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Reclaimers
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www.washington.edu/uwpress
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pages cm
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5. Northwest, PacificBiography.
Contents
Prologue: The Low Groundvii
Part I. A Red-Lettered Sign
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1 Homeland5
2 Willkommen16
3 Revisit28
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4 Remediation41
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5 Talk Talk51
Part II. Face-to-Face
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7 Tending73
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8 Without an Invite83
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10 What Now?111
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Prologue
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rie, and I own in Stehekin, a very small mountain town, divides cleanly
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in two: the high ground where we live now, atop an ancient moraine, and
the low ground, where we lived years ago. In many ways, the halves are
the same. Same trees. Same gravel road perimeter. Same mossy rocks.
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lumber, silty and splintered, discarded skis, rock rubble, and for a time,
an unclaimed motorcycle helmet perched on a stump. No dwellings. Not
anymore. One lone structure, a ramshackle garage half-sided and rat-infested, remains at the far end of the plat. We still use it for storage, so to
retrieve our winter boots or a blow-up boat or a coffee can of lag screws,
we must head down. But for a long time, I avoided the chore at all costs:
procrastinating, excuse-making, dreading the sight of ground, supposedly our own, flushed, scoured, trashed, abandoned.
Truth is, the low ground was never much to brag about. When Lauries mother first saw the place, she wept. For good reason. A rusted
off-kilter swing set lay in the yard alongside hardened bags of mortar,
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Laurie and I had worked for years, by then, on backcountry trail crews
for the National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service, and Laurie still
worked for the Park Service maintaining a historic apple orchard in the
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to high ground, safely away from the danger of floods, but in the meantime we tore out moldy carpet and started anew: plumbing, insulating,
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the one that had washed to rubble in that November flood, then gone to
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We dug in cedar posts and spent $300a small fortune at the time
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on concrete mesh, strung it eight feet high to keep the deer and bear out,
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and added compost and minerals to the rocky soil. One day when I was
preparing to plant potatoes, the neighbors cat, Daisy, nudged up beside
me, reared up on her hind paws, and began to dig full bore. With no idea
what the purpose was, she threw herself at the task. Im telling you: she
was one of us, this cat.
That was seventeen years ago now, but it seems so much longer.
Floods ripped through the low ground not once but three times, leaving firewood scattered, cedar posts askew. Soil from the garden washed
downvalley to fertilize brambles that finger now through misshapen rolls
of mesh. We left the house empty, and we skedaddled. Daisy moved with
us, trailing us to high ground with the neighbors blessing, claiming us
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with a passion, I cant face it. Sometimes I need to get the hell out.
What happened on the low groundwhat we accomplished, what we
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thought the word had only to do with dams. The Bureau of Reclamation.
Founded in 1902, tasked with reclaiming the arid West, making the desert
bloom, building dams, dams, dams. By the late 1980s, when I landed in
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men with dress shirts stretched tight over their bellies, slide rules in their
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pockets, and god on their side. John McPhees Encounters with the Arch-
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that matter, the low ground?) And who decides? Judgments cycle. Fire
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is bad, fire is good. Predators are bad, predators are good. And with the
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judgments, so go our actions: Put out fires, start prescribed fires. Eliminate predators, reintroduce predators. Like Sisyphus on a hamster wheel.
More to the point, arent at least two of those definitions at odds with one
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use?
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Still, what was most beguiling about the word was also what appealed
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to me. At some point in our recent history, and with good reason, a lot
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One gray Decemberafter yet another flood and the deaths of two close
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ing on. Over the years, the trees had been stunted by lack of sunlight,
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picture. Nothing was going well for these trees until Laurie showed up.
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Never mind that at home she does exactly the same kind of work or that,
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except for this job, shed be laid off for the season and wed be skiing, her
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favorite pastime. She didnt need the money. She wanted to work on the
trees because they needed it, but also because she wanted to honor the
fact that someone worked like hell to plant them. You might think this
had to do with what happened on our low ground, but it had more to do
with her nature, and maybe human nature: she wanted to reclaim those
trees.
Before she began, Laurie asked permission to burn as she went along.
This is how she disposes of pruned limbs back home, and the warmth,
in December, would be welcome. No way, the managers said. Theres a
midden. Rats? Laurie asked. No, no. An archaeological midden, a mound
of obsidian chips several feet deep, the shavings from Indian tool makers,
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the Wintu, who lived at that spot along Clear Creek and in the surrounding Trinity Mountains, for twelve hundred years. Fire would melt the
chips and destroy evidence of how they lived and worked. Rare evidence.
Okay, then.
To be clear, Whiskeytown is not mainly about apple trees. Like most
federally designated recreation areas, its a reservoir, this one created in
the early 1960s by an earthen dam. President Kennedy famously attended
the dedication. Each morning after I dropped Laurie off to prune, watching her start a small chainsaw to cut through dormant vines, I stopped
beside the human-made lake and gazed at the hills, lush and green even
in December. Every single time I did, I saw other people standing on the
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shore looking out: young and old, well-dressed and shabby, a mother and
daughter, a man in a business suit, all of them on their way from somewhere to somewhere else. They stood stone-still and stared, taking solace
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from the uncluttered view, the human-free landscape, all that water. The
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reclaimed lake was lovely, sure, but I was still troubled. Park brochures
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described how, on clear summer days, you could look down from a kayak
and see the Old West storefronts of Main Street shimmering under the
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Back home in Stehekin, a river management plan had been in the works
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not to listen to the angry voices, only to the sounds underneath: the hum
of laptop fans kicking on, the splash of wind-driven waves on the lake,
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tension stretches through life in our idyllic little valley. Outsiders some-
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week?) How petty our battles seem, how transparently ideological. (Gov-
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ernment is good! Government is bad!) From the inside, the struggles feel
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murkierwe own property, yes, we work for the Park Service, yesand
the strain feels visceral.
Who knows? I thought. The angry people might be right. The river
management plan offered four alternatives that ranged from no action to
degree variations on a theme: removal of structures and facilities from
the channel migration zone. I read them several times, and I could not for
the life of me make sense of them. I did know this much: A whole lot of
private property in the valley, including our low ground, lay smack in the
middle of the so-called channel migration zone, and the river was poised
to reclaim it.
At the meeting, one man stood to say this:
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Remember this is Mother Nature. She might seem beautiful and docile, but really shes a bitch. You have to put her in her place, show her
whos boss.
Chastise, he said, or maybe: Harness.
At Whiskeytown, while Laurie pruned, I set off in search of the story of
who lived there before the dam and where they went. Not so much what. I
could pretty much guess the fate of the fish and the forest, and while I did
want to know about that, my sympathy right then lay mostly with the settlers in the drowned town and the Native people, the Wintu, before them.
A visitor center overlooked the placid lake, oil-dark on the surface.
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Around the shore low clouds fingered like smoke through dense green
foliage toward a ridge brined with early wet snow. Inside, the place
seemed much like a Park Service visitor center anywhere. Kids books
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They moved on, she said. They headed for the hills.
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Three kiosk exhibits described the dams construction and the local
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large mammal populations: deer, bear, cougar. The place felt like a kind
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of subsidized apology. But for what? I read descriptions of the dam con-
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struction, then reread them more closely. The idea was ambitious as
hellto dam the Trinity River, which flows west, and reverse the flow into
the Sacramento River drainage to the eastand the details of construction were staggering: eight miles of tunnels 17.5 feet in diameter, 480,000
cubic yards of dirt to be excavated and relocated. The end result was piddling. Two powerhouses on the Whiskeytown reservoir generate a combined 300 megawatts today. (This was, Id learn, peanuts by hydropower
standards in the Pacific Northwest. None of the dams on the Columbia
River generates less than a thousand megawatts.) And the reservoir provides irrigation, about 5,000 acres worth. For this payoff, theyd reverse
a river, flood a town, drown countless archaeological sites? I doubted it.
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On Saturday, Lauries day off, we met old friends and took a long walk
beside the Sacramento River. The week had been rainy, but now the temperature registered balmy, shirt-sleeve warm. Dry yellow grass glistened
in thin winter sun.
But whats it really for? I asked.
Our friend shrugged.
Whiskeytown? That dams for recreation.
Thats it. Recreation?
Of course, he said. Who wouldnt want a lake in a valley thats over
100 degrees three months of the year?
I was stunned. Id convinced myself that people who reclaim things
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always have some decent purpose in mind, but thats the problem: the
definition of a decent purpose is shifty. In a book about the national recreation area, Id highlighted a quote from President Kennedy at the 1963
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How great was the danger, he said, that this great natural inheri-
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I began a list of what gets reclaimed. Rivers. Swamps. Mines. Ball play-
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nail in. That seemed the argument against taking out the dams: that the
hole would still be there, it would cost too much money, and maybe the
entire deal would be for show. Over the next several months, Id return
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over and over to the proverbial hole in the tree. So many ideologies hinge
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on the myth of a clean slate, the idea theres some undamaged state to
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preserve or restore. All better now! There isnt one. But heres the thing:
the fact that there isnt one is no excuse. Our teacher, after all, wasnt
telling us never to say sorry, only that we shouldnt use the power of apol-
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When I started telling friends about my interest in reclamation, everyone had a story. Did I know about High Line Park in New York City on
a reclaimed elevated freight rail? How about Seattles plan to reclaim
wasted heat from data centers, the so-called Cloud, to power nearby
neighborhoods? Reclaiming appeared everywhere, out of nowhere; it
seemed to be, in some ways, the backdrop of our time. Nearly every
major American city has a re-store where would-be remodelers can buy
lumber and hardware salvaged from demolished buildings. Most watersheds have seen restoration, and somethe Hudson, the Cuyahoga
have been nothing short of miraculous. Even small-scale dam removal,
it turns out, was nothing new. The nonprofit river advocacy group
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American Rivers estimates that in the past century 925 dams have been
removed from rivers.
Then there were Native Americans. If reclamationat least the way
it interested mehad to do with land and water, the original inhabitants
were the ones with the most at stake. For the past fifty years, Id learn,
all across the country Indian tribes have been taking back whats been
stolen from them: the Taos Pueblo in New Mexico, the Menominee in Wisconsin, the Passamaquoddy in Maine, the Colville in Washington. Even
the Wintu, it turned out, did not all head for the hills as the volunteer
ranger claimed, but still live and work and make headlines in North Central California, where they oppose raising Shasta Dam and have a plan to
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So I did. Not long after our visit to Whiskeytown, I took a long solo trip
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my own geography and finances. Over three years, Id yo-yo up and down
the west edge of the continent on either side of the long strip of moun-
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alongside rivers that have, in literal ways, sustained methe Feather, the
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of Los Angeles to where Ive landed in the North Cascades. Id walk over
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sand dunes past lime-green mesquite and follow game trails among dormant oaks, watch steelhead through glass and befriend a single red fox.
Id talk to elders and activists, bureaucrats and lawyers and small-town
mechanics. Id tell everyone my three-part theory of reclaiming, and if
their eyes occasionally glazed over at taking back and making right
weary perhaps of the eternal moral tug-of-warby the time I got to making useful, they had some things to say. And I tried to listen.
By chance and later with intention, I found myself immersed in the
sagas of two small California tribes with big goals: the Timbisha Shoshone, who reclaimed their ancestral land in Furnace Creek in the center
of Death Valley National Park more than a decade ago, and the MounAna Maria Spagna
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impressed me. I admired their courage, their fortitude, their unwavering faith. But like the Catholic faith of my childhood, their core beliefs
lacked a deep connection with the earth: land, air, water, non-humans.
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in the woods and still two decades later spend all our best time together
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the post office centers on how many trumpeter swans have returned to the
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lake. (Thirty-seven one day, forty-three the next; everyone keeps count.) I
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curiosity, and joked half-earnestly that I mostly needed to get away from
hometo think about any place else, to write about any place elsebut
underneath, always, lay something more. I wanted to explore that connection. I wanted to tell stories about people who try, in plain and practical ways, to take nature back, make it right, and make it useful. Even
when ideas about how to do so shift infuriatingly.
Which brought me back to dams. I studied the history of dams and
toured dams that are being refitted to make them more right, more useful,
and finally settled in to learn the long saga of a major dam, the Condit
dam on the White Salmon River, a tributary of the Columbia, coming
down. What seemed at first the most straightforward storyexplosives
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In the end, there was one thing Laurie and I should have known about
Whiskeytown but did not: theres poison oak everywhere. Those dormant
vines shed been sawing through? Yep. A month after our return, Laurie
would require emergency room care and prednisone shots. Its a damned
good thing, wed agree, that she hadnt been allowed to burn. Meanwhile,
wed head home before Christmas, trade rain for snow, manzanita for
Oregon grape, live oak for Douglas fir. Wed drive over the passes, show
up at the funeral of yet another friend, and return to home where the river
ran low. Id walk a trail from the high ground to the low to pull skis out
of the garage, where they hung from hooks we built in those early heady
days, wedged behind a stovepipe that heated us when the garage doubled
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as a pool hall, and a fan that cooled us, and a shaggy shred of carpet
Daisy used to climb to get above the fray. So much work, she seemed to
think, what are you doing it for? The cat knew what we didnt. Now Daisy
is gone, too. We hacked her grave in the frozen ground. The high ground,
not the low.
The temptation is always there, isnt it? To give up, to give in. Admit
that what we do, even with the very best intentions, is often futile and
sometimes worse than that.
Until the need to make things right arises anew.
Our landless summer neighbors emailed in spring. They wanted to
return to Stehekin for a visit and needed a place to camp, and our deserted
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low ground was the obvious choice. So Laurie and I started all over again:
cleaning, watering, planting. We rigged up an outhouse with plywood
scraps, a tarp, and an old pair of skis. We set up a campfire ring and set
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out some garbage cans. Our former neighbors, now neighbors again, set
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up a camper and a bug tent. We arrived for dinner with garden greens in
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paper towels and cut flowers in beer cans as afternoon sun backlit the
berry brambles. The low ground, for the first time in a decade, felt right.
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