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A COMPARATIVE STUDY ON EGYPTIAN CARDED, COMBED

COMPACT YARNS AND COMBED RING YARNS


BY
Prof Dr. Magdy El Messiry1, Dr. Naglaa Hosny and Eng. Ghada Esmat
Textile Eng. Department, Faculty of Engineering, Alexandria University, Egypt
mmessiry@yahoo.com

Abstract
The compact spinning has found a wide market in the last decade. Several systems are
introduced to produce such yarns which have better physical and mechanical properties
than the ring spinning. All the systems for the production of compact spun yarns consist
of a modification of the drafting system on the ring spinning machine, so that the
spinning triangle dimensions decreases. The properties of compact spinning were
thoroughly investigated by several researchers. The results of their studies indicated that
compact spun yarn strength is higher by about 15% and elongation at break by about
20%. Furthermore, the yarn hairiness becomes 70% less, and the coefficient of variation
of the yarn was lower by 15% than that for the equivalent ring spun yarn. Compact spun
yarns had better abrasion resistance. These advantages can reflect on the downstream
processing. Fabric properties in terms of breaking strength, breaking elongation and tear
strength are also better with the compact spun yarns. Clinging tendency of compact yarn
shows considerably fewer and less pronounced clinging phenomena. Lower clinging
tendency of the yarn results in the improvement of the warp yarn separation. This reduces
the cost of sizing and subsequent desizing, and at the same time, resulting in less
environmental pollution. Despite the lower degree of sizing, thread break rates are lower,
which significantly improves loom efficiency, and fabric appearance. In this work a
comparative study has been carried out to investigate if the compact fine ply carded yarn
spun from Egyptian cotton G86 will have better quality than combed ring spun yarns.
The results indicate that through the adjusting the production speed of the carding
machine the carded compact yarns for the counts up to Ne 80/2 give better quality in
comparison to the combed ring spun yarns.
Key words: Compact yarns, carded yarns, combed yarns, ring spun yarns.

Introduction
Quality and quality management are the key words used in our time; cost and quality are
the most important factors for any company. The raw material cost in a spinning mill
reaches up to 60% of the production cost. Several researchers (1-5) show the possibility
to use a compact spinning to improve the quality of the yarns produced from short staple
cotton fibers in order to get use of the improvement in the compact yarn properties (6-9).
The study of results (10-16) indicated that compact spun yarn strength was found to be
higher by about 15% and elongation at break by about 20%. Furthermore, the yarn
hairiness becomes 70% less, and the coefficient of variation of the yarn was lower by
15% than that for the equivalent ring spun yarn
The goal of this work is to make best use of compact spinning in order to taking the
advantage of compact yarn structure in processing of carded compact ply yarns instead of
comber ring ply yarn. A comparative study of the physical and mechanical properties of
ply yarn produced from the Egyptian cotton G86 on the three systems is studied.

Experimental
A set of the experimental trials was performed to study the effect of carding production
speed on compact yarn quality. Compact yarns of count Ne 50/1, 60/1, 80/1 using
Egyptian cotton G.86 were spun on K44 RIETER spinning compact machine from
slivers processed at different carding machine production speeds (40, 60, 80 and 100
m/min). The slivers are combed at 20% noiles and processed into ply compact yarns and
ring spun yarn of count 50/2, 60/2 and 80/2. Another set of trials was made to produce
similar compact plied yarns from carded slivers processed at different carding production
speed.

Results and discussion


Effect of carding machine production speed
Figures from (1) to (21) show the properties of single carded compact yarns obtained at
different carding machine production speeds varied from 50 to 100 m/min for yarn
counts Ne 50/1, 60/1, 80/1.

From the analysis of the results of the different single yarn properties, it can be seen that
as the carding machine production speed increases, the yarn imperfections are reduced
and the tenacity and elongation increased. This may be due to that the design of modern
carding machine has a higher number of wires on the carding cylinder which leads to
significantly lower acting carding forces on the fibers during processing compared to
conventional carding systems. The forces prevailing between the cylinder and the flat
wires have a major impact on the possibility of increasing productivity without the
deterioration of the sliver quality. The analysis of results show that compact spinning
made possible the production of carded yarns up to count Ne 80/1 from G.86.
Also the carded compact yarns have significantly lower hairiness than conventional
yarns, while for yarn tensile properties, carded yarns which were produced at higher
carding machine production speed have higher tenacity and elongation than combed yarn
spun on the conventional ring spinning frame. This is most likely because that the fiber
extent is increased at high carding production speed, which leads to maximizing the
effect reduction of spinning triangle on the compact spinning machine, i.e. enables more
fibers to be embedded to the yarn body. On the other hand yarn evenness and thin places
of carded compact yarns are of the same level of conventional ring spun yarns up to yarn
count Ne 60/1. Thick places and neps seems to be a problem when producing fine single
carded compact yarn because the combing processes in addition to removing short fibers,
the combing operation increases the fiber separation, eliminates many impurities
remaining in the sliver after the carding process, thus neps and seed- coat fragments
(SCFs) are reduced resulting in more yarn evenness and less imperfections.

Effect of plying compact carded yarn


In order to study the reflection of the above results on the ply yarns, a set of trials was
carried out to produce ply yarns from combed and carded slivers at carding speed 100
m/min on conventional ring spinning machine and compact machine. The results of
testing of the produced different ply yarns properties are given in Tables [1], [2], and [3]
.

Table [1] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compact
yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 50/2)

SPINNING
SYSTEM

Compact
System
K44 RIETER

Conventional
Ring
spinning
system

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

COTTON TYPE

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

YARN TYPE

COMBED

COMBED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

100

100

40

60

80

100

3.6
29.00
5.40
8.25
0
2.5
1
3.75
50/2

3.6
21.94
4.88
10.49
0
5
9.5
6.4
50/2

3.6
24.69
5.16
10.38
0
8
9
4.88
50/2

3.6
25.86
5.22
10.43
0
8.5
5.5
4.76
50/2

3.6
25.86
5.45
10.33
0
7
3
4.38
50/2

3.6
25.16
5.36
9.92
0
6.5
3
4.51
50/2

YARN
PROPERTIES

CARDING
SPEED(m/min)
TWIST FACTOR
TENACITY(g/tex)
ELONGATION%
C.V m%
THIN PLACES/ KM
THICK PLACES/ KM
NEPS/ KM
HAIRINESS
YARN COUNT(Ne)

Table [2] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compact
yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 60/2)
SPINNING
SYSTEM

YARN
PROPERTIES
COTTON TYPE
YARN TYPE
CARDING
SPEED(m/min)
TWIST FACTOR
TENACITY(g/tex)
ELONGATION%
C.V m%
THIN PLACES/ KM
THICK PLACES/ KM
NEPS/ KM
HAIRINESS
YARN COUNT(Ne)

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Conventional
Ring
spinning
system

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

COMBED

COMBED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

100
4.747
28.52
5.67
8.50
0
1
1
4.22
60/2

100
4.747
24.33
5.06
11.15
3
8.5
15.3
6.68
60/2

40
4.747
23.07
4.82
11.22
0
7.5
10.8
4.77
60/2

60
4.747
25.74
5.06
10.69
0
9
10
4.64
60/2

80
4.747
26.78
5.10
10.64
0
8
13.5
4.48
60/2

100
4.747
27.40
5.24
10.47
0
7.5
12.5
4.53
60/2

Table [3] Comparison between properties of different plied yarn (combed compact
yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn of count Ne 80/2)

SPINNING
SYSTEM

YARN
PROPERTIES

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Conventional
Ring
spinning
system

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

Compact
System
K44
RIETER

COTTON TYPE

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

GIZA 86

COMBED

COMBED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

CARDED

100
4.217
27.92
4.81
9.66
0
1.5
3
3.74
80/2

100
4.217
23.64
4.75
10.70
0
5
8
4.96
80/2

40
4.217
23.47
4.30
12.15
0
29
32
4.74
80/2

60
4.217
23.79
4.23
12.01
0
26
32
4.65
80/2

80
4.217
23.93
4.52
11.75
0
21
32
4.51
80/2

100
4.217
24.34
4.31
11.67
0
16
37
4.46
80/2

YARN TYPE
CARDING
SPEED(m/min)
TWIST FACTOR
TENACITY(g/tex)
ELONGATION%
C.V m%
THIN PLACES/ KM
THICK PLACES/ KM
NEPS/ KM
HAIRINESS
YARN COUNT(Ne)

Figures (22) to (25) shows a comparison between properties of different plied yarns
(combed compact yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn). The
analysis of the results indicates that in the case of combed compact ply yarns, cotton G.86
can be processed to produce ply yarn up to count Ne 80/2 from carded single compact
yarn at Uster quality level 5% (combed compact yarn levels).
Carded compact yarns of the counts Ne 50/2, Ne 60/2 have significantly higher tenacity
and elongation than conventional ring combed spun yarns. For their yarn evenness and
imperfections, it is observed that there is a considerable decrease in plied carded compact
yarn than in plied combed conventional yarn. This may be due to the effect of winding
process which removes appreciable percentage of the yarn imperfections. However, for
Ne 80/2 carded compact yarn it has less hairiness and higher tenacity than conventional
ring spun combed yarn. Although the yarn imperfections of Ne 80/2 compact carded yarn
are significantly higher than that of plied combed conventional yarn, but it is still has a
quality level at Uster quality level 5% (combed ring spun yarn levels). It is acceptable to
replace the combed ring ply yarn by a similar carded compact yarn.

CONCLUSION
1-The compact spinning enables the possibility of producing yarn count up to Ne 80/1
carded yarn from G.86, when the carding production speed reaches 100 m/min.
2-Comparison between different plied yarns :( carded compact, combed compact and
combed conventional yarn) indicated that carded ply yarn up to Ne 60/2 produced by
compact spinning gives a quality better or equal to that of conventional combed ring spun
yarn according to 5%Uster Statistics quality level.
3-It is recommended to use carded compact ply yarns up to count 60/2 instead of ply ring
spun yarns.

Ne 50/1

Ne 50/1

C.V m%

15.0%

Thin places/km

15.5%
2

R = 0.9383

14.5%
14.0%
13.5%
13.0%
40

6
5
4
3
2
1
0

R2 = 0.96

40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 1 Effect of card speed


on yarn evenness

Fig. 2 Effect of card speed


on thin places
Ne 50/1

250
R2 = 0.9201

150
100
50
40

Neps/km

Thick places/km

Ne 50/1
300
200

300
250
200
150
100
50
0

R2 = 0.9594

40

60
80
100
Carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 3 Effect of card speed on thick


places

60
80
100
Carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 4 Effect of card speed on


neps

Hairiness

R2 = 0.5

3.1

3.05
3
40

60
80
100
Carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 5 Effect of card speed on


hairiness

Ne 50/1

Tenacity (g/tex)

Ne 50/1
3.2
3.15

60
80
100
Carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

28
26

R2 = 0.9905

24
22
20
40

60

80

100

Carding m achine production


speed(m /m in)

Fig. 6 Effect of card speed on


tenacity

Ne 50/1
Elongation%

6
R2 = 0.8897

5
4
3
40

60
80
100
Carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 7 Effect of card speed on yarn elongation

Ne 60/1

16.5%
16.0%
15.5%
15.0%
14.5%
14.0%
13.5%

R2 = 0.9383

40

Thin places/km

C.V m%

Ne 60/1
30
20

R2 = 0.684

10
0
40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 9 Effect of card speed on yarn evenness

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig.8 Effect of card speed on thin


places
Ne 60/1

Ne 60/1
R2 = 0.8394

Neps/km

200
150
100
50
0
40

R2 = 0.684

40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig.10 Effect of card speed on thick


places

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 11 Effect of card speed


on neps
Ne 60/1

Hairiness

Ne 60/1
3.3
3.2
3.1
3
2.9
2.8
2.7

R2 = 0.9092

40
60
80
100
carding m achine production speed
(m /m in)

Tenacity g/tex

Thick places/km

250

250
240
230
220
210
200
190
180

30
25
20
15
10
5
0

R = 0.9706

40

60

80

100

carding m achine production


speed(m /m in)

Fig. 12 Effect of card speed on


hairiness

Fig. 13 Effect of card speed on


tenacity

Elongation%

Ne 60/1
6

R2 = 0.9142

4
2
0
40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Ne 80/1

Ne 80/1

18.5%

R2 = 0.9031

C.Vm%

18.0%
17.5%
17.0%
16.5%
16.0%
40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Thin places/km

150
R2 = 0.875

100

Fig.
50
14
Effect
0
of
card
speed
on
yarn elongation

Fig. 15 Effect of card speed


On yarn evenness

40

Fig. 16 Effect of card speed


on thin places
Ne 80/1
800

Neps/km

R2 = 0.7049

40

Fig. 17 Effect of card speed

R2 = 0.9231

600
400
200
0

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

40

Tenacity(g/tex)

Thick places/km

Ne 80/1
590
580
570
560
550
540
530
520

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

60
80
100
carding m achine production
Ne speed(m
80/1
/m in)

25
20

R2 = 0.9821

15
10
5
0
40

60
80
100
carding machine production
speed(m/min)

Fig. 18 Effect of card speed on neps


on thick places
Ne 80/1
3.25
R2 = 0.9846

Hairiness

3.2
3.15
3.1

3.05
3
60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 19 Effect of card speed


on hairiness

Fig. 20 Effect of card speed


on tenacity
Ne 80/1

Elongation%

40

4
R2 = 0.7448

3
2
1
0
40

60
80
100
carding m achine production
speed(m /m in)

Fig. 21 Effect of card speed on yarn elongation


C.V m%
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4

ELONGATION%

THICK PLACES/ KM

3
2
1
0

HAIRINESS

Ne 50/2

NEPS/ KM

combed
compact

combed
conventional

carded
compact
at 100m/min

Fig. 22 Comparison between properties of 50/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,
carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

C.V m%

16
14
12
10
8
6

ELONGATION%

THICK PLACES/ KM

4
2
0

HAIRINESS

Ne 60/2

NEPS/ KM

combed
compact

combed
conventional

carded
compact
at 100m/min

Fig. 23 Comparison between properties of 60/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,
C.Vand
m% combed conventional yarn)
carded compact yarn
38
33
28
23
18
13

ELONGATION%

THICK PLACES/ KM
8
3
-2

HAIRINESS

Ne 80/2

NEPS/ KM

combed
compact

combed
conventional

carded
compact
at 100m/min

Fig. 24 Comparison between properties of 80/2 plied yarns (combed compact yarn,
carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)

TENACITY(g/tex) Ne 50/2
30
27
24
21
18
15

TENACITY(g/tex)Ne 80/2

TENACITY(g/tex) Ne 60/2

combed
compact

combed
conventional

carded
compact
at 100m/min

Fig. 25 Comparison between tenacities of different plied yarns (combed compact


yarn, carded compact yarn and combed conventional yarn)
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