BASIS AND PRESUMPTIONS

This project is based on single shift basis and 300 working days in a year and time period for
achieving maximum capacity utilisation is considered from 3rd year from the date on which
production is started. The rental value for the proposed building of the project is taken as Rs. 20
per sq. mt. The costs of machinery and equipment/material indicated refer to a particular make
and approximate to those prevailing at the time of preparation of this project. The cost of
installation and electrification is taken @ 10% of cost of machinery and equipment.
Nonrefundable deposits, project report cost, trial production, security deposit with State
Electricity Board are taken under pre-operative expenses.
Depreciation has been considered at 10% on plant and machinery, 15% on office furniture.
Interest rate on capital loan has been considered as 14% per annum.
IMPLEMENTATION SCHEDULE
The implementation period for executing different types of work right from selection of
site/working shed and forming of company to selection of market channel and miscellaneous
work will take a total period of 5 months. However, on considering that some of the activities
may be overlapping, the actual project implementation may hardly take 3 months.
TECHNICAL ASPECTS
Process of Manufacture
The various steps involved in printing process are preparation of printing paste, printing of
fabric, fixation of dye stuff by curing/steaming, washing off, calendering, folding and packing.
Scoured and bleached cotton fabric as obtained from dealers is inspected to remove any
objectionable faults and stretched evenly on printing table. A screen containing the designs is
placed over the table and the dye paste is pressed over the screen by means of rubber squeezer.
The selection of dyes and gums depends on the construction of basic cloth to be printed and their
end use. After printing, the printed clothes are cured or steamed for the fixation of the colour.
Later, the printed material is thoroughly washed to remove loose dye stuffs. Then, it is
calendered, folded and packed for the delivery.
TYPES OF PRODUCTION SYSTEM

In the production system there are following types of production system can be used for the
conversion of raw material into the finished goods.
There is the different type of techniques used in the production process.

Project
Job shop
Batch production ( disconnected line)
Assembly line
Continuous flow
Cell manufacturing (group technology)

Our textile printing manufacturing unit is using the JOB-SHOP or BATCH PRODUCTION
technique for the production.
JOB-SHOP techniques:In the job shop, machinery used mostly general purpose to produce the goods. Highly skilled
labor is needed for this type of production system to handle and operate the machinery.
Production is characterized by processing of small batches of a large number of different
products most of which require a different set or sequence of processing steps.
In the job shop technique i.e., print shop
Textile production systems may be treated as a succession of local problems, one per each
production phase. The coherence of these local problems should be taken into account by
material requirements planning or just-in-time approaches.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
INTRODUCTION:Products are the goods and services produced and processes are the facilities, skills, and
technologies used to produce them. Production function or operation function is the primary
function of an industrial enterprise. It is also known as conversion process or transformation
process which transforms some of the inputs (raw material and components) into outputs which
are useful for the consumers.

INPUTS

CONVERSION
PROCESS

OUTPUTS

PRINTING:-

Colored

designs

on

cotton

cloth

is

similar

to

printing

on

paper.

Long runs of the same fabric design are produced on a roller print machine operating at speeds
between 50 to 100 yards a minute. As many as of 10 different colors can be printed in one
continuous operation.
A typical printing machine has a large padded drum or cylinder, which is surrounded by a series
of copper rollers, each with its own dye trough and doctor blade that scrapes away excess dye.
The number of rollers varies according to the fabric design, since each color in the design is
etched on a separate roller. As the cloth moves between the rotating drum and rollers under great
pressure, it picks up color from the engraved area of each roller in sequence. The printed cloth is
dried immediately and conveyed to an oven that sets the dye.
Automatic screen-printing is another principal method for imparting colored designs to cotton
fabrics. Although slower than roller printing, it has the advantage of producing much larger and
more intricate designs, elaborate shadings and various handcrafted effects.
FACILITY LOCATION
State of Jammu & Kashmir is famous for silk textile ,Carpet-Making and Woolen Textile but
these fields are facing some serious issues in its operation.

Silk Textile:
Silk textile is one of the most ancient industries of Jammu and Kashmir state. Kashmiri silkgoods are renowned the world over for their quality, colour and shades. There are historical
evidences which prove that silk fabrics were used to be exported to Persian, Greeks and Roman
empires. During the medieval period, the Mughals were the great lovers of silken clothes. They
patronized this industry in the Valley of Kashmir.
According to the data of 1995-96, silk industry and its allied activities provide employment to
about 2.50 lakh people and, contribute about Rs. six crores (60 million) to the income of the
Jammu and Kashmir state. It also provides raw material for shawl making, carpet, gabha, namda,
hosiery and embroidery making. Moreover, it helps in the utilization of culturable waste and less
productive tracts for the various activities of silk textile.
Agriculture in Jammu and Kashmir State, despite favourable geo-climatic conditions is not
developing at the desired level. Apart from the vagaries of weather, competition from artificial
silk is posing serious problems for silk industry as the synthetic fibre is cheaper to that of pure
silk fibre.
Other problems of the industry include, low productivity, and the inferior quality of cocoons.
High cost of production, absence of marketing agency and the fluctuating demand for silk are the
other serious problems of the industry.
Carpet-Making and Woolen Textile:
Carpet-making is one of the oldest industries in Kashmir. Kashmiri carpets are famous all over
the world for their excellent designs and natural patterns. Though carpets are made in almost all
the towns of the valley, their major factories are in and around the City of Srinagar.
In the manufacturing of Kashmiri carpets, the warp is drawn in cotton, while the leaves and
texture, leaving a fluppy pile is done by wool, silk and synthetic fibres. The number of knots per
sq cm/inch determines the quality and value of carpet, together with the quality of yarn, dye-stuff
and finish. Kashmiri qaleens (carpets) are manufactured by the government undertakings as well
as by the private manufacturers.
Some of the important carpets manufacturing centres in Srinagar are, the Cottage Industry
Exposition, C.A.E. Carpet Factory, the Kashmiri Carpet Factory, the East-India Carpet Factory,
the Oriental Carpet Factory and the John Carpet Factory.
In most of these factories, children and teenagers from the poor families are employed. These
workers get low wages. Having inadequate nourishment, they work under unhygienic conditions.
Consequently, their health, efficiency, literacy and education are adversely affected.

About 75 per cent of the total carpets production is exported to the countries of Middle East and
North-West Europe (U.K., France, Netherland, Germany, Denmark, Italy and Belgium). Carpet
export is one of the leading items of foreign exchange earners.
Carpets-making has many allied and ancillary crafts and cottage industries. Namda and Gohha
are the special types of woolen carpets, generally used by the Kashmiris to combat cold. Namda
is a type of felt made of raw wool and cotton mixed in different proportions according to their
grade and quality.
The average size of Namda is 1 m x 1.5 m. Srinagar City is the main centre of Namda
manufacturing. Gabba is relatively large in size, being about 1.75 m x 2.50 m in dimension.
Gabba is made of coarse wool in black, red, yellow and green colours combinations. The Gabba
of Islamabad (Anantnag) are famous all over the country and abroad.
Apart from carpet-making, there are two woolen textile factories, one each at Karan Nagar and
Bemina in the City of Srinagar. The wool textile factory of Naushahra (Srinagar) procures fine
quality of raffle, utilized mainly for shawl making. Woolen hosiery goods are produced in the
Jammu City. About 900 workers are engaged in the woolen textile industry in the state, fetching
about Rs. 3 crores (Rs. 30 million) annually.
In 1994-95 about 82 thousand people were employed in the carpet-making and about 10
thousand in Namda and Gabba making. Thus, carpet-making is an important employment
generating industry.
The industry is however, facing a number of problems as the developed countries (Canada,
U.S.A., Germany, France, U.K. etc.) have banned the import of Indian carpets produced by
children. Apparently, the objective seems to stop the exploitation of child labour. This policy of
the developed countries is however, coming in the way of growth and development of carpet
industry in the state of Jammu and Kashmir.
The need for the selection of the location may arise under any of the following conditions:1) When the business is newly started;
2) The existing business unit has outgrown its original facilities and expansion is not
possible;
3) A lease expire and the landlord does not renew the lease;
4) Other social or economic reasons; for example inadequate labour supply, shifting of
the market.
SELECTION OF LOCATION
In choosing a plant location, the entrepreneur would do well to proceed step by step, the step
being;

1) Within the country or outside;

2) Selection of the region: Availability of raw material
Nearness to the market
Availability of power
Transport facilities
Suitability of climate
Government policy
Competition between stat
3) Selection of the locality or community;
Availability of labour
Civic amenities for workers
Finance and research facility
Availability of water and fire-fighting facility
Local taxes and restrictions
Personal factors
4) Selection of the exact site.
Soil, size, and topography
Disposal of waste
FACILITY LAYOUT/PLANT LAYOUT
Plant layout is the physical arrangement of industrial facilities. It involves the allocation of space
& the arrangement of equipment in such a manner that overall operating costs are minimized.
There are three classic approaches to laying out the equipment and processing functions within a
manufacturing facility.
1) FIXED POSITION FACILITIES:- comes the closest to meeting our goal of moving
the product as little as possible as it undergoes production processing. In these facilities,
the product occupies a constant fixed position in the center of the manufacturing area.
Rather than physically moving the product through different processing points, the
workers and the equipment necessary for manufacturing steps are brought to the product.
A good example of a fixed position manufacturing layout is a shipyard, where the ship
under construction occupies a fixed position in the drydock. Certain aerospace industries
also operate with fixed position manufacturing arrangements.

2) PROCESS LAYOUTS :- are those in which equipment and workstations are arranged
according to the type of

process they perform. Saws would be one part of the

manufacturing area; drill presses would be in another; welding stations would be in a

third; and paint booths would be in a fourth area. Process layouts are used primarily in
job shops, where the facility produces a variety of 9 different products and each requires
a different series of processing steps to be performed in a different sequence.

Process layouts require the most movement of products from workstation to workstation
since the equipment is arranged without regard to the processing needs of any one
product. Job shops can attempt to reduce this unnecessary handling, however, by
assessing movement between various workstations for each product. They can then
determine the total number of product movements between workstations for all of their
products and arrange the different process areas to reduce the total number of product
movements. Process layouts do have the advantage, however, of maximizing the
efficiency of machinery usage. All products requiring drilling, for example, are moved to
the same drill press. Therefore, the total number of drill presses required is kept to a
minimum.
3) PRODUCT LAYOUTS :-Product layouts are geared to production line operations which
manufacture only one product or a limited series of products which undergo
approximately the same processing steps in approximately the same sequence. In these

cases, equipment and manual workstations are arranged to mirror the required flow of
these specified products through the steps in the manufacturing process. If the first
production process following reception of incoming raw materials is cutting boards into
door frame components, the first piece of equipment located adjacent to the receiving
dock will be a saw. If the next process step is to assemble these components into a door
frame, then adjacent to the first cutting station will be a frame assembly area. While
product layouts do require handling of products from step to step in the manufacturing
process, they minimize the unnecessary movement of products between related steps by
ensuring their close proximity.
Unlike process layouts, however, product layouts maximize the need for expenditures on
equipment. Studies have shown that savings in process efficiency far outweigh these
additional machine costs. If cutting stations are required at several steps along the
processing route, product layouts would require purchasing separate saws for each step to
allow the uninterrupted flow of work along the line.
IMPORTANCE OF THE LAYOUT: Economies in handling
Effective use of available area
Minimization of production delay
Improved quality control
Minimum equipment investment
Better production control
Better supervision
Improved utilization of labour
Improved employee morale
Avoidance of unnecessary and costly charges

INDUSTRIAL SAFETY MEASURES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

INTRODUCTION:There are numerous health and safety (h&s) issues associated with the textile industry. These
include: chemical exposure from the processing and dyeing of materials; exposure to cotton and
other organic dusts, which can affect the throat and lungs; musculoskeletal stresses; noise

exposure, which can lead to hearing loss; temperature and ventilation, which can lead to fatigue
and dehydration if temperatures are too high; and working hours and breaks, including access to
food, drinks and bathroom facilities.
Health and safety regulations have been in place in textile industries across Europe and the USA
since the 1970s. In England, the health and safety at work act was introduced in the early 1970s
and the health and safety executive (hse) was formed and given responsibility for providing the
framework for workplace h&s. Different countries have different standards on h&s practices and
this booklet takes some of the key elements of these that are applicable to promoting a safe
working environment in the textile industry in Bangladesh.
CHEMICAL SAFETY

Hazardous chemicals and their symbols

Material safety data sheet

Risk assessment of chemicals
Health effects of dyes and chemicals
Chemical storage and disposal of waste
First aid

LABORATORY SAFETY PROTOCOL

Laboratory Safety Protocol

Factory Floor Safety Protocol

RESPONSIBILITY

Role of The Management

Role of The Factory Staff

HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS AND THEIR SYMBOLS

Substances used directly in work activities (e.g. adhesives, solvents, cleaning agents);
Substances generated during work activities (e.g. fumes from soldering and welding);
Naturally occurring substances (e.g. dust); and Biological agents such as bacteria and
other micro-organisms.

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS

Material safety data sheets (msds) exist to provide workers with the proper procedures for
handling or working with particular substances and should therefore be supplied for each
individual substance. Msds includes information as physical data (melting point, boiling point
and flash point), toxicity, health effects, reactivity, required storage conditions, disposal methods,
protective equipments, first aid, and spill or leak procedures. When a substance is bought, the
manufacturer should provide the purchaser (the textile factory) with the msds for it. The msds
should be received by the factory the first time goods are delivered.
They should be available in the managers office, the storeroom or an appropriate place where
people can have easy access to them when needed. Staff members who regularly handle such
chemicals should be aware of the contents of the msds and should be provided with training to
advise them of the aspects that may impact on their health if chemicals are not handled correctly.
RISK ASSESSMENT OF CHEMICALS

An inventory and risk assessment of all chemicals and dyes that are present at the factory must
be undertaken by the management. The MSDS simplify this process by providing much of the
information required in this risk assessment. The risk assessment should consider how chemicals
are stored and handled. The information in the inventory and risk assessment must be made
available to all workers. The factory management team should remove unnecessary risks and
protect against those that remain. The steps involved in undertaking a risk assessment include:

Reference to the suppliers MSDS;

Observations at the factory (on the production floor, in the laboratory and in the

chemical store);
Consultation with employees and supervisors; and
Assessing feedback and results from monitoring of potential health risks.

ROLE OF THE MANAGEMENT

The management should regularly check and document the national laws and regulations
concerning workplace safety. The management should then develop a protocol through which to
implement these laws.
It may also be necessary to consider the requirements of certain buyers, who may have codes of
conduct, corporate social responsibility and environmental responsibility. The protocol provided
here should provide a good basis for this and if implemented correctly could improve the safety
of the working environment in most factories.
PROVIDE BASIC NEEDS
Employees should be given access to safe drinking water as well as a clean area for meals. Meals
should be taken in a separate area away from the factory production. The factory staff should
also have access to a sufficient number of toilets of adequate quality, this is a legal requirement
and contained in most codes of conduct provided by buyers.

There should also be signs saying no food and drink in areas such as the
laboratory, store room and factory floor, and any other areas where it is not safe
to consume food, for example because of the risk of contamination by chemicals.

Hazardous chemicals should be clearly marked in an appropriate language and

with clear symbols that people have been trained to recognise and understand.

Heavy objects should be marked as such to avoid musculoskeletal accidents.

Substances or items that present a fire hazard should be clearly labelled with the
universally recognized symbol.

Signs should be placed near inflammable substances stating that it is not

permitted to smoke or have open fires.

Showers and eye washes should be made available and clearly marked.

ROLE OF THE FACTORY STAFF

Each employee should have sufficient appropriate training and experience so that they can
perform all their required job activities. Wherever relevant each employee should:

Be aware of the contents of materials used and of potential hazards.

Follow all protocol in the safe handling and disposal of dyes and chemicals.
Be aware of the fire protocol, where fire extinguishers are and where the nearest exit

is and where assembly points are.

Be aware of where the first aid kit is.
Wash hands before meals, when leaving the work area and at the end of the shift. This

will prevent accidental ingestion of chemicals or contact with eyes.

Maintain correct posture when lifting or carrying heavy objects.
Report all accidents and sicknesses to the manager as soon as they occur.
Report any defects or problems with the machinery that might lead to potential
accidents.

QUALITY CONTROL
New employees
To maintain consistent quality throughout the production process all staff must have relevant
education suitable for their task.
H&M recommends new employees to be given an eyesight test, to establish their need of glasses.
New experienced employees should be instructed regarding suppliers and customers quality
standards. Their skill should be tested before they are placed in production line.
New inexperienced employees should be given a training program that includes:
Basic training; exercises in machine control, eyes-hand-feet coordination, fabric
alignment, chain printing practice etc.
Job related training; detail printing techniques etc.
Production training; speed training, fault analysis etc.

Pre production
Before production can start, the suppliers must conduct pre production meetings, style by style,
and discuss how to produce the goods with a consistent quality. This will help to identify the
number and type of controls and tests that are going to be required. All persons involved before
and during the production must attend this meeting. Keep a record from the meeting.
When the production unit is located far away, it is important to send written detailed information
from the pre production meeting to the production unit.
Process control
Process control will identify the source of eventual weak points in the production line. This
knowledge must be used to inform and educate the personnel.
A process controller:
Is responsible for approx. 30-35 machines/operators/workers.
Evaluates the work of each operator/worker minimum 2 times a day.
Inspects difficult processes more often according to Sample responsibles advice or from a Pre
production decision.
Audits 7 pieces picked at random from the operator/worker.
Returns them to the operator/worker if no defects are found.
Keeps a record.

Process control system:

1. If one or more defects are found, the defective pieces are handed over to the supervisor.
2. With clear explanation on how to avoid the defect, the supervisor returns the defective pieces
to the operator/worker for repair.
3. The operator/worker returns the same pieces after repair to the supervisor.
4. The supervisor returns repaired pieces to the process controller, who checks that defects have
been repaired.

5. After a rejection, repeat from points 1-4 every hour until 3 consecutive controls of 7 pieces are
without defects before going back to original inspecting schedule.
When same item is produced in other production lines/units, check if the same problem has
occurred, if so, solve it immediately.
Packing
It is the suppliers responsibility to make sure the product is finish level is maintained during
transport. The goods should be delivered ready for display.
Inspections
H&M recommends the suppliers to have an Independent QC or an Independent Quality
Assurance team responsible for quality control (internal audits). The team should be separated
from the production team and under the direction of ownership, or fully independent.
The Independent QC must perform internal quality controls continuously during the whole
production process.
Audit stations, Inspection area and Inspection room should have:
Day light D65 with minimum 1000 Lux over the inspection area.
Table should be in suitable size to garment.
Area must be arranged so no confusion will arise on what is rejected or approved.
Tools for checking; duplicate C/S, calibrated measurement tape, measurement list, inspection or
process control report.

The goods must be inspected, tested and records must be kept after each major stage of
production e.g.
Fabric/Yarn inspection: Shade deviation, colour against standard, fabric defects, shrinkage.
Cutting/knitting: Parts and panels size conformance, fabric or knit defects.
Pre-assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking,
collars, sleeves, position of pockets, prints and embroideries.
Assembly: General workmanship, appearance and measurements e.g. stitching, linking,
pockets, zippers, position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes.

 Finishing/pressing: Position and fastening of buttons and rivets, buttonholes, overall

workmanship, pressing appearance and measurements.
Pull force test of buttons and accessories: Babies and childrens garments must be tested on
a SafQ button and accessory testing machine every 4th hour during production.

Inspection records must be kept for minimum 6 months

Defects should be marked with e.g. arrow stickers. All problems identified during internal
inspections or during inspections by H&M QC staff, must be corrected immediately by supplier.
Supplier must have a follow up procedure to ensure the problems are permanently solved.
Problems must not be present at next internal inspection, or during next H&M QC inspection.
Inspection forms used must show same information as the H&M inspection reports. The reports
must be kept for review by visiting H&M QC staff, or sent to H&M on request.
Suppliers who use subcontractors for production must have their own QCs working at the
subcontractors. It is the suppliers responsibility to make sure that the subcontractor follows all
H&Ms Official documents found at H&M Supplier website: http://www.hm.com/supplier
10.1 Initial inspection
This inspection is very important in order to get a smooth running production. At this stage it is
still possible to find and solve problems without causing any major disturbance in the
production.
The suppliers Independent QC must carry out the initial inspection on the first finished goods
from trial production. H&M recommends the suppliers production team and sample responsible
to take part in this inspection.
To ensure conformance to requirements this inspection must include controls and tests on textiles
produced in production line.
Eventual adjustments must be made before bulk production starts. Records must be kept.
Inline inspection
The purpose of this inspection is to confirm that during the early stages of production, the agreed
manufacturing specifications are being followed. Problems found must be solved immediately.
Final inspection

Pick by random samples of finished goods from the finishing section in all sizes and colours
from all countries. The inspection will show whether the entire lot is acceptable or not depending
on the quality of the samples inspected.
For judging defects: It is the sole responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all goods are
consistent with:
Approved Counter Sample
Order contract
Graded measurement list
Colours must be evaluated according to Counter Sample
Pay special attention to the following:
Correct information on price tags
Correct assortment in poly bags
Correct colour and quantity in cartons
Correct filling level
Correct marked cartons
Correct swing tickets on hanging goods
No unnecessary master poly bags
Final inspection records are to be kept for 18 months.
Use the record for comparison with previous inspection results and for analysis to help identify
areas that need improvement. It might be required to send copies of the final inspection report to
the office for review.
In those cases when H&M perform Final Inspection, easy access should be provided to all goods,
allowing random samples to be taken for inspections.