Fabric Inspection

Guideline

J.C. Penney Purchasing Corporation, All Rights Reserved

Proprietary and Confidential Document

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Overview

2
2. Requirements

.2
2.1.
JCPenney Reference Documents
2
2.2.
Fabric Information Sheets (FIS)
2
2.3.
Approved Fabric Reference
2
2.4.
Roll Ticket Information
....2
2.5.
Inspection Equipment...
.3
3. Inspection Procedure .
....
.4
3.1.
Inspection Quantity
...
.4
3.2.
Four Point System
..
....4
3.3.
Color Continuity

.4
3.4.
Weight

..5
3.5.
Construction

.5
3.6.
Cuttable Width
.
.6
3.7.
Roll Length

.6
3.8.
Splices/Joints

6
J.C. Penney Purchasing Corporation, All Rights Reserved | Proprietary and Confidential Document

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

3.9.
Fabric Odor

6
3.10.Bowing/Skewing

..6
4. Defects and Tolerances

8
4.1.
Points Calculation
..
..8
4.2.
Acceptance Point-Count.
8
5. Fabric Inspection Report
.9

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

1.0 OVERVIEW

Quality softline products begin with quality fabric. This guideline

provides recommendations to ensure fabric is of good quality and
is suitable for the intended garment, including garment
treatments. It is the dual responsibility of the JCPenney supplier
and fabric supplier to conduct fabric inspections in order to
eliminate many quality problems before the manufacturing
process begins. Visual inspections should be performed in
accordance to ASTM D5430 Standard Test methods for Visually
Inspecting and Grading Fabrics (Option A Four Point System).
Occasions may arise in which the mill and cutter may agree to
accept fabric that falls outside the guidelines set forth in this
document. If at any time the mill and cutter are in disagreement
over the acceptability of a fabric shipment, the JCPenney IBO
Fabric Manager should be contacted to review the case.

2.0 REQUIREMENTS

2.1 JCPenney Reference Documents

The JCPenney supplier is required to provide and ensure their
fabric suppliers are in compliance of the following documents
and procedures:
JCPenney Restricted Substances List
JCPenney Testing Protocols
JCPenney Defect Classification
JCPenney Color Development and Approval Process
JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline
JCPenney Fabric Information Sheet (FIS)
JCPenney Intentional Color Loss Programs Process
2.2 Fabric Information Sheets (FIS)
Fabric specification and performance parameters are agreed on
at the quotation stage between JCPenney and the garment
supplier and/or fabric supplier. This information is documented
on the Fabric Information Sheet (FIS).
Part A Fabric information given by the fabric mill
Part B Fabric performance test results according to the
fabric supplier
2.3 Approved Fabric Reference
A reference swatch of the approved fabric in all colorways must
be available during visual fabric inspection. Swatch should be
minimum 10x10 in. (25x25 cm) in size and should accurately
represent the correct look, hand and feel.

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

2.4 Roll Ticket Information
The fabric supplier must mark each roll with the following
information:
Fabric Mill
Fabric Description
Fiber Content
JCPenney Color Standard Name and Number
Roll Number
Roll Length
Cuttable Width
Production Lot
Shade
2.5 Inspection Equipment
A Fabric Inspection Machine providing:
o A Flat Viewing Area
o Interruptible Speed Controlled Fabric Rewind
o Meter/Yardage Counter
o Overhead and transmitted (back) lighting with
minimum 1075 lux (100 foot candles) (Note: For
some fabrications, back lighting may not be ideal.
Mill and cutter should agree if necessary.)
o Over feed capability, if inspecting stretch
If the mill does not have the above specified equipment,
the inspection should be carried out on a flat table that is
wide enough to hold the fabric in full width and 3 yards in
length. The table must be equipped with the proper
lighting mounted 4 above the table.
A light booth with JCPenneys specified light sources
o Ultralume UL30 (narrow band fluorescent at 3000K)
o Average North Sky Daylight CIE D65 (filtered
tungsten daylight at 6500K)
o CIE Illuminant A (incandescent at 2856K)
o Ultraviolet (UV)

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

3.0 INSPECTION PROCEDURE

3.1 Inspection Quantity

For shipments that total 1000 yards (meters) or less, a
100% visual inspection should be conducted on all rolls.
For shipments that exceed 1000 yards (meters), JCPenney
expects cutter to perform minimum 10% inspection of the
bulk fabric quantity. Fabric mills should perform 100%
self-inspections.
Cutter should select at least one roll of each shade group
for every colorway/print pattern, even if more than 10%.

3.2
Four Point System
Fabric should be inspected in accordance with ASTM D5430
Standard Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading
Fabrics (Option A 4 Point System). No more than 4 points shall
be assigned per each linear yard (or meter), regardless of the
size of the individual defects. 4 point defects should be marked
with colored threads or stickers. See Table 1 for point
assignments. Fabric should be inspected at a speed comfortable
to the inspector and according to the fabric quality.
TABLE 1
Size of Defect
3 inches or less
Over 3, but less than 6
inches
Over 6, but less than 9
inches
Over 9 inches

Points
1
2
3
4

3.3
Color Continuity
The JCPenney Global Color Group has a specific process in place
to capture color inspiration, convert it to a specification, and
work with the supply chain to assure that production is executed
as it was envisioned by the designer. The method of evaluation
will determine the standard to follow for production (See Table 2).
Please refer to JCPenneys Color Development and Approval
Process Overview, available on the supplier website, for details.

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

Table 2
Method of Evaluation

Standard

Solids:
Digital

QTX Digital File Archroma/Pantone Standard*

Digital BCD (Best Can

Do)

QTX Digital File of approved Lab

dip*

Visual

Physical Lab dip*

Visual BCD (Best Can

Do)

Physical Lab dip*

Patterns:
Prints

Approved Strike Off*

Yarn Dyes

Approved Hand Loom*

*Unless the 1st production lot is approved as BCD, then 1st

production BCD approval becomes the standard

Production Lot Records

The JCPenney fabric/dyeing mill must keep representative
records from each distinct production lot. Samples in 3x
3 (8 x 8 cm) minimum size for solids and full repeat for
patterns should be kept. Record keeping sample
requirements are defined by the dyeing process below.
JCPenney recommends spectrophotometric
measurements to accompany these records.
o
Continuous Dyeing

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

3.4

Production lots less than 10,000 yards - samples

taken every 1/10th of the lot

Production lots greater than 10,000 yards

samples taken every 1000 yards
o
Exhaust Dyeing

Samples must be taken at the beginning, end

and side-center-side (total of 5 samples)
o
Print/Patterns

Samples of the full repeat must be taken at the

beginning, end and side-center-side (total of 5
samples)
Shade Sorting
Method of shade sorting must be agreed upon between
the fabric mill and the garment supplier. Sewn garment,
or finished product, must meet JCPenney Softline
Defect Classification requirement of gray scale 4-5 within
the garment and within a set, as required by the
JCPenney Quality Assurance Team.
Garment Wash Programs
For programs designated as Intentional Color Loss
programs, please follow our Intentional Color Loss
program wash blanket process. The garment supplier is
responsible for advising the fabric mill if the program is a
garment wash program.

Weight
Check weight on minimum 10% of the rolls chosen for
inspection against ASTM D3776-09ae1 Option C.
Weight should correspond to weight stated on Fabric
Information Sheet.
If the fabric weight is out of tolerance (see Table 3), the
roll has failed.
TABLE 3
Fabric Weight Tolerance
Woven:
<5 oz./yd.2 (169.6
g/m2)
5 oz./yd.2 (169.6
g/m2)

+/- 10% maximum

-5% / +10% maximum

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

Knit:

(Poly Polar
Fleece)

<5 oz./yd.2 (169.6

g/m2)
5 oz./yd.2 (169.6
g/m2)
5 oz./yd.2 (169.6
g/m2)

-5% / +10% maximum

-5% / +5% maximum
-5% / +10% maximum

3.5
Construction
Check threads/sq. in. or courses/wales on 5 random pieces. If the
average count is out of tolerance (+/- 5%), the roll has failed.
3.6
Cuttable Width
Measure the cuttable width (between needle holes at selvages)
at least 3 times on the roll at beginning, middle and end. If the
cuttable width is below the minimum width, the roll is failed.
3.7

Roll Length
Roll length minimum requirements should be agreed upon
between the garment supplier and fabric mill.
Roll length stated on the roll ticket must be verified
against the actual roll length measured by the fabric
checking machine.
If the deviation is 1% less, length should be double
checked on a cutting table.

3.8

Splices/Joints
Minimum splice length is 30 yds.
Splice location must be noted on the individual roll
inspection report.
4 penalty points will be assigned for each splice/join. No
roll is allowed to contain more than 2 splice/join.

3.9

3.10

Fabric Odor
Roll that emits an unpleasant odor, has failed.

Bowing/Skewing
Check fabric for bowing or skewing
Bow a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular
to the selvages and form one or more arcs across the
width of fabric. (ASTM D3990)

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

Skew a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or

knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line
perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric. (ASTM
D3990)
Fabric Width

Calculation:
A
Cuttable
Width

100 =
Max %

Rolls that exceed the following tolerance have failed:

TABLE 4
Fabrication

Woven Knits
s
3%
Fabric must meet the Softline Defect
3%
Classification requirement for
4%
skewed/bowed/biased fabric in garment
stage.

Solid Colors
Stripes/Yarn
Dyes
Prints
Exception:
Skewing is a characteristic for woven twill/satin
constructions and for knits. In some cases the bowing or
skewing may be addressed in cut and sew. The level of
skew must therefore be agreed on between the
supplier and fabric mill up front and stated on the
Fabric Information Sheet.

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

The JCP garment supplier must check twisting and eventual
distortion on garment after:
Eventual garment treatment.
Washing according to care instruction.
In case of inconsistent skewing/twisting in between
inspected rolls the inspection has failed.

4.0 DEFECTS AND TOLERANCES

4.1

Points Calculation

Points/100
yd2

(Points X 3600)
(Cuttable Width in inches X Yards
Inspected)

4.2
Acceptance Point-Count
TABLE 5
Group
Number
I

II

III

IV

Fabrications
Dress Shirting
(50s)
Worsted Fabric
Woven Shirting
(50s)
Woven Synthetic
Twill
Tailored Suiting
Basic Knits, Specialty
Knits
Flannel, Chamois
Canvas
Chambray
Corduroy, Velvet
Fleece, French Terry
Dobby, Jacquard
Denim
Rayon Challis
Linen, Linen Blends
Slub Jersey
Silk
Indian power loom

Points per 100 yd2

Max Points
Max Points
per Roll
per
Shipment
15

12

20

15

25

20

40

32

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline

5.0 FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT

JCPenney requires the following information to be included on the

Fabric Inspection Report:
Inspection Date
Fabric Supplier
Garment Supplier
Fabric Mill Reference #
Fabric Description
Color Name
Shade
Dye Lot Number
Roll Number
Roll Length
o Ticketed
o Actual
Cuttable Width
o Ticketed
o Actual
Bowing/Skewing
Total Points in Roll
Points/100 yd2
Result: Pass or Fail
Total yards inspected
Total rolls inspected
A template of our Fabric Inspection Report is attached and can
also be found on the JCPenney Supplier Website.

JCPenney Fabric Inspection Guideline