QAM- 2012 version February

Quality
Assurance
Manual

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2012 version February

QAM- 2012 version February

1. GENERAL.

2. MINIMUM PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS.

2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5

5
6
6
6
6

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS WOVEN.

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS KNITS.
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS SWIMWEAR.
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS WATER REPELLENT PRODUCTS.
PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS WATER RESISTANT PRODUCTS.

3. MINIMUM CHEMICAL REQUIREMENTS.

3.1
3.2
3.4
3.5

7
7
8
9

INTRO.
RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (RSL).
THIRD PARTY TESTING.
OEKO-TEX.

4. FITTING & SIZES.

10

4.1 HOW TO MEASURE.

4.2 TOLERANCES.
4.3 NECK STRETCH.

10
10
10

5. LABELLING.

10

5.1 COMPOSITION LABELLING.

5.2 CARE LABELLING.

10
10

6. MANUFACTURING INSTRUCTIONS.

11

6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
6.6
6.7
6.8
6.9
6.10
6.11
6.12
6.13
6.14
6.15
6.16
6.17
6.18
6.19

11
11
11
11
11
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
12
13
13
13
13
13
13

FABRIC/ LINING.
INTERLINING / PADDING / DOWN.
SEWING THREAD.
BAR-TACKING.
SEAMS.
MINIMUM NECK OPENING.
MINIMUM OPENING OF LEGS / SLEEVES / CUFFS.
ELASTICITY OF WAISTBANDS, CUFFS, NECK OPENINGS.
BELT LOOPS.
POCKETS.
DARTS.
VENTS/ SLITS.
HEMS.
SHOULDER PADS.
HANGER LOOPS.
FASTENERS / ACCESSORIES.
ZIPS.
SNAP FASTENERS / BUTTONS / EYELETS / RIVETS.
BEADS.

QAM- 2012 version February

6.20
6.21
6.22
6.23
6.24

SEQUINS.
RHINESTONES / SWAROVSKI STONES.
EMBROIDERY/ APPLICATION/ PRINT.
NEEDLES AND OTHER SHARP METAL OBJECTS.
ATTACHMENT OF ALL SMALL PARTS.

14
14
14
14
14

7. PRODUCT SAFETY.

15

7.1 INTRO.
7.2 MINIMUM PRODUCT SAFETY REQUIREMENTS.

15
15

8. INSPECTION.

17

8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
8.5
8.6
8.7
8.8
8.9
8.10
8.11
8.12
8.13

17
17
17
17
18
18
18
18
19
19
20
20
21

INTRO.
FINAL RANDOM INSPECTION.
DEFINITION OF ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL).
DEFINITION OF DEFECTS.
INSPECTION LEVELS.
SAMPLE PLANS.
INSPECTION SEVERITIES.
DRAWING SAMPLES.
TEIDEMS AQL LEVELS.
AQL INSPECTION PROCEDURE.
EXAMPLE OF SAMPLE LOT CALCULATION.
TEIDEMS QUALIFICATION OF DEFECTS.
LESSONS LEARNED FROM THE PAST.

9. PACKAGING.

22

9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4

22
23
24
25

CARTON SPECIFICATIONS.
CARTON PACKAGING AND MARKING.
STACKING, LOADING & STUFFING.
PACKING OF GARMENTS WITH COATED FABRICS OR PLASTISOL PRINTS.

QAM- 2012 version February

1. General.
Who is?
Teidem is an importer of ready-made fashion garments focused on outer-, underwear and hosiery.
We are active in over 40 countries. Our customers are medium-sized and large retail organizations varying from
department- and chain stores to wholesalers and importers.
The unique selling points of Teidem are; wide ranged collections; competitive pricing and reliability that comes with
more than 60 years of experience. Collections are trend following!
Purchasing.
As an importer Teidem works with local agents, buying houses or directly with factories throughout Asia and in
Europe. In this respect we rely on our suppliers to be our eyes and ears in the markets where we operate. The goal
is to build long lasting relationship based on partnership.
Code of conduct.
Teidem has defined its responsibilities towards its stakeholders and the environment in a Code of Conduct (See
Appendix 2). Teidem asks its suppliers to adopt the basic requirements stated in the Code of Conduct in their own
supply chain. Reasonable efforts of all parties must be done to review and monitor the compliance with this Code.
Minimum Quality.
The quality of garments is an important reason for buying customers to maintain a good relationship with Teidem. In
order to assure this relationship minimum quality requirements are described in this manual. This minimum is
divided in mechanical- and chemical standards for knit & woven. These standards are based on European and
governmental legislation/regulations and the latest requirements of Teidems buying customers.
How to use?
Together with the General Purchase Terms & Conditions (GPTC), the H2Work with Teidem manual and a
Purchase Order (PO), this manual is part of a framework of collaboration framework (see Fig.1.1). The minimum
quality is set in the QAM, but amendments can be done in a specific Purchase Order.
We have tried to keep the topics in this manual straight forward, so the instruction will be easily executed exactly in
the way as described in this version.
In order to serve you better, Teidem has made a chemical test program that is synchronised with Teidems QAM.
The pricing advantages of this contract will be passed to our suppliers.
Teidem is sure that this QAM will improve the cooperation with its suppliers and customers.
Fig. 1.1: Collaboration framework.

For any question related to this Quality Assurance Manual, please contact: qa@teidem.com.

Teidem B.V.

QAM- 2012 version February

2. Minimum product requirements.

2.1

Physical requirements woven.

Woven
Jackets
Coats
Anoraks
Basic properties
Maximum fibre content deviation of blends.
Maximum weight deviation (mass/m2).
Yarns count & weave density.

Colour fastness (EN/ISO 105A01-A03) to:

Standards
ISO 1833-2
EN 12127
Light: EN/ISO 105/B02 (scale 1-8).
Washing: EN/ISO105/C06.
Water: EN/ISO 105/E01.
Perspiration: EN/ISO105/E04.
Dry cleaning: EN/ISO105/D01
Ironing: EN/ISO 105/X11

Breaking strength.
Seam strength.
Seam slippage.
Tear strength.
Abrasion resistance**.

Washing: EN/ISO 6330 / 5077 / 3759

Dry cleaning: EN/ISO 3175-1
EN/ISO 13934-2 (Grab)
EN/ISO 13935-2
EN/ISO 13935-1 / SO = 4mm.
EN/ISO 13935-1
ISO 12947-2 (Martinndale).

18 daN
14 daN
14 daN
1.2 daN
16000
revs/9 kPa

ISO 12947-4
EN/ISO 12945-1 (pilling box) ***

11000 revs

Pilling resistance.
EN/ISO 12945-2 (Martinndale)***
Snagging (filaments).

ASTM D3939

Appearance.

After 5 cleaning/drying/Ironing cycles

according care label.

Scarves

Change & Staining: 4

Rubbing*: EN/ISO 105/X12

Dimensional stability as in care label.

Requirements
Shirts
Lining
Trousers
Blouses
Nightwear
Shorts
Tunics
Lingerie
Skirts
Dresses
Underwear
Beachshorts
Bathrobe
3%
5%
Exactly as ordered
4-5 / Ski- & Swimwear: 5

Change: 4
Change & Staining: 4
Dry: Staining: 4
Wet: Staining: 3
+/- 2%
+/- 2%
16 daN
15 daN
20 daN
12 daN
12 daN
16 daN
12 daN
14 daN
16 daN
1.0 daN
1.0 daN
1.6 daN
10000
12000
20000
revs/9 kPa
revs/9 kPa
revs/9 kPa
Change: 4
4 at:
11000 revs
11000 revs
18000 revs

15 daN
12 daN
12 daN
1.0 daN
10000
revs/9 kPa

11000 revs

125 revs: 3-4

500 revs: 3-4
1000 revs: 3-4
2000 revs: 3-4
3
No major visible changes.
Smoothness of seams and fabric: 3-4
Prints, Embroideries, embellishment intact.
Maximum 3% & sleeves maximum 8mm.

Spirality / skew
ISO 16322-3 (procedure B)
Maximum E 1.2 / within the article maximum E 0.5
Colour shading
DIN 147 (CIE Lab)
Exceptions:
* Colour fastness to rubbing:
1. For heavy shades that can not comply with above standard, you need to contact a buyer.
2. For Denim, Pile fabrics (Velvet, Cord, Chenille, Terry) the following is applicable: Dry: 3 and Wet: 2-3.
** Abrasion resistance EN-ISO 12945-2 Martindale corduroy, velvet at backside only: 9 kPa, 5000 revs.
*** For water repellent / water proof products / swimwear: extra requirements apply, see standard 03.130.
For all products/materials also requirements of the Teidem BV Product Safety rules apply.
Requirements for specific Teidem BV purchase orders may deviate and are leading.

QAM- 2012 version February

2.2

Physical requirements knits.

Requirements

Knits
Basic properties
Maximum fibre content deviation of blends.
Maximum weight deviation (mass / m2).
Yarn count & gauge.

Colour fastness (EN/ISO 105A01-A03) to:

Standards
ISO 1833-2
EN 12127

All knitwear, including:

T-shirts, sweaters, pullovers, cardigans, lingerie, swimwear,
underwear, nightwear, socks, tights, leggings, ballerina
slippers, accessories

Light: EN/ISO 105/B02 (scale 1-8)

Washing: EN/ISO105/C06.
Water: EN/ISO 105/E01.
Perspiration: EN/ISO105/E04.
Dry cleaning: EN/ISO105/D01
Ironing: EN/ISO 105/X11
Rubbing*: EN/ISO 105/X12

Dimensional stability as in care label.

Bursting strength.
Abrasion resistance*.

Pilling resistance.

Washing: EN/ISO 6330 / 5077 / 3759

Dry cleaning: EN/ISO 3175-1
EN-ISO 13938-2
ISO 12947-2 (Martindale).
ISO 12947-4
EN/ISO 12945-1 (pilling box) **
EN/ISO 12945-2 (Martindale)***

Snagging (filaments).

ASTM D3939

Appearance.

After 5 cleaning/drying/Ironing cycles

according care label.

3%
5%
Exactly as ordered
4-5 / Ski- & Swimwear: 5
Change & Staining: 4
Change: 4
Change & Staining: 4
Dry: Staining: 4
Wet: Staining: 3
-5% / +3%
200 kPa
8000 revs / 9 kPa
Change: 4
11000 revs: 3-4
125 revs: 3-4
500 revs: 3
1000 revs: 2-3
3
No major visible changes.
Smoothness of seams and fabric: 3-4
Prints, Embroideries, embellishment intact.

Spirality / skew (fabric twisting after

ISO 16322-3 (procedure B)
Maximum 5% & sleeves maximum 8mm.
washing).
Maximum E 1.2 / within the article maximum E 0.5
Colour shading.
DIN 147 (CIE Lab)
Exceptions:
* Colour fastness to rubbing:
1. For heavy shades that cannot comply with above standard, you need to contact a buyer.
2. For Denim, Pile fabrics (Velvet, Cord, Chenille, Terry) the following is applicable: Dry: 3 and Wet: 2-3.
** Abrasion resistance EN-ISO 12945-2 Martindale corduroy, velvetat backside only: 9 kPa, 5000 revs.
*** For water repellent / water proof products / swimwear: extra requirements apply, see standard 03.130.
For all products/materials also requirements of the Teidem BV Product Safety rules apply.
Requirements for specific Teidem BV purchase orders may deviate and are leading.

2.3

Physical requirements swimwear.

Requirements

Asorti

Swimwear / Beach shorts

Special properties
Colour fastness to:

2.4

Standards
Sea water: EN-ISO 105/E02
Chlorinated water: EN-ISO 105/E03

Change & Staining: 4

Change: 4

Physical requirements water repellent products.

Requirements

Asorti

Water repellent products

Special properties
Water repellency.

2.5

Standards
ISO 4920 Original
After 3 washing-drying cycles according carelabel.

4
3

Physical requirements water resistant products.

Requirements

Asorti

Water resistant products

Special properties
Water repellency.

Standards
ISO 811

130 cmH2O (=mbar)

QAM- 2012 version February

3. Minimum chemical requirements.

3.1

Intro.

Teidem B.V wants to protect the health and well being of its stakeholders and their environment. Teidem expects
from its suppliers that the same policy on these matters is adopted.
The production of apparel from raw materials to finished products is a complex mechanical process and considered
as chemical intensive.
The minimum chemical requirements described in this manual are applicable to the final product Teidem has to
deliver to its buying customer. This is:
1. All materials involved the ordered garment: fabric, sewing thread, trims (buttons; zippers etc.), applications
(prints and embroideries) etc.
2. All labels: sew in and hangtags.
3. Total packing: shipping carton, polybags, hangers, stickers/ink used etc.
Teidem strongly advises all their suppliers to cooperate closely with test institutes like SGS to control risks. Please
be informed that Teidem keeps suppliers responsible for all consequences, if deliveries not meet standards as
described in their manuals; appendices or forwarded information available on/or links to websites.

3.2

Restricted Substances List (RSL).

The mentioned restrictions in the RSL are European legal standards. No exceptions are allowed. The RSL is related
to the final product only and not to the process. The RSL of Teidem is established in close consultation of the Modint
(Branch Organisation Fashion & Textile) and the GermanFashion (Modeverband Deutschland e.V.).
Most of these Regulations are valid for the whole European Economic Area (European Union countries plus Iceland,
Liechtenstein and Norway). In addition to EU legal standards, more strict national Laws of individual EU countries
may be applicable.
From a global perspective, Teidem may recommend best practises in regulations from countries outside the EU.
The RSL is divided in four categories:
1.

Legally Restricted Substances marked RED.

Starting point European Union Regulations, European Union Directives and European Union Decisions.
The strictest legal requirements in this RSL.
In case National Laws and EU Rules are similar in their meaning, only the EU Rules are presented.

2.

Legally Restricted Substances in legal ratification process are marked ORANGE.

Substances that will be legally restricted on short tem base.

3.

Supplementary Restricted Substances marked YELLOW.

They appear on the list based on voluntary restriction by some international retail companies.

4.

Other Attention Points marked GREEN.

They may appear on Restricted Substances Lists of some international retail companies or are recommended /
mentioned by NGOs.

For detailled RSL restrictions: see enclosed appendix.

QAM- 2012 version February

3.3

REACH. (Registration Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals).

The aim of REACH is to improve the protection of human health and the environment. All imported chemicals, substances and articles will be assessed on their risks for health and environmental aspects within the framework of
the European Union REACH Regulation.
Any chemical used during production of Garments ordered by Teidem, must be checked according the RSL. In case
of doubt about the intrinsic content of the chemicals used, the supplier shall inform Teidem (qa@teidem.com)
immediately about this. The garment shall be tested by SGS on the presence of RSL chemicals in the final garment.
The REACH process is managed by ECHA, the European Chemical Agency located in Helsinki, Finland. The reach
regulation is a dynamic process, for that reason please check the latest requirements on: http://echa.europa.eu/.

3.4 Third party testing.

Together with SGS International, Teidem has developed a chemical test program. The test program is based on the
RSL. Below table is a test program Teidem may require from its suppliers. A required test program is always
mentioned in the Purchase Order or applies instantly upon serious suspicion from Teidem that the ordered products
do not meet the RSL standard.

Test item

Natural

Azo Dyes (3)

Disperse Dyes (3)

Formaldehyde (3)

Only for
main
fabrics

Phenols
(PCP/TeCP) (3)

Only for
main
fabrics

Synthetic /
Blends with
synthetic (incl
synthetic
leather)

Natural
leather /
coated
(natural
leather)

Plastisol
prints /
polymeric
coating

Only for main

fabrics

Only for
main fabrics

Only for main

fabrics

Only for
main fabrics

Plastic
(polymeric
materials)

Cadmium (3)

Phthalates (3)

Only for
PVC

Only for
PVC

PVC (flame test)*

Metal

Nickel Rubbing*
* Individual test only.

Pigment
coating /
ink printing

(3) = 3-in-1 composite test

Main fabric = Shell fabric, Lining, Pocket lining and Sleeves only.

Some remarks applicable to this program:

1. White- and off-white fabrics do not need to be tested for Azo.
2. Care label, Brand label, Size label, Flag label do not need to be tested for any test parameter.
3. Components smaller dan 0,3gram are not to be tested.
4. Sewing threat is tested together with main fabric. No other material may be mixed. Azo positive result
between limit and 30mg/kg inconclusive.
5. Embroidery 0,3<1gram will be tested as 1 component (no separate colour testing). Azo positive result
between limit and 30mg/kg inconclusive.
6. Embroidery >1gram must be separately tested per colour AND tested in composite (3-in1). If separate colour
testing is not possible, the inseparate parts must be tested as 1 component (no further mixing). Azo positive
result between limit and 30mg/kg inconclusive.
Teidem appreciates suppliers that de-risk their supply to Teidem by pro actively test the product in an early stage.
This behaviour will be positively evaluated in the cooperation between Teidem and supplier. Teidem and SGS have
made a package deal with competitive prices for testing. Below table are applicable for HY2012.

QAM- 2012 version February

Product

Package price (U$D)

Simple
T-shirts, Sweater,
Pullover, Shirt, Blouse,
Underwear, Leggings,
Pyama set, Swimwear
set
$

Garments
Medium
Pants, Jeans,
Overall, Skirt,
Dresses,
Trousers, Bra,
Lingerie set
$

Complicated

Simple

Winter jackets,
Coats

Scarf,
Socks,
necktie

Accessories
Medium
Complicated
Hat, Cap,
Umbrella
$

Handbag,
Backpack,
Wallet
$

Home textile

Beddings,
Rugs
$

Some remarks applicable to this package deal:

1. Cost for testing is always for account of the supplier.
2. Prices in U$D valid for HK, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Taiwan, India (Chennai), and Bangladesh (Dhaka).
Exchange rate: 1 USD = 7,75 HKD / 6,44 RMB.
3. All prices apply to 1 finished article only.
4. Maximum 3 colours of homogenous materials per article are applied in this mixed test service package.
5. Composite tests for Nickel rubbing and PVC screening are not allowed.
6. In case of a positive/fail result of the initial test(s), retest is possible upon request. Teidems discount is only
applicable for the individual failed tested article(s).
Prices above are net prices and free of any local tax. Supplier will settle SGS Ltd the net amount invoiced or agrees
to pay and compensate SGS ltd in full for the same amount of tax or levy being held up.

3.5

OEKO-TEX.
A valid Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Certificate issued by the Oeko-Tex Organisation covers most of
requirements of this RSL.
Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 has a wider scope: it covers also environmental aspects.
Certification according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100 or Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 can be more cost effective
than single tests.

QAM- 2012 version February

10

4. Fitting & sizes.

4.1

How to measure.

How to Measure instructions are always mentioned in the style sheets of a specific Purchase Order (P.O.).
Teidem is working on one H2Measure program for whole Teidem. The expected implementation is planned for SS
2013.
The most important effort a supplier must make is making clear instructions to its QCs regarding control of sizes &
fit during inline inspections.

4.2

Tolerances.

The defined tolerance allows a maximum variation in cm or mm in the specified Size Specifications of a garment.
Tolerance: grading step with a maximum of 1 cm.

4.3

Neck stretch.

For minimum neck opening see purchase order Teidem B.V.

Minimum stretched neck opening BABIES.
Size
Stretched width in cm at opening load of 12 N.

50
52

56
52

62
52

68
52

74
52

80
52

86
52

Minimum stretched neck opening - CHILDREN AND ADULTS.

Size
Stretched width in cm at opening load of 12 N.

92 -122
54

128 - 152
56

158 188
60

Ladies
60

5. Labelling.
5.1 Composition labelling.
1. The composition labels in a garment must comply with EU directive 2008/121/EC.
2. Instructions and amendments for labelling are stated in the specific Purchase Order of Teidem.

5.2 Care labelling.

1. The care labels in a garment must comply with ISO 3758.
2. Instructions and amendments for labelling are stated in the specific Purchase Order of Teidem.
For more information see: http://www.ginetex.net/labelling/

Men
62

QAM- 2012 version February

11

6. Manufacturing instructions.
6.1

6.2

6.3

6.4

6.5

Fabric/ lining.
All parts of one garment must be cut and sewn from the same fabric layer.
Fabric grain of the whole garment in one direction, unless agreed otherwise. Take special care of fabrics with a
pile/nap. Make sure the pile/nap direction is according our specification.
Imitation fur may not shed.
Lining must be compatible with the shell fabric regarding size, elasticity and shrinkage.
Consult Teidem B.V. buyer if necessary.

Interlining / padding / down.

Interlining must be permanently attached, only by fusing machine (not by iron) and with the correct settings
(pressure, temperature, time and cool down).
Adhesive of the interlining must not be visible on the surface of the material, no strike through allowed.
Padding fibres/downs must not come through the surface of the lining, shell material or appear through the
seams.
Padding/down must not sag.

Sewing thread.
Only polyester staple yarn is allowed, unless agreed otherwise.
Threads must be compatible with the shell material and lining regarding:
a. Breaking strength.
b. Elasticity.
c. Heat resistance.
d. Dimensional stability (shrinkage resistance).
e. Colour fastness.

Bar-tacking.
Bar-tacks must not cause tearing of the fabric (fabric perforation or wrong placement).

Seams.
The top stitching must be continuously sewn, and the stitch density and appearance must be consistent.
The stitch density of all seams must be compatible with the specific materials and the expected stress to the
seams.
Stitching twice must reinforce the crotch seams.
Outer seams outer fabric of waterproof styles must be sealed.
If any thing unclear, consult Teidem B.V. buyer.

QAM- 2012 version February

6.6

6.7

6.8

6.9

6.10

6.11

6.12

6.13

12

Minimum neck opening.

Neck opening must have sufficient width and elasticity for an easy passing through of the head (body
measurements matching with garment size, see Teidem B.V. purchase order).
The neck opening of each size must be checked during product development and production.

Minimum opening of legs / sleeves / cuffs.

Leg/sleeve openings must have sufficient width and elasticity for an easy passing through of the foot/hand
(body measurements matching with garment size).
The opening of each size must be checked during product development and production.

Elasticity of waistbands, cuffs, neck openings.

Stretch and recovery must retain after normal use and care treatment.

Belt loops.
Belt loops must comply with EN 14862, see section Product Safety of this manual.
The turn back (inside) of the belt loop must be cut back to maximum 0.5 cm and not fray.

Pockets.
Pocket bags must be sewn with a safety stitch.

Darts.
Darts must be stitched hollow shaped, into a sharp point and the ends must be firmly secured without fabric
distortion at the end.
Make sure the folding direction the seam allowance is symmetrical and as agreed.

Vents/ slits.
Edges of vents/slits must be reinforced at the corners, unless agreed otherwise.

Hems.
Glued hems are not allowed.

QAM- 2012 version February

6.14

6.15

6.16

6.17

6.18

6.19

13

Shoulder pads.
Shoulder pads in garments without lining must be attached in a way that they can be removed without
damaging the garment.

Hanger loops.
Hanger loops may not exceed 14 cm in circumference, measuring the part, which can protrude outside the
garment. Some clients allow a maximum length of 7 cm in circumference, see order sheet.
All hanger loops must be equal in length and at the same distance from the waistband / shoulder edge.

Fasteners / accessories.
All fasteners and accessories must be colour fast, rust proof, nickel free and without sharp edges. They must
be compatible with the material, be durably attached and must not damage or distort the fabric.
Lacquered or enamel finishing must be according to EN 71-3.

Zips.
Zips must comply with BS 3084.
Coil-zips may NOT be cut. All zips must have permanent plastic stops that are free from sharp edges or
protrusions and must be made out of one solid piece.
Zips must have a good quality bottom stop and top stop.
Zips must have an auto locking mechanism. Pin lock is not allowed.
The zip insertion must be done in such a way that the slider does not damage the fabric or lining.
For concealed zips the zip-tape must extend 2 cm beyond the opening.

Snap fasteners / buttons / eyelets / rivets.

Must be attached through at least two layers of material. Button holes too.
The parts must firmly clamp the fabric, making it impossible to place a fingernail between the fabric and the
fastener. It should be impossible to rotate these parts.
Should be ordered at a well-established supplier. We recommend YKK, YCC, Stocko and Prym. The supplier
of the fastener must give a complete data-sheet of the proposed fastener and applicable machine settings.
Also satisfying test results of an accredited test lab should be available.
Eyelets must have a backing ring/ washer.
During production always check buttonhole size. It should match the button size and the button should go
though smoothly.

Beads.
Do NOT use any beads on baby garments up to and including size 98.
From 104 beads may be used, except if it is against clients regulations.
Make sure that the yarns are durable, strong and suitable for attaching beads. See Product safety.

QAM- 2012 version February

6.20

Sequins.
Only use sequins, which are attached with at least 4 stitches if the diameter of the sequins is less than 6 mm.

Fig.5.1: Sequin < 6 mm.

6.21

6.22

6.23

6.24

14

Fig.5.2: Sequin > 6 mm.

For sequins with a diameter of 6 mm and more, sequins must be attached with at least 5 stitches.
Make sure that the yarns are durable, strong and suitable for attaching sequins.

Rhinestones / Swarovski stones.

Do NOT use any rhinestones on baby garments up to and including size 98.
From size 104 rhinestones may be used, except if it is against clients regulations.

Embroidery/ application/ print.

Must be compatible with the fabric and securely attached.
Marks of clamping rings may not be visible on finished garments.
The backing (backside reinforcement) of embroideries must be removed carefully without damaging or distorting
the embroidery. We advise to use Freudenberg Vilene embroidery backing (www.vilene.com).
Prints must not be sticky or crack. Do not pack prints before they are completely dry.
Attachments by ironing or hot pressing must be fixed according to the suppliers specifications (time, pressure,
temperature, cool down) and must be done on prescribed machinery. Make sure not to leave adhesive marks
on the surface of the fabric.

Needles and other sharp metal objects.

Unwanted metal objects can cause life-threatening situations for babies.
A strict procedure is required during production and packaging to prevent goods being delivered with unwanted
metal objects such as broken needles, pins, cramps or parts of scissors.
A strict needle policy necessary for needle changing and the use of needle detector is mandatory if any risk of
enclosed needle (parts).
Do not use metal objects, such as pins and cramps, for preparation and finishing.

Attachment of all small parts.

Fasteners and accessories (such as buttons, zip-pullers, rivets, beads, studs and sequins) should be attached
well secured.
This is standard for all Teidem BV garments, but especially for childrens clothing up to and including size
104.

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15

7. Product safety.
7.1

Intro.

Product safety has a high priority in Teidems policy. Compliance with applicable EU and additional local legislation
is applicable for all Teidem B.V. products. This concerns the General Product Safety Directive and specific
regulation for Child safety, Burning behaviour, Hazardous substances (RSL) and labelling (see labelling section of
this manual).
Extra requirements may apply for particular Purchase Orders, depending on the product and specific requirements
of a particular customer.

7.2

Minimum product safety requirements.

The following Legal and additional requirements for product safety are applicable to all product of Teidem B.V.:

7.2.A

Hazardous substances.

Subject to:
Final product with packaging.

Standard:
Information:
The following parts in Teidems RLS:
RSL recommended by Modint &
Red - Orange Yellow.
German Fashion.
The Green parts are optional.
Note: Complying with Teidem RSL = compliance with REACH for all Teidems products.

7.2.B

Burning behaviour.

Subject to:
All fabrics / General garment.

Nightwear for babies / children.

(Including nightdresses, nightshirts,
pyjamas, dressing gowns, and bath
robes).
Nightwear for adults.
(Including nightdresses, nightshirts,
pyjamas, dressing gowns, and bath
robes).

7.2.C

Standard:
One second flame contact 4me;
4me for flame spread of 127 mm
must be no shorter than 4 seconds +
no surface flash (EN 1103).
EN 14878 (Burning behaviour of
Childrens nightwear).

Information:
ASTM D 1230 - Dutch statute
book, 8 Feb 2008.

Dutch Covenant Nightwear EN 1103.

Appendix:
Decision scheme Dutch
flammability requirements for
clothing.

Appendix:
Decision scheme Dutch
flammability requirements for
clothing.

Cords & Drawstrings.

Subject to:
Standard:
Information:
Cords & drawstrings.
EN 14682 (Safety of Children's
Appendix:
Inclusive ribbons, sashes, tied belts,
clothing - cords and drawstrings on
Schedule cords in children's
tabs, zip pullers and tapes of any
children's clothing - specifications.
clothing.
material.
Note: Garment manufacturers and suppliers are obliged to ensure their products comply with the BS EN 14682
before exported to EU countries.

QAM- 2012 version February

7.2.D

Attachment of small parts.

Subject to:
Small parts attached to garment.
Including but not limited to: snaps,
buttons, zipper components,
appliqus, patches, rhinestones,
beads, sequins, decorations, bows,
etc.

7.2.E

16

Standard:
EN 71-1 (Safety of toys Part 1
Mechanical and physical properties) /
General Product Safety Directive
(GPSD).

Information:
See section Manufacturing
instructions of this manual.

Needles & sharp edges of trims.

Subject to:
General garment.

Standard:
General Product Safety Directive
(GPSD).

Information:
See section Manufacturing
instructions of this manual.

QAM- 2012 version February

17

8. Inspection.
8.1

Intro.

Suppliers are responsible that the quality, colour and the workmanship of a garment are according Teidems
purchase order and style specifications. Teidem has developed the following set of tools to control the output:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Approval steps in a purchase portal See H2Work with Teidem.

Incoming material inspection by factory / buying agent, Teidem or Third party.
Inline inspection (Dupro) by factory / buying agent, Teidem or Third party.
Final Random Inspection (FRI) by agent, Teidem or Third party.

Approval steps are instructed in the H2Work with Teidem manual. The Incoming material inspection and the Inline
Inspection are the primarily responsibility of the factory and / or buying agent.
In this chapter only the FRI is described.

8.2

Final Random Inspection.

A Final Random Inspection:

Takes place when 100% of goods are finished and at least 80% is packed (ready for shipment).

Takes place in the factory plant of the supplier.

Is applicable to each shipment (Including repeat orders or partial shipments of one purchase order).

A Pass result of the inspection authorizes Shipment and triggers Payment.

A Final Random Inspection verifies:
1.
General order conformity.

General check of style, colours, quantity, etc.

2.
Production quality.

Material, workmanship, function, finishing & labelling check of randomly picked samples.

Measurements.
3.
Logistical quality aspects.

Check of packing list, packaging materials, box marking, etc.

8.3

Definition of Acceptable Quality Level (AQL).

An AQL is an inspection standard describing the maximum number of defects that could be considered acceptable
during the random sampling of an inspection.
An FRI based on AQL level is the most used inspection method and standard in the garments industry (ANSI/ASQC
(US national standard organization) Z1.4, BS 6001, ISO 2859).

8.4

Definition of defects.
Critical defect: Totally unacceptable; a defect that may result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individual
use; fail in functioning or legal regulations are not respected.
Major defect: Considered not to be accepted by end user; a defect that is likely to result in a failure or to reduce
the usability of the considered product.
Minor defect: Complaint sensitive, but most end users accept it; a defect that is a departure from initial
specifications and that is not likely to reduce the usability of the product.

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8.5

18

Inspection levels.

Three general Inspection Levels:

Level I: The likelihood of finding quality problems is lower than generally recommended. Fewer samples are
taken.

Level II: It is the most widely used inspection level, to be used by default. Used by Teidem

Level III: A supplier recently had quality problems. More samples are inspected.
The fourth special inspection level is not commonly used in the Ready Garment Industry and is not specifically
described in this manual.

8.6

8.7

8.8
1.

2.
3.

4.

Sample plans.
Single Sampling plan: One single inspection will give the final evaluation of the lot. The single Sampling method
requires a larger sampling volume than the other methods, but generally costs less per sample unit.
Double sampling plan: A second inspection may be required, depending on the results of the first inspection;
the second inspection will then give the final evaluation of the lot.
Multiple sampling plan: Same as the Double Sampling Method, but more than two inspections may be necessary.

Inspection severities.
Normal severity: There is no evidence that expected quality will be better or poorer than ordered quality.
Reduced severity: There is proof that a high quality level is expected; a smaller sample lot is allowed.
Tightened severity: There is reason to expect a poorer quality than ordered quality.

Drawing samples.
Random selection of sample lot.
Make sure each piece of the batch has an equal chance of being selected for the sample lot. And carefully
select the articles from a substantial number of cartons, so each carton is represented equally.
The sample lot must be drawn from first choice units only (A-grades).
Representative sampling of colour and size.
The number of pieces of the sample lot is depending on the shipment quantity (batch). Each colour and size
of the batch must be represented in the sample lot, proportional to the total number of pieces.
Sets.
Sets represent one inspection unit. For pre-packed articles, double-packs, the sample lot refers to the total
quantity of single pieces.

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8.9

19

Teidems AQL levels.

The AQL levels are a mathematical method and are predefined in below table:
AQL = 2.5
Total shipment
Defectives
Sample lot
quantity in pcs
in pcs
Accept
Reject
(batch size)
51 90
13
1
2
91 150
20
1
2
151 280
32
2
3
281 500
50
3
4
501 1200
80
5
6
1201 3200
125
7
8
3201 10000
200
10
11
10001 35000
315
14
15
35001 150000
500
21
22

AQL = 4.0
Defectives
Accept

Reject

1
2
3
5
7
10
14
21
21

2
3
4
6
8
11
15
22
22

For all inspections Teidem uses the following common industry standards:
Critical defects
Major defects
Minor defects
AQL 0 (zero)
AQL 2.5
AQL 4.0
Allowance of zero critical defects implies:
1. A critical defect is found the batch must be checked 100% on occurrence of that defect (100% check).
2. Any critical defective should be eliminated or repaired.

8.10

AQL inspection procedure.

AQL inspection procedure.

a)
Define batch size (shipment quantity).
b)
Find the # of pieces to be checked (sample lot) in the table.
c)
Find the # of accepted defectives in the table.
d)
Fill in the basic data of the final random inspection form.
e)
Cartons must be lined-up per 2 and 6 high. Several lines are possible, depending on the quantity of cartons.
f)
Walk around the lined up cartons and select with a marker randomly the number of cartons required.
g)
Open and check cartons one by one.
h)
Note the carton number and draw randomly from top-middle-bottom of carton the required samples.
i)
Do the inspection (carton, quantity, material, workmanship, function, finishing, labelling, measurements).
j)
Note results. Keep rejected samples separate and note missing pieces as per carton number.
k)
Count the number of defectives and check acceptance.
l)
Follow instructions on Final Random Inspection sheet.

QAM- 2012 version February

8.11

20

Example of sample lot calculation.

Shipment quantity (=Batch size) is 2000 units in 3 colours.
Sample size (=Lot size) according AQL table is 125 units.

Shipment quantity

Sample lot quantity

Colour

Units

Cartons

Units

Suggested # cartons

# samples / crtn

1000

40

(1000 / 2000) x 125 = 63

10-10-10-10-10-13

500

20

(500 / 2000) x 125 = 31

8-8-8-7

500

20

(500 / 2000) x 125 = 31

8-8-8-7

Total

2000

80

125

14

8.12

Teidems Qualification of defects.

Critical defects
Clear, conspicuous defect, which will immediately
lead to rejection.
Not meeting our minimum level of safety, optics,
durability or fit.
The defect will certainly lead to dissatisfactory of
our customer.
Major defects
Deviation from our desired quality standard, but
not critical.
Accumulation of minor defects.
The defect reduces the ability to sell the product.
The defect will is likely to cause annoyance of our
customer.

Minor defects
Small deviation from our desired quality standard.
Beauty defects, small defects at inconspicuous
place.
As a single defect not serious, but accumulation
in one product can lead to annoyance of the
customer.
Defects that are related to the make-up of the
product are generally classified as minor defects.

Examples
Neck opening too small for an average head birth.
Severely damaged material.
Detaching print/ heat transfer.
Attachment of small parts (buttons, rivets, snap fasteners,
etc.) are not according safety standard.
Inoperative zippers, buttons, snap fasteners and other
functional parts.
Examples
Tight button holes.
Wavy zipper insertion.
Unbalanced construction (e.g. uneven shoulder width).
Varying fabric quality.
Colour shade out of tolerance.
Holes.
Runs in knitwear (broken/loose stitches).
Clearly visible stains, dirt, mildew.
Breaking and unfinished seams.
Measurements out of tolerance (while article still usable).
Missing labels/ tags.
Examples
Small fabric irregularities/inconspicuous.
Small unwanted creases.
Slight seam puckering.
Uneven stitch density.
Slightly crooked seams.

Important. In case of any doubt about the classification of a certain defect, an independent quality expert should
make an objective decision, in line with the Teidem B.V. standards.

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8.13

21

Lessons learned from the past.

To learn from previous mistakes and reduce costs and claims in the future, the following list of quality problems:
1.

Testing problems.
Chemical testing
Not compliant with RSL, e.g. acrylamides (from AZO
dyes), Cadmium, Nickel and Allergenic Disperse dyes
etc*.
Problems with trimmings.
Zippers
Bad zipper quality (fake zippers): not running
smoothly, parts breaking/ sliders coming off easily*.
Bad zipper insertion: bumpy/wavy, hole, not
running smoothly.
Bad or missing top stop of zipper*.

Mechanical testing
Bad wet rubbing results.
Cross-staining problems.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Workmanship problems.
Seams & stitching
Loose and uncut thread-ends.
A run (slipping stitch) in knitwear.
Tensed yarns in woven fabric.
Holes in fabric due to mis-stitching or repairs.
Damages, holes, tensed/pulled yarns in fabric near
seams, due to damaged or wrong needles (in
knitwear no ballpoint needles may used (=
Schmetz type SUK)).
Tensed seams/ seam puckering.
Irregular seam allowance in width, stitch density or
topstitching.
Crotch/cross seam not reinforced.
Artwork & colour.
Artwork
Prints are sticky.
Prints washing off or breaking after washing*.
Embroideries coming apart/incorrectly attached*.
Applications coming off due to incorrect fixation*.

Other trimmings.
Sharp edges of zippers, snap fasteners, metal
buttons, eyelets or rivets*.
Snap fasteners, metal buttons, eyelets, rivets
incorrectly attached/coming off (=placement
on a seam or unequal surface)*.
Plastic washer missing (=unsuitable for type of
fabric or incorrect machine settings).
Beads/sequins/buttons incorrectly attached
and coming off much too easily*.

Other workmanship
Curved side slits due to narrow/short lining.
Padding coming out (at seams)/too thin
(wrong padding type).
Pockets not symmetrically placed/not placed
according instruction.
Cords/drawstrings incorrectly attached*.
Unopened/too tight buttonholes*.

Colour
Colour out of tolerance.
Colour differences within one unit or between
units of one order.

General.
General
Spots: oil, dirt, chalk, pen, glue spots of the interlining (strike-through).
Shiny pressure marks from ironing
Smelly garments, due to moisture
Smelly garments due to incorrect printing/tanning/packing (also see bad odour in RSL)

Attention: The * problems are critical defects (Product Safety issues).

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22

9. Packaging.
9.1

Carton specifications.

1.

Modular sizes.
Packaging is a crucial part of the supplied product. Suppliers should use export cartons in modular sizes. This
assures maximum loading efficiency of our pallets (80cm x 120cm).

2.

Carton footprint.
The next table shows our standard carton footprint of modular sizes (Length x Width). The height may be
flexible since the decisive factor is that cartons are filled optimally and therefore stackable. This is also related
to the laying and folding of the goods.
CM
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

Carton modular size - outside

Length
Width
40
30
30
20
60
40
40
40
80
40
80
60
60
40

Carton dimensions - inside

Length
Width
38
28
28
18
58
38
38
38
78
38
78
58
58
38

We do not accept overloaded cartons because they are not properly stackable and disturb our warehouse
processing!
3.

Quality cartons.
All goods ordered by Teidem B.V. have to be packed in a suitable quality American box. This also includes
our inner cartons.

Fluting qlty
Test lining (all)

Option 1: Double flute BC

7 mm thickness.
200 / 120 / 140 grams

Option 2: Tri wall

7 mm thickness.
140 / 140+140 / 140 grams

Example

4.

Staples & straps.

Do not use cartons that contain staples, other sharp elements or straps.

Staples are
not allowed!

QAM- 2012 version February

9.2

Carton packaging and marking.

1.

Gross weight.
Gross weight per box including goods may not be more than 15KG.

2.

Box marking.
Box markings must be as mentioned on the purchase/production order sheet. For special information check
the Purchase Order. The minimal information that must be specified on a box is:

3.

Teidem BV article + order number.

Contents per box in pieces / sets / pairs.
Gross weight per box in KG.
Nett weight per box in KG.
Dimension of the box in centimetres, (example: 40 X 20 X 20 cm).
Number of boxes, (example: 120 cartons, 1/120, 2/120, 3/120, 4/120, 5/120 etc...)
Contents per box in pieces / sets / pairs.
Gross + net weight per box in KG.
Dimension of the box in centimetres (example: 40 X 20 X 20 cm).
Box number/ total number boxes (example: 120 cartons gives: 1/120, 2/120, 3/120, 4/120, 5/120 etc...).

Examples.

Correct

Incorrect
4.

23

Correct

Incorrect

Inner box markings.

See box marking, here above. Polybags may not be used instead of inner boxes.

QAM- 2012 version February

9.3
1.

24

Stacking, Loading & stuffing.

Carton stacking.

Cartons must be stacked vertically & horizontally aligned.

Big cartons (heavy) below and small/flat (light) cartons on top.

Do not throw cartons, while they will become weak and implode in transit in the container.

Correct.

Bad result

2.

Pallet loading (if applicable).

Cartons may not protrude from the pallets.

Use pallet carton-sheet under load.

Pallet load must be stable.

Use of stretch film is allowed.

Pallet type: Euro pallet 80 x 120 cm.

Pallet height: maximum 190 cm (including pallet itself).

Pallet weight: maximum 450 kg.

Case stacking. Column, properly secured!

3.

Container stuffing.
Please send these instructions also to your shipping partners. For a visual of a stuffing plan, please check
appendix Loading/ stuffing plan. Some general rules:

Do not overload a container (crushed cartons not allowed)

Load container according to the appendix Loading/ stuffing plan.

Always mention container number and seal number (see appendix Loading/ stuffing plan).

Make sure that a correctly detailed packing list is sent to Teidem B.V., at the moment the goods leave
your warehouse.

The packing list must send by email to our shipping department (see H2Work with Teidem).

An example of a correctly detailed packing list will be sent to you on request.

4.

Penalties.
Following up our request is a matter of discipline. Not following up these packaging rules will result in extra
efforts and costs for Teidem. Teidem monitors the performance of each supplier and respond with a penalty
system per failure.
Each shortcoming in this regard compels us to charge you 2,50 per carton/failure.

QAM- 2012 version February

9.4

25

Packing of garments with coated fabrics or Plastisol prints.

1.

Plastisol- or rubberized prints.

To avoid staining, no contact in packing is allowed between PVC/PU coated fabrics or Plastisol / rubberized
prints with:

Polyester fabrics and trimmings.

Ink of price tags.

This instruction is important for light colored PVC / PU coated fabrics and Plastisol / rubberized prints in
combination with dark colored polyester material / printed price tags.

2.

Examples of materials containing polyester.

Fabrics:
polar fleece, micro fleece, mesh hole lining and T/C.
Trimmings:
strings, hook & loop (Velcro), labels, zipper tape, sewing thread and fancy tape.

3.

Packaging instructions.
a) Ask your buyer to accept the following:
Blotting paper or a thin plastic sheet between each garment/on each print.
Individual packing of garment in a polybag.
b) Printed tags must not make contact with PVC / PU coated fabric or plastisol/rubberized prints.
Put the tag inside the garment
Wrap the tag in blotting (tissue) paper.
c) Put polyester strings/cords or other loose trimmings inside garment.
d) In case the hood lining is containing polyester, put the hood inside garment.
e) In case the lining of turn up cuffs is containing polyester do not turn up the sleeves.
IN CASE OF DOUBT CHECK THE PURCHASE ORDER OR ASK YOUR BUYER AT TEIDEM.