1. Introduction.

Peppers prefer hot weather. They are renowned in fiery cuisines of India, Thailand and
throughout the rest of the world. Peppers can be picked at any color stage, but are hottest
when fully ripened; bright red. Peppers are a warm-season vegetables. For optimum growth,
peppers require somewhat higher temperatures than tomatoes.

2. Varieties
Peppers. Some group different types of peppers together as some look alike and are
comparable in their extreme hotness. Ours is an Indian strain which through careful breeding
became Guinness record holder at over a million Scoville units, roughly twice as hot as the
previous record holder; the Red Savina . Warning: Direct consumption of these peppers can
be dangerous. Merely handling the seeds can cause irritation to the hands.

3. Starting Seeds
Peppers are difficult to grow. They are best started from seeds indoors in late winter roughly
6 to 8 weeks before they are to be set out and transplanted into the garden. Start pepper
plants indoors several weeks earlier than tomatoes; well before the last frost date. Pepper
seeds are infamous for slow germination, or germinating at different times. Even when grown
under optimal conditions, germination can be slow and irregular. It is not unusual for some
seeds to sprout weeks after the first ones. Some varieties may take more than 6 weeks or
longer to germinate; be patient. Try soaking seeds overnight in warm water to stimulate
germination or start them in moist paper towels, in plastic bags that aren't completely sealed .
Start pepper seeds in pre-moistened seed starting mix or light potting soil. To avoid soil-born
diseases clean commercial starting mix is recommended. Plant seeds flat, and then cover
lightly with soil or sow them 1/4-inch deep in 2-to 3-inch containers such as peat or
newspaper pots. To water, spray soil daily just enough to keep it moist. Keep planted seeds
in a well-lighted, warm area preferably under fluorescent lights and with subsoil heat. Seeds
germinate best above 65 degrees; Ideal germination temperature is 75 to 85 degrees. A
heated germination mat works well. Prevent seedlings from damping off by keeping soil damp
but not wet to saturation, and by providing good air circulation. Do not water from below, as
this can adversely affect germination.

Transplant in spring only after soil and air have warmed and weather is warm and settled.
Seedlings or plants cannot tolerate frost and do not grow well in cold, wet soil. If night
temperatures fall below 50° to 55°F, plants may be stunted and grow slowly, leaves may turn
yellow, and flowers to drop off. Black plastic mulch and/or floating row covers may be used to
advantage to warm soil and enhance early spring growing conditions; or whenever cool
weather threatens. Transplant seedlings, as soon as they are large enough to handle, into
flats, 2 to 3 inches apart or individually in small pots. Once plants are roughly five inches tall
and nighttime temperature is above 60ºF, harden the plants off by slowly acclimatizing them to
the garden. Keep plants shaded at first to avoid sun scald and finally transplant to a garden
location in full sun. For best results, do not plant peppers seeds directly outside. More sun
and less water are known to increase flavor and heat intensity. Feed seedlings with half-
strength water-soluble nitrogen fertilizer every two weeks. Plants mature in 100 days.

4. Planting
Hardened-off seedlings may be planted outdoors two to three weeks after the last frost when
the soil temperature has reached 60 degrees F. peppers need full sun, warm rich soil
(amended with compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold) and good drainage. PH 6 to 7 is
preferred. When peppers begin to produce flower buds, pinch them off and continue to do
this for the first 1 to 2 weeks in order to force plants to develop leaves and a strong root
system. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic matter or black/clear plastic to keep weed growth
down, and to maintain soil moisture and temperature. peppers spread and have brittle
branches. In order to work the rows without damaging the plants, plant them in rows 5-6 feet
apart. In-row spacing should be 16-18 inches so they can support each other. Peppers do
well in raised beds.

5. Agronomy
Peppers thrive in a well-drained, fertile pH neutral soil well supplied with moisture. Use a
starter fertilizer when transplanting. Work a moderate amount of compost or manure into the
soil, then dust the soil surface with a fine layer of Epsom salts and work it into the soil to
provide magnesium, which peppers need for good development. Mulch around the peppers to
keep down weeds, retain moisture, and help to feed the plant. Plastic mulch increases soil
temperature and may help to increase yields. Apply supplemental fertilizer (side-dressing)
after the first flush of peppers is set. A uniform moisture supply is essential with peppers,
especially during harvest season, irrigate during dry periods. Spread compost or a balanced
organic fertilizer around plants when they flower and again three weeks later. As peppers
develop, switch over to a fertilizer higher in Phosphorous and Potassium. Gardeners often
make the mistake of providing too much nitrogen which results in great looking bushy, green
plants with few fruit.

Keep the plants lightly moist, but not soggy wet. Too dry soil may prevent fruit set or cause
abortion of small immature fruits. Pull any weeds as they appear. Feed plants with an all-
purpose water-soluble fertilizer. Peppers generally need about the same level of care as
Tomatoes, but they are more vulnerable to cold. Peppers need to be grown in soil that will not
dry out quickly and is supplied with plenty of organic matter. Cultivate the surface of the soil
often to get rid of weeds, but not so deeply that roots are harmed. Peppers will bear
throughout the summer as long as fruits are picked regularly.

Peppers are self pollinators. Occasionally, they will cross pollinate from pollen carried by bees
or other insects. If you are going to save seeds for next year, you need to minimize any
possibility for cross pollinating. Do not plant different varieties near each other.

6. Growing in Containers
Peppers can be grown in containers. Use containers that are rust-resistant and have holes in
the bottom for drainage. Plastic pots are inexpensive, lightweight, durable, easy to disinfect,
and easy to move around. Other types of plastic containers with handles may be used for
larger and heavier plants. When planting in containers, use porous, well-drained soil. Liquid
fertilizer may be applied occasionally to prevent the leaves from yellowing. Don't over water;
by keeping the soil a bit on the dry side, bushier and more compact plants will form. Plants
usually don't need pinching, but if any shoots seem to stray, they may be pinched. Peppers
must have full sun all the time. During hot weather, they may be kept in a greenhouse or
outside buried up to their rims in the garden. They must be brought inside before cold weather
sets in. Fertilize after transplanting and again if the plants start to look pale or the leaves are
small.

7. Harvesting
Fruits may be harvested at any size desired. Mature fruits easily break from the plant. Less
damage is done to the plants, however, if fruits are cut rather than pulled off. Hot peppers are
usually harvested at the red-ripe stage. To increase yields, harvest some fruit when it is in the
mature green stage (just before it turns red). Peppers stop setting fruit when plants are loaded
so harvesting mature green fruit encourages plants to continue producing. Peppers are green
when unripe and turn red when fully ripe. If left on the bush, virtually all peppers will turn red.
Carefully remove peppers using clippers, as branches of pepper plants are brittle and tend to
break off readily.

8. Drying
Keep peppers in a warm dry place or dehydrator until brittle dry. Individual fruits can be
picked and strung in a "ristras" or entire plants can be pulled in the fall, before frost, and hung
in an outbuilding or basement to dry. To avoid painful irritation, always exercise caution when
handling hot varieties. Plastic or rubber gloves may be helpful when picking or handling
peppers fruits.

9. Saving Seeds
Harvest only fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most peppers turn red when fully mature.) If frost
threatens before peppers mature, pull entire plant and hang in cool, dry location to allow
peppers to mature. There are two methods, dry or wet, to harvest pepper seeds. The dry
method is adequate for small numbers of peppers. Cut bottoms off the fruit and carefully strip
seeds surrounding the core. Seeds usually need no further cleaning. To process seed from
large amounts of peppers, first cut off the tops just below the stem. Fill a blender with
peppers and water and gently blend to separate seeds. Healthy seed will sink to the bottom
while pepper debris and immature seeds will float and can be skimmed off. Spread cleaned
seeds on a paper towel and allow them to air-dry. When seed is fully dry it will break when
folded. Dried seed should be stored in a cool, dry, place. Seed should remain viable for at
least two to three years if stored properly.

10. Storing and Preserving

Store dried peppers in airtight containers. If meal moths are a problem, store peppers in
zipper-style freezer bags in the freezer.
Freezing peppers. Simply wash and dry the peppers, remove the stems and seeds and chop
as desired. Pack into freezer bags, containers, or canning jars. Be sure to label and date each
package. Peppers will keep in your freezer for 3 to 6 months.

Pickled peppers
4 lbs. hot long red, green, or yellow peppers
3 lbs. sweet red and green peppers
5 c. vinegar 5%
1 c. water
4 tbsp. canning or pickling salt
2 tbsp. sugar
2 clove garlic
If small peppers are left whole, slash 1 1/2 to 2 slits in each. Quarter large peppers. Blanch in
boiling water and peel. Cool. Flatten small peppers. Fill jars leaving 1/2 inch head space.
Combine and heat other ingredients to boiling and simmer 10 minutes. Remove garlic. Add
hot pickling solution over peppers, leaving 1/2 inch head space. Adjust lids and process.
Process in boiling water canner for 15 minutes for half pints, or pints.
Makes 9 pints.

Basic Hot Pepper Sauce

3 c Distilled white vinegar
2 lb peppers seeded and chopped
2 ts Salt
Simmer vinegar, salt and peppers at least 5 minutes. Process. Store in a glass bottle. Put in a
dark cabinet and let age at least 3 months. Strain when ready to use.

11. Diseases and Pests

Peppers are generally quite healthy although pests are an occasional problem. Damp-off is
the arch-enemy of any gardener trying to grow plants from seed. Damping-off is fairly easy to
spot – stems of healthy new seedlings suddenly begin to rot at the soil line for no apparent
reason! Damping-off is caused by a fungus, and can be spread through contaminated soil or
pots. It is typically more of a problem for younger seedlings. Avoid damping-off by always
using clean seed starting mix for planting seeds. Do not re-use old pots for planting new
seeds without first disinfecting them by washing in sudsy water containing bleach. If peat pots
are over watered and get soggy they quickly begin to support growth of damping-off mold.
Excessive humidity favors development of mold. Although high humidity is good for seed
sprouting, it favors development of damping-off of sprouted seeds. If seeds were germinated
under a plastic cover, it must be removed as soon as seedlings begin to emerge. Green
aphids are always a nagging problem. They quickly weaken and deform plants. More
importantly, aphids sometimes spread viruses. The most common is tobacco mosaic virus,
which causes mottled yellow leaves and misshapen fruits. Because there are no cures for
viruses, infected plants must be destroyed to prevent further spread of disease. Prevent virus
diseases from spreading by using insecticide soap sprays to control aphids.