Culture, Traditional Ceremonies, People & Customs,….

in Vanuatu

People & Customs

The people of Vanuatu, a name which means ‘Land Eternal’, are predominantly Melanesian,
and call themselves Ni-Vanuatu (meaning ‘of Vanuatu’). Ni-Vanuatu have lived in these
islands for centuries and more than 115 distinctly different cultures and languages still thrive
here. Vanuatu is recognized as one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world. There
are small communities of French, British, Australian, New Zealand, Vietnamese, Chinese and
other Pacific Islands people living in harmony with the Ni-Vanuatu. Vanuatu is a traditional
society with a distinctive Melanesian cultural heritage. Dances, ceremonies, funerals,
weddings, initiations, status and systems of authority, artistic styles, animal and crop
husbandry can vary from island to island, and often from district to district on the larger
islands.

Traditional Ceremonies

In kastom-oriented areas, traditional ceremonies still form an integral part of village life.
From the island of Epi northwards, status and power are earned by taking ‘grades’ through the
nimangki system. Men show their wealth in elaborate public ceremonies, accompanied by
traditional feasting and dancing. Each step up the village social ladder is celebrated with ritual
pig killings.

On Pentecost Island, the famous land-diving ceremony celebrates the yam harvest from April
to early June. Men and boys dive from wooden towers with vines tied to their ankles, helping
to guarantee a good harvest the following year.

The island of Tanna is home to one of Vanuatu’s major cultural events, the Nekowiar. This
three-day gift-exchanging ceremony makes a magnificent sight, as up to 2000 participants
attempt to out-do each other with their lavish gifts, dancing skills and ornate makeup.
Ambrym’s Rom Dance, held every August as part of the grade-taking ceremonies, is another
impressive sight. Dancers, who represent spirits, wear a tall, conical painted mask and a cloak
of banana leaves to conceal their bodies.

Village Life

While life in the larger towns and cities has changed recently, the structure of village life
remains pretty much unchanged. Some 80% of people live in rural areas, mostly in small clan-
based villages of less than 50 people. Most villages are made up of customary land owned by
extended families, and headed by a chief. The chief speaks on behalf of his village, and his
word is accepted as law. Families are granted their customary land to occupy and cultivate,
but not to sell.

In rural areas, most villagers practise subsistence farming of food crops, supplemented by
hunting, gathering and fishing, and sometimes cash cropping. Most villagers wear European-
style clothing, however, in kastom villages, traditional costumes, such as grass skirts and
nambas (penis coverings), are still worn. In north and central Vanuatu, most villages have a
traditional nakamal (village clubhouse or clan hut) where the men meet at sunset. It also
houses the clan’s sacred objects. Elsewhere, the nakamal may be an open-ended hut or rough
shelter where men meet to talk and drink kava. Visitors should be respectful of places that are
tabu (sacred, holy or forbidden). Many tambu (the plural of tabu) relate to private places,
nakamals or beaches, and to certain ceremonies. A tabu should be approached with the utmost
respect.

Village Protocol
Stick to the road when passing through a village. If you want to enter, wait at the
outskirts until approached.
Most land is owned by islanders or their families. If you leave the road and walk on a
bush path, ask permission from the first person you meet.
Do not pick fruit from the roadside, as it usually belongs to someone under customary
law.
Bathing suits, shorts and skimpy clothes are considered disrespectful in villages. Both
men and women should be fully dressed.

Observe local tabu (eg nakamals are generally tabu to women), and if in doubt
about protocol, ask first.

Arts & Crafts in Vanuatu

Vanuatu’s art ranges from traditional through to contemporary pieces and sculpture. Art
objects such as carvings are widely available in Vila. The majority are decorated with
traditional patterns, a stylised face or a representation of an ancestral spirit. Ancient art forms
include petroglyphs and rock paintings, and several islands have caves decorated with animal
paintings and hand stencils. Complex sand drawings are also used on some of the northern
islands to recount legends, songs and ceremonies.

Vanuatu’s traditional crafts, such as shell necklaces, ankle rattles, carved bowls, masks and
elaborate headdresses, are closely linked to ritual ceremonies. Tree fern statues, carved for
men’s grade-taking ceremonies (a public show of status and power), are produced on both
Ambrym and Malakula. Other carved items include miniature canoes, animals, bows, arrows,
clubs and spears, as well as the large platters and bowls in which yams and kava are pounded.
The platters from the Shepherd Islands are especially beautiful, often carved in the shape of
birds or fish.

Elaborate masks, sometimes decorated with paint, feathers and pig tusks, are still worn in
traditional ceremonies on the islands of Ambrym Ambae, Maewo and Malakula. Most famous
are those of the Rom dancers of Ambrym. Masks represent the faces of ancestral spirits and
are usually made of tree fern or clay moulded to a wickerwork frame. The islands are also
known for their exceptionally fine baskets and mats, woven from pandanus leaves and burao
(wild hibiscus) stalks.

There are several art galleries in Port Vila, and also in Luganville. In Vila, L’Atelier Gallerie
and the National Museum are worth seeing for visitors with an interest in art and culture. The
Michoutouchkine & Pilioko Foundation Gallery has a fine collection of Pacific bric-a-brac as
well as batik prints, and can be visited on the road to Pango village. On the same road, Diana
Tam Home Art Gallery has fine art, gifts and souvenirs such as table linen, glassware, prints
and gift cards using oils and watercolors.

Cultural Shows in Vanuatu

Vanuatu is one of the Pacific's most culturally diverse countries - there are over 100
indigenous languages, and a huge variety of tribal dances, ceremonies and initiations. Tribal
cultures and traditions are known as custom (or kastom), and are celebrated throughout the
year with special ceremonies and rites. One of the most famous is Tanna's Nekowiar Festival
Vanuatu's largest and most significant custom celebration.

Nekowiar or Toka Festival (variable, next in August 2008)

The Nekowiar Festival on rugged Tanna Island makes a magnificent sight, as up to 2000
participants attempt to out-do each other with their lavish gifts, dancing displays and ornate
makeup, known as 'beauty magic'. Held every three to four years, the bringing together
villagers for three days of gift-giving, dances and feasting. The most famous dance is the
men's Toka dance, which takes place on day two of the Nekowiar. Toka dancers make a circle
to capture a woman, who is then tossed up and down between them. When the dancing is
over, there is a pig killing ceremony and an exchange of gifts.

Dining in Vanuatu

Restaurants& Cafés

With its French influence, Vanuatu has made a name for itself throughout the South Pacific
for its superb cuisine. Vila and Luganville are full of gourmet delights, and there are plenty of
options to suit every taste and budget, including European, Asian and traditional Pacific
cuisine. In and around Vila, there are some 50 eateries offering everything from succulent
Santo beef steaks to traditional delicacies such as coconut crab served with chilli, garlic,
coconut or curry sauces.

Other local specialties include nautou (ground pigeon), escargots (snails), rousette (flying fox
or fruit bat), crevettes (prawns), poulet or chicken fish, mangrove oysters and nems (spring
rolls). Tahitian raw fish salad (poissin cru) marinated in lime juice and coconut milk is another
delicacy.

For those who prefer to self-cater, supermarkets carry a wide range of local and imported
food, and most of the larger villages have general stores, although the choice may be limited.
Local markets at both Vila, Luganville and some of the outer islands sell fresh garden-grown
produce such as bananas, yams, grapefruit, tomatoes, bananas, pawpaw, coconuts, lemons and
yams. These are generally the cheapest places to buy food. In the outer islands, restaurants
are scarce and often have menus limited to chicken and rice or island-style dishes such as
laplap, rice and yams.

Local Fare

Laplap is the country’s national dish, made by pounding taro or yam roots into a paste. The
mixture is placed on taro or spinach leaves and soaked in grated coconut mixed with water.
Pieces of pork, beef, chicken, fish or flying fox are added, and the mixture is tied up in leaves
from the laplap plant. The small packages are then cooked in an underground oven. You can
sample fragrant laplap slabs at the markets for about 150VT. Other island dishes include
tuluk, a pork-filled package prepared and cooked in the same way as laplap, and nalot, a
vegetable dish made from boiled or roasted taro, banana or breadfruit mixed with grated
coconut and water.

For a refreshing drink, try fresh coconut juice or, for something a little stronger, you can
indulge in kava, an intoxicating liquid made from pounded or ground pepper root mixed with
water. This pungent and muddy drink is sometimes referred to as ‘aelan bia’ (island beer), and
is an evening ritual throughout Vanuatu. There are plenty of kava bars in both Vila and
Luganville, although in traditional parts of Vanuatu, women are forbidden to drink kava. If
kava’s not to your liking, try the rich Tanna coffee and the locally brewed Tusker and Vanuatu
bitter.

Fishing in Vanuatu

Warm tropical ocean currents, vibrant reef systems and uncrowded waters – a fishing trip to
Vanuatu is a truly remarkable experience.
Vanuatu is renowned as the fishing hot spot of the South Pacific. Vanuatu comprises 83 small
islands spread across the Pacific Ocean with miles and miles of prime fishing spots.
Vanuatu's virgin waters offer great fishing for those with plenty of experience and those that
are just starting out. Fishing charters will take you deep-sea fishing, big game, reef, fly and
sport fishing. Besides the stunning scenery and relaxed atmosphere that’s synonymous with
Vanuatu, you will fish among untouched reefs, live volcanoes and underwater sea mounts.
Vanuatu's tropical climate and warm ocean currents bring a wide variety of fish to these
crystal clear waters. You’ll find giant trevally, queenfish, bonito, wahoo, mahi mahi, marlin
and son on. Black Marlin of 400kg have even been found!

Shopping in Vanuatu

Vila is Vanuatu’s only duty-free port and a shopper’s delight with its colourful blend of
French, English and Melanesian cultures. French perfume, champagnes and patisseries can be
found alongside souvenir outlets, jewellery and gift shops, and fashionwear including brightly
coloured sarongs, hand-printed t-shirts, board shorts and beachwear. Chinatown in Rue Carnot
is a good place to look for bargains, with everything from Japanese stereos to straw hats and
camping gear. To navigate your way around, pick up a free city map from the Information
Centre at Pilioko building. On the main street, there are several duty-free shops selling
electrical goods, gifts, French perfume, CDs, cosmetics, liquor, wines, spirits and French
crystal. You will need your passport and onward ticket to make a purchase, and the shop will
deliver the goods to the airport or main wharf when you depart Vanuatu.

If you’re stocking up on food supplies, there are plenty of supermarkets and corner stores in
Port Vila and Luganville. The large ones carry an excellent range of fresh and processed local
and imported foods, beer and wine. Most are open seven days a week from 7.30am (some
open earlier), and many remain open until 9pm. Visitors can also browse around the colourful
markets in downtown Vila, which sell fresh local fruit and vegetables, flowers and handcrafts.
Duty-Free Allowances
Passengers over 15 years:
200 cigarettes or 250g of tobacco or 50 cigars or 100 cigarettes.
1.5 litres alcohol and 2 litres wine.
25cl litre eau de toilette and 10 centilitres perfume.
A total of 50,000 vatu (approx.$A600) in unused goods.
Visitor personal effects are entered duty free.

Shopping Hours
Shopping hours are 7.30am to 8.30pm.
Some shops, except supermarkets, banks and the Post Office, close for lunch from
11.30am to 1.30pm from Monday to Friday.
Shops open on Saturday morning, and some specialty stores and supermarkets open on
Sunday.
Vila markets are every day except Sundays.

Toka Festival in Vanuatu

The three day Toka Festival on Vanuatu’s Tanna island is one of Vanuatu’s major cultural
events. This gift-exchanging ceremony makes a magnificent sight, as up to 2000 participants
attempt to out-do each other with their lavish gifts, dancing skills and ornate makeup. This
festival is a symbol of alliance between different tribal groups and the more one gives, the
larger status they acquire.

The ceremony begins with women dancing all night, surrounded by men who are waiting for
dawn to come so they can take their place. At sunrise, the Toka dance begins and the men
mime scenes of daily life. A group of the host village then carries out a dance in reply to the
Toka, stamping the ground rhythmically. There is also a pig killing ceremony, food exchange
and visits to various Nakamals.