INDUSTRIAL TRAINING PROGRAMME

Submitted by

G.Ambikavathi [05F004]

S.Nithya [05F036]

N.P.Pradeepa [05F038]

Raj Priya.M [05F041]

C.Swasthika [05F055]

Training as from May 7th, 2007 to June 7,

2007 in Stallion Garments, Tirupur.

Department of Fashion Technology

PSG College of Technology

(Autonomous Institution)
Coimbatore – 641 004

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

2
ABSTRACT

In this Training Programme, we had a thorough study of the various

departments in the apparel industry. The functions and working were also studied. The
company’s set up, their goals, various other aspects which we thought was important
were dealt with. From the raw material to the final garment processes were gone through
in detail.
Stallion Garments, an ISO 9001:2000 certified company, is a leading manufacturer
and exporter of knit and woven garments. With over 15 years of experience in the
garment industry, Stallion Garments is a fully integrated manufacturing unit. The
garments leaving from the factory are of the highest quality. The various steps in
controlling quality and their procedures were learnt. In this training we learnt the
organizing efforts taken by the company, how the supervision is done and the motivation
given to the labors.

3
 CONTENTS
S.NO TITLE PAGE NO.
Acknowledgement 2
Abstract 3
1. Introduction 5
General Details about the organization
2. Company Profile, Plan & Layout, Machinery Details, Apparel 6,7,8,9,10
Production System
Fabric Department
3. Fabric analysis, Inspection System, Forms issued to cutting 11
department, Fabric sourcing and center
4. Pattern making and Sampling Department 13
Cutting Department
5. Layout, Cut order planning, Method of spreading, Method of 14
cutting, Assortment and Bundling, Production Capacity
Sewing Department
6. Layout, Machinery Details, Various garment style operation 18
sequence and time, Inspection, Material handling, Accessories
Standard Test for fabric and garments
7. 28
Machinery , Tests, Center ,Care labeling
Quality Control
8. 32
Inspection, AQL
Finishing Department
9. 37
Machinery, After construction, Post sewing specification
Production planning and control
10. 40
Schedule, Line balancing, Plant loading, Records, Software used
Administrative Aspects
11. 43
HR Allotment, Start and end process, Merchandiser’s role
12. Photo Gallery 46
13. Conclusion 49

4
1.Introduction

In this Training Programme, we had a thorough study of the various

departments in the apparel industry. The functions and working were also studied. The
company’s set up, their goals, various other aspects which we thought was important
were dealt with. From the raw material to the final garment processes were gone through
in detail.
Stallion Garments, an ISO 9001:2000 certified company, is a leading
manufacturer and exporter of knit and woven garments. With over 15 years of experience
in the garment industry, Stallion Garments is a fully integrated manufacturing unit. This
unit manufactures a wide range of knit and woven garments in various styles, designs and
colors. their range of quality products for men, ladies and children include: Polo’s,
Roopd Silicon, Merchirised, Stone Washed, Swim Suits, Boxer Shorts, Crew neck tee’s,
Hooded Items, Outer jackets, Rugby Shirts, Blended items, Briefs, Camisole, Bodysuits,
Woven& Knitted night wears, Pajamas, Garment dyed items with special finishes like
enzyme wash, UV resistance finish, flame retardant finish etc.
The garments leaving from the factory are of the highest quality. The various
steps in controlling quality and their procedures were learnt. In this training we learnt the
organizing efforts taken by the company, how the supervision is done and the motivation
given to the labors. The latest technologies implemented in the industry were seen. We
were trained in marketing aspects and dealing with buyers.

2.Company Profile

5
 Name of the organization : Stallion Garments

Registered Office : 27, Appachi Nagar, 3rd St,

Kongu Nagar, Tirupur - 641 607
India

Chairman & Managing : K.A.S Thierumurthi

Director A.M. Karthikkeyan

Sister Concerns : M/s. Statesman Fashions, M/s. K.A.T

Garments, M/s. Stallion Fashions

Branches : Production Unit, S.Periyapalayam

Dyeing Unit, Karumpalayam

Items Manufactured : All types of knitted and woven readymade

garments in all kinds of fabrics.

Infrastructure : Entirely in-house and fully integrated facilities

Monthly Production capacity : 1, 00,000 pcs. In basic t-shirts.

Staff Strength : 320

Employees : 1200

Machinery
740

Minimum Qty/Lead Time : 1000pcs/Colour : 5000pcs/Order

90 days for yarn dyed orders
60 days for other than yarn dyed

Principle Buyers / Export : International (USA, France, Germany, Spain,

Countries UK, Australia, Ireland, Switzerland, Canada.)
Company Plan & Layout

6
 1 2

4 5
3

6
7 8
Factory Building

AC Sheet Roof Building

Feed Room

AC Sheet Roof Building

Conference Hall
Floor Toilet block

AC Sheet Roof Building

9

Finishing Section

AC Sheet Roof Building

Dining Hall & Rest
Boiler
Shed
Room

1. Power Room 3. Lab Room 5.Gate 7.Toilet Block

2. Two wheeler parking 4.Accessories Room 6.Security Room 8.Compressor Room
Machinery Details

7
Sewing:
 SIRUBA – Industrial Sewing Machine
Make: KAULIN MFG. CO., LTD,
3 Min Shen E.Road,
Taipei,
Taiwan.
Model No: L-60A, L-600A/L-600B, L818F, L818F-U, C007J, UTP-J/UTQ-J
 SIRUBA SINGER
Model No: L818 F-M1-K11
 SUNSTAR Singer
Model no: 30092582
 JUKI Singer
Model No: 4 DOWF 10832
 SIRUBA F/L Machine
Model No: C – 007J, C007E, C007H, F-007E, F-007J, F-007 J – W122-356
F007J – W122 – 356/FHA,F007H – W122,F007J – W22 – 356 – FQ
– FEC
 SIRUBA O/L Machine
Model No: 747 F,747F Bed,767 E 5 Threads ,747F-514M2-24,747F-514M2-
24/LFC,747F-514M2-24/TG/EC,747FS-514M2-24,
 SIRUBA Air Tower F/L Machine
Model No: C007J – W812 – 356/CRL/TU/UTP
 SIRUBA Air Cylinder F/L Machine
Model No: C007J – W122– 356/CH/UTP
 SIRUBA Puller Machine
Model No: C007J – W122– 356/CH/UTP/CL
 PEGASUS Bed F/L Machine
Model No: W1562-01JX356BS
 PEGASUS – CY - Bed F/L Machine
Model No: W664-01GBX356

8
 PEGASUS Air Tower F/L Machine
Model No: W664-35 BCX356/FT540/UT333
 PEGASUS Lease Machine
Model No: W1562-05-BX356Bs/FT0B/MD0A
 PEGASUS O/L Machine
Model No: M752-181-2X4/BT188, M752-13-2X4
 JUKI – Button Hole
Model No: LBH-781KU
 BROTHER – Button Hole
Model No: LH4-B814-3
 JUKI – Button
Model No: LK-1903SS-304/MC-590-3K
 Brother - Button
Model No: CB3-B916-1
 JUKI – Bar Tack
Model No: LK-1900SS/MC-590
 SINGER – Bar Tack
Model No: LBH-781KU
 Kansai Special Picotting
 Ranew – Zigzag
Model no: 130DX 1000
 SIRUBHA – Multi Needle
Model No: VC – 008

Spreading Machine: Mehala Annyst Bullmer Compact D600

Cutting Machine: Gurber
Packing Machine: Wedge pack

9
Apparel Production System

10
 Laying/Cutting
[KVR Nagar]

Tag for
Identification

Feed Section
[Assortment of
bundled pieces

Allotment of work
to each floor
(sewing)

Checking

Packing

Final Inspection

Bill Of Lading
[Cost on Freight]

3. Fabric Department

11
Fabric Analysis
Fabric: All Feeder Lycra – warp knitting m/c
Fiber Content: 95% Cotton 5% Lycra
Yarn Count: 40s Combed – 20 Denier Lycra
Type of fabric produced: Dyed fabric
Width of fabric: 66” Open Width

Fabric Inspection System

Stallion garments follows the “4 point system” for inspection of fabrics.
This point-grading system is used followed for the purpose of determining fabric quality.
Fabric flaws and defects are assigned point values according to the length/width of defect
including the defects such as holes and openings taken in largest dimensions. Overall ,
the fabric quality is assessed on the basis of the number of defect points per 100yd² of
fabric.
Tests recommended for fabric
o Shrinkage
o Color Fastness
o Wet Rub
o Dry Rub
o Spirality
Fabric Defects
The company faces defects in fabric such as
o Holes [ cutting, sewing, packing ]
o Oil Marks [ during process ]
o Stains [ dirt or dust forming a temporary defect ]
o Color fly [ Mixing of a color thread during spinning ]
o Neps [ rare occurrence; entanglement of fibers]

Online Inspection System

12
 In this company, knitted fabric is being inspected in the grey stage and at
compacting stage. In the grey stage inspection is done during dyeing and during
production of fabric.

Forms issued to cutting department:

A quality check report will be produced by the Quality Inspector, the
report satisfying the above inspections. It is the duty of the fabric department to
dispatch the required amount of fabric to the cutting department on requisition.

Fabric Sourcing and Fabric center:

The fabric is sourced from the company’s external body. The center is located in
KVR Nagar – Dyeing.

4. Pattern Making and Sampling Department

13
Software: Investronica Systemas, LECTRA Company
The pattern is prepared by the pattern master. All the required patterns for that
particular style are fixed onto the Digitizer. An optical mouse is used to trace the pattern
in the computer. The base is drafted first [Medium].
Seam Allowances, a minimum of 1cm is given. This can be done along with the pattern
itself or added later after pattern making.
Stallion uses both 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional systems for grading. The usually do
it in 2-D then obtain the effect in 3-D.
7 – Start
0 – End, where it is started it has to end.
Grading is done in the computer itself. The measurements are entered accurately and
the graded patter is obtained. According to the buyer’s requirements the range of sizes are
taken. Usually S, M, L, X, XL.
Types of Sample:
Style Sample – acceptance from the buyer.
Photo sample - appearance
Production Sample – exact one – sent for direct production
Design Department:
This company deals only with export order. Therefore the style, design, method,
procedures, etc., are given by him. The company has the duty to select the type of
machinery and also change the arrangements as per the order from the buyer. Mostly
there will be change in the placement of machines in the sewing department.

[Specification Sheet and various other details relating to Pattern making

department is attached at the end.]

5. Cutting Department

14
Cutting Department Layout

15
Cut Pieces – Bundling area

Numbering Table Waste Stock

Fabric Stock

Spreader m/c
Fabric Stock

Spreader m/c Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock
Spreader m/c

Fabric Stock
Cutting Table

16
Depa
Fa
St
Ro
Fa
 Cut Pieces – Bundling area

Numbering Table Waste Stock

Fabric Stock

Spreader m/c
Fabric Stock

Spreader m/c Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock
Spreader m/c

Fabric Stock
Cutting Table

Department
Fabric
Stock
Roll
Fabric
Room
Lift

1 2 3 4 5 6

Fabric Manager
ERP Room
CAD Room
Cutting Manager
Fabric Accountant
Stores

Cut Order Planning Details:

17
 In this, the order number and the garment name have to be specified on the
top. The colors with different sizes are tabulated and the quantity is mentioned under the
heading “cutting received". Next step in this plan is to know how much of input is
needed. The output is also mentioned in this case. We get the total input and output for
the cutting. The number of pieces ready for packing is also mentioned. In this cutting
plan order, we get the Total Cutting, Total Input, Total Output and Total Packing sample .
[Cut Plan Order attached, Marker planning for various styles attached]
For various styles we can achieve different efficiencies. Proper planning
can lead to better marker efficiency.

Method of Spreading:

In this company, the method of spreading is Face to Face. We have the

automatic spreader along with motor drive and a driver seat with brake controls to spread
the lay. The fabric rolls are placed on the traveler. The cloth is now taken through several
guides maintaining tension evenly. There is a provision for the traveler to move along the
lay table. It is being constructed with rails which help in smooth movement from end to
end. The driver gets seated on his chair and moves along with the spreader. In case of any
distractions, he has the control to stop. He stops the machine when it reaches an end.
The lay height can be of maximum 5” and a length of 3½ meter. Care is
taken to achieve less wastage of material. The lay table is constructed with perforated
holes adding a special feature. The purpose is to maintain tension and slide the lay to the
cutting table easily without any distortion.
Machine: Mehala Annyst Bullmer Compact D600

Method of Cutting:
With an objective to meet the stiff competition in the garment industry and
to produce goods of highest quality and retain the best knitwear manufacturer and
exporter status, Stallion holds its name. With the latest computerized marker planning, up
to 85% efficiency could be achieved.

18
 Automatic Cutting machine is used. Straight knife machine is also used
commonly in this industry. In rare cases, band knife is being used for edging purposes.
Machine: Gurber Cutting Machine.

Assortment and Bundling:

Single size single color pieces are bundled together. A bundle consists of
50- 100 pieces. Tickets are placed for identification. The bundles are now carried to the
sewing department in trolley based conveying.

Production Capacity:
The production capacity of the cutting department is 5 lakh as whole. This
is for any style of garment. But the industry is able to produce only 1 lakh .The difference
is because of utilization of the company’s resources.

6. Sewing Department
Layout of Sewing Department

19
 Porch
Lift Porch
Fire Exit Fire Exit

Exit Exit

Sewing Section

Sewing Section

Packing Section

[8 in number]
Iron Tables
Needle
Checking Checking Detector
Sewing Section
Stock

Sewing Section

Packing Tables

Stain Remover

Exit Exit

Machinery Details
Types of Machine:
 Overlock Machine

20
 o 3 Thread Overlock
o 4 Thread Overlock
o 5 Thread Overlock
 Flatlock Machine
2 Types of Bed
 Circular Bed [ neck , sleeve ]
 Flat Bed [ general purpose ]

o Single Needle Flatlock

o Double Needle Flatlock
o 2 Thread Overlock
o 3 Thread Overlock
o 5 Thread Overlock
 Singer Machine
o Single Needle
o Double Needle
Manufacturers:
Germany make
Model no: [mentioned in machinery details on page 4]
According to the order, sewing procedure varies and the machines are movable.

Process Analysis for various styles of garments:

Operation Time for various Styles:

21
 Style : 1 : SLIM FIT T-SHIRT
GARMENT SEGMENTS
Front Panel – 1
Back Panel – 1
Sleeve – 2
Neck Rib [same as fabric]
CUTTING PROCEDURE:
The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in the spec
sheet. Sleeves are also being cut.
PROCESS ANALYSIS:
Shoulder Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
0.00.04.10
↓
Sleeve Attachment
5 Thread Overlock
0.00.15.80
↓
Label Attachment [neck]
Singer Single Needle
0.00.01.25
↓
Neck Tacking [self fabric - binding]
3 Thread Flatlock
0.00.22.05
↓
Sleeve Hem
3 Thread Flatlock
0.00.03.54
↓
Sides Attachment

22
 Attachment of Wash Care Label along
4 Thread Overlock
0.00.09.88
↓
Bottom Hem Finishing
3 Thread Flat Lock
0.00.16.10

 Style : 2 : MEN’S V-NECK

GARMENT SEGMENTS
Front Panel – 1
Back Panel – 1
Sleeve – 2
Patch and Reflect Band
Neck Rib
CUTTING PROCEDURE:
The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in the spec
sheet. Sleeves are also being cut. Another special piece is the reflect band and the patch
which is got from an external source.
PROCESS ANALYSIS:
Patch Attachment near shoulder
3 Thread Overlock
0.00.08.20
↓
Reflect Band Attachment
Singer
0.00.02.04
↓
Shoulder Join
3 Thread Overlock
0.00.04.31

23
 ↓
Sleeve Hem
3 Thread Flatlock
0.00.03.54
↓
Sleeve Attachment
3 Thread Overlock
0.00.16.53
↓
Sides Attachment
Attachment of Wash Care Label along
4 Thread Overlock
0.00.09.88
↓
Bottom Hem Finishing
3 Thread Flat Lock
0.00.17.04
↓
Neck Folding
Auto-folding Flatlock
0.00.22.05
↓
Making Notch
Singer
0.00.01.17
↓
Fusing Of Sticker
Automatic Machine
0.00.03.32
 Style : 3 : CAPRI PANT
GARMENT SEGMENTS:

24
 Front Panel – 2
Back Panel – 2
Pocket – 2
Elastic band
Eyelets
CUTTING PROCEDURE:
Two front panels and two back panels are cut according to the measurements in
the spec sheet. Sizes are graded accordingly. Two pockets are being cut.
PROCESS ANALYSIS:
Pocket Attachment
5 Thread Flat Lock
↓
Outer Seam Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Front and Back Rise Finish
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Inseam Finish
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Bottom Hem Finishing
3 Thread Flat Lock
↓
Elastic Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Eyelet Fixation
↓
Label Attachment
↓

25
 Twill Tape Insertion

 Style: 4: STALL HOOD SHIRT

GARMENT SEGMENTS:
Front Panel– 1
Side Panel – 2
Back Panel – 1
Raglan Sleeve – 2
Hood – 2
Cuff Rib, Neck Rib, Bottom Rib
Flat Label, Wash Care Label, Main Label
CUTTING PROCEDURE:
The front, side and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in the
spec sheet. Readymade ribs are available for the cuff, neck and bottom rib.
PROCESS ANALYSIS:
Attachment of Front and Back
Panels to Side panels with
Label Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Sleeve Construction – Cuff rib
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Sleeve Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Hoods Attachment
4 Thread Overlock
↓
Neck Finishing – Neck Rib
4 Thread Overlock

26
 ↓
Main Label Attachment
↓
Hanger Loop Attachment
↓
Bottom Hem Finishing
4 Thread Overlock
[The operation time for 2 garment styles were taken since only these two were on on
production]

Type of Inspections:
 Sewing thread inspection
Ply of the yarn is checked. Usually 3 ply is used in the industry. In rare cases 2
ply yarn is also being used.
 Operation Inspection
The Quality Assurance department is responsible for this. They see if the
machines are placed accordingly and check through the operations that are being carried
out.
 Protection
• Needle guard
This is one of the vital inspections done in the company in order to
safeguard the labors from hazardous situations. It is a glass protecting attached before the
needle so that when a needle breaks, it doesn’t harm the operator.
• Pulley Guard
This inspection is to check if there is a protective casing around the
pulley so as to ensure safety for the operator while working. This guard is made of steel
covering the belt.
 Measurement Inspection
Random inspection on any garment is done.
 Final Inspection

27
 In each line there are 12 seats. At the end of each line, a checking table has
been placed for the purpose of checking. Here the trimmings are done.
Material Handling:
Feeding section: Trolley
Manufacturing Unit: Utility Lifts – 3 floors serves the purpose only
Sewing Section: Manual movement using Line Tables
Trolley Capacity: 2000 pieces
Till finished goods this materials is handled using trolleys.
Service Table:
There exist feeding tables wherein the boxes are prepared the previous day
containing all the parts required for a garment along with its accessories.
Bins – Overlock machine has got a trimmer which does the edge trimming
automatically. The dust is directly sent through a passage to the bin which is placed
below.
Cut pieces are also being carried using bins. Sintex bins are used in the feed
section .That was how the pieces were brought from the cutting section.
No Hangers system is being followed in this industry.

Accessories:
 Sewing Thread
• Fiber Content -3 ply polyester 150 Denier
• Size - 5000mts cone
• Ticket Number - Madhura Coats
• Special Finish - White Oil Finish serves lubrication reducing friction
carried out during winding of yarn.
 Closures
• Button:
 Specifications -2 hole
Button diameter - 14L , 16L , 18L
Thickness - 3mm

28
 Color - Dye to match [DTM]
 Wholesale traders
RK Buttons
Bangalore Sales Corporation
 Manufacturer’s Cost
1 Gross = 144 buttons
1 Gross of 2 hole buttons = Rs.10
 Supplier Cost = Rs.17
• Zippers:
 Specifications:
Aluminum and Plastic
Types:
Zipper Type
Spring Type
Method of Attachment:
Visible and Invisible method
Size: As per the requirement of the customer/buyer.
Suppliers:
Imported zips. China Make Hong Kong Supply
Bangalore Sales Corporation
Manufacturer’s Cost
Per inch = 40 paisa
Supplier Cost = 60 paisa
• Interlining Material:
 Specifications
1. Woven [sticky]
2. Non-woven [non-sticky]
3. Micro Dot Foam [doesn’t appear thick but has sufficient thickness
100% polyester]
Supplier:
Bangalore Sales Corporation

29
 Manufacturer’s Cost
Per yard = Rs.10
Supplier Cost = Rs.12
• Labels :
[i] Main Label
[ii] Size Label
[iii] Wash Care Label
[iv] Tab Label [pocket side]
[v] Flag Label [sides of the garment]
Quality:
1. Woven/printed [tuffeta]
2. Polyester
3. Tuffeta
4. Damask [woven]
Suppliers:
Bangalore, Bombay, Chennai
Manufacturer’s Cost
Woven 1 sq.inch = 18paisa
Tuffeta printed = 2paisa
Supplier Cost
Woven 1 sq.inch = 25 paisa
Tuffeta printed = 5paisa
• Other Accessories used in Industry:
 Laces
 Satin ribbons
 Satin elastic
 Ready-made piping
 Badge [woven]leather
 All over embroidery/chest printing

30
7. STANDARD TEST FOR FABRIC AND GARMENTS
1. Electronic Crock-o- meter
Machine Name: Crock-O-Meter (Motorized).
Company: Innovative Eng.Tech (P) Ltd.
Code & S.No. : Ecm-03-04 & 03.
Test: Color Fastness to Crocking.
Test Method: Iso-105-*12-1984.
Dia of Finger: 16mm.
Code of Finger: 900grams.
Diameter of the Finger: 16mm+1
Load On The Finger: 900g
Length of the Travel Finger: 100*3mm
Size of the Test Specimen: 200*50mm.

Procedure:
Wet Rub:
The rubbing cloth [5*5cm] is dropped in a distilled water tub and squeezed in
order to ensure a 100% moisture take up. Then the cloth is fixed in the finger of the crock
meter.10 strokes are done then dried in room temperature.
Dry Rub:
The rubbing cloth [5*5cm] is fixed in the finger of the crock meter and rubbed for
10 strokes per 10 seconds. The length of travel of finger is 10cm.
Rating:
The color staining of wet and dry rub is assessed with the help of grey scale ISO
105-A03 standards or using Spectrophotometer.

2. Perspirometer
Size of the specimen = 10cm*4cm
Force of the specimen = 5kgs
Size of acrylic plates = 12.5cm*6.5cm
No. of acrylic plates = 16
Procedure:
 Cut the test specimen 10*4cm and also cut 10cm*4cm of multifiber fabric.
 Attach multifiber fabric to test specimen. This is composite specimen.

31
 Thoroughly wet the composite specimen in demineralised water at room temperature
for 30minutes.remove excess water and place between another set of acrylic plates.
o Note: Acrylic plates are used since they help in easy evaporation.
 Switch on the hot air oven and set the temperature to 37ºC.
 Place the composite specimen between 2 acrylic plates. Place the plates in
Perspirometer with the weight piece of 5kgs on top. A number of composite
specimens can be tested at the same time, but make sure that only one composite
specimen is placed between the two acrylic plates. Tighten the screws and remove the
weight piece.
 Leave the Perspirometer in the hot air oven for 4 hours.
 After 4 hours, the specimens are removed from the hot air oven and dried at room
temperature.
 Assess the color change of tested fabric with the help of grey scale [ISO 105 A02],
AATCC Standards or spectrophotometer.

3. Washing fastness Tester

Serial no.: L006055
Volts: 230*15
Procedure:
 Cut the test specimen 10*4cm and also cut 10cm*4cm of multifiber fabric.
 Attach multifiber fabric to test specimen. This is composite specimen.
 According to the buyer’s required temperature. Temperatures given vary from 45ºC –
60ºC
Chemicals Used: ECE Phosphate + Sodium Perborate
 In this tester there will be 12 beakers provision. We put our specimen in any beaker
for testing.
 10 stainless balls are added. Usually according to ISO standards it is requested to put
25 balls but this is what the buyer requires.
 For 30 minutes, it is allowed to wash.
 Then dried using Hot air oven for 30 minutes and sent for ant tests.

32
4. Drying:
Machine: Hot air oven
Temperature: 105ºC
Time: 30 minutes

5. pH Test
Company: ELICO.LTD
Type: 003
S.No: 6342/J++10
Standard: AATCC 81
pH: 10
Procedure:
 Take 10gms of the test specimen and cut into tiny pieces.
 Take 250ml of demineralised water in a glass beaker and boil it for 10minutes.
 Collect the tiny pieces and put in the beaker .boil for an additional 10minutes.
 Now, cool it to room temperature.
 Measure with the help of the electronic pH meter directly.

6. Shrinkage Test
RH: 65±2
Temperature: 20±1ºC
Procedure:
 Washing is done to the specimen firstly.
 The specimen is now conditioned in the conditioning room for 4 hours.
 Again the sample is washed.
 Sent for tumble drying and again conditioned.
 There exists a Shrinkage template of size 350mm*350mm, set according to AATCC
Standards. Template made of acrylic.
Formulae: shrinkage = 100 * before wash – after wash/ before wash

33
7. Spirality Test:
Specimen circumference: 11.2cm
GSM Cutter available.
Spirality can be checked the similar way to shrinkage test. here it is the stretching of the
specimen unlike shrinking. It is measured either in angle or in percentage.
Formulae: Spirality: AC + BD * AC – BD *100

Color matching Cabinet:

Machine: Verivide
Make: Switzerland
4 light option buttons:
• D65 [ Europe ]
• TL 84 [ US ]
• Filament [ US ,Cool white fluorescent]
• UV Light
This difference in choices is because of the various light settings in the show rooms.
Color Matching Software: 3.0 Macbeth.

Pantone Color Samples:

Shades are made of textile cotton or textile paper solution.
All colors are available in a form of record. Accepted internationally;
All the tests required are done internally. The quality inspector will check the test
reports finally.

[A test report is attached at the end as reference including the care

labeling details as well]

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8. Quality Control
With an aim to produce quality products, Stallion Garments takes
measures in controlling quality at various stages. Inspection with reference to Quality
Control in the apparel industry is defined as “a visual examination or review of raw
materials (such a fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing threads, trims, etc.), partially finished
components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if
they meet the required measurements.
The Apparel Export Promotion Council [AEPC], Inter tech Testing
Service [ITS] and SGS Testing Service is being followed in industry.
Inspection is done at three main stages:
 Raw Material Inspection
 In-Process Inspection
 Final Inspection
Raw Material Inspection:
• Yarn Stage:
CSP, Twist, Strength Test, Counts Test is being carried out.
 Knitting Mistakes – Oil stains/holes
 Dyeing – Patches/Streaks
• Before Fabric Inspection:
 Shrinkage : -5%
 Color Fastness : 3 level
 Spirality : <5%
• Fabric Inspection:
 Color Yarn/ Dead Cotton/Slub/Thick and thin
Yarn/Patches/Streaks
If this inspection is considered fine, then, they go for the
Size Set Approval

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  Size – Set Approval :
One piece in all sizes is made is sent for approval. If the
buyer is satisfied, then cutting process is started.
Fabric Inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machines. These
machines are designed so that the rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection
table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table. The person selected
should have a good view so that he can locate the defects easily and rectify those at an
early stage. In this inspection table, the fabric need not be reversed to detect the defects.
The operator pulls the fabric over the table for inspecting, i.e. it is done manually. The
defects are being located, marked, and recorded on an inspection form. The machine
gives accurately the length of each roll of fabric as well as monitoring the width of fabric.
Accessory Inspection:
 Sewing threads [ Construction and Sewability which includes
Imperfections, Finish, Color, Package Density, Winding and
Yardage]
 Zippers [ Dimensions, Stops fastened securely , Color, Wrinkling
or Puckering effect, Washable, Pull tab , Easy movement of slider ]
 Buttons [ large clean sew holes, Location of holes, Thickness,
Color or Shade, Laundering ,Dry-cleaning, Pressing without any
changes such as cracks, melting or change in color ]
 Interlining
Online Inspection:
This is the inspection of parts before they are assembled into a complete product.
This type of inspection is being carried out at various points in the entire manufacturing
process from spreading fabric to pressing/finishing. A report is being prepared and
submitted.
Online Inspection is being carried out by the quality inspectors. Each production
operation performed correctly makes for a smooth running plant with low operating
costs. Carried out various stages:
o Spreading [ Ply alignment, Ply tension, Bowing, Splicing ,Static Charges,
Pattern Alignment ]

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 o Cutting [Frayed edges, Ply-ply fusion, Pattern precision, Notches,
Drilling, Single-edge fusion]
o Sewing [Inspection of work from each operator, with quality standard
established to limit the amount of bad work permitted and a provision for
the operators to re-inspect and repair entire bundles, carried out randomly]
o Pressing/Finishing [ Burned or scorched garments, Water spots , Stains,
Color, Broken zippers, buttons , Improper creases , Smoothness, Pockets,
Shrinkage, Improper drying, Wavy edges ]
A good benefit to the company:
Stallion Garments has recorded a reduction of 60% in repair labor costs,
and a drop in the % of seconds reduced from 3% to 1%, after installing a properly
designed online quality control program a few years back. Fewer returns due to poor
quality saved the company time, and money in its distribution centers.
They have the pilot run inspection system as well. Here, around 25 pieces
are randomly checked by an external inspector. At the end of each line, there is a
checking table which serves the purpose of checking the trims. This is done by individual
operators themselves. An In-Line inspection report and Mid-Inspection report is
produced after inspection.
Acceptable Quality Level:
Statistical Sampling technique is being followed in Stallion Garments.
AQL is the maximum % defective that for the purpose of sampling can be considered
satisfactory. Usually expressed in %, means that by using the sampling plan on the
average, the lots or batches accepted will not contain x% defective.
These are 4 main levels followed in Apparel Industry. This level is given
by the buyers. The levels are;
1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0
Suppose the buyer requests the company for an AQL 2.5, it means that not more
than 2.5% of the products in the lot should be defective. The company will consider it as
1.5, i.e., the previous level. This is to be precautious in not exceeding the rejection
number. This will be followed by the in-line inspectors.

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 Sample size code letter is selected and normal inspection: single sampling or
double sampling table is looked for.

Final Inspection:

A pre-final inspection is being carried out, followed by the final inspection. This
consists of inspecting finished garments from the consumers’ point of view, in this case
the buyers’ point of view. Final Inspection is being carried at the end of production
before shipmen when atleast 80% of the consignment is finally packed. It is performed
according to the International Standards.
The size measurements and form fitting is the main aspect to be checked in this
inspection. This inspection can be carried out before the garments are being packed in
poly-bags and boxes or an external inspector may check after it is being packed
randomly. In such cases, proper size and style markings on the package is being checked
in the garment including a table of finished measurements .The design, style, accessories,
measurements, packing ,etc are being inspected.
The Quality plan or documented procedures for final inspection and testing shall
require that all specified inspection and tests, including those specified either on receipt
of product or in-process, have been carried out and that the results meet specified
requirements. Only if the garment satisfies all the elementary procedures, the goods are to
be dispatched.

Yarn Test Report

Lab Dip Approval [2.5cm * 2.5cm]

Fabric GSM Approval

Size set approval and Accessories approval

Packing Material approval

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 [Carton, Garment Fold – Tissue, Cardboard, Photo]

Carton Sticker [printed]

The pieces are randomly inspected according to sampling technique and

inspected by the quality Inspector. The defective pieces are accepted if they are within
the AQL level. They are given the grading as;
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Poor [lot is rejected]

Cost and Freight

[Company is responsible for the goods till the gate only. The rest is taken up by the
buyer]

In-house Stuffing also done

[Central Excise takes in charge – 4 Lorries]

Bill Of Lading
[After a day of dispatch]
The company will wait for a high rate for the foreign currency then do the in-
house stuffing and call for the Central Excise. That day’s market value is entered as the
final rate in foreign currency. A small profit to the organization!!!

39
9. FINISHING DEPARTMENT:
Operations involved from Garment construction to Dispatch
Garment Construction

Checking

Final Checking

Ironing

Tagging / Stickering

Poly Bag Packing

Carton Box Packing

[Assorted/Unassorted according to the buyer’s requirements]

Inspection
 The supervisor has to collect the order file from the section head to study the details
of packing.
 Pressmen and helpers are called for a demo by the supervisor as to how the finishing
has to be done for the given style.
 Pressmen have to maintain uniformity in folding irrespective of its size to suit the
individual polybags.
 Assorting and packing should be done as per the packing ratio in order file.
Pressing Machinery:
Name: Flat Bed
Purpose: Ironing any part of garment
Make: Ram sons and Meghala

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 Made in India
Special Attachments:
It has got a air sucking provision in the table. A steam iron is present. As
the steam is being sprayed, the table will suck it leaving the fabric dry. This is done using
the foot pedal. Steam passing pipe is protected with rope.
Manual ironing is done. There are 20 pressing machines available.
Weight of iron: 400gms
Folding Specifications:
1. Tissue Paper Packing
2. Inner Board Packing
3. Hanger Packing [ 20hangers in 1 master bag]
4. Photo card packing
Packing Procedure:
• Individual Poly Bag Packing
• Master Pack
• 2 pack , 3 pack, 5 pack
After this, the bags are now put into carton boxes by using the specific tools. Wedge
pack machine helps in ceiling the opening.
Packing Materials:
 Poly Bag [ with ceil king ]
 Tissue paper
 Inner board
 Reference Tag
 Sticker
 Cello-tape
 Pouch poly bag with button
Carton Details:
Carton boxes are got from external sources. The weight is 200gsm.quality of
paper is also chosen [either Vergian/non-vergian].
It contains the following details;

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 Buyer’s Address
Goods Description
Net wt. gross wt.
Carton Number
On the other side
Carton measurements: l*b*h
Ratio of Packing: Assorted packing is done. One color and one size in one box.
Say for eg; 50 Small six pieces, 50 Medium size pieces of one color and one size in one
box.
25, 50, 75,100 are the numbers kept standard.

Special Machines in various Departments:

 Air Flat Lock [ auto trimmer – sucks the trims and passes it through a passage leading
to the bin – continuous running - auto maintenance – dust cleaning ]
 Sensor [ auto cutter – senses any mistakes during sewing operations ]
 Checking Machine [ pyramid shaped – tube light inside – hole detection ]
 Trimming Machine [ before checking- after garment construction – gives a shudder
when any trims are in contact – blade provision – sucks ]
 Wedge Pack machine
 Needle Detector machine
 Bar tack machine
 Collar Attachment
 Label Fusing Machine
 Carton Packing machine [ strapping the carton ]
 Easy loading of containers onto vans
 Elastic Attachment Machine

[List is also being attached]

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10. Production Planning and Control
Schedule:
Company begins its work at 8.30 AM
10.00AM - Tea break 15minutes interval
12.45PM - Lunch Break
1.30 PM – Work commences
3.00PM – Tea break
5.45PM – Shift Closes
Weekly twice Over Time [OT] is allowed. If a worker works for 2 hours
during OT hours, them he will be prone to get double salary.
 The style picture and specification sheet details are issued to pattern making
department.
 Lab dips and print or embroidery are developed for buyer’s approval
 Order details to CAD are issued for marker and consumption.
 Order details are given to manufacturer to book yarn or trims based on the
requirements.
 Order details are issued to the Sewing department for production planning and
sequence
 Pilot run inspection check is done and the test results are checked.
 After grade approvals(sizes) the sealer samples(print/emb) are arranged for buyer’s
approval
 The garment quality is checked in pre-mid and final stages periodically.
 Export documents are prepared for the endorsement and shipping.
Shipment:
45 – 60 Days for any order. This time is followed strictly in Stallion Garments.

43
If it goes above 60 days, then the goods are to be delivered by the air and the cost falls on
the manufacturer. Letter of Credit is given for surety.

Line Balancing
This is essential in order to set the flow through each operation to be as similar as
possible .Also to check from time to time how things are going on and to make
adjustments to even out the flow again. In order to fulfill these, an effective planning of
knowledge of the garments manufactured and the way in which production can be
sectionalized as well as the capacity of the work place is essential.
We have floaters placed at each line who acts as substitutes when a work gets
delayed or it is not in progress.

Plant Loading:
Each of the workers will be assigned work equally. Usually the company will ask
each line, say, to produce 2000pieces in one day. The quality controller or Line
supervisor will take in-charge. If the worker is not able to complete his job, then he has to
work extra hours. This is not the incentive since it is his fault.

Product Acceptance Sampling:

 Pattern Approval
 Size Set Sample [ size, color, etc,. still packing , according to buyer specification]
 Initial Production Check
 Buyer Author representatives.

Record Maintenance:
 Attendance record [ Finger thumbing ]
4 machines used for recording the finger prints. Located at each floor, allows workers
only when their finger print matches with their original input.
 Feeding Input/Output Record
This includes the labor and the material input. Using computerized software, ERP
entry software, this is recorded.

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 Stitching Input/Output Record
o Goods received note[GR Note ]
 Packing Input/Output Record
 Container Delivery note
 Materials Inward/Outward
 Salary record [ each worker department wise – under the control of HRD]
 Provident fund record
 Machinery maintenance record
 Stores Record
 Vehicle Maintenance record [ 2 wheelers and 4 wheelers]
 Asset record
 General Service record [water, electricity, etc.]
 Visitor’s Record

Software’s in Production Planning and Control:

Cutting Department: AutoCAD Lectra, Gurber
Sewing Department to Container/Finishing Department: ERP Sap Software
The details cannot be traced out. One cannot enter anything of one’s own
wish.

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11. Administrative Aspects
[The human resources allotment attached]
Procedure for receiving the order:
In Stallion Garments, they have direct contact with buyers. The buyer will send a
specification sheet, popularly known as the spec sheet, with all the necessary details.

46
 Price

Negotiation

Finalization

Sample
Satisfaction

Factory
Inspection [any
agent]

Acceptance

Order
placement

Company visit
by buyer

Production

If it is a new contact, then we can get the buyer details such as his performance,
loans, etc., from AEPC through internet facility. The owner might be prone to visit the
buyer in his country for maintaining a good relationship.

Dispatching Formalities Procedure:

47
Export Officer

Order sheet, LC requisition, LC Receipt Request from finishing department for

Endorsement Endorsement preparation (invoice, shipping bill filed with AEPC)

Cargo movement message (ready for shipment) Customs documentation

preparation

Filing with customs Preparation of GSP approved by the textile committee

Original document to buyer (air/sea) Bank Attested invoice

Feeder Vessel Mother Vessel

[Tutukorin port] [Bombay Port]
In a span of 15 days, the goods will reach the buyer’s country. It can be
dispatched by sea or by air. The same procedure the buyer will follow to receive his
goods. If it goes above 60 days, then the goods are to be delivered by the air and the cost
falls on the manufacturer. Letter of Credit is given for surety.

Merchandiser:

Objectives:
 To co-ordinate with the customers or buyers and suppliers.
 To execute the order according to the requirements of buyer’s Specification on time.

48
 To consistently maintain and improve the quality.
He takes care of Purchasing of Raw Materials [yarn, fabrics],
Dyeing/printing, and lab test for shades, trims and accessories.

Roles played by merchandiser:

 On receipt of orders, Contract Planning review (CPR) or Time and Action Plan is
prepared by him within 4 days after confirmation.
 Prepares the fit samples and sends them for buyer’s approval.
 He incorporates all the comments received from the buyer and quality assurance
department.
 Order details including Material Requirements are provided to relevant departments
for product realization. He prepares the material Requirement Planning and Sales
Confirmation.
 He takes part in marketing.
 He communicates the price to the buyers in their respective currency and negotiating
till order finalization.
 Merchandiser monitors the progress of all activates.
 He confirms that the fabric and the garment meet the customer’s Quality requirement
and Standards.
 He arranges meeting with the buyer to stress the importance of process sequence,
quality and the delivery date.
 Conducts the performance review meeting.
 He is in-charge of garment costing.

12. PHOTO GALLERY

VARIOUS GARMENT STYLES

49
SEWING AND CUTTING

50
PRINTING AND EMBROIDERY

CHECKING AND PACKING

51
 QUALITY CHECK AND STANDARD TESTING

13. CONCLUSION

52
 In this Training Programme, we had a thorough study of the
various departments in the apparel industry. The functions and working were also
studied. The company’s set up, their goals, various other aspects which we thought was
important were dealt with. From the raw material to the final garment processes were
gone through in detail.
This visit proved to be a very useful one. We are now aware of the
various activities taking place around an apparel industry. We feel grateful to our college
PSG College of Technology for giving us an opportunity to undergo this Training
Programme.

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