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I enjoy relaxing on a sofa and in my bed, and so it may come as no surprise that I
would wish to combine the two. After searching Ikea and several other shops, I found
the average price for a "tri-fold" futon was in the region of 120GBP ($150). I found this
pretty steep for what is basically some planks of pine and a mattress.
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Let me make this clear before I begin:This Instructable is only howto build the
frame. I have not yet worked out how I will make the mattress or if I will attempt to
buy one, but in the instructables spirit if anyone has any suggestions, suggest away.
This futon folds in three sections to givea comfortably wide (4ft) and long (6ft-ish)
bedthat could sleep two (if proximity is not an issue!). When it is folded up it forms
a sofathat is close to the ground and has an open angle (about 100 degrees) which I
find very comfortable to sit on.
I am not a carpenter, crafstman or a great DIY-er, I didn't even take wood tech in
school, so this instructable is very accessable. So get up off your computer and turn
that empty space in your bedroomor living room into a versatile piece of furniture! If I
can do it, so can you!
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This is the list of materials and tools I used during the project. The wood I used was
pine as it is cheap, relatively strong yet a little springy to make the futon a bit more
comfortable. The type of wood you use is up to you but in my opinion, pine works
best. My local hardware store cut the planks for me at no extra cost, but depending on
where you go they may charge 10% extra:this is worth it.
Wood:
Also some kind of stain, oil or wax to protect it and make it look good.
46 x 40mmscrews(4mmhead)
4 x 6mmbolts (6mmis the diameter: length needs to be no less than45mm, 50mmis
ideal)
4 x 6mmwingnuts(or regular nuts, but wingnuts are easier to use in assembly and
disassembly)
Tools:
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Tools:
Pencil
Ruler (graduated in millimetres)
Set Square(or similar)
Protractor
Electric Screwdriver/Drill
2.5mmdrill bit
6.5mmdrill bit
Manual Screwdriver
Saw
Medium Grade Sandpaper
Rasp or planer (a rasp is a bit like reusable, very coarse sandpaper, but a planer would
work just as well)
Optional
- DO NOT work when you are tired or have drunk alcohol: you will make mistakes
and you could injure yourself
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For this step you will need therasp or planer, and the glasspaper. You will be working
on the 12000mmx 95mmplanks.
2. Glasspaper the plank to smooth the edges and surfaces, paying particular attention
to the ends.
(The glasspapering is easier if you wrap the glasspaper around a small block of wood. I
cut a piece of scrapI had lying around.)
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***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should
look like***
The smallest planks (690mmx 70mm) need to have a small section cut out of one end,
the other end tapered slightly and one drill hole.
4. Measure37mmalong this line (starting from the edge) and mark it.
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5. Fromthis point measure an angle of95 degrees towards the end of the plank. Rule a
line.
6. Shade in the section in the 95 degree angle and the other side of the 7 degree angle.
This is the bit to be cut out (main picture).
2. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square.
3. Halfway in (35mm) mark the drill hole.
1. At the end with the drill hole, measure20mmdown and 20mmacross the top.
Draw a line.
2. This is the triangle to be cut out.
3. Repeat on other side.
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***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should
look like***
The medium small planks need on end tapered and a small triangle taken off the other
end. They also need a drill hole at each end.
***Look at step 7 before doing the measuring to get an idea of what they should
look like***
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The long planks need one drill hole and one triangle cut out at one end.
Drill hole
1. Measure165mmdownfrom one end and mark it.
2. At this mark draw aperpendicular lineacross the wood using the set square.
3. Measure15mmin and mark the drill hole.
Triangle
1. On the opposite side to the drill hole, measure35mm downand mark it.
2. Then measure35mmacross the topand mark it.
3. Rule a line. This is the triangle to be cut out.
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1. Cut and Drill where you have marked on the planks. (6mmdrill bit)
2. On the tapered ends, triangles and cut outs smooth and sand roughly (not too much
as some measuring is yet to be done).
This is a good time to test the foldingmechanism of your futon. It should be fairly
obvious where the hinges attach and so forth but incase it isn't...
Now we need to add some screw guide holes on the planks. These will make sure the
screws go in straight ensuring the best fit and so the wood doesn't crack. This is the
most tedious part of the build and also one of the most important. This is a dangerous
combination soconcentrate. It should not take much longer than 30 minutes.
ACCURACY IS KEY
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- 1 plank is unique
The "4" planks (same as last time only they are 170mmdown)
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The different planks need to be measured differently. On the four shorter ones there
should be 4 pairs of holes (8) and on the two longer ones there should be 3 pairs of
holes and one single hole (7). They all need to be measured along thetop edge(see
step 7: the top edges are the edges farthest up on the picture).
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step 7: the top edges are the edges farthest up on the picture).
1. Measure85mmin from the tapered end along the top edge and mark it.(85mm
from the original end of the plank: in retrospect this would have been easier before
tapering the end).
2. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it.
1. Measure145mmfrom the end with one corner cut off along the top edge and mark
it.
2. Measure40mmfrom this mark and mark it.
9. Use this plank as a template for the second plank (see picture).
1. Measure30mmin from the flat end along the top edge and mark it. (This is the
single hole).
Measure these twice to avoid errors. It will save you time, effort and money in the
long run.
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Using the 2.5mmdrill bit, carefully drill on the marks as close to vertical as possible.
On the large planks, the holes should go all the way through the planks.
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On the large planks, the holes should go all the way through the planks.
On the smaller planks, the holes only need to extend about 20mmin (doesn't have to
be exact).
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After drilling the screw holes we can finish the small planks. The top edge (the one
with the holes) should only be lightly sanded as it needs to sit flush with the large
planks. I gave the bottomedge a strong bevel.
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Now comes the interesting part. The key to the assembly is preparation. Firstly, screw
all of the screws through the long planks so that the ends are just poking out the
bottom. This will make lining up the planks on the smaller planks infinitely easier.
The 4 long planks measured earlier attach to the medium short planks (700mmx
70mm) the 7 planks attach to the other planks (the 770mmx 70mmone and the
690mmx 70mmone) and the single holed plank goes on the 770mmx 70mmone). It
should be fairly obvious but it is important to get themin the right place so the futon
folds properly.
Screw the planks in place to end up with the three sections of the futon. Before
finishing the futon, check thateverythingworks. Assemble the futon using the wing
nuts and bolts and test it. Everything should work smoothly but if not, youmay need
to make some adjustments.
(EDIT) I have added an extra diagram which should help you see what I mean.
Disassemble the futon into its three parts. Give the whole thing a good sanding to get
rid of sharp edges and to prepare it for treating. Then treat the futon with what you
like. I used 3 coats of teak oil which gives it a lovely colour and smell and protects it.
However you could use wax or even stain, whatever works. Reassemble and you have
a fully functional folding futon frame.
From <http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Fold-out-SofaFutonBed-Frame/?ALLSTEPS>
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