Booklet Coss1506 PDF

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COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Marketing
The latest
global trends
in a nutshell
Markets
Trouble free
exporting to
the USA
Ingredients
Natural
blend with a
whitening effect
Events
In-Cosmetics review:
Selection of
major highlights
VIP of the Month
Esther Belser, Mibelle,

presents a novel anti-hair
loss active produced
with a novel sustainable
biotechnology
Focus: Hair care
6 / 2 015
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Revealing the
Power of Beautiful Hair
DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.
P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel
Switzerland
Phone: +41 61 815 7777
Fax: +41 61 815 7860
Email: info.pc-emea@dsm.com
www.dsm.com/personal-care
At DSM we believe that nothing complements a persons appearance better than

beautiful hair and when you look good, you really feel good.
With our deep global understanding of peoples ever changing hair beauty
aspirations, our passion for beauty trends and bright hair science, we craft tailored
polymer designs and actives that let people everywhere discover the power of truly
beautiful hair through ultimate care and styling every day.
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EDITORIAL
The granny
trend + more
The granny trend, the phenomenon where women of
all ages colour their hair in shades of silver and grey,
seems to be more than just media hype. This very surprising insight is underpinned by the fact that hair
colourant sales within the brights and silver shade
groups are up 46% and 14% respectively in 2014.
This was according to Kline PRO, a product-level
database published quarterly by the global market research and consulting firm, Kline Group. New brands
and product trends tend to appear first in the independent salons, a tendency that is generally extremely hard to keep track of. Klines panel in the US currently encompasses 1,000 independent salons and
8,500 chain salons, with the intention of increasing
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the former to 3,000 independent salons in order to

be representative of the total U.S. professional salon
industry.
Another trend validated by this data set is co-washing.
Co-washing is the practice of cleansing ones hair
with conditioner instead of shampoo. The clarifying
segment of conditioners has been growing exponentially. While still nascent and accounting for less than
1% of total conditioner sales in 2014, the segment
posts the highest growth of all conditioner types in independent salons. Ouidads Curl Co-Wash is among
the leading items in the segment.
Meanwhile, hair oils is an area that is slowly losing
steam in the US, with sales down 6% in chains and
5% in independent salons in 2014. Although the segment, which was pioneered by Moroccanoil, has
reached maturity, some items still show rapid sales
growth in 2014, including Bumble and Bumble Hairdressers Invisible Oil.
In contrast, oils in Europe still enjoy considerable popularity as, according to Mintel* data from 2014,
women are prepared to spend time and money on
their hair, with the most exclusive products being
treatments and masks. In this respect hair oils proved
more popular than the more established serums due to

the fact that oils combine care and fragrance. One interesting example is June Olive Water Essence. This olive oil
spray with vegetable collagen for protein care claims to instantly infuse hair with a veil of shine, while at the same
time repairing split ends and taming fly-aways and frizz.
For those who want to tame their hair, Redken has
launched an interesting new format with its Frizz Dismiss
FPF 10 Fly-Away Fix Finishing Sheets for All Hair Types.
The concept involves using sheets to eliminate fly-away
hair and simultaneously enhance control and shine.
These sheets are infused with lavender oil, a humidity
resisting complex, Aquatorial hydrophilic complex and
pracaxi oil.
Another interesting concept is the idea of using a
pre-shampoo treatment such as Syoss Anti-Dandruff
Platinum Control 100 Extreme Intensive Pre-Shampoo
Treatment, which apparently exfoliates the scalp to lift
dandruff before shampooing.
If you are looking for new ingredients or formulations for
new product concepts, dont miss the articles by authors
from Mibelle, Dow Corning, Ashland, Kao and Mintel in
our hair care focus from page 10 to 18 as well as our InCosmetics review on page 32ff.
*Data from a presentation on Beauty trends around the world held by Vivienne Rudd
from Mintel at the conference organised by SEPAWAs group for applied cosmetics
Sources: www.klinegroup.com, www.mintel.com
Sincerely yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on:
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
COSSMA 6 I 2015
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Contents
14 I A closer look
at the latest global
hair care trends
Editorial
NEWS
Markets + Profiles
FOCUS
10
Hair care
a Esther Belser, Mibelle Group Biochemistry:
Anti-ageing hair care
Preventing hair loss + ensuring fuller hair
12
Sylvain Mass, Dow Corning Europe:

Hair care trends
Silicones shaping innovative formulations
14
Linda Foltis, Ashland Specialty Ingredients:

Ingredients Signature hair texture solutions
16
Oliver Bernd, Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut:

Co-operation between KAO and HAWK
creates new packaging for salon hair care
18
Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel:

International launches
20
MARKETING
a Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics:
In-Cosmetics Marketing Trends Presentations 2015
Multi-facetted global trends in a nutshell
32 I In-Cosmetics
28
2015: Solutions with

a lot of potential
31
a Melanie Cummings, Michael Pfeiffer,

Pfeiffer Consulting: US regulations for cosmetic
products Trouble free exporting to the USA
Star of the Month: Customised organic shampoo
PRODUCTION
32
a 25th anniversary of In-Cosmetics

Selected launches at a glance
40
Florence Trombini, BASF Beauty Care Solutions:

Anti-ageing active ingredients for skin rejuvenation
42
a Dr. Alexander Thiemann, Sabrina Grne,

Manuela Salmina-Petersen and
Dr. Jan Jnichen, Dr. Straetmans:
44
Containers and more
SERVICES
6
48
50
51
52
56
57
57
58
58
Download List
Essential Oils: Price List
Formulations: Sun Care
Events Diary
Suppliers Guide
International B2B Exchange
Advertisers Index
Masthead Page
Preview
Trend statement by Dr. Jeni Thomas,
Procter & Gamble, Switzerland
42 I Whitening
blend based on
rice bran and
white mulberry
44 I The most
creative packaging
recently launched
Whitening An effective and natural blend
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Anna_Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers

www.cossma.com/download
COSSMA Download-Tip in June
India: A closer look at growth opportunities
... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics

is special.
Neha Nayak from Mintels

Indian subsidiary takes a closer look at the current characteristics of the Indian personal care markets, pointing at
the various growth opportunities in the field of whitening,
sun care and mens skin care,
as well as product formats.
COSSMA subscribers can
download further background
information.
photo: Vikacity, Shutterstock.com
Click through our Web TV clips:

www.cossma.com/tv
The Indian skin care market

is expected to double by 2018
Top-Downloads for June

Product Info:
describes the future trends her agency has identified
for cosmetics.
ProRenew Complex
(CLR)
Literature References:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
Improving Eye Contour

(Lipotec)
Video:
Laser Coding & Inkjet
Technology (Bluhm)
Formulation:
Hair Conditioner Nature Meets
Performance (BASF)
... informs about the development of the German market
for personal care in 2014.
Downloads
talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional

products
COSSMA 6I 2015
Additional information at
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for June:
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA

web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
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Add more life to shampoo with Lamesoft Care

Our micronized lipids reduce hair breakage and attract envious looks
and not just in America. Lamesoft Care another Care Creations
product inspired by life.
carecreations.basf.com
Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Beiersdorf:
Jesper Andersen
Brlind:
Nicolas Lindner
People
Beiersdorf I Jesper Andersen, 45, has been appointed to
the Executive Board. He has held
several management positions at
Colgate-Palmolive worldwide
since 1994. He will gradually
take over responsibility for the
Finance Division from Ulrich
Schmidt, 62, who will retire at the
end of the Annual General Meeting in March 2016 having worked
at Beiersdorf for over 30 years.
www.beiersdorf.com
Brlind I In order to ensure

that Brlind remains a family-run
business in the next generation,
in July 2015 Nicolas Lindner will
join Brlinds management
Cosmetics Europe:
John Chave
German Fragrance
Foundation:
Jean-Claude Ellena
which, up until now, has been

handled by his father and sole
managing owner Michael Lindner. Gunter Tho, who is responsible for sales, supports the management as an authorized representative. Nicolas Lindner joined
the company in April 2013 and
has been Head of Marketing
since May 2014. As managing director he will also be responsible
for sales, as well as R&D. International sales, finance, controlling,
production, IT, and recruitment
will remain in the hands of
Michael Lindner.
NCD Ingredients:
Horst Waltenberger
metics Europe and he will officially start in July. Previously, he

was Secretary General of the
PGEU, the European association
representing pharmacists and
pharmacy owners.
www.cosmeticseurope.eu
German Fragrance
Foundation I As part of the
23rd German perfume awards
Jean-Claude Ellena, the French
perfumer and author, who works
for Herms, received a lifetime
achievement award.
www.fragrance-foundation.de
www.boerlind.com
Cosmetics Europe I John

Chave has been appointed as
the new Director-General of Cos-
NCD Ingredients I Horst

Waltenberger, Director of Corporate Development and a partner
at NCD Ingredients, died in April
SEPAWA: Astrid Wulfinghoff (left) and

Angela Kleiner
2015 after a short, severe illness.

Previously he was MD for Impag
Germany, Poland and France
from 1994 to 2013 and before
that he worked for Rewo, (today
Evonik) and later with Kao. He
committed himself over 8 years
to the position of voluntary committee member of SEPAWA.
SEPAWA Group for Applied Cosmetics (FAK) I
Angela Kleiner from Croda/
Sederma and Astrid Wulfinghoff
from Bayer Material Science
are the new 1st and 2nd chairwomen after Dr. Vera Maienschein from Impag and Andrea
Weber from Babor stepped
down from the board.
www.sepawa.com
ADVERTISEMENT
Merck presents high-quality ingredients

RonaCare SereneShield
active ingredient to provide balance to skin.
RonaCare SereneShield is Mercks innovation for dermocosmetics
care. It works with a 3R-Effect: Rebalance of skin microflora,
Regulation of sebum production and Reduction of inflammation.
Even in adults, overactive sebaceous glands can lead to acne and
cause skin to appear as if it is not properly cared for, has large pores
and is uneven.
RonaCare SereneShield strengthens the skins defense system and
helps prevent impure skin and skin redness. The result is a refined,
healthy appearance of the skin.
Dr. Michael Heckmeier, Head of Business Unit Performance

Materials, Pigments & Functional Materials illustrates what does
Merck as a supplier for cosmetic ingredients stand for.
Mr. Heckmeier explains the most important Merck launches during
In-cosmetics 2015 and describes how Merck support its customers
to meet the future trends. He makes clear what Merck differentiates
from competitors and how customers can benefit.
To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at
www.cossma.com/merck
Further information: www.merck4cosmetics.com
Ready to open up new possibilities for your markets?
To find out more, please write to us at
cosmeticsexperts@merckgroup.com
Sunny orange expands high-quality product range

for attractive cosmetics
A new effect pigment in the Merck portfolio is opening up new opportunities for high quality, attractive cosmetics and is also easy to use.
With its intensive orange, metallic luster and good hiding power,
Colorona Tangerine Orange brings lipsticks and lip glosses, nail polishes, eye shadows and many more products to the sunny side of life.
Based on natural mica, it also imparts a delicate tanning effect to face
and body care products for a radiant complexion. Colorona
Tangerine Orange can be easily incorporated into various cosmetic
formulations.
Suprima: quality brand for high-quality pigments
With a wealth of product-specific data, regulatory information and certificates in a compact form, the SUPRIMA dossier offers customers
optimal support in the use of Merck pigments and contains data that
have not been previously disclosed to customers.
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MARKETS + PROFILES
30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH

in October
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH I The 30th edition of
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH will be held at the International Trade
Fair in Munich on October 17 and 18 one week earlier than in
previous years. The exhibitor list of the most important European
beauty trade show in the autumn, which last year featured more
than 880 companies and brands with their latest developments,
will be online from the end of May.
The Jubilee Edition will host a podology conference featuring
the diabetic foot syndrome for the first time. In cooperation with
the regional association, ZFD from Bavaria, it will be accepted as
certified educational training. Also new is the anti-ageing conference. In addition to the traditional workshops on the topics of
business, style, wellness, and nail active this time the workshops
will include alternative practitioning as well as natural cosmetics,
cosmetology and training for students.
NEWS
8,000 visitors in Leipzig

BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG I The 5th anniversary edition
was again attended by more than 8,000 visitors. 120 individuals
participated in the 8 workshops of the educational programme.
The podology conference had more than 200 participants and
the cosmetology conference almost 80. For the first time, the
regional chambers of pharmacists accepted these two conferences as certified professional training.
COSSMA
editor Angelika
Meiss hosted
the cosmetology conference for the
5th time
photos: Pauline Fabry
Please note, admission to the exhibition is free of charge for foreign visitors:
www.beauty-fairs.com/muenchen
Lots to explore
at this years
Jubilee Edition
For a second time this year, BEAUTY FORUM connect, the online
networking tool at www.connect.beauty-forum.com will offer the
opportunity to find potential business partners and get in touch
with them at the click of a button. Once you have presented your
company profile with videos, photos and a brief description of your
brands and services, the database via the MyMatch facility will
help you find the relevant details of potential business partners. In a dedicated
Matching Area at the show you will then
be able to meet these potential partners live.
For exhibitors at this years BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015, the benefits of BEAUTY FORUM
connect are free of charge: www.connect.beauty-forum.com
OxyForce Cellular Active gives your skin the oxygen it needs to look its best.
Your skin needs oxygen to stay healthy. Thats why we developed
OxyForce Cellular Active. OxyForce is specially designed to
deliver nourishing molecular oxygen to the epidermal layers to
support collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkle
depth and smooth out blemishes. Add a blast of oxygen to your
skin care product formulation, its the perfect compliment to
energize your claims. Contact us or visit our website to see our
in vivo study or to obtain a sample.
tell me more
airproducts.com/oxyforce
2015 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
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FOCUS: HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS
Anti-ageing hair care
Preventing hair loss +

ensuring fuller hair
photos: Mibelle
Mibelle Biochemistry has developed RootBioTec HO, a novel

anti-hair loss active, which is based on the herb basil and
produced with a novel sustainable biotechnology. It tackles
the problem of hair loss at the roots, therefore stimulating
the proliferating cells in the hair bulb in order to boost hair
regrowth and, at the same time, inhibit the hair loss enzyme
5 reductase II. Preventing hair loss in men and women helps
users to regain fuller and denser hair.
New active ingredient reduces hair loss

and helps increase hair density
s consumers continue to strive

towards being healthy and
maintaining good looks as they
age, they do not only focus on skin care
but also on anti-ageing hair care. Ageing of the hair comprises different aspects: thinning of hair, hair loss, dullness, colour fading and greying are all
part of this process. While grey hair has
gained acceptance, thinning hair will
always be perceived as negative and,
therefore, hair care products with antihair loss claims are of growing interest
to everyone.
Many of these hair loss problems

are temporary, although there is another type of hair loss that is less dramatic and less visible but can be incredibly distressing. This involves the
hair thinning gradually, often over the
course of several decades. It can start
at any age, it is progressive and it is
hereditary. This phenomenon, known
as androgenic alopecia, is related to
male hormones, but it is not caused by
excessive testosterone. It is a genetic
predisposition that causes hair follicles to become more sensitive to this
hormone. The enzyme 5 reductase
converts the male sex hormone testosterone into the active form dihydrotestosterone (DHT). This hormone
causes the hair follicles to produce
thinner and smaller hair, up to the
point that the hairs stop*.
Women, too, suffer from

androgenic alopecia
Men are considerably more affected
by hair loss (statistics suggest up to
70% of men experience hair loss). But it
is not only men. Women can also suffer
from androgenic alopecia. Approximately 3040% of women experience
hair loss, although androgens are
typically present in much smaller
amounts. In contrast to men, hair loss
in women occurs less in the area of the
receding hairline or tonsure, but instead appears on the top side of the
head and through the spotty formation
of gaps or diffuse hair loss.
A novel technology
to produce basil extract
For the manufacture of the active
ingredient RootBioTec HO, Mibelle
Hair loss due to manifold

causes
Hair loss can occur for a variety of
reasons, such as infections, thyroid
and hormonal imbalances, nutritional
deficiencies, stress, trauma, drugs, or it
may occur as the result of autoimmune
phenomena.
10
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Fig. 1: Thanks to a new technology high quality, phytogenic

compounds can be produced under controlled conditions
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INGREDIENTS
Biochemistry has developed a novel sustainable

technique to produce high
amounts of valuable secondary metabolites of basil
in bioreactors, the so-called
hairy roots technology.
Basil, the common name for
the culinary herb Ocimum
basilicum, comes from the
Greek word basileus, which
means King. Considered
the king of herbs it plays
an important role in both
Italian and Asian cuisine.
Basil contains high concentrations of essential oils
and potent antioxidants with anti-ageing, anti-cancer, anti-viral and anti-microbial properties. Due to these valuable components and its medicinal
properties it is also used in Ayurveda.
To start culturing it, only a single
plant leaf is needed. The plant materi-
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al is infected with the naturally occurring soil bacterium Agrobacterium rhizogenes. This infection then leads to
the growth of so-called hairy roots
which can be cultivated in-vitro (Fig. 1).
The white hairy root biomass can then
be extracted and dissolved in a carrier
in order to prepare the cosmetic active
for anti-hair loss formulations. Thanks
to this RootBioTec technology high
quality, phytogenic compounds of
basil of pharmaceutical value can be
produced under controlled conditions.
5 reductase inhibition
and hair follicle stimulation
5 reductase II is present in hair follicle cells and is the key target enzyme
to inhibit hair loss. It catalyzes the reduction of testosterone into the more
potent androgen dihydrotestosterone
(DHT), which has an affinity to androgenic receptors that is two to three
times greater. The active ingredient
RootBioTec HO showed a clear concentration dependent inhibition of 5
reductase II with an IC value of 2.62
mg/ml. As a positive control Finasteride, an approved 5 reductase in-
FOCUS: HAIR CARE
Fig. 2: The active ingredient showed a

clear concentration-dependent
inhibition of 5 reductase II
hibitor and synthetic drug to treat

baldness in men, was used (Fig. 2).
Another study was conducted with
human dermal papilla cells. Dermal
papilla cells are located at the base of
the hair follicle bulb and play an essential role in the control of hair growth.
They are involved in regulating the hair
growth cycle and the production of
hair fibre. The new active ingredient
improved the proliferation of these
cells by 23%, indicating a hair regrowth
effect.
Proven anti-hair loss effect

The effect of Root BioTec HO
against hair loss was evaluated on
19 women and 2 men (aged between
25 and 67) who were suffering from
mild to moderate hair loss (daily hair
loss >100 strains). The volunteers applied a fluid containing 1% of the ingredient every evening for two months.
After one and two months respectively,
volunteers collected the hair that was
lost as a result of combing on three
consecutive days.
The active ingredient showed the
capacity to reduce hair loss by 26% after the first month and 31% following
the second month*. These results suggest that it significantly reduces hair
loss and thus helps increase hair
density.
Luxurious
ampoules packaging for
the cosmetics industry
If the substances are of highest quality, the
packaging should be ambitious as well. An extraordinary customized printing of our ampoules,
made of clear and amber glass, again improves
visually the contents of your ampoules. The use of
special designed trays for e.g. the bathroom
guarantees an optimum storage and protection of
your luxurious ampoules.
We are at your service for any assistance you
may need for your individual packing solutions.
t us:
ich
Please visi
2015, Mun
ne
Ju
1
10-1
14
oth E
Hall 4, Bo
*Illustrations as well as additional information can

be found on the Internet see Internet panel
Esther Belser
Innovation Manager, Mibelle
Group Biochemistry
Buchs, Switzerland
esther.belser@mibellegroup.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG

Am Stammholz 11 97877 Wertheim / Germany
Phone (+49 93 42) 96 07-0 Fax (+49 93 42) 96 07-20
e-mail: info@lutz-packaging.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
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Hair care trends

User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Silicones shaping
innovative formulations
The versatility of silicones continues to shape new formulations

developed for the mature hair care market. They meet a wide
range of consumer needs in terms of sensory effects, performance, and safety.
much like a dry shampoo. It depends
on oil absorption to extend time between shampoos, yet it also offers other benefits: the water-based formula
delivers a fresh sensation to the scalp,
and its pump spray avoids aerosol application. It can be applied directly on
the hair or pumped onto the hands and
rubbed into the scalp, thus avoiding
the patches of white flakes that consumers sometimes experience when
spraying dry shampoos directly onto
their hair (see fig. 1).
New textures are also an important
part of the consumer experience and
the perception of performance and
quality of beauty care products. Heavily influenced by Asia, novel textures
have appeared in skin care and colour
cosmetics in recent years, and they
have been key to the dynamism of
those market segments. A similar
trend has been developing in hair care.
In response, Dow Cornings H2O Infusion Hair Texture Kit, which showcases
novel water-based, leave-in formulations that deliver new texture and form
along with proven consumer performance.
Formulation 2, Fresh Burst Wax* ,
illustrates a light, buttery-feeling wax
Formulations, related to individual authenticity, self expression and do-it-yourself

beauty care, meet the needs of todays
consumers
ell into the 21st century, the

global hair care market is
thriving on the growing
and changing needs of diverse consumers. Within an increasingly segmented and highly competitive
marketplace, formulators are challenged to create products for a broad
spectrum of hair types, ethnicities, cultures and regions. They must also
adapt to emerging economies, an ageing global population and a rapidly
expanding group of savvy, fashionforward shoppers.
The current market boasts $76.8 billion in hair care sales worldwide, with
Western Europe the third strongest
area at $15.8 billion. Shampoos and
conditioners make up 47% of hair care
12
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Innovative new product

forms and textures
Hair care is increasingly performance-driven. As consumer trends
change, new hair care habits encourage the emergence of product forms
such as conditioners that cleanse, preshampoo conditioners, a resurgence of
dry shampoos, texturizing sprays, and
scalp care products. New, novel conditioners and leave-on products can take
the form of oils, masks, mists, or jellies differentiated product forms that
derive their inspiration from skin care
products.
As an example of a new product
form, Dow Corning has developed a
water-based Hair Cleanser, Formulation 1*, which is based on a hydrophilic
silicone powder with sebum absorption properties. The formulation acts
photos: Dow Corning
photo: Geoffrey Jones, Shutterstock.com
sales in Western Europe and are expected to be the main contributors to

growth over the next five years. Today
more than six out of ten new hair care
product launches contain at least one
silicone. This broad family of ingredients fulfils a range of formulating
needs, which are influenced by trends
in the hair care market.
Fig. 1.: Before application of hair cleanser (left) and after application (right)
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INGREDIENTS
FOCUS: HAIR CARE
photos: Dow Corning
that gives a burst of water for a light

and refreshing sensation. The unusual
texture of this wax helps define curl
while imparting soft hold and a silky,
smooth feel.
Assessing trends for novel

hair care
Time and again, consumer expectation has evolved into the latest beauty
care trends. The hair care market is no
exception.
Dow Cornings Trends Lab initiative
is a platform of concept collections
that showcases formulations and
products that respond to emerging
beauty trends. Each collection is based
on thorough trends analysis paired
with innovative ingredients and extensive formulation expertise.
For example, the latest Trends Lab
segment focuses on the theme of You
are unique, and offers a series of formulations related to individual authenticity, self expression, do-it-yourself beauty care, and the specialized
needs of male consumers.
The category of self expression features one of the newer trends in hair
care; that of hair perfume. Hair is always in motion, making it an ideal fragrance diffuser. Although some women
may spray body fragrance onto their
hair, the drying effects of an alcoholbased product can be problematic.
Because Formulation 3, Mon Parfum*,
is water-based, that issue is avoided. In
addition to its scent, the formulation
provides conditioning, a moisturized
feel and shine.
New options for styling

The hair care market is also experiencing a trend towards more natural
styles. The styling segment is shrinking
in Europe with a resulting benefit for
the shampoo and conditioner segments. Consumers may choose to use
fewer styling products because they
dislike the associated stiffness, unnatural feel, and the so-called helmet effect. Natural hair is also an important
trend in the ethnic hair care market, especially in North America. Relaxing
products are less popular among consumers who, nowadays, want to reveal
the natural beauty of their textured
hair. This development has created a
new demand for products that help
moisturize the hair, while controlling
frizz and enhancing curl definition.
Fig. 2: Hair that appears dry and frizzy before treatment (left) significantly improves
after treatment with a formulation containing the new silicone fluid
A new specialty silicone fluid, dimethicone (and) phenyl trimethicone

(and) trimethylsiloxysilicate (and)
dimethiconol has been optimized for
superior frizz control from water-based
systems, along with a natural look and
feel. The clear silicone fluid has been
evaluated with a range of hair types
and also provides the additional benefits of shine and heat protection.
Formulation 4, Anti-Frizz Hydro
Serum*, illustrates a serum that leaves
a light feel on hair. In addition to frizz

control, its oil-in-water composition
provides curl definition and styling
ease.
The new silicone fluid also offers
the added benefit of stylability.
Based on the Fashion Week catwalk
from the beginning of this year, hair accessories are clearly a trend. By rendering hair less slippery than when treated with the anhydrous solutions commonly used for frizz-control, the new
silicone fluid helps keep hair clips and
other accessories in place.
Specifically developed for ethnic
hair, Formulation 5, Happy Hair*, is a
hair treatment cream that offers frizz
control along with curl definition. Its
jelly-like texture also imparts moisturization and smoothness. This formulation controls frizz and also aids curl
definition (see fig. 2).
Silicone safety
In addition to following fashion
trends and having hair that is attractive
and healthy looking, consumers are increasingly interested in product safety.
This is especially true for personal care
products that contact the skin and
scalp. Silicones have been widely used
in a range of hair care products since
the 1970s, and they are stable and inert
under conditions for the intended
applications.
In the US, dimethicone is listed in

the FDA Skin Protectant Monograph.
When used between 130% in formulations, it allows claims such as temporarily protects and helps relieve
chapped or cracked skin and lips.
Helps protect from the drying effect of
wind and cold weather.1
Silicones also have a long history of
use in creams used for occupational
disease prevention2,3.
Last but not least, silicones are
used in various health care applications. An example is scar management,
where several recent studies have
shown the efficacy of silicone-based
creams for the treatment of keloid
scars4-8.
The versatility of silicones

in hair care products
Todays hair care market is large
and mature, yet it remains dynamic because of evolving trends and changing
demographics. More innovative products come to market each year, and differentiating them for varying hair care
needs and regional cultures remains
the key to success. Silicones continue
to be essential ingredients in the hair
care market; they shape the formulations being developed and the products offered to consumers. Their versatility meets a wide range of consumer
needs in terms of sensory effects, performance, and safety.
*Additional information and reference list can be found
on the Internet see Internet panel
Sylvain Mass
European Hair Care Market Leader
Dow Corning Europe
Brussels, Belgium
sylvain.masse@dowcorning.com
www.dowcorning.com
COSSMA 6 I 2015
13
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Signature hair texture

solutions
the design of ingredients and the architecture of hair-care formulations.
With bio-functional plant extracts
maintaining hair vitality, as well as including deposition polymers to advance anti-dandruff actives and care
Downloads
photo: Leonid and Anna Dedukh, Shutterstock.com

User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Formulations that add volume to Caucasian hair and optimize Asian hair texture
Linda Foltis, of Ashland Specialty Ingredients,

outlines a holistic approach to meeting the demands
of hair textures around the globe.
iven the complexity of hair, it is

important to take a holistic
root-to-tip approach in hair
management and style creation.
Healthy looking vibrant hair starts at
the root where the hair fibre is produced. The hair follicle is one of the
most complex mini-organs on the
body and is comprised of about 20 different cell types. Furthermore it is in-
14
COSSMA 6 I 2015
fluenced internally by hormones,

cytokines, neurotransmitters, enzymes
and transcription factors; while externally it is affected by UV, oxidative
stress and chemical stress.
Focusing on the six primary hair
textures fine, straight, wavy, coarse,
frizzy and curly, as well as adding the
growing trend in beards Ashland offers a holistic root-to-tip approach in
ingredients in scalp and shampoo formulations, hair-care solutions understandably begin at the root. Furthermore, polymer technology boosts volume, helps repair damaged hair fibers,
enhances the hairs natural texture and
assures long-lasting humidity-resistant styles in hair conditioner, treatment, styling and finishing products
All of this helps to optimise the look
of beautiful hair.
A holistic solutions approach is
supported scientifically with a range of
measurements and consumer science
evaluations based on hair type. Interethnic variations in hair have been
quantified by morphology, geometry
and mechanical properties.
Exploring the variations of hair texture across the globe, and its impact
on hydro- and bio-mechanical behaviour and shape memory, provides insights that enable the development of
technologies that embrace or transform hair texture.
Adding volume
in Caucasian hair
A case in point is seen with fine
Caucasian hair. Characterized by an
oval cross-sectional shape, an ellipticity that ranges between 1.17 and 1.41,
and a cross-sectional diameter that
ranges from 60 to 80 microns, many
consumers point to a lack of volume as
a major challenge. As fiber diameter
COS1506_14_Ashland_Hair_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 22.05.15 08:30 Seite 15
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decreases, styling becomes problematic. Fine thin hair has fewer

internal proteins than thick hair, resulting in a more flexible structure. Accordingly, it tends to lay flat.
Ashland experts in the design of texture-enhancing, volumizing and root-lifting ingredients has incorporated some of these
novel ingredients into demonstration formulations, in order to
specifically address the aesthetic shortfalls typically seen in fine
Caucasian hair. The suggested 4-product regimen aims to assure
consumer-desirable volume and texture.
A moisture softening shampoo incorporates the N-DurHance
A-1000 conditioning polymer a polymer demonstrated to provide
long-lasting conditioning and repair to damaged hair without silicone. This is complemented with Ceraphyl60 ester a cationic surfactant that enhances smoothness and antistatic properties. Mildness is incorporated into the formulation with Zenix 4617 phosphate ester (an anionic surfactant) and Ceraphyl 41 ester (which
also contributes to the foam profile).
Following this cleansing regimen, consumers may apply the
daily-use rinse-off conditioner that contains the Natrosol 250 HHR
texture enhancer and N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer.
This is followed by a leave-in water-based scalp serum with
Capauxein biofunctional which enhances hair density.
To create a voluminous style, a 6% VOC volumizing mousse is
recommended. A demonstration formula with Aquaflex XL-30 polymer provides lasting volume and root boost, which results in
touchable hold and easy styling with humidity resistance. Styleze
CC-10 polymer is added to enhance the bodying effect and contribute to foam integrity. The mousse is simply applied to damp
hair and worked in from root to tip before blow drying to create
lasting volume and lift.
Optimizing Asian hair texture

Asian hair is characterized by a circular cross-sectional shape
and a cuticle morphology with a narrower interval and higher inclination than Caucasian hair. Moreover, at 100 to 120 microns the
average cross-sectional diameter of Asian hair is much larger than
Caucasian hair. These attributes influence the type of ingredients
incorporated into demonstration formulations.
Included in Ashlands recommended hair care regimen for Asian
hair is a dandruff shampoo with conditioning benefits. N-Hance
4572 conditioning polymer enables efficient deposition of zinc
pyrithione (ZPT), along with conditioning benefits. Ceraphyl 60 ester provides moisturizing and antistatic benefits; while Ceraphyl 41
ester improves the foam profile and overall texture of the shampoo.
To maintain strong healthy hair, the company recommends
treating the roots with a water-based scalp serum that contains
Dynagen biofunctional a patent-pending yeast extract that provides consumer-perceivable benefits in terms of stronger, thicker,
healthier hair feel.
A 2-phase hair glosser is the solution offered to enhance shine
and manageability. The Advantage LCA polymer is included in this
demonstration formula to support these effects; while the Ceraphyl
230 ester is added to provide a dry after-feel.
Additional information can be found on the Internet see Internet panel
Linda Foltis
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Covington, KY, USA
personalcare@ashland.com
www.ashland.com/personalcare
IBR-PRISTINIZER
Natural extract of a deser t flower
Anti-Pollution: effective shield against
pollution
Anti-Aging: significant anti-wrinkle effect
for smooth and elastic skin
Innovation: clinical study on heavy
smokers
Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Strae 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90
E-Mail: kosmetik@impag.de
Web: www.impag.de
Produced by
IMPAG Group Country Offices
Switzerland/Zurich www.impag.ch
Germany/Offenbach www.impag.de
France/Nancy www.impag.fr
Poland/Warsaw www.impag.pl
Austria / Vienna www.impag.at
COS1506_16_Kao_COS1405_10_Croda_D 22.05.15 08:31 Seite 16
www.cossma.com
FOCUS: HAIR CARE PACKAGING
Co-operation between KAO and HAWK creates
new packaging
for salon hair care
The spiral dispenser helps consumers
to reach residues that stick to the inner
surface of a bottle
Achieving goals
According to Prof. Simon, when
they developed the concepts, the
group of bachelors and masters
students (which comprised Jendrik
Kleefeld, Wiebke Hoyer, Nadine Ner-
photos: DVI
About PackVision + DVI
With its PackVision initiative, the German Packaging Institute DVI

has linked company expertise within the packaging industry with
the creativity of budding designers. Kao Germany and the Faculty
of Design at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts HAWK in
Hildesheim have created some exciting solutions for the backbar
area of hairdressers.
he assignment of Professor
Nicole Simons students* was
this: developing new approaches
in the backbar area for hair cosmetic
products.
Since 2006, the DVIs PackVision initiative has regularly brought together
the expertise of successful companies
within the packaging industry with the
creativity of young students.
In this case they instigated and
mediated the co-operation between
Darmstadt-based Kao Germany, a
global manufacturer of hair-care products, with broad expertise on the specific requirements of such packaging
and HAWK.
16
COSSMA 6 I 2015
The briefing at the kick-off meeting

set out three challenging requirements
to be resolved: Firstly, the salon feeling visual impact in the salon, innovative dispensing systems, exclusive
mixing techniques, special types of applications, and large containers. A second important factor in the backbar
area is time pressure and lack of space,
which increases the importance of intuitive use, including good distinction,
reliable functioning, easy handling and
perfect hygiene. And last, but by no
means least, sustainability was important, with optimal emptying and easy
refilling systems being the uppermost
concern.
With PackVision, the German Packaging

Institute (DVI) has linked the creativity
of students from well-known German
(design) universities with the knowledge
and practical experience of renowned
companies from the brand arena.
The DVI is the only network in the packaging industry which unites companies
covering the entire value chain of packaging. In addition to PackVision, the DVI
initiatives include the German Packaging
Award, the Packaging Academy, the
German Packaging Congress and the
Dresden Packaging Conference.
www.packvision.org
www.verpackung.org
ing, Christina Nowak, Inga Olsen, and

Eva Lnser) used perfectly staged and
emotive models of their targeted packaging visions, as yet unknown in the
hair salon scene. For Peter Lamboy
(Kao Director of Packaging Development) the PackVision project was very
successful, as the task was by no
means easy, not just focussing on a
small, limited product range, but on
many aspects of the hairdressing business. Manfred Lott (Senior Manager
of Packaging Development) is not only delighted by the result, but also by
the approach and commitment of the
students. In the end, Peter Lamboy
and Manfred Lott invited the students
to Darmstadt to repeat the presentation in front of employees from different departments of Kao Germany.
COS1506_16_Kao_COS1405_10_Croda_D 22.05.15 08:32 Seite 17
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PACKAGING
About Kao Germany

Owned by the Japanese company Kao,
Kao Germany is a global provider of
beauty care products. In Europe, their
brand portfolio ranges from well-established hairdressing brands such as
Goldwell and KMS California to the
London luxury brand for body care
and cosmetics Molton Brown.
www.kao.com
Creative innovations
The students presented packaging
solutions, such as the dosage buzzer,
a penguin-shaped bottle with a round,
flat head, which dispenses a measured
quantity of the product when pressed
with the palm of the hand, without having to break off from work. The brushtwist with an attractive and sturdy
packaging was also eye-catching with
its spherical packaging that combined
conditioning emulsion and brush for
gentle massaging.
The designers put forward a number
of intriguing solutions focusing on
residual emptying properties. They
came up with innovative dispenser solutions in the form of Scrooge, hole
disk or spiral which enable the use of

residues that stick to the inner surfaces
of a bottle or tube. The designers also
chose a completely novel approach
with an accordion-folding tube, which
enables it to be completely emptied by
folding it right up to the height of its
fixed plastic lid.
2-in-1 refill systems for shampoo
and conditioner a refillable bag with
bellows or wax pens with fill-level
scale and wax cartridges for refilling,
were further innovations by the students who also developed tray shelves,
oversized dispensers for the brand experience and systems for simple differ-
About the Faculty

of Design at HAWK
The design course at HAWK in Hildesheim
is interdisciplinary and multidisciplinary.
There is a choice of 9 in-depth specializations. Packaging design, as part of
branding design, systematically deals
with the extensive field of corporate
communication at the content and
design level.
www.hawk-hhg.de
FOCUS: HAIR CARE
The spherical brush-twist combining

conditioning emulsion and brush for
gentle massaging
entiation of products in everyday hairdressing work.

The results showed how fruitful and
absolutely practical the idea of combining market expertise and a team
with fresh vigour thinking about the
issue out of the box is.
*Packaging Design II project module of the Faculty
of Design course
Because the results are still partially confidential,
only some of the packaging innovations can be
presented at the present time
Oliver Bernd
Project Manager Events, DVI
Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut
Berlin, Germany
info@verpackung.org
www.verpackung.org
COS1506_18_Mintel_COS1409_18_Mintel_D 22.05.15 08:32 Seite 18
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FOCUS: HAIR CARE
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
International launches
photos: Mintel
This month Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Colour

Cosmetics Analyst at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative
hair care products.
Redkens finishing sheets
are designed to eliminate
fly-away hair
Byredos hair perfume for a

long-lasting scent that subtly
diffuses throughout the day
John Friedas semi-permanent

rinse-off treatment contains
volume-boosting polymers
that thicken hair fibre
Pulamus shampoo features

microorganisms that are
beneficial for ones health
he Redken Frizz Dismiss range is

said to offer the first Frizz Protection Factor (FPF) with four levels
of smoothing and humidity protection
for all hair types. Available as part of
the range is FPF 10 Fly-Away Fix Finishing Sheets for All Hair Types which, infused with lavender oil, is designed to
dismiss static and eliminate fly-aways.
Byredos new collection of Eaux de
Cologne features Gypsy Water now
available in a Parfum pour Cheveux
(Hair Perfume) variety which is designed to care for the hair and offer an
uplifting and long-lasting scent that
subtly diffuses throughout the day and
is amplified by the natural movement
of the hair.
John Friedas Luxurious Volume 7
Day Volume In-Shower Treatment is
suitable for all short or long hair types

as well as colour- and/or chemicallytreated hair. It is designed to transform
fine strands and amplify thickness
from the inside out for up to seven
days. The treatment with volumeboosting polymers will penetrate
strands in order to thicken individual
fibres and enhance texture. It is
claimed that the semi-permanent
rinse-off treatment leaves the hair feeling noticeably thicker and lasts
through multiple washes.
EverMiracle Pulamu EM Effective Microorganisms Hair Shampoo features a
Raccos hair mask for

daily use is enriched
with an anti-ageing
complex of cystein and
amino acids
Shiseidos conditioner is designed

to gradually colour grey hair
18
COSSMA 6 I 2015
formula with EM ferment extract technology to recover, soften and shimmer

the hair, as well as clean the scalp. It
contains microorganisms, lactobacillus, yeast fungus and rhodopseudomonas palustris to generate antioxidant metabolism that is said to be
beneficial for the health.
With its reconstructive capillary
density formula Racco Srie Premiums hair mask for daily use Mscara
Reconstrutora de Uso Dirio for damaged, brittle and colour-treated hair
is designed to increase the resistance
of the hair against damage, while recovering its integrity through deep
moisturisation. The professional mask
is enriched with an anti-ageing complex of cystein and amino acids.

In South Africa, Perfect Choice ProShine Oil Sheen Spray is claimed to
give lasting shine thanks to its silicone-enriched formula and can be
used on naturally relaxed hair, weaves,
braids or wigs. It is also claimed that it
reduces the formation of split ends
that are caused by chemical processes.
It contains castor oil to seal in moisture.
Downloads
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Kos Infinitys Esthetic Cleansing

Cream is described as an all-in-one
product that works as a shampoo, hair

and scalp treatment. It is claimed to
promote microcirculation through
massaging, restore damaged hair and
boost the benefits of hair growth tonic
by cleansing the scalp. The non-foaming formula is enriched with a variety of
botanical ingredients for moisturising.
Shiseidos Prior, is a new cosmetic
range targeted at women over 50. Its
Color Conditioner with a natural alga
extract for moisturising is designed
to gradually colour grey hair, repair
damage and add radiance.
Additional information can be found on the Internet
see Internet panel
Emmanuelle Moeglin
Global Fragrance and Colour
Cosmetics Analyst, Mintel
London, England
www.mintel.com
COS1506_Bayer_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:30 Seite 1
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Hair can be the mirror of ones soul.

Lets polish and protect it and keep it in balance.
Bayer MaterialScience AG, 51368 Leverkusen, Germany MS00070844
With our Baycusan C 1008.
Your smoothest way to combine hold and exibility!

Baycusan C 1008 sets new benchmarks in hair care with
our three-fold formulation advantage: outstanding properties
in protection, repair and styling for beautiful hair every day.
www.baycusan.com
Beauty Made Possible.
COS1506_20_Imogen_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.15 08:33 Seite 20
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MARKETING EVENTS
In-Cosmetics Marketing Trends Presentations 2015
Multi-facetted global
trends in a nutshell
Imogen Matthews summarises the most
important facts from the very latest trend
data and insights into cosmetics, toiletries
and fragrances presented at this years
Marketing Trends Presentations which took
place at this years 25th anniversary edition
of In-Cosmetics in April in Barcelona.
20
COSSMA 6 I 2015
In Asia women often add

in new products to create
a much wider routine including double cleansing
the world. She referred to the twin

trends of multifunctional products
and hypersegmentation, saying, Most
consumers blend the two approaches
to create a curated regime. For some,
this means knocking out steps from
their skin care regime which are replaced with an alphabet product (e.g.
BB/CC), while others add in new products to create a much wider routine. In
South Korea, for example, women often incorporate 812 skin care steps,
including double cleansing, toner,
essence, anti-ageing essence/cream,
hydrating cream, eye cream, day
cream, sun screen. Some even end up
using a BB/CC cream on top.
Focusing on China, where skin care
is a booming market, Rudd described
how consumers prefer richer textures
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Password: hair
due to their colder climate and will

swap these for lighter formulations in
the warmer summer months. Many
use a sheet mask every day, sometimes
twice a day for extra hydration and
whitening, she said.
The expansion of beauty regimes is
also evident in hair care, which has
been moving closer to skin care over
the past 23 years. Brazilian and
Chinese hair care rituals are complex.
In China, consumers use 7+ steps,
whereas in the UK this is just 12 steps.
Brazilian women are passionate about
hair and the market is very sophisticated and multi-faceted, especially in the
adoption of treatment products.
Opportunities for new hair care segments include pre-shampoo treatments to exfoliate the scalp and lift
dandruff (like boosters in skin care),
detox hair treatment kits and refresher
products for the hijab wearer, who is
more prone to sweaty scalp and damaged hair problems. Cleansing conditioners are another new segment, arising from the way that consumers use
photo: Flex Dreams, Shutterstock.com
lobal sales of cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances reached

$465bn in 2014, up $23bn on
the previous year, according to Euromonitor. The four biggest markets,
skin care, hair care, colour cosmetics
and fragrances all put on between
56% in sales growth with good future
potential, especially in emerging markets. The top growth segments, including facial moisturisers, anti-agers,
mens toiletries and face masks, will
bring new lucrative opportunities,
explained IIdiko Szalai, Beauty and
Personal Care Senior Analyst from
Euromonitor International.
New emerging markets beauty
brands should focus on include Indonesia, Pakistan, Morocco, Saudi
Arabia, Vietnam, UAE and India.
These countries have a young population, a growing middle class and
greater urbanisation, but most important, a growing sophistication in beauty habits, said Szalai. She suggested
that products which are big in one region could present niche opportunities
in others, such as face masks in China
which are catching on in the US and
hair oils in Japan which show promise
in the Middle East.
The Asianification of beauty as a
major trend which is moving from east
to west was highlighted by Euromonitor and other presentations. Theres
an international demand for brand Korea, especially in skin care and mens
grooming, maintained Szalai.
Vivienne Rudd, Director of Innovation & Insight, Beauty & Personal Care,
Mintel, described beauty rituals across
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
in Spain, where Mintel found that 25%

of consumers were interested in perfume for the hair, especially those
containing hair care benefits. Moeglin
suggested that scented dry shampoo
could bridge the gap with hair fragrance.
Mintel has noted a consistent trend
across product categories for scent
used for its added benefits. For example, 67% of US fragrance wearers are interested in mood/stress relief fragrances. An example is LOccitane en
photo: Nadya Korobkova, Shutterstock.com
dilute conditioner rather than shampooing each time they wash their hair.
Consumers perception of scent differs across the world but is a top purchase driver in many personal care categories. According to Mintel, fragrance
ranks ahead of moisturising functions
in soap, bath and shower products,
and is nearly as important as protection when buying a deodorant. Sometimes there is a disparity between what
consumers think and the way that
products are marketed. For example, in
shampoo and conditioner, fragrance is
a top priority for 42% of US consumers,
yet 95% of products say nothing about
fragrance on the pack.
Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance & Personal Care Analyst, Mintel,
showed how fine-fragrance inspired
scents (described by Mintel as fantasy) are on the rise across all categories, from shower products to functional household products, such as
surface cleaners and fabric conditioners. Were seeing an increase in hybrid
products, such as fine fabric fragrances
for cashmere, lingerie and delicate
fabrics, explained Moeglin. A recent
trend for hair perfumes is catching on
MARKETING
Provence Aromachologie 5 Essential

Oils Repairing Conditioner. Many con-
sumers would want longer-lasting fragrance in their toiletries, which can be

achieved through encapsulation techniques. For example, Rexona Antiperspirant Deodorant Spray is formulated
with MotionSense System technology
that activates deodorising micro capsules when the body moves and skin
temperature rises.
Trend watching
by product sector
Smart technology is infiltrating
many consumer markets, including
cosmetics and toiletries, with innova-
Even though fragrance is a top priority for

42% of US consumers in shampoo and
conditioner, 95% of the products dont
mention fragrance on the pack
tive launches designed to speed up

and make the beauty routine more
pleasurable and effective. Ramaa
Chipalkatti, Senior Analyst, Datamonitor, highlighted some of the latest
technology, including the ClickStick
www.cossma.com
photo: Palmer Kane LLC, Shutterstock.com
MARKETING
EVENTS
By 2050, ethnic minorities will be a majority, with Hispanics

accounting for 28% of
the population, blacks
17% and Asians 8%
Smart Electric Deodorant with a

dosage control system designed to dispense exact quantities based on activity levels and sends reminders if the
user forgets to put on deodorant. Most
consumers conduct their beauty treatments at home as opposed to a spa or
salon, with battery-powered beauty devices used most often for hair removal,
hair treatments, body treatments,
facials and hand and nail treatments.
According to Chipalkatti, much beauty
device innovation is beyond the face,
such as Micro Nail, a nail care tool that
provides a professional-looking manicure. Meanwhile, skin care brands are
adding tools to their portfolio, such as
Olays electronic cleanser for use with
its Fresh Effects cleaners and Dr. Jart
BB Blemish Base Set, consisting of a
battery operated buffer for use with its
BB cream. Devices are becoming more
affordable and can give personal care
brands a competitive edge, commented Chipalkatti. Future innovation is
likely to come from the leveraging of
mobile apps designed to help consumers towards more personalised
product choice.
Peter Luebcke, Head of Personal
Care, Cambridge Consultants, discussed the evolution of novel innovative packaging and dispensing concepts developed in other markets, such
as medical and now crossing over into
cosmetics and personal care. The
challenge is getting the formulation in
the right place in the right dose in a format that must be enjoyable to the consumer, he explained. Connectivity
and Bluetooth are helping to personalise products, such as diagnostics for
hair and skin. For example, smartphones have a lot of processing power
22
COSSMA 6 I 2015
to measure areas such as skin ageing

or hyper-pigmentation. The opening
and shutting of a device can generate
energy doing away with the need for
batteries. Some of the new packaging
concepts coming our way include Vortik, a novel cyclonic spray system that
enables creams to be sprayed without
clogging up the nozzle.
According to Jamie Mills, Associate
Analyst, Datamonitor, men still have a
long way to go in their approach to
grooming. Just 31% of men use facial
skin care products and some men are
even using hand cream or nothing on
their faces, she revealed to gasps from
the audience. However, the enlightened male groomer is changing from
metrosexual to two new types influenced by visual culture: spornosexual, with the emphasis on male sexuality and inspired by sportsmen, and the
antithesis, which is lumbersexual,
describing men who embrace and emphasise masculine traits and appear
rugged.
Beards are big and one of the top innovation trends are products to clean
and style beards. They include products such as Billy Jealousy Beard Wash,
Tom Ford Conditioning Beard Oil and
Vichy Homme Idealizer 3 Day Beard,
aimed at men who do not shave on a
daily basis. Male cosmetics continue
to have minority appeal and with new
launches reflecting current trends in
womens products, such as male sunscreen IOPE Men Air Cushion Broad
Spectrum SPF50+. Male polish from
Evolution Man may prove a step too far
for many men, but Garnier Men The
Ultimate Protective Lip Balm is the kind
of product men may use, as long as it
doesnt contain colour pigment. Men
are extremely results driven and

brands need to ensure they enhance
product efficacy credentials, stated
Mills. Opportunities exist in repositioning and reformulating products
targeted at women in conjunction with
manly marketing and packaging.
The opportunities for ethnic beauty
products aimed at US consumers were
discussed by Vera Sandarova, Marketing Manager, Kline & Company. By
2050, ethnic minorities will be a majority, with Hispanics accounting for 28%
of the population, blacks 17% and
Asians 8%. In 2014, multicultural ethnic personal care products grew by
3.7%, outpacing the total cosmetics &
toiletries market. In addition to the
growth in the ethnic population, there
has been an expansion of new products, intensified competition and increased distribution and marketing.
Ethnic hair care is the largest sector
and styling aids is the largest and also
fastest growing category. There has
been a decline in the relaxers segment
mirrored by the trend towards texture
rather than ethnicity. The second
largest sector is make-up, where liquid
foundation and loose powder foundations are popular choices. There is a
trend towards make-up with added
benefits and new and trendy colours.
In skin care, alphabet creams are a
growth area, although there is a lower
demand for anti-ageing products compared to the market as a whole. Carols
Daughter is the leading ethnic skin care
brand and there has been in increasing
number of hair care brands crossing
over into skin care. Sandarova pointed
out that the boundaries between general and multicultural beauty brands
are blurring as more mainstream
brands enter the market, such as Maybelline, Cover Girl and Revlon.
Natural & organic goes green

Leading the panel discussion on
green and natural standards and certifications, Amarjit Sahota, CEO, Organic Monitor, confirmed that there are
over 40 standards used globally, mostly in Europe. Certified products make
up 26% of the total European cosmetics market. According to UK research,
55% of consumers said they were willing to pay more for certified products.
In the US, there are just three major
standards and certified products make
up less than $0.5m of the $6.1bn beau-
COS1506_Kosmetik_Konzept_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:31 Seite 1
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www.cossma.com
EVENTS
photo: Javi Indy, Shutterstock.com
MARKETING
Ethnic hair care is the largest sector within

the ethnic beauty segment
ty market. It should be the goal of

beauty brands that if they are making a
natural/organic product that they
should have a standard, maintained
Sahota, asking how beauty can follow
the success of organic foods and how
adoption rates can be increased.
The panel tackling standards was
represented by Anais Hembis, Cosmetics Certification Manager, Ecocert, Emma Reinhold, Trade Relations Manager,
Soil Association, Jaclyn Bowen,
Director, NSF Agriculture North America, Dr. Mark Smith, Regulatory & Scientific Manager, NaTrue, and Alain Khaiat,
Owner, Seers Consulting. All agreed
that harmonisation of bodies should
be the goal. Soil Association and Ecocert and three others came together to
create a consensus (Cosmos) and see
harmonisation as the way forward, explained Reinhold. It was agreed there
should be one global certified label.
However, in the US, definitions of natural and organic are still in their infancy.
We allow manufacturers and consumers to talk about it and will come
up with a definition in the future, said
Bowen. Alain Khaiat commented: The
ISO standard for ingredients has been
approved and will be published at the
end of this year and we are still working
on one for finished products. If we have
international criteria this will carry
more weight in the future. Further discussions focused on the fact that consumers do not buy natural/organic because of a logo but must have reassurance that products are safe, effective
and have cosmeticity.
According to Kline & Company,
global sales of natural & organic cosmetics reached $33bn in 2014, repre24
COSSMA 6 I 2015
senting a 10% increase year on year. By

country, Brazil was the fastest growing
market, while Asia was the largest
overall; skin care was the biggest natural/organic category. Kline uses its own
definitions for natural-inspired and
truly natural products based on the
amount of synthetic versus natural/
organic ingredients contained in the
formulation. Agnieszka Saintemarie,
Project Manager, Consumer Products,
Kline, pointed out that certain product
categories proved difficult because of
the challenge of formulating according
to natural principles, including nail
polish and hair colourants. Consumers are becoming increasingly educated and read labels, which is driving growth in Europe and the US, she
observed. The European market is led
by natural-inspired brands, including
Yves Rocher and Oriflame, while the
US market is far more fragmented. A
further European trend read by Kline
was the number of European marketers venturing into the professional
segment.
Business know-how
for beauty brands
Selling online to consumers is not
simply about having an e-commerce
presence but understanding the way
the technology is transforming how
brands behave. Were in the age of
access, said Annabelle Burke, Lowe
Profero London. There are three things
that matter in engaging with consumers in order to drive purchase: find,
inspire, connect. All three are critical.
Burke pointed out that by adding social context to a purchase, brands can
increase sales by up to four times. Creative and effective social media formats include YouTubes How to content, such as Unilevers non-branded
channel; Thread.com, helps consumers make choices and Digit monitors saving without consumers realising they are making a saving.
R&D Marketing is a way to apply
tools, guidelines and best practices
from consumer marketing towards the
chemistry side of the business. Diana
Sexauer, Managing Partner, and Ute
Doepner-Reichenbach, Managing Director, SpringPool consultancy, discussed three steps to achieving this: a
deep dive into technology, getting under the skin of the consumer and developing a concept. Providing a fictitious
example, they built up a concept based

on understanding what is unique, and
innovative about a technology and detecting what consumers want through
hidden insights. Combining insight,
rational and emotional benefits and
giving consumers a reason to believe
can provide a powerful brand concept.
The Beiersdorf Consumer Centricity
Unit provides insight-based innovation
in order to provide powerful concepts
for new product development. According to Susanne Jentsch, Consumer Insights, Beiersdorf, there are three factors for big innovation: Strong impact,
strong technological solutions that
benefit the consumer and support for
few big innovations for longer. Only
when you get really close to consumers
can you turn insights into action. You
have to tell convincing stories, she
maintained. Insights are often hidden
and not obvious, so are necessarily not
top of mind for consumers. She gave
the example of Nivea Deo Invisible for
Black and White, which touched on an
insight that many find embarrassing:
stains on clothes. It was the first of its
kind on the market. You have to act
faster than the competition to create
an advantage, pointed out Jentsch.
Sergio Balana Vicente, Lawyer,
Balana Vicente explained the ins and
outs of protecting fragrances, smells
and perfumes. Explaining the different
forms of protection, he pointed out
that they are not entirely comprehensive as they have limitations in terms
of time and conditions. So trademarks
only prevent others using them when
used in connection with their commercial origin or they are used on similar
goods. Copyright is valid for 70 years
after the authors death; patents can be
used 20 years from application, while
trade secrets have no length, but when
information is shared with a wider audience, the protection in broken. The
key to protecting intellectual property
is the ability to graphically represent it,
but this is not always possible for fragrances, because a written description
is not enough in representing an
odour, while a chemical formulation
would not be readily understood. Internationally, opinion over whether a
perfume can be protected is divided.
The Netherlands says yes and the
lower courts of France agree. However,
the French Supreme Court says no,
explained Balana Vicente.
COS1506_NCD_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:31 Seite 1
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COSMETIC BUSINESS
MOC MNCHEN
10. - 11. JUNI 2015
NCD INGREDIENTS
HALL 4 - BOOTH F07
NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C

POWERFUL ANTI-AGEING FROM THE SEA
NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C is a powerful anti-wrinkle active, which strongly stimulates production of structural skin proteins.
In vitro tests show the capacity of NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C to stimulate cellular proliferation and ex-novo synthesis of collagen. The treatment of skin broblasts with NATURA-TEC MARINE
BLUEVITAL C signicantly increased collagen synthesis by 19% at 2%, in only 24h.
Already 0.5%,leed to a gradual increase of up to 17% of the collagen synthesis after 72h, compared
to untreated cells. In vivo tests carried out with a formulation containing 1.5% of NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C, show a signicant and visible anti-wrinkle activity. In 2 months the wrinkle depth
decreases signicantly. Additionally, the volunteers panel conrmed a dramatic improvement of the
elasticity, hydration and softness of the skin.
NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C is a key ingredient that helps strengthen skin while restoring its
natural suppleness, radiance and beauty. Recommended dosage of NATURA-TEC MARINE BLUEVITAL C
for skin care applications: 0.2 2.0%.
NCD Ingredients GmbH simply good

Ruhrstr. 15 63452 Hanau Germany Fon: +49 (0)6181-30475-0 Fax: +49 (0)6181-30475-29
info@ncd-ingredients.de www.ncd-ingredients.de
www.cossma.com
MARKETING EVENTS
According to Tadej Feregotto, CEO,

The latest trend detox hair treatment kits and refresher products
for hijab wearers prone to a
sweaty scalp or damaged hair
metic claims are important because

they help to differentiate products,
help consumers choose products and
drive sales. Claims are not just what
appears on labels, but on websites and
at point of sale. The Responsible Persons (RP) role is to ensure compliance
with the EU Regulations; if not, the
brand faces penalties. Feregotto explained which claims can and cannot
be made, such as a product claiming to
contain ingredients not included in the
formulation; claims denigrating competitors or purporting to treat or prevent diseases are also disallowed. The
main challenge facing the RP is that
companies do not understand the
need to substantiate claims and the
implication of non-compliance. Its
impossible to follow all the marketing
channels where clients make claims,
maintained Feregotto, who often
comes across companies who only
start thinking about claims at the end
of the process.
Roundtable discussions from

leading industry experts
Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor,
COSSMA, led a discussion on the main
challenges for niche start-up beauty

brands, which included Katia Tolmacheva, Business Development Director, Sepai Skin care, Helen Miller,
Managing Director, Helen Miller Consulting and Lutz Herrmann, Founder,
Lutz Herrmann Design. Representing
brands, Katia Tolmacheva described
the ethos behind Sepai, which was to
deliver something different against the
market paradigm by providing customised skin care regimes based on organic bases mixed with a strong cocktail of actives. Never forget what made
you launch your own company and do
something different with passion, she
advised. Lutz Herrmann showed a design study of J.F. Schwarzlose, a luxury
fragrance brand, and its German heritage dating back to Berlin in the 1920s.
We used an old sleeping beauty that
was forgotten to recreate something
relevant for today, he explained. Helen Miller has worked for many years as
a beauty buyer at Boots and was responsible for a 1.5bn business, as
well as developing the iconic No.7
brand. She revealed that out of the
thousands of new concepts presented
26
COSSMA 6 I 2015
photo: Antonio Guillem, Shutterstock.com
CE.Way Regulatory Consultants, cos-
each year, only a very small number

succeed. Sometimes there is a gap in
the retailers portfolio. Often it comes
down to what you think is the strongest
brand with the strongest people behind it, she explained, stating that
brands must be clear on the USP that
will appeal to customers. Her tips included making products stand out
from the crowd, as all brands look the
same when put on shelf.
The latest advancements of in vitro
evaluation of cosmetics were discussed in a roundtable moderated by
Vincent Gallon, Journalist, Premiumbeautynews.com and Brazilbeautynews.com. Under discussion was the
issue of animal testing and alternatives, including the use of reconstructed skin models which are currently being examined by Cosmetics Europe.
Cost is a key consideration, because if
the assays are too complicated or expensive, then the chances of success
decrease.
Future trends and

opportunities
Techno-poetry and self-expression
were the two trend predictions extracted by trends agency Peclers Paris
Beaut book. We are now moving from
functional technology to emotional
technology, stated Pierre Bisseuil, Research Director, Peclers Paris. People
are more stressed by technology and
there is no such joy towards tech as
there was before. He suggested that
the idea of a combination of technology and emotion translates into a concept called techno-poetry, which is
about re-humanising technology and
making it more reassuring. In terms of
self-expression, Bisseuil talked about a

new positive ideal body, meaning that
the body is seen as a medium of expression. The selfie phenomenon is
part of this. People want to look good
on their own stage as they are fascinated with how they look and cosmetic
companies must adapt.
A round table discussion, hosted by
Andrew McDougall, Editor, Cosmetics
Design, focused on the global challenges facing brands, especially when
it comes to regulations. The most
challenges are in the Asia region and
the last couple of years have been getting more difficult, so were investing
more in the regulatory area, stated
Garrett Moran, Director of Product
Safety, Oriflame. Simon Duffy, CoFounder, Bulldog Skin Care, explained
how a cruelty-free stance has been the
foundation principle of the brand but
there is a global misalignment on animal testing. Retailers in China are interested but its not legal to launch
without animal testing, he said. Antonia Kenning, Regulatory Manager, New
Product Development, Burberry, talked
about the need to be pragmatic when
dealing with regulatory challenges
which are carried out by an in-house
team. We make sure that formulations
pass all the tests and that they comply
to any regulation changes and advertising claims. You need to watch all the
time, for in three years it could all
change.
Imogen Matthews
IIn-Cosmetics Consultant
Oxford
UK
649-15_EA_BF_Connect_Mue 22.05.15 07:33 Seite 1
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COS1506_28_Pfeiffer_USA_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 22.05.15 09:18 Seite 28
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MARKETING REGULATIONS
US regulations for cosmetic products
Trouble free exporting

to the USA
Michael Pfeiffer and Melanie Cummings
from Pfeiffer Consulting explain the
challenges to consider before marketing
products from the EU to the US and what
pitfalls to avoid.
Differences in classification
Products that are categorized as
cosmetics in the EU may be subject to
other legal regulations in the USA. For
example, sunscreens, dandruff shampoo, antiperspirants, and fluoride
toothpaste are classified as OTC (over
photo: Matt Trott, Shutterstock.com
ith over 300 million inhabitants and US$58bn(1) (compared with Germanys approx. 80 million inhabitants and just
over 13bn(2), the US is one of the topselling cosmetic markets in the world.
Cosmetic products that are Made in
Germany are highly valued. Many German and European companies are successfully represented in the US market.
These companies profited from the increase in sales which amounted to
5.8% in 2014. For 2015, sales are expected to be characterised by a similar
increase. If exports to the US are to be
successful, it is vital to be well prepared. When legal requirements are
violated and mistakes are made, local
US authorities react. Such mistakes
can cause long waiting times for Customs clearance or even result in
mandatory destruction of products or
return of the delivery without compensation. This brief overview provides
regulatory background knowledge
based on our many years of experience
in supporting exporting companies at
a regulatory level.
The obstacles for an

EU company entering the
US market are manageable
the counter) drug products that is to

say they are available without prescription. Other product groups can fall under the category of medical devices.
Violations in this field can be punished
as a violation of the pharmaceutical
law in the US as well as in the EU
which entails serious consequences
for the company and its future entry
to the US market.
Identification and promised

effectiveness
Requirements for labelling do not
differ as much. Labelling, according to
EU standards, requires adaption to the
US regulations; for example, the net
quantity declaration (ml and fl. oz.)
also has to be positioned on the front
of the product covers. However, there
are differences in the interpretation of
claims that have to be carefully attended to, see table below. If you fail to take
these differences into account, it can
result in serious consequences.
Different interpretations of claims

Not allowed in US
Wrinkle reduction
Eliminates dandruff
Eliminates/reduces puffiness around
the eyes
28
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Allowed in US
Reduces appearance of wrinkles
Eliminates flaky scalp
Reduces appearance of puffiness
around the eyes
The use of ingredients

The US uses a negative list, not a
positive list like in the EU and some
other countries. The US allows the use
of chemical names or common names
if a US INCI name has not been assigned. The list below is not necessarily all inclusive, but is an example of
common cosmetic ingredients that
have different INCI names and/or labelling requirements in the EU. Restricted ingredients can be found in the
CIR compendium1. The CIR does not
review colourants. Regulatory information for colorants can be found in
21 CFR part 70 EU2.
Water
Aqua
Parfum
Fragrance
Beeswax
Cera Alba
Paraffinum Liquidum Mineral Oil
Most waxes (Carnauba, Candelilla, microcrystalline) use cera in the EU and
wax in the US.
Colourants are always listed last
(regardless of quantity used).
US INCI names have to be included
with the CI numbers.
As colourants allowed in the EU
may not be allowed in US cosmetics,
this is something that needs to be
checked carefully.
COS1506_28_Pfeiffer_USA_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 22.05.15 08:37 Seite 29
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REGULATION
California-specific regulations
The EU Cosmetic Directive 1223/
2009 is a standard Europe-wide regulation which does not apply to the US.
The regulations may differ from one individual state to the next. One example
is the so-called Prop. 65 (this is a clean
water initiative implemented years ago
with a list of ingredients that have been
grown to include CMR and which require a warning on the package) and
the California Safe Cosmetics Act
(which requires product registration if
a cosmetic contains ingredients that
meet the criteria on the published list)
in the US State of California. Prop. 65
Warnings in California are common
(they are printed on every bottle of
wine sold in the state), but the placement of such a warning on a cosmetic
product is avoided, in general3.
VOC 2013 research of CARB

The California Air Resources Board
(CARB)4 started a survey on all consumer products, including cosmetics.
This survey has been mandatory for
companies who sold cosmetic products in California in 2013 and 2014.
Deadline for submission was March 2,
2015. The purpose of the survey is to
determine whether there are products
on the market containing VOCs
(Volatile Organic Compounds) that
should be added to the list of regulated categories. Current cosmetic categories include hair styling products,
antiperspirants and deodorants, toners/astringents, and certain nail treatment products. These products require
a specific batch code structure printed
on the container (or notification to
CARB of the deviation).
Optional FDA(3)
registration yes or no?
Basically, approval or notification of
cosmetic products is not required in
the USA. However, it may be an advantage to submit an optional VCRP(4) with
the FDA(3). This does not constitute an
official approval, although it can have a
[ [
Berlin, y
German -7
r6
Oc tobe
2015
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
MARKETING
References:
1. German Trade & Invest
2. IKW
3. FDA: Food and Drug Administration
4. VCRP: Voluntary Cosmetic
Registration Program
positive effect on customs clearance,
on market entry, and on the related acceptance of products with the distributors. It is a good final check to confirm
that product ingredients are allowed in
a particular type of product. Unfortunately, registration is not permitted
until after a product is first sold in
the US.
Prerequisites
for marketing in the US
Compared to Europe, the procedure of distributing products in the US
is much easier. The basis for marketability in the USA is the verification
of the following aspects:
Is it a cosmetic product and not an
OTC product or a medical device?
Are the ingredients approved in general and with reference to the individual states (in particular California) and the related necessary warning notices or product registration?
Identification of primary and secondary packaging
Verification that colourants used in
cosmetic products are approved
Advertising claims
Products that meet all legal EU requirements dont usually have to be
modified, or only have to be slightly
modified according to US regulations.
The next step would be the above mentioned optional VCRP(4) registration
with the FDA(3).
www.gtai.de
www.ikw.org
www.fda.gov
www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/RegistrationProgram/
RegistrationHelp/default.htm
order to evaluate the individual risks
and to find the corresponding protection. There are expert attorneys in the
USA who can be consulted directly or
can be engaged by correspondence.
What costs are incurred?

It is difficult to calculate the exact
costs, as this depends on many individual factors. Basically, it can be assumed that the costs for the verification of the aspects mentioned, the
preparation of a statement and the
VCRP(4) registration can be approx. 40
to 60% lower than the costs common in
the EU for the preparation of a safety
assessment, a PIF (Product Information
File) and the notification.
The US market
a challenge?
The US is a very interesting market,
in particular with the current $/ exchange rate. The obstacles for an EU
company entering the market are manageable. There are very good marketing
possibilities for the appropriate products or product groups. However, without meeting the local legal requirements in the USA as well as in the EU
marketing attempts to market will
fail.
1
www.cir-safety.org/ingredients
www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CF
RSearch.cfm?CFRPart=70
3
http://oehha.ca.gov/prop65/prop65_list/Newlist.html
4
www.arb.ca.gov/consprod/regact/2013surv/2013main.
htm
2
Differences in product
liability
The US is known for many legal procedures in the field of product liability,
which are not easy to understand for
Europeans. It is recommended to get
legal advice from an expert attorney in
Melanie Cummings, Michael Pfeiffer

Pfeiffer Consulting LLC, Naples, FL. USA
mp-usa@pfeiffer-consulting.com
The International natural & organic

cosmetics market
Organizer:
Up to date:
Facts solutions perspectives
International Top-Experts
Consumer Insights
In Cooperation with:
German<> English simultaneous translation
www.vivaness.de
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
COSSMA 6 I 2015
29
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Star
Shampoo
of the Month
Customised + organic
Before getting started with selling
the first shampoos, the creators of the
project had to make major investments, and had to overcome regulatory
and bureaucratic hurdles. With the help
of further financial support generated
on Germanys biggest crowdfunding portal www.startnext.com/mixmyshampoo, the official launch is planned
AM
for summer 2015.
or people unhappy with the

cleansing properties or ingredients that do not match their individual type of hair, or people who can
neither make head nor tail of the small
print on shampoo labels, or simply
those who want more of a choice in the
field of organic shampoos; Lisa Sobotta and Markus Peetz have founded the
start-up company in Munich Mix MY
Shampoo.
The concept is based on creating a

customised plant-based vegan shampoo that caters to each customers hair
type and allows them to choose the
conditioning and fragrance ingredients. There is a choice of 50 organically grown and Ecocert certified ingredi-
ents. Thus, due to the 2bn+ shampoos

that can be created, the routine of
washing ones hair will never get boring. It took more than a year to develop
a shampoo formulation* with a plantbased sulfate-free surfactant.
The shampoo creation consists of
four different steps. First, there is a
choice of three basic formulations: one
for normal, one for greasy and one for
dry hair. Secondly, colour-supporting
ingredients can be chosen: walnut for
brown hair, camomille for blond hair
and henna for red hair. Then, the formulation is further refined with plant
oils and extracts as chosen by the customer. Finally, the customers favourite
fragrance is added.
photo: Willyam Bradberry, Shutterstock.com
This time our Star of the Month goes to the German start-up project
Mix MY Shampo. In a four-step process, customised organic vegan
shampoo with an individual choice of ingredients and fragrances
tailored to the needs of ones personal hair can be created.
*All the ingredients and fragrance ingredients used are

from certified organic cultivation. The formulations are
free from synthetic fragrances, colourants, preservatives,
mineral oils, parabens, silicones and PEGs. In addition,
the formulation is pH-neutral and is also vegan.
www.mixmyshampoo.de
More than 2 billion options of creating a personal shampoo that exactly meets the needs of
the individual type of hair,
with individually selected
ingredients and ones
favourite fragrance
NEWS 2015
PACKAGING
SKIN CARE
DECORATIVE COSMETIC
FULL SERVICE PRODUCTS
EYES | LIPS | FACE
HAND & NAIL
FULL SERVICE PRODUCTS
BRANDS & PRIVATE LABEL
g:
nishin
new fi s 3D
haptic
Nail Care Pen
innova tive
Co s m etic
Gm b H
bomo trendline
innovative Cosmetic GmbH
D-78664 Eschbronn
Fon +49 (0)7403 92246-0
www.bomo-trendline.de
COS1506_32_InCosmetic_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.15 08:38 Seite 32
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PRODUCTION
EVENTS
25th anniversary of In-Cosmetics
Selected launches
at a glance
This years In-Cosmetics Show in Barcelona (the 25th edition) was
characterized not only by the highest number of visitors outside
Paris, but also by an abundance of product launches. This is our
selection for you.
tion and gel clarity for styling products,
while also achieving a more natural
touch. The new Balance RCF polymer
provides good viscosity build with high
clarity in the presence of surfactants,
including sulfate-free systems.
Natural range of
sugar-based surfactants that provide
individual foam
structures from
fluffy to rich and
from light to caring
photo: Clariant
www.akzonobel.com
AK Personal Care launched

Lipex SheaClear, a completely
clear liquid shea oil that softens and moisturises the skin. It also
improves hair shine and softness. With
its high level of functional unsaponifiables, it helps revitalise the skin.
www.aakpersonalcare.com
Active Concepts has utilised the

natural power of bamboo to create
AC Kerazyme Protect, which is an active for the protection of hair and hair
colour fade. It maintains the hairs natural integrity and produces a sustainable new style.
www.activeconceptsllc.com
AkzoNobel presented their new

Biostyle hybrid polymers for hair vol-
ume boosting, along with better solu-
Alban Muller International presented

Cytokalmine ER, which is an anti-in-
flammatory solution for all ages and is

a 100% natural dry extract of pomegranate pericarp in a maltitol carrier. It
is highly concentrated in polyphenols
and titrated in punicalagin and ellagic
derivatives.
www.albanmuller.com
BASF presented Chione Celestial

Gold, which is a new generation of gold
synthetic mica that produces a pure

white gold shade and a shimmering
glow and shine in various cosmetics.
Emulgade Sucro Plus is a new completely natural-based emulsifier, which
has been approved by Cosmos and
Ecocert. The newly designed polymer
Cosmedia Ace answers to the need in
the personal care market for elegant
textures, versatility and cost-effectiveness. Dermawhite WF is a powerful inhibitor of melanin synthesis and is
based on extracts from papaya, guava
and saxifrage. Collrepair DG promises

to reverse 20 years of glycation in four
months. BASFs Trends & Textures Box
contains hairstyling formulations that
are tailored to current trends and consumer needs. Their Skin Care Polymers
Toolbox enables tailor-made solutions
for the skin care market. Pillow Talk is a
Downloads
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
sensory assessment method where

trained individuals compare how their
skin feels on the surfaces of different
pillows after applying a cream or emollient.
www.basf.com
Bayer presented a total of five new

sun care formulations based on Baycusan C 1000 and C 2000 under the
new Beauty made possible slogan.
www.materialscience.bayer.com
Berkem presented Berkemyol potentilla, which is an anti-aging active in-
gredient and a patented potentilla rhizome extract rich in stabilized polyphe-
cared for and healthy!
Your ideas, our know-how!

Your competent manufacturer for cosmetics & medical devices!
Full-Service Development Documentation Production Fill-up
Tubes Bottles Tins Jars Sachets Single-Pack Wet Wipes
www.bb-kalkar.de
COS1506_Cosmetic_Valley_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 27.05.15 09:38 Seite 1
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PRODUCTION
EVENTS
photo: Dow Corning
nols. It limits the damage caused by

free radicals thanks to antioxidant activity and, furthermore, maintains skin
structure by stimulating the synthesis
of collagens III, I and IV. Two new clinical studies have revealed anti-wrinkle
and anti-glycation activities.
www.berkem.com
Bicosome launched their Bicotene

Antiox UV and IR Protection Complex,
which is a biomimetic system that respects the physiology and the natural
processes of the skin. It modulates skin
barrier function and penetrates the
skin, consequently delivering molecules of interest to target layers.
www.bicosome.com
Clariants GlucoTain is a natural

range of sugar-based surfactants that
are available with four products that
provide good compatibility with other
ingredients. GlucoTain Clear is an EOfree and PEG-free option for light solubilizer for fragrances. Its light and fluffy
foam can be easily rinsed off and provides a squeaky-clean skin feel. GlucoTain Clean is a deep cleanser with a
creamy and fine foam that is suitable
for oily skin and, for example, facial
Taming frizzy, unruly hair with the help of a

blend of silicone technologies in waterbased leave-in products
cleansers. GlucoTain Care is the most

tender surfactant in the range. It is a
creamy foam, is easy to rinse off and
provides a moisturized after feel. GlucoTain Flex is a versatile solution with
a creamy foam which provides, for example, good colour protection. The
EO-free and sulfate-free ingredients
help formulators overcome the traditional trade-offs in developing innovative products and platforms that are
based on sulfate-free and EO-free
formulations.
www.clariant.com
DKSH and Tagra Biotechnologies

launched Tagras new encapsulated
pigments products CameleonCaps,
which are an extension of the current

TagraCaps range. They use Tagras
RND (Release On Demand) technology, which seals and protects each micro-capped ingredient from chemical
reactions like oxidation, degradation
and incompatibilities with other ingredients. The original shade is hidden
and pigments are disguised in the formulation, therefore maintaining both
appearance and texture.
www.dksh.de, www.tagra.com
Dow Corning introduced Dow Corning CB-3046 Fluid, which is a blend of
silicone technologies for water-based

leave-in hair products that tames frizzy,
unruly hair. Dow Corning 3901 Liquid
Satin Blend enables formulations that
not only deliver performance, but also
provide an exceptional sensory experience with a luxurious, satin-like feel.
www.dowcorning.com
DSMs concept Scalp & Care provides young males with a a hair styling
solution that also protects their scalp
from sun damage. The formulation,
which comes in a tube with an applicator, delivers the right quantity directly
to the dedicated area without compro-
COS1506_Urban_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:37 Seite 1
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PRODUCTION
EVENTS
mising hair style and leaves a dry touch

after-feel. DSMs Beauty Box Whats
your hair mood today? displays nine
different styling product formulations
using Tilamar Fix A140, together with
hairdresser tutorials and formulation
tips. An in vivo study for the Chinese
market confirmed that after just one
month, a formulation, containing 2.5%
of the peptide Syn-Coll, outperformed
a market benchmark in the fight
against lines and wrinkles. A recent
quantitative study, which was run by
DSM in major beauty markets, confirmed that the growing trend for radiant, glowing skin has a strong regional
nuance. This led to the development of
two day & night formulations for glowing skin.
tive texture, foam and rich sensory

effects into body washes and shampoos. They also launched a new selection tool for emulsifiers.
www.evonik.com
Gattefoss launched their age spot

corrector Gatuline Spot-Light, which
is a safe and natural solution for a
brighter skin complexion with less visible age spots.
www.gattefosse.com
Greentech presented Reverskin,
which is a skin volumator, smoothing

and global anti-ageing active that reverses the ageing of skin by speeding
up the creation and stabilization of the
dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), while
also stimulating the increase in major
skin key components like Collagens IV
and VII and Laminin 5. Aquasiloils are
natural hydrosoluble oils for skin care
with different properties. As part of the
range Sweet almond oil is suited to
shampoos with strong foaming and
cleansing properties; Inca Inchi is for
cleansing lotions, has no foaming effect and has a mild cleansing property;
while Argan is designed for leave-on
masks, does not foam and has low
cleansing properties.
www.dsm.com
Evonik presented Tego Betain P 50 C,

which is a cost-efficient, concentrated
Cocamidopropyl Betaine that is based
on RSPO certified palm kernel oil. It
provides superior thickening and can
reduce formulation costs. Tego Sulfosuccinate DO 75 helps to build innova-
photo: In-Cosmetics
www.greentech.fr
27% of the visitors were from

the host country, Spain
Indena presented Quercevita, which

is a novel Phytosome formulation of
quercetin with sunflower lipids. It has
been clinically tested in vitro and in vivo and validated for its soothing properties on various skin challenges.
www.indena.com
Kemin Industries presented MicroCurb OC (INCI: Caprylic Acid (and)
Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract), an oil-
soluble bioactive that is derived from

oregano leaves with broad spectrum
preservative properties, and is effective
against bacteria (gram+/-), yeast and
mold.
www.kemin.com
Lehmann & Voss presented Doosans active ingredients that are based
on Ceramide NP DS-HydroCeramide
50S that obtains good bioavailability
in the product due to the fact that it is

a water-dispersible skin identical active ingredient. With the help of this
active ingredient that is produced with
the Solid-Lipid-Particle-Technology,
and which conforms to the NaTrue
standards, stable creams, lotions and
tonics can be formulated without causing recrystalisation in the product.
www.lehvoss.de
Lipoid Kosmetik presented the natural anti-dandruff active usNeo, which

is derived from the lichen usnea barbata; the multilamellar cream SLM 2038
with non-GMO sunflower phospholipids; and LC Herbasol, which is a
new series of standardized botanical
extracts.
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
Lipotec introduced their marine ingredient Eyedeline, which is a new

biotechnological active that tackles
the three main problems of the eye
area simultaneously: eyebags, dark circles and wrinkles, see COSSMA 5/2015,
p. 14. The marine ingredient Brightlette
is a brightening active that evens out
the skin tone for a fair and radiant complexion. The substance regulates gene
expression of melanogenic signalling
proteins in order to decrease the
COS1506_37_bbmed_COS1406_bbmed_D 22.05.15 09:06 Seite 37
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ADVERTORIAL
SUPPLIER CHECK
BB MED. PRODUCT GMBH

Mr. Robert Beinio
Managing Director/Product Development
Mr. Patrick de Vries
Sales Director/Sales Germany
Mrs. Susann Deipenbrock
Export/Direct Sales Brands beinio
Mrs. Jennifer Nellessen
Product Management/Sales Germany
s What advantages do your products/

services offer?
We accompany you all the way, from creative
brainstorming to product development right
through to the launch of your product on the
market. We will always respect your wishes,
both legal and commercial. Since we are
based in Germany, we can also offer you
a clear and respected sign of quality
Made in Germany!
Minium quantity is 5,000 units. Manufacturing of bulk product is carried out by us in

modern homogenisers with capacities from
300 kg to 2,000 kg. For launching your products in small or test batches, we operate a
small 15 kg unit.
s What is the philosophy behind your

company?
bb med. product GmbH is a medium-sized,
second-generation family enterprise, which,
since 1976, has offered you the flexibility and
experience that your ideas are looking for.
Partnership-based cooperation with mutual
trust forms the basis for successful implementation of your projects.
s In
which areas is your company

particularly well experienced, where
is your specific know-how?
We specialise as a single source supplier.
Product development, contract manufacturing and packaging of skin care cosmetics
and medical devices as a full service operation guaranteed safety, a rapid response time
and flexible production schedules. We are also happy to take on board partial sections of
your overall project, such as bulk manufacture, or filling your formulations. Of course, we
also support pre- and post-processing.
Points to note about bb med.

product GmbH as a partner:
s Full service
s Your idea our know-how
s Qualified employees
s Private label & own-brand
concepts
s Standard formulations &
new developments
s Versatile filling lines & machinery
plus flexo printing for foils
s Documentation
s Member of IKW & BDIH
s Made in Germany, EU-compliant
s Certified to EN ISO 9001 & 13485
Contact:
bb med. product GmbH
+49 2824 2083-0
www.bb-kalkar.de
info@bb-kalkar.de
Mr. Robert Beinio Managing
Director/Product Development
Mr. Patrick de Vries
Sales Director/Sales Germany
Mrs. Susann Deipenbrock Export/
Direct Sales Brands beinio
Mrs. Jennifer Nellessen
Product Management/Sales
Germany
Location:
management, production and logistics
all in one location: 47546 Kalkar
in the lower rhine province, Germany
s What
specific solutions does your

company offer to the manufacturing
cosmetics industry?
We are the manufacturing cosmetics
industry! We offer you filling lines and machinery for tubes, bottles, cans, jars, sachets
and single-pack wet wipes with our own flexo
print line for the foils.
Products / brands:
skin care cosmetics, conventional and
natural cosmetics, medical devices,
creams, lotions, gels, sachets,
single-pack wet wipes, private label,
filling services, umbrella brand beinio
COSSMA SUPPLIER CHECK
WWW.COSSMA.COM
37
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
EVENTS
formation and maturation of melanosomes, reduces tyrosinase levels

and activity, and diminishes melanin
uptake by keratinocytes. At the same
time, it induces the expression of
genes involved in DNA repair, which is
necessary due to the loss of UV-protective pigment.
Sharon Laboratories presented

SharoMax, which are a new line of pre-
tivity in most leave-on and rinse-off

products.
servative blends and are 100% Phenoxyethanol-free, as a result of using

Phenylpropanol as the pillar ingredient. The liquid blends have proven ac-
www.sharon-labs.com
which is a highly efficacious preservation blend of several non-traditional

ingredients. ReGeniStem Brightening
is a meristem-based, oil-soluble active
that is designed to visibly brighten
skin. Niacinamide USP PC is a multibenefit active that evens tone and enhances the appearance of the skin.
Polyaldo polyglyceryl esters are natural
emulsifiers for enhanced formulation
viscosity.
www.lonza.com
Plant Advanced Technologies presented their PAT plant milking technology, which enables the industrial production of rare natural ingredients
from roots, while preserving botanical
resources. They produce customized
Exudactive plant extracts for cosmetic
brands.
This years show saw a record 8,578 unique visitors the highest number for any event
outside of Paris and an 18% increase on last years show in Hamburg. Spanish visitors accounted for 27 per cent of the total visitors. From the 710 exhibitors from around the world,
105 companies exhibited for the first time. This years Market Focus was dedicated to the
second fastest growing beauty and personal care market, Turkey and the Middle East. The
Turkey & Middle East Product Trail provided visitors with a guide to new products inspired
by, or sourced from, the region. The show also saw more than 150 visitors from Turkey
attend the exhibition a 28% increase on 2014.
Awards in abundance
For this years Awards Ceremony a special award was introduced as part of the shows
25th anniversary celebrations. The 25 Years of Innovation Award was presented to Sederma,
recognising Matrixyl as the ingredient which has had the greatest impact on the personal
care ingredients industry over the past quarter of a century.
For the first time, the shows Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award was split into two categories, with Induchem receiving gold in the Active category for its Brightenyl product, which is
a first generation active ingredient that is designed to be activated, upon application, by
the skin microbiote. Dow Corning was awarded gold in the Functional category for 3901 Liquid
Satin Blend, which is a fluid that creates a long-lasting feel of lubricity, while delivering a
stringy yet novel structure. The Green Ingredient Award, in association with Organic Monitor,
was given to Laboratoires Expanscience for Aqualicia, which is a natural 3-in-1 active ingredient that traps, distributes and limits water loss of the skin.
The winners of the Beiersdorf Innovation Pitch were also announced with Azelis, Silab and
Symrise all given the opportunity to market their innovations with Beiersdorf.
www.plantadvanced.com
zellaerosol
since 50 Years specialised in the
Development Manufacture Filling Packing of
Aerosols and Liquid Products

Certified to ISO 9001 and ISO 13485
Licenced for pharmaceutical manufacturing operations in accordance with 13 of the german
drug act for human and veterinary medication
Production and filling of pharmaceutical, medical,
cosmetic, household and technical products in
accordance with prevailing ATEX directive
Planning, execution and documentation of clientexclusive development projects
Consultancy and collaboration with clients in
compiling product data as required for the
Cosmetics Directive, Technical Files, and for
pharmaceutical approvals
Full service management and completion of client
contracts from A to Z.
. . . and lots more!
zellaerosol
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstrae 13
D-79669 Zell im Wiesental
Tel.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 0
Fax.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 14
and ner
ng part
o
r
e
t
a s eliabl
r
info@zellaerosol.de
www.zellaerosol.de
In-Cosmetics Paris 2016 takes place from the

12-14 April 2016, www.in-cosmetics.com
Additional information can be found on the Internet
see Internet panel
In-Cosmetics 2015 at a glance
www.lipotec.com
Lonza presented Geogard LSA,
AM
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COS1506_40_BASF_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 22.05.15 08:41 Seite 40
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
Anti-ageing active ingredients for
Skin rejuvenation
The latest anti-ageing active ingredients by BASF recover skin firmness,
smooth the skin surface and enhance the skin complexion, therefore allowing
manufacturers in the personal care market to create cosmetic products that
meet the innermost consumer needs.
photos: BASF
Anti-ageing active that reverses 20 years

of glycation in four months
In whitening face care creams the new

ingredient helps lighten the complexion
after two weeks of use
he new active ingredient Collrepair DG (in cosmetics for the first

time) is able to reverse the consequences of glycation: the synergistic
complex breaks AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products) and skin fibres
regain their flexibility and functionality. As a result, after four months of

use, skin yellowing is reversed and
skin firmness is recovered, therefore
achieving a younger look.
Based on extracts from papaya,
guava and saxifrage, the new active ingredient Dermawhite WF caters to the
desire of women all over the world for a
brighter complexion: In vitro, the active ingredient inhibits the melanin
synthesis by 90 percent. Thus, it has an
effect three times higher than that of
kojic acid. Furthermore, it delivers in
vivo a fast and significant skin brightening action. In applications, such as
whitening body or face care creams
and lotions as well as anti-spots repairing sun care treatments, this ingredient helps lighten the complexion
after two weeks of use.
Epigenist is able to boost neurogenesis in the epidermis, reversing the
natural degradation of nerve fibres. Extracted from the African bambara pea
(voandzeia subterranea), the active ingredient rejuvenates the skin: proliferation, differentiation and cell life of
keratinocytes are improved and prolonged. The epidermis improves organization and visibly increases in
thickness. After eight weeks with this
active ingredient (compared to a placebo) wrinkles are reduced, the skin sur-
face is smoothed and skin complexion

is enhanced.
With age, the epidermis loses its integrity and structure, which causes
blemishes that appear on its surface.
The integrity of the epidermis can be restored, if keratinocytes in the epidermis
are enabled to differentiate in an optimal way. Indispensable to the differentiation of keratinocytes is LOX (lysyl oxidase), a key protein that decreases
with age. The new skin relief perfector
Lox-Age is capable of restoring the expression of LOX to a similar level as
that of young skin. An extract of chicory
(cichorium intybus) leaves stimulates
LOX and promotes improvement of the
layers of the epidermis and its integrity
by virtue of the differentiation marker
transglutaminase 1 (TG1) and desmocollin 1 (DSC1) a marker of cell cohesion without targeting cell proliferation. This active ingredient also participates in the functionalization of
collagen 1, improving the density of the
skin that appears more moisturized.
With a clinical efficacy similar to
Retinol, this ingredient contributes to
the restoration of a youthful skin appearance. It causes skin blemishes to
fade significantly. The skin appears revitalized and free from the most visible
signs of skin ageing.
Florence Trombini
Marketing Manager
BASF Beauty Care Solutions
Le Vallois, France
www.personal-care.basf.com
www.carecreations.basf.com
VON DER
REZEPTUR BIS
ZUM PRODUKT
Die ganzheitliche Softwarelsung
fr die Kosmetikindustrie
Mit COSMEDOS, COSLAB und COSREWIS bieten

wir umfassende Assistenzsoftware fr Erstellung,
Erprobung und Verwaltung von Rezepturen sowie
die chargenorientierte Produktion.
www.klar-partner.de
COS1506_41_Beauty_China_COS1402_40_ADV_Incos_D_GB 22.05.15 08:42 Seite 41
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ADVERTISEMENT
EVENTS
China Beauty Expo 2015 bursting with activities

China Beauty Expo (CBE), Asias largest beauty trade show,
commemorated its 20th anniversary at the Shanghai New International Expo Center from 1921 May 2015. The 20th edition
welcomed exhibitors showcasing over 3,000 brands, and visitors
from all over the world.
A market with immense potential,

China has over 1 billion consumers.
According to iResearch, Chinas cosmetics retail market was RMB404.4 billion (approximately USD65 billion) in
2014. The growth rate is expected to remain above 20% for the next five (5)
years and forecast to be worth more
than RMB700 billion in 2017. It is definitely a market to be part of, for manufacturers and brands who want to
extend their reach.
CBE 2015 hosted 2,000 exhibitors
and more than 7,000 booths, over
150,000 sqm of exhibition space.
With the participation of numerous
renowned international brands such as
Alban Muller (France), Fiabila (France),
LORAL (France), Syneron (Israel), Venus Concept (Israel), Intercos (Italy),
COSMAX (Korea), Kolmar (Korea), LG
(Korea), SYMRISE (Germany) and P&G
(USA), CBE is the ideal platform for
cosmetics manufacturers, brands and
agents to penetrate the Chinese and
Asian markets.
The beauty industrys distribution
channels are constantly developing. To
keep abreast the constant evolution,
CBE 2015 was the gathering point for
250,000 trade visitors, hailing from
all networks, including department
stores, shopping malls, supermarkets,
specialty and chain stores, e-commerce and mobile commerce. With a
range of show features and activities,
CBE 2015 aim to provide insight, as
well as networking opportunities to
meet the needs of manufacturers,
brand owners and retailers.
2016 Country of Honor

Republic of Korea
CBE is pleased to announce the appointment of the Republic of Korea as
the Country of Honor for 2016. The appointment further cements the ongoing
collaboration between CBE and South
Korea. In 2016, visitors can enjoy the Korean experience at China Beauty Expo.
For the 15th year, South Korea formed
the biggest proportion of international
exhibitors participating in CBE. More
than 120 South Korean exhibitors use
CBE as an international platform to
showcase the latest and best of Koreas
beauty products and services.
2,000 exhibitors and more than 7,000 booths,

over 150,000 sqm of exhibition space
Cosmetics Retail Summit

The 5th China Cosmetics Retail
Summit was held at the Shanghai
International Convention Center on
18 May 2015. About 1,000 cosmetics
chain store owners, agents, management from supermarkets and department stores as well as the media, gathered to discuss the hot topics in Chinas cosmetics industry, then industrys
upcoming trends, as well as seek solutions to retailers operations issues.
The theme for this edition was Re-designing the Retail Ecosystem.
photos: China Beauty Week
THE gateway to China

and Asian markets
Insight and networking opportunities to meet the

needs of manufacturers, brand owners and retailers
Asian Brand Building Lab

Asian features and beauty needs
are very specific. As such, it is critical to
not just directly apply Western trends.
New at CBE 2015 was the Asian Brand
Building Lab (ABBL) a unique space
dedicated to reinventing and consultation for Asian beauty brands. Partnering Centdegres, an independent creative agency with over 30 years of international and local expertise in the
beauty industry, ABBL offered possibilities and opportunities for Asian beauty brands to stand out from the crowd
by getting ideas and advice on image
creation, advertisement positioning
and retail strategies on WeChat, from
the worlds top designers, alongside
international brands.
Beyond Beauty Trends

In conjunction with the newlylaunched ABBL, CBE welcomed a selection of international speakers to
lead the first edition of CBE Beyond
Beauty Trends 2015, a conference program specially designed to showcase
upcoming global beauty trends. The
exciting lineup of speakers included
Beautystreams (USA), Firmenich
(Switzerland), Mintel (USA), Pochet
(France) and FACO (China). Topics on
the latest trends in the beauty and
packaging industry, R&D, packaging
materials, design, law and regulations
will be explored.
http://chinabeautyexpo.informaexhibitions.com
COSSMA 6 I 2015
41
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
cytes. Moreover, phytic acid, due to its

strong impact on oxidative processes,
was demonstrated to protect human
keratinocytes against the damaging effects of UV radiation in vivo7. Now,
adopting the ancient Asian skin care
concept, based on rice bran, and combining it with decades of experience in
raw material development and cosmetic
formulation, resulted in the launch of
Dermofeel Enlight* a new 100% naturally-derived whitening agent.
The whitening product blend can be
used in a variety of natural, as well as
conventional, skin care product concepts for the treatment of age spots, in
skin lightening products, or to balance
out an uneven skin tone. In addition,
this active ingredient offers good
skin compatibility and, due to its
Whitening
An effective and
natural blend
The new, naturally-derived, whitening blend Dermofeel Enlight from Dr.
Straetmans combines the antioxidant and whitening properties of sustainably
gained rice bran with the multiple bioactive substances of the natural extract
from white mulberry. The active ingredient showed a significant whitening
effect on age spots.
Phytic acid and its salt sodium phytate have been reported to stimulate the
naturally-occurring exfoliation (skin
peeling) of the present hyperpigmented
corneocytes on the skin surface4, as well
as to reduce the melanin synthesis in
the newly emerging epidermis cells
(through the inhibition of the tyrosinase
enzyme activity5). This natural skin peeling process is assumed to be promoted
in parts by the chelation and inactivation of calcium ions, which are involved
in the cohesion of the stratum corneum
cells by proteins. This was reported to
have a mild effect on the cell-cell adhesions6, thereby accelerating the natural
exfoliation and cell renewal of the superficial layer of melanin-filled corneo-
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User name: cossma6
Password: hair
photos: Reika, Iurii Kachkovskyi, Shutterstock.com
or many centuries, and in many

different cultures, a more uniform skin tone without local irregularities in melanin distribution
has been a concept of ideal beauty.
Cosmetic treatments of the skin are
not a modern phenomenon they
were already performed in third century Japan, where women used cloth bags
containing rice bran to polish and
whiten their skin2. Even in rural Japan,
female rice farmers used the remaining
water from washing the rice (called YuSu-Ru) for washing their hair3 and skin.
Today we know that a major bioactive
substance responsible for this reported whitening effect of rice bran is
phytic acid.
Naturally-derived whitening blend that combines the antioxidant and whitening properties of
rice bran with the multiple bioactive substances of the natural extract from white mulberry
42
COSSMA 6 I 2015
biodegradability, can be considered

environmentally friendly.
It combines the well-described antioxidant and whitening properties of
the single rice bran ingredient sodium
phytate with the multiple bioactive
substances of the natural extract from
white mulberry (Morus alba L.) fruits.
Both the rice bran, as well as the fruits
from the white mulberry tree, are
gained from sustainable sources. As
the rice bran is a by-product in the
milling process of the food industry
and is normally discarded as waste or is
used in animal feed, the production of
sodium phytate gives it a higher value.
The white mulberry tree offers a
multitude of functions and has been
cultivated for over 4,000 years because
of its leaves used for the silkworm cultivation. In the ripening process the
colour of the fruits changes from white
to purple-red. This is a transformation
in colour which, according to an ancient legend, is the result of the tragic
death under a tree of two lovers, Pyramus and Thisbe, whose fate served
Shakespeare later as a source of inspiration for Romeo and Juliet. The fruits
comprise a multitude of bioactive substances with beneficial characteristics,
such as antioxidant and whitening
properties (tyrosinase inhibition),
such as stilbenoids, e.g. Piceid8, 9,
COS1506_42_Straetmans_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 22.05.15 08:43 Seite 43
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anthocyanins, e.g. Cyanidin 3-glucoside10, 11, and flavonoids, e.g. Rutin

(Quercetin-3-O-rutinoside)12, 13.
What to keep in mind

in the formulation process
Dermofeel Enlight is a water soluble
liquid without any listed preservatives
(EU cosmetic regulation). It has a
low pH of around 3.0 and, therefore,
should be incorporated into formulations before the final pH-adjustment.
For optimal efficacy, 2% should be incorporated into formulations with a pH
between 4.0 and 5.5. In addition, the
sodium phytate of this active ingredient stabilises cosmetic formulations
via the chelation of heavy metal ions,
which in formulations promote oxidation reactions of, for example, unsaturated oils. Furthermore, it is advisable
to add the active ingredient in emulsions after they have been homogenised and at a temperature
< 40C. The product should be added
in small portions under constant
stirring in order to avoid a locally
restricted reduction of the pH.
The active ingredient is compatible
with a wide range of UV-Filters, gelling
agents, oils, emollients, emulsifiers
and other whitening agents. There may
be incompatibilities with divalent
ions due to complexation and various electrolyte-sensitive materials and
acrylate thickeners.
Proven whitening effect

In a randomized in-vivo-doubleblind study conducted by an independent research institute, the active ingre-
active formulation with 2% Dermofeel Enlight
placebo formulation
Significant whitening effect on age spots with 2% of the active ingredient

Increased mean ITA value: ITA values (ITA = {Arc.tang. [(L*-50) / b*]} x 180 / ) inversely
correlated to the pigmentation intensity the higher the values, the clearer the color (left)
Changes in pigmentation intensity of age spots clearly visible on digital images
(right)
dient resulted in a significant whitening effect of age spots in comparison to

a placebo formulation. Twenty women
at the age of 40 to 70 years were asked
to apply a hydrogel formulation containing 2% of this ingredient (L070-2.61014) and a placebo formulation
(L070-2.7-1014) twice a day over a
course of 8 weeks on age spots on the
face or hands. In order to evaluate the
product efficacy, pigmentation intensity parameters L* (luminosity, black to
white color) and b* (yellow to blue color) were measured with the Minolta
chromameter CR-400 at the beginning
and end of the 8 weeks of treatment.
Then the individual topological angle
(ITA value) was calculated, which expresses the melanin index and is inversely correlated to the pigmentation
intensity. An increase of the ITA value
indicates a decrease in skin pigmentation. For visual representation, digital
images of the selected dark spots were
taken before and after the treatment.
In contrast to the placebo formulation, a highly significant increase of the
Disturbed melanin synthesis

Melanin is a pigment common to a variety of animals, plants and microorganisms. In
humans, it resides in the skin, the hair and the iris and retina of the eye. Melanin provides
the skin with its colour and protects it against the damaging effects of UV sun radiation.
In the skin, it is produced in the melanocytes of the epidermis. An enzyme called tyrosinase catalyzes the first two, rate-limiting steps of the melanin synthesis starting with the amino acid
tyrosine. The melanocytes possess dendrites (protuberances of the cell) through which the
melanin is transported to the neighbouring keratinocyte cells. The epidermis is constantly
renewed from its basis by the migration of the keratinocytes, together with the melanin,
to the outer cell layers, where the keratinocytes lose their nucleus and become lifeless
corneocytes in the horny layer.
However, in some cases the regular melanin synthesis is disturbed, causing irregularities
in the melanin skin distribution. Possible phenotypic outcomes are an uneven skin tone and
local hyperpigmentations caused by an increased melanin production in the form of birthmarks, freckles, age spots, melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentations. Causes
for this increased local melanin synthesis may be excessive sun exposure, hormonal changes
during pregnancy or due to oral contraceptives, and skin inflammations. The relevance of
cosmetic products minimizing these local irregularities in the epidermis lies in the perception of consumers and their desire for a more regular skin tone, which was also shown to
be perceived as a sign of ageing1.
mean ITA value of around a quarter

(25.6%, Figure a) was detected. ITA
values (ITA = {Arc.tang. [(L*-50) / b*]}
x 180/) are inversely correlated to pigmentation intensity the higher the
values, the clearer the color. Also, the
skin luminosity (L*) value was significantly increased after 8 weeks of treatment with the active formulation.
This improvement of the two sensible indexes of pigmentation intensity
was clearly visible to the naked eye and
on digital images of the skin (see Figure b). Changes in pigmentation intensity of age spots (treated with the active formulation) were visualized with
the help of Fotofinder Dermoscope Ver.
2.0 in their natural real colors and converted into monochromatic images by
means of a UV Scan software module.
Regarding the skin compatibility of the
active ingredient, no skin irritations
were observed. In our application technology laboratory, a variety of stable,
natural and conventional skin care formulations containing this active ingredient were developed, such as Anti-Aging Spot Caring Mask, Natural Anti-Aging Spot Serum, First Aid Hand Cream
for dry Skin and Age Spot Correcting
Hand Milk.
*INCI: Aqua; Sodium Phytate; Glycerin; Morus Alba Fruit
Extract
The reference list as well as formulations can be found
on the Internet see Internet panel
Dr. Alexander Thiemann

Manager Scientific Affairs
Sabrina Grne
Formulation and Technology
Manuela Salmina-Petersen
Head of Formulation and Technology
Dr. Jan Jnichen
Managing Director, Dr. Straetmans
Hamburg, Germany
info@dr-straetmans.de, www.dr-straetmans.de
COSSMA 6 I 2015
43
COS1506_44_Flacons_COS1406_32_Stoelzle_GB 22.05.15 08:44 Seite 44
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Containers and more
Matches the high ethical

standards of the brand
or this years DuPont Awards for

Packaging Innovation, an independent panel of packaging experts evaluated nearly 140 entries from
more than 25 countries and awarded
one diamond winner, five gold winners
and seven silver winners based on excellence in one, two or all three categories: technological advancement, responsible packaging and enhanced
user experience.
The winners in the field of cosmetics and toiletries included the mascara
tube from the Korean company
AmorePacific as a gold winner. The
squeezable mascara tube eliminates
consumer frustrations with inconsistent delivery, dried out products and
the inability to extract mascara from

the tube. This tube is the first matte silicone mascara tube in the world. A hybrid package made of a silicone tube
with an aluminum laminated inner
pouch, the tube looks like a traditional
mascara tube at first glance. However,
the disadvantage of a traditional mascara tube is that the high viscosity
mascara tends to accumulate along
the inner wall, becoming unreachable
or dried out. The squeezable mascara
tube allows users to soften, reposition
the remaining mascara, and transfer
it to the applicator with just a light
squeeze of the tube. This enables a
consistent amount of mascara to be
delivered every time. Due to these enhanced functionalities, the squeezable
tube helps to reduce the amount of unusable mascara that remains in the
tube, while also extending the useful
life of the mascara and providing a
unique tactile sensation.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7lXlt3kH5c
Another gold winner was Unilevers

aerosol deodorant can for Axe and
Lynx. The aluminum cans feature a
squround (half square, half round)
shape which delivers a unique look,
while accommodating the industry
standard 1 inch valve. The square body
rotates to reveal the valve and trigger
button, allowing consumers to experi-
to:
o
ph
iST
Mi
SI
photo: AmorePacific
COSSMA 6 I 2015
photo: Godrej
Squeezable mascara tube helps

to reduce the
amount of unusable mascara
44
na
photo: Unilever
tio
rna
nte
Unique square-to-round
shape of the containers
The only flat, travel-size spray

bottles in the market
The highly viscous

conditioner in a
squeezable bottle
with high wall
thickness
ence the same twist-open action of the

previous cans. As the body rotates, the
button emerges from the flat top and
tilts to provide a pleasing opening experience. To eliminate leakage or accidental activation, the spray channel is
designed to engage with the valve only
when in the open position. When the
valve is closed, the spray channel separates from the valve completely. The
button designed using insights gath-
photo: RPC
photo: Dieter Bakic
Award winning packs and the latest launches that show inspiring ideas which
can make new product development so much more exciting.
Double-walled design that maximises

the jars on-shelf impact
ered from consumer studies activates, regardless of how the consumer

holds the can or where they press on
the button.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_xIDIO_oho
Another gold winning piece of packaging was the new ultra slim spray bottles HotPot Design from MiiSTS Intl.
These sprays are the only flat, travelsize bottles in the market and can be
used for mouthwash, hand sanitizer,
insect repellent, sunscreen spray or
hair spray and can be squeezed in the
pocket of a jeans. The MiiSTS bottle
has the rough dimensions of a credit
card and is just 5mm thick at its
thinnest point. It is fitted with a pump
housing that allows consumers to
spray the product while keeping the
packaging leak-proof. The precise engineering of the tight welds on the very
thin corners of the injection-molded,
polypropylene bottle gives an appealing, smooth and virtually seamless
finish. Each bottle contains approximately 11ml, which equates to about
150 sprays.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TG5R9P3hCA
Godrej Consumer Products partnered with BBLunt (a premium Indian

salon chain) on the development of
their first hair care product line. The
COS1506_44_Flacons_COS1406_32_Stoelzle_GB 22.05.15 08:45 Seite 45
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING
Jean & Len (a purely vegan body,

hair and face care brand) offers products composed of select ingredients.
The packaging for both the care and
childrens line is designed with a high
attention to detail and personal
quotes. In cooperation with Dieter

Bakic Enterprises, the 200 ml Aurelie
bottle (with its soft organic contours)
was selected as the primary packaging.
VariBlends 30mm PET bottle is
designed for on-the-go beauty and
healthcare products, especially those
in the booming global skin care market. The bottle, which is made by Sonoco, integrates seamlessly with the VariBlend 40mm dispenser and incorporates a new, secure locking design for
optimal product integrity, which is particularly appealing with packaging that
has no wrap-around label.
ESI SpA has selected the Empress
thick-walled crme jar from RPC Bram-
lage for its Aloedermal anti-ageing

cream, as it combines a luxury image
with the practical lightweight and shatterproof advantages of plastics. The injection-moulded jar features an inner
layer in blue polypropylene and a
transparent outer layer in SAN. This
double-walled design helps to maximise the jars quality positioning and
on-shelf impact.
With M&Hs new Tall Squares and
Rectangulars, products literally stand
out from the crowd. The crisp lines, selection of sizes and generous decoration areas makes these new packs suitable for a wide range of products. AM
photo: M&H
www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhYQAWqsk8k
photo: VariBlend
highly viscous BBLunt conditioners (for

superior product performance) are difficult to dispense from bottles made of
regular polymers. Therefore, polyethylene copolymer with the lowest modulus was chosen for the bottles, a silver
winning piece of packaging, in order to
provide great squeezability, even at
high wall thickness. However, the polyethylene copolymer made the surface
dull and prone to scratching. Godrej
found that a thin layer of DuPont Surlyn
resin delivered good surface gloss,
scratch resistance and a rich feel. Processing the two polymers without a tie
layer was a challenge, as the difference
in material rheology caused variations
in wall thickness, parison sagging and
improper blowing. Extensive trials
were conducted with Classy Kontainers
in order to stabilize the process and get
consistent output.
Six-position,
custom-blending dispenser
design
PRODUCTION
Square bottles stand out from the crowd
COS1506_46_Beauty_Paris_COS1402_40_ADV_Incos_D_GB 22.05.15 08:46 Seite 46
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
ADVERTISEMENT
BEYOND BEAUTY PARIS

the future has arrived
Boosted by new dynamics and updated teams, the international Beyond Beauty
Paris trade exhibition will take center stage from 15 to 17 September 2015 at
Porte de Versailles in Paris. For the 13th annual edition, the event will go back to
its roots, reasserting its position as the only platform for the future of beauty.
ow more than ever, Beyond

Beauty Paris looks towards the
future and to what it has in
store: whats at stake, and the challenges to overcome. Driven by the
know-how of Informa Group, the third
7300 visitors from 90 countries attended BEYOND

BEAUTY Paris in 2014
photos: Beyond Beauty Paris
Beauty Challenger Awards: A jury designates the most

promising beauty brands
Visitors will exchange ideas about the future of beauty
46
COSSMA 6 I 2015
largest event organizer in the world,

Beyond Beauty Paris will go the distance in beauty concepts and the creation of the future of beauty. In 2015,
3 themes will be proposed: SKINCARE,
PERFUME, and TRENDS, approached
through an expert conferences program, thematic exhibition areas, two
unique competitions and a selection of
exhibitors with innovative products
and services.
As part of the shows on-site features, we can mention:
Beyond Beauty Talks: a brand new
conference programme acting as a
true think tank to exchange ideas
about the future of beauty through
3 different formats round tables,
conferences and masterclasses.
Beyond Beauty Fragrance: creation
of a space for expression of the perfumery and its industry from
the supply chain (packaging, glass,
pump) to finished products (perfume brands and accessories),
alongside a special focus on fine
perfumery
Beyond Beauty Trends: exhibition
space dedicated to trends and design agencies, honouring creation
and innovation
Beauty Challenger Awards: for the
past 10 years, a jury made up of key
players from international distribution, trade and consumer press
(QVC, BEAUTE PRIVE, GALERIES
LAFAYETTE, etc.) designates the
most promising beauty brands from
40 candidates in 4 categories Skincare, Makeup, Fragrance and Natural
& Organic.
Advanced Ingredient Award rewards
the most innovative skincare ingredient on the theme Skin & Environmental Factors. This year, the jury
is composed of Marketing and
R&D managers from
YVES ROCHER, SOTHYS, CLARINS,

LVMH, CHANEL
alongside the renowned ZOOM
the hub for emerging brands and
the Beyond Beauty Lab, bringing togethersuppliers of ingredients. Being one of the only exhibitions in the
beauty industry with a 360 perspective in Europe, it is an industry event
for the month of September, reinforcing its position as a future trendspotter and forecaster.
Beyond Beauty Paris puts

Perfumery in the spotlight
According to journalist Anne- Laurence Gollion, for The New Economist,
Bigger brands are not innovating, it is
the niche perfumers that deal with new
territories with confidence. It is for
this reason that, in 2015, Beyond Beauty Paris has decided to give an exclusive voice to the exceptional world of
perfume. Claudia Bonfiglioli, International Director of the beauty division at
Informa Group comments, Paris is the
capital of perfume. The culture of perfumery la franaise is celebrated
worldwide and we want to give acclaim
to the perfumery industry, its creation,
and the master perfumers. In this
purpose, we will present a dedicated
exhibition area called Beyond Beauty
Fragrance.
Beyond Beauty Paris, the exhibition for expert skincare

Beyond Beauty Paris will be focused
on the skincare sector, playing host to
several related activities in the presence of experts,renowned brands and
exhibitors at the forefront of innovation. Innovative solutions in the skincare sector will be presented by exhibitors such as CAPSUM, ALPOL
SEPPIC, AGRIMER, TECHNATURE,
LESSONIA, OCEALYS, ROSSOW,
SICAF, PRODHYG and LIPOID ... and
other emerging brands and future stars
of the global market such as
FONTENELLES, ADEN, SAROME
COSMETICS, CASTLE BERGER, KOKWAI, DR NOORA and WELLMAXX...
COS1506_47_Beauty_Asia_COS1402_40_ADV_Incos_D_GB 22.05.15 08:46 Seite 47
www.cossma.com
ADVERTISEMENT
EVENTS
Beyond Beauty ASEANBangkok - 2nd edition

Beyond Beauty ASEAN-Bangkok 2015 (BBAB 2015) is pleased to
announce the launch of 2 new activities, to facilitate effective
networking Hosted VIP Buyers Program; and the Beyond Beauty
Award to recognize and celebrate outstanding achievements in the
respective categories.
Beyond Beauty Award
The inaugural Beyond Beauty Award
is conceived as an effort to recognize
outstanding beauty products, and is
made up of two (2) segments the
Thailand Cosmetics Awards and the
ASEAN Cosmetics Awards. The advisory committee and awards judging panel includes the Federation of Thai Industries, ASEAN Cosmetics Association and Thai Cosmetics Manufacturer
Association, as well as Hello, Lisa and
Prestige publications. The awards judging panel will contribute 40% to the
winning vote, while the remaining 60%
vote will be cast by BBABs visitors.
Hosted VIP Buyers Program

Created specifically to facilitate
business matching at the show, the
Hosted Buyers Program is an effective
platform for top quality buyers from
the procurement, purchasing and supply chain management divisions to
meet with exhibitors on a pre-scheduled, one-on-one basis. BBAB is looking forward to hosting 150 exclusivelyselected VIP buyers from across
Southeast Asia, to attend over 1,500
pre-arranged meetings.
Overwhelming response
from industry
With only five (5) months to go before BBAB 2015 opens, the show has
received overwhelming response from

both local and international exhibitors, with over 75% of the exhibition space booked. The 2015 edition
will welcome new international pavilions, including Australia, China, Italy,
New Zealand and Spain. Retuning international pavilions include Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Singapore
and Taiwan. BBAB 2015 is anticipating
the participation of more than 150 international exhibitors and 200 Thai
exhibitors, and is looking forward to
welcome 10,000 professional trade
visitors.
New for 2015 is the OEM and Packaging segment, which has already generated much interest with over 25
exhibitors already registered.
BBAB 2015 is strong supported and
endorsed by industry associations in
several key sectors of the Thailand
beauty industry, including the Thai
Cosmetics Manufacturers Association,
Herbal Products Association, Health
Food and Supplements Association,
National Hairdresser Association &
Thai Herbal Industry Association. With
the Federation Of Thai Industries as
the organizer of the event and the
ASEAN Cosmetics Association also
lending regional support to the event,
this further cements BBABs status as
the most widely supported beauty
event in the region and reflects the
About Beyond Beauty ASEAN-Bangkok

Date & Time:
Exhibition Venue:
Admission:
Expected No. of Participants:
Expected Visitorship:
Hosted VIP Buyer Program:
http://beyondbeautyasean.com
2426 September 2015

Hall 5, IMPACT Exhibition & Convention Centre, Bangkok
Free Admission (2425 September for Trade day,
26 September for Public day)
Over 300+ Exhibiting Organizations
Over 10,000 (Local and International)
Over 150 Hosted VIP buyers from ASEAN
Over 300+ exhibiting organizations,

over 10,000 visitors expected
confidence the industry has in it, as

the leading beauty trade event in the
region.
We are really pleased that BBAB
2015 is launching so successfully with
the numerous milestones achieved
and the exciting new initiatives being
planned. This would not have been
possible without the support from the
industry itself, as well as the show
management by Informa Exhibitions
and IMPACT Exhibition Management.
It is also my pleasure to announce that
the Federation of Thai Industries (FTI)
has agreed to be the organizer of the
event. With the full involvement of the
FTI and the support given by key government bodies, this event is well positioned to be the leading beauty event,
not just in Thailand, but also in Southeast Asia. FTIs involvement is totally in
line with the objective to establish a
single ASEAN market and encourage
intra-ASEAN trade from a single platform for industry professionals to expand into this growing beauty market
of increasingly higher middle income
population, said Ms Ketmanee Lertkitcha, Chairwoman, Health & Beauty
Cluster, Federation Of Thai Industries.
COSSMA 6 I 2015
47
COS1506_48_Preise_COS1409_34_Preise_D 22.05.15 08:47 Seite 48
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SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in /kg

June 2015
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies

Anethol from star anis
Bergamotte Reggio
Buccu leaf Betulina
49.00 firm, scarce

18.50 somewhat weaker
88.50 stable
350.00590.00 unchanged
Cananga
Caraway seed, Balkan/Holland
Cassia, China
Cedarwood, China
68.50 almost unchanged

38.50 unchanged
24.00 firm
21.50 firm
Celery seed, India

Citronella, China, 85/35%
96.50 unchanged
21.50 unchanged
Citronella, Java, 85/35%

Clove leaf, Madagascar
Dill, Balkan
21.00 unchanged
18.0020.00 stable
133.00155.00 still firm, good quality,
almost impossible to find
31.0039.50 weak
Eucalyptol, min 99% (1,8-Cineol)

18.50 stable
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 20.00 very little movement
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 20.50 very little movement
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
14.50 stable
Eucalyptus staigeriana
Fennel, seed
27.50 firm
Geranium, Egypt
Geranium, China
91.00 still volatile

175.00 very firm
Ginger, India/Cochin
Grapefruit white
160.00 stable, with firm tendency

30.0046.00 stabilized with firm
tendency
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
23.00 unchanged
37.0047.00 very firm, good quality,
still scarce
Juniper berry
Lavandin abrialis
210.00450.00 stable
28.00 firm, sold out at origin
Lavandin grosso
Lavender, Bulgaria
27.00 firm, sold out at origin

120.00 prices very firm,
practically sold out
at source
Lavender, France, 40/42%
135.00 firm and scarce,

practically sold out
at source
35.00 weak
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest

Lemon grass, Cochin
Limette, distilled,
Mexico, West Indies
17.50 stable
46.00 weak
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%

Menthol, China, BP/DAB
22.00 stabilized
20.50 volatile, prices change
day to day
48
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Note: The /$ exchange rate has an

impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
38.0049.00 weak
16.50 firm
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
Cedarwood, Texas
Coriander
Prices ar ex-works Germany,

customs cleared in the EU
Menthol, India, known brands

Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India

day to day
day to day
Nutmeg, Indonesia

day to day
76.0088.00 weaker
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka

Orange, bitter, Brazil
73.0085.00 weaker
64.50 still firm
Orange, Brazil
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
Palmarosa, East Indies
Parsley seed
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
Pepper, India
Peppermint, American
Peppermint, Indian
Petitgrain, Paraguay
Rosemary, North Africa,
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
6.807.20 still firm

7.157.65 stabilized
33.00 somewhat weaker
165.00 unchanged
84.00 stabilized
75.0090.00 still stable,
firm undertone
26.00 stabilized
55.00 very scarce and very firm
nom. 45.00 scarce, expensive,
new crop starting in April
nom. 500.00 small quantity,
sporadically available
(CITES!)
75.00 stable with firm tendency
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,800.00 very firm, legally sold oil,

almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 65.0070.00 continuing firm
Spearmint, India 60%
Spruce needle, Siberia
Star anis, China
27.00 almost unchanged

25.00 firm, scarce at origin
Vetiver, Haiti
15.50 practically unchanged,

somewhat weaker
200.00 in principal, unchanged
Vetiver, Java
185.00 very firm, very scarce
COS1506_Informa_Asean_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:40 Seite 1
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COS1506_50_Formulierung_COS1409_36_Formulierung_D 22.05.15 08:48 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES FORMULATIONS
In our July/August issue we will be

focussing on formulations for hair
care, hair styling and hair colouring. In September it will be the
turn of body care products.
All of the information published here has been
carefully assembled.
However, neither the
publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or
accuracy.
Bayer MaterialScience AG
Contact: Melanie Dick

51368 Leverkusen, Germany
Phone/Fax: +49 (0)214 3081712
melanie.dick@bayer.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
Profile: Bayer MaterialScience is among the
worlds largest polymer companies. As the
world leader in polyurethanes, the company has
a unique in-depth know-how in production and
synthesis. With Baycusan, Bayer MaterialScience offers a product range of polyurethane dispersions and polyurea powder for a
large number of cosmetic applications. In their
waterbased form they preform perfect as a film
forming polymer with outstanding properties.
The polyurea powder as a sensory additive offers unique advantages in cosmetic formulations. Bayer MaterialScience has 30 production
sites and employs approximately 14,300 people
around the globe. Bayer MaterialScience is a
Bayer Group company.Formulas:
Formulas: Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50
Sensitive Sun Spray SPF 50 (DAAB)
Sun Spray SPF 50 with TiO2
Rational Sun Lotion SPF 50
High Water Sunscreen Lotion

Air Products
Silky Sun Shield Lotion (SPF 50+)
AkzoNobel
Sun care
It goes without saying that in summer everyone is so much more
aware of the sun protection issue than in other seasons. However,
this does not mean to say that sun care products are always used
when necessary or applied in the required amounts. However,
appealing formulation textures or application formats can work
wonders. Our broad selection of sun care formulations will provide
you with plenty of inspiration for new product ideas. You can
download all the formulation details relevant to your strategy free
of charge at www.cossma.com/qr00022*.
or people interested in high

SPF products Bayer Material
Science, for example, offers
three formulations with SPF 50: a
Mineral Sun Screen Lotion, a Sensitive
Sun Spray, a Sun Spray with TiO2 and
a Rational Sun Lotion. But look for
yourself. There is lots more to explore
in our selection!
Outdoor Sun Protection Spray
(expected SPF 25)
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie
Pre-Sun Face Treatment (O/W)
CLR
Sensational Light Feeling
Sunscreen SPF 30+
Croda
Chemical Free Transparent Mineral
Sunscreen (SPF 55)
DKSH
Anti-Aging Sunny Cream
Dr. Straetmans
Bare Skin Feel SPF 50+
DSM
Sensational Light Feeling
Sunscreen SPF 30+
Evonik
After-Sun Moisturizing Lotion
Floratech
SPF 50 Sun Spray

Alfa Cosmetics
After Sun Lotion Sensitive,

Perfume-free O/W
GfN Selco
Sun Cream Low Protection

Amadeo Brasca
Sunscreen Alcohol Spray SPF 50

HallStar
Downloads
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
*Access codes for downloading the formulations can be

found on the Internet panel on this page
After Sun Lotion

Jungbunzlauer
Broad Spectrum Sunscreen
Spray Oil
Lipo Chemicals
Cost-effective W/O Lotion SPF 30
with Light Sensory
Lubrizol
Anti-photoaging Elixir
Lucas Meyer
Sunscreen Spray-Lotion (O/W)
Merck KGaA
Protecting Hyaluron Eye Cream
SPF 15
Nordmann, Rassmann
Sunscreen
SACI-CFPA
Anti-Ageing Infrared Protection
Serum
Sederma
Refreshing Sun Lotion with
SPF30 PA+++
Sino Lion
Sulfate-free Shampoo for Colour
Protection
Zschimmer & Schwarz
COS1506_51_Kalender_COS1409_39_Kalender_GB 22.05.15 08:49 Seite 51
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars

When?
What?
Where?
04.06.2015
Congrs Beaut & Packaging
09.10.06.2015
International Sun
Protection Conference
HBA Global
Expo & Conference
CosmeticBusiness
09.11.06.2015
10.11.06.2015
15.16.06.2015
16.19.06.2015
In-Cosmetics
Korea
Seminar: Konservierung
von kosmetischen Mitteln
Hair Biology Workshop:
Fundamentals, Current Concepts
and Future Trends
Cosmetics Europe Week
17.06.2015
Fragrance Foundation Awards
17.18.06.2015
Seminar: Kosmetik-GMP
Betriebshygiene
MakeUp in Paris
16.06.2015
16.17.06.2015
18.19.06.2015
22.23.06.2015
22.23.06.2015
22.23.06.2015
29.06.2015
01.02.07.2015
Cosmetics & Toiletries

Summit
VKE-Treff
SEPAWA Regional
Group South/East
Seminar: Cosmetics Legislation
29.30.08.2015
SCS Annual
Conference
Cosmoprof
North America
Personal Care
India Expo
Hair and Beauty
02.04.09.2015
HairS15
10.11.09.2015
Happi Anti-Aging Conference &

Tabletop Exhibition
Basisseminar zum
EU-Kosmetikrecht
Cosmeeting
12.14.07.2015
19.21.08.2015
14.09.2015
15.17.09.2015
16.17.09.2015
17.19.09.2015
MakeUp
in New York
interCHARM
Ukraine
Sunscreen Symposium
17.20.09.2015
K-Beauty Expo
21.23.09.2015
IFSCC Conference
24.26.09.2015
Beyond Beauty Asean
26.27.09.2015
BEAUTY FORUM & SPA POLAND
16.18.09.2015
19. International Trade Fair & Congress
POLAND
SIMPLY CLOSER!
27.09.01.10.2015
2015
Le Vaudreuil
France
London
Great Britain
New York
USA
Munich
Germany
Seoul
South Korea
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Hamburg
Germany
Cosmetic Valley
www.congres-beaute-packaging.com
Summit Events
www.summit-events.com
UBM Canon
hbaglobal.packagingdigest.com
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmeticskorea.com
cosmetic campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
ProDerm
www.proderm-academy.com
Brussels
Belgium
New York
USA
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Paris
France
Pennsylvania
USA
Berlin
Germany
Fulda
Germany
Leopoldsdorf
Austria
London
Great Britain
Las Vegas
USA
New Delhi
India
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Trier
Germany
New Brunswick, NJ
USA
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Paris
France
New York
USA
Kiev
Ukraine
Orlando, FL
USA
Seoul
South Korea
Zurich
Switzerland
Bangkok
Thailand
Warsaw
Poland
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope-conference.org
The Fragrance Foundation
www.fragrance.org
Cosmetic Campus
Beauteam
www.makeup-in-paris.com
Allured
http://summit.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
VKE Kosmetikverband
www.kosmetikverband.de
Sepawa
www.sepawa.com
Cosmetic Campus
SCS
www.scs.org.uk
SoGeCos
www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
UBM India
www.ubmindia.in
Messe Frankfurt
www.hair-beauty.messefrankfurt.com
DWI
www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de
Happi
conference.happi.com
IKW
www.ikw.org
Informa
www.cosmeeting.com
Beauteam
www.makeup-in-newyork.com
Premier Expo
www.intercharm.kiev.ua
SCC
www.flscc.org/sunscreen-symposium.html
Kintex
www.expobeauty.co.kr/eng
IFSCC
www.ifscc2015.com
Informa
www.beyondbeautyasean.com
Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o.
info@health-and-beauty.com.pl
www.beauty-fairs.com.pl
Colombo
Sri Lanka
IFEAT
www.ifeat.org
Warsaw
26.27. September 2015
IFEAT Conference
Who?
SERVICES
COSSMA 6 I 2015
51
COS1506_52_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 22.05.15 07:42 Seite 52
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS GUIDE
Suppliers Guide
On the following pages you
will find a selection of
suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in
alphabetical order based on
the English section headings.
You can also find a full overview, with a search function,
at www.cossma.com/guide
20 Seit
e 61
Adeps
Lanae
Adeps
Lanae
H. Erha
rd Wag
28701
Bremen, ner GmbH
Postfach
Tel. (04
21)
77 01 20
www.wag 6 93 60-0, Fax
(04 21)
nerlanolin
6 93 60
.com
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roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 urg
. http://
03 35
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d-lindner.co
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office@
roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 rg
. http://
03 35
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fllung
Alumin
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Wiesenst ol GmbH
D-79669 rae 13
Telefon Zell/Wiesenta
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 l
53-0
E-Mail: 0 76 25 / 92
53-1
Internet: info@zellaeros 4
www.zella
ol.de
erosol.de
You are
looking
for exp
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contact
s?
Should your company

be listed here?
Wir habe
Herstellenn uns spezialisi
, Fllen und ert auf das
Standard Verschlieen von
Zeitschrifsachets
Onpacksa tensachets
Konturen chets
Tchlein sachets
Check
the Inte
rnation
al
B2B Exc
hange
on pag
e 48
in this
issue.
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf
GmbH &
Dorfwiesens
Co. KG
trae, 61197
Tel. 0 60
Florstadt
41
Mail: kontak/ 82 28 - 27, Fax
t@lohn-pack 0 60 41 / 47 76
.com
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KONFEK
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note:
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Advertis
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09.04.20
15
r ad toda
SU PP
FA
von Salbe
n, Gelen
, Cremes,
Liquida,
Pulve
Zahnpasta,
oder Aluze r; Suppositorie
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in Alu-, Kunst
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dorothea.michaelis@
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Aloe Ver
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+49
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21 16
5-14
4
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0)721 165-227
Start winning tomorrows customer today
with your entry in the suppliers guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:

Category/ies:
43 mm
3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers
Height i. mm:
guide at a price of 3,10 per column mm for each entry.

You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
To be first published in issue:

07-08/2015
11/2015
Contact:
black and white
09/2015
10/2015
12/2015
01-02/2016
1 year
test: 3 month
Street, P.O. Box:
For a period of:
Post Code, City:
Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country:
Phone:
Fax:
Date, Signature
52
mm
4 colour (Euro scale)
COSSMA 6 I 2015
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Carmine
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH

28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Contract Filling
SERVICES
Contract Manufacturing
+ Packaging
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Strae 13 . 21035 Hamburg

Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: office@roeper.de . http://www.roeper.de
Aerosol Mixing Balls
SiLibeads
glass balls for

aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410Fax(++49)9277-99499
E-Mail: sili@sigmund-lindner.com
www.sili.eu
Aloe Vera
You are looking

for export
contacts?
Check the International
B2B Exchange
on page 56
in this issue.
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Strae 13 . 21035 Hamburg

Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: office@roeper.de . http://www.roeper.de
Lohnabfllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstrae 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
E-Mail: info@zellaerosol.de
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
GANZ EINFACH:
Aluminium Seal Closures
Spenden statt
Geschenke!
Geburtstag, Hochzeit, Marathon,
oder Ihre eigene Idee - starten
Sie eine eigene Spendenaktion
zugunsten der SOS-Kinderdrfer
weltweit und motivieren Sie Ihre
Freunde, Sie zu untersttzen!
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das

Herstellen, Fllen und Verschlieen von
Standardsachets
Zeitschriftensachets
Onpacksachets
Konturensachets
Tchlein
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstrae, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: kontakt@lohn-pack.com
LEISTUNG
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
ABFLLEN
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
Please note:
07-08/2015
Publishing date:
06.08.2015
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,

chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genumitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Advertising deadline:
26.06.2015
Alu-Siegelverschlsse
Alu-Folien
fr Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behlter
in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
in jeder Gre zu jedem Zweck
Qualitt seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
www.meine-spendenaktion.de
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG |seit 1964
Wagener & Co GmbH

Postfach 1645 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
E-Mail: kontakt@wagener-co.de
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
COSSMA 6 I 2015
53
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS GUIDE
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Polyurethanes, lm forming polymers

and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
Labels
Alsheimer Strae 1
67586 Hillesheim - Germany
Tel.: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0
www.rationator.com
cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com
baycusan
Your
advertisement
could be right
Cosmetic Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Wir packen alles ein - schnell und zuverlssig
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstrae 8 D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
info@meding.com
www.meding.com
Konfektionierung, Lohnverpackung und
Kommissionierung von Waren und Artikeln

in Klein- und Groauflagen
Verpacken von mehrteiligen Sets, Verkaufsdisplays und Aufstellern
Produktkennzeichnung und Chargenrckverfolgung
Full-Service
vom Einkauf der Materialien ber Lagerung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte
Cellophanierung
Glitter Effects
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
SiLiglit

Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Qualittssicherung mit lckenloser Dokumentation des gesamten Produktionsprozesses.
Engelstrae 37, 48143 Mnster

www.dermatest.de
Falkenhorster Verpackungen GmbH

uerer Hofring 6
09429 Wolkenstein - OT Hilmersdorf
Fon: +49 (0) 37369-1712 14
Fax: +49 (0) 37369-1712 28 oder 1712 914
www.falkenhorster-verpackungen.de
info@falkenhorster-verpackungen.de
Filling Lines
Lip Balm Full Service
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH

Phone (++49) 9277 99410 Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Maschinen fr Aerosole
und Sprhsysteme
Your company could be

placed here for only
120,40 per issue.
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
54
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Fll- und Verschliessmaschinen

Prf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zufhr- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgerte
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschume

Pamasol Willi Mder AG, CH-8808 Pfffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
info@pamasol.com, www.pamasol.com
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS GUIDE
SERVICES
Mixing + Homogenizing
good reasons for reading
!
Trends
Statements
Innovation
SEUFERT
TRANSPARENTE
VERPACKUNGEN GMBH
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10
Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140
www.symex.de
PACKED
WITH
INSPIRATION.
www.seufert.com
Advertising Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Discover today your

competitors plans for tomorrow
Sterilization
steril!
Wir machen Ihre
Produkte
Packaging
COSSMA! On-line and right

up to date
BGS Ihr Spezialist fr Strahlensterilisation.
www.bgs.eu
Strafeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen

Tel. +49 (0)8133 91 85 90
Fax +49 (0)8133 91 85 99
info@rosa-heinz.de, www.rosa-heinz.de
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG

info@bgs.eu | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Vegetable Oils
COSSMA! Search and download

from our archives
3
COSSMA! Free e-paper
4
Danke fr alles!
COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads

(value 156 Euros)
Verpackung
fr Kosmetik
Selbstabfller
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprhkpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfmflaschen,
Sprhflaschen ohne Treibgas)
www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de
10 issues a year
192 Euros (Germany)
198 Euros (outside Germany)
Auch Kleinstmengen!
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
D . 61462 Knigstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
E-Mail: info@gerschon.de
Siebdruck ab 300 Stck
Wool wax
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Order today,
at www.cossma.com/subscription
via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165 131
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 1418 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
leserservice@health-and-beauty.com
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1506_56_IBF_COS1409_42_IBF_GB 22.05.15 08:49 Seite 56
www.cossma.com
SERVICE
XB2B-EXCHANGE
Go to
B2B Exchange: Find your

business partners of tomorrow today!
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
Wish to export their products

abalico
Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rdiger Vogel
info@abalico.de
www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
info@akzent-direct.com
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena
info@belico.de
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
Mnchen, Germany
Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer
a.frommer@beautylumis.com
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach
COSMETIC@BELTER.de
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Mr. Roland Schfer
rschaefer@gruber-kosmetik.de
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH

Guderma GmbH
Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
guderma@web.de
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry and
very dry skin
56
COSSMA 6 I 2015
Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany

Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte
f.duarte@klapp-cosmetics.com
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
Celle, Germany
Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider
saskia.schneider@heitland.com
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products,
wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn
langhorn@houseofmelchiorsen.com
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas made of biodynamic herbs from
owned herbs-garden.
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH

Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jrgen Geisler
juergen.geisler@grandel.de
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
export@ionto.de
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
Mauer, Germany
Contact: Ms. Rose Crescentini
is-sales@neovita.de
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek

Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
Essen, Germany
Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz
b.schmitz@schrammek.de
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co. KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
info@tana-cosmetics.com
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COS1506_57_Impressum_COS1409_49_Impressum_GB 22.05.15 08:50 Seite 57
www.cossma.com
Masthead
Page
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676

Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jrgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com
Managing Director
Jrgen Volpp
Advisory Board Franois Berthoud, Jean-Franois Billon, Agns Borel,

Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lvque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
E-mail: dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH

Service kundenservice@health-and-beauty.com
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly Parfmerie und Kosmetik and
Aerosol and Spray Report
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: 192; outside Germany: 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 1418, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH

Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
International Representatives
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tr 8. III. em. (MTI Szkhz)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
E-mail: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu
Italy Zero Venti
Loris Sparti
Via Valprato, 68
10155 Torino, Italy
Phone: +39 0115637338
E-mail: loris@zeroventi.com
Advertising Support
Beate Bantzhaff
+49 (0)721 165-232
Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o.

Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3
02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
E-mail: malgorzata.szulc@health-and-beauty.com.pl
USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc.
Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail: detleffox@comcast.net
Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Advertisers
Index
ACTI PACK
www.actipack.eu
p. 45
Air Products & Chemicals, Inc.

www.airproducts.com/oxyforce
p. 9
Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry AB

www.akzonobel.com/personalcare
p. 60
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH

www.carecreations.basf.com
p. 7
Bayer Material Science AG
www.baycusan.com
BB med. product GmbH
www.bb-kalkar.de
p. 19
p. 32, 37
Bech Packaging Sp.zo.o.

www.bechpackaging.com
p. 17
bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbH

www.bomo-trendline.de
p. 31
Brookfield Engineering
www.belusa.com
p. 21
Cosmetic Valley
www.cosmetic-360.com
p. 33
Dr. Straetmans GmbH

www.dr-straetmans.de
p. 36
DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.

www.dsm.com/personal-care
p. 2
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH

www.grafe.com
p. 35
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de/magic
p. 34
Informa Beauty
www.creative-beauty-paris.com
www.beyondbeautyasean.com
p. 39
p. 49
IMPAG Import GmbH

www.impag.de
p. 15
Intergate Consulting GmbH

www.intergate-consulting.de
p. 45
KHK GmbH
www.lipcare.de/private-label
p. 50
Klar Partner AG
www.klar-partner.de
p. 40
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH

www.kosmetik-konzept.de
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
p. 23, 50
p. 11
Merck KG aA
www.merck4cosmetics.com
p. 8
Naturkosmetik Konzepte
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
p. 29
NCD Ingredients GmbH

www.ncd-ingredients.de
p. 25
Quadpack Germany GmbH

www.quadpack.com
p. 38
Sabinsa Europe GmbH

www.sabinsaeurope.com
p. 30
Zellaerosol GmbH
www.zellaerosol.de
p. 38
Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co. KG

www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 5
COS1506_58_Vorschau_COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB 22.05.15 08:50 Seite 58
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
The future of healthy hair
PREVIEW
across Pantene Pro-V shampoos, in order to attract oxidative minerals like a magnet. The molecular structure of EDDS allows it to specifically target copper over other minerals
commonly found in wash water, such as calcium and magnesium. When EDDS complexes with copper, it prevents
copper from catalyzing the production of free radicals,
giving the technology antioxidant properties. As a result,
the hairs vital protein structure is better preserved, and
hair health can improve over time.
www.pantene.com
photo: Procter & Gamble
Scientific innovation is at the heart of

all of Procter & Gambles product developments, and we are constantly
looking to scale our scientific learnings across different areas of the business.
As hair colour scientists have known
since the early 2000s that copper
can amplify oxidative damage during
Dr. Jeni Thomas,
the hair colouring process, recent
Pantene Senior
proteomics studies, in partnership
Scientist and Pantene Pro-V Hair Rewith the worlds leading experts of
search Institute mem- Pantene Pro-V Hair Research Instiber, Procter&Gamtute, indicated that copper can also
ble, Switzerland
lead to oxidative damage in virgin
hair. Although copper is essential to the body, and even
plays an important role in the production of healthy hair,
fibres can absorb excessive amounts of copper from external sources. This excess copper can lead to the production
of free radicals. Free radicals are known to damage skin,
and we now understand that they break bonds in hairs proteins, which leaves hair weaker and more prone to breakage
over time. Severely damaged hair actually absorbs more
copper, thus amplifying this damage a vicious, unavoidable cycle.
That is why Pantene Pro-V has developed Antioxidant Damage Blocker technology to minimize oxidative damage
while washing. The clinically-tested anti-oxidative damage
blocker technology (the molecule EDDS) is formulated
Anti-oxidative damage blocker technology

capturing and removing copper
July/August 2015
Product development
Plus:
+++ The hottest developments in natural cosmetics
+++ What are the most striking trends in the C&T
market of the Middle East? +++ Latest update:
Market survey ingredients +++ Airless packaging
is the choice not only for natural cosmetics +++
COSSMA 7/2015 is published on August 6th, 2015
58
COSSMA 6 I 2015
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
Hans-Jrg Rsch, Head of the

division pharmaceutical and
scientific information from
Wala talks about the latest
challenges in the field of
natural cosmetics
Are natural ingredients still driving growth

in cosmetics and toiletries?
Focus: Naturtal cosmetics
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 22.05.15 07:24 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrows
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen

kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.ashland.com
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.azelis.com
www.roeper.de
info@bottlemate.de
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.rettner.de
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.sili.eu
www.derschlag.com
www.inolex.com
www.unionpack.de
www.sabinsa.com
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
www.pack-it.de
www.itwsbi.com
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.cortex.dk
www.aot.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
You can find further information of these

suppliers@www.cossma.com/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just 60, per month
for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1506_Akzo_Nobel_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:22 Seite 1
www.cossma.com

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COS1506_01_Titel_COS1402_01_Titel_GB 22.05.

VIP of the Month

Esther Belser, Mibelle,

Focus: Hair care

COS1506_DSM_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.05.15 07:21 Seite 1

At DSM we believe that nothing complements a persons appearance better than

COS1506_03_Edi_COS1409_03_Edi_GB 22.05.15 08:23 Seite 1

the former to 3,000 independent salons in order to

more popular than the more established serums due to

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Sylvain Mass, Dow Corning Europe:

Linda Foltis, Ashland Specialty Ingredients:

Oliver Bernd, Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut:

Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel:

2015: Solutions with

a Melanie Cummings, Michael Pfeiffer,

a 25th anniversary of In-Cosmetics

Florence Trombini, BASF Beauty Care Solutions:

a Dr. Alexander Thiemann, Sabrina Grne,

Containers and more

Whitening An effective and natural blend

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COS1506_06_Download 22.05.15 08:24 Seite 6

Free Downloads for Subscribers

... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics

Neha Nayak from Mintels

photo: Vikacity, Shutterstock.com

Click through our Web TV clips:

The Indian skin care market

Top-Downloads for June

Improving Eye Contour

talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional

Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA

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Add more life to shampoo with Lamesoft Care

Finding derived from a representative TNS market survey.

COS1506_08_People_COS1406_08_People_GB 22.05.15 08:25 Seite 8

Brlind I In order to ensure

which, up until now, has been

metics Europe and he will officially start in July. Previously, he

Cosmetics Europe I John

NCD Ingredients I Horst

SEPAWA: Astrid Wulfinghoff (left) and

2015 after a short, severe illness.

Merck presents high-quality ingredients

Dr. Michael Heckmeier, Head of Business Unit Performance

Sunny orange expands high-quality product range

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30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH

8,000 visitors in Leipzig

photos: Pauline Fabry

2015 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.

COS1506_10_Mibelle_COS1406_12_Greentech_GB 22.05.15 08:27 Seite 10

FOCUS: HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS

Anti-ageing hair care

Preventing hair loss +

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed RootBioTec HO, a novel

New active ingredient reduces hair loss

s consumers continue to strive

Many of these hair loss problems

Women, too, suffer from

Hair loss due to manifold

Fig. 1: Thanks to a new technology high quality, phytogenic

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