travel guide

How to Do > Molokai
“Rustic charm meets tropical paradise on Molokai.
And the people here are some of the warmest, most
colorful friends I’ve ever met traveling. This may
not be the Hawaiian island for everyone — but it
was ­definitely the one for me.” — adrienne e g o l f, ed i tor
Drink Coffee protected national park. You’ll
D ay Fly 25 minutes from make several stops — Mother • Kalaupapa National Park
Maui to Molokai on Marianne’s grave, St. Francis Purdy’s Mac Nut Farms •

1
board Mokulele Airlines
or Island Air. Enjoy your
first views of Molokai’s
world-famous sea cliffs.
I made sure to heed the sign
that visitors see when exiting
the island’s airport: “Slow Down,
This is Molokai.”
There are only a few roads on
the small island. Head toward
Coffees of Hawaii, a plantation
and espresso bar, to order your
first of many Mocha Mamas. The
beloved chocolaty iced coffee
drink is the unofficial beverage
of the island — for good reason.
Eat dinner at the Kualapu‘u
Cookhouse. If it’s Thursday, it’s
prime-rib night, so don’t even
look at the menu. Order the
special — a huge slab of beef
cooked to order and served with
rice and grilled veggies — and
choose the papaya-seed dress-
ing for your garden salad.
Head 30 minutes west on the
only road toward Maunaloa, and
check into the Molokai Komo-
hana B&B. Your hosts, Tom and
Karyl Rancour, will be waiting up
to welcome you.
Ride a Mule
D ay Meet the paniolos at
Molokai Mule Ride in
Church — but the highlight is
St. Father Damien’s seaside
grave. At the end of the tour, your
mules will carry you back up to
the top of the trail.
Freshen up and then head to
the Hotel Molokai, just east of
downtown Kaunakakai. Friday
night is Kupuna Night when the
island’s elders break out ukule-
les and perform for diners at the
property’s oceanfront restaurant.
After dinner, stop for ­another
Mocha Mama at Coffees of
­Hawaii. (Great any time of day.)
You’ll be glad you fueled up
on caffeine; at 10 p.m., Kane-
mitsu’s Bakery and Coffee Shop
begins selling hot, freshly baked
Molokai bread. Walk down the
­alley just to the right of the
­bakery and look for the hand-
painted sign — or the line of
people. A huge loaf slathered in
two toppings is $5.75.
Scuba Dive
D ay You can meet Tim
3
from Molokai Fish &
Dive at the Kaunakakai
Harbor. Ask to see the
Big Turtle House for an
all but guaranteed sea-turtle
sighting. Or let Tim explore new
sites and see what you discover
•
Papohaku Beach • •
• Airport
Komohana
B&B
The Facts PASSPORT NEEDED > No
official language > English WHEN TO GO > May for dry, balmy
weather and a historic hula festival Local drink > Mocha Mama
Kalele Bookstore. Choose a
dried coconut with an outlined
drawing and ask owner Teri for
her stash of markers. When
you’re finished, you can mail the
coconut to someone back home,
all for about $15. I sent one to
the islands office. Way better
than a postcard.
Stop by Purdy’s Nuts for
a short walking tour of the
macadamia-nut farm. Buy a sack
of uncracked nuts; it comes with
a handy foam ring to make crack-
ing them open very easy.
You’re right around the corner
from Coffees of Hawaii, so
stop by for jazz night to enjoy
the company of locals — and a
Mocha Mama for dessert.
Hike Halawa Valley
D ay Join Molokai Out-
doors for a cultural hike
Halawa •
Kualapuu
Coffees of Hawaii
molokai
• Kauanakakai
CURRENCY > U.S. dollars
on the history — but remember
to bring your own lunch. This full-
day adventure isn’t an easy hike.
Back in Kaunakakai, eat an
early dinner at Molokai Pizza
Cafe. It’s the only place on the
island to get a pizza pie — and
one of the only spots that will be
open on a Sunday evening.
On your way back to ­Komohana,
stop and watch the sunset at
Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove. Just
beware of falling coconuts.
Hit the Beach
D ay Ask Tom to make
his famous banana-
5 and-macadamia-nut
pancakes for breakfast.
Pack a cooler with
cold drinks and snacks. Tom and
Karyl can lend you a reliable
map of the west-coast beaches
and point out the best spots

2 front of their stable at

8 a.m. There are only
two ways to get down
with him. He might even let you
name the dive site.
You’ll be hungry after the dive,
4 through the Halawa
­Valley on the east side
of the island. This lush,
to snorkel (Dixie Maru Beach),
picnic (Kaupoa Beach) and take
a stroll (Papohaku Beach). jonah ego l f

to the Kalaupapa peninsula: If
you choose to hike, get ready for
a long, muddy day. Opt for the
mule ride, and all you have to do
is let your mule do its thing — it
knows the 26 switchbacks down
to Kalaupapa National Histori-
cal Park better than you do, so
there’s no need to be nervous on
this steep descent.
At the bottom of the trail,
board the bus with Damien Tours,
the only operator permitted to
lead groups through this fiercely
so have a hamburger, fries and
a shake at Molokai Burger in
downtown Kaunakakai.
Stroll down the street to
mountainous area is the site of Stop at Coffees of Hawaii and
the oldest recorded settlement order one last Mocha Mama for
on Hawaii. Tour guide and busi- the road. You’ll have to speed up
ness owner Clare will fill you in again for the flight back home.
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88
 How to Do  of Port Elizabeth for a proper pub crawl; the
> Grenadines
“Many travelers do the BVI
sailing tour, but I think this
Grenadines route is even
more memorable, more
beautiful, more true to the
old Caribbean we love.”
— j ohn brad l ey, contr i but i n g ed i tor
D ay Start Relaxing on Canouan
The Moorings cruise of the Grena-
1 dines departs from Canouan. So
first I flew to Barbados (you can stay
overnight at the Crane, if you like). Then I
took a ferry to Canouan, famous for Raffles
Canouan and its spa with glass-floor treat-
ment rooms set over the water. Linger there.
Set Sail for Bequia
D ay
Board the Moorings cruise, where
2 Capt. Simon Goodhead and fiancée/
first mate Louise Cole take care of
everything. First stop: Bequia, perhaps the
Grenadines most socially vibrant island.
There are enough bars along the waterfront
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bustling fruit market is a must-shop — and a
must-eat is the lobster pizza at Mac’s.
Drink Up Mustique
D ay
The sailing cruise continues farther
3 south to Mustique and legendary
­Basil’s Bar. I’m still dreaming about
the frozen Mustique drinks. But after, you’ll
find yourself drawn to Macaroni Beach, with
a long stretch of white sand. It’s walkable,
but you’re better off buying a ride from
one of the taxi drivers by the dock. Climb
the hillside at the south end of the beach
for a bird’s-eye view. If you want to spend
the night, Firefly is a great treehouse-style
­boutique hotel on the more lively west side.
D ay Eat Up the Tobago Cays
Upon arrival here, there’s a good
4 chance that Romeo, a boat boy, will
show you the fresh lobster you’ll have
for dinner that night. You can be sure to work
up an appetite by snorkeling along the reef
and in the protected sea-turtle lagoon.
D ay Get to Mopion Early
Here’s the thing about Mopion — it’s
5 almost too awesome. Essentially a
hump of pure white sand in the sea, it
has just one permanent thatched umbrella
that’s set near its highest point. If you want
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• Beachfront location & 5 min. from downtown shopping.
• 46 spacious deluxe units all face the beach. Rates
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• Private balconies, kitchens, A/C, free WiFi by the
pool, & more!
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ST. CROIX
THE PALMS AT PELICAN COVE
• Top Rated St. Croix Hotel on TripAdvisor!
• 40 spacious beachfront rooms each with a view,
breeze and private patio
• Large beautiful beach with great snorkeling
• Award winning staff, restaurant and bar
800-548-4460 • www.palmspelicancove.com
Mopion to yourself, make sure the captain
plans to arrive just after sunrise. It’s your
only chance. Take it.
Settle into Union Island
D ay
As you enter Clifton Harbor, Janti’s
6 Happy Island greets you. It looks like
a floating patio. You should stop by
for a beer. On Union, look for some hand-
painted signs on the main road poking out
of the bushes just past Evergreen Cafe. This
is the entrance I found to Costello Paradise,
the confederation of bars and art that cul-
minates with the hilltop Pelican Bar and the
best happy-hour view in the Grenadines.
D ay Swim off Mayreau
With a population of 300, Mayreau
7 barely feels inhabited. Climb to the
church at the island’s highest point to
see the wide-open view. Say goodbye to the
Grenadines with a swim in Salt Whistle Bay.
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islands.com/grenadines
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ST. THOMAS
WINDWARD PASSAGE HOTEL
• Centrally located in Charlotte Amalie
• Walking distance to duty free shops, historical sights,
restaurant, entertainment and nightlife
• Take our complimentary shuttle to World Famous
Magens Bay Beach
• Fresh water pool, fitness center, full service spa & salon
800-524-7389 • www.windwardpassage.com
ST. THOMAS
SECRET HARBOUR BEACH RESORT
• Oceanfront suites, fully equipped
• Private beach, perfect for wedding, honeymoon
• Tennis, pool, dive/water sports onsite
• Seaside restaurant & bar
800-524-2250 • www.secretharbourvi.com

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to the Bahama Out Islands*
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Valentines Resort, Marina and Beach Club
Harbour Island
Unparalleled suite accommodations, state of the art ma-
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make Valentines the most memorable of all getaways!
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Stella Maris Resort Club
long Island
Superb beaches and water sports; beautiful rooms-cottages-
bungalows; attentive services and old fashioned hospitality;
on tranquil Long Island, in the mid-southern Bahamas.
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Small Hope Bay Lodge
andros Island
Totally All-Inclusive! Celebrating 50 years!
21 Beachfront Cottages. Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing,
Nature Tours & More... Packages Available.
www.smallHope.com • 800-223-6961
Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort & Villas
long Island
Untouched…undiscovered…barefoot elegance in a
Caribbean paradise. Enjoy luxurious beachfront
accommodation, sumptuous cuisine, ocean adventures
and mile after mile of silky sand beach.
www.capesantamaria.com • 1-800-663-7090
Fernandez Bay Village
caT Island baHamas
Discover the breath taking beauty and relaxed atmosphere
of Fernandez Bay Village. 12 beachfront cottages on a mile
of sugary white sand, outdoor dining, tiki-bar, water sports.
www.fernandezbayvillage.com
1-800-940-1905 or 1-954-474-4821
www.reservations.myoutislands.com 866-689-5505
Treasure Cay Hotel Resort & Marina
abaco
Known for its powdery 3½ mile beach & un-crowded, laid-
back atmosphere. It’s the ideal base for island hopping, fish-
ing, boat rentals, scuba diving, snorkeling & water-sports.
www.Treasurecay.com • 800-327-1584
Staniel Cay Yacht Club
THe exumas
Soothe your body, mind and soul with small island charm.
Your balcony will literally overhang the clearest waters in
the world. Come experience the Exumas.
www.stanielcay.com • 954-467-8920
Green Turtle Club Resort and Marina
abaco
Unspoiled, powder soft, white sand beaches, crystal clear
waters, relaxing atmosphere, luxury accommodations,
world class cuisine and modern amenities.
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Cape Eleuthera Resort & Yacht Club
eleuTHera
Nestled on a private 4300-acre beach preserve with the
Bahamas largest watersports program. Pristine beaches,
luxury oceanview townhomes & dive center.
Ranked #2 of all 373 Bahamas Hotels.
www.capeeleuthera.com • 888-270-9642
Pigeon Cay
caT Island baHamas
A remote piece of paradise, the cottages offer the ultimate
in seclusion and breathtaking views. Located steps from a
private 3-mile stretch of white, powdery sand beach.
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242-354-5084
travel guide
How to Do 
> Mentawai
“Outside of talking with the
shamans, the best way to
experience these Indonesian
islands is with a surfboard.”
— E ddy Patri ce l l i , ed i tor
D ay Check into the Kandui Resort
For this remote region, travel options
1 are limited to charter boats and surf
resorts. Of the latter, the Kandui Resort
is considered the Cadillac.The all-inclusive
sits on its own private island, can arrange your
travel and hosts just 16 guests at a time.The
resort’s umas (Mentawai huts) offer air condi-
tioning, hot water and Wi-Fi. But I mainly just
slept there.The resort’s lodge and the daily surf
excursions to nearby islands are the big draw.
D ay Surf Safely
Wake up, apply sunscreen and enjoy a
2 traditional egg breakfast or a local one
called Nasi Goreng.Then hop on one
of two boats headed out for the morning surf
session.There are 16 surf spots accessible by
canoe from Kandui’s lodge that offer waves for
any skill level. I started on the smaller breaks
first. Regardless of where you go, surf guides
join you, each of whom are trained paramedics
— a huge comfort so far from civilization.
D ay Repeat, Repeat, Repeat
Savor the daily surf routine of morning
3-8 and afternoon surf sessions with meals
in between.The staff can also arrange
other activities — such as touring a nearby
village or snorkeling or fishing.
D ay Explore and Meet Shamans
Jump in a skiff to explore the Dead
9 Forest, a field of uprooted trees in
the swampy interior. Or hop in a boat
headed to villages in the heart of Siberut. To
meet shamans, well, they come to you. The
shamans stop in to entertain guests at the
Kandui Resort with traditional dances. Join in
and — if you dare — ask them about souls.
D ay Get a Souvenir
Wood crafts abound. To fly home
10 with a paddle, conceal its spear-like
­appearance with cardboard. Prep for
questions. Remind yourself this keepsake’s
soul is now connected to yours. Treasure it.
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2 Launch it and hold P
the phone over this tag.I
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islands.com/mentawai
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