GARDENING
newsletter of the monterey bay master gardeners
Rose Care in the Summer Garden
What a different winter and spring
season we have had this year here on
the Central Coast of California! There
was rain, rain, hail, and then more rain
ever since January and very few days
of actual sunshine. Whenever the rain
let up for more than two days I could
hear weed eaters and riding lawn
mowers being used to cut down the
very healthy crop of plants we consider
“weeds” around my neighborhood – it
was quite a winter and spring. It is
now late April and I am still patiently
waiting for spring to arrive!
My roses have been very late this
year – the Monterey Bay Rose Society
cancelled their annual rose show this
year because no one had any roses to
enter. Other rose societies have done
the same. At the time of this writing I
am watching some of my roses bloom
but most are just beginning to show new
growth or form buds. I am looking
forward to seeing and smelling some
spectacular flowers in the next couple of
months.
By this time (mid/late April) most of
us have pruned our roses and fertilized
at least twice to get our plants off to a
good start. By late May or June and
even into early July, most of our one
Rose Care in the Summer Garden
Rice Flower
A Pond for All Reasons
MBMG Class of 2006 in Action
Container Watering Tips
Pruning Japanese Maples
Garden Faire Update
Al’s Corner
Book Review
ON THE EDGE
Number 118 June-July 2006
time bloomers will have done their
thing and the shrubs and hybrid teas
will have put on their first flush and the
first hips of the season will be forming.
If we want more flowers from our roses
that bloom more than one time
(remontant) a year, then we need to take
time to deadhead, fertilize, mulch,
water, and keep our plants clean.
Deadheading
Some roses are self-cleaning in that
they shed their spent flowers as new
buds are formed. Many of the Noisettes
are like this and do not require too much
pruning during the growing season.
However, most roses will benefit from
“deadheading” or removing the spent
flowers as they fade and their petals
drop. On recently planted roses (first
year plants) trim back the flower heads
by Paul McCollum, MG ‘04
to the first or second 3-leafed node so
that the plant will have more foliage to
support growth. On more established
roses cut back to the first or second 5-
leafed node that faces in the direction
you want the new shoot to grow –
generally this means an outward facing
node so as not to inhibit air circulation
to the center of the plant. One of the
Consulting Rosarians from the
Monterey Bay Rose Society tells me
that she will cut back some (not all)
branches in late July to less than this in
order to encourage strong well formed
branches and better flowers for the
Santa Cruz County Fair in September –
something to consider if you plan on
entering your roses in the fair this year.
Always use a clean sharp clipper to
deadhead your plants. Try spraying a
little alcohol on the blades after cutting
each plant. Deadhead after each round
of bloom. If you have a great number of
roses, this can become an everyday task
as you walk around enjoying your
garden. If one time bloomers are
deadheaded and pruned after they
bloom for the season, they will reward
you with more abundant blooms and a
better looking plant the following
season.
Fertilizing
Roses do not have to be fertilized to
survive. They will grow and make
flowers. However, if your goal is to
have strong, vigorous plants that
produce great disease free leaves and
large flowers with the best fragrance,
then feeding your soil is of paramount
importance. The three main nutrients
are nitrogen, phosphorus, and
potassium. There are many chemical
continued on page two—
2 MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006

—continued from page one My opinion is that good quality Rainwater is PH neutral. City water
homemade or commercial compost and well water in our area is alkaline
inorganic fertilizers on the market today mixed with worm castings, with only a because our soil tends to be alkaline.
that do a good job. There are a couple of few exceptions, is just about all the Keep in mind that the PH of the water
things to remember if you use these fertilizer any plant needs. Properly made will affect the Ph of the soil and most
formulations on your roses. compost tea (brewed with catalyst and roses like a PH of about 6.5. Water your
oxygen for a specific time at a specific roses the day before applying fertilizer
1. Read the label carefully! Look for temperature) and used as a soil drench or and just after applying the fertilizer. The
the type of nitrogen that is used. If urea foliar spray is also a complete fertilizer. general rule for roses is to water at a rate
is the nitrogen source, know that it is the of about 1” to 2” of water per week.
least readily available for the rose to use. I much prefer organic methods to Avoid stressing your roses by being
In order to be used it must be acted upon chemical. However, whatever way you consistent with your watering schedule.
by the fungus and bacteria in the soil. decide to fertilize a good program would Rose roots extend 18” to 24” deep and
Nitrate nitrogen if the most available be to apply your fertilizer just after just past the outer most leaves or drip
followed by ammoniacal nitrogen. pruning (January/February), again in line. Watering can be accomplished by
April, then after deadheading and again using a hose, a soaker hose, or drip
2. When using inorganic, water in mid-summer but no later than mid to irrigation. It is best to water early in the
soluble fertilizers it must be remembered late September. Remember that a little
day so that the plant can dry out during
that watering your plants is absolutely each time is better than a lot all at one the day. Watering late in the day creates
necessary. I have been told that after time. a perfect environment for spreading
applying water soluble fertilizer one
disease.
needs to water, wait a day or two, and Mulch
water again, and repeat this regimen for Cleanliness
at least a couple of weeks. Roses will benefit with mulching
during the summer months. Mulch with In order to keep down disease and
It also should be remembered that almost any organic material. However, if unwanted insects you should keep your
many of these fertilizers (not all of them) compost is used as a mulch, it will not roses clean. Remove any fallen leaves
are only made up of NPK without any of rob the soil of nitrogen as will wood and remove any diseased leaves. If
the trace elements. So, Nitrogen (N) is chips, grass clippings, leaves, straw, problems develop like black spot,
going to stimulate growth and produce newspaper, or other unprocessed organic mildew, or rust, remove the affected
dark healthy foliage. Phosphorus (P) materials. Mulch should be applied after parts and spray with Neem Oil or Rose
stimulates and promotes a healthy root the rain stops and the soil has heated a Guard. Most of us have home remedies
system and enhances flowering. little. May would have been a good time that work for us so use what is
Potassium (K) is essential for to start but it is still not too late. Apply successful for you. My experience is that
photosynthesis and helps the plant store mulch 3” to 4” thick (it will shrink) and a healthy plant tends to stay healthy.
nutrients. It also intensifies bloom color do not dig it into the soil. Mulch is
and promotes growth. mulch if it remains on top of the soil – if Endnote
it is incorporated into the soil it becomes
Trace elements for roses include This is by no means an exhaustive
fertilizer. Compost used as mulch acts as
sulfur for adjusting the PH of the soil, study on rose care so if there are any
a slow release fertilizer as it melts into
calcium for helping to build strong cell the soil from the bottom. Keep in mind questions please feel free to call me or e-
walls, and magnesium which helps mail me at pulpitpaul@Hughes.net.
that by applying compost as a mulch this
transport the nutrients. Trace elements Also, if you have techniques that may
season you are helping to create the
such as manganese, boron, zinc, copper, garden soil for next season. Every year have worked for you please share them.
molybdenum, iron, and chlorine are also this is done will make the soil better and After all, our whole purpose as Master
required for optimum growth and are Gardeners is to learn and pass on
better.
generally already in the soil and in most knowledge. Have a great season!
city and well water. Water
References:
Organic fertilizers include blood meal Roses will survive without fertilizer
but not without water. They are Pacific Horticulture: April/May/June
(12-0-0), bone meal (6-12-0), cottonseed
reasonably drought tolerant and with a 2006
meal (7-3-2). Those best used in warm
The Bay Rose, Joe Truskot, Editor, April
soils are fish emulsion (5-1-1), seaweed dust mulch will last longer. However,
roses do better with regular moisture – 2006, MBRS
extract (9-2-7), and manures such as
Rose Primer by Orin Martin 2005
cow, horse, pig, poultry, worm castings, especially if high quality flowers are the
goal. All water is not the same. Vintage Gardens Catalog, 2000 edition
rabbit, and bat guano.
Î
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006 3

Rice Flower by Bonnie Pond, MG ‘02

A native of coastal The rice flower is planted in a drought tolerant area and
Queensland and New South exposed to the full force of the wind. Natural growing
Wales, Australia, the rice requirements are fertile, well-drained soil, or mound
flower is an upright, planting if the ground has a lot of clay, and regular watering;
perennial, multi-branched, it dislikes wet feet. The plant is subject to Phytophthora and
and woody shrub. Formerly nematodes. For best growth, plants should be pinched back
known as Helichrysum when young to encourage a low bushy shape.
diomifolius, the rice flower
is in the Asteraceae family. The rice flower is fast becoming a staple of florist shops
There are many types but everywhere. It has a long vase life and can be used as filler
they fall into two main in either fresh or dried form. In the commercial flower
groups: broad leaf, usually market it is called rice flower everlasting. The flowers were
associated with higher harvested in the wild until the late 1980’s. It is now widely
rainfall areas, and narrow cultivated in Australia and the United States. Cultivars have
leaf types. It is the narrow been created that will grow in specific conditions and have
leaf type that is cultivated longer stems with more flowers.
for the cut flower market.
Propagation is by stem cutting. Roots take 5 to 8 weeks
The name comes from the Greek “ozo” meaning smell and
to develop. I have some stem cuttings started and will be
“thamnos” meaning shrub.
following their progress. Plants can be grown from seed
but they are not always true to the parent.
The rice flower plant in my garden has fine narrow green
leaves, pink flowers, and is five feet tall by three feet wide. This plant is a nice addition to my garden and adds
Blossoms occur at the ends of branches most of the year in something special to flower arrangements. Essential oils are
dense clusters of creamy to dark pink that gradually turn also made from the rice plant.
white.
Plant History: The popularity of the rice flower is due to
the efforts of Graham and Esther Cook. They looked at
native flowers of their area of Queensland to see what they
could grow for the cut flower market. After many trials they
propagated a fast growing plant that was drought tolerant
and tolerant of salty water. In 1988 they did their first
commercial plantings. Their most popular cultivars are
‘Cooks Snow White’ and ‘Cooks Tall Pink’ which were
released in 1993. Î

Helichrysum diomifolius, the rice flower

4 MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î
A Pond for All Reasons
It all started one nice sunny weekend
when my son and daughter-in-law were
visiting. Our daughter-in-law, Shyla,
said, as she was looking at our dry
creek bed, “That would be a good place
for a pond”. I thought about that and
realized she was right. Of course, we
had to research this pond thing we were
getting into. We found some good
books to use for the basics. We decided
the pond would be in the smallish size
range, about 7’ by 5’. And it should be
deep enough so that raccoons would
have to swim to get to the fish. (I had
heard that raccoons couldn’t swim and
eat at the same time. I have since found
that idea questionable.) We wanted
plants around the sides and a waterfall
at the end. In order to do that, there
needed to be “benches” left in the dirt
where the plants would sit.
So, we’re (I’m using the royal “we”
here) ready to start digging. We moved
all the dry creek rocks and saved them
for later. I was able to convince my
husband to do the digging. Oli (the
husband/digger) marked out a kind of
irregular oval with some powdered
fertilizer, and started digging. He dug
out the middle and end by the waterfall
area to about three feet and left
“benches” around the other end and
sides down to about 12” deep.
Now, the really careful studying
happens. Of course, we would have to
seal the bottom and sides with some
kind of plastic liner. We could have
gotten it on-line, but it’s heavy and the
shipping costs would be astronomical.
We found some good 80 mil. pond liner
at Home Depot for a reasonable price.
There needed to be some kind of
cushion under it, to keep any rocks
from puncturing the liner from the
bottom. We had some old carpet pieces
that would fit and used that in the
“pond”, soft side up.
Next, we wrestled that thick heavy
piece of liner into place, and realized
that there had to be a lot of tucks in it to
get it to fit. At the time I didn’t like
that, but now, years later, I can’t even
see them. It’s very important to get the
top of the pond level all the away
around.
June-July 2006
by Jan Olafsson, MG ‘01
We left about two feet of liner on
the ground around the perimeter and
started piling our first stones on the
edge. After the first rows of stones
were in place, we folded the liner back
over them and piled the second row of
stones over them, cutting the extra liner
so it wouldn’t be seen. The idea here is,
that when (not if) the pond overflows, it
won’t overflow over the sides and seep
under the liner and cause it to sag in
that one spot. In our case, the dry creek
bed has a drain in the end. We made the
pond so that end is slightly lower than
the rest of the sides. When it rains a lot,
the surplus water will drain out that end
and flow down the drain and around the
house and down the hill in back.
Now, we’re ready for the filter and
pump. If you plan to have plants and/or
fish, you have to have a filter as well as
a pump. We started too small. We got a
filter and pump from Beckett and it
worked for a while, but a couple of
times in January, up to my knees
cleaning out that filter, I was ready for
something else. (That water is cold in
January!) That first filter was a plastic
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î
box about the size of a shoebox. In
there was the pump, some plastic balls
with many sides and some sponge-like
sheets. It was much like a big aquarium
filter, but it was placed in the bottom of
the pond and had to be removed to
clean it—often. Clearly, it was too
small.
I wanted a filter that was out of the
pond so it’s easier to clean and
maintain. We looked at the bio-filter
units that are for sale and decided we
could make a similar thing for much
cheaper. There are a lot of places that
have pond filter supplies, including
most big pet stores. We got our new
pump from Pet Pals in Soquel. A 24”
square green plastic planter was
modified for a bio-filter that has
worked very well for years now. We’ve
only had to clean it out about once a
year. Now the pump is in the pond and
the filter is outside near the waterfall.
Oli drilled two holes in the planter box
near the top to accommodate PVC
piping to the pond. (He used marine
fittings to go through the sides of the
planter.) The water from the pond
Pond Plant Possibilities
Submerged/Oxygenating Plants
Anacharis (Egeria densa)
Bacopa (Bacopa caroliniana)
Cabomba, Purple (Cabomba
pulcherrima)
Foxtail (Myriophyllum heterophyllum)
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
Jungle Val (Vallisneria americana)
Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri)
Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata
Floating Plants
Azolla - water fern (Azolla caroliniana)
Duckweed (Lemna minor)
Mosaic Plant (Ludwigia sedioides)
Parrot's Feather (Myriophyllum aquaticum)
Salvinia - Floating Moss (Salvinia minima)
Sensitive Plant (Neptunia oleracea)
Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)
Lotus Plants
Chawan Basu - Nelumbo (white with pink
tips)
Double Rose - Nelumbo (double - rose/pink)
Momo Botan - dwarf - Nelumbo (pink)
Mrs. Perry D. Slocum - N. nucifera
(changeable)
Perry's Giant Sunburst - N. nucifera (yellow)
Red Scarf - N. nucifera (red)
June-July 2006
comes over the top and goes to the
bottom of the filter box. He put a
plastic grate at the bottom of the box
and filled the space above with 2”
pieces of PVC pipe. This provides
many surfaces for bacteria to cling to
and clean the water. Above this, are
two layers of barley mat, (get at any
pond supply store), and about 2” of
lava rock. The two holes are above all
this and collect the filtered water and
send it back to the pond. He put two
hoses here to make a sheet of water
coming over the waterfall. (You could
use only one, as well.) I put a sheet of
shade fabric over the planter to keep
the leaves out of the filter.
The waterfall consists mostly of
bigger rocks piled so there is a space
for the hoses running from the filter
under the top rock. You have to play
around with the sound a bit. We bought
a flat piece of slate to get the “fall” just
right.
For fish, we got a dozen goldfish
(very cheap) and some mosquito fish
(free) and we still have many left. I
can’t say how many because most of
the time I can’t see them all. In the
beginning, we were losing fish to
raccoons and/or kingfishers. I built a
little shelter that spans the gap between
the “shelves” out of PVC pipe and
shade cloth. It’s a place the fish can get
5
away from the predators and be safe.
Lately, I’ve found that mousetraps set
around the pond discourage the
raccoons. They get “snapped”, don’t
like it, and go elsewhere.
It’s nice to have tall plants in your
pond, but where we are, the wind will
sometimes blow them over (or the
raccoons will have what I call “pool
parties” and knock them over). To
solve this, I put big rocks in the bottom
of an oversized pot when I re-pot them.
In the case of my papyrus, I used bricks
in the bottom. I bought about three
water lilies and discovered you have to
divide them to keep them blooming.
So, in the spring, I try to pull them out
and divide them. This was pretty scary
the first time, considering the cost of
the first ones, but it worked out very
well and I was able to contribute some
to the Master Gardeners plant sale.
The hummingbirds and other birds
use the waterfall to drink and bathe.
We love the sound of the gently falling
water. All in all, it’s been a fun and
challenging project my daughter-in-law
came up with. And now she has a pond
in her front yard too!
References:
Ortho’s All About Garden Pools and
Fountains, Meredith Books;
The Pond Doctor, by Helen Nash,
Sterling Books. Î
6 MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006

The MBMG Class of 2006 In Action by Christina Kriedt, MG ‘06

The Class of 2006 is

comprised of
enthusiastic, engaged,
interesting people. We
have thoroughly
enjoyed the process
and look forward to
our continued growth
as Master Gardeners.
About half of the class
is represented here.

Congratulations to Silver and

Gold Badge Recipients!
Silver: Gold:
Joan McLeod Mertz ‘99 Paul McCollum ‘04
Martye Lumpkin ‘01
Gigi Tacheny ‘01
Leora Worthington ‘03
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006
Container Watering Tips
Gardening in containers is a great option for those who have
restricted space, limited physical mobility, no soil, or – let’s face
it – control issues. Unlike planting in the ground, the use of
containers allows one to cater to the specific needs of fussy plants
such as those that are acid loving or others that require perfect
drainage. I love that containers can be moved around on a whim,
even indoors for the winter. My orchids and Ficus benjamina
don’t know where they belong they are moved so often.
The size, color, and composition of the container, placement,
drainage holes, and plant choices are all important considerations.
But as an avid hand-watering container gardener, one of the
biggest challenges I face is keeping the potting medium • Double potting can mitigate moisture loss and keep the root zone
somewhere between boggy and impermeably rock-hard. Here are a
few tips, some that I learned by trial and error and others gleaned
from the Internet:
• Choose a commercial or homemade planting medium that is
mixed specifically for containers with lots of water-retaining
organic material. Some media will be difficult to wet when they
become very dry and will need to be dunked for a while to re-
absorb water.
• Remove the plants from their pots every one to two years, fully
replacing the degraded medium, thus minimizing the effects of
compaction, otherwise known as the concrete mass around
which your precious water flows unimpeded. Fresh planting mix
will be light and fluffy, serving your plants well until it too
becomes degraded and compacted over time. If a medium has
become waterproof in spite of my efforts and repotting is not on
the day’s agenda, my temporary fix is to poke many deep holes
with a long metal skewer, allowing water to flow into the
medium again.
• Do not place a layer of gravel or other “drainage” material in the
bottom of the pot before adding the soil: “…the gravel decreases
the total volume of medium with favorable aeration. The pores at
the interface of the container medium and gravel must be
saturated before water will move down into the gravel. This
means that a layer of medium with near maximum water content
is positioned above the gravel rather than on the container
bottom. Therefore, the effective height of this container is
reduced by the depth of the gravel in the bottom.” (Dewayne L. •
Ingram, Richard W. Henley and Thomas H. Yeager, University
of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, http://
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CN004, August 1991.) You can, however, cover
the drainage hole with a piece of wire or plastic mesh. I don’t
bother.
• Avoid really small pots, as they will dry out much faster than
their larger cousins. Rather than planting one plant per little
container, try grouping several with similar cultural requirements
in a larger container. Obviously, clay dries out faster than
plastic, small dries out faster than large and those in the sun dry
out faster than those in shade. Artfully clustering pots keeps
them cooler in a hot spot.
• Black is hotter than white. “Dr. Carl Whitcomb in his book Plant rocks that I’ve collected all over the West Coast. Gives me an
Production in Containers states that ‘this study shows that heat
stress on plant roots in containers is a serious problem. The rapid benefit of taking thousands of years to decompose.
loss of roots following exposure correlates with the abrupt plant
7
by Christina Kriedt, MG ‘06
stress frequently observed when container-grown plants are
spaced during the summer. Roots killed by heat are prime sites
for the entrance of root-rot disease organisms. Root death from
high temperatures may be a major factor in providing an easy
entrance to root diseases.’ There have been some studies on
replacing black plastic with white plastic but while white
containers do reduce the soil temperature, the white polyethylene
becomes brittle on UV exposure and falls apart. But in general,
the lighter the color of the containers the less the effect from
sunlight. Something to consider.” (Andy Walsh, “Root Heat in
Containers”, http://www.evergtreengardenworks.com/rootheat.
htm, December, 2005.)
cooler: place the growing pot inside a larger container and fill
the space between them with sphagnum moss or pea gravel. You
can get the lovely look of clay pots with the moisture retention
of the plastic pot inside if that’s what you fancy. Both pots
should have drainage holes.
• Don’t water a plant that doesn’t need it. You can tell how dry a
plant is by lifting the pot or by spotting the first slightly wilting
leaf. Feel the soil to 1” down; if it’s dry, water; if not, don’t. I
read about a gardener who plants an indicator plant that shows
early signs of water stress, such as coleus, among other
ornamentals. When the coleus wilts, he waters.
• “Hydrogels (hydrophilic polymers) are hard, crystal-like
polymers that absorb water. In theory, this absorbed water is
then slowly made available to plant roots to prevent or delay
water stress. Individual particles will absorb between 60 and 400
times their dry weight in water, depending on the specific type.
Caution is advised if you are incorporating hydrogels into the
potting mix. Hydrogels are known to break down in the presence
of fertilizer salts, so you will probably increase their usefulness
by using only slow-release fertilizers and irrigation water low in
soluble salts. Also, do not use more than the manufacturer’s
recommended rate per container or area; plants have actually
popped out of the soil and containers in wet seasons or under
heavy irrigation because there was too much hydrogel in the
mix.” (Garden in Containers, HYB-1254-00, Jane C. Martin,
Extension Agent, Horticulture, OHIO State University
Extension, http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1254.hrml.)
Water until it runs out the drainage holes, then fill it to its top
again. I place my houseplants in 6” of tepid water until bubbles
stop rising to the surface, a few minutes in most cases. I can’t lift
my larger outside pots, so I water them slowly and gently
making sure to wet all the soil to the pot interface, not just in the
middle. Be suspicious if the water runs out the drainage holes
two seconds after you start pouring; check to see if it’s just
running in rivulets between the shrunken, dry medium and the
container; might be time to refresh the container with new loose
planting mix. Your plant will be eternally grateful --- at least for
a couple more years.
Mulch will aid in moisture retention. I like to use small
excuse to continue to collect them. A rock mulch has the added
How great is that? Î
8 MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006

Pruning Japanese Maples

Impressions from a Novice Pruner by Kari Olsen, MG ‘06

“Pruning Japanese Maples reflects the Japanese Art of
enhancing the tree’s natural grace and beauty.”
—Yamagami’s Japanese Maple Handout
Yamagami’s Nursery in Cupertino recently hosted a
demonstration of Japanese Maple pruning conducted by Alan
Tagami, Landscape Consultant. Each participant in the well-
attended class received an information packet filled with
Japanese Maple fact sheets covering tips for successful
growing and pruning basics. Alan began the class by
acknowledging the “mystique” associated with Japanese
Maple pruning methods that can lead novice pruners to take a
“hands off” approach for fear of inflicting their inexperience
on an unsuspecting tree. While the aesthetic pruning of
Japanese Maples is unmistakably an art form, too often this
impression prevents gardeners from “learning by doing” with
their own trees. Alan stressed that Japanese Maples,
universally admired for their delicate grace and beauty, are
also very hardy, forgiving trees much more durable than their
appearance suggests. For the novice pruner, this was a
reassuring statement.
The basic tools Alan recommended and used during his
demonstration are most likely already in the gardener’s tool
caddy: garden shears for cutting branches ½” or smaller;
loppers for medium branches over ½”; and a pruning saw for
large branches.
While experts may disagree over the “true” aesthetic
pruning techniques particular to Japanese Maples, Alan
suggested many pruning methods exist, each one particular to evident, but the gardener will continue to learn more including
the pruner’s individual preferences and the mental picture s/he how to correct problems resulting from earlier inexperience.
creates of the end result. Alan’s pruning demonstration using He assured us that the durable Japanese Maple would be
several nursery maples in containers illustrated his particular forgiving.
style and how he visualized the future structure and shape of
those trees. His years of experience and artistry shone as he
made quick, decisive cuts often accompanied by gasps from
the audience and exclamations such as, “I’d be way too timid Christopher Brickell. DK, 1996.
to make that cut!” A frequent question was, “how did you
know you wanted to prune that branch?” Alan’s two answers
were always “visualize how you want it to look and create that
picture” and “experience”.
Alan did cover some basics to keep in mind when pruning
Japanese Maples. These essentials included:
• Always use clean, sterilized, SHARP pruning tools.
• Begin pruning after the young tree is established, about
two to three years after planting.
• Prune and shape Japanese Maples each year – limited but
constant light pruning can be done during any season. Any
dead, diseased, damaged, twiggy or crossing branches can
be removed at any time.
• Prune larger branches in Jan. – Feb. just as buds begin to
swell, but well before the sap starts to rise.
• Pruning cuts should be made above a promising bud or
side branch, or to a main branch or trunk. Medium or large
branch cuts should be made just above the branch collar to
promote quick healing.
• Thin the tree interior to display the graceful trunk and
branch structure.
• To reduce tree size or to direct plant growth, prune back to
a branch that is heading in the desired direction.
• The use of tree-wound paint on the cut surfaces is not
recommended.
• Heavy pruning produces vigorous growth shoots that
emerge beneath the cut. These sprouts should be rubbed
off by hand, leaving only one or two buds pointing in the
desired direction.
• A major reduction in size or radical pruning should be
done over the course of several years with continued
follow-up pruning to maintain the tree shape.
• Pruning techniques are essentially the same for both
container-grown maples and maples in the ground. In both
cases, visualization of the desired result is the key
regardless of the cultivar or growing situation.
Alan concluded his demonstration by reminding the
participants that pruning Japanese Maples is a learning process
where “learn as you go” is the best method. Each year as the
tree leafs out and grows, pruning “mistakes” will become
Recommended Reading:
American Horticultural Society Pruning & Training: A Fully
Illustrated Plant-by Plant Manual. David Joyce and
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006 9

A reference manual on pruning and training ornamental trees,

fruit trees, shrubs, soft fruits, climbing plants, and roses.
Japanese Maples: Third Edition. J.D. Vertrees. Timber Press,
2001.
The undisputed reference book on Japanese Maples.
Maples for Gardens: A Color Encyclopedia. C.J. van Gelderen
and D.M. van Gelderen. Timber Press, 1999.
A magnificent photo gallery of the best maples for garden use.
Ortho’s All About Pruning. Marilyn Rogers. Ortho, 1999.
A pruning primer with instructions for 180 trees, shrubs, and
vines.
Wonderful Websites:
Mountain Maples
Mountain Maples is a mail-order nursery, dedicated to
growing, selling and shipping beautiful Japanese Maples. The
Mountain Maples Website features pruning “how-to” articles,
tools, supplies, books, as well as a wealth of information about
Japanese Maple cultivars for every growing situation. An
especially helpful photo essay shows the pruning process step-
by-step (see “Pruning Japanese Maples Article and Photo
Essay”).
http://www.mountainmaples.com
Yamagami’s Nursery
Consult often for information on upcoming classes and events.
http://www.yamagamisnursery.com/ Î
10
Garden Faire Update: Countdown to the Faire
Mark your calendar to relish the Smart Gardening Faire on
June 24, 2006.
When you receive this issue of Gardening on the Edge, the
Faire Players (our planning committee) will be busily focusing
on the final details of preparation for Faire day, which grows
closer by the minute.
The seeds that were planted have been bearing fruit and
we’re already seeing an excellent crop of speakers and
exhibitors, musicians and foodies, generous sponsors and
hard-working (and creative) volunteers.
We have a cornucopia of recent developments to share, but We also are very pleased to report the Faire’s photographer is
there’s too much to cram into this brief report. For the very Diane Norrby (also in the 2006 class). We’re hoping that
latest information on the Faire’s speakers, exhibitors and
sponsors, visit smartgardening.org.
Still, we must mention that Monterey Bay Master
Gardeners, in addition to their all-important role as sponsors
of this event and their multi-faceted contributions as planners
and organizers, are emerging as a key ingredient in the Faire’s Come to the Faire! Î
Al’s Corner: Garden Masonry Without Mortar
Masonry projects in the garden using the usual cinder
blocks, mixing the mortar, and keeping the blocks plumb, is a
real struggle with the job often ending up looking amateurish.
Now, with the availability of interlocking concrete blocks
which need no mortar, we gardeners can build our own
projects and look professional. If we decide in a year or two to laying concrete paving stones and it has outlasted many
make a change the blocks are as good as new and ready for the
next use.
Sure these blocks cost a little more, $1.19 each for the size
used in this flower box. The cost for this enclosure three feet
by three feet by two feet high amounted to about $75. Ten
years ago I made one of redwood salvaged from an old
building; however, with ground contact, it has now rotted
away. In comparison, the concrete blocks will not need to be
replaced in ten years.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June-July 2006
by Tom Karwin, MG ’99 and Sheryl McEwan, MG ‘03
recipe for success. Our fellow MGs will host three very
interesting exhibit booths: Garden Faire Arts and Crafts
(Melita Israel & Cynthia Jordan), Garden Faire Bookshoppe
(Cynthia Jordan), and Garden Faire Plant Propagation (Robin
Sanders). There’s a busy team of cooks making each of these
treats a special reality, to be sure, and we just can’t keep up
with the growing roster, so we’ll honor all the participants
later.
The Faire Players have new members, too. We’re very
pleased to welcome Simon Stapleton (in the 2006 class of
MGs), who will supervise the set-up and strike of the Faire.
schedules with allow Leora Worthington (Class of ’03) to
share her photographic talents on that day (two sets of eyes
help to find truth and beauty!). We’re working on adding
video coverage in order to gather a few telling snippets for
next year’s publicity.
We’re always open to new ideas and welcome Faire day
volunteers. We have one very important position still
available for a creative and resourceful individual:
Coordinator of Faire Signage. This person will take the lead in
identifying all the signs that will be needed on the day of the
Faire, producing the signs and putting them in place. This is a
key function and work should begin soon, and we can help! If
you, gentle reader, would like to join the Faire Players and
take on this task, please contact Sheryl or Tom at your earliest
convenience.
by Al Derrick, MG ‘95
Using these blocks only requires that the first course on
the ground be level and the ground needs to be firmly
compacted, so as not to settle. When a partial block is needed,
a skillsaw with a diamond or abrasive blade is all that is
needed. I bought a diamond blade twenty years ago when
abrasive blades. The shape of the blocks allows either straight
runs or curves. A lip of about one inch on the bottom rear of
the blocks causes the stack of blocks to move back into the
soil and lock together. Because my native soil is clay
reinforced with rocks I was able to remove the rotted wood
without disturbing the fuchsia other than pruning it back. The
bench is installed using plastic drain pipe set in concrete
which allows it to be lifted off for refinishing, or, as in this
case, the rebuilding of the flower box. Screwed to the bottom
of the bench is a plastic flange usually used for mounting a
toilet to the floor. Î
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î
Garden Masonry Without Mortar
Top: Half of the blocks installed
Center: Bench removed to show complete block
construction
Bottom: Blocks placed on bench to show in cross section
how they stack upon each other
June-July 2006 11
Book Review
by Kathleen Sonntag, MG ‘06
Five gardening books published in 2005 have been awarded
the American Horticultural Society’s 2006 Book Award. One
of these is California Native Plants for the Garden by Carol
Bornstein, David Fross and Bart O’Brien.
The authors are three of the state’s most experienced native
plant horticulturists. David Fross gave a presentation on
California Native Plants at the UCSC Arboretum on March 20.
His slides were selected from those used in the book and his
talk was entertaining and informative. He just published
another book, Ceanothus that was released this year in addition
to this one, an inclusive book on California native plants.
David Fross is the Development Director of the Leaning
Pine Arboretum’s California Garden, and has put into practice
the knowledge he shares with readers in this new book.
Throughout the book there are photographs of the plants in the
Arboretum featuring plant groupings dictated by California’s
varying regions. Dave believes his book introduces gardeners
who are unfamiliar with natives to these beautiful and
functional plants. He focuses on habitat plantings.
One of the things I like most about this book, besides the
photographs of each plant, is the inclusion of information about
how the plant grows in sun or shade (often with photos in both
conditions to show the difference), what it partners with, pest
problems and complete information about the plant family.
Preceding the Section of Plant Profiles are three chapters
with information about California natives in general and a
chapter on “Designing a California Native Garden.” This is a
special skill of David’s as he has won numerous awards for his
landscapes designs, including his recent project for Los
Angeles, designing the native plant landscape that is part of the
revival of the Los Angeles
River.
Following the A-Z plant
profile section, the book
deals with annuals, bulbs,
and recommended plant
selections by habitat and
type. Here you will find
lists of plants that make
good windbreaks, grow
under oaks, etc. I couldn’t
think of anything that wasn’t
covered.
This is a comprehensive
volume that belongs on the
bookshelf of all California
gardeners. It is a complete reference as well as an inspiring
guide to growing California native plants in your garden. Î
Advanced Training, Volunteer Opportunities and Other Events
Sun., June 11, 9-4, Bamboo Workshop with Karl Bareis, UCSC
Arboretum, call 427-2998 for details.
Sat., June 17, 1:00, Free Wormshop. Call 427-3452 for details.
Mon. June 19, 7 pm, The Genus Trichocereus in Argentina,
Guillermo Rivera, noted South American plantsman, will give a talk
on these argentine cacti. Pot Luck Supper at 6 pm., UCSC
Arboretum, 427-2998, Free.
Thurs., June 22, and July 27, 1:30 pm, Native Plant ID
Workshop, Learn to key out native plants using the Jepson Manual.
Bring book if you have it, and 7x or 10x hand lens. No experience
necessary, UCSC Arboretum, 427-2998, Free.
Sat., June 24, 9-5, MBMG Smart Gardening Faire, Scotts
Valley’s Skypark. Speakers include Renee Shepherd, Alrie
Middlebrook, Ellen Wright, Michele Swanson and Monique Smith
Lee, aka ‘The Bat Lady’. Smartgardening.org or 457-7272.
Volunteers appreciated!
Sat., July 15, 10-1, Growing and Using Medicinal Herbs from the
Garden, Louise Cain Gatehouse, UCSC Farm. Learn about the
abundance of herbs growing in local gardens. Darren Huckle, a
Western/Chinese herbalist and licensed acupuncturist, will teach
you about sources of medicinal plants, how to use garden herbs for
health and wellness, and how to prepare planting beds and harvest
herbs. $15/members; $20/non-members. Call 459-3240.
July 15-30, Summer Permaculture Design Course, Mt. Madonna
by Sharon Ettinger, MG ’00 & Sharon Tyler, MG ‘04
School. Permaculture is an inspiring design methodology that
applies common sense and ecological principles toward the creation
of human settlements and the restoration of habitat. It combines the
thoughtful observation of natural patterns with the tools of modern
society to create abundant and regenerative systems. Permaculture
is a way of thinking about and creating a positive future that is
rooted in the following ethics: Care for Earth, Care for People,
Distribute the Surplus. For further info call 840-6045.
Sat., July 22, 10-1, Gopher Control Workshop, Louise Cain
Gatehouse, UCSC Farm.
Thomas Wittman shares his expertise in controlling gophers and
other vertebrate pests in your garden. Learn the latest techniques for
protecting your plants and lawn from damage, $15/members; $20/
non-members. Call 459-3240 for more information.
Sun., July 23, 1:00, Free Wormshop. Call 427-3452 for details.
Other Garden Events
Sat. & Sun., June 24 & 25, 8th Annual Parade of Ponds,
462-2852 or 800-353-4957 for ticket information,
www.pondsaway.com.
Sat., June 24, 8th Annual Hidden Gardens Tour,
Big Sur, 667-1530, www.bigsurarts.org. Reservations essential.
Summer events at Bonfante Gardens:
www.bonfantegardens.com. Î

G A R D E N I N G O N T H E E D G E
Newsletter of the Monterey Bay Master Gardeners

For 12 issues, send $15 to:

Master Gardeners Newsletter
1432 Freedom Blvd.
Watsonville, CA 95076
http://montereybaymg/ucdavis.edu
Hotline: 831-763-8007
Ad rates: $25 per month from gardening
oriented businesses.
Address change: contact Robin Sanders at
726-1942 or robinsanders@redshift.com.

Editor: Joan McLeod Mertz

Assistant Editor:
Design/Layout: Christina Kriedt and
Robin Sanders
Circulation: Crystal Bertheau
Staff:
Bonnie Pond Paul McCollum
Al Derrick Natalie Chambliss
Tom Karwin Mary Koch
Christina Kriedt Jan Olafsson
Kari Olsen Nancy Ruiz
Kathleen Sonntag Sharon Tyler
Stuart Walzer Ellen Wright Copyright © 2006 MBMG. All rights reserved