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A rubber-powered amphibian.

The Duck takes off easily from water. The

landing gear folds upward for water flying, is Right-The ship is light but strong.
locked in place by rubber band. Assembly is easy.

The hull, tail, and engine nacelle are cut

from sheet balsa. Consequently,
performance is better then would be

With the exception of the multimotored The main problems are to secure a
ships, an amphibian is regarded as one of the normal length of concealed rubber line, safe prop
toughest to adapt for rubber power. The clearance with a normal size prop, and an easily
numerous problems in designing which pop up retractable landing gear for water take-offs.
here and there are all out of the ordinary and In the past few years I have made several
even the necessary flying adjustments seem to attempts to produce a good flying amphibian, but
go against one's previous experiences. for some reason they all wound up far too
complicated to attract the average builder. The sides and trimmed after. The whole top can be
first models had a regular crankshaft made easily out of one piece, but the front end of
transmission with the propeller constantly the bottom requires four pieces. Two pieces
shaving the imaginary pilot's head in the open between formers FC and FB, and from FB to the
cockpit. Later on a single universal joint would very nose, two other pieces, with the grain
do, but at the same time it would scare away the running right-angle to them, are required.
interested builder. Trim and sandpaper the edges smooth.
And then came the "Duck." Now dope a strip of tissue along each corner to
There are no mechanical gadgets to coax cover up and strengthen the joints. Proceed to
into action here, which, while taking most of the cut out all the openings. Cutting the window
romance out of it, places this amphibian within shapes out of a different color tissue and doping
the ability of the average sport modeler. in their places on the body makes the
The unusual features are the razor-blade work easier and neater. Next the
tissue-covered sheet balsa body and tail for landing-gear struts are bent. Do not forget to slip
waterproofing, the built-in upthrust to overcome the aluminum tubings on first. They are glued on
the tendency of diving, and a very simple FB (several coats) through the side windows.
retractable landing gear. Now you can cover the windows with
And now you may ask the often-heard celluloid, fasten small hooks for the landing-gear
question: But how does it fly, mister? rubber bands, also the two straight wires through
Excellent, my dear chappie. But definitely. the top which hold the rubber bands for the
BODY AND NACELLE The wheels and water rudder are made of
The body and nacelle are made of 1/32" light balsa and waterproofed by several coats of
soft sheet balsa. First cut out two of No. 1 and dope.
No. 3 blanks and one of No. 2 blank. Now cover The slight bulge of the nacelle sides is the
these with Jap tissue on one side. Make sure result of an extra coat of dope on the uncovered
that a left and right blank is obtained of each insides. First the top seam is pinned and
twin. In addition to these cover a whole sheet of cemented, then the bottom former FE and the
1/32 x 2" the same way to provide for the top solid balsa front piece are added. Two wire pins
and bottom of the body. The best way to cover fix the nacelle to the body. Place the nacelle in
with tissue is to brush dope on the whole position on top of the body and press lightly to
surface, lay an oversize tissue on top and mark the position of the pins. Now enlarge the
smooth out with the palm of the hand. To two holes and glue a square piece of sheet
counteract the strong warping tendency a coat of aluminum, also punctured, to coincide with the
dope should follow on the other side, and when holes.
both sides are dry the tissue is trimmed with a The two-piece nose plug is fitted and
razor blade. carved to shape. The bearing is a copper washer
Now prepare the four formers (FA, FB, and small bushing in the front and rear of the
FC, FD). FA is a triangular block of wood forming nose plug. Cut the propeller out of medium-hard
the nose of the body. Cement the rear hook on balsa. Waterproof with a couple of coats of dope,
FD before assembling the two sides. First pin colored or otherwise. Fit in the same bearings as
and cement the two sides to FA. When the glue on the nose plug, and make sure that it is
has set put the other formers in one by one and equipped with your choicest freewheeling.
lastly pull the top of the tail together and cement. Use six strands of 1/8" flat rubber for
Bottom blank No. 3 is fitted in between the two motive power. It is important to lubricate the
sides, thereby shaping the bottom of the boat rubber, because going through the body it
from the step on. sometimes rubs slightly on the wood. For this
All the other pieces needed for the body reason the rubber should be put in the body and
are just oversize pieces of wood glued on to the the prop tried for smooth run. If too much
vibration results the cause may lie in too small a With the tail surfaces fixed in place, the
hole on top of the body or bottom of the nacelle. center of gravity should fall to a spot five inches
Or a too-large hook on prop shaft striking the from the nose. Set the wing so that this spot
sides of the nacelle will cause uneven run. coincides with the wing spar, not forgetting the
proper incidence and dihedral.
Cut out ten ribs, two of which are 1/4" FLYING
thick. These are placed first as wing roots, and A rough adjustment can be accomplished
later on carved to fit the side of the nacelle. The indoors, in the cellar, or even a large-size room
wing is made in two halves. Fix the two end ribs with pillows placed at the probable landing spot.
of each wing to the leading and trailing edges Ten feet of gliding is ample distance to show a
and set the remainder and the spar in after. stalling or diving tendency. Warp the elevator
Bend a 1/4" wide bamboo into the shape of the flippers to correct anything but a flat glide. Do not
tip above the gas range and slice two 1/16"-thick rush outdoors regardless of the weather; wait for
pieces off with a knife. Upon finishing the wing a calm hour and save yourself a lot of trouble.
frames, cover them with tissue, spray with water For outdoor adjustment I recommend 1/16" right
and dope once. rudder and an equal amount of right thrust on the
The tail surfaces are of 1/32" sheet balsa. nose plug. Wound to capacity, which is four
Cut out the exact shape and smooth the surface hundred turns, it will take off from water or land
with fine sandpaper. Cover both sides with tissue alike.
the same way as the body has been.

(Soft balsa throughout)
2 sheets 1/32 x 3 x 36"
1 sheet 1/16 x 2 x 36"
1 prop block 6 x 1 x 3/4"
1 length bamboo 1/4 x 15"
Small blocks for nose plug, nose of hull, bottom of
nacelle Wire bushings, aluminum tubing and washers

Scanned From August 1939

Air Trails