GARDENING ON THE EDG E
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008
NEWSLETTER OF THE MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
Number 130 — June / July 2008
For the Love of Roses
It was a perfect Saturday morning when we visited the
rose garden of Otto and Joyce Lund in Santa Cruz on May
17. First impressions are always important and this one
was truly outstanding. Otto has been growing and
cultivating heirloom roses since the early 1980s and the
size, maturity, and beauty of his plants are truly something
to behold.
Otto holds a degree in geology from Fresno State
University, which he earned in 1975, and he supervises and
runs the laboratory at Soil and Plant Laboratory in Santa
Clara. Additionally, over the past few years he has
switched from chemical to organic methods of
maintenance and, judging from what we observed, his
plants seem to have taken to it quite nicely.
Roses and rose growing have been part of Otto’s family
for many generations. The beautiful Victorian home sits on
almost an acre of ground in one of the finer historical areas
of Santa Cruz. The home was built in 1879-1880 and has
been passed down through the generations to this day.
One rose, an 1880 Madame Cécile Bruner bred in France by
Marie Ducher, was planted by Otto’s Great grandmother
in the early part of the last century.
I knew I was in good company when suddenly Bill
Grant appeared from the front yard with camera in hand
taking pictures of some of the hundreds of roses growing
‚For the Love of Roses
‚Congratulations to the Class of 2008
‚Making Cut Flowers Last Longer with Proper
Handling and Vase Solutions
‚Playing With Cut Flowers
‚Epolls
‚Roses in Water
‚Rose Beauties
1
— Paul McCollum, MG04
on the property. Bill Grant is a superior rosarian and
author who is known and respected worldwide for his
knowledge and tour-leading abilities in the rose gardens of
Europe and elsewhere. He and Otto are good friends and
share information on the finer points of the art of roses.
Otto grows and maintains roses of all types but is
especially a lover and curator of older heirlooms and
climbers and ramblers. One of Otto’s sons, Karl, who is
working on his PhD, is using many of Otto’s heirlooms as
pollinators for future hybridizing. On one of my earlier
visits I observed hundreds of labeled bags tied to numerous
roses as part of the experiments being conducted - very
impressive!
Otto has been the president of the Monterey Bay Rose
Society more than once, has served as first and second vice
president and as a member of the board of directors. Otto
is a Consulting Rosarian and, as a matter of fact, is the
Chief Consulting Rosarian of the MBRS. Also, he is an
active member of the American Rose Society and of the
Heritage Rose Group; he is often called upon to lecture on
soils and both modern and heirloom roses. Those
interested in contacting Otto can write him at
jtlund@sbcglobal.net. More photos follow.
(All photos by Paul McCollum)
MBMGs Support School Gardens‚
My Little Adventure with a Bee Swarm in Spring‚
Updates‚
Featured Plant: Alstroemeria‚
Book Review: Gardening Without Firearms‚
Confessions: They’re Only Words‚
Advanced Training & Volunteer Opps‚
Relevant Internet Miscellany‚
2 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

Left and detail above,

“Madame Cécile Brunner”

Above: In the background is a portion of the 25-

foot-plus polyantha, climbing Cécile Brünner,
bred in United States (1894) by Franz Hosp.
In the foreground is Bill Grant. Above: Otto Lund at the front gate. “Welcome to my Rose Garden”
William (Bill) Grant is a garden writer, photographer, and lecturer. Below: “Eye Candy” (1975) Florabunda by McCredy
He retired from a long academic career to pursue his love of gardening.
He is a native of Arizona and was educated in private and public schools
in California. Undergraduate and graduate work in American literature
was followed by teaching in California, England and Sweden. He received
two Fulbright awards during this time. His long association with the
University of California at Santa Cruz Arboretum culminated in his
role as president of its support group. In 1989 he spent a month crossing
Australia with others in search of new plant material for the Arboretum,
which has a large collection of Australian flora.
In his own collection he has a wide variety of species and old roses. He
is founder of the Californian Garden History Society. He was one of the
consultants for 'Botanica's Roses’ and was editor of the paperback
edition of the book. He lives and gardens in Aptos California.
(Paul McCollum)
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 3

Bill and Otto under

one of the several
large arches leading
to the house.

“The Garland”
Bred in United Kingdom (1835) by William Wells.
Hybrid Moschata, Hybrid Multiflora.
This enormous climber was just about ready to bloom - when in bloom the foliage is nearly
obscured by the abundance of flowers! Flower and bud detail

Monterey Bay Rose Society http://www.montereybayrosesociety.org/

American Rose Society http://www.ars.org/
Heritage Rose Group http://members.cruzio.com/~perry/
4 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

“Alexander Girault”
Bred in France (1907) by
Barbier Frères & Compagnie.
Looking toward the entrance to the front gate we walked under 5 arches of
blooming climbing roses to end our visit - the fragrance was outstanding!
How fortunate we were to visit such a lovely garden. Ï
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 5

Congratulations
to the
Class of 2008

Welcome to the Master Gardener community!

Your hard work over the past five months
is greatly appreciated.
May you be rewarded with
much joy, friendship and gratification.

Dear Joan and Carri ,

What a sense of relief it is to have the final exam
finished, graded and in your capable hands! I have enjoyed
the past months for more than the information received in
class. I've enjoyed the changing cycles of agriculture in the
fields between the Monterey Peninsula and Watsonville.
I've enjoyed meeting people who share my passion for
gardening and thirst for horticultural knowledge. I have
enjoyed meeting you two, being exposed to fabulous
presenters and current MG'ers, and especially, getting to
know Steve What's His Name, Chessvold. Delightful, all
of you!
It was with joy in my heart that I quickly changed into
my disreputable turquoise shorts and returned to my
garden unencumbered by the cloud of responsibility
hanging over my head telling me to go inside and work on
my final. After finishing by the sunset afterglow, I soaked
in my hot tub. In nightie and robe, I meandered uphill to
my new garden cottage, mi casita, to experience the
enveloping warmth captured inside her walls. While
reclining on my childhood bed to watch the moon cast
beams through the windows and over the garden, guess
what happened...yes, I fell asleep. An hour or so later, I
again meandered home through the garden and to bed.
Thank you for all your organizational hard work
making these past few months possible for my class.
Cheers,
Cindy Lloyd, MG08

Sow good services;

Sweet remembrances will grow from them.
~Madame de Stael
6 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

Making Cut Flowers

Last Longer with Proper
Handling and Vase
Solutions
— Steve Tjosvold, Environmental
Horticulture Farm Advisor
They are not long, the days of wine and roses:
Out of a misty dream
Our path emerges for a while, then closes
Within a dream. - Ernest Dowson, 1867-1900
You can’t stop the decline and death of a cut flower, but
you can slow this inevitable process down and enjoy cut
flowers longer by handling them properly and using the
right vase solutions. Playing with Cut Flowers
The cut flower is respiring and still needs a source of — Christina Kriedt, MG06
sugar. So many recommended vase solutions have some Erigeron karvinskianus or Fleabane, above, is a not a
(table) sugar in them. Yet, if the solution was just sugar, California native; it was introduced from Mexico and
bacteria could develop and clog the water conducting regions south. It is certainly ubiquitous on the Central
tissue (xylem) of the stem. Many vase solutions also Coast and, never having seen it in a bouquet, I thought I’d
contain a weak acid or other antimicrobial agent to slow test whether it could last in water. I cut a few stems and,
bacterial growth. Oftentimes purchased flowers come with much to my surprise, they stayed lovely for 5 days.
a small packet of flower food containing these com- My Carpenteria californica, Bush Anemone or Tree
ponents. Make sure you follow directions on these packets. Anemone, is now covered in exquisite flowers — between
Making weaker solutions than recommended might two garbage cans by the driveway. I cut a few stems that
actually reduce vase life because the antimicrobial agent also stayed perfect for 5 days. This is a California native
will not be at an effective concentration. If you don’t have and, according to Wikipedia, “It is a rare species, endemic
commercial flower food, you could make up a solution from to only seven sites in Fresno and Madera Counties, where
home ingredients. Here are two recipes: it grows in chaparral.... It is well adapted to wildfire,
1. Lemon-lime soda recipe: Mix 1 part regular lemon- reproducing by stump sprouts after burning; natural
lime soda with 3 parts warm water. Add ¼ teaspoon of seedling are rare.” I think I’ll take better care of mine. Ï
household bleach per quart of vase solution. Don’t use
Above: Erigeron; below: Carpenteria
diet soda.
(Photos by Christina Kriedt)
2. Lemon juice recipe: Mix 2 tablespoons of lemon juice
(fresh or bottled), 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ teaspoon of
household bleach per quart of warm water.
Check the level of vase solution daily and replenish it as
necessary. Add an additional ¼ teaspoon of bleach per
quart to the container every 3 or 4 days. If the vase solution
becomes cloudy or smells bad, replace it completely and
trim and rinse the flower stems before putting them back
into the container.
Other things that help: Don’t use aspirin, vinegar, or
“soft” water in vase solutions. They can actually be worse
than using plain water. Use a clean vase. Make sure the
flowers are not wilted when you place them in the
container. Cut stems under water just before you place
them in the vase. Keep flowers cool before and after they
are placed in the vase.
For more information, see “Extending the Freshness of
Cut Flowers at Home”, P. Geisel and C. Unruh. UC ANR
Publication 8113. http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8113.pdf. Ï
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008
Epolls — compiled by Sharon Ettinger, MG00
What is your favotite cut flower to
grow and what tips can you share
about growing it?
Susan Suddjian, MG08
I like lots of flowers that are easy for cutting: alstroe-
meria, bachelor buttons, sweet peas and roses. But I think
one of the best is the super easy calla lily, which requires
NO care when given the right location, and gives long-
lasting cut flowers without any thought at all. One of the
prettiest I've seen lately in flower arrangements is Cestrum,
which I don't know much about growing except that it is a
nice shrub. The foliage and tubular flowers are lovely to
set off similar pink or reds in arrangements. Naturalizing
bulbs are wonderful; I have Sparaxis [Wand-Flower or
Harlequin Flower], iris and freesia in my garden, which
come back year after year.
Geri Farasopoulos, MG06
My favorite cut flowers are stems cut from my fruit
trees in early spring. Double Delight nectarine, Santa Rosa
plum, apple and cherry are all good.
Sherie Bolen, MG03
One of my favorite cut flowers is alstroemeria,
specifically 'The Third Harmonic'. The burgundy buds
open to golden blossoms; it has a long stem and lasts a long
time in a vase. This particular variety practically grows
itself in my garden. It doesn't get much water, and thrives
in lean soil and part shade. (In better conditions, this plant
can actually spread vigorously and requires a large area).
The flowers are not actually cut in the garden. The entire
stem is pulled out of the ground and then trimmed to the
right height for the vase.
Claudia Boulton, MG99
My very favorite is alstroemeria, mainly because it lasts
so long in the vase and can be mixed with so many
different things. It is easy to grow on the Central Coast.
Left: Calla,
Center: Bachelor Button
(Photos by C. Kriedt)
Right: Alstroemeria
‘The Third Harmonic’
(Photo by Sherie Bolen)
7
It doesn't need much water, is nearly pest-free (occasional
snail damage), likes sun but does well in my garden with
about 1/2 day sun, is not frost tender and needs
no fertilizer. It blooms from early May until fall, although
the bloom tapers off in late summer. The only tip I would
give about growing it is that it wants to spread. Therefore,
give it plenty of space or grow it in a confined area.
It is usually called Peruvian Lily and comes in many
colors - red, yellow, orange, gold, pink white, purple and
mixed colors. My favorite is a hybrid, probably one of the
Meyer hybrids, with white petals brushed with 2 shades of
pink, yellow in the throat and burgundy lines that look as
if applied with a fine marker. Beautiful in the vase with
burgundy leaves, roses, pink heuchera, ferns,
etc. Remember to pull out the whole stem when harvesting
the blooms, then cut to desired length.
Sharon Etttinger, MG00
Dutch iris planted last fall have proved to be amazing in
bouquets. They relied on the winter rains for all their
water needs and are long lasting in the garden and as a cut
flower. They have such elegance that a simple bouquet of 3
stems will light up a room.
Sweet peas, also if planted in the fall, can give glorious
blossoms in the spring (with their delightful fragrance)
without supplemental watering. They need to be protected
with an extra sturdy trellis if winter winds are strong.
One hybrid tea rose, ‘Midas Touch’ (yellow blossoms)
is a very heavy flower producer in my Aptos garden. I
counted 65+ rose buds this spring and last year counted 85
at one time. And that’s repeated several times during the
flowering season (April to November). I make sure I
fertilize 3 times a year, Valentine’s Day, 4th of July and
Labor Day. I like to use ‘Roses Alive’ (from Gardens Alive)
or a mixture of 1/3 alfalfa pellets, 1/3 fishmeal and 1/3 kelp
meal. Mix together and feed each plant 1 pound. (This
recipe is from General Feed in Santa Cruz where these
ingredients can be bought in bulk.) My roses get no spray
and very minimal water. The shrubs don’t look that great
by fall, but that doesn’t impact the beauty of their
blossoms.
8 June - July 2008
What native or drought tolerant
flowers do you grow for cutting and
what tips can you share about
growing them?
Sherie Bolen, MG03
A good native flower for floral
arrangements, or to just cut and place
in a vase, is Heuchera maxima (Island
Alum Root). The long stems with the
airy white or buff flower clusters
make good filler in arrangements, and
are long-lasting. This is an easy plant
to grow when placed well, and is
especially adaptable to growing under
and near oaks, since not much water
is required. Some drip irrigation is
helpful during the dry season, and the
plant can be kept looking neat by
cutting the tired flower stalks and
pulling or cutting out any dead leaves
from the base. It grows well in sun or
part shade in my north-facing garden.
The photo above shows Heuchera in
a vase with a cut branch of another
California native, the shrub
Fremontedendron.
Chris Carrier, MG06
Above: Heuchera in a vase with a cut branch
Our garden is nearly all California
natives, and not a single one lives in
Fremontedendron. (Photo by Sherie Bolon)
fear of being savaged for human
beautification. It's our task to be
acceptable visitors in their house.
Sharon Tyler MG04
I have found that California
poppies do well in arrangements.
They close up at night just as they do
outside.
Also, the common Star Lily
(Zigadenus fremontii), a native bulb that
thrives on neglect in my yard, makes
nice arrangements alone, with
daffodils, or with other groupings. It
flowers profusely in early spring.
What is your favorite
flowering tree and how
do you care for it?
Chris Carrier, MG06
The jacaranda offers about as much
loveliness as a mortal can stand. The
first time I saw this tree I had to pull
off the road to stare at the display of
Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
blue brilliance. I finally acquired one of these trees from
Darcy (MG 06).
Unfortunately, I thought I lost it in last spring's cold
snap. I was disgusted with myself and towed the pot to
the back of the patio. After about two months, it came
back from the roots. It has tripled in size to a massive 12
inches high at this point. In my
mind's eye, I again see my tree in its
mature magnificence, but it is taking
its time.
Tom Karwin, MG99
I have three Chitalpa tashkentensis
trees in my garden. These are crosses
of the Desert Willow (Chilopsis
linearis) and Common Catalpa (C.
bignonioides). A few years ago, Al
Derrick brought cuttings of this tree
to a MG class and recommended it as
small patio tree. One of my trees grew
from one of Al's cuttings. It's now
about twelve feet tall and should
eventually reach 20 feet or more.
Sunset's Western Garden Book describes
the flowers: "erect clusters of frilly,
trumpet-shaped flowers in pink,
white or lavender appear from late
spring to fall. 'Pink Dawn' has pink
blooms, 'Morning Cloud' white ones."
(My trees are 'Pink Dawn'.)
The WGB recommends not plant-
of another California native, the shrub
ing this tree near a patio because it
drops blossom and leaves. I agree, but
Below: C. canadensis ‘Forest Pansy’ with I just sweep them up occasion-ally. It
Juncas, Euphorbia and Melianthus. also recommends not to over water.
(Photo by C. Kriedt) As a gardening procrastinator, I never
have a problem with over watering!
Candice McLaren, MG01
My favorite flowering tree has to
be my small pink flowering
Eastern Red Bud, Cercis cana-
densis ‘Forest Pansy’. The flowers
don't last very long, which is why I
probably enjoy it so much. The
beautiful pea-like pink flowers fade
and fall off allowing the equally
beautiful small colorful leaves to
grow.
Throughout the year, the leaves
change color ending in the fall with a
pallet of reds, oranges, and greens.
Just beautiful!
I have it planted up on a mound in
my back yard and found that it does
not like summer water. It's still too
small to prune but I've learned it does
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 9

not want to be pampered.

Other favorite flowering trees in my yard are the
Bartlett pear, the Fuji apple and, and...
Susan Suddjian, MG08
This time of year, the Cercis canadensis - Eastern Redbud
- are lovely. They are well adapted to our climate and seem
to bloom for many weeks in spring with a subtle flush of a
lovely magenta sweet pea like flowers all over. The heart
shaped leaves are pretty in summer and fall. 'Forest Pansy'
has a nice rounded form and purple leaves and they
tolerate clay soils.
Geri Farasopoulos, MG06
Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansey'. Plant in part shade is
the best advice.
Melita Israel, MG95 A vase of alstroemeria and sunflowers.
Whatever is in bloom, though the redwoods are hard to (Photo by Christina Kriedt)
beat. Right now the purple robe [Robinia] and English
hawthorn, ‘Paul's Scarlet’. Later the flowering eucalyptus
and the red leaves of pistacia. And all those fruit trees…how
can one choose? Ï

Flower Arranging Class at Cabrillo

Introduces floral desigh techniques and styles as well as
the proper handling and preparation of fresh flowers.
Meets June 17-July 10.
Check the Cabrillo Schedule of Classe for details:
http://www.cabrillo.edu/home/schedules/index.html

Roses in Water
— Paul McCollum, MG04
Above: A bouquet of roses and irises. (Photo by Sharon
I have tried many things but I keep coming back to this: Ettinger) Below: Centranthus, Carpenteria, Pelargonium, Rosa,
some roses just last longer in the vase! Loose-petaled roses and others. (Photo by Christina Kriedt)
(‘Jude the Obscure’ for example) seem to last the shortest
time and buds that are beginning to open stay good-
looking as they open. Buds picked too early sometimes
never open but just turn brown and droop. Many of the
modern hybrid teas (‘Tropical Sunset’ for example) stay
good-looking and last in the vase a week or more. I think it
helps if when you cut a rose from the bush it goes directly
into water. Also, when cutting the stem before placing in
the vase it is best to cut it under water and immediately
transfer it to the vase. I have tried putting an aspirin in the
water, 7-up, and other things but a week in the vase is
about it no matter what I do. The bottom line, in my
opinion, is the timing of the cut and the variety of rose.
Although my wife appreciates me bringing roses into the
house for her, my favorite way to enjoy them is just to go
out in the garden and smell the roses - and let nature take
its course! Ï
10 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

Rose Beauties — Paul McCollum, MG04

‘Belle of Portugal’
This was taken in March of 2007 - not at the
peak of her bloom. She is larger this year and
growing up the pine tree.
Above, and right (Photos by Paul McCollum)

‘Madame Alfred Carriere’

She is classed as a noisette or tea noisette and she
was bred in France in 1879.
She is one of my favorites.
I have two plants; the other one has
reached the top of a 30' black locust tree.
Two below (Photos by Paul McCollum)
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 11

Monterey Bay Master

Gardeners Support School
Gardens — Claudia Boulton, MG99
Were you aware that your MBMG non-profit
contributed over $5000 last year to schools with gardening
programs for their students? Teaching students where
their food comes from, how to plant, water, weed, harvest
(and sometimes prepare the food) builds a knowledge base
that supports healthy living and a healthy environment for
the community of the future.
Twelve schools applied for and received up to $500
each for their gardening programs last year: Bay View
Elementary, Bradley Unified, Branciforte Middle School, From top, clockwise: Eating salad
Boulder Creek Elementary, Harden Middle School, Farmer’s Market
Mission Union School District, Mt. Madonna Elementary, Volunteers
Mt. Madonna High School, San Lorenzo Valley School garden
Elementary, Main Street Elementary (Soquel), and (Photos by Claudia Boulton)
Watsonville Charter School for the Arts.
The application process is not difficult. It requires that
applicants describe the connections between the garden
and the school curriculum; list the desired learning
outcomes for the garden program; describe the plans to
maintain the garden when school is not in session; and list
what they plan to buy with the grant money. Last year
preference was given to schools participating in the
California Instructional School Garden Program as that
program required extensive planning and organization and
our funding was able to supplement gardens with a proven
track record.
Applications are now being accepted for funding in
September 2008. Applications can be obtained by calling
the hotline at 831-763-8007, requesting one from
claudia@wildroselandscape.com or by downloading it
from our website. Ï
12
My Little Adventure with a
Bee Swarm in Spring
— Sharon Tyler, MG04
Bees regularly appear in abundance in our garden.
With plants flowering profusely this year, the bees are
busily visiting each bloom. We are often fortunate to wake
up to the sound of their buzzing at the long flowering
stems of the Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans) near our
bedroom.
However, I happened to be outside on April 24 this year
when I saw a large accumulation of bees swarming here
and there; they were very loud and swirling around
determinedly. This was the first time I had seen swarming
bees and I was startled. Since then I have learned that they
are not as dangerous as they seem. Bees swarm when it is
time to start a new hive.
After awhile I noticed that the bees were settling into a
small area. When I looked closer, I saw the bees in a large
cluster, appearing to hang from a low branch of a rock rose
bush (Cistus) near our driveway. It was a comfort to see
them in a smaller area, but I began to wonder if they were
planning to make a hive there.
It was at this point that I tried to locate someone to
collect the bees. Knowing the value of bees in my garden
and to agriculture everywhere, and of the widespread loss
of bees due to Colony Collapse Disorder, I hoped the
swarm could be saved.
My email message to MBMG brought several helpful
responses, but the quickest and most useful came from Kat
and Jay DeDontney. They are knowledgeable beekeepers
and wished to do what they could to save these bees. They
came the same day they received my message, as quickly as
their schedule allowed. Before they arrived, the day cooled
and the bees moved from the branch to the ground, making
a small mound. Jay had warned me that as the day cooled
the bees were in some danger, so I covered the mound of
bees with a large black plant pot. Soon, Jay and Kat
carefully removed the bees to an appropriate container.
June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
Bee swarm
(Photo from
Wikipedia)
Below left:
Three vase
candidates -
Daffodil,
Jupiter’s
Beard and
Rose.
(Photos by
C. Kriedt)
If you are the lucky witness to a similar event, or if there
is a beehive located too near your house, here are some
comments and ideas about whom to contact, contributed
by MBMGs. In the interest of privacy, I am not including
phone numbers. Contact me for their information.
• Kat and Jay DeDontney: Beekepers.
• Melita Israel: Fire stations usually know bee keepers
in their areas.
• From J.D.Githens via Paul McCollum: Bee Keepers in
Gilroy - Wayne Pitts, Harold.
• Geri Farsoupoulos: I would love to have the bees at my
house and would accept a hive if someone could
move it.
• Sue Proctor: I am interested in swarms in the Santa
Cruz area and could come to collect them if the timing
is right.
• Tammy Tahara: We had a swarm last year and called
Jeff Perez. He is currently moving a hive from our
house to a bee-friendly environment.
• Cynthia Jordan: Try Ken Foster of Terra Nova
Landscaping or UCSC Agroecology Farm and Garden
or a beekeeper at the Farmer’s Market.
For further information on bees and bee swarms, go to:
Santa Clara Valley Beekeepers Guild
Along with resources about bees, this web site has a list of
people from San Mateo to Santa Cruz to call if you have a
swarm. www.beeguild.org
California State Beekeepers Association, Inc.
www.californiastatebeekeepers.com/swarmsinfo.htmÏ
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008
Updates
Statewide Conference
— Simon Stapleton, MG06
Reminder: The MG Statewide Conference is being held
September 24-26 at Asilomar in Pacific Grove. It promises
to be an exciting event with breakout sessions addressing
many of today’s issues and providing valuable gardening
information. There is surely something for everyone at this
year’s conference. Make plans now to attend. Registration
and all pertinent information is available online at
www.mgconference.ucdavis.edu. Register early before the
events fill up.
The MBMG will be entering 3 of our projects in pursuit
of the prestigious Search For Excellence award; our
Gardening on the Edge newsletter, our website, and the Smart
Gardening Faire. We think all of these projects are worthy
of recognition by all Master Gardeners from around the
state. As you know, much thought and hard work has
made these projects second to none and we are proud to
present them to our fellow Master Gardeners.
We will also be participating in the conference
Marketplace. This is an opportunity for us to sell a few
items and add some $ so that we can support worthy
projects in our area. We have identified some items to be
offered, but if you have some ideas, please submit them to
the MBMG board for consideration.
Besides Advanced Training opportunities, the
conference will also provide many opportunities for
volunteer hours. As soon as all the tasks are identified, we
will be recruiting volunteers from our organization. If you
are interested in volunteering, please submit your name to
sistapleto@comcast.net. I will be compiling the list of
volunteers and let you know when we have identified all
our needs.
Again, I encourage you to make plans to attend at least
some portion of the conference. It should be a very
rewarding experience. Ï
Mark Your Calendar
Smart Gardening Faire
June 21
Masters Garden Tour
August 9 - 10
California Statewide Conference
September 24 - 26
13
Water-Smart Garden Contest and Tour
— Candice McLaren, MG01
This year’s Monterey Bay Master Gardener Tour is
going to be fantastic! It is our 11th annual tour and will
feature gardens that demonstrate the many ways to
conserve water in the garden.
The Water-Smart Garden Contest closed Friday, May
16th, with over 27 entries submitted. Some of the photo
previews and descriptions of the various gardens are
absolutely wonderful! Photos show gardens with water
catchment systems, lawn alternatives, plants with low
water requirements and some great before and after
photos. Several homeowners provided landscape plans,
plant lists, and one homeowner even submitted his soil
report! You are all going to be amazed at the gardens!
Our panel of judges met on May 21 st to finalize the
judging criteria and define gardening and water
conservation terms. The judging team includes Master
Gardeners Maryanne McCormick, Tina Heitzman, Bonnie
Pond, Alicia Molina; Joe DiMaggio with California
American Water; and Vai Campbell from Soquel Creek
Water District.
Discussion topics included efficient irrigation;
irrigation zones; types of sprinkler heads; and, of course,
plant selection, drought-tolerant plants, natives,
Mediterranean plants, succulents, and grasses. We have
agreed that each garden will be visited by a judging team
comprised of one water agency representative and one
Master Gardener.
Winners of the Water-Smart Garden Contest will be
announced at the Smart Gardening Faire on June 21 st. Tour
tickets will be sold at the Faire; maps and directions will
be available soon after. Then just 48 days later, on August
9th and 10th, we will hold the 11th Annual Master Gardener
Tour featuring the winning gardens!
Volunteers are needed for designing the
ticket/brochures and poster; distribution of the tickets and
posters; plant sales; raffle; and overseeing the docents for
each garden. If you are dedicated to educating the
gardening public (and yourself) about water conservation
methods, this is the volunteer project for you! Email
Candice (cmclaren1010@sbcglobal.net) or call 426-0758. Ï
Favorites for cutting:
Sweet pea and Dahlia
(Photos by C. Kriedt)
14
Featured Plant: Alstroemeria
Far right: the
alstroemeria
that wouldn’t
die
(Photos by
C. Kriedt)
The Rose. It is the ultimate flower for your spring,
summer and fall bouquets. It’s beauty is legendary, the stuff
of poetry and romance the world over. An entire family of
plants carries its name. The majestic and – excuse me… I’m
sorry. [whisper-whisper-whisper] I have just been informed
that according to the result of a recent poll conducted
among the Monterey Bay Master Gardeners, the plant in
the Number One position of our ‘10 Best Flowers for
Cutting’ is NOT the rose but Alstroemeria, the humble
Peruvian Lily aka Lily of the Incas aka “Ulster Mary” (an
interesting corruption). Well, what do you know?
The Alstroemeria. It is the ultimate flower for your
spring and summer bouquets. Its beauty is not particularly
legendary; it is not the stuff of poetry or romance anywhere
in the world (at least I couldn’t find any literary mention of
it during a 2-minute Google search). It has an entire family
of plants named for it too: Alstroemeriaceae. It is the #1
MBMG recommended plant to grow for its long-lasting
and colorful cut flowers. This ubiquitous restaurant-table
decoration is in fact a valuable, beautiful, interesting and
honorable plant brought to us from Chile and Brazil.
Alstroemeria is, in many ways, unlike a rose. It is a
member of the order Liliales that also includes (surprise!)
the Lily family and eight others. So they are monocots
(roses are dicotyledons in the order Rosales). Alstroe-
merias also have a root system comprised of one slender
rhizome or a cluster of rhizomes very unlike that of a rose,
which is fibrous. A really unusual feature of this plant is
that the leaves are resupinate, meaning that they twist 180
degrees from the base so that when you’re looking down on
a leaf surface, you’re actually seeing the bottom, which is
on the top. Rose leaves, to the best of my knowledge, are
not confused about which way is up. I’m not saying they’re
better, just different. Roses have petals, but alstroemerias
have tepals. No, really. Alstroemeria tepals are typically
spotted and/or striped with sometimes brilliant
contrasting colors. It’s worth taking a close look.
I had a very pleasant chat with Charlie at The Garden
Company about their large and lovely collection. He
June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
— Christina Kriedt, MG06
cautioned that regular water and fertilizer, especially for
alstroemerias in containers, is essential. Otherwise, they’re
easy to grow and can provide beautiful cut flowers for two
full seasons. Most of the flowers above were photographed
at The Garden Company.
As for their celebrated vase-life, I am a devout believer.
To illustrate this article I went on a photographic mission:
take as many pictures of alstroemerias as possible in order
to get one or two good shots. I pulled a single stem out of
the ground at my daughter’s house to place it in better light
for its portrait. After photographing it at my home, I left
the 28” stem with its one blossom across a large planter in
the sun and promptly forgot about it. Two days later, I
noticed that the flower had not wilted. Two more days
passed and, you guessed it, the flower had still not wilted.
Today is the 7th day, and it has still not wilted! I have to
admit, I’m seriously impressed.
Tips for growing and showing alstroemerias:
• Plant in full sun (or they’ll get leggy and fall over)
• They like regular water and fertilizer
• Snails and slugs cannot resist them
• Deadhead by removing entire stem
• For bouquets, pull the entire flower stem out of the
rhizome or cut it
• Remove all the leaves from each stem before placing in
a vase as the leaves yellow long before the flowers fade
• Divide in late summer or fall; replant only robust roots
• Plants die back completely in winter Ï
References:
http://www.alstroemeria.com/en/products/growing_info_cuts.php
http://www.incacollection.com/home/growing-tips
list (online at www.montereybaymastergardeners.org )
http://www.wholesale - wedding - flowers.com/fast - facts/
alstroemeria.php
http://www.weidners.com/alstroemeria_growing_instructions.html
Charlie at The Garden Company, a sponsor of GOTE, 2218 Mission
Street, Santa Cruz
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008
Book Review:
Gardening Without Firearms
—Tom Karwin, MG99
The challenges in my garden happily do not include
hungry deer, so I haven’t tested Master Gardener Carolyn
Singer’s plant list in Deer in My Garden — Volume 2:
Groundcovers & Edgers for its lack of appeal to deer. The title
might seem ambiguous, but the books (there is a Volume 1:
Perennials & Subshrubs) do in fact list deer-resistant plants.
Both are from The Yucky Flower Series, the name of which
was suggested by Singer’s three-year-old grandson, who
wisely commented, “The deer won’t eat yucky flowers.”
Her recommendations seem credible because they are
based on her observations of deer with easy access to a
variety of plants. After several years of observations, she
was prepared to list plants that were never eaten by the
deer. She did not even list plants that the deer ate
occasionally.
Singer defines “groundcovers” to include both low-
growing plants and those that grow up to about three feet
high, and notes that the taller plants may be most
appropriate in larger scale landscapes.
She omits three common groundcovers that are deer-
resistant but invasive: ivy (Hedera), creeping St. Johnswort
(Hypericum calycinum) and periwinkle (Vinca). I once spent
several hours digging out about 100 square feet of Vinca
minor that is not as invasive as Vinca major but still
troublesome.
The main section of the book identifies fifty-five deer-
resistant plants. Several are quite familiar, including
Achillea (Yarrow), Coreopsis (Tickseed), Lavandula
(Lavender), Penstemon (Beardtongue), Rosmarinus
(Rosemary), Stachys (Lamb’s Ears), Thymus (Thyme), and
others.
At the other end of the range of familiarity are several
plants that I might recognize but have never grown:
Aegopodium (Bishop’s Weed), Antennaria (Pussy Toes),
Cymbalaria (Kenilworth Ivy), Prunella (Self-heal), and
Tanacetum (Tansy). Some or all of these plants might be
more familiar to you.
I have listed only the genus of the plants included in
this book. In several instances Singer identifies the species
or cultivar of the plant that she has found to be deer-
resistant. She occasionally indicates plants in the same
genus that deer find tasty. For example, she reports that
Arctostaphylus uva-ursi (the species) and the cultivars
‘Radiant’ and ‘Point Reyes’ are reliably deer-resistant,
while the deer always ate the cultivar ‘Emerald Carpet’.
It is utterly forbidden to be half-hearted about gardening.
You've got to love your garden, whether you like it or not.
~W.C. Sellar & R.J. Yateman, Garden Rubbish, 1936
15
I also was pleased to discover that Volume 2 follows
Volume 1’s exemplary format, which features a wealth of
practical information on each plant. Singer lists some
versatile plants that also appear in Volume 1, so she refers
the reader to the detailed information in the earlier book.
For most plants, however, she includes valuable details
under the following headings:
Nomenclature: the plant’s common name and its full
botanical name (genus, species, cultivar);
Description: mature height and width, growth habit, leaf
and flower color and form;
Cultural Requirements: the plant’s light and soil
preferences, and irrigation requirements;
Seasonal Interest: changing leaf colors, formation of
berries or attractive seedheads;
Bloom: time and duration of blooms, needs for
deadheading and seed harvesting;
Companion Plants and Landscape Use: grouping plants
with similar water needs, selecting plants for their
mature size, foliage color, and other characteristics;
Propagation: the preferred method for making new
plants, given options of propagating from divisions,
cuttings, seeds, or layers.
Singer lists the plants alphabetically by botanical name,
which may well be the best organization for convenient
reference, and most entries include photographs. Two of
the three appendices offer multiple ways to locate plants:
by common name, and by exposure category, or particular
landscape situation
Many gardeners in the Monterey Bay area have frequent
invasions of their gardens by wild deer and are frustrated
to find their desirable and costly plants chewed to nubs.
The various aromatic sprays and bars of soap are unreliable
deterrents, it seems. As a result, the determined gardener
could either enclose the garden with a tall fence (or,
ideally, two fences several feet apart) or limit the garden to
plants that are naturally deer resistant.
Singer’s two Deer in My Garden books, plus the future
third volume, are excellent resources for finding and
selecting deer-resistant plants. While the hungry deer
discourage the gardener from growing many desirable
plants, these books give the gardener many good options to
consider.
On the bright side, the avid gardener should enjoy the
intriguing challenge inherent in a project to design an
appealing garden while drawing from only a limited
inventory of “yucky” plants. Ï
16
Confessions of a Reluctant
Gardener: They’re Only
Words — Christina Kriedt, MG06
As discussed in the article on page 14, alstroemerias
have leaves that are ‘resupinate.’ I would have thought, if I
saw the word out of context, that it meant something
about eating your soup again. But obviously it means
“upside down due to twisting of the pedicel.” Of course, it
helps to know what the pedicel is. And, as any savvy
gardener knows, resupination is the-orientation-of-
zygomorphic-flowers-during-development-so-that-the-
median-petal-obtains-the-lowermost-position-in-the-
mature -flower.(http://www.sciencedirect.com/
s c i e n c e _ o b = A r t i c l e U R L & _ u d i = B 6 W N H -4 P 7 1 8 M P -
2&_user=10&_rdoc=1&_fmt=&_orig=search&_sort=d&view=c&_a
cct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=
35aed501cb78a51ee0e649f7746280f8)
Yeah. Even the URL is too long. But all kidding aside,
there are: resupinata, resupinatum, and resupinatus. Supine
means lying on your back. So that makes sense. I mean
about the leaf.
The resupinate leaf of Alstroemeria.
(Photo by Christina Kriedt)
I used to be more familiar with Latin and Greek terms
and found that knowledge very useful, especially in school.
Most plants have descriptive names. Take Metasequoia
glyptostroboides (Dawn Redwood). Meta is Greek and means
among, with, after, or beyond; or it means together or near
(depends which source you use). Sequoia is for the
Cherokee scholar Sequoyah who developed a system for
transcribing the Cherokee language. Redwood trees are
named for him. Glypto is Greek for engraving, carving,
hollowing-out. Oides means resemblance. (Finding a
meaning for stro got too convoluted. I gave it up.) So when
the Dawn Redwood, which was thought to be extinct, was
June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS
discovered in China, it was named ‘Among or Near the
Man Sequoyah with Hollow Carvings that Resemble
Something’ or, more correctly, the tree that looks like a
redwood. The truth is, I don’t care at all what this
particular name means; I just like saying it: Metasequoia
glyptostroboides.
Of course, you know what monocots and dicots are;
and if a leaf doesn’t have a pedicel it’s okay because flowers
have pedicels and leaves have petioles. So the definition I
found for resupinate should read “of the pedicel or petiole.”
Then, to really confuse me, the photo I took of the
alstroemeria leaf suggests that there is no distinct petiole
(is it sessile?) and that the leaf twists. Okay, I give up.
Actually, before I gave up entirely, I found this
statement about the naming of the Metasequioa: “The tree
was given the name Metasequoia glyptostroboides by Hu &
Cheng. The generic name...was derived from the Greek
meta, meaning alike or akin, and Sequoia, the generic name
of the coast redwood, which the tree resembles. The
specific epithet, glyptostroboides, is a reference to the genus
Glyptostobus, the Chinese swamp cypress, with which the
tree was initially confused. The popular common name of
Dawn Redwood was a suggestion of Ralph W. Chaney, a
professor of paleobotany at the University of California,
Berkeley. The use of "dawn" in the name was an attempt to
emphasize the tree's early fossil record.” (A Reunion of Trees,
by Stephen A. Spongberg, Harvard Univ. Press, 1990. http://
oregonstate.edu/dept/ldplants/megl.htm).
The non-resupinate (aresupinate?) leaves of Metasequoia
(Photo from Wikipedia)
In case you were aching to know, Metasequoia leaves are:
“linear, flattened, straight or slightly curved, pectinately
arranged, obtusely pointed or shortly mucronate, tapering
abruptly towards the articulated junction of the lamina
with the decurrent base.” I knew that. Ï
References:
http://www.conifers.org/cu/me/index.htm
http://www.calflora.net/botanicalnames/index.html
http://davesgarden.com/guides/botanary/
http://roundrobin2001.0catch.com/audio.html
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 17

Glossary Relevant Internet

All definitions from Botany.com (http://www.botany.com/ ) Miscellany — Christina Kriedt 06
DECURRENT: Extending down the stem (i.e. a leaf with
“To harvest flowers for bouquets, carry a small
a base extending downward along the stem).
bucket filled with lukewarm water (not cold) out with
DICOTYLEDON: A plant that produces a newly emerged
you into the garden. Place stems of cut flowers directly
seedling with two seed leaves before it produces mature
into the bucket as soon as they are cut. Try to keep the
leaves. (Dicot)
bucket of flowers out of the sun as you pick. Cut stems
LAMINA: A thin plate or scale. Specifically, the blade or
with a sharp scissors or knife, and never yank their
expanded part of a leaf or petal.
stems or break them off with your fingers if you expect
MONOCOTYLEDON: A plant that produces a newly
them to last in a bouquet. A cleanly cut flower stem
emerged seedling with one seed leaf before it produces
(either cut straight or at an angle) allows plant cells in
mature leaves. (Monocot)
the stems to continue to circulate and take up water.”
MUCRONATE: Ending abruptly in a sharp point
Renee’s Garden website:
OBTUSE: Blunt or rounded at the extremity, as an obtuse
http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/bouquets.html Ï
leaf, sepal, or petal.
PECTINATE: Resembling a comb; divided nearly to the We should all be growing Carpenteria californica. It
base with narrow, close segments, as the leaves of some tolerates sun and shade and likes ’moderate neglect.’ It
ferns. needs some water only if rainfall is less than 20 inches
PEDUNCLE: A botanical term used to describe the stalk per year. The plant is drip-tolerant with good drainage
of a single flower, as in the tulip, or of a cluster of flowers, and loves to be three to four feet from a lawn. Did I
as in the Pelargonium. mention that the flowers are very beautiful?
RHIZOME: Thickened, branching, creeping storage http://www.laspilitas.com/plants/134.htm Ï
stems.
SESSILE: Leaves and other plant parts that have no stalk, “When honey bees swarm they will settle on a tree
but instead grow directly from the stem or peduncle of the limb, bush, or other convenient site. The cohesiveness
plant. of the swarm is due to their attraction to a pheromone
TEPAL: In some flowers, such as the tulip and begonia, produced by the queen. The swarm will send out scout
the calyx and corolla aren't clearly differentiated; the bees to seek a cavity to nest in and will move on when a
proper name for one of these petal-like parts is tepal. suitable nesting site is found.”
ZYGOMORPHIC: Bilaterally symmetrical, applied to a http://entomology.unl.edu/beekpg/beeswarm.shtml Ï
flower that has one or more unequal parts. Ï Someone sent me this heartwarming story in an
email. I couldn’t resist passing it on:
Renee’s Garden The Tomato Garden: An old Italian lived alone in
— List of Flowers for Bouquets New Jersey. He wanted to plant his annual tomato
http://www.reneesgarden.com/articles/bouquets.html garden, but it was very difficult work as the ground
was hard. His only son Vincent, who used to help him,
Amaranth Heliotrope was in prison.
Asclepias Hollyhocks The old man wrote a letter to his son and described
Bells of Ireland Larkspur his predicament: Dear Vincent, I am feeling pretty sad,
Bishop's Lace Marigold because it looks like I won't be able to plant my tomato
Buddleia Nigella garden this year. I'm just getting too old to be digging
Calendula Poppies up a garden plot. I know if you were here my troubles
Carnation Rehmannia would be over. I know you would be happy to dig the
Cathedral Bells Rose plot for me like in the old days. Love, Papa
Clarkia Salpiglossis A few days later he received a letter from his son:
Cleome Salvia Dear Pop, Don't dig up that garden. That's where the
Columbine Scabiosa bodies are buried. Love, Vinnie.
Cornflowers Snapdragon At 4 a.m. the next day FBI agents and local police
Cosmos Stock arrived and dug up the entire area without finding any
Delphinium Sunflowers bodies. They apologized to the old man and left.
Echinacea Sweet Peas Later that day the old man received another letter
Feverfew Sweet Willliam from his son: Dear Pop, Go ahead and plant the
Four O'Clocks Zinnias tomatoes now. That's the best I could do under the
Foxglove circumstances. Love you, Vinnie Ï
(Photo page 5 by Sharon Ettinger)
18 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

Advanced Training Opportunities

organization/
date day time class contact
website
June 7 Sat 10:00 MBMG Quarterly Meeting, UCCE - Filoli Slide Show MBMG linny@cruzio.com
mgracec@sbcglobal.net
7 Sat 11:00am First Saturday Tour of the Arboretum UCSC Arboretum
8 Sun 1:00pm Point Lobos Perimeter Hike CNPS Rosemary Foster
625-3083
July 17 & 18 Thu-Fri 11:00 – 2:00pm Plant Problem - Diagnosis & Becoming a 1st Detector UC Davis
23 & 24 Wed & Tilden Park, Berkeley -- Biology & Identification (Wed) Cal-IPC
Thu & Control Methods (Thu) of Invasive Plants
24 Thu 7:00pm Plant Collecting in Chile UCSC Arboretum

Aug 2 Sat 11:00am First Saturday Tour of the Arboretum UCSC Arboretum

Sept 6 Sat 11:00am First Saturday Tour of the Arboretum UCSC Arboretum

24-26 Wed- Statewide MG Conference Monterey Bay MGs

Fri
Mar 22-26 Sun- International MG Conference, Las Vegas Nevada MGs of Southern
2009 Thurs Nevada

Websites:
Native Revival Nursery http://www.nativerevival.com/about_us.html
UC Davis http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/calendar/eventdisplay.cfm?caleventnum=28913
Southern Nevada MGs http://www.extension.iastate.edu/story/news/09mgconf.htm
Love Apple Farm http://loveapplefarm.typepad.com/growbetterveggies/upcoming-eventsclasses.html
CNPS http://www.cruzcnps.org/events2.html
CA Native Garden Fund http://www.cruzcnps.org/events2.html
UC Davis Conference and Events Services http://www.cevs.ucdavis.edu/Cofred/Public/Aca/ConfHome.cfm?confid=34714
California Invasive Plant Council (Cal-IPC) www.cal-ipc.org/fieldcourses/index.php
UCSC Arboretum http://www2.ucsc.edu/arboretum/calendar.html

Volunteer Opportunities
Quail Hollow Ranch: Felton, Wednesdays 9:30-11:30, or as arranged. Contact Simon @ sistapleto@comcast.net
Homeless Garden Project: Natural Bridges Farm; 10-2 Thursday and Fridays at Natural Bridges Farm. Saturdays are
available upon request by contacting Paul at 423-1020 or e-mail at paulg@homelessgardenproject.org
Cooper Adobe Garden: workdays 10:00-noon on 1st and 3rd Wednesdays of month. Contact Marcia Smullen, 626-3519.
Other workdays can be arranged.
Seaside Green Team Project: workdays every 3rd Saturday 1:00 - 3:00 PM. Contact Mary Wilson, 393-0193
bluespud@pacbell.net, and ask to be placed on email reminder list.
Carmel Orchid Society: meets at 8:00 PM on the first Monday of each month, except May, September and December at:
First Presbyterian Church of Monterey, 501 El Dorado Street, Monterey.
Santa Cruz Orchid Society: monthly meeting at Live Oak Grange, 1900 17th Avenue, Santa Cruz at 8:00 PM on the first
Friday of each month. Orchid show and sale is in early February each year.
Monterey Bay Dahlia Society: meets second Friday of every month; 7:00 PM potluck dinner, 7:30 PM meeting. Simpkins
Swim Center, Community Room 979 - 17th Avenue, Santa Cruz
Monterey Bay Rose Society: meets the last Friday of the month at the Grange Hall, 2555 Mar Vista Drive, Aptos. Check
the web site (http://www.montereybayrosesociety.org/) for guest speaker information.
MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS Î June - July 2008 19

Thank you to all the

dedicated
Monterey Bay Master Gardeners G A R D E N I N G ON T H E ED G E
who share their knowledge and Newsletter of the Monterey Bay Master Gardeners
advice in our
EDITOR Christina Kriedt
epolls and articles
ASSISTANT EDITORS Sharon Ettinger & Kathleen Sonntag
DESIGN/LAYOUT Christina Kriedt

CONTRIBUTORS
Candice McLaren Paul McCollum Steve Tjosvold
Christina Kriedt Sharon Ettinger Tom Karwin
Cindy Lloyd Sharon Tyler
Claudia Boulton Simon Stapleton

STAFF
Bonnie Pond
Cynthia Jordan
Denise Weatherwax
Kari Olsen
Paul McCollum
Simon Stapleton
Tanja Roos
Tom Karwin Hotline: 831-763-8007
Copyright © 2008 MBMG. All rights reserved
20 June - July 2008 Î MONTEREY BAY MASTER GARDENERS

Visit Our Super Sponsors !

Sierra Azul Nursery, Watsonville, http://www.sierraazul.com, 763-0939,

email: sierraazulnursery@yahoo.com
Lumbermens, Santa Cruz, http://www.lumbermens.net/store_locator/zSearch.asp?
ZipSearchSubmit=1&State=CA, 423-0223, email: gardencenter@lumbermens.net
The Garden Company, Santa Cruz, http://www.thegardenco.com/, 429-8424
FezQ, Carmel Valley, 659-1268
Bokay, Salinas, http://www.bokaynursery.com/, 659-1268, email: jeff@bokaynursery.com
Hidden Gardens, Aptos, 688-7011
Wild Rose Landscape Design, Aptos, 539-5841, claudia@wildroselandscape.com