Marker making preparation and its factors

8:24 AM

Some preliminary steps would be followed before marker making to gain optimum
margin in bulk production. Nowadays modern technologies are used to increase
marker efficiency. If, it is not available then manual method is used to do marker
making. Fabric natures, standards of fabric consumption, grain line direction and
characteristics of pattern pieces are the main factors that affect marker efficiency.
The common tricks which are being used for marker making has described below.
* Cutting Table: marker planner should consider the cutting table length and
width before marker making. Cutting table length must be more than the marker
length for smooth operation.

* Fabric part: an expert marker maker should amalgamate all big parts together
during marker making and then insert other small parts into the gap to enhance the
marker efficiency. They have to understand that about 90% marker efficiency is
desired to garments manufacturer.
* Fabric Faults: marker man should consider fabric quality report during marker
making. If found any defects in a fabric roll and it was marked by quality that
points must be avoided for quality production and to least the fabric wastage.
* Marking Grain Line: the grain line of pattern and fabric must be marked before
start marker making. Grain line direction will optimize marker efficiency.

* Fabric Measurement: fabric width must be measured carefully before marker

making. Because, marker width always depends on fabric width to minimize lose.
Moreover, fabric ply should be 1 (one inch) bigger than marker width to remove
uneven fabric edge.
Greater fabric savings after lower total cost would normally result, from cutting a
stepped lay with paper markers on top.
However, for greater interest, a marker maker needs to work with freedom and
efficiently but for maintaining proper quality some criteria must be followed. That
is why there are some limitations of marker making. Qualified marker man is
required to improve the marker efficiency as profit margin depends on it.
Marker

Methods of Marker Making

7:27 PM

Introduction: It is a process of cutting arrangement during large quantity of

garments production. During marker making, pattern of garment parts drawn on a
big paper considering fabric width, garments size ration, fabric fault and cutting
table width, length etc. It is mention-able that bulk quantities of garment cannot be
cut without marker and marker efficiency is depending on what already explained.
Types of marker:
There are four kinds of marker such as:
1. Shading marker, 2. Non shading marker, 3. Group marker, 4. One /two way
marker.
There are two methods usually used for marker making in apparel industry.
i. Manual method.
ii. Computerized method.

Manual method:
This is the oldest, traditional and typically used method for marker making in
garments industry. In these processes all pattern pieces made by pattern maker
manually and after that fabric need to spread on cutting table and set up all pattern
pieces directly onto the fabric layer. Then mark by chalk, pencil or pen. Production
cost and fabric lose more than computerized method but output is nothing than
expectation. This process needs more time, practice and experience but efficiency
and accuracy is not satisfactory. Generally small factories may follow this process
considering high set up cost of modern computerized method.
Computerized method:
Generally this process marker has to be drawn on a marker paper. All the desired
pattern pieces amalgamate by computer and print out through a thin marker paper.
Then the marker paper placed on fabric layer and used for fabric cutting. During
marker making, fabric length and width, cutting table size must be taken under
consideration to minimize the wastage.
Computerized Marker paper directly set up on fabric layer. Fabric need to cut
according to marking.

The merits and demerits of computerized method are given bellow comparing with
the manual method.
Merits
1) It cans accurate sharp corners & circular patterns with notch.
2) For diminish wastage of fabric
3) For low production cost
4) For low labor cost
5) For less time consumption
6) Marker can be prepared quickly than manual method
7) Marker can be kept long time in computerized system with high security
8) Neat and clean working environment than manual method.
9) Though Initial investment is high but long time rate of return.
10) More appropriate for huge range production than the manual method.
11) Marker effectiveness and accuracy is higher than manual.
12) If required, marker could be print out and can send the marker to buyer along
with the sample for their review.
13) Grading of the pattern could be done automatically.
Demerits

1) More skilled efficient operator is

needed than manual.
2) Primary investment is higher than manual.
3) Need much money and technical support for maintenance.
Buyer always relies on computerized method due to its various facilities.
Moreover, it will attract buyers focus and increase their satisfaction too with its
modern facilities. However, everything has its optimistic and unenthusiastic
effects. But if we think for long time goal, the merits of computerized marker are

more than the manual. It will increase the efficiency, accuracy, production
capability and work-ability of any factory. It will save valuable time and minimize
fabric wastage what save money too.

Pattern Grading and Marker Making

Techniques
2:16 AM

Introduction: Grading means step wise increase or decrease of a master pattern

piece to develop different size. Usually grading modifies the overall size of a
design to fit different ages people. Pattern is an imperative part of any garment's
industry. It is one kind of size forma which is needed to cut a large quantity of
garment parts. To get accuracy, efficiency and high performance in garments
industry, must need skilled pattern team.
Types of pattern: there are four kinds of pattern such as:
1. Basic pattern
2. Cutting pattern
3. Sewing pattern
4. Finish pattern.
Usually pattern grading done by pattern maker in pattern section. Pattern maker
did it by following buyers spec sheet provided grading formula/measurement.
Basically pattern grading depends on regional atmosphere like peoples physical
structure, features, test and habit etc. Suppose physical structure of Asian people
may vary to Europe or United States. During grading if found any unclear point,
pattern maker should check with merchandiser to request buyer to rectify those
inequalities.
Though, pattern grading is accomplished by some basic points. Those points are
mention below:

Marker making:
Marker making is a technique where have to arrange all the pattern pieces on the
paper/fabric before cutting. This may be done by drawing the pattern pieces on the
fabric directly or by drawing the pattern pieces on a thin marker paper and then
place the paper onto the fabric layer. Nowadays marker making task complete
accomplished by computerize machine to smoother the production process. By
computerized marker making process, firstly enter the production pattern in
computer memory. By using grad rule we will get all size of pattern. Here normally
use computer screen, key board, computerized plotter, marker paper and light
pencil etc. There are some techniques to minimize central fabric wastage outside of
the marker like as minimize loss of fabric ends, minimize ends of ply losses,
minimize purchase looses, minimize selvage looses. So, we can identify the marker
like bellow.
Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes of a
particular style of garments in such a way that the fabric wastage would be least.
The main purpose of marker is to place it onto the fabric layer and provide right
direction for cutting. Marker width is equal to the minimum fabric width and its
length depends on the number of pattern sizes that will be drawn or cutting table
dimensions. The technique of constrain marker making is firstly big pattern are
placed in marker paper then comparatively small pattern are placed. Then shake
the pattern on marker for placement in short area. We can calculate marker
efficiency by the following way. Marker efficiency = (Patterns area in marker
paper / Marker area) * 100
So, now we can realize marker making is very important element in apparel

industry to achieve the highest usage of fabric item and for minimize fabric
wastage. By gaining better marker efficiency, we can reduce fabric wastage to cut
our cost so that our profit margin will be high.
The formula of Marker efficiency shown below-

As we know the fabric cost of a garment is required 50% (percent) of total value.
So, if 1% fabric cost is possible to save by efficient marker, this will increase the
profit margin. So the proportion of marker making efficiency is very important to
gain profit margin. The variable facts of marker making mentioned belowa) Garment type
b) Order quantity
c) Sizes of the garment
d) Length of the marker
e) Marker maker efficiency
f) Pattern engineering
f) Fabric and other material nature/type
h) Marker width
i) Way of marker making etc.
Pattern

Procedure of Pattern Making

8:19 AM

The importance and necessity of pattern maker in apparel industry is inexpressible.

A pattern maker can convert fashion designers imagination to the materialized. A
pattern maker is he who makes garment pattern based on Fashion designers/Design
team provided idea/sketch. The sustainable of a design mostly depends on pattern
makers expertise, efficiency and capability. As we know the fabric cost of a
garment is required 50% (percent) of total value. So, if 1% fabric cost is possible to
save by efficient pattern maker, this will increase the profit margin. So we can
easily realize the significance role of a pattern maker in apparel industry to gain the
profit margin.
A pattern maker working procedure has mentioned below.

A) Work Sheet Review

1) Have to review all the packages/ program completely point by point for clear
understanding. For this task pattern maker should consult with concern
merchandiser regularly.
2) Ask merchandiser to collect all basic information or development manual from
buyer to review.
3) Have to confirm all the packages are clearly understood. It will be better if
receive any reference sample from buyers end to review.
4) Have to know sample development schedule and dispatch time before start
pattern.
5) If any confutation or unclear point, should clear it before start pattern making.
B) Basic Pattern
1) Check previous season or buyer mention block to avoid fit problem.
2) Check block measurement and write beside of new style measurement sheet.
3) Should carefully rectify block for new style.
4) Consider measurement loose for sewing, refer to previous similar style.
5) Consider the design line from mark sample or sketch.
6) If available copy pattern construction from previous style.
7) Should use mark and pin sample to make new style pattern.
8) Should apply update comments to avoid any missing and mistake.
C) Style Pattern
1) Before create the style pattern have to understand all the construction clearly.
2) Have to understand importance of notches & internals for details.
3) Have understood seam allowance requirements based on machine & product
construction.
4) Add fabrication as mention BOM with compare sketch details.
5) Proceed to make lining pattern from shell pattern based on style.
6) Check the full style pattern again ones ready, Like Join seam, fabrication,
notches,
Internals, seam allowance and all parts are created.
7) Pattern maker should make some mock up for critical points to fit the sample
and consult with seniors if necessary.
D) Marker Making
1) Have to make correct model with all the pattern and correct fabrication.
2) Before start the marker, Pattern and Marker man has to check Fabrication with
fabric type and all pattern pieces are there to avoid any missing and mistake.

3) Marker man should collect all the fabric width information.

E) Sewing Pattern
1) Have to study buyer spec sheet clearly and sketch details attentively and follow
all of their sewing pattern guide line.
2) Have to print out all needed pattern and be ready for sewing.
3) The entire finish pattern should be plot finish pattern, should not with
allowance.
4) All the important position should be confirmed by seniors.
Beside this a pattern maker has to maintain below responsibilities:
As we know if a pattern maker makes a mistake it will bring great loss to concern
garments company. So garments owner should take care of pattern section and give
them good working environment with motivation. Its human nature that whenever
they will get more and then they will pay more attention to their duties.
1) To be energetic for the development of patterns regularly and no compromise
against product quality & measurement.
2) Have to find out quick solution against any problem arisen regarding patterns
and identify root causes if some lines fail to achieve hourly target and take prompt
corrective actions.
3) To be sincere to fulfill the pattern demand of buyers to improve the product
quality.
4) To keep-up communication through e-mail or other way with the concern
parties.
5) Motivate and give training to subordinates to enrich their stillness.

6) Communicate with Merchandiser, CAD, Cutting, Printing, Embroidery, QC and

Sewing floor for any functional requirement.
7) Hardly devoted to achieve the company's goal.
8) Promptly implement the instruction of higher management.
9) Should have sound knowledge regarding the utilization of equipment/machinery
in production floor to ensure the product quality during pattern making.
Note: All the pattern maker should follow this entire guide line perfectly without
fall to minimize the mistake. We should realize that our entire attempt will become
all in vain if the pattern maker not maintain the above instruction strictly and not
finished his task carefully. It will be better if there a cordial relation between
pattern maker and concern merchandiser to expedite above task.