How to: Change an inner tube

Got a puncture? Tyres soft and flat? That sounds like a puncture.
Heres how to remove and replace the inner tube that sits under
the tyre itself.
First though, check you havent just got a soft tyre by pumping them up.
We explain how in our Beginners Guide to Pumping Your Tyres article.

Total Womens Cycling would like to thank 2pure for supplying us with some
lovely Pedros tools.
If you get a puncture while out on your bike, its quicker and easier to just
replace the inner tube, rather than faff on trying to patch it up. From
experience, weve found its never a wise idea to wait for a puncture; its
best to practise the technique at home. Some tyre and tube combinations
can be quite tight, needing thumbs of steel, dont give up, persevere and
youll get there in the end.
Tools needed:

2 x tyre lever
1 x mini OR floor pump
1 x new inner tube
Removing wheel
1. If youve suffered a rear flat, shift your gears to the outermost gear at the
back and innermost at the front to make it easier to get the wheel off.

2. If youve got v-brakes release them before removing your wheel. This is not
something to worry about if you run disc brakes.

3.
Release quick-release skewer by pulling outward on the lever. Once
open, use your other hand to unscrew the nut so it clears the lips on
the fork. Releasing tension in the skewer helps drop the wheel
cleanly from the forks

4.

To remove front wheel, guide it straight down out of fork. For rear
wheels, pull rear derailleur back to keep chain clear of cogs. Guide
wheel both down and forward.
Accessing punctured inner tube

5.
With wheel separated from bike, deflate tyre. Remove dust cap and
lock ring. Unscrew and then press tip of Presta valve to ensure all air
is removed from the inner tube.
6. Use thumbs to push bead of tyre towards centre of rim. Loosening
the bead will make it easier to use tyre levers.

7.
Get tyre lever aligned with spoke. Scoop tyre lever under bead.
Once engaged, push down on lever to lift tyre over rim
8. With end of tyre lever under bead, affix lever to spoke.

9.
Scoop second tyre lever under loosened bead next to first.

10.
Once second lever is between the rim and loosened bead, use a
fluid movement to slide it all the way round to completely remove
bead from rim.
Removing punctured inner tube
11.

Remove valve of inner tube from valve hole.

12.
Pull inner tube completely out of tyre.

13.
Cast an eye over outside of tyre and use fingers to inspect inside for
cause of puncture. Alternatively, always stash a bit of cotton wool in
your jersey pocket, so you can run that around the inside it will
snag when it catches on the sharp item, instead of hurting your
finger.
Installing new inner tube
14.
Remove dust cap, lock ring and unscrew Presta valve tip on
new inner tube.

15.
Use pump to inflate inner tube so it holds its shape.

16.
Insert inner tube valve into valve hole and screw on lock ring. If
valve is not pointing straight it can lead to a puncture.
17.

Place the rest of inner tube inside tyre.

Re-installing tyre

18.
Start at valve, begin to push bead of tyre over lip of rim.
19.
Continue pushing bead over rim. This is easier with some
tyre/rim combinations than others. If your combination is tight, push
tyre bead into middle channel of rim to create some slack.

20.
Use thumbs to ease final section of bead over rim (this will need
strong thumbs and may involve swearing).
21.
Once bead is over rim, check both sides of tyre to ensure no
inner tube is poking out. If so, remove tyre and start from step 18.
Inflating

22.
Connect pump to inner tube valve. If struggling to connect, press
down on tyre to push valve fully through valve hole.

23.
Inflate inner tube to pressure noted on sidewall of tube.

24.
Once inflated, ensure lock nut is screwed right up to rim wall, Presta
valve tip is shut and dust cap is back on.
Re-installing wheel
25.
Ensure quick-release skewer is unwound and brakes are still
open.

26.
To re-install rear wheel, get chain clear by pulling back rear
derailleur. Put smallest cog on wheel in between top and bottom of
chain. Guide wheel back and up into dropouts, ensuring disc brakes
are aligned if you use them. For front, guide wheel up into the
dropouts.
27.
Hold quick release lever open, opposite its final closed resting
place.
28.
Use other hand to tighten nut, stop when you can feel
resistance on quick release lever.

29.
Close quick release lever.
30.

Remember to re-connect your brakes.

Go forth and repair!

How did we do?
As this is the first in our How to series, were keen to get your feedback. In
the comments section below wed love to here how you got on following
this guide.
Jargon Buster
Demystifying the technical vocab of the cycling world.
Inner tube: Separate inflatable tube that goes inside your tyre.
Presta valve: Type of valve on inner tube. A thin valve, with screw-in tip,
means high pressures can be achieved and maintained.
Schraeder valve: Type of valve on inner tube, also the same as found on
cars. A wide valve, predominately reserved for mountain biking, with pin
in the centre to release air.
Quick-release wheels: A mechanism that allows you to remove wheels
without the need for tools. A skewer runs through the axle, with a lever
one end and nut the other.

Spokes: Thin poles or blades on your wheels that connect the rim to the
hub.
Spoke nipples: Special nuts usually found connecting the spoke to the
rim. It helps to adjust the tension of the spoke.
Lock ring: A ring that screws on the threads of the inner tube valve. Once
the valve has been inserted through the rim, the lock ring holds valve in
place, preventing movement.
Rear derailleur: A mechanism that moves the chain between sprockets
to give a range of gears.
Sprockets: Toothed discs that the chain run on to drive the rear wheel.
Bead: Metal or Kevlar wire found in tyre. Holds tyre to the rim.
V-brakes: A brake that acts on the rim. V-brakes have two nearly vertical
arms that mount on pivots on the frame and are pulled together with a
brake cable across the top.
Rim: Outer part of the wheel, where the tyre mounts.
a