe jacket can be worn over a silk garment, but
heavier wools \vi\\ not work. Silk and linen can be comand w'eight. For instance,
bined,
can linen and cotton,
as
and
dressiest cottons
Rule No.
well as the finest,
silk.
Acquire two neck accessories
2:
or necklaces
as
scarves and/
that match the color of your skirt and/or slacks.
These neck accessories should, most
often, be solid in
and they must create the impression
color,
that
you
are
repeating the skirt or slack color near your face.
Rule No.
tary
your
all
to
Your
3:
man-tailored
five tops
or sweater tops.
choices according to
your wardrobe
Your
in colors
complimen-
These tops can be blouses,
suit pieces.
shirts,
must be
how
Make your
style
formal or casual you want
to be.
tops can be plain or patterned. But
if a
top
is
must contain the colors of your suit pieces. To

make certain the patterned top has enough of your suit
colors in it to look well coordinated, study the combina-
print,
tion
it
from
colors
are
distance of five feet or more. If your suit
still
apparent in the top,
it
is
an excellent
addition to your capsule.
Blouse fabric can be
cotton, linen, or blends of
silk,
any natural and manmade
fibers.
Tops made of 100 percent

option
today
silk.
if
they look like
many
We
synthetic fibers are only an
natural fabric.
polyester blouses are an excellent imitation o(
must warn you, though,
thetic tops don't "breathe" the
For
this
climates.
For instance,
that 100 percent syn-
way
natural fabrics do.
reason alone, they are a poor choice for
warm
Color Chic
163
When
choosing appropriate tops, style
You've
consideration.
your tops
if
one of your
is
the one final
suit pieces first.
compliment
in styles that
other words,
your
selected
your
all
suit jackets
Choose
suit pieces.
is
In
very dressy-
looking, don't include in your capsule wardrobe
a strictly
Other tops to avoid

very wide collars, and a
casual plaid blouse or casual sweater.

are blouses with very lull sleeves,
super-abundance of
Rule No.
two
4:
It
the
ruffles.
two
wearing are
in
camel jacket
is
neck accessory
are
a navy skirt and

mixed suit look
this
the color of the skirt
in
you
ditterent colors
one example ot
suit pieces
necessary to balance the
is
outfit.
the
to the top (your
whole
the
On
a navy scarf or navy bead necklace

bottom color (skirt or pants color) up
our example,
In
would bring
neck
area), affording a visual balance to
outfit.
the other hand, a traditional solid-colored suit look
where both
same
the jacket and skirt or pants are the
color does not require a neck accessory to create balance.
The
suit itself
is
balanced because the same color appears
both on the bottom and top half of your body.
matched
you're wearing
bottom color
optional as long as
is
suit,
neck accessory
When
in the
you keep your jacket
on.
Rule No.
5: In
choosing shoe,
belt,
and purse colors for
your capsule working wardrobe, you have several options:
Match them
either to
your
suit colors,
your hair
your skin tones. Generally you will want to

use medium- and dark-toned shoes with medium- and
colors, or
dark-toned
suits;
Hght-,
with medium-toned
shoes with light-toned
Rule No.
6:
one
skirt or pair
accessory
(in
this in
COLOR WOXDERFUL
to
add clothing items to
the color of the
more
new
skirt or slacks),
you
looks. Obviously, the ad-
must coordinate with the existing capsule pieces

make a total of fiftv-four outfits. But even if the new
ditions
to
mind: With the addition of
of slacks, one blouse, and one neck
can create twenty-four
164
and medium- or light-toned
suits.
When you want
your capsule, keep

just
medium-, or dark-toned shoes
suits;
pieces only coordinate with half of your existing cap-
you've
sule,
still
been incredibly
efficient at
wardrobe
building.
To
help you visualize the rules we've just laid out.
we've compiled three suggested capsule working wardrobes

for each of our color types in the charts below. Since you
can combine nearly
all
of your best colors, these more
conservative color combinations are merely to teach you
Depending on your
the process of creating a capsule.
needs,
you may
prefer less conservative suit colors.
Capsule Wardrobes for Muted Color Types

#2
Suggestion #1
Suggestion
2 Suits
2 Suits
Rust jacket and skirt

Beige jacket and skirt
Brown jacket and
Camel
Tops
Suggestion
2 Suits
Gray jacket and skirt

Green jacket and skirt
pants
jacket and skirt
Tops
Purple blouse
Gray blouse
Peach, rust, and beige
Beige blouse
Yellow blouse
Green and Gray patterned
blouse
print blouse
Neck Accessories
Brown beads or scarf
Neck Accessories
Rust beads or scarf
Beige scarf or beads
Camel
Gray beads or scarf

Green scarf or beads
scarf or beads
Shoes
Shoes
Brown and camel
Shoes
Grav and
beige color mentioned in this chart should always match or be
or, in the case
of
light-haired
Muted
Neck Accessories
Beige and rust

The
Tops
Pink blouse
Gray blouse
Beige blouse
Red blouse
Coral blouse
Blue-green blouse
Purple blouse
Blue blouse
Green blouse
#3
a lighter
color type, your hair color. If you are
match your main hair color: if you arc light-haired, it will be

mentioned must be in vour best shades and clarities ot colors.
hair color
or darker version ot your skin tone

a
brunette, the
brown
color should
darker value of your hair color. All the colors
Capsule Wardrobes for Gentle Color Types

Suggestion
#1
Suggestion
#2
Suggestion
2 Suits
2 Suits
Navy jacket and skirt

Medium gray jacket and
Beige jacket and pants
Camel
2 Suits
jacket and
medium
Red jacket and
skirt
Off-white jacket and
skirt
blue skirt
skirt
#J
Tops
Light gray blouse

Soft coral blouse
Beige, navy, and gray

print blouse
Green blouse
Purple blouse
Neck Accessories
Navy beads or scarf
Medium gray scarf or
Tops
Pink blouse
Yellow blouse
Brown blouse
Blue, beige, and camel
print blouse
Off-white blouse
beads
Neck
Accessories
Tops
Pink
(i.e.
a lighter
shade of
the suit's red) blouse
Blue blouse
Purple blouse
Light gray blouse
Blue-green blouse
2
Neck
Accessories
Beige beads or scarf
Red beads or
Blue scarf or beads (match
Off-white scarf or beads
scarf
skirt color)
Shoes
Navy and
gray
Shoes
Shoes
Beige, camel, or vour main
Beige or off-white and red
hair color
The
beige color mentioned
hair color.
in
vour best shades and
166
in
this chart
The camel should match

clarities
either
of colors.
COLOR IVOXDERFL'L
should match or be
lighter or darker version
of your skin tone or
your skin tone or your hair color. All of the colors mentioned must be
Capsule Wardrobes for Light-Bright Color Types

Suggestion
#1
Suggestion
#2
Suggestion
2 Suits
2 Suits
Light camel jacket and skirt
Medium-toned blue
Navy jacket and
and pants
Beige jacket and
skirt
#J
2 Suits
Off-vvhite jacket and skirt
jacket
Light red jacket and skirt

light
gray
skirt
Tops
Tops
Tops
Light coral blouse
Light yellow blouse
Light gray blouse
Light green blouse
Light raspberry blouse
Light blue blouse
Light gray blouse
Light coral blouse
Off-white blouse
Blue-beige-gray patterned
Light yellow blouse

Off-white and
Light purple blouse
red print blouse
blouse
White blouse
Light purple blouse
Neck Accessories
Blue beads or scarf
Neck Accessories
Navy beads or scarf
Camel
Grav scarf or beads
Neck Accessories
Off-white beads or scarf
Light red scarf or beads
Shoes
Camel and gray
Off-white or light beige and
scarf or beads
Shoes
Navy and camel
Shoes
red
The
beige color mentioned in this chart should match or be lighter or darker version oi your skin tone or, in the
case of light-haired Light-Bright color types,
your hair
color.
The camel
or hair color. All colors mentioned must be in vour best shades and
color should match either your skin tone
clarities
of colors.
Color Chic
167
Capsule Wardrobes
for
Suggestion #/
#2
Suggestion
2 Suits
Beige jacket and

Navy jacket and
Contrast Color Types
skirt
skirt
Suggestion
#i
2 Suits
2 Suits
Off-white jacket and skirt

Brown jacket and blue-green
Black jacket and skirt
Red
jacket
and
skirt
pants
Tops
Medium coral blouse
Navy and beige patterned
Tops
purple blouse
Emerald green blouse

Beige blouse with navy and
Tops
Red blouse
White blouse
Medium
Red blouse
purple blouse
Medium
Off-white blouse
blouse
Medium
Off-white,
brown and
blue-green blouse
Light gray blouse
blue-green print blouse

Rust blouse
Medium
blue blouse
red pinstripe
Neck Accessories
Beige beads or scarf
Navy scarf or beads
Shoes
Neck
Accessories
Black beads or scarf
Off-white scarf or beads
Red
beige
Brown and
scarf or beads
Shoes
Shoes
Navy and
Neck Accessories
Blue-green beads or scarf
off-white (only
Black and red
wear off-white shoes when

wearing either the offwhite jacket or
The beige
color mentioned in this chart should nutch or be
a brunette, the
clarities
168
brown should match your
of colors.
COLOR IVOS'DERFUL
skirt)
a lighter
hair color. All the colors
or darker version of your skin tone.
mentioned must be
in
It
you're
your best shades and
Perhaps the most exciting thing about your capsule
is
by utihzing your best shades and clarities of colors

combined in your best levels of contrast, you have built a
wardrobe that is uniquely enhancing to youl
that,
Alice
Alice
A Case Study
She
of help
wôman with olive skin, a Contrast color

good example because she wanted a lot
putting together her ideal capsule working
petite
is a
type.
is
in
wardrobe.
Alice
is
a real estate
agent
who
important that she look her best
also sells cosmetics.

at all
It is
times because both
of her occupations are concerned with image.

Alice began to transform her look by changing the
color of her hair, getting
dark
brown
closer to
it
its
original,
very
color.
To eliminate the gray, Alice had been coloring her hair

medium brown. The color was the wrong shade for her
olive complexion. She

flattering
black-brown
changed
color.
It
it
to a different shade, a
looked
terrific!
The darker
shade did not make Alice look hard or give her hair an
artificial
appearance because
shade for
woman
it
was
very natural-looking
with her coloring.
Next, AHce had to change some of her other wrong-
headed notions. For years, she had been wearing small

prints
and accessories and avoiding strong contrast out-
Why? Because she was petite and all the wardrobe

books and magazine articles she read told her to. (Plate 36
illustrates this problem clearly.)
But using the Color 1 concept Alice learned she needed
to do just the opposite. As a Contrast color type, Alice
needs to wear clear colors and medium- to large-scale
patterns and jewelry in order to look her best. In addition, she should wear strong and medium contrast color
fits.
combinations.
Because Alice
felt
that all-one-color looks
made
her
and slimmer, she learned to create her necessary level of contrast on the top half of her body near her
face. How? By combining a matching dark jacket and
skirt with a light or bright blouse rather than by combinappear
taller
Color Chic
169
ing a dark jacket and light
skirt,
wear her all-one-color looks in

bright colors. Plate 37 shows anotl
contrast near the
t'ace.
Alice can wear a contrasting
ja(
the garments are styled right
(1) if
illusion she seeks;
with
and
if
(2)
she
matching-colored blouse
jacket.
the
In
Alice
case,
latter
contrasting-colored jacket open
at
matched bottom and top color to

Then Alice wondered what to
jewelry she owned. She learned
chains, bracelets,
and rings togetl
visual accent. Alice did
go out an
large shiny metal neck accessory as
however.
helped her
It
set
her coi
tion for the tuture.
Creating
a capsule
work wardro
challenging. Alice had recently pi
One was off-white and the oth(

what she now did about contrast h
how
to
choose five tops that mat(
created the right level of contrast
light-colored blouses in order to

trast
with the rust
suit,
light-on-light look
By
then those
when worn
following the Color
wi
rules
medium values
good medium levels of cc
tops that were

create
Ahce could
colors if
wear light or
she added the necessarv
also
The Color
Millions of
Capsule Coat Wardrobe
women
have had the experience. They get
dressed up in an exciting outfit, their escort
with the
effect,
The
pens.
but just
coat these
Suddenly
all
that
look
to
it
hap-
wear because
outfit in any way.
are forced to
relate to their
effort
enchanted
they prepare to leave
as
women
of the weather doesn't
is
seems ruined.
terrific
How
do these women feel? Probably not terrific.

Many women are confused about coats how many to
own in which colors and styles to cover all occasions and
seasons. Fortunately, there
The
and suggested
fied colors
with an active business
is
capsule coat wardrobe
way
out of
this
dilemma.
calls for three coats in speci-
styles.
It is
designed for
as well as social life
who
women
live in
climates that have four seasons.
There
are three rules for putting together a capsule coat
wardrobe:
Rule No.
and foremost, you need
1: First
lightweight all-weather coat.
You must
a raincoat
or
select this coat
with the idea that it will be worn with daytime attire

well as with nonformal but dressy evening attire.
Since this coat will be
should be
color
whose
where
in
style
is
as
your wardrobe, it
That means a coat in a solid
staple in
as basic as possible.
between.
neither too casual nor too formal but some-
You must
looking buttons, or
a coat
avoid any coat that has sportywith sporty stitching, including
stitching in a color that contrasts with the coat fabric, or a
coat with tabs, epaulets, or large pockets, particularly flap
polished cotton,
Also take
look
synthetic blends.
or
silk,
lightweight leather or suede.
some of
at
Many
the
are quite
new
requirements for the all-purpose coat
By
coat
means consider
all
with
we
fulfill
the
are describing.
the purchase of an all-weather
zip-out lining provided
natural fiber and
handsome and
meets the other
it
we've given you. These coats are
a godsend in
summers. Just
make sure the lining is as plain as possible. Wild plaids,
checks, stripes, or printed linings won't do because they
signal that the coat is for casual wear only. Some dressy-
criteria
climates with very cold winters and hot
looking reversible coats are also options.

very important in any coat that you may wear
heavy sweater, blazer/jacket, or suit. In fact, we
suggest you wear a suit on your shopping expedition so
Fit
over
is
you can
try the coat
on over
it.
Make
sure the coat sleeves
and chest area are ample enough to accommodate the

extra bulk of your suit jacket or a sweater.
women
you how many

forget this one
can't
tell
follow our advice to the letter but
requirement.
vital
We
They end up with a

body when they
coat so tight around the top half ot their
wear
over
it
wearing
that
suit
they could swear they were
a straightjacket instead
of
all-weather
a versatile
coat.
Finally,
make
sure the coat
is
long enough to cover the
longest street-length dress or skirt
length coat
is
you own.
fashions dictate shorter
hem
self a
you shorten them,
new
coat
mid-calf-
lengths, our advice
shorten your coat. Coats are intended to

sons. If
an excellent choice. Should the fads and
when
the
always do eventually.
you'll only
hem
It is
last
is
not to
many
sea-
have to buy your-
lengths drop again
far better to
wear
longer than your skirt than one that's even
as
they
a coat that's
a
smidgeon
too short.
Rule No.
2:
The second
be a woollen one.
It's
coat in your
to be
wardrobe should
worn when
it's
too cool for
a raincoat.
Your wool
In fact,
coats
all
coat's style
should he
COLOR WOS'DERFUL
and the
color solid.
of the pros and cons concerning rain/all-weather
including our suggestions about colorapply
One of our recommended

172
classic,
styles
is a
coat with the self-fabric belt because
it
classic
here.
wrap-style
goes with every-
thing with the exception of
recommended
formal evening dress. Other
are dressy-looking buttoned
styles
coats
with matching-colored buttons. Most double-breasted coat
wear over dressy evening
styles are too sporty-looking to

attire.
Even with wool

consideration. After
coats,
all.
remains an important
fabric
wool comes
in a
myriad of weights
and textures. Definitely avoid sporty-looking wools

tweeds and herringbones. Instead,
proximating
cashmere or
a
a
like
something apsmooth, fine-textured wool, or maybe a

select
mohair.
3: Your third multipurpose outerwear garment should be a jacket. .4 jacket made of fur, velvet,
Rule No.
satin, silk,
or a dressy wool such as
mohair or crepe
are
your best choices.
you
wear over long and

short formal and semiformal evening attire, its style and
fabric must be dressy. Depending on the jacket material
and current tashion, your jacket might even work over
Since this jacket
suits, jeans,
is
the coat
will
or slacks.
Again, opt for
a solid
color
a beige,
white, off-white,
one of the dark neutrals on Your Color 1 Color Chart, or

your predominant hair color. If you are purchasing a fur
jacket,
you should keep
in
mind
are dressier than multicolored furs.

are
the white or light beige
off-white, black
(if it's
on your
that solid-colored furs
Good
fur jacket colors
on your color chart, an

chart), or your exact hair
color.
For more information on furs and the length of hairs
on the subject in
wardrobe chapter devoted to your color type.
The length and fit of your jacket is crucial.
Your jacket should skim or hug the hip area. The
jacket length that works best for most body types is one
that stops halfway between the lower part of your buttocks and waist
mid-hip in other words. This is inches
above the fullest part of your hips. A jacket this length
gives a longer-legged look. In addition, it augments and
enhances the lines of a variety of different skirt and dress
lengths, even floor-length gowns.
Some of you will find that a jacket worn with a fairly
short skirt can create a balance problem unless you are
that are best for you, consult the section
the
Color Chic
173
wearing boots or opaque or textured stockings, which

add weight to the lower half of your body. With shorter
check the balance carefully
skirts,
in a full-length mirror.
you look top-heavy, add visual weight to your bottom

half or wear a lighter-looking jacket or a coat.
We are not precluding somewhat longer-length jackets
If
for taller
women.
In a visual sense, just be careful not to
cut yourself in half Mid-calf-length furs are not as appropriate
and don't look
as
balanced as
jacket
when worn
over floor-length evening wear. Jackets shorter than midhip length can be worn,
but be careful.
Most have
tendency to look boxy.
The Color
Capsule Casual
Wardrobe
The
capsule wardrobe concept is adaptable to any type of

wardrobe to suit any life-style. For example, the same
capsule wardrobe formula 2 + 2 + 5 = 30 applies equally
well to a casual wardrobe.
casual capsule
2 jackets
The
principles are the same.
wardrobe might include:
tweed blazer and
solid-colored sweater
jacket
corduroy, denim,
blouses and sweaters
2 {jants/skirts
5 tops
Two
wool,
etc.
neck accessories, scarves or strands of beads
in the
color of the skirt/slacks, will add the necessary finishing
touch and balance to the
minimum
of thirty different
you can create with these nine items of clothing. If

you add one more bottom, one more top, and one more
outfits
accessory
(in
the color of the bottom), believe
they actually enable you to create twenty-four

fits
174
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
beyond the
thirty
you've already got!
it
or not,
more out-
Chapter 10
Color Charisma
Red
stimulating. Bright yellow
is
How many
is
cheery. Blue
is
cool.
times have you heard people say these
things? Such notions are so widespread they've
become
cliches.
But
color
cliche
a
is
or not.
mood
it's
certainly accurate to say that
inducer. Psychologists have been study-
ing this aspect of color for years. They've discovered that

different colors can have a profound, physiological
pact
on people,
to the point
where they even
affect
impeo-
ple's behavior.
The
fact,
effect
it's
generated by colors
that
often subliminal. In
generally so subliminal that, in
person neither comprehends nor

ing
is
he or she
is
realizes
most
cases,
under the influence of such
seemingly innocuous intangible
what's happena
as color.
Without going into detail about the clinical discoveries

made by color researchers, we want to acquaint you with
some of the desirable effects you can create on others by
the judicious use of color. We wdll teach you to think of
color as a psychological weapon to use in your quest to
achieve your career or personal objectives. After all, when
you wear a certain color, either alone or coordinated with
Color Charisma
175
other colors in unusual and exciting ways, you are

ing
statement.
that statement
Color
we
Before
on others,
We
and
want
make
sure
mak-
you understand
ramifications.
all its
Great Self-Motivator
the
about the
talk
to
effect
let's talk a little
your clothing colors have
about the positive effect they
can have on you.
Face
reason
The
much
wt say
colors
it:
least as
please you,
be kind to yourself Dress in colors that
first
you
yourselt,
you wear affect your own mood at

do that of the observer. For this
as they
and foremost, and. while you are pleasing

you've selected.
self to others in the colors

It is a
of your-
will present a very pleasing vision
truism that
when
woman
morning and likes what she

feels more confident and exudes
the
looks in the mirror in
sees she automatically

that confidence in her
behavior throughout the day.
One of our associates advises her clients to get up in the

morning and ask themselves what color they want near
their face that day. That means choosing a blouse, sweater,
necklace, or scart
rest
of their outfit
good
Once
first.
falls
her clients decide that, the
into place. She says her clients feel
day because they started out by focusing on the
all
area of the
body
that's
most
crucial to
all
of us
in
our
everyday dealings.
Color
Every
Its
woman
Impact on Others
has goals she wants to achieve.
To
achieve
those goals, she has to bring the right people around to
way of thinking. Color can help any

where otherwise she might fail.
her
Don't misunderstand
heavily on color to
176
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
hope
it
us.
make
all
It's
woman
unrealistic to
depend too
your dreams come
goes without saying that
it
succeed
true.
takes appreciably
We
more
than the right-colored dress or
a closet tull ot
dress-tor-
recommend you for a

you do your job will have far more to
success suits to get your boss to
promotion.
How
do with the final outcome. Nevertheless, over a period of

time your wardrobe and how you utilize color in your
wardrobe do give your boss and your colleagues a powerful subliminal message about you. That message can
either help or hinder you in your quest for advancement.
The important point here is that you must remain
goal-oriented in choosing colors and planning your wardrobe. You must assemble a wardrobe that not only meets
your long-term goals for success but makes allowances
for any contradictory short-term goals as well. If that
seems contusing, keep in mind that your short-term goals
won't always parallel exactly your overarching long-term
ones.
What do we mean by
this? Take a case where you want

you meet at an important event
with an impression of you that's totally at odds with the
to leave the strangers
real
you, for whatever the reason.
make
well
sure you're tully aware of
enough
Here's
to deploy
a series ot
it
it
to create the desired image.
examples:
Perhaps you want to go unnoticed for
woman
has days
when
On
reducing yourself to nonentity
you have
day. Every
the other hand, she doesn't
appear as an unattractive
to
she'd like to transmogrify into the
proverbial fly on the wall.
want
your goal,
If that's
and understand color
a larger-than-lite
size
Unfortunately,
tly.
may
be hard to do
quality about you.
But
if
can
it
be done and color can help.

Just suppose
you have
strong, assertive personality
you well in your occupation as a saleswoman.

However, at a forthcoming luncheon meeting with a
group of powerful, elderly male clients, your boss has
warned you it may do your company great harm if you
that serves
act like
your usual garrulous, liberated
self
Before the
luncheon, your boss pleads with you to behave in
way
makes these men think you're simply "a nice lady,"

who is soft and quietly intelligent.
Or suppose you're a celebrity and you want to travel
incognito but without looking like a complete frump. Or
that
one
maybe you're going to an intimate dinner

to make sure you don't threaten or
want
shy hostess,
who
also
party and you
outshine your
happens to be your best
friend.
Color Charisma
177
Indeed, dressing
most
you do it:
It you
that
down
while
women would do
are
Muted
still
One of your
and
wear
best
little
and neutral
how
is
in all
your best camouflage.
no avant-garde
or no jewelry or other
Your shoes should be
distinguishing accessories.
styles
art
you can
one
neutral colors with no
by dressing
Select an outfit with a simple silhouette
please
an
or Gentle color type,
second accent color near the face
styles,
is
well to master. Here's
create a subtle, unobtrusive look
color head to toe.
looking good
classic
in tone.
Wear very natural-looking makeup
medium-toned
lip-
touch of eye shadows mascara, and blush, clear or
stick, a
sott-toned nail polish, and
classic hair style,
nothing
elaborate.
If
you
are a Light-Bright or Contrast color type,
you
can create an unobtrusive image by bending the rules for
women
with your coloring.
Put together an outfit in
combine them in such a way that

they create a softer contrast than you would ordinarily
wear. Blended looks, as you'll recall, are not your best
your best
level
colors, but
of contrast.
For
women
another option
with Light-Bright or Contrast coloring,

is
to create a
monotone look using one of

on Your Color 1 Color
the dark neutrals or light colors
Chart
but don't choose white or black.
jet black are hardly forgettable colors

a
Stark white and
on you.
Do
not add
second accent color to your monotone outfit or wear
much jewelry.
The same makeup and
hair style advice
we
gave Muted
and Gentle color types applies to you. Keep
Wear
a slightly
toned-down
lip
it
simple.
color and blush and less
eye makeup.
By
this time,
you must
see our point. In choosing the
outfit you're
going to wear for
up front the
effect
you want
to
a particular
event, decide
have on others. Then be
highly selective about the colors and color combinations
you wear
178
COLOR WOSDERFUL
to achieve that effect.
Mood
Dressing and Other Special
Effects
We
do not agree with those who claim that a woman's

The idea that coloring and personality bear any relation whatsoever to
coloring dictates her personality type.
each other strikes us
A woman
have an
woman
ethereal,
romantic outlook on
Nor
life.
is
with Muted coloring automatically some sort of
earth mother.
Contrast color types are not
looking
women
Nor
all
are
golden
nonsense.
as utter
with Gentle coloring does not necessarily
with halos around their heads.
some
is
merit, however, in trying to create etheshowstopper looks no matter what color
real, earthy, or
type you
exotic-
those with Light-Bright coloring heaven-sent
girls
There
all
with dramatic, extroverted personalities.
are.
The Ethereal
You might
also
or Fragile
call
this
Look
romantic look.
It's
soft,
ultra-feminine kind of beauty. (We've illustrated this in

Plates 1-4.)
To
style
you must choose
create this effect,
and
fabric that connotes femininity.
and sheer, smooth, lightweight

pattern in the fabric
must
fabrics
garment
in a
Ruffles,
lace,
are ideal.
Any
also further the cause ot this
starry-eyed romantic vision of loveliness you seek
to
become.
Here
depending on your
are the color rules to follow
color type:
Muted. Several color combinations

an utterly feminine softness.
with one or several of your best pastels

light purple,
best off-white
off-white,
(e.g.,
and pink), or combine your best pastels with
some other good medium-light

combine
values (e.g., light yellow
same color
and
coral), or
and
light value (e.g., light blue-green
green),
you evoke
will help
Combine your
which
the
creates a
medium
and medium bluein
duo-monotone
both
look.
patterns in these blended combinations, please.
No
small
An all-one-
Color Charisma
179
color look in off-white, light beige, or one of your pastels
can also create a "romantic" look.
Women
with Muted and Muted/Contrast coloring
have to add
medium
jewelry, or scarf
to
or dark accent
may
piece of
a belt,
complete these rather light-looking
outfits.
Gentle. Because of your natural coloring, this

easiest effect in the
born with
ing,
more
world
for
you
to create.
the
is
You were
softened, ethereal look to your color-
even though you
may
belie that
image every time
you open your mouth.

For you, the look of romance
levels ot contrast
and
is
fostered by blended
and all-one-color looks
in
your white,
For example, combine
a light and
medium-light value of one of your best colors, such as
light blue and medium-light blue, to create a blended,
light beige,
duo-monotone
pastels.
look,
colors with different
or combine several of your

medium-hght colors, such as
light
yel-
low, medium-light purple, light pink, and
a touch of
pure white, or combine two or more of your best pastels,
such
as light
green and light coral.
Light-Bright and Contrast. Because ot their coloring,

Light-Bright and Contrast color types must create
a
medium
tions.
No
at least
of contrast with the following combina-
level
blended looks, please:
Using your best

color with the
colors,
medium
mix
the light values of one
values of a different color, such as
pink with a medium-value bright purple, or

wear pure white with a medium-value bright color such
as white and medium-value blue-green, or wear head-totoe pure white, or a medium-value bright, such as a
medium-value coral.
a clear light
Light-haired Light-Bright color types
may
use the
same
color combinations listed for Gentle color types, but they
must use
their
own
best clear pastels and clear
medium-
light values.
Earthy Looks
People associate the word "earthy" with autumn. They're
not far off since browns, camels, beiges, orange-corals,
yellows, golds, greens, and rusts are the colors
180
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
ommend
to
summon up
this effect.
They
also
we
rec-
happen
to
be the colors of the falHng leaves. Plums, purples, and

teal
blues are also shades that create this look, especially
when you combine them with
the "earthy" tones
we just
listed.
There
no one
is
associated with earthy looks.
style
Casual knockaround clothes, tailored
high fashion
suits,
even formal evening gowns can be given an au-
outfits,
tumnal ambiance by the studied use of "earth colors."

Besides the use of certain colors, there's something else
about this look that's evocative of autumn: texture. Every
color type can wear textured fabrics and jewelry effectively.
Gentle and Light-Bright color types must simply
avoid the coarsest,
And those with

must make sure their
roughest textures.
Light-Bright and Contrast coloring

textured metals are not dull.
fabulous "textured"
dinating
same
fall
look can be evoked by coor-
two or more patterns with each other in

Be really daring and experiment with
outfit.
the
this
pattern-on-pattern effect.
In addition, ethnic, antique, handcrafted,
jewelry lend
and primitive
nice finishing touch to any earthy style of
dress.
Muted. You were born
You wear
natural coloring.
by
to this look
dint of
texture exquisitely, and
your
muted
colors look lovely on you.
The
ited
autumn looks you put together are limonly by your imagination. So combine your best
different
browns, beiges, camels,
and
rusts in
corals,
yellows, golds, greens,
any innovative way that
your fancy.
suits
don't overlook your plums, purples, and

Gentle.
You
and medium
can simulate
levels
And
teals.
look by creating soft
a fall
of contrast with various combinations
of your best toned-dow^n, even subdued shades of browns,

corals, camels, beiges, yellows, greens,
and
rusts.
Don't
forget to add your best shades of plums, purples, and teal

blues.
Light-Bright and Contrast. These color types can create earthy looks
by using medium
assemble outfits that

clear corals,
levels
utilize their best
of contrast to
shades of browns,
camels, beiges, clear yellows, clear greens,
rusts, clear vibrant
plums and purples and
clear teal blues.
Just be careful not to create blended looks. In short, avoid
medium-dark and dark ensembles
unless
you add
a light
Color Charisma
181
or bright accent.
And remember
t\
dear colors.
As we've
said earlier, the use
<
pattern effects, as well as antique,
handcrafted jewelry enhance this

color types.
Show Stopper Looks

What do we mean by
"showsto
so striking yet tasteful that heads
you walk
into a
Granted, not
ti
room.
women want
all
tl
way. The attention

developed
sufficiently
is
not
ego
and aaahs with grace and decoru
them
in this
it's
more comfortable
We
to maintain
should add that
many
image
won't appreciate this

up-and-coming executive
ing house, for instance.
either,
at a staic
On
the o
up-and-coming promotion assists

ment store, your employer may Ic
It's up to you. If the notion of a
you, here's how you do it:
First of all, the showstopper loc
high fashion one.
It
can be create
clothing in unusual or strong mix
and purple, blue-green and red,

tones of colors on your chart. (
color types: Either
combine the
makeup
color rules
we gave you
to the subject earlier in this
Some
in the chapters
devoted
book.
high fashion styles are accompanied by specific
The "in" colors for an Art Deco clothing renaissance would certainly include an electric royal blue, for
instance. A throwback to turn-of-the-century styles would
colors.
dictate a plentiful use
Many
of mauve.
times the popular colors for
a particular
season
emerge by some mysterious and unspoken consensus among the better-known fashion designers. Usually, they're colors due for a comeback because they've
seem
to
been overlooked for several of the preceding seasons.
Because you can wear every color
in the
spectrum
provided, of course, they are in your best shades and

clarities
you'll always be able to put together an outfit in
your shades of the latest fashion colors. Fortunately, clothing designers and manufacturers make the current styles
in that season's colors in a range of shades and clarities.
Thus, you'll always find something you love that enhances you, too!
Just
cumb
Be
to
remember, under no
haute couture pressure
circumstances must yow ever sucto
conform
to unflattering colors.
resourceful and put together the latest fashion look in
shades of color you wear well.
Muted. Since a showstopper look is an eye-catching

you will want to wear the medium tones of colors on
one,
your chart
in the brightest clarity
you can handle. That
means making sure that those brighter colors don't ever

make you look washed-out or garish. Aim for unusual
color combinations.
Some
a
head-turning combinations for you might be:
toned-down red
suit
worn with
toned-down bluish
medium-scale geometric-patterned dress in green,

cream with a necklace of soft gold metal
a silk
purple, rust, and
and rust beads,
hoop
Of
a soft
gold metal bracelet, and matching
earrings
course,
down
all
of the above colors will have
toned-
clarity.
Gentle. Showstopper
combos
tor Gentle color types
involve the strongest, boldest colors in medium values that
you can wear. Just make sure any colors you choose
overpower your coloring.
aren't so strong they
What
level
medium
level
of contrast underscores the look? For you,

of contrast.
Try mixing and matching some of the following:

a
purple suit with
green blouse and amethyst beads
coral slacks with a blue sweater
blue-green
silk slacks
silk overshirt
and camisole worn with
raspberry
and raspberry-toned jewelry
France"
"la belle
light tones
and coral beads
print dress with
floral
medium and
of blue. pink, yellow, and white
All ot the
above colors
Light-Bright. Warning!
will
have
You have
toned-down
clarity.
delicate coloring that
overpowered by strong mixes of colors. So make

certain you always add a light color when you create your
showstopper bright looks.
To emulate that showstopper look, aim tor more dramatic and unusual color combinations than you might
is
easily
ordinarily wear.
For you. there are two levels of contrast appropriate to

the showstopper look: your strongest level of contrast as
well as a
medium
level
of contrast.
Experiment with combinations

a
clear
medium-toned red
yellow blouse and
suit
like these:
worn with
clear light
red beaded necklace twisted around a
gold chain
clear
medium-light green slacks coordinated with
medium-light coral sweater and

184
COLOR IVOXDERFL'L
scale patterned scarf
of
small- to
coral, green,
and white
a clear
medium-
medium
vibrant
purple
silk
pants
worn with
bright but
light-looking pink tunic

a
white dress with navy dots accessorized with
belt, shoes,
a clear
me-
Contrast. Since you must always create strong or
dium
red
and earrings
levels
of contrast with your best clear colors, you
are wearing
your showstopper looks anytime you wear
unusual mixes of your strongest and brightest colors.
Here
few suggestions:
are a
a clear red suit
worn with
a vibrant
purple blouse and
shiny silver accessories

bright blue-green slacks and
sweater in your best hot
pink, finished off with a turquoise necklace, bracelet, and
earrings
vibrant yellow silk slacks and camisole coordinated with a

vibrant blue silk jacket and vivid blue and gold beads
worn with gold
earrings
of black and pure white
a dress
in a
bold design worn
with bold black and white earrings.
Power Dressing
This
the look that says, "I'm
is
person of authority."
says several other things, too, such as
"You
can trust
It
me
implicitly. I'm a capable, well-educated, streetwise professional.
me on
Put
your team and you'll never regret
it."
You
can attain
this
look by wearing your best dark and
light neutrals together in the strongest appropriate level
of contrast for your coloring.

other colors
Over
this
if
you
You may add
touches of
like.
the last ten years, a lot has been written about
mode of
dress for
women. Much of
we
it
couldn't
disagree with more.

First
of
all,
too
many women have been brainwashed
to equate career dressing with man-style dressing. This
not necessary. Business
attire for
ambitious
women
is
does
not have to be severe or imitate men's clothing to be

effective. In fact, in the right style
and color,
a dress
can
Color Charisma
185
image
foster an authority
just as well as a tailored skirted
suit look.
Moreover, the often-suggested "uniform" of a dark

suit worn with stark white blouse creates too strong a
of contrast for more than half of you.
level
In
such
uniform, instead of looking powerful, you can end up

looking weak and overwhelmed as if your suit, not
you,
is
5.4, 6.3,
But
your look. (Photos
the controlling factor in
and 6.4 show just
how
this
your preference, today you have many
if suits are
different suit styles to choose from,
feminine in terms of both their
broad range of
5.3,
happens.)
styles enables
some o( them
lines
you
and
quite
This
fabric.
to find suits in colors
and neutrals that look superb on you and also fit any and
all of your career dress requirements. (Plate 31 offers a
good example.)
Fortunately, the mass entry of
jobs over the
last
on the subject of
recast their thinking
more
ing
women
into responsible
decade has tbrced fashion designers to
and to create
suits
dresses appropriate for career dressing. Thus,
women
no longer limited
are
to
work-
the conservative
tailored suit look.

If you haven't been wearing many dresses, we suggest
you take a look at what's available. Give special consider-
ation to dresses that can be

beautifully
tailored
worn with
a jacket, blazer,
cardigan sweater jacket. Just
or
make
sure they are well-made dresses in appropriate styles and
handsome
fabrics. (See
ness wear,
Photo 6.2 and Plate
print dresses,
stronger contrast or
is
37.)
For busi-
particularly if the design has
busy-looking,
a bit
may need
solid-colored jacket to mitigate the print's overall effect.
Are there
certain colors associated
with power dressing?
are. For men, they are the dark

navy and medium to dark gray. For
Unfortunately, there
neutral colors of
women,
too,
they are darker colors,
somewhat wider.
In addition to the
tioned, there are deep greens,
deep
teal
blue,
two
but the range

colors just
is
men-
burgundy, wine, deep plum,
browns, and black. Beige, camel, and
lighter grays are also very businesslike colors, but because
of
their lighter value,
you cannot
of contrast. Therefore you get
less
create as strong a level
of the so-called power
look.
We
186
COLOR WONDERFUL
are
happy
to report that such color stereotypes in
business are gradually evaporating. Color
Associates
is
in
the vanguard of forces leading the revolution in female
professional dress. We're eager for the day

ful,
understated outfit
wearer
/'//
any
deemed appropriate
is
when
color that looks
a taste-
good on
the
business dress.
But to be realistic about it, that day hasn't arrived yet.

That 180-degree turnabout we seek is still a few years off.
So until the business color millennium is reached, here are
the color rules for each color type. They will help you
create the look of a woman with one foot already placed
on the next step of the career ladder:
Muted. No navy suits with pure white blouses for you,
please. This is far too strong a level of contrast for a
woman with your Muted coloring.
But don't despair. If you want a dark-Hght powerful
look, a light beige blouse worn with that same navy suit
will create the same effect and look enhancing. You may
also wear light gray or any of your pastels in blouses with
any of your dark neutral suits. Experiment with a medium
to dark gray suit worn with an off-white blouse or a navy
suit worn with a light coral blouse. Such outfits represent
way
the ideal
proximate
Muted
for a
woman
with Muted coloring to ap-
power
traditional
Also,
look.
color types can wear their dark
dark-haired
brown with
their
white.
Maybe
a less buttoned-down image is your goal. Then

mixing and matching the following muted colors in
dresses and less tailored suits:
try
Wear
the darkest
example,
red with your
chart
for
toned-down
clarities
on your color
dark blue, dark blue-green, or dark
lightest neutrals
(i.e.,
pale grays, beiges,
and your whites). Or try various combinations utilizing

the darker values of green, blue-green, plum, purple,
wine, burgundy, rust, and brown coordinated with your
best pastel shades.
For example, wear

stripe or
a silk print dress that
has a subtle
geometric pattern of blue and gray on
rust
Add a blue jacket that matches the blue in

the dress. Or how about combining a dark purple skirt
with a medium gray jacket, an off-white blouse, and
background.
purple beads, or your darkest

blouse and
a subtle coral,
Gentle. Like
Muted
brown skirt with a camel

brown tweed jacket.
camel, and
you must avoid the

brown combined
same "powerful" look,
color types,
strong contrast of black, navy, or dark
with white.
You
can get that
Color Charisma
187
however, by combining your best dark neutrals with all

of your other hght neutrals and pastels. Because of your
natural coloring, these combinations look as strong on
you
black and white or navy and white look on a
as
woman
For
with
with Contrast or Light-Bright coloring.

high authority look, try wearing
a light
dark gray
navy suit coordinated with a pale beige or

blouse and a delicate gold chain and earrings.
or
For
or dark values of your colors,
medium
gray
a light
suit
Or wear your
and medium tones of
plum suit worn with an offVery dark-haired Gentle color

dark brown with their white.
neutrals, say, a dark
white or camel blouse.

types
commedium,
combined
blue blouse, for example.
darker colors in suits with the light
your
light blue
businesslike but slightly less powertiil look,
bine your light neutrals in suits with the light,
with
suit
coral-pink or off-white blouse and gray pearls,
may combine
their
Light-Bright and Contrast. Because strong levels of

contrast are enhancing to them,
women
with Light-Bright
and Contrast coloring have an easier time creating an authoritative appearance.
Any
color combhiations that create
Try combining your
are good.
white blouse or
(it
a clear light
best
dark-light effect
navy
in a suit
pink blouse, or
black appears on your chart) with
with
black suit
white, light beige,
or light pearl gray blouse.
For
businesslike but slightly less high authority look,
you might wear your darkest
clear blue-green in a suit
with several of your best clear pastels or light neutrals, or
combine your dark gray with a clear medium shade of

red (and, if you are a Light-Bright color type, accent the
outfit with pearls), or try your best dark brown with
your best
There
clear light blue.

is
one distinction
to be
Bright and Contrast color types.

influential,
mixing
women
their
made between
To
Light-
look businesslike and
with Light-Bright coloring should avoid
dark colors and dark neutrals with their
bright colors unless they add
significant
amount of
lightness to the outfit. Lighter-haired Light-Bright color
types can wear hght neutrals with clear light pastels or
with other light neutrals, but Contrast color types need to
add
bright or dark accent to such combinations, other-
wise they are too soft or blended

188
'
COLOR WOXDERFUL
their coloring.
a level
of contrast for
Final Note About Your
Get-Ahead Wardrobe
We
hope you understand
that
try into account in deciding
image. This
is
vitally
not be equated with
you must take your indus-
how
important.
a
to put together a career
An
aspiring banker can-
strivmg advertising copywriter or
major food company.

In 1982, Savvy magazine surveyed their readership on
the subject of executive dress, emphasizing style, not color,
an ambitious dietitian for
in
its
The findings were reported in

The Savvy editors discovered that:
questionnaire.
March 1983
issue.
Women who work

the
of
most
in the
the
Northeastern United States are
liberated fashionwise and consider a wider range
styles appropriate for business wear.
Women who work
for manufacturing
companies and
fi-
nancial institutions, surprisingly enough, feel less restrained
about what they can wear than
women who work
in
old-line, client-service industries such as the law.
To no
one's surprise,
women
in the creative industries
advertising, publishing, and
constraints of
Do
all
communications feel the

about their working wardrobe.
least
not conclude from these results that in the "cre-
ative industries" anything goes. Like their counterparts in
more conservative
economy, "creative
form the core of their
wardrobes. It's just that they feel freer to wear more
avant-garde color combos (as in Plate 45) and unusual
accessories (see Photo 5.6) and to incorporate some of the
high fashion looks that are in for one season and out the
the
women"
sectors of the
also find that classic styles
next.
Color Charisma
189
Chapter 11
Color Budgeting
Now
got
that you're almost at the end of this book, we've

hunch about what you're thinking.
All this advice
what
how
For the
terrific.
of color and
clarities
understand
is
levels
time,
first
my
know
of contrast to wear.
natural coloring.
and makeup
to select prints, jewelry,
colors that enhance
know how
to
dress to create a desired effect.
"But," that inner voice of yours
supposed
to
do about
and drawers?
Dump
all
is
them out and spend
that
is
my
not what you're supposed to do
unless,
course, you're an heiress or a self-made millionairess
can afford such extravagance.
So
190
COLOR IVOSDERFUL
it
is
to the
woman on
simply abhors waste that
this
Most women
budget or the
chapter
is
closet
mint replacing
everything?"
No,
"what am
wailing,
the costly mistakes in
of
and
are neither.
woman who
dedicated.

Wardrobe Errata
Over
the years, we've noticed that our dients tend to fall

one of six general categories in terms of their preColor 1 wardrobe mistakes.
To help you assess your own wardrobe situation, we're
going to describe these six universal garment collection
into
As you read through the list, ask yourself. Which

capsule profile sounds like me? Or other women I know?
goofs.
The Conglomeration
Women
in this
Collection
category are always complaining, "I have
nothing to wear," despite their several closets
They
with
filled
clothes.
They're
that
nothing that coordinates into even one dynamite-
is,
looking
don't have anything to wear
outfit.
So what's
right.
in all those closets?
thorough examination usually reveals
of items
in
mish-mash
every style and color imaginable ("Isn't vari-
("Oh
ety the spice of life?") and often several sizes as well
wear when I lose ten pounds").

In those closets and drawers you'll also find clothes so
dated that they remind you of Judy Garland in the 1954
remake of A Star Is Born ("Full skirts and crinolines have
that!
to
bought
it
to
come back sooner
or
later,
don't they?").
Then
the rag-bag notables with the broken zippers,
there's
missing
buttons, grease spots, and cigarette holes ("Well,
just
haven't had time to repair them yet").
Perhaps saddest of
all
are the clothes that bear
tionship whatsoever to the
knows?
woman's
no
life-style
rela-
("Who
may
turn into Cinderella and get invited to a

someday. I can dream, can't I?").
Excuses aside, the conglomeration collection is a wardrobe with no balance, unity, or direction. Plowing through
I
fairy-tale ball
these closets to
every day
to
is
come up with
just
one passable
outfit
an enormous waste of time and energy, not
mention the enormous waste of money the whole
kit
and caboodle represents.
Color Budget iti'^
191
Bargain Bare
Instead of amassing a closet full o
sons above, this
woman
a slavi
is
choosing clothes, she has one
money.
"I bought
Or
on
it
how
$10.98,
could
sale.
I
Maybe
it's
resist?"
"This blouse was marked

I'll
prir
down
be able to find just the perfect
This woman's wardrobe
podge you've come across
is
since y
the conglomeration collector.
end
prob
di
results.
The Neutral Niche

Next
to
hunter,
the conglomeration coll
who
at least
shopping and
get
some joy
collecting,
the
wo
herself into a neutral niche lives or
She's afraid of color, afraid of

attracting too
she got
tasteful
it
much
attention.
mak
Son
into her head that nei
and expensive-looking."
confining herself to these nonthre

she thinks "go with everything."
Regardless of her natural colorin

displays a tidy assortment of almos
able
off-whites, beiges, browns,
navv
blark
hiircrnndv
wine
m^
cannot wear
taupe-beige with
golden beige,
pink-
beige with a golden camel, or a golden camel with a
many garments
reddish brown. This means that
worn
"neutral niche" cannot be
in the
together.
Whereas a journey through the first two closets gave

you a headache, this one makes you want to curl up and
go to sleep. Faced with such a closet, we sometimes wish
we could just wave a magic wand and zap some color in
between all those neutrals.
The Uniform Dresser

Some people arc the visual equivalent of a broken record.
Every time you see them, they are dressed in the same
colors and style. The preppy look is one example.
Maybe you first hit upon this image in college and
haven't changed it since. If that was ten or fifteen years
how dated you look. Or you simply don't

much about clothes and you've been too lazy to
learn. Or you're afraid and don't know how to go about
developing other styles. Or you think accurately or
ago, consider
care
inaccurately
that
your singular look
able one at your place of
We
hope
this
courage to add
create
book
a little
some of those
work
or for your life-style.
will give
more
the only accept-
is
you
the
knowledge and
variety to your wardrobe, to
special effects
we
talked about in the
previous chapter.
Think of your wardrobe
Not only do
as a
medium of
expression.
clothes serve the practical purpose of cover-
ing your body, they're also a kind of resume that
other people
who you
where you
are
are
tells
coming from
You, on the other hand, wear a rainbow of glorious

colors, all of them too clear and bright to suit your
natural coloring. You appear "headless" in your clothes
because, when people look at you, all your outfits have a
more pronounced visual impact than your soft or toneddown natural coloring. People keep scanning your attire
when they should be looking at your face and listening to
what you're saying. (Plates 27, 30, and 40 illustrate this
best.)
Now don't misunderstand us. The bright colors you

wear might look great on a different color type. But on
you they're simply overpowering. Not only are your
wardrobe colors too bright, you also may be combining
them in a way that creates too strong a level of contrast.
You guessed it. Women with Gentle and Muted coloring are the typical offenders here. But a Light-Bright
color type, too, could be at fault if she tends to wear dark
two overly bright
colors with bright colors

gether, or
two dark
colors to-
colors together.
What about Contrast color types?

It would be hard for them to err in
this direction unless
they consistently wear shades of colors that are far

intense or glowing than those
they wear bright
Ms.
This
clarities that are
their color charts.
more
Or
if
not in their best shades.
Insignificant
is
from the one being made by

has assembled a wardmake her the most forgettable charac-
the opposite mistake
the headless person. This
robe guaranteed to
ter
on
woman
anybody ever met.
Why?
Because the colors and contrast levels she wears

toned-down,
are too
muted, or blended-looking for her
natural coloring. (Study Plates 36 and 38 to see what we
mean.)
Any woman,
prey to
this
regardless of her color type, could
offense.
Contrast and Light-Bright color
types will look insignificant, washed-out, even

if
they wear blended looks and
toned-down than those on
Muted
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
down
clarities
clarities.
way
more subdued than
if
"mousey,"
that are
their color charts.
color types will look this
colors that are far

194
fall
more
Gentle and
they dress in
their best toned-
Salvaging Some of the Clothes

You Already Own
we used the word "some."

you own an item of clothing in a color that's "just
okay" for you not great, but not bad either we don't
expect you to throw it out just because your color consciousness has been raised. Not at all. Read on, for we're
Notice
If
about to explain
almost
terrific.
how
to
make
middling color look
this
Utilizing our trompe
this
the
effect called a
I'oeil
"color break," you can keep wearing
the clothes in
all
category until they are ready to be discarded through
normal process of
On
attrition.
you own garments in shades or

of color that are diametrically opposed to those
you should be wearing, those items will have to be weeded
the other hand, if
clarities
out ot your closet immediately. The sooner the better.
For example, suppose you're
Muted
color type and
hanging
in your closet is an intense lemon yellow dress

makes you look washed-out and ill every time you've
tried to wear it. The color is beautiful, though. You love
that
it!
Forget the beautiful color.

all.
Unfortunately, there's no
It's
not right for you, that's
way we know of to make
color like that look even remotely acceptable on you. In
likehhood, you haven't been wearing

anyway because "There's always been
all
that dress.
Sorry,
that dress
much
something about
..."
the dress
and
anything
shades for your personal coloring

luck there won't be too
else
has
many garments
in
such disaster
got to go. With

in this
extreme
category in your wardrobe.
Deploying
the ''Color Break''
as a Salvage
"color break"
is
Tool
blouse, sweater, other type of top,
or neck accessory in a shade that looks gorgeous on you.
Color Budêtii^^
195
This gorgeously colored garment also happens to coordinate well
and
of contrast
in the right level
with
the
not-so-great color of the garment you are trying to rescue.
The
principle of the color break
Since the face
body,
your
it's
this:
is
the predominant area of focus
is
on the
imperative that you wear enhancing colors near
you do, people will notice how radiant the

makes you look and take less notice
If
face.
color break garment
of the
of your
rest
outfit.
For instance, suppose you

sweater in
with
why you
can't continue to
cashmere provided you accessorize
that luxurious
a color
it
near your face that looks terrific on you. In
Plate 33, Jeanne
is
wearing
a dress that is
not flattering to
her Light-Bright coloring; additionally,
too
cashmere
beautiful
too somber for you. Don't
is
There's no reason
despair.
wear
shade that
own
browned and too
The
strong.
her
makeup
is
addition of a scarf
(solid color or patterned) in her best colors, as well as a
change of makeup, would create
much more becoming
form of a patterned
must contain the less than perfect color,
admittedly, but its predominant colors should make your
eyes sparkle and your complexion glow. If you can wear
look. If your color break takes the
the scarf
scarf,
the sweater over a blouse, the collar of the blouse be-
comes
in
the color break.
At the very
least, a
strand of beads
an enhancing color must be worn.
On
the other hand, suppose the
to save
is
a suit, skirt,
garment you
or pair of slacks.
colored blouse or sweater will do the

or sweater (crew or V-neck) that's
Wear
a jacket,
Then
trick. If it's a
at fault,
another blouse, or
scarf or a
blouse
he innovative.
cardigan sweater as
your color break, and perhaps add
are trying
a correctly
handsome,
eye-catching piece of jewelry.

If
your problem presents
itself in the
form of
difficult.
But
High-necked garments
here's a suggestion:
Try
they are as small and as

possible; then
as close to
wear
your
far
196
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
mind
its
to
down
away from your
so
face as
wonderful scarf or piece of jewelry
face as possible.
how
be
are the hardest to "save."
rolling the necks
Or
around the turtleneck and covering

In deciding
a turtle-
may
neck or cowl sweater, frankly, rescue attempts
deploy
it
try tying the scarf
completely.
a color break,
purpose: to deflect attention
always bear in
away from
the blah
or harmful colors you're wearing and throw the spotlight
where
belongs
it
on your
face.
Not every garment or outfit that needs help to make it

work needs a color break some just need a color accent to
bring up the level of contrast. In Plate 36, for example,
there
is
no offending color involved,
just too soft a con-
trast level for Jennifer's Contrast coloring. If she added
red accessories and
look
touch more makeup, the dress would
much more
flattering.
To
bring up the level of
contrast illustrated in Plate 38, Betty could add
neck
accessory in the strongest color that appears in her print
blouse
the purple.
The Cost of Your Wardrobe Salvage

Operation
shouldn't cost you much provided your pre-Color 1

wardrobe isn't too far off course.
What you should spend your money on first are colorperfect hpsticks, blush, foundation, and eye makeup and
blouses and other
color break and color accent garments
tops, scarves and necklaces that look expensive and are as
visually arresting as possible. When you choose those
It
remember
whole idea of a
that seizing the
color break clothing items,
viewer's attention
is
the
know
Before you
closet will gradually begin to
you can
do,
that,
we
replace
color break.
the not-so-great colors in your
it,
wear
The minute they
out.
them with color-perfect garments

you more pleasure than you
predict, will bring
ever could imagine!
Shopping with
At
first
blush,
you might
shades of colors in
Just the opposite
your best
colors,
is
Color Chart
feel that
shopping for
a specific clarity will
true.
Once your eye
you can stand
in the
take
specific
more
time.
gets attuned to
middle of
bou-
Color Budgêting
197
tique or a section of a department store and note whether

your colors are hanging on the racks. If they aren't, you
can check another department or store. Unless you are an
inveterate browser,
there's
no sane reason for you
to
bother sorting through the garments on those racks, none
of which contain your colors

find yourself
the
wrong
especially since
tempted by an item
in a
smashing
you may
style but
color for you.
After you've been collecting clothes in your best colors
something wonderful. All

your new purchases will coordinate with the things back
home in your closet because they're in your best colors,
too. That's one of the life-saving aspects of the Color 1
for a
v/hile,
you'll discover
Associates concept: Nearly

with each other
in
all
your
best
colors
coordinate
some exciting way.
You'll also discover you can afford to purchase
expensive clothing,
if
you know the color

need
as
many
is
you have
the desire,
ideal for you;
and
(2)
more
because
(1)
you won't
individual items of clothing because nearly
everything you
own
mixes and matches, creating the
lovehest-looking outfits you've ever worn.
you don't believe us, start counting the number of

daily compliments you get wearing your best makeup
If
colors with your best clothing colors.
198
'
COLOR WONDERFUL
Glossary
BLACKING OUT A
when
it is
the skin.
color
be "blacking out"
is
said to
it
looks almost black against
so dark in value that
For example, an extremely dark purple that
blacking out will no longer look purple but like
own
toned black. Each individual has her
is
purple-
which
level at
color will start to black out.
BODY COLORING Those colors that exist on the body:

the natural color of the skin, hair, and eyes as well as the red
color of the
lips,
palms, and fingertips. See complimentary
colors
CLARITY A
color's
on
brightness,
scale
from very
bright to extremely subdued. Each color shade and color
come
value (see shade and value) can

clarities.
The same shade of
red,
in
the full range of
for example,
bright on the one extreme or subdued
could be
at the other.
Color
divides clarity into four categories: intense, bright, toned-down,
and subdued.
CLARITY, BRIGHT A
saturation of
pigment with
color that contains a fairly strong

a little
white hghtens the color just
glowing
intensity, yet
tion of pigment.
it,
of
It is
white added. The touch of
bit,
taking the edge off
its
keeping the color bright.
CLARITY, INTENSE A
looking because
all
the
color that
is
strong and electric-
the clarities, has the greatest satura-
most
vivid,
powerful
clarity.
Glossary
199
CLARITY, SUBDUED
color that appears quiet-looking
brown pigment added to

toned-down, a subdued color has a
dusrv overlay and looks far more muted.
because
It.
has an obvious gray or
it
Next
to a color that
TONED-DOWN A
CLARITY,
sottness to
brown
is
Such
clarity.
its
or gray pigment in
COLOR ACCENT A
or
waist
at the
sweater,
shirt,
brighten,
a scart.
may have
touch of color
shght
worn
near the face
necklace, pin, earrings, blouse,
tie.
create
touch of
to create this softening effect.
it
This item ot color
or jacket.
lighten,
color that has
color
contrast,
used to
is
or otherwise balance
person's outfit.
COLOR BREAKA
tace.
Its
purpose
is
to
necessary color accent
suit in
would add
woman who
form of a blouse. To
color break, the blouse must be in

her.
color that's less than enhancing tor her
color break in the
near the
keep an unflattering color from ap-
pearing right next to the skin. For example,
wears
worn
color that
is
act as a
ideal for
In another instance, a sweater in an unflattering color
requires
color break. In this case,
necklace, or jacket in a
good
COLOR FAMILY Light,

same shade
it
might be
a scart.
tie,
color.
medium, and dark
values of the
ot a color.
COLOR TYPE A
Color
skin and hair colors and
category, based on
most enhancing
levels
person's
of contrast
in
color combinations.
COMPLIMENTARY COLORS All of the shades of colors, other
than
person's
body
colors, that are
most enhanc-
ing to her. and complete her personal color spectrum.
The
shades are always in the best clarity for that individual. See
body coloring
CONTRAST, LEVEL OF Color

ate
one ot three
cotitrast:
effects:
soft
(or
combinations that cre-
blended)
contrast:
medium
or strong contrast.
CONTRAST, MEDIUM A
combination of colors that
is
neither severely contrasting nor extremely blended-looking.
The
200
COLOR
IVOS'DERFL'L
visual
medium
effect
blue
is
one of moderation. Examples are

or red worn with navy.
worn with cream,
(or BLENDED) A combination

of colors that gives the impression the colors are running
CONTRAST, SOFT
together, as
when
the colors are:
(1)
all
close in the color
and blue-green; (2) all light values,

such as beige, light pink, and light gray; or (3) all from the
same color family, such as a light value of periwinkle blue
worn with a medium value of the same periwinkle blue.
spectrum, such
as blue
CONTRAST, STRONG A
combination of colors that
creates the strongest contrasting visual effect: black and white,
navy and white, and dark brown and white. All other color
medium
combinations create either
OVERPOWERING An
or color combinations
or soft contrast.
adjective used to describe colors
that are too bright or strong for a
if a person is wearing too

of contrast, her clothing will visually "over-
person's coloring. For instance,
strong
a level
power"
her. See underpowerin^.
SHADE Every
different shades,
color and every neutral
red; kelly green, lime green,
sea green;
comes
many
in
rose red, fire-engine red, and brick
e.g.,
emerald green, moss green, and
golden brown, red-brown, chocolate brown, and
ash brown.
UNDERPOWERING
used to describe colors
toned-down
(or
DULL, DRAB) Adjectives
or color combinations
for a person's coloring. If a person
that are too

is
wearing
of contrast, for example, her outfit could be

said to look "underpowering." Such an outfit will make her
look dull and drab. See overpowering.
too soft
a level
VALUE Value
The
refers to a color's darkness or hghtness.
lightest values
of
color are often called pastels.
The
deepest values are termed dark colors. Those in between are
medium-value
WHITE,
is
colors.
PURE The
sometimes referred
brightest, starkest white there
to as a "bright
WHITE, "YOUR" The

white on you.
It
is
is.
It
white" or "blue-white."
shade o( white that looks
not so white that
off" your skin, or so off-white that
it
it
appears to
looks like
like
"jump
cream
color.
Glossary
201
Color 1 Associates in the

United States and Abroad
list represents all the Color 1 associates trained through September 1985. The list
grows every two months as another group of men and women leave the Color Associates training program to begin color-charting in their area.
If you do not find an associate listed for your area, you may contact either Color 1
Associates' corporate headquarters in Southern California or our Eastern office in Washing-
This
ton,
D.C.:
Color
Color 1 Associates
3176 Pullman Street, Suite 122
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 545-4517
Associates
2211 Washington Circle
Washington, D.C. 20037

(202) 293-9175
Asterisk indicates larger city nearby.
ALdh
Joyce Edwards, Enterprise

(205) 347-2529
*Dothan
Arizona
Usha Burns, Belyedere
Pamela McNair, Tucson
(415) 435-4720
*San Francisco
Susan Conrardy, Santa Rosa
(602) 299-4661
Marilyn Butler Subach, Phoenix

(602) 992-7441
Sarah Havnie, Birmingham
870-1624
Noretta Jones, Mobile
(205) 476-0457
Suzanne Kloess, Tuscaloosa
(205) 556-1579
Rosemary McKenzie, Selma
(205) 872-9477
(205)
Ali Padlo,
Montgomery
(205) 264-0463
Darlene Real, Birmingham

(205) 823-3607
Yolanda Trahan, Birnnngham
(205) 823-3666
Betty Wyatt, Decatur
(205) 350-4208
*Huntsvil!e
Arkansas
Donna Bradshaw, Hamburg
(501) 835-5421
Sudie Henderson, Fayetteyille

(501) 443-0599
Kay McKoy,
Little
Rock
(501) 664^2094
Elizabeth Moffett, Fort Smith

(918)
427-5366
Mary Frances
Hot Springs
Stonecipher,
(501) 624-2194
Little Rock
Linda Sulcer, Marion
(501) 739-3556
(707) 578-5415
JoAnn Grose, Tiburon

(415) 435-3899
*San Francisco
Kathy Hasley, Gilroy
(408) 847-1517
Jennifer Ho, San Francisco
(415) 349-8409/342-3797
Kathryn Jones, Sacramento
(916) 924-1252/447-8677
Meredith Ketscher. Waterford
(209) 874-1591
*Modesto
Chris Lynch, Mill Valley
(415) 383-0521
Julie Midili, Kentfield
(415) 461-3750
*San Francisco
Sheri Pfitzer, Los Banos
(209) 826-1130
*Fresno
Jacqueline Pidge, Pacifica
California (Northern)
Alaska
Myrt Arthur, San Mateo
(415)
Jolene Larson, Anchorage

(907) 337-7944
Pamela Libby, Anchorage

(907) 338-3358
349-8409
Betty Banner, Gilroy

(408) 842-2236
Sharon Bird, San Francisco
(415) 585-8478
202
(415) 355-7858
*San Francisco
Rosanne Polidora, Dayis
(916) 753-7331
Lynne Reinhardt, Redding

(916)
Tamara
(415)
221-2942
Shaff, Palo Alto
424-1120
Rosemary
Grove
Marjorie Mitchiner, Arcadia

(818) 447-4970
Marietta Smit, Littleton

(303) 797-3881
*Monterey
Los
Janet Thornton,
Elizabeth Soblin,
Ellen Nichols, Glendale
Snider, Pacific
(408) 649-4537
Angeles
(818) 248-7296
Castro Valley
(415) 886-(')97()
Oakland
Julie Nyquist,
Ft.
Collins
(303) 493-7309
Persis
South Pasadena
Wood, Colorado
Springs
(303) 635-8091
(818)^799-3468
Los
California (Southern)
Carol Benton, Ridgecrest
(619) 375-8550
Dolly Bovd, Calabasas
(818) 880-5793
Woodland
Hills
Jamie Byrne, El Toro

(714) 859-3262
Susan Corbett, Laguna Niguel
(714) 495-6565
Ginger Cralle, Laguna Beach
(714) 494-8978/499-3795
Barbara Dellinger,
Palm Springs
(619) 323-7739
Penny Eversole, Lake Forest
(714) 768-4150
Irvine
Joanne Franklin, Ramona
(619) 789-2518
Karen
Frazier,
Carbon Canyon
(714) 528-5155
Mary Gadwav,
Riverside
(714) 781-6468
Evelyn Georghiou, Ventura
(805) 643-2822
Vicki
Goodman,
Santa Monica
(213) 393-8564
Nancy
Harrer, Bakersfield
Angeles
Melanie Pankow. Sherman Oaks
(818) 501-0677
Los Angeles
Regina McMahon Purtzer, Redlands
(714) 792-0488
Lisa Rakers,
Harbor Citv
(213) 539-5871
(213) 438-5857
Marjorie Howe, San Diego
(619) 460-1438
Susan King, Northridge
(818) 885-9957/886-8887
Los Angeles
Betil Kunzler, Whittier
(213) 693-7424
Lona Larsen, Westchester

(213) 645-4469
Los
Angeles
Judy Lewis-Crum,
Corona del Mar
(714) 545-4517/640-0317
Janet
McCann,
Santa Barbara
(805) 966-9785
Helene Mills, Santa Monica

(213) 394-2282
Chapman, Wilton
762-0780
(203)
Bridgeport
Stephanie Hall, Darien
655-0340
(203)
957-0024
Martha Roberts, Andover
Jeanne Schoenfeld, Lajolla

(619) 456-2688
Patti Sparks, Newport Beach
(714) 545-4517
Jill Sprengel, Torrance
(213) 373-8048
Beverly Stephens, Pasadena
(818) 792-2656
Peggv Szameitat, Riverside

(7Y4) 369-0372
Catherine Tastor-Little, Roseville

(916) 791-2757
Suzanne Terry, Bel-Air

(213) 472-3487
Los Angeles
Bonnie Thornburg, De Garcia, Brea
(714) 956-5747
(203) 742-8904
Gayle Tainter, Fairfield
(203) 259-3508
Bridgeport
Delaware
Marcia Loschiavo, Wilmington
(302) 478-0523
M. Lorraine Nelson, Wilmington
(302) 652-3580
Florida
Sidney Radinger Bavne, Clearwater
(813) 726-0386
Tampa
Anaheim
Pat Weaver, Marina del
Rev
(213) 306-2396
Edee Wolfenberger, Santa Ana

(714) 662-2348
Marie Wright, Santa Barbara
(805) 966-2417
(805) 323-5562
Vembra Esra Holnagel,

Long Beach
Else
Stamford
Ruth Richter, Montrose

(818)
Connecticut
Marlene Culler, Tequesta

(305) 746-0506
West Palm Beach
Barbara Decker, Boca Raton
(305) 391-7760
Ava
Mvers
Fluty, Ft.
'
(813) 936-6500
Dorothv Folev,
Colorado
(305)
Indialantic
723-6634
Melbourne
Durango
Cassie Andrews,
(303) 247-0750
Ann Crawford, Denver

(303) 333-9111
Katherine Frost, Denver

(303) 778-1045
Gail
Ann Jones,
Littleton
(303) 973-8331
Mary
V. Lawson, Aurora
(303) 699-7002
Merdith McBride, Durango
(303) 247-3211
Mattie Fraser, Jacksonville

(904) 751-0500
Sandra Gallowav, Plantation
(305) 472-9585
Keys
Gloria Gant, Tallahassee
(904) 386-5957
Dwan
Green, Longwood
862-8524
(305)
Orlando
Sony a
Griffin,
Ocala
(904) 237-301
Edie Pepper. Englewood

(303) 758-5375/2920
Nancy Loose, Shalimar
Denver
Ft. Walton Beach

Nancv Marin, Palm City
LuAnn
Schell,
Steamboat Springs
(303) 879-4091
203
(904)
(305)
651-8289
283-4550
*Ft. Pierce
Paula Miller, Plantation
(305) 472-2338
*Joliet
*Keys
Michele Mingoia, Orlando
(305) 876-4758
Mabel Jean Morrison. Laurel Hill
(904) 652-4519
*Ft.
Walton Beach
Linda Pate, Pensacola

(904) 476-5129
Donna
Jean Blazekovich, Lockport

(815) 838-7977
Patrick, Sanford
(305) 321-0872
*C)rlando
LuAnn Powers, Longwood

(305) 788-0324
*Orlando
Malvane Severance,
Barbara Disse, Crystal Lake

(815) 459-0144
Jane Hinze, Rock Island
(309) 788-1488/5479
Marilyn Tyler Hughes,
Western Springs
(312) 246-7918
*Chicago
Jerene Pankow, Park Ridge

(312) 692-7275
Mclanie Pankow, Chicago

(312)698-1111
June Woodcock, Manhattan
(815) 478-3709
Jan Swinton. Iowa City

(319) 351-2832
Kansas
Mary Athev, Overland Park
(913) 381-4945
*Kansas City
Sara Curran,
Indiana
Ginnv
Cindy Baum. Wakarusa
*Sarasota
Sherrv Boram, Pendleton

(317) 778-2745
Haven
(813) 324-4936
Mary Zimmerman,
Jacksonville
825-6523
Kentucky
*lndianapolis
Lolita Crouse,
Greenwood
882-9772
Teri Cruse, Lexington
277-4289
(606)
*Indianapolis
Marna
Dorothv Garber, Greenwood

(317) 881-8992
Georgia
Sloo, Salina
(913)
(219) 862-4424
(317)
(904) 739-3332
Shawnee Mission
(913) 831-2265
Wichita
685-3113
Jeannine Shadwick, Salina
(913) 827-6761
Susan Votaw, Ft. Myers

(813) 955-5531
Whittle, Winter
246-3244
(712)
*S.W. Iowa
(316)
(904) 243-1881
W. O.
276-2055
(712)
Delia Staples, Shenandoah
Mary Ann McDonald,
*Joliet
Lake Citv
(904) 752-3822
Ellen Todd, Ft. Walton Beach
Sherrie Rossiter, Sioux Citv
Zalla, Burlington
(606) 586-7168
*Cincinnati
*lndianapoIis
Jane Avera, Thomaston

(404) 467-9402
Pamela Elkins, Valdosta

(912) 244-3775
Dot
Ni.xon,
Macon
(912) 474-9527
Diane Schultz, Atlanta

(404) 458-2838
Evelyn Thompson, Smyrna
(404) 436-2883
*Atlanta
Judec Gartland. La Porte

(219) 324-2305
Jenene Goodfellow,
(317) 257-9090
Carolvn Lahrman.
(219) 432-5087
Trudy Breithaupt, Shreveport

Ft.
Wayne
Greta Jones, Honolulu

(808) 422-6175
Idaho
Mavis Hagberg, Boise
(208) 376-7848
Illinois
Debra Blackman, Naperville

(312) 355-6781
(318) 868-6333
Carolyn Caillouet, Opelousas
(318) 942-5723
*Lafayette
Iowa
Nancy Baker,
Spirit
Lake
(712) 336-3392
Hawaii
Louisiana
Indianapolis
Jane Bauer, Marshalltown

(515) 753-3126
Faye Guidrv, Baton Rouge

(504) 766-4858
Charlotte Haslam, New Orleans
(504) 282-1038
JoAnn
872-6255
*S.E. Louisiana
*Des Moines
Marcia Buising, West Des Moines
(515) 225-2187
Peggy Fergeman, Waterloo
(319) 233-7599
Marcia Lippold, Des Moines
(515) 255-2315
Rebecca McDowell, Fairfield
(515) 472-8276
Marilyn McGrew,
West Des Moines
Mary Ann
Sherrv Landry,
(318)
Iberia
*Lafayette
Nancy W. Morrison, Shreveport

(318) 868-2163
Candy
(318)
Nichols, DeRidder
463-8878
Debra Norton,
Deborah Otto, Dubuque
All Padlo,
204
New
369-3777
(504)
(319) 556-7807
Janss, Slidell
(504) 641-9639
225-8966
(515)
Houma
Hebert,
(504)
(504)
New
Orleans
891-4330
New
288-7237
Orleans
Maine
Detroit
Tilly Atkins,
Jode MacMartm, Sawyer

(616) 469-0580
*S.W. Michigan
Hampden
(207) 862-3614
*Bangor
Lindlcy Harmon, Hancock
(207)
422-3084
Miriam Underwood,
Lynn Meagher Pettyjohn,
Nebraska
Traverse Citv
(616) 941-4468
Susan Olsen, Omaha

(402) 493-6598
Minnesota
Maryland
Lynda Pepin,
(402)
Marcia Behlert, Baltmiore

(301) 296-0239
Dee Bibeau. Annapolis
(301) 268-0020
Lvnne
'(301)
Lashlee, Laurel
776-1549
(202) 576-3345/3133
Tina Saddler, Easton

(301) 822-6440
Lissa Townsend, Severna Park
(301) 544-1524
Massachusetts
Susan DeSanna, Northampton
(413) 586-2622
Barbara Doty, Barnstable
(617) 362-9666
Lucinda Goldhill, Boston
(617) 723-6165
Marcia Mee Lee, Newtonville
(617) 965-3785
*Boston
Barrie Miller,
Weston
(617) 891-8294
*Boston
Judith Shea, North Andover
(617) 683-5599
*Lawrence
Omaha
734-1172
Kathie Behrens, Marietta

(612) 668-2556
Marlene Breu, Duluth

(218) 722-0619
Patricia Falls, Minneapolis
(612) 922-1044
Leslie Hilliard, St. Paul
698-7966
Susan Jacobsen, Minneapolis
(612) 938-9141
Sheila Lapp, Bemidji
(218) 751-1964
Rae Morgan, Maple Grove
(612) 425-7275
(612)
Nevada
Vernell Cocanour,
Carson Citv
(702) 882-3808/246-3569
Jana Leavitt, Las Vegas
(702) 452-4918
Janie Wilson,
Reno
(702) 827-6354
Minneapolis
Joanne Reinertson, Chanhassen
(612) 474-5769
New Jersey
Minneapolis
Patricia
(218)
Shough, Bemidji
751-8841/8716
Pat Tarara,
(612)
St.
Elaine Arpin, Robbinsville

(609)
259-3458
Elaine Brower, Pennington
Paul
293-1637
(609)
737-9467
Trenton
Sandra Criscuolo,
Mississippi
Mary Ann
West Orange
Fruge,
Oxford
(601) 234-6357
Anne Kellum, Ridgeland
(201)
736-1705
Newark
Thelma Gold, South Orange
(201)
(601) 856-4301
Jackson
Maxine Sanders, Jackson
762-1237
Newark
Ruth Mechur,
(201)
(601) 922-2413
Ft.
Lee
592-0352
Marilyn Scherfen, Adantic Highlands

(201) 291-3779
Michigan
Missouri
Marjorie Andreae, Pt. Huron
(313) 385-4631
Ilene Berger, Milford
(313) 685-8519
Billings
(406) 252-5826
Jaquelin Schluter,
Rumson
(201) 842-4120
LuAnn White
Ellis,
Seneca
(417) 776-8357
Martha Weinstein, Parsippany

(201) 335-7081
Carol Henry, Richmond

(816) 776-6366
Colleen Kliethermes, Columbia
(314) 449-0473
Martha Wilson, Hazelwood
(314) 739-6724
St. Louis
Marv Ellen Worlledge, Clavton
(314) 725-3972
Mornstown
*Detroit
Montana
Judi Lujan, Las Cruces
Sandra Lowden,
Grosse Pomte Park
(313) 886-0169
Carla Dean, Billings
Lesley Tucker, Albuquerque
Barbara Bogart, Delton

(616) 721-8880
Irene Bushavv, Ann Arbor
(313) 761-2210
Sue Forrest, Midland
(517) 839-0269
*Saginaw
Tina Franco, Birmingham
(313) 649-3828
New
Mexico
Peggy Balcomb. Albuquerque

(505)
344-7867
Carla Beasley, Alto

(505) 336-4352
(505) 522-8476
(406) 656-0539
205
(505) 821-1144
New
York
Sonya Bonnett, Baldvvinsville

(315) 638-8431
Jan Sylvester, Worthington

(614) 888-6610
Stephanie Garbon,
Mama
W.
Zalla, Cincinnati
(606) 586-7168
*Syracuse
Susan Demme, Orchard Park
(716) 674-5013
Oklahoma
Buffalo
Joyce Grillo, New York
(212) 686-6484
Kathv Halbower, New York
(212) 254-2151
Anne Runvou,
New
York
355-4143
(212)
Deborah
Sottile,
Fort
Ewen
(914) 331-0099
Cathy Stevens, Corning

(607) 936-8369
Ellen Storey,
New
York
(212) 570-6865
Kathenne Wood, PoJJghkeepsie

(914) 454-2625
"
Sue Andrews, Norman

(405) 360-7788
Rebecca Caves,
Oklahoma City
(405) 632-7318
Jo Dunham, Guymon
(405) 338-3232
Margaret Ghostbear, Tulsa
(918) 749-5997
Gerri Hutchinson, Thomas
(405) 661-2665
*Weatherford
Arlcne Maguire Johnson, Moore
(405) 799-7329
Oklahoma
City
Kaarcn Kelly,
North Carolina
Oklahoma City
Linda Cooper, Winston-Salem

(919) 748-0140
Janclle Neelv,
Everhart,
New
Bern
(919) 638-2786
Martha Koljonen, Charlotte

(704) 568-5551
Edmond
(405) 348-7677
Oklahoma
City
Judy Yancer, Duncan
(405) 252-9325
Lawton
Central
Ellen
PA
Grossman, Merion
(215) 664-6445
Philadelphia
Sally Horner, Erie
(814) 838-1756
Barbara Koch, Pittsburgh
(412) 766-8008
Helen Kuberik, Murrysville
(412) 327-7832
Pittsburgh
Janet Larkey, Pittsburgh

(412) 731-8558
M. Lorraine Nelson,
Kcnnett Square
(215) 444-0131
Marcy O'Brien, Warren
(814) 726-3314
N.W. PA
Judy
Peltz,
Holland
(215) 968-9422
Philadelphia
Meadville
(814) 724-2411
Erie
Roberta Revness, Holland
(215) 860-0370
Susan Williams, Somerset
(412) 593-2926
Peter Willms,
Jein-Faul Ncwiand, Raleigh

(919) 787-8644/6643
Betsy Powers, Charlotte
(704) 365-0998
Sharon Wells, Morehcad City
(919) 247-2557/726-9089
Bois
Jill Pettit,
(405) 632-1888
Nancy
Du
(814) 375-9558
(717)
Camp
Hill
761-6826
Harrisburg
Oregon
Ann
B. Holland, Portland
South Carolina
(503) 245-2813
Alice
Mane
Livingston, Pendleton
(503) 276-5722
North Dakota
Lin Marie, Portland
Roberta Herr, Williston

(701) 572-6477
Beth Lapp, Fargo
(701) 232-0082
Mary
Sara Patterson,
Columbia
(803) 776-2795
(503) 228-9246
Martin, Corvallis
Sigrid
Ozyp, West Linn
(503) 635-7681
Bil Fox,
Akron
(216) 644-1823
Sandra Freedle,
Maple Heights
(216) 475-6211
Vicki Donovan, Spearfish

(605) 642-4075
Anne Hughes, Sioux
Portland
Ohio
South Dakota
(503) 752-5210/753-2555
Jo Reimer, Portland
(503) 645-4175
Edith Smith, Portland
(503) 297-6706
Louise Wicks, Eugene
(503) 686-9780
(605)
Tennessee
Barbara Bogart, Memphis
(901) 276-2179
Mary Beth Johnson,
Maggie Hurd,
Pennsylvania
Cleveland Heights
(216) 321-5366
Lyra Lalosh, Cincinnati
(513) 381-2938
Jane Rogers, Davton
(513) 433-3674
Rebecca Alexy, Washington

(412) 222-0616/225-4553
Pittsburgh
Deborah Caruso, Washington
(412) 228-2408
Falls
339-0689
Clarksville
647-2132
Judy McLellan, Germantown
(901) 754-4358
(615)
206
Memphis
Linda Sulcer, Marion,
(901) 276-2179
Memphis
AR
Ruth Constant. Victoria
Fav Wilson, Johnson City

(615)929-1933
*E. Border
(512) 578-1801
Terry Davis. San Antonio

(5i2) 826-3233/0939
Judi Doherty. San Antonio
(512) 684-2421
Sandi Doolan. San Antonio
(512) 657-3827
Texas iXortheastern)
Janna Beattv, Waco
(817) 77615369
Lenore Bransford, Hurst
(817) 267-1761
*Ft.
Ann Hudson.
Virginia
(713) 578-5918
Marv Beth
Mason
Ince.
(915) 258-4484
(817) 732^2 170
Dorothy Campbell, Texarkana
Austin
Kelly Lindsev, Austin
(214) 792-0657
Keiko Couch, Ft. Worth

(817) 923-9837
Gwen McMurrv,
Carrizo Springs
(512) 875-3388
Robin
(817) 483-2299
Worth-Dallas
Tisha Knudson. Gainesville
(817) 665-1019
Houston
(713) 988-1179
*Ft.
Dorothy Lane. Graham
Pascal,
Carol Van Pelt, Houston

(713) 465-6076
Sandra Williams, Houston

(713) 973-6320
(81 7) 549-1 428

Marilyn Murphy. Dallas
(214) 553-9658
Marsha Newman. Mineola
(214) 569-9643
Texas (Western)
JoAnn Attawav. Quanah
Tyler
(817) 663-2527
Julianne Parazo, Carrollton
Velm
(214) 245-2688
Dallas
Marsha Rawlins, Dallas
Shirlvn Christian, Odessa

(915) 362-9678
Diane Cole, Abilene
(915) 698-7510
(214) 526-6813
(214) 867-8444
Lynne
Dallas
Ruth Rutchik-Pack, Dallas
Griffith,
J.
Lubbock
Victoria Moser. Amarillo
(817) 738-8324
(806) 353-6567
Wynell Noelke, San Angelo
Corpus
Christi
(512) 241-6788
Jo Ellvn Bernardin, Houston

(713) 988-2835
Linda Best, The Woodlands
(713) 367-2965
Houston
Jeannine Cassell, Houston
(713) 977-2022
Ann
Connelly. Houston
(713) 370-0218/739-0005
Hampton
Susan Cook, Reston
(703) 8604)910
Arlington
Jackie Dve. Ft. Lee
(804)
733-5763
Linda Gobbi. Richmond

(804) 285-8129
Sherri Benton Hargis. Blacksburg
(703) 953-2021
Marilyn Hearn, Virginia Beach
(804) 425-7868
Caryl Krannich. Manassas

(703) 361-7300
Arlington
Bonnie Dean Miller. Berryville

(703) 955-2676
(703) 636-6327
Kathleen Skretvedt. Richmond
(804) 358-4141
Richmond
Susan Straight. Vienna
(703) 938-4445
Arlington
(915) 653-3856
Texas (Southeastern)
Shirley Anslinger,
Renee Benton. Bena

(804) 877-9666/642-6257
(703) 786-4251
(9i5) 698-2831
Worth
Norfolk
Petsv Rudacille. Front Royal
Annette McClov, Morse

(806) 878-3474
Marv Mathieson, Abilene
361-4085
Barnes. Virginia Beach
425-0926
Carrie Rehberg. Fredericksburg
Midland
J. Love,
(915) 697-0838
Odessa
Dallas
Marcy Weil, Dallas
Norfolk
Marv Jane
Claudine Lee, Richmond

(804) 262-6292
(806) 797-2422
(214) 661-8353
Donna Smith,
Highland Village
(214) 436-0950
Sally Wilder. Ft.
Barton, Canadian
(806) 658-4481
Lou Robbins. Piano
Rebecca Banis, Chesapeake

(804) 465-0646
(804)
(512) 339-7902
Leslie Hill, Arlington
(214)
Provo
Deborah Huff. Katv
Worth
Ft.
(801) 292-553(1
Faye Washburn. Alpine

(801) 756-5732
Victoria
(512) 575-5664
Worth
Kathrvn Brvan,
Darlene Gregersen.
North Salt Lake
Washinj^ton,
Utah
Brenda Alcorn,
Salt
Lake City
(801) 968-6181
Toni Bahen.
Orem
(801) 225-9692
Salt Lake City

Cheryl Crowlev, Farmington
(801) 451-5353
D.C.
Nancy Baglev
(202)
Trina
822-9195
Duncan
(202) 362-08fK)
JoAnne Nicholson
(202) 293-9175
Mimi Wolford
(202) 362-0532
Salt Lake City
207
Washitif^ton
Wyominj^
England
Daphne Lindsay, Bcllingham
Lynne Applegate, Cheyenne
Phyllis
(206)676-1535
Colleen Marie, Bellinghani
(206) 734-0404
Shannon O'Leary, Seattle
(206) 325-2904
Linda Scarvie, Auburn
(206) 833-6384
(307) 638-9498
Cherry Manion, Jackson

(307) 733-4792
Daphene Minter, Riverton

(307) 856-2581
*Casper
(01)
Quasha, London
235-5677
France
Mary Beth
(01)
Behrcnt, Paris
527-6816
Kay Stewart, Issaquah

(206) 641-1483
Janice
Australia
Indonesia
[acqueline Ainsworth
Sydney. N.S.W.
231-6500
Barbara Rucker, Jakarta

715-280
Van Eaton,
Woodinviile
(206) 483-2660
Paula Wilson, Seattle
(206) 643-5168
Nancv Uchvtil Annett,

W.A.
Port Hedland,
(091) 73 1197
West
Virjîiiia
See Neighboring States
Diane Humphreys
Canberra, A.C.T.
(062) 81 2460
Yvonne McMahon,
Westleigh, N.S.W.
Wisconsin
875-1032
Israel
Nina Tronstein, Jerusalem

(02)
719-691/240-077
Japan
Elaine Barron,
Okinawa
09893-5-2534
Elaine Feder,
Oconomowoc
Ardith Lawson-Cipar, Verona

(608) 836-8401
*Madison
Rosemary Liovd, Neenah
(414) 725-8854
Susan Kaul Moeschberger,
Milwaukee
(414) 442-3551
Yvonne
Staacke,
North Lake
(414) 966-2381
*Milwaukee
Joan Stone, Dousman
(414) 392-9604
*Milwaukee
Debbie Young,
Clintonville
(715) 823-5390
Debbi Krafft,
Yokota Air Base
Canada
(414) 567-4963
(0425) 52-2511, Ext. 4898
Paula L. Boer, Vancouver

British
Columbia
266-6833
Carolyn Correia,
Manotick, Ontario
(613) 692-4473
Gail Johnson,
Ottawa, Ontario
(613) 236-2777
Philippines
(604)
Backie Celdran, Makati

817-1005
Patricia Dale Eyre, Manila
842-3486
Deborah Kcrfoot
Edmonton, Alberta
Singapore
(403) 429-3498
Joanna Haak
468-0392
Rosalind Logue,
Toronto, Ontario
(416) 485-7799
208
Gisel Potts
469-86056
Index
Body
All-one-color looks, see
Monotone
looks
All-weather coats, 171-72
Attache cases
for Contrast color type, 146-47
for Gentle color type, 85
color, 3, 7, 12, 24, 199
determination of, 26-28

Bright clarity, 34, 199
for Light-Bright color type. 109-1(1

for
for Light-Bright color type. 109
Brown
Browns
for Light-Bright color type, 122-23
Muted
color type, 73-74

for
Muted
Brunettes,
color type, 67
16
4,
Burgundy, 40
for Contrast color type, 14142
Bargains, 192
for Gentle color type,
determination
22
16-21
3, 6,
of,
93-94
for Light-Bright color type,
for
Muted
119-20
color type, 69-70
See also Contrast color type; Gentle

type;
Muted
176
Color accents, 197, 200

Color breaks, 195-97, 200
Color families, 2(X)
Color types, 200
Complimentary colors, 28-29. 2(H-2nl

Conglomeration collection, 191
Contrast color type,
11,
6,
133-34
contrast levels for, 134-36
Camel
determination
of,
down
17-20
by, 178
for Contrast color type, 14()-41
dressing
for Gentle color type. 89-90
earthy looks for,' 181-82
for Light-Bright color type. 117-18
ethereal look for, 179-80

evening wear for. 148-49
fabric colors and weights
full-figured, 42-44
for
Muted
color type, 62. 68
for
Muted
color type, 6465
Best color families, 24
Camouflaging
Black, 31-32
Capsule wardrobe, 159-74

case study, 169-70
88-89
132-55
capsule wardrobe for, 168

color accents for, 197
color type
4<)
176-78
of,
as self-motivator,
clarities for. 34. 35.
color type; Light-Bright color

Beige,
See also Furs
See also Basic color types
Balanced look, 41. 44

Basic color types,
color type. 60-61
Color
impact on others
hair. 16
for Gentle color type, 97-98
for
Muted
Coats. 171-74
figure faults, 40-41
for,
furs for, 149
casual, 174
glasses for, 148
coats in, 171-74
hair color for. 54. 155
handbags and attache cases
Black skin tones. 12

Blacking out. 199
as headless person.
Blended look, 36-37

Blonds, 4, 15, 5455
Blouses, 5, 163-64
for

for
Muted
color type, 63-64
Blush, 52
for Gentle color type. 102
for
Muted
color type, 77
for Light-Bright color type, 167
Muted
color type, 165
working, 161-65
Casual wardrobe, 174
Caucasian skin tones, 12
Cheeks, color for. see Blush
Children, 50
Clarities. 19. 25-26, 34, 199-200
for
209
142-43
for.
146-47
194
insignificant look on, 194
jewelry
makeup
for,
for,
neutrals for,
patterns for,
145-46
149-55
136-42
143-44
power dressing
for,
188
shoes for, 147-48
showstopper look
for,
184
universally enhancing colors and. 39
Contrast levels, 36-38, 2(K)-201

furs for, 100
hair coloring for,
for
Muted
106-7
color type, 61-62
for,
97-98
as headless person, 194
universally enhancing, 39
Cross-color types,
98-99
glasses for,
Light-Bright color type. 6, 11, 108-31

clarities for, 34, 35, 109-10
jewelry
3, 21
makeup
for,
for,
neutrals for,
color breaks for, 196
95-96
100-105
87-94
determination of 17-21
dressing down by, 178
earthy look for, 181-82
patterns for, 95
Dark
Dark
neutrals,
31-32
power dressing
values, 35
Designs,
shoes
for,
for,
187-88
98
evening wear
showstopper look for, 184

universally enhancing colors and, 39
see Patterns
"Dress for success" theory, 4-5

Dressing down, 177-78
and weights
full-figured, 42-43
furs for, 124-25
glasses for, 123-24
Gentle/Light-Bright color type, 21, 34
Gentle-Muted color
124
for,
fabric textures
type, 21
Glasses
Earthy looks, 180-82

Ethereal looks, 179-80
Evening wear
makeup and, 53
for Muted color
jewelry
99-100
for
Muted
Eye color, 12, 27-28

Eye makeup
Muted
see
power dressing
Muted
color type, 65-66
Glasses
188
for,
showstopper look for, 182, 184-85

universally enhancing colors and, 39
hair, 4, 16
Green
color type, 78-79
patterns for,
shoes for, 123
coloring, 56
for
neutrals for,
Gray
for,
for
Light-Bright/Contrast color type, 34

Light values, 35
Lip color, 12, 26, 50-51
for
Muted
122-23
121-22
125-30
112-20
120-21
for,
makeup
type, 75
for,
194
as headless person,
color type, 75-76
Eyeglass frames,
98-99
Gray, 30-31
120
hair coloring for, 131
for,
color type, 70
for
Muted
color type, 78
Fabric textures and weights

for Contrast color type,
142-43

for
Muted
Hair color,
color type, 70-71
4,
12
11,
Makeup, 45-53
changing, 53-56
for cheeks, 52
of children, 50
determination of. 15-16
for suits, 162-63
Figure faults, camouflaging, 40-41

Foundation, 45-49

for
Muted
color type, 77
Muted
Handbags
for
48-49
toner under, 4748
Fragile looks, 179-80
Full-figured wo'men, 41-44
for sun tan,
color type, 81-82
for
color type, 73-74

for
Muted
color type, 76
125-30
50-52
Muted
Monotone
Headless person look, 193-94

Heavier women, 4144
Highlights, 15-16

for lips,
Muted
100-105
glasses and, 53
Medium
for

Furs
foundation, 45-49
color type, 76-81
37-38
contrast,
looks, 42
for dressing
for
Muted
Mood
Muted
down, 178
color type, 62
dressing, 179-88
color type,
11,
6,
59-83

clarity for, 34, 35,
60-61
Image consultants,
Gentle color type. 6, 11, 84-107
clarities for, 34, 35, 85
full-figured, 42
of,
down
17-20
Intense clarity, 34, 199
earthy look for, 181
by, 178
evening wear
75-76
and weights
for,
fabric textures
determination of 17-21
dressing down by, 178
earthy looks for, 181
evening wear for, 99-100
and weights
determination
dressing
fabric textures
Insignificant look, 194
full-figured, 42
for,
94-95
Jackets, 173-74
furs for,
Jewelery
for Muted color type, 71-72
glasses for, 75
210
76
hair coloring and, 54

as headless person,
194
jewelry
for,
71-72
for,
70-71
Power
Muted color type (continued)

makeup for, 76-81
neutrals for, 62-70
Pure pigment colors, 34

Pure White Test, 17
Purple
shades of 28
patterns for, 71
power dressing
for,
for, 74-75
showstopper look
187
shoes
183-84
for,
dressing, 185-88
Prints, see Patterns
21,
34
Toned-down
clarity, 34,
200

Muted
for
color type, 60
Toners, 47-48
universally enhancing colors and, 39, 40
Muted/Contrast color type,
Tan, makeup and, 48-49
Tops
for color breaks, 195-96
Raincoats, 171-72
Redheads,
Navy
4,
body color and, 26-27
for lip color, 50-52
shades of 33
Muted
color type, 66
Neck
accessories, 163, 164
for color breaks,
195-96
Neutrals, 192-93
136-42
Reverse frosting, 56
Rust
dark, 31-32
Muted
power
112-20
color type, 62-70
Shades, 25-26, 33-34, 201
Shoes
Off-whites, 30, 39
Muted
for
color type, 62
Orange, 28-29
Overpowering
Pastels,
colors, 201
35
contrasts with, 36-37
Muted
color type, 74-75
for working wardrobe, 164

Shopping, 197-98
Showstopper looks, 182-85
Skin tone, 3, 11-12
aging and, 49-50
determination of, 12-15
foundation and, 45-49
Soft contrast, 36-37
Stripes, vertical, 43
Patterns
Strong contrast, 36
Subdued

for
Muted
size of,
color type, 71
43-44
Universal Skin-Tone Chart,
13,
14
Universally enhancing colors, 38-40
clarity, 34,
for
Muted
for
Harmony
Chart, 25
Personal color spectrum, 3
W
Wardrobe mistakes, 191-94
salvaging, 195-98
Wardrobe planning,
see
Capsule wardrobe
White, 29-30, 201

for
Muted
200
color type, 60
tan,
141-42
93-94
19-20
Woman-Across-the-Room Test, 17-20
Wool coats, 172-73
Working wardrobe, 161-65
dressing, 186
48-49
Yellow, eye color and, 28
2U
universally enhancing, 39-40
tops to wear with, 163-64
Sun
18-
Wine
161-63
power
color type, 60, 69
Suits, 4-5,
for suits, 162
Personal Color
Universal color principles, 33-35
Seasonal colors, 4
dressing, 186
O
for
Underpowering colors, 201

Uniform dressing, 193
Vertical stripes, 43
for
163-64
Value of colors, 35, 201

contrast of, 36-38
87-94
gray, 31-32
for
suits,
Reds
for
wear with
to
15
NOW, THE REVOLUTIONARY COLOR 1
WARDROBE AND MAKEUP PROGRAM

TEACHES YOU HOW TO DISCOVER
YOUR OWN BEST COLORS!
woman
unique, with a personal spectrum ot colors that will make her look
It's time to break free of systems that insist you must be one of four
seasons or three times of day, by using the Color 1 concept to look more wonderful
than you ever dreamed possible!
Have you always believed you couldn't wear red? Or green? Or purple? That's
because you haven't yet discovered your "best" red, the right green, the purple that will
Every
is
absolutely terrific.
truly flatter y<:;/^. The Color Wardrobe and Makeup Program is based on twenty years
of research and success around the world, and will show you how to use the full spectrum
of colors to be the best you can be. The secret is in choosing those shades, values, and
intensities of color that blend or contrast perfectly with your own body colors, and then
combining them in just the right way. Using charts and color photographs to illustrate the
system, this book teaches you:
1
HOW TO CREATE AN INDIVIDUAL COLOR PROFILE AND COORDINATE

WARDROBE COLORS WITH THOSE OF YOUR SKIN, HAIR, EYES,
AND LIPS.
HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR "BEST COLORS EVERY WOMAN HAS AT LEAST
FOURTEEN, AND SOME HAVE MANY MORE.
WHY EVERY WOMAN CAN BE ANY "S*EASON " IF YOU WANT AN AUTUMN
LOOK, YOU CAN HAVE IT!
HOW TO CHOOSE MAKEUP JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES THAT
COMPLIMENT YOUR COLORING.
WHY THE PRINTS AND PATTERNS THAT LOOK BEST ON YOU
ARE DETERMINED BY YOUR COLOR TYPE ANDNOrBY
YOUR BODY SHAPE OR HEIGHT
WHY COMBINING COLORS IS THE WAY TO ENHANCE EVERY FIGURE TYPE.
HOW TO SALVAGE THE "WRONG COLOR CHOICES IN YOUR CLOSET
BY USING THE RIGHT COLOR ACCENTS.
HOW COLOR CAN BE USED AS A TOOL IN YOUR QUEST OF CAREER
OR PERSONAL SUCCESS. AND MUCH, MUCH MORE.
"
"
JOANNE NICHOLSON
and
JUDY LEWIS-CRUM.
I the
founders of
1 Associates
Color
coLor
I

Color Wonderful: The Revolutionary Color 1 Associates Wardrobe A

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COLOR

COLOR 1THE ONLY COLOR SYSTEM THAT

JOANNE NICHOLSON & JUDY LEWIS-CRUM

Digitized by the Internet Archive

IVhicli oj the following statcificiits arc true?

All blue-eyed blondes tend to look

Heavy women should never wear

when you have

There should be one "pure" white blouse

Bright colors are not

Large jewelry looks best on large

as "tasteful" as neutral tones.

60 years old and older look prettier wearing

dusty, and pastel colors rather than bright or clear

color that every

can wear enhancingly.

you have answered "true" to any of these statements,

it shows you how to

explodes these and other myths, as

JoAnne Nicholson and Judy Lewis-Crum

INC., the most

comprehensive personalized color service in the world,

by more than four hundred consultants. The authors

have combined their professional fashion experience, along

Anne Nicholson and Judy Lewis-Crum maintain

speaking schedule throughout the United States and

with Jacqueline Thompson

^^ TORONTO NEW YORK

dedicate this hook to

throughout the world.

COLOR ASSOCIA TES,

/A'C. and the lo^o consisting of

The models appearing

All rights reserved.

to variations in print runs, the color

swatches in the insert

All rights reserved.

1986 hyJoAniie Sicholson and Judy Lewis-Cnim.

Color insert designed by Art Patrol.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

United States and Canada

consisting oj the words

by Bantam Books. Inc. Its trademark,

U.S. Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries.

PKINTEl) IN THE UNITED ST.^TES OF AMERICA

acknowledge the contribution of our

Color 1 associates to the creation of this book.

the world, are responsible for the continuing excellence of

Your hard work, your personal

achievements, and your concern for your clients are

You have been

for unprecedented changes in the lives and looks of tens

appreciate you, thank you, and love you.

could not have brought our Color

without the help of our master photographer, Michael

Perham, and our very talented makeup artist and hair

Our "models" were our

consultants and clients. These

devoted generous portions of

show you some of

coloring that exist around the globe, and

debt of gratitude to our

respected personal color charting service in the world.