WAVE THEORY STOKES FIFTH ORDER

Stokes wave is a non-linear and periodic surface wave on an inviscid fluid layer of constant
mean depth.
Stokes' wave theory is of direct practical use for waves on intermediate and deep water. It is
used in the design of coastal and offshore structures, in order to determine the wave
kinematics (free surface elevation and flow velocities). The wave kinematics are
subsequently needed in the design process to determine the wave loads on a structure. For
long waves (as compared to depth) and using only a few terms in the Stokes expansion its
applicability is limited to waves of small amplitude. In such shallow water, a cnoidal wave
theory often provides better periodic-wave approximations.
While, in the strict sense, Stokes wave refers to progressive periodic waves of permanent
form, the term is also used in connection with standing waves and even for random waves.

Apparent Wave Period. A current in the wave direction tends to stretch the wave length,
while an opposing current shortens it. For the simple case of a wave propagating on a
uniform in-line current, the apparent wave period seen by an observer moving with the
current can be estimated from Figure 2.3.1-2, in which T is the actual wave period (as seen by
a stationary observer).

VI is the current component in the wave direction, d, is storm water depth (including
storm surge and tide), and g is the acceleration of gravity. This figure provides estimates for
d/gT2 > 0.01. For smaller values of d/gT2, the equation (Tapp/T) = 1 + VI gd can be
used. While strictly applicable only to a current that is uniform over the full water depth,
Figure 2.3.1-2 provides acceptable estimates of Tapp for slab current profiles that are
uniform over the top 165 ft (50m) or more of the water column. For other current profiles, a
system of simultaneous nonlinear equations must be solved interactively to determine Tapp
(see Commentary). The current used to determine Tapp should be the free-stream current (not
reduced by structure blockage).
Two-Dimensional Wave Kinematics. For the apparent wave period Tapp, specified wave
height H, and storm water depth, d, two-dimensional regular wave kinematics can be
calculated using the appropriate order of Stream Function wave theory. In many cases, Stokes
V wave theory will produce acceptable accuracy. Figure 2.3.1-3 Atkins (1990) shows the
regions of applicability of Stokes V and various orders of Stream Function solutions in the
H/gTapp2, d/gTapp2 plane. Other wave theories, such as Extended Velocity Potential and
Chappelear, may be used if an appropriate order of solution is selected.

Wave Kinematics Factor. The two-dimensional regular wave kinematics from Stream
Function or Stokes V wave theory do not account for wave directional spreading or
irregularity in wave profile shape. These real world wave characteristics can be
approximately modeled in deterministic wave analyses by multiplying the horizontal
velocities andaccelerations from the two-dimensional regular wave solution by a wave
kinematics factor. Wave kinematics measurements support a factor in the range 0.85 to 0.95
for tropical storms and 0.95 to 1.00 for extra-tropical storms.. The Commentary provides
additional guidance for calculating the wave kinematics factor for particular sea states whose
directional spreading characteristics are known from measurements or hindcasts.

APPLICATION OF THEORY

Calculation of Wave Number k.-The solution for steady waves has been presented in
the foregoing in terms of the two dimensionless quan-tities e = kH/2 = 7T H/>.., and kd =
27rd/>... If the waveheight, H, wave-length, >.., and water depth, d, are known, both e
and kd can be calcu-lated and the solution obtained. Often, however,the wave period, T,
rather than the wave length is known initially, and often it is desirable to calculate the
unsteady water velocities in a frame through which the wavesaremoving. In either of
these situations it is necessary to know thewave speed, c, by measurement or from the
following theory. It should be remembered that the theory it self can only predict thespeed
at which the waves travel relative to a frame in which there is zero current. The wave
speed relative to a physical frame of interest, such as the seabed,is determined by physical
quantities externalto the present solution, such as the current or the mass flux. The
apparent period in that frame is a Doppler-shifted period. If neither the current nor the
mass flux nor the wave speed is known, then it is theoretically inconsistent and
practicallya waste of time to use any theories other than the lowest order.