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Crochet Teddy Bear Youtube Tutorial

Hello Friends!
This bear is approximately 6-8 inches tall in a sitting position
depending what on yarn weight and hook size. Scroll down
this page for the pattern. Look for the green print friendly
button at the bottom of the page and there you
will also find the option to leave a donation. Thank you so
very much and enjoy!

Copyright 2014 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All

rights reserved

How to read the rows:

Each row has a sequence as given below. Example: 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that
sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that
particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at
the end of that particular row.

Add in a marker at the end of row 2 and move that marker at the end of every row. Work in
continuous rounds, do not join.

Supplies:
Feel free to use any color or yarn weight with the appropriate hook size but I will give you the color
codes, yarn brand and hook size for the bears pictured in the cover photo.
Red Heart Comfort Yarn (Beige Bear - Tan 3167, White Bear 3130, Bluish Bear - Turquoise 3185)
4.0 mm hook *use a smaller hook if you see gaps in your stitches blunt end yarn needle for sewing
scissors
100% polyester stuffing
fabric glue
optional ~ felt for behind the eyes
you can use buttons, a french knot or paint eyes on. I used safety eyes that I glued in place. I used
7.5mm and also 10mm for the bears pictured.
Abbreviations:
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together

f/o = finish off

dc = double crochet (used only for toes and thumbs and is optional)

*For the video tutorial click here

Starting at the top of the head working down to bottom of body:

1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
7-14) 1sc in each st for 8 rows
15) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
16) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
17) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
18) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
19) 1sc in each st for 1 row
20) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (18) *stuff and shape head. You can add more stuffing into the head over the
next few rows
21) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st ( 24)
22) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)
23-25) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
26) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)
27) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)
28) 1sc in each st for 1 row
29) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)
30) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (30)
31) 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)
32) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18) *stuff and shape body. Make sure to add stuffing into the neck area if needed. You
can stuff more into the body over the next 2 rows.
33) 1sc then 2tog (12)
34) 1sc then 2tog (8)
35) 2tog twice then f/o and use yarn tail to weave in and out of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close the gap, knot
off and hide yarn tail inside the body.
Ears:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (21)
5) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (18)
6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (15)
7) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Fold flat and shape. Pin to the top of the head
then sew in place.
Muzzle:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc in each st for 1 row
sl st next st and f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Add a nose with black embroidery thread. Do not stuff the muzzle.
Arms:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (14)
4-5) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
6) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (12)
7-9) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
10) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)
f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff hand and lightly stuff arm.
You can add a thumb by inserting yarn in between the 5th and 6th row and making 2dc then f/o , shape and hide
yarn tails inside arm.
Legs:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)
5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows
7) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)
8) 2tog 4 times then 1sc in next 10st (14)
9) 2tog twice then 1sc in next 10st (12)
10-12) 1sc in each st for 3 rows
stuff and shape the foot, stuff the bottom of the leg lightly, leave the top of the leg free of stuffing. Squish the top of
the leg together and sc through both sides of the leg across the top for one row. f/o leaving a tail for sewing.
Optional: add 4 toes the same way you made the thumbs. I made the toes on the 5th row with a small space
between each toe.
Tail:
1) magic circle or adjustable loop with 6st (6)
2) 2sc in each (12)
3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)
4) 1sc then 2tog (12)
sl st next st and f/o leaving a tail for sewing
Assembly:
I placed the eyes in between the 10th and 11th row with about 6-7 stitches between them.
The top of the muzzle is just above the 11th row
Pin the ears on and play around with placement before sewing them in place
The arms are sewn directly under the head. Add a s titch or 2 from under the arm to the body to tack the arm down if
they are flaring out too far.
Sew the legs flat to the underside of the body so that the bear sits.

And now you're done. I hope you enjoy your Little Bear! Post
pictures on my facebook page Amigurumi Freely. Or post
them on instagram with the hashtag Sharon_Ojala.

Donations of any size are greatly appreciated and help

keep the patterns free. If you do give a donation, please
accept this note as my sincere thanks and know that you
have helped a great deal.
Many Blessings to you!

Copyright Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights

reserved
You may sell finished products. Do not reprint this pattern on
any site, magazine or book. If you'd like to share this pattern
please provide a link back to it.