A ON en es ans How to do More with Your Bench Grinder OMe) (3 0 ee Set-Up D ees Rae Finally, A Table Saw Splitter You'll FUER en ‘A Publication of August Home PublishingIssue 76 July/August 2004 Puptisuen Donald B. Poschke worron Torry J. Strohman associarsepiTors Bryan Nelson Vincent Ancona Assistant epirons Phil Huber Ron Johnson. apromecror Cary Christensen srenapuicoesionen Jamie Downing SENIORILLUSTRATOR Roger Reiland ugustraroRs David Kallemyn Peter J. Larson tice Dir Ted Kes Pet Dreger Hn Mex, sai yi Ch eS Ctr ena Seine Pine nara ‘itonPrecnee Porat Dean Sr es Dh One ‘Boimane 8: Edler Gag eosqge= as Bir oad Bese On Dc any Bum» Ce MartinD: Was. ‘aghast: Po eta ore ering Asai ae Wau ee ies age Roger Cre ting Ate ns or ie ulnar rope Dern Bala ‘Seid Shae ‘conronAre eanvices Vaca chr Cin Crete SL ‘et Rasen ie fe lr Nae Lain Pei ie Roel «ai tp Soe ven “Ho Be Seon SSN xn pe ot an, a, Dis Ege Sry eg fone Ping m0) Dee Secon tm Scere ere ee Se ‘Gama uberis: ara area Suc. ‘Senleaneeatbesstrae tod mies os Seu enermannnrae Suir nes nae ‘wor ShopNotes.com, Access your account ‘Checca subscription payment Is if you'emisse an ise Change Your mailing or email address ‘Email/shopnotes@shopnotes.com ‘tet ShopNetes,PO. BoxSt2, Des Moines 1A50304 ‘or call 1-800-388.5075, 800 am to :00 pm, Central “Time, weekdays, Orsend an email o: Printed in USA. EET aa Cutoffs dado. One of the most basic swoodworking joints Its really nothing more than a channel cut into a workniece that another piece fits into, Sounds easy enough. But once you actually try cxting one you realize there's abit more to it. For one thing, the width of the dado needs to be sized correctly. It hhas to match the thickness of the piece that fits into it — exactly Now, there are several methods to make adado, One common ways to use the table saw and a dado set. But getting the correct width can take quite a bit of fussing. You'll probably have to use shims and make several test cuts Is there a better solution? Well, if you're looking for afast and accurate ‘way to cut dadoes, all you need is a router — and our new dado jig. ‘This jg can easily be adjusted to cet any size dado from ¥/" to 1/9 ‘You can “locksn’ the size ofthe dado with jst one setup. And is guaran- ted to ft —every time Visit other Shopwvotes subseribers’ workshops and see photos of the shop projects ‘they've built, It's all online at ‘Woodworking Shop Tours on the ShopNotes web site: wwwShopNotes.com ‘We want you tobe part of or shop tours! "To submit, photos of your favorite ‘SkopNotes projects or views of your shop, jus follow the instruc: tions you'l find on our web site. ShopNotes But what really sets this jig apart isa builtin, quick-release clamp that Jocks it to the workpiece with just a turn of a knob, Now you don't have to fiddle with a bunch of clamps every time you cut a new: dado. Ail in al, its a jig that's bound to ‘ee lots of use in your shop. To learn ‘more, check outthe article on page 6. More Projects - We also have a couple of other projects that will transform everyday tools into high- performance machines, For starters, there's the band saw table and fence. ts designed to give you more of ‘what you need — a bigger worksur- face and a better fence. If you've ever had trouble trying to sharpen a tool with a bench sgxrinder, youl want to check out our bench grinder sharpening system on page 24. Itwill turn any grinder into @ precision sharpening machine. New Face - Recently, we've added another person to our staf, Ron Johnson has joined us as an assistant editor. No. 76aa Contents Features ‘Rottter Dado Jig= = = se 5G With this shop-made jig. you'll be routing dadoes and _grooves that ft perfectly Plus, this router jg features a buil- jin clamp that makes selup a snap. Band Saw Tune-Up___12 Think a band saw is only good for rough cuts? Think again With just a handiul of tools, a few simple steps, anda few hours, {you can have your band saw waking at paak periormance. Band Saw Table & Fence _______16 Take your band saw to the next level with @ new table and fence. This exire-latge table provides rock-solid support for just about any size workpiece. And the adjustable fence and. accessories make it easy to produce accurate cuts every tire. Get More Out of Your Grinder ___22 With just six accessories, you can turn your bench grinder Into a shop workhorse. Here's what you need to grind, sharpen, buff, and clean just about anything with ease. Sharpening System ___________24 This sharpening system for your bonch grinder features an adjustable platform with sliding too! sleds. You'l be able to aac 10 ShopNotes No. 76Routing Custom eDadoes HP Fhe best partof the router dado jigis just how easy it a& isto get set up and start routing, And although the dig makes it almost foolproof to rout tight-fitting, zap-ree dado joints, there are afew things youl want to keep in ‘mind to get the best results with the fig Setting the Router ~ First ofall, make sure you use the same router and bit that you used when the jig was built. The fences were trimmed to match the distance from the edge of the router base to the bit, so change in «ther one can cause the dado to be the wrong size ‘And speaking of the router it’s 2 good idea to always keep the same edge of the router against the fence rails ‘while routing. The bits in some routers arent perfectly centered in the base. slight variation can affect the size and the fitof the dado, Lputan arrow on my router base, as you can see in the photo below. That way [know uihich side ofthe router to keep againstthe fence and my dadoes wil always be sized accurately. With the router ready to go, you can lay out the dadoes on the workpiece. Since the jiz automatically squares itself to the workpiece, its not necessary to ‘arklayout ines al the way across the piece. [just mark them a few inches in, 1 also mark both sides ofthe dado so that [know which sie ofthe layout ine to rout on, ‘Routing Dadoes ~ Now you're ready to set the jigin place. Alga the fixed fence ofthe ig on one of the layout lines. Then slide the clamp head in place and lock the jig in position. To set the dado size, simply loosen the adjustable fence and slip a cutoff or the actual piece that will fit in the dado between the tardboard fences, as illustrated in the photo above. After snugging up the adjustable fence by tight- ening down the knobs, you're ready torout. Set the router inthe opening atthe end ofthe jg and ‘tumit on. With the router guided by the fence rails, the dado willbe cut in two passes. After the first pass, turn the router around and complete the cut {A Routing the Dadio. For the best results, rout the dacloes with the ‘same edge of the router base held against the fence rails. | drew ‘an arrow on the router fo serve as a reminder. First, rout ll the way ‘across the panel with the router against one fence, ‘A Completing the Cut. For dacioes wider than 1, you'll need 10 make a second ppass along the other fence af the jig. To raut the citer side ofthe dad, turn the router around so thatthe arrow sido ‘is against the other fence. Then raut back to the starting point No. 76 ShopNotes: uTechniques for Precision Cuts Rea aaa Daeg Ree Tae Cee ae Pry Saas Vena band saw into an all-purpose, preci- Rane Baca Raa a ata eae ice nace Tae a RA eee nee‘The first few adjustments (Qw 1221 to be mae occa ionally, but they're still very. important. $0, how do you know when to do it Personally, I like to give my saw a good once over every ‘time I make a blade change or every few months, depending on how much Tye been using it. Safety First - It goes without saying that before you check or adjust any- thing on the band saw always unplug it. Never rely on the “on/off” switch for protection. Now is also a good time for you to take the blade off the wheels. Lookc it Over — With the covers open it's a good idea to tke few minutes to look for any cracks in the frame, loose bolts, or other struc- ‘tural problems. Before moving on you ADJUST TT OF Saree WaPeL wir ENO fight also want to clean out any sawdust build up, ‘This can interfere with the function of the blade and wheels of the saw. TIRES AND WHEELS: Once the blade is off the next t0 do is to lean the tres. You can easily do this by rotating the wheels and holding an old toothbrush against the tire to clean off any accu mulated sawdust or debris. This tives you the chance to inspect the tires for cracks and wear. Worn tires make it difficult to keep the blade tracking on the wheels (see photo in. margin at right). Ifyour tire is bad, don't hesitate to replace it. Whenever you replace one ofthe tres its bestto replace the other at the same time. Wheel Balance - Its easy 10 overlook the importance of having the wheels balanced and properly Qiered ue oF balance wheets wit ‘cause the blade to wander. This will make it difficult for you to make con- sistenly straight and accurate cuts. No. 76 4A Wheet Alignment. Adjust the winsels elthor by tiling the top whee! (detail 'a’) or by repositioning one of the wheels (detail ) ‘There'sasimple way to determine the balance of the wheels. Just mark. a spot on one ofthe wheels and then ive it a good spin, Note the position ‘that it stops and then spin it several ‘more times, Ifthe marion the wheel continues to stop in the same place ‘your wheel is out of balance. Rebalancing your wheels can be kind oftricky. Refer to your manufac. turer's recommendation for rebal ancing the wheels or take it to someone who can do this for you. If the wheel is significantly out of bal- ance, you may want to consider replacing it with a new one. Wheel Alignment - The other thing you'll want to check is the alignment of one wheel in relation to the other. Before you do this, youl need to put the blade back on and tension it properly. Youll find that blade tension affects the wheel alignment and ‘ShopNotes mmalking a change to one thing makes change to all the others. Checking the alignment of the wheels is easy but you may need to remove the table. Place a straight: ‘eige across the top and bottom of both wheels (Ghoto above). If the straightedge touches both edaes at the same time, the wheels are in proper alignment (co-planar) You won't always find perfect alignment of the wheels when you check them, But you'll want to see the wheel rims within about ie" of the straightedge. I the straightedge doesn't touch both edges, tit the top wheel by adjusting the tracking knob until the straightedge just barely touches the lower wheel Gee detail‘). And if the wheels are still not aligned, you many needto use washers fr another type of shim to reposition cone ofthe wheels (see detail ‘b), 1B Vertical Wheel Alignment. A jong straightedge placed across the top and ‘bottom whee! makes it easy to chock the alignment of the wheets, Aire Weer. The ridge on this tre was caused by setting the blade fension too high.Once the tires and wheels are in ‘200d shape, you can move on to a few other adjustments that youl need to make more often. BLADE TENSION AND TRACKING tart by taking a lok at the blade tension and tracking. Tension refers to the tightness of the blade on the saw. Tracking isthe path the blade takes on the wheels, These two set tings can be adjusted by a pair of Jnobs on the back of the saw, «3 shown inthe photo below. To keep the band saw cutting straight and true, the flexible blade needs to be pulled tight. The tension nob does this by moving the wheels TENSION KNOB Blade and Guides farther apart. Different width blades require different tensions. When there’s not enough tension on the blade it can wander and leave a “cupped” cut in the workpiece. You may have heard that increasing the tension is an easy way to solve your cutting problems. But doing tis puts a lot of stress on the fame ofthe saw and will shorten the life of the wheel bearings and blades. Most saws have a tension gauge as a reference for tensioning dif ferent blade sizes, (see photo below). ve found tht i's not very accurate, but it will get you close. To get the tension set correctly, I doa simple push test. First, raise the blade guide to its highest poston. ‘Now push on the side ofthe blade. ‘Narrow blades (ess than 1/2") will deflect about %/s" when properly BLADE TENSION GAUGE SHOWe Prorce TENSON ‘BASED ON BLADE WibTT vers cupe Ageemetr MOVEMENT, GEE FOURE TABLE ADJUSTMENT KNOB 4 A Safety Tip. To prevent catching your fingers in the wheel, use a short dowel ta spin the wheel by hand with the saw unplugged. tensioned. ‘The wider blades should deflect no more than i", Blade Tracking ~ If your wheels are properly aligned and balanced and you have the right tension on the blade, getting the blade to track properly should only take a minor adjustment, What you're looking for is to have the blade run near the center ofthe tre, To check the tracking, unplug the saw and open the door. Then with. short plece of dowel rote the ‘upper wheel several times, as illus trated in the photo above. Ifneetied, turn the tracking knob or serew until the blade stays in the middie of the wheel as itis turned. Remember to take it slow when adjusting the tracking. If you turn the serew too much, the blade can run off the edge of the wheel and you'll need to start over. GUIDES AND THRUST BEARINGS With the tension and tracking set, there are just afew steps left before -youtre ready to 20. ‘The next things to check are the ‘wo guide assemblies. Ones located above the table and one below the table, asillustrated in Figure 1. Each guide assembly consists ofa pair of guide blocks and a thrust bearing located behind the blade. ‘The purpose ofthe guides and bear ings isto keep the flexible blade run- ning straight and true. If theyre set right, the blade can end up ‘twisting and get pushed off the shee or even break. No. 76Peres [a ADJUSTMENT UPPER GUIDE Gu ‘SEQUENCE (Bee ‘You'll need to make two different adjustments. One for the guide assembly and the second to each of the guide blocks. Guide Assembly - Before }z00d idea to loosen the guide blocks and back them away from the blade Don't take them all the way out because your Will need them asa ref erence for the next adjustment Next, loosen the thumbscrew and slowly move the guide blocks either forward or backward on the blade, 28 shown in Figure2. ‘The guide blocks should be post tioned just behind the guilets on the blade, as illustrated in Figure 2a ‘Afier seting the upper guide assembly, set the guide assembly below the table Guide Blocks ~ With the guide assembles set, you can adjust the ea guide blocks. As mentioned before, they straddle the blade and keep it ‘on track. They should be positioned close to, butnot touching, the blade. Tuse a business card to set the spacing, as shown in the upper right photo. The drawing above shows the sequence for setting the blocks. Here Iset the blocks on one side of the blade then the other to prevent the blade from being misaligned. Just place the card between the blade and the guide block and move the guide block until it rests soug against the card. Then just tighten the adjustment screw, Once all four adjustments have been made, you'l want to turn the wheels (by hand) a couple of times to be sure that there is adequate clearance forthe blade, ‘Thrust Bearings - There's one more part to be adjusted on the -IRET: LOOSEN GUIDE. AbBEMEnY HAUMBeCREW ‘BECOND:7RN. ABATED a Bia ShopNotes guide assemblies — the thrust bearing. It supports the blade from ‘the back when cutting. Ifthe thrust bearing is not supported from the ack, the biade won't give you square cuts and may even get pushed off the wheels. ‘You can use your business card again. This time fold it in half and place it between the back of the blade and the thrust bearing, as shown in the lower photo above, Position the thrust bearing against the card and tighten the thumb- ‘screw to hold the bearing in place. ‘SQUARE UP THE TABLE (Once the gues and thrust bearings ae set, you can make the fina adjustment. That is to check that the table is square to the blade. Ifit’s not, ‘your cuts won't be perpendicular. Just raise the upper guide assembly and place a small square on ‘the table against the blade, as you can see in the photo at right. If the table isn't square, loosen the table adjust- ment lnob end tit the table into position. Then retighten the knob. Its all oo easy to put of these simple adjustments. But it only takes. few minutes to run through them. ‘With your saw tuned, you'll turn to it more olen and get eter rests in your woodworking projects. 15 ~< Guide Blocks. 4 business card helos position the guide blocks. Adjust the locks on one side ‘and then the other (sequence at le) ~< Thrust Bearing, Use a business card folded in halt 10 set the position of the thrust bearing ‘A Square the Table to the Blade. Usi small square, make sure the blade {s 90° to the table,Band Saw Table & CSA oda MOB aun DERE Taco ee cance fant to improve the results you get with your band saw? With the shiopmade band saw table and fence shown above, you can, Large Worksurface - Handling just about any size workpiece on this oversized table isntta problem, The table mounts securely to the cast iron table ofthe band saw, as you can see in the photo at right. Adjustable Fence & Accessories - ‘The table isn the only thing to like about this project. There's a fence that adjusts quickly and locks down firmly, so i’sa snap to make straight, accurate cuts. And to account for the tendency of some blades to “drift.” there's / a simple adjustment mechanism to compensate. The Table fis into fence also features a piece of track to accept acces me ‘pocket formed in the soties — a stop block for making repetitive cuts like Bottom of the table andi its held in tenons, and a pivot block for accurate resaving. place by @ pair of aluminum angles. “< Custom Fit. The band saw 16 ‘ShopNotes: No. 76Sra e EXPLODED VIEW SrceAn DENGIOND. eae Correo ‘ele ges redetEime FENCE Fenn ges DURABLE No HiRAce EEN NING. "AcceoeonED ee ‘ast AiteNED Miter Track (24 Long) 1 He" - ff" Aluminum Anglos Ve" thick) ‘Table Mounting Bolts & Wachere (match to ‘threaded holes in cast ron table) Materials Table ea Heaton () saat-onTy ee a Biren 1p" x 41h" Carriage Bolt A Alignment Key (1) Wex 5 - Mk Hdbd. sheer ence setae DO eeracet)——tuh-20% E Face Support () axa thhe F Fence Mount (1) thx 6 G Clamping Bor(1) ax ho-6 H Clamping Block () ax Ne 2a 1 Hook Mount (3) Yext- Be J Hook () tpxi-t Sha! Threaded Brace Inserts ®he!'x 2" Hex Bolts (to make oeb ocrewo) 1°% 6" Aluminum Strap (i/o" thick) 4x lo" Fh Woodscrene 8x1" Fh Woodscron 8x1" Fh Woodecrows #6x1"Fh Woodscrews Fence Accessories he" x the" Flange Bolts K Stop Block () x22 hg Star Knobs L Mounting Block (1) iax2- 2% *@ Ye! Washers M Phot Blook (1) axe 4‘A Access, 4 small ‘cutout in the bottom cf the table provides access t0 the pin and hardboard key that keep the surfaces of the cast ron table and the auxiliary lable aligned, Sr Making the Table eee ‘The main thing Like about this table 1] fs the larger worksurface it provides compared to the standard cast iron table on my band save. It provides solid support 50 I can easily work with just about any size workpiece. ‘To get an overview of the table, take alook at Figure 1. For starters, the table is made of J" Baltic birch wars p04 plywood covered with layers of oN (ABLE \ plastic laminate on the top and bottom. The laminate provides a smooth, durable surface and keeps the table fat A pair of aluminum angles are used to attach the table to ‘the cast iron table ofthe band saw. woobecew Table Size — The frst step in guna rere building the table isto determine its Alun’ ANGue — ‘overall size, Of course, it should be big enough to provide support for a_ table. The easiest way to do this is large workpiece, Butdon'tgetcarried to remove the cast iron table from. away. Ifthe tableistoo wide (orlong), your band saw and use it as a tem- itwillbe ahassle to work around. plate. (My table comes off by Design Note:Thistableissized.and simply removing the knobs that shaped for a 14" band saw (the dis- allow you to tit the table.) tance from the band saw column to At this point, I eut a pair of ali the blade). You may need to modify minum angles to size and attached the size and shape for your band saw. them to the cast iron table, lke you Start with the Bottom ~Since see in Figure 1. The angles attach to the castiron tablefitsinto apocketin the table using mounting holes the band saw table, [started building already drilled inmost band saw by working rom the bottom up. The tables. You'll need to buy the first thing I did wasto cutthe bottom mounting bolts to fit your saw. (A) to inal width and length, Then] Once the angles are attached, set ‘glued apiece ofplasticlaminate to its the assembly on the bottom so it’s, bottom face, like you see in Figure 2. centered both sie to side and front ‘The next step is to locate and to back, as illustrated in Figure 2. size the pocket for the cast iron Then trace around the outside ofthe [ALUMINUM ANGLE. table and aluminum angle, providing, 47g! clearance all around. Before cutfing out the opening, its good idea to cut a slot along the ‘edge of the bottom for mounting the fence, You can see this clearly in Figure3.1 did thisby drilling a hole to esiablish the end of the slot and then raising my saw blade as high as it ‘would go and cutting the waste free. ‘With that complete, you can create the opening. Figure 3 shows NOTE: surow i Ratan, AINE POR BAB “secon, SereHEne octet aD Race Ea ee 18 ShopNotes No. 76how to do this by drilling: starter holes in the comers and then using a jig saw to remove the wast. ‘Alignment Pin & Key Access ~ You! also notice a small notch near the front edge ofthe table Figure2). ‘This opening provides access to the ‘metal pin that keeps the cast iron table aligned across the slot that pro- vides access to the band saw blade ‘The opening also makes it easy to get to a hardboard key that keeps the top of the band saw table fhish during use. You can see this in the margin photo on the opposite page. To create the slot for the key, youl need to cut a wide, shallow dado in the front of the table to fit the 1/4" hardboard key (Figure 4). ‘Add the Top - Once you've com- pleted the dado, you're ready to add the top of the table, The top (B) is identical in size to the bottom. And like the bottom of the band saw table, the upper surface of the top has a piece of plastic laminate glued eerie (eee Pabriibiee ou ‘ALUMINUM ANGLE No. 76 NA CL wie” THEN StUE mt FLACE SEE eee ey in place, as illustrated in Figure 4 above, Next, you can glue the top and bottom together: A spacer ensures that a consistent slot width is main- tained. Finally, cut a small piece of Jaminate to fit the opening in the table and glue itn place (Figure 4).. ‘There are just a few things left to do before mounting the table to the a. oswon, Bae aa band saw. First, youl need to cut an opening for the band savr blade as well as a slot to allow for installing (and removing) the blade, ‘Tp locate the hole, simply set the cast iron table in place and trace an outline of the hole on the bottom of the table (Figure 6). Figures 5a and 5b show how I used a hole saw to form the opening and a rabbeting bit to create the lip for the metal insert cof my band saw table, Note: You! need to drill stall hole along the edge ofthe recess to allow the “nub” ofthe insert plate to fit. With the hole complete, you can ccutthe slot from the frontofthe table tothe hole. Todo this, raise your saw blade as high as it will go and then make a single pass centered on the hole, asin Figure 6. _Atthis point, you're ready to cuta dado on the top side of the table. ‘The dado accepts two pieces of miter track that allow you to use your miter gauge for making a cut. Locate the dado to match the miter slotin your east iron table. "Now you can shape the table as shown in Figure 6. This removes the sharp edges and provides plenty of clearance to tit the table when you need to make an angled cut Allthat’s lft o do before mounting the table is to cut a couple pieces of ‘miter track to fit the dado and screw them in place (Figure 1), Then you can cut a Y/" hardboard alignment Fey (C) ad slip itinto place. 19Add the Fence ‘The curved cuts make on my band saw don't require a fence. But cut. ting tenons, ripping pieces to width, and resawing require a fence that adjusts easily, locks securely, and accepts accessories “The fence you see in Figure 7 meets all those needs. The fence houses a pieve of Ftrack so you can attach accessories and the mounting: assembly adjusts easily yet locks securely to hold the fence in pace. Make the Fence Face - I started on the fence by making the face. The fence face (D) is just a thick piece of hardwood. To allow a workpiece to slide smoothly along the face, [attached a stip of plastic Jaminate to one side. Thea to mount the accessories, I cut @ centered sroove and installed a piece of T: track, asin Figure 8a, ‘Attaching the fence face to the ‘mounting assembly is just a matter of adding a support (B) to the back side ofthe face. Figures showshow the supportis shaped Fence Mount ~ With the fence assembly complete, you can turn your attention to the mounting assembly the fence attaches to Nereis ‘This assembly is designed to Beem Make the ence easly adjusableand eh oF NCE SF AS FACE - LAMP oon errs BLO Raabe CLAMPING BAR (Geta 8) = FENCE MOUNT Cheese) at 20 ara —MouNmNe AssENBLY Jock securely. As you tighten a knob on the front of the mounting assembly, it pulls a clamping block. tight to “pinch” the fence against the table, as you can see in Figure 7a. T siarted on the assembly by making the fence mount (F) from a piece of 1Y/Mthick hardwood and cating a pair of grooves in it (Figure 10). One groove is wide and shallow sexe re washer weasels we aD to accept an aluminum strip. The strip allows you to angle the fence to ‘compensate for any blade “drif.” To do this, a pair of shopmade set screws (cutoff hex bolts with a slot ‘cut in them) can be adjusted to “weak” the angle slightly ‘The other groove accepts the rabbet cut on the end of a clamping bar (G).A small clamping block (1) yore genuumnuM Yess oer Yet TuReaveD. Bear No. 76attached to the ete of the bar fits into the slot on the bottom of the table, To lock the fence in place, carriage bolt gud into the camping block passes through all three parts ofthe assembly (gure 7) With the mounting assembly complete, youre ready to glue the fence assembly to it. First, cut the fence to length so itextends#/" past the exge ofthe table when is tush withthe mountat the frontend ofthe table, a in Figures 7a and 7b, Then sue the fence in place sits parallel to the mitersotin the table ‘Add the Fence Hook ~ All that’ left o complete the fence i to aida hook (FJ) to the end to hold the fence tight against he table. You can see oI dd this in Figure 1. MAKE THE AGCESSORIES You can use the fence just the way it is Butto et more out fit, you want to adda pair of ancy accessories — stop blockand a pivot block. Stopped Cuts ~ The siop black @ W tases siopped cuts @snsp and Fence Highlights wosren woedeckw rOEntenee AND TAB itsjusta°/1-thick piece of hardwood, Avhole in the block makes it easy to ‘mount the stop to the Track (Figure ‘Zand photo below). ‘Resaw with Ease ~ A band saw is tailor made for cutting thick stock into thinner pieces. But that isn't always easy to do using the fence as aguide. Instead, like to use a pivot block that allows me to make small adjustments to track perfectly along, the line of the cut (Figure 12). ‘The pivot block consists of two | \__gygr pieces — a mounting block, and a \___"™" pivot block shaped to a point. The ‘mounting block (1) isidentical to the stop block. After shaping the edge of the pot block QM), you can git to the mounting block. With the accessories complete and the table and fence in place, you're ready to make just about any cut on the band saw — with preci sion and ease. #4 ‘A Blade Drit. Adjusting the fence to match the hit of the blade is just a matter of “tweaking” the set screws inthe fence. No. 76 < Hold-Down. A small hhold-down at the end of the fence prevents it from lifing off the surface of the table. ShopNotes Stopped Cuts. ‘Making stopped cuts is snap with a simple stop block that fits into the Track in the fence. ~ Resawing. The adjustabie pivot biock allows you to resaw thick stock into thinner stook with precision. aLCOM CMTS Teen Cao Oe upgrades. A msider a bench grinder a tool, I'd use it to sharpen my mower blade, clean up the ends of cutoff bolts, and occasionally utofthe edge ofa ch th six afte market acce m1 can add versatility and accuracy to your bench grinder and it for a whe with better, more pr form, a bench grinder is more than a double-shafted a pair of grinding 3450 RPM). And that’s part of the problem. Trying to do accurate work: ‘something rotating that is just about impossible. Along, the hard whee rests provider ‘wish thinking, Make a Few Changes ~ combat this pro ‘grinder more need to do is m One simple change that’s ShopNot 6X3/4X1 77A80-J19-VLRMC 9 ‘bond (W) is the inding and shar mak ‘wheels on your grinder wi you see in the photo ant wheel shown is made fr aluminum oxide with a soft bond No. 76A Dress for Success. Removing ‘embedled metal fram the stone and truing it up with a diamond dresser ensures peak performance. ‘The particles break away more casily to expose new material. This ‘means you're less likely to glaze, or clog up, the wheel and overheat a chisel or plane iron, Caring for the Wheel ~ Using a softer wheel does have a down- side — it’s easy to wear a groove or round over the edge of the stone Oa and remove any unevenness, you'll need a wheel dresser, ‘The wheel dresser [like to use is shown in the photo above. Its a fring tool with diamonds cembeclded in its 1"-wide face. To use it, you simply press the face of the tool into the stone to knock off any high spots, remove any grooves, and square the wheel across its width. ‘New Tool Rest - Once you have a good grinding wheel in place, the next big improvement you can make is to add a new tool rest. The problem with the tool rests that come with most bench grinders is that they mount in a fixed position. ‘This makes it hard to accurately ‘match and grind the correct bevel on a chisel or plane iron Now there are a couple soltions to this You can make your own tool rest. The sharpening station on page 24 features chisel and plane iron sleds that adjust to match the bevel angle of the tool. There's also a basic tool rest that can handle just about any other grinding task, ‘The other option is to buy a tool rest like the Veritas tool rest on the opposite page. You can use it with any bench grinder and its large ‘worksarface wraps around the wheel, providing, solid support for just about anything you might want togrind. Andit’s easly adjustable, so you can be sure you'll be ble to post tion the restjust the way you want. Chisel & Blade Holder - The Veritas rest also has a groove in itto accept shopmade or aftermarket srinding jigs. The one Tike to seis the AecwSharp jig shown in the main photo. Tt holds chisels and plane irons perfectly square to the wheel. An added plusis thatyou can simply lit off the jig to checks your progress and then setit back in place to pick up right where you left of. Other Accessories ~ Ifthe only thing you used your grinder for was SU SMCs Lely 1. Aways operate bench ‘grinder wit the quar in place and bropely adjust. 2.” Becure grncing whoo rated {omateh the speed ofthe grinder. 38. inepoct grinding whoo prior to Inataling on the grinder. 4. Novor grind on a cold grincing wheel Allow one minute of warmup. protection when grinding for any ‘extended periods. 8. Siand to the side wnen ‘tarting up the grinder. 9. Dosit overighten the grinding whool. Wako sure blotier (paper sharpening chisels and plane irons, it ‘would be a worthwhile investment. But there are two other accessories ‘that willallow you to do even more— buffing wheel and a wire wheel. Bring It to a Shine ~ A buffing ‘wheel “loaded” with butting or pol ishing compound is a great way to bring a beautiful shine to a wide variety of objects, like the bevel ‘gauge blade show in the top photo, Different buffing compounds are available depending on your needs. Note: Always buff away from the workpiece to avoid a catch “Brush” It Away ~ The other accessory [ise quite often isn in pensive wire wheel. As youcan see in the photo above; the stiffbrisles ona wire wheel make quick work of “brushing” away rust and residue. Six accessories. That's allt takes to add versatility and accuracy to your bench grinder. If turned my bench grinderintoa workhorse Luse more often in my shop. & 2B A Other Options. A bench grinder cai do more than jus remove metal Adoing a shine project with a bu! whee! (top) or cleaning up 100 with a wire wheel (bottom) adios to a grinder’ versatilitychisels and plane irons (ee inset photo) every time. ShopNotes/ - @ EXPLODED VIEW CAREC ACT, ~ Go BASE DIMENSIONS: \ ale Bowel Lae eninoy, PLATEORM AGoENoLY. Prgrarok graven ‘Geo ANGLES aumuion esr PERS. / abit, alone sce A OS eine SoCs Materials EER 1A Base FroniBack (2) 4x 15-9 B Base dea 2) 484-4 © Bave Top @) 7H Ph Hardware 0 Side Supports (2) 7x12-5) Py. E Bree Bottom () + (23) #Ox 1%! Fh Woodscrews + 2) YetWashors F Photing Platform (1) + G@). #6x'% rh Woodecreve 3 @) Yere2"Hectead Bor & Piatform Wingo (2) + (16) #61" Fh Woodecrowe + @) Yate Studded Knobe # Slang Tables (2) + (6) #0%1%8"Pniloodecrews + @) Ye" Starknobo 1 Runners (8) gxt-7 S (4) #Bx2ietPhWoodccrove > (2). hs'x¥ Studded Knobo 4 Adjuotment Blocks (2) ax 2a 2 ©) th" x th" 8" Angle tron + (4) "a" Nylon Lock Nuts K Gulde Rails (2) yx tly + (A) "her18 Tieeded Brnoe ncerte * (2) Miter Track (long) Tool Slade (2) Thx Ble- 9h Ph @) 8) te tivences crave insorss + (2) Aluminum Hold-Down ico M SedRamers (2) Zaxh 74 + 2) %" Threaded Rode, 6x"long Noo needed: Mounting Hardware ee Saxe Be * (10) fo" Washers for Grindor a 0 Planelron Fence!) "Zax %/s- Bile No. 76 ShopNotes 25FEATURE PROJECT Base and Pivoting Platform ‘The sharpening system is made up of three main assemblies — a base to support the grinder, a pivoting platform, and a pair of sliding tables. started by building the base, Base ~ At first glance, the base ooks a litle bit like a scaled-down bread box (Figure 1). But instead of holding bread, this box is for the ‘grinder, And instead of fitting inside the box, the grinder sits on top. Asyou can see in Figure 2, there's not much to the base. Its essentially just a plywood box sandwiched between two side panels. The over: sized base bottom allows you to clamp the grinding station down to the top of your workbenct. ‘Tomake the base, start by cutting out the base front, back, sides, and top from" plywood. Depending on your grinder, you may have to alter the dimensions of some of these pieces so that your grinder sits at the proper height. The end view in Figure 2 shows how to determine these measurements, ‘To make it easier to attach and remove the grinder from the station, there isan opening in the base back, ricune Bes ar PASE BACK (exe) o. BASE SIDE a coe) ® inert 26 a shown in Figure 2. After making this opening, you can glue and screw the pieces together. Side Supports ~ A pair of side ‘supports are attached to the ends of the box. These provide a means of ‘mounting the pivoting platform that will be added later. After cutting the side supports to shape, you can lay. ‘out the holes for the hardware, Each support receives a pivot hole near the top edge as well as a hole sacar the bottom edge fora threaded brass insert. With the inserts installed, the side supports can be sued to the ends of the box fush @ with the back and bottom edges. ‘To complete the base, all you have to do is cut a base bottom out of a Piece of 5/" plywood. Then screw the bottom to the side supports. Pivoting Platiorm - With the ‘base complete, you can start on the pivoting platform. As you can see in Figure 1a, this platform fits cover the side supports of NOTE sve Hee SPORE ES Bierce Bete enter Be | SeNDRS Whee Ate Bere Oe aTeun ‘the base and pivots on a couple of bolts. A pair of knobs is used to lock the platform in place so you can grind your tools at any angle ‘ror about 25° to 90% ‘The platform is cut from a piece of {8 plywood, as shown in Figure 3. You'll need to create a couple of ‘openings in the platform for some adjustment blocks that are added later. Idd thisby driling holes in the corners of the openings and then cutting out the waste with a jig saw. Tused the same technique to cut a notch at the back edge of the plat- form. The purpose of this notch is simply to provide easy access to the (on/off switch onthe grinder. Platform Wings - The platform sits on a pair of “wings” that allow it _ blank. One is the pivot hole, and the to pivot. As you can see in Figure 3, other two holes are drilled at the these wings are curved along their endpoints of the slot. front edges. However, they start ‘Tocreate the curved slot, [madea ‘out as two square blanks. Then you simple jig to use with the router table can lay out the pivot hole, slot, and (see box below). Then all you have wing profile on each blank, to dois cutthe curved profile on the according to the dimensions shown _ front edge of each blank. in the detail in Figure 3. ‘Attaching the Wings - The Once you've completed the lay wings are glued and screwed to the ‘out, you can drill three holes ineach underside of the platform so that GO ESL ge a eerie EL eon ed a es NOTE citevorermacnc No. 76 ShopNotes Routing the curved slots in the plat- form wings is a simple procedure through one of the two end holes of MOLE FaBbes ‘with this jig. I's nothing more than the slot. Raise or lower the router a piece of plywood with a hex bolt bitto take a A"“deep cut. Now tura epoxied into a counterbored hole, the router on and pivot the blank see drawing at leit. To use the jg, slip the pivot hole site end. Complete the slot by of the wing blank over the hex bolt. making additional passes, raising ‘Then clamp the jig to the router the bit slightly between each pass. they straddle the side supports of the base. To make it easier to post tion the vrings on the platform, 1 attached the wings to the side sup- ports with some bolts, washers, and Tock nuts Figure ta). (eave the nuts just loose enough so that the wings can pivot) With the wings locked in place by the knobs, you can simply clamp the platform in position and screwitto the wings. table go the router bit extends up ‘until you reach the hole at the oppo- 27TEC Slidingwlables tes sot nsst ir nelle aaa oS With the base and platform of the sharpening system complete, you ‘can begin making the sliding tables. ‘As you can sec in Figure 4 the con- struction of the tables is pretty straightforward. Each table is just a piece of plywood that slides on a set of dovetail ways. A knob allows you to advance the table toward the sgtinding wheel, 90 you can control how much material you're grinding off the edge of your tool. As with any project that has moving parts, the trikcis in geting all the pieces to fit together just right. But Il tal more about that ater. ‘Tables - Each table starts out as nothing more than apiece of 4! ply- ‘wood. A bevel is ripped along the front edge of each table to create clearance for the grinding wheel ‘when the table is moved up close to the grinder, see drawing below. To make the sliding tables more versatile, I cut a groove in each table for an aluminum miter track (Figure 5). This miter track will be used to Inold acouple of tool sleds. (You Ihave o drill some countersunk hholes in the track in order to instal it) I also drilled a couple of holes near the front edge of each table for some threaded NOTE: en x08 10 Move TAB LOSER 10 CEERDING WHEEL 28 ess ae supe osusrigens psbeneer —/ EAC ABLE sive — se rupeapeo nob (euntone) tag ie SePOTAR KNOB AL SUING TABLE @)— ee borne inserts, These will be used for attaching a removable tool rest ‘Runners ~ Once the miter track and threaded inserts are installed, you ean make the runners that alow the tables to slide back and forth To do this, I started by ripping 2 30° Deve along the edge ofa single harc- ‘wood blank. Then Ierosseut the ind vidual runners to length (Figure 6). ‘After driling some countersunk NOTE: couressin THREADED “GRIND OFF 1 Inseer” SIDE VIEW “G2ctE, ShopNotes: serewholes, you can attach the run- ners to the bottom of the table and the top of the pivoting platform. This is a two-step process, First, screw the runners to the underside of the table so that they are dush with the edges, as shown in Figure 6a, To position the mating pair of run ners on the pivoting platform, Iput a strip of carpet tape on one side of each runner and set them in place against the runners that were already installed on the sliding table. ‘Then I carefully set the pivoting plat form down on the sliding table, pressing it down firmly to make sure the tape adhered (Figure 6). After sliding the table off the platform, you can drill pilotholes for the mounting screws and then screw the runners in place to the pivoting platform, just as you seein Figure 7. Adjustment Blocks - At this point, both tables should slide smoothly along the runners. Butyou! siill need a way to control the move- ment. The answer here is fairly simple. An adjustment block with a No. 76threaded insert is attached to the underside of each table. Passing through this block is 2 threaded rod with a star knob epoxied on the end. As you fur the knob, the threaded rod moves the adjustment block (and the table). Guide Rails - Before you can install the adjustment blocks and threaded rods, however, you need to add a couple of guide rails to the underside of the pivoting platform igure 8). The purpose of these rails is to simply guide and support the threaded rods, Each guide rail is nothing more than a strip of hardwood with a couple of holes for the threaded rods, You can screw the guide rails (0 the bottom of the pivoting plat- form so they are flush with the edges of the openings that you ‘made in the platform earlier. Adjustment Blocks —Asyou can see in Figure 8, each adjustment block is just a piece of hardwood with a threaded insert installed. To attach the blocks to the sliding tables, start by slipping the tables over therunners on the pivating plat- form and turning the whole assembly upside-down, Now slide the tables out so that the back edge (the one without the bevel) is 1” beyond the edge of the platform, ‘Takea close look at Figure 8 to make no ADJUSTMENT BLOCK. ees —texauten ‘pies Pana PR S58 or nro TEU NOTE: mien cuiona saBte9 AND To PORITON Eun ssure that you have all the pieces ori- ented in the correct position. Set the adjustment blocks in the openings in the platform so they are butted up against the back guide rail. Now you can serew the blocks to the tables, Hardware - With the adjust- ‘ment blocks screwed in place, you ccan add the threaded rod and knob assemblies. Finally, to prevent the threaded rods from backing out of the adjustment blocks, add a washer and a nylon lock nut to the end of each threaded rod Figure 8). Once this is done, you can reat- tach the pivoting platform assembly ‘on the base of the station, GUIDE RAIL AFR EAS ‘A Pivot, To adjust the angle of the SECOND: ser pivoting platform, loosen the two star ROAST SUE RAL knobs on the sides of the wings and ‘AND SCREW TO TABLES swing the platform into position. ShopNotes 4 Slide, To move the sliding table closer to (or further away from) the wae ‘SLED. be O08 SS eT Tool Rest m When it comes to freehand You can make a simple tool rest out srinding, you don't need to hold the of a piece of angle iron. Just dill a ‘workpiece in a fixed position. Butit's couple holes in the angle iron and helpful (and safer) to haveatoolrest use a pair of threaded knobs to to prevent the grinding wheel from _atlach it to the inserts mounted in pulling the toolout ofyourhands, the top ofthe sliding table. 3) a. [ alah 1 508 eet esired grinding angle, Imade yp se was, a setof hardboard gauges2 Must-Have Table Saw Table Saw Blades ad bt A i Se T | Jinencer wat into a wood VV working or home improve. ‘ment store I always see a wall full of saw blades, It's amazing how many there are to choose from. Do you really need all of those blades? The (oh Seon a hard as you might think. The key is to simplify the whole process. ¥ General-Purpose Once you break through the bliz- Blade (ATB). Teeth zard of terms and information avai- with alternating top able, you'll find that the choice really bevels. Good for boils down to answering one impor- FIRST BLADE jps and crosscuts tant question. What kind of cutting ‘in all materials. do Ido most? When you answer If you're like me, most of your work: met Menage rare ae mot close to knowing — ting and ripping of both hardwoods the blades you and sheet goods. So it’s important to need. ‘me to have a blade that can handle a. ‘wide range of tasks without having ‘to malke blade changes. ~< Combination Blade (ATBR). A raker footh and ATB teeth separated by 4 large gullet. Good for making both crosseut and rip cuts. LARGE GULLET PIRCE RoR SAND AEN COPING ALTERNATING ‘TOP-BEVEL TEETH RAKER TOOTH Fixe Mone oom MATS arienen One blade that does this is the combination blade. As the name implies, this blade design attempts to find common ground between a, rip blade and a crosscut blade, It does this by arranging the teeth in sets of five. Youtl usually see four alternating top-bevel teeth and a taker tooth (Gee drawing at Jef). This means the teeth are arranged so that the tops of the teeth are beveled about 15° and the bevels alternate from one side of the blade to the other (ee the box on the opposite page). The toprhevel teeth score the ‘wood fibers as they cut, giving you a clean crosscut. Then the fla-topped raker tooth cleans out the material thats left behind The five sels of teeth are sepa rated by large gullet that allows the sawdust to be cleared from the cut ‘when ripping is being done. The combination of the large gullet and this tooth profile makes short work of both rip cuts and crosscuts. Another good option for a “first” blade choice is a general purpose blade, Jus ke combination blades, sreneral purpose blades are designed to both rip and erosscut — but they 0 about it in a slightly different No. 76‘manner. You'll find these blades usually have between 40-60 teeth with an alternating top bevel (ATE) tooth profile similar to the middle blade in the box below. This tooth configuration makes a very Clean shearing cut across the ‘grain as well as with the grain. They also cut ata reasonable speed and do a respectable job of cutting plywood and laminates. fT had only one blade to buy, it ‘would be ether a combination blade ‘or a general-purpose blade. My ‘general-purpose blade stays on my table saw about 90% ofthe time and meets most of my cutting needs. Both the general-purpose blade and the combination blade are abit ‘ofa compromise, especially when it comes to ripping. That's why you need to consider adding, a second saw blade to your shop. ‘SECOND BLADE ‘My second purchase would be a rip blade. This is your best choice when- Fever you have a lot of ripping to do. If you look at the drawing at the right, you'll notice that a typical rip blade has only flat-topped teeth. The number of teeth are fewer than you will find on either the general ‘purpose or combination blades. ‘The flattop teeth are more effec- tive at ripping than the bevel teeth that cut only on one side of the blade ata time, The teeth onthe rip blade have high “hook angle” That means they lean farther forward, ‘hich allows them to cut quickly and smoothly through the stock. ‘These flattop teeth will give you mother added benefit. They’ make flat-bottom cuts that can't be made with the combination blade or gen- eralpurpose blade. This is really nice when when your project calls for either flat-bottom grooves or ‘stub-tenon joints. Other Options - As you shop for blades, you may run across a @ew otter thines you need to con- ‘sider. These aren't things that are terribly difficult to evaluate but it’s ‘still good to know about them. No. 76 Sra One thing youll notice is that a number of saw blades come with special finishes or coatings. These coatings or finishes are designed to make the blade pass through the stock more easily. Many blades have this option, but I wouldn't buy a blade based on its coating alone. Another choice youll have to ‘make is whether you want a thin- kerf or regularkerf design. This refers to. the blade thickness. A regular kerf blade is 7/3!" wide while the thin kerf blade iso" in width, ‘The thinkerf blade requires less effort from the saw motor when the saw is cutting, So, if you own a benchtop table saw, or i your table ‘saw has a low horsepower rating, you might want to consider getting this type ofblade. Some woodworkers prefer the thindkerf blade even on table saws that have more horsepower. They fee iteuts faster and takes less effort to feed the workpiece through than swith regularkerf blades. Recommendations - Even armed with allthis information, you stil might be wondering which spe ‘ic blades to buy, Fortunately, there are several quality blade manufac- turers today, making itpretty easy to find a good blade. ‘The decision ‘really comes down to personal pref ‘erence (as well as your budge!) ‘When choosing a ripping blade, BOS CCE “ATER. (Alternating Top Bevel with Raker) The raker tooth slower than the top-bevel teeth ShopNotes ANTL-KICKBACK DESIGN. Tee HAE nT TE "AMOUNT OF MATERIAL “MAT EAN BE cbr BY tae ee itts hard to go wrong, Jesada, CMT, SystiMatic, Preud, and Amana Gust to name a few) all make good: Using the Spier. Removing the Verin spiiter takes seonds, Simply slip pencil through your insert to releaso ine spiitor (inset) then “pop” itoff ight), Reinstaling the spliter is: just as fast. A” ‘saw splitter serves an important purpose — it pre- vents the kerf in a workpiece from closing and pinching against the blade. And the pawis prevent the workpiece from kicking back — but only ifyou use the splitter ‘A couple of the most common ‘excuses [hear for notusing a splitter are “It's just not convenient,” or “Its such a hassle” And granted, removing and then having to rein- stall the assembly after making a nondhrough cut, like a dado, rabbet, ‘or groove can be a pain at ‘That’s where the Merlin spliter shown above comes in. Tt eliminates the problems and the excuses — you ‘can remove and reinstall the Merlin spiitter in just seconds, Ease of Use ~ The photos below ‘give you an idea of how the mecha- nism works. The secrets the quick- release button installed inside the saw. All you have to do is press it down, pivot the splitter toward the back, and slip it right off ‘As you can see below, I drilled a hole in my insert plate so 1 could ‘easily access the button with a pencil ‘ShopNotes without having to remove the insert Gee inset) Reinstalling the spltiers «even easicr Just hook it on the rear ‘mount and snap itn pace instantly. Installation ~ The only real cha lenge you'l have with the Merlin spliter is instaling it. You! need to remove the mounting parts for your spliter and blade guard so you can install the hardware for the Merlin spliter. And since saws vary, you need to be sure o order the correct ‘model for your table saw. Breaibur carries a Merlin spiter to fit almost a dozen contractor and cabinet saw models. For sources, check out the ‘margin on the opposite page: Cost — The $115 cost of the Merlin splitter might give you second thoughts about buying one But its really a small price to pay to ensure your safety with every cut Note:The Merlin sata substitute for a blade guard. For added safety, its best to supplement the splitter with an after market overarm blade guard From now on, Til use a spite whenever [ can, With the conven: ence ofthe Merlin spliter, it doesn't make sense not to, €& No. 76Router Dado Jig Sources MAIL ORDER SOURCES Similar project supplies may be ordered from the following Band Saw Table & Fence store or home center. The only items you may have trouble locating are the ‘wo different imobs used. ‘Both types of knobs we used on the dado ji amilable from Rockler (ee ‘margin). The tapered knob uused to clamp the jig in place is part number 81505. ‘And the two Iknobs used to Jock in the dado width are part number 71514 Ww The results you get vith the router dado jg on page 6 makes it a *must- hhave” accessory for the shop. ‘The best thing is that building the dado jig won't require a lot in time, ‘materials, or hardware. ‘Most of the hardware, like the threaded rod, bolts, screws, washers, and other items, are avai. able at a local hardware Bench Grinder Accessories m Bench grinders and their accessories are ‘common at most hardware stores and home centers. soi ves abicto ind avire wheel anda dresser for my bench grinder locally But it gets alittle more dificult to find specialized items like aluminum oxide stones, buffing wheels, Store at the number listed in the margin, They carry stones, dressers, and tool rests along with buffing wheels and compounds, We used an 80-grit aur ‘minum oxide stone (2278) from Onevoay. The Veritas tool estis from Lee Valley (05M23.0). And the arinding jig is from Acca Sharp (ASS02). ‘The other sources listed in the margin carry some of the identical items or ‘ones that-are similar. and adjustable tools rests. ‘You can find mostof the other items shown in the article on page 22 by con- Woodamith tacting the ‘We now feature hardware from ROCKLER in ‘many of our new project kits. To order, please use ‘our tollfree order line, see below: It's open Monday © through Friday from $8 AM to 5 PM Central Time, [Before calling, please have your VISA, MasterCard, Discover, or American Express card ready. Ifyou would prefer to mail in an order, please call the tolkiree phone number below for more information concerning: shipping charges as ‘well as any applicable sales tax 1-800-347-5105 No. 76 ‘ShopNotes: companies Rocder 900.279.4441 The band saw table and fence on page 16 requires a few pieces of hardware ‘you'll eed to order. Rookler carries most of items needed are a pair of ‘lange bolts (63311), afive- star knob (23820), and two threaded inserts (23191), ‘To attach the acces- Flange Bol Koby, er Trot Nut, hack ‘the items you'll need. The soriestothe fence, youcan ‘hve srs miter gauge track part order a pair of fourstar ee Vales number is 62018 and the knobs (1065526) from the 00871-8158 ‘Track is 21746, The other Sharpening Station 1 Most of the hardware required to build the sharp. Woodsmith Store ing Grinding Whe Dresing Mik, Grier for a holddown clamp with a knob and threaded — pygp ts gmatnn ening ston on page 248 rod 21912) Pree ks Crinn available at a hardware Knobs ~ In aiition to at et slore or home center the knob for the hold- Parkwood Produc Co. ‘The less common hard- down, Rockleralso carries 201-801-1088 pace es of sources. You can find (23820) you'll need. Een the part numbers below The studded knobs wwmwreidbocom and the contact informa used in the project came ‘nh tion in the margin. from two sources. The Woden Miter Track - To pro- '/i0" knobs (1065204) are, ,CD0-225-1253 videsmooth movementfor available irom the _pufingComponds During the sleds, we cut the Woowlemith Store. And Grinding Wh Chm ‘guides rom some Rockler Reid Tool has the /e! ver Grin, Grito miter track (63018) sion DK97). Ret Krab Pho Hold-Down -Thento Inserts ~ Finally youll Wendsmi Store secure thechisels orplane need two different size ave sieporntnys irons to the sled, you'll also want to ask Rockler pe EY, € inserts @3191, 71589). Baling Comps, Bang Both are from Rockler. & Griing Whol, Chl Blade Holder, Dring ‘ola, Mange Bats, els Miter Tach, Eas, ‘ck Dv sere '* “Online Extras” - Plans, Patlerns, & More ‘Online Customer Service * Over 100 Woodworking Tips Online ken Seb Snes +» Visit Our Woodworking Shop Tours Gallery, Scape Soom © Project Plans You Can Download ey * Catalog of Pret Kits Tols Jigs Plans | {pam rggmaeosteles + Forums for Windwordng, Tools & Cases | pe gg * Links to Other Woodworking Sites acl ead + Order ShopNote & Woadsnith Becclssues | altar wet eae www.shopnotes.comOat Bg a ae c 7 Corea ig rameter re d ete ca iene Pere ee: : ew se eee 8 guess work & Don't Settle for Sloppy Cuts. Well show you how to fin i8 precision tune your band saw so it's capable of accurately cutting anything from tenons to veneers, just turn to page 12.