Big i

’ve been to Hawaii before, but never to its largest isle and
am eager to see what all the buzz is about. The “baby”
of the archipelago — born less than a million years
ago — the Big Island is known for its stunning diversity
which includes everything from tropical rainforests
and otherworldly lava deserts to uncrowded beaches of
white, black, and green (yes, green) sand. There’s even
an active volcano (the most active on the planet) to keep
things interesting.
Since sun is a non-negotiable requirement, Robert and I

Island
opt for the island’s Kona side, zeroing in on the Kohala area
which claims the highest number of sunny days of anywhere
in the entire state. Having heard great things about The
Fairmont Orchid, we choose it for our paradisiacal pied-

Bliss
à-terre. Especially appealing to us: Unlike so many resorts
that simply appease sun-starved visitors with chaise lounges
and swim-up bars, The Fairmont Orchid goes the extra
mile, offering a wide range of outdoor activities, many with
a cultural focus.
Here, you can learn how to paddle Hawaiian outrigger
canoes, try your hand at shoreline holoholo (fishing) from
a double-hulled canoe, embark with a guide on a two-hour
kayaking adventure in Pauoa Bay, or snorkel in the company
From hiking and horseback riding of eagle rays and honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) directly
to seaside yoga and stargazing, from the hotel’s picture-perfect white-sand beach. The
Fairmont Orchid’s affable beachboys — reminiscent of
Hawaii’s culture — and sun —
the buff Waikiki beachboys of decades past — direct all
provide the perfect cure. activities. Master surfers all, they love getting novices up on
a board for the first time. So, if you’re dying to learn how to
By Anita Carmin hang ten, this is the place.
More Big Island Bliss on page 28 P
It was a particularly long winter —
even for this native Seattleite and
her East Coast–grown boyfriend. The
weather had clearly taken its toll. Our
self-diagnosis: acute wanderlust. The
Rx: a shot of sunshine and a dose of
boomer-appropriate (read no bungy
jumping) adventure far away from the
everyday, yet — given our one-week
window in April — close to home. The
Big Island, we decide, is just what the
doctor ordered. P
Luau dancers light up the night.

Paradisiacal pied-à-terre: seaside at The Fairmont Orchid.

26 Virtuoso Insights Virtuoso Insights 27

 In an earlier life, I might have considered surfing lessons
myself. On this trip, however, I sign my risk-averse self up for
the cultural hike and am lucky enough to have a beachboy/
historian all to myself. Departing early in the morning with
walking sticks, water, and sun hats, we set out on the nearby
Kalahuipua’a Trail, which offers a plethora of archaeological
sites. We explore an underground city of caves used by the
ancient Hawaiians, visualizing where they likely ate, slept,
and socialized. We examine the petroglyph of a warrior holding
his spear aloft, and we wander past the enormous fishponds
which once were the source of food for the mighty ali’i
(Hawaiian chiefs).
Following my hike, I meet up with a very relaxed Robert who
has elected to spend his morning in a more Zen-like state —
with a 90-minute seaside yoga session, one of the hotel’s
“Paradise Within” offerings that also include aqua fitness and
core strength conditioning.

L
ater in the week, Robert and I finally tear ourselves away
from the resort and make our way to the Waipi’o Valley
for a sightseeing adventure via horse. Located on the
island’s northeast coast, this grand valley — a mile wide

C u n a r d Ad
and nearly six miles deep — is often referred to as the
Valley of the Kings, as many of Hawaii’s rulers once lived
here. I can see why. From top: Falling for The Fairmont Orchid;
Uncommonly beautiful, this emerald Eden boasts six dramatic beachboys at sea; and Waipi’o Valley verdure meets
waterfalls and is edged by a mile-long black-sand beach. Back in beaches of black sand.
its heyday, the valley housed thousands of residents. Today, some
50 intrepid souls reside here — sans all creature comforts —
amid herds of wild horses abandoned after the 1946 tsunami.
We glean such fascinating tidbits during our trail ride along the
valley’s upper rim. Fortunately for me — a novice equestrian —
my horse is not wild although he does, at one point, take me
perilously close (in my opinion) to the edge of a steep cliff to
admire the view. “Not to worry,” our guide humors me as he
pulls up alongside. “We haven’t lost a guest yet.”

More Big Island Bliss on page 30 P

Equine empire: wild horses reign in the Valley of the Kings.

28 Virtuoso Insights

at Paws Up, Montana.
A
fter hours on a horse, this cowgirl is famished. We
jump in the car and hit the trail for Huli Sue’s, a funky
little BBQ place in Waimea recommended by the
hotel concierge. We devour a succulent half chicken
with paniolo-chipotle sauce, sides of black beans and
corn pudding, and a fat piece of banana cream pie.
This would be the perfect ending to a perfect day, but
back at The Fairmont Orchid, a stellar adventure still awaits.
Every Friday night, local astronomer Wayne Fukunaga invites
guests to peer into his enormously powerful Celestron telescope
set up on the pool deck.
Wayne’s fascination with the stars, he tells us, dates back
to his childhood. Forty-plus years later, he is still passionate
about sharing his extensive knowledge of the heavens with
visitors to the Big Island. Tonight, Wayne deftly locates comets,
constellations, star clusters, and “infant stars” just for us. I
can’t stop marveling at the crater-dotted moon and a storybook-
looking Saturn which Wayne knows just where to find.
I realize I’ll never look at the night sky in quite the same light
again. And I thank my lucky stars for such an illuminating week
on this heavenly isle.
Heaven on Earth: The Fairmont
Orchid’s “Spa Without Walls.”
Doing it
Visiting the Big Island
Commanding 32 beachfront acres on the Big Island’s Kohala
Coast, The Fairmont Orchid offers a host of soft-adventure
activities such as the popular “GET IN THE WATER!” program
that includes snorkeling and surfing instruction. The resort also
features the award-winning Spa Without Walls and access to
the adjacent championship Francis H. I’i Brown–golf courses.
Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade, if available; daily buffet
breakfast; two Virtuoso Fun & Sun Activity Passes; and early
check-in, if available. From $449 per room, per night.
30 Virtuoso Insights
Angler’s paradise: The Resort
MORE CLOSE-TO-HOME
SOFT ADVENTURES
TO TAKE YOU FAR BEYOND
Vermont Biking
Pedal through picture-perfect New England towns
and pastoral landscape blanketed in autumn colors
on this six-day cycling tour with Backroads. Visit
historic Weston, wander Woodstock’s charming
streets, and watch glass artisans at work. Departs
Sept. 13, 20, 27; Oct. 4, 2009. From $2,898 per person.
Fly-Fishing in Montana
Oce a n i a Ad
Cast your line in angler’s paradise along the banks
of the legendary Blackfoot River. This five-day, all-
inclusive package from The Resort at Paws Up
includes two full days of fly-fishing, box of custom
flies, state fishing license, and more. Available
through Oct. 31, 2009. From $834 per night.
Grand Canyon Adventure
Take the family four-wheeling across the magical
mesas of Monument Valley, raft along the Colorado
River, and hike through both Arches National Park
and the glorious Grand Canyon on this eight-day
journey with Adventures by Disney. Available
through Oct. 17, 2009. From $2,609 per adult; $2,349
per child.
Bear Watching in British Columbia
During late summer at Clayoquot Wilderness
Resort, the local black bears really put on a show.
Located just off Vancouver Island in the diverse
Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve, the resort is
ideal for whale watching and myriad other activities,
as well. Contact your Virtuoso travel advisor for up-to-
the-minute pricing.
Mexico’s Monarch Migration
Find yourself amidst thousands of fluttering,
fantastical monarch butterflies as they make their
annual migration across Mexico. Join Horizon &
Co. on a journey of the imagination from Mexico
City to the Angaguejo Monarch Reserve and the
Yucatán Peninsula. Available November 24, 2009.
Tailor-made tours from $3,950 per person.