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Textile Today
In the textile industry various types of bres like co on, viscose, polyester, nylon, wool, silk etc are
available and they are mainly divided into two types based upon their production procedure i.e.
1. Natural Fibres
2. Manmade bres
Similarly based on the components used for their production they are divided in to various types like
1. Synthetic Fibres
2. Cellulosic bres etc.
These cellulosic bres are further subdivided into mainly two types based on their production procedure:
1. Natural Cellulosic bre like co on
2. Regenerated Cellulosic bres Like Viscose, Modal etc.
Each type of bre has its own properties or characteristics USPs based on which they are used in the
textile industry in various segments in various products as per requirement.These bres can be converted
in to yarn through various spinning systems like Ring spinning, Airjet spinning, Worsted spinning etc
depending upon the bre type and required end product i.e. fabric. The most common spinning
technology is Ring Spinning. Based upon the inherent properties of bre like frictional properties of bre,
bre length, bre neness, impurities present in the bre etc the various machines in the Ring spinning
has some role to play to produce a perfect product we call it as Dos and there are some activities which
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can aect the product quality even from a best bre and which these machines should not do we call it as
Donts and these may happen due to
1. Wrong selection of machine like blow room etc
2. Wrong selection of machine equipments like beating points in Blow room or Card wires etc
3. Wrong selection of Process parameters like Beater speeds, various speeds in card, various gauges and
se ings etc.
For a perfect product quality proper selection of all the above parameters is very important based upon the
bre to bre blends to be spun so that each process involved in the spinning sequence can play its role
perfectly to give the best output. The Dos and Donts of during various processes of yarn spinning of
Regenerated cellulosic bres are as follow:
Mixing and Blow room machine
What Blow room should do
To open the bre in the bale form to small tu s of bre rst by Hand Preopening and then through
blender/opener which will allow the impurities to be separated and prepare the material the material
for next process of Carding
To use proper antistatic and lubricant oil as secondary nish in case of 100% blend and proper cohesive
agent in case of blends in proper concentration with water for smooth working of bre in further
processes.
To condition the opened material for 24 hrs with required atmospheric conditions.
To clean the bre by removing the impurities like fused bre/chips or bre crimp etc. and seeds/seed
coats etc. in case of co on blends.
To blend or mix the various component bres of mixing thoroughly to get a uniform/homogeneous
mixing
To prepare a uniform and proper sheet of bres Lap for further process i.e. Carding OR
To prepare and feed a material to chute feed system with proper tu size.
What Blow room should not do
The good spinnable bres going as waste during removal of impurities should be minimum.
The bres should not be over beaten or over treated to look rolled or stringy.
Same type of secondary spin nish with similar percentage and concentration should not be used for
all type of bre blends
Blow room should not increase or generate the neps as far as possible
The bre should not get contaminated with any oil or oily substance or any other foreign bre/material.
In case of lap feeding system the lap layers should not stick to each other while unwinding at card
known as Lap Licking.
Carding Machine
What Carding should do
The main role of carding machine is opening and individualization of bre
To remove the impurities like foreign ma ers in the bre as waste like fused bres or chips etc in case
of regenerated cellulosic bre and sand/dust etc in case of co on blends.
To remove the neps present in the lap or material from the Blow room and which are formed in carding
machine presumably by disentangling them or by removing them as waste.
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To form a continuous inform strand of bre known as sliver of required neness and evenness from the
carded bres
What Carding should not do
Carding should not break the bres in large numbers i.e. bre rupture.
Carding should not increase the neps generation
Carding should not remove or good spinnable bre as waste or droppings under licker-in or cylinder or
doer etc.
Draw Frame Machine
What Draw frame should do
To parallelize the criss crossed bres of the card sliver with one another and to align them to the bre
axis through dra ing process
To remove the hooks from carded bres and to straighten the bres by sliding them over one another
during dra ing process.
To improve the unevenness or regularity of bre in weight per unit length over a considerable length of
material with required neness through proper doubling and dra ing a number of sliver from dierent
cards.
To mix thoroughly dierent types of bres so as to deliver a homogenous bended material
To lay the sliver in cans with uniform coils forming a clear central hole.
What Draw Frame should not do
It should not produce the sliver of dierent neness from machine to machine for the same material.
It should not produce any cuts in the material
It should not take out or remove good bres as waste during suction
Machine should not run when any of the feed slivers runs out or breaks or fails to reach the delivery
rollers due to any other cause.
Speed Frame
What Speed frame should do
It dra the draw frame sliver to form roving with required neness
To twist the dra ed strand of bre to a minimum level so as to provide it strength to with stand the
stretch in further process without creating and thin and thick places in the yarn.
To wind the roving on to bobbins to a desired length as per requirement.
What Speed frame should not do
It should not create excessive irregularity in the roving
It should not create slubs in the roving which leads to slub formation in yarn
To should not create hank dierence front and back row of bobbins due any reason like dierence in
tension etc
It should not cause marked trend in hank over the build of motion.
It should not spoil the build of package.
Ring Frame
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< 40s Ne
40s Ne 60s Ne
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Viscose
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1.5 X 44
1.2 X 38 / 40
1.2 X 38 / 40
0.9 X 38
Viscose Plus
1.2 X 38
Modal
1.2 X 38
1.2 X 38
0.9 x 38
0.9 X 38
Excel
1.5 X 38
1.2 X 38
1.2 X 38
1.2 X 38
Co on Fibre for Co on Blends
Count Range
30s 40s
40s Ne 60s Ne
Variety
Sankar 6,
Sankar 4,
MCU 6
MCU 7,
MCU 5
DCH 32
LRA
Suvin
Fineness ( g/inch)
3.0 3.4
3.6 4.2
2.7 3.1
26 28
28 30
32 34
Strength (gm/tex)
22 24
24-26
26-29
< 40s Ne
40s Ne 60s Ne
1.4 X 44 / 1.2 x
44mm
1.2 X 38
1.2 X 38 / 1.1 x 38
Other manmade staple bres can be selected in commensurate with Polyester bre
General Spinning Parameters:
Blending / Mixing / Blow Room
For 100% Regenerated Cellulose Fibres
Conditioning
Temperature : 27 C
Humidity : 65% RH
Hours for Conditioning : 24 hrs
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Spin Finish
Incase of Excel bre more preopening is required due to its inherent frictional properties hence it requires
3 beating points
For Regenerated Cellulose Blends with Co on
Conditioning
Temperature : 27 C
Humidity : 65% RH
Hours for Conditioning : 24 hrs
Blending Process
Other Parameters
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Spin Finish
Temperature : 27 C
Humidity : 65% RH
Hours for Conditioning : 24 hrs
Blending Process
Other Parameters
Spin Finish
<30s (Ne)
40s 50s
60s 80s
Licker In Speed(rpm)
850
850
850
Cylinder Speed(rpm)
360
360
360
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Flat Speed(mm/min)
222
222
222
Cylinder to Flats
Guage(thou)
12/12/12/12/12/12
12/12/12/12/12/12
12/12/12/12/12/12
Sliver Hank
0.120
0.140
0.160
130
110
80
Incase of Excel Fibre the carding parameters will be dierent due to its inherent properties and are as
follows:
Final Yarn Count
<30s (Ne)
40s 50s
60s 80s
Licker In Speed(rpm)
1050
1050
1050
Cylinder Speed(rpm)
450
450
450
Flat Speed(mm/min)
322
322
322
Cylinder to Flats
Guage(thou)
10/10/10/10/10/10
10/10/10/10/10/10
10/10/10/10/10/10
Sliver Hank
0.120
0.140
0.160
130
110
80
For Co on Blends with Regenerated Cellulosic bre 10% reduced speed is recommended for ner hanks
Card Wire Specication
PPSI
Height (mm)
Cylinder
720
2.5
0.7
Licker In
4 TPI
5.5
Doer
388
4.0
.85
Flat
330 400
<30s (Ne)
40s 50s
60s 80s
Sliver Hank
0.120
0.160
0.180
Gauge Finisher
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<30s
40s 50s
60s
80s
Sliver Hank
0.9
1.6
1.8
2.0
Twist
Multiplier
100% Viscose
(44mm)
0.9
100%Viscose,
Modal
0.9 0.95
Co onBlends
1.1
Excel
0.9
Polyester
Blends
0.8
Gauge
< 38 mm
47 / 55
303
> 38 mm
60/65
1200
1000
30s
40s 50s
60s
80s
Twist
Multiplier
100% Viscose
(44mm)
3.2
100%Viscose,
Modal
3.4
3.6
3.6
3.8
Co onBlends
3.8
4.0
4.0
4.0 4.2
Excel
3.5 3.6
3.6
3.6
3.8
Polyester
Blends
(38mm)
3.1
3.2
3.4
3.5
Gauge
< 38 mm
42.5/60
42.5/60
303
> 38 mm
54/65
17000
15000 16000
CATEGORY:
FIBRE, SPINNING
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