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GLAM

SOCIAL MEDIA

SINDHU NAIR
DEBRINA ALIYAH

DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT ALTAMIRANO

SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

MANAGING EDITOR
FASHION EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SIAM
AYUSH INDRAJITH
MAHESHWAR REDDY B

Watch the new Slim dHermes short movie on


our Facebook page and tell us what you think of
its concept that explores an urban world in
perpetual motion. Dedicated to the watch of the
same name, the main characters in the film
move in step with their own idea of time. The
watch is available for both men and women.

EVENTS OF THE MONTH


Heya Arabian Fashion Exhibition
November 12 to 18
Doha Exhibition and Convention Centre

FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB

MATHEWS CHERIAN

SONY VELLATT
A H M IRFAN

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA

ASSISTANT EVENTS MANAGER JASMINE VICTOR

The 8th edition will feature the Autumn 2015


collections of Arabian and Gulf-designed abayas,
kaftans, jalabiyas and gowns, by Qatari and
regional designers. Events include daily fashion
shows, hands-on fashion workshops, discussion
forums, VIP lounges and conversations
with leading Arabian fashion designers.

Etro will present its AW15 collection in


association with Oryx Advertising Company, the
publishers of Glam magazine.

BUSINESS HEAD

PRATAP CHANDRAN

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA P

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

The Etro Fashion Show


November 11
Etro Boutique, Porto Arabia, The Pearl-Qatar.

COMING UP

YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH


SANDEEP SEHGAL
ALPANA ROY

GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL.

THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND


CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE
PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG
MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR
ANY ADVERTISING CONTENT CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION.
CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM
WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR
CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982

Glam_November_2015.indd 16

Our annual anniversary issue returns


with a special feature on dressing up for the
holidays and special occasions, how to rock an
evening dress at any shape or size, and gift guides
for your stylish friends. Dont miss out on our
special 8 must-have items of the season to
celebrate our 8th birthday!

11/5/15 2:41 PM

G Talk
No, this is not a new issue. It is the pile of dirt swept under the carpet thats getting bigger
in size over time. It plagues the industry, and as fashion consumerism continues to grow,
this issue is just going to be more endemic.
What are we ranting on about? In the last couple of months, we have heard about the sad
departures of Alexander Wang and Raf Simons from Balenciaga and Dior respectively. For
Balenciaga, perhaps an underlying alignment of vision between designer and brand was at
play, but Rafs soaring commercial success at Dior was undeniable. The move to leave was
truly surprising, especially when we are now accustomed to waiting for the next unexpected
'It' item that we would happily lap up (fusion heels and floral sneakers, anyone?).
Some call it a smart move, leaving on a high note as he magically revamped the modern
interpretations of the decades-old house. Both Alexander and Raf have set their eyes to
concentrating on their namesake labels, not surprising, since that is the ultimate creative
satisfaction for every designer, isnt it? But peel back the layers, and as Cathy Horyn puts
it honestly in her op-ed for The Cut, it is the impossible pressure of having to produce
multiple collections annually that exhaust most of the creatives.
We often romanticise the creation process for fashion. Perhaps, the designer sits with a
cup of coffee while he stares into a never-ending green garden and sketches easily. Days
could be spent reviewing a special piece while deciding on colours and fabrics while
conversations are to be had with the ultimate muse. But this is absolutely not the case these
days, when creative directors are often running from studios to studios, overlooking up to
six collections a year, not to mention diffusion lines and perhaps even lifestyle projects.
Rafs decision to leave is an intelligent move, lest we forget, the tragic suicide of Alexander
McQueen, or Nicholas Ghesquieres vocal outlash against his previous employer, Balenciaga.
And then, there was Rafs predecessor, John Galliano. When push comes to shove, even
the strongest could bow to the extreme demands of the fashion industry. But we must
remember, that without the talents, fashion is but a fools game.

EDITORS PICK
TO CELEBRATE TORY BURCHS AW15
COLLECTION, VOGUE ITALIA PRODUCED
A SHORT FILM, STARRING ELISA
SEDNAOUI AND DIRECTED BY
BOLDIZSR CR. SET IN VENICE, THE FILM,
ENTITLED THE PAINTING, CAPTURES
EUROPES TIMELESS GLAMOUR, WITH
AVANT-GARDE CINEMATIC ELEMENTS.
THROUGHOUT THE FILM, SEDNAOUI
WEARS PIECES FROM THE NEW
COLLECTION. THE FILM LAUNCHED ON
VOGUE.IT ON OCTOBER 9.

Glam_November_2015.indd 20

11/5/15 2:41 PM

26 \ TRENDS
2

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE

WILDEST
DREAMS

For many women, lingerie usually


makes appearances only for
special occasions like weddings
or anniversaries. But after a long
day of strutting about town in a
chic get-up, why stop when you get
home? While you have impressed
the world with your outward style,
its time for some self-pampering
to up your feel-good factor as you
unwind for the day. Classic silk
pyjamas and velvety smooth slips
make for easy cover-ups, while
lacy underwear does double duty
for both evenings in and out. Wear
them under your dress of the
season for a confidence boost.

SAVE

SPLURGE

V-neck lace bodysuit, QR125.


Satin cover-up, QR104.

3
Printed kimono slip, QR125.

4
Lace bralette, QR75.
5 Lace brief, QR33.

All items available from H&M boutiques,

Glam_November_2015.indd 26

Molly suspenders, QR699. Bra, QR699. Brief, QR615.


Luna camisole, QR699. Brief, QR475.
Kiki kimono, QR2,767.
Amelia slip, QR1,649.
Classic pyjama top, QR1,258. Pyjama bottom, QR559.
All items available from Agent Provocateur,
Porto Arabia.

11/5/15 2:42 PM

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

NOVEMBER 2015
AN EDIT
OF THINGS
THAT ARE
HOT NOW

PAUL SMITH X CARAN DACHE


As a regular user of Caran dAches signature 849 pen, British designer Paul
Smith has teamed with the Swiss manufacturer to create ten new exclusive
colours for the writing instrument. Paul has always been known for his use of
colours and these limited edition pens is reflective of his signature. The ten
pens present confident and sophisticated shades, with several of the chosen
colours nodding to hues seen on the catwalk of recent Paul Smith collections.
To pay tribute to the 100 year heritage of Caran dAche, Smith has also
personally selected 100 colours that are presented together in an exclusive
box to form a stripe pattern. Ive used a Caran dAche pen for many years
and I hope that you will like these new colours, the designer says.

THE OVERDRESSED PAVILION


AT JEWELLERY ARABIA 2015

LACOSTE X PEANUTS
Lacostes signature crocodile emblem first got together with the iconic
Peanuts cartoon characters in 2010 to celebrate the comic strips
60th anniversary and this autumn, they are back with another capsule
collection collaboration. Snoopy, Charlie Brown, Lucy and Linus, get
up to their usual mischief; Snoopy is portrayed crocodile fishing from
his doghouse rooftop, while Linus gently wrestles the reptile for his
blanket, Lucy talks the croc into a game of tennis and Charlie Browns
birdie meets a surprising end, caught in the famous toothsome jaw.
The Lacoste crocodile fits right in with the Peanuts gang, says Hayato
Kohama, director of Special Product Design Inc and creative advisor for
the Peanuts line. Embroideries immortalising these 4 sketches adorn
the emblematic polo which comes in 3 colours white, navy and chin
grey. The collection is available in boutiques this month.

Glam_November_2015.indd 28

The Overdressed blog brought the quirky jeweller


Suzanne Kalan to our shores earlier this year during
the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition as an
extension to their partnership at Bahrains Jewellery
Arabia 2014. This year, the founder of the fashion
blog, Dana Al Khalifa, is continuing the initiative to
introduce more independent jewellers to the region
through The Overdressed Pavilion. We felt there
was a niche in the market; young working women do
not have much choice when it comes to purchasing
jewellery. It is either big diamonds with big prices
or small diamonds which have no effect. We bring
together a selection of jewellers who produce
beautiful pieces at prices which the young, working
woman can afford when she is treating herself. We
want women to be able to wear the jewels which
they work so hard to purchase, what is the point of
storing jewels away for special occasions? Dana
says. Suzanne Kalan will return to the pavillion,
alongside Aamaya by Priyanka, Charmaleena,
Halleh Jewellery, Istanboulli Gioielli Milano, and
Nuun Jewels. Jewellery Arabia 2015 will run from
24 28 November at the Bahrain International
Exhibition and Convention Centre.

11/5/15 2:42 PM

30 \ TRENDS

CHANEL RE-ACQUIRES
COCOS LUXURY
VILLA LA PAUSA
Chanel has re-acquired La
Pausa, the luxury villa on the
French Riviera built by the
labels legendary founder,
Gabrielle Coco Chanel, in
the 1920s. The fashion house
has bought the property,
which the famous designer
used to entertain figures
including Jean Cocteau and
Salvador Dali, before selling
it in 1954 following the death
of her friend, the Duke of
Westminster. The buyer at
that time, American writer and
publisher Emery Reves, in turn
hosted Winston Churchill and
Greta Garbo on the premises.
Chanel has announced that it
will refurbish the property in a
manner that reflects the luxury
brands culture and values.

Glam_November_2015.indd 30

ART DECO INSPIRATIONS


Dubai-based label, Bint Thani, presents
its new collection inspired by the art deco
movement with graphical references
to palm trees. Focusing on techniques
including the use of art deco shapes, , and
using a digital print that purely focuses
on geometric shapes and palm trees, the
colours largely revolve around beige,
black, vintage golden, maroon and dark
rich green. This season, the Bint Thani
Design Studio has collaborated with
Nisreen Shahin, the founder of This is

Hatch Concept Studio, to develop digital


prints on some of the collection styles.
I designed my collections with the
intention of giving women confidence in
their everyday lives by playing with strong
silhouettes, and flattering cuts that are
highly wearable yet sophisticated, the
labels founder Khulood Thani says.

11/5/15 2:42 PM

36 \ SPECIAL

Glam_November_2015.indd 36

11/5/15 2:43 PM

37

ETROS INTERIOR
COUTURE COMES TO ARABIA
THE AW2015 COLLECTION

or this season, Veronica Etro creates a collection that


circles her familys twin pursuit, the world of home
interiors and fashion. Ornate wallpapers, rich tapestries
and luxurious upholstery textiles provide a lush canvas
and new creative playground for beautifully-made
clothes. The opulence gets tamed with a new sense
of precision and an intimacy that feels cosy and warm. A dose of
eccentricity tones down the bourgeois formality, as the colours of
interiors get translated into a rigorous metropolitan style. Pattern
is, as always, at the heart of the collection. The swirling motifs of
furnishing fabrics are produced through weaving, printing and rich
embroideries. Graphic geometrics, inspired by carpet patterns,
create a soft optical effect. Paisley makes an appearance within the
deep folds of pleated dresses with a splayed skirt.
A mlange of different materials jacquards, velvets, sequins,
and printed silks are patched together to create rich, new
tapestry effects. Pleat-front dresses are a puzzle of printed silk, tie
prints and two different jacquards. Mink strips are inserted into
jacquard bedroom jackets. A denim jacket is newly configured
in slices of five different haberdashery ribbons. Coats are a
bricolage of mohair, embroideries and jacquards, or suede,
leather and exotic skins.
Sharply cut shapes are clean and exacting this season, allowing
for precise silhouettes. Sturdier fabrics create a crisp substance,
while the idea of homewear blankets and double faced fabrics

Glam_November_2015.indd 37

produce an undeniable ease. Two piece jacquard tunics and


pants, and wide leg pants and matching jackets are both inspired
by pyjama sets. Button-less coats wrap around the body like
robes. Shrunken patchworked waistcoats are layered over pants
and skirts. Long sleeve dresses, anchored with chunky belts, are
refined but cool.
The accessories underscore the collections play between order
and intricacy. Rich patchworks of exotic skins and upholstery-like
jacquards are reproduced on winter espadrilles, square heeled
tall boots, ankle strap platform shoes and structured handbags.
Clutches transform into shoppers, while a three flap postman bag
has an extendible strap. Chunky cuffs and chokers are crafted
from hammered gold metal and mixed with leather or crocodile.

The Special Doha Presentation


Etro will be presenting its AW15 collection in association with
Oryx Advertising Company, at a special event on November
11 at its boutique at Porto Arabia, The Pearl-Qatar. Key figures
from Etros design team will be present to highlight trend-setting
pieces from the collection in an exclusive setting to strengthen
the Interior Coutures aesthetics. For details on invitations please
contact sakala@omsqatar.com or denzita@omsqatar.com

11/5/15 2:43 PM

THE 101

KEY LOOKS

THE 8 ESSENTIAL LOOKS OF THE SEASON


AND WHAT TO STYLE THEM WITH.

Glam_November_2015.indd 38

11/5/15 2:43 PM

TRENDS / 39

BOARDROOM POWER
SLEEK TAILORING SETS THE
CANVAS FOR ACCESSORIES THAT
ARE EYE-CATCHING YET SUBTLE.

Prices provided where possible, otherwise, available upon request in store

1 Crossover bodysuit, QR1,058, Elisabetta Franchi,

2 Satin sash trousers, QR1,320, Elisabetta


Lagoona Mall.
3 Art 365 jumpsuit, QR968, Marella, Fifty One
Franchi.
4 Brooch with crystal and Plexiglas flower, QR2,420,
East.
5 Crocodile and suede tote, Santoni,
Prada, Villaggio Mall.
6 Dioring jungle necklace, QR5,535,
Porto Arabia.
7 Renata bootie, Raoul, Lagoona Mall.
Dior, Villaggio Mall.
8 Flat tote, QR5,479, Victoria Beckham,

www.victoriabeckham.com

Glam_November_2015.indd 39

4
5

11/5/15 2:43 PM

40 \ TRENDS

1
3

PRINT ON PRINT
SEPARATES IN CLASHING PRINTS
EXUDE AN ECLECTIC STYLE THAT IS
FINISHED WITH QUIRKY FRILLS.
1 Silk and poplin shirt, QR895, Max & Co, Lagoona Mall.

2 Jacquard cropped pants, QR802, Max & Co.

3 Resin earrings, Cline, Villaggio Mall.

4 Fox fur embellished boots, Rupert Sanderson,

5 Spray shoulder bag, QR10,800,


Fifty One East.
6 Fur cuff, Tods,
Balenciaga, Mall of the Emirates.
7 Delta croco scarf, QR692,
Villaggio Mall.

Zadig & Voltaire, www.zadigetvoltaire.com

Glam_November_2015.indd 40

11/5/15 2:43 PM

41
5

1
4

SWEATER WEATHER
THE ALL-COMFORTING KNIT
PIECES ARE PERFECT FOR THE URBAN
ON-THE-GO GIRL.
1 Wool turtleneck sweater dress, QR753, Iris & Ink,

2 Oversized cardigan, QR3,100,


The Outnet.
3 Hepburn mini bug bag,
Stella McCartney, Porto Arabia.

QR4,700, Aspinal of London, www.aspinaloflondon.com


4 Eskimo fur necklace, QR415, Dsquared 2,

5 Hair pin, Elisabetta Franchi.


www.dsquared2.com
6 Elyse star shoes, QR3,250, Stella McCartney,

7 Tribal necklace, Lanvin, Villaggio Mall.


Porto Arabia.

Prices provided where possible, otherwise, available upon request in store

Glam_November_2015.indd 41

11/5/15 2:44 PM

42 \ TRENDS

THE BELLA EFFECT


CLASSIC BELL-BOTTOM JEANS PAIRED WITH
A BASIC TOP ACE THE
ALL-TIME FAVOURITE FOR CASUAL JAUNTS.
1 Textured cropped crew neck tee, Alice & Olivia, Lagoona Mall.

2 Low rise bell jeans, QR892, Alice & Olivia, Lagoona Mall.

3 Camelot bag, CH Carolina Herrera, Villaggio Mall.

4 Zodiac scarf, QR1600, Emilio Pucci, The Gate Mall.

5 Statement necklace, Marella, Fifty One East.

6 Domo biker backpack, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Villaggio Mall.

7 Hunting cap, Miu Miu, Villaggio Mall.

Glam_November_2015.indd 42

11/5/15 2:44 PM

43

ON THE STREET
IT IS ALL ABOUT MAKING A
STATEMENT WITH THIS LOOK THAT
BRINGS OUT A REBELLIOUS STREAK.
1 Initial t-shirt, QR650, McQ, Mall of the Emirates.

2 Asymmetrical skirt, QR2,150, McQ.


3 Zip shearling

moto boot, QR2,167, Coach, www.coach.com

4 Natalia fur high-top sneakers, QR9,100, Giuseppie

5 Solaris ring, QR2,285, Louis


Zanotti, Porto Arabia.
6 Studded cage belt, QR6,857,
Vuitton, Villaggio Mall.
7 Stone tassel necklace,
Philipp Plein, Porto Arabia.

QR1,075, Tory Burch, Lagoona Mall.

Prices provided where possible, otherwise, available upon request in store

Glam_November_2015.indd 43

11/5/15 2:44 PM

44 \ TRENDS
4

PARTY FAVOURS
CLASSIC DRESS FORMS WITH
A LITTLE TWIST FOR A SPECIAL
EVENING OUT ON THE TOWN.

1 Leather dress, Fatema Fardan, www.fatemafardan.com

2 Asymmetrical dress, QR921, Purificacin Garcia,

3 Metal cuff, Etro,


www.purificaciongarcia.com
4 Show evening bag, QR3,680, Aigner,
Porto Arabia.
5 Lyra heels, QR850, Catherine de Medici,
Porto Arabia.
6 Pearl choker, Carolina Herrera.
Per Lei Couture.
7 Rose knuckle lace box, QR10,100,

Alexander McQueen, Porto Arabia.

Glam_November_2015.indd 44

11/5/15 2:44 PM

45

THE IT COAT
STAY WARM WITH THESE STANDOUT
COATS THAT GO WITH JUST ABOUT ANY
OTHER BASIC PIECES IN YOUR WARDROBE.
2

1 Zodiac blazer, QR22,400, Emilio Pucci.

2 Oversized cropped trousers, QR2,450, Stella McCartney.

3 Floral tapestry jacquard Coat, QR4,350, M Missoni,

4 Bow platforms, Delpozo,


The Gate Mall.
5 Queen Mary handbag, QR4,232,
www.delpozo.com
6 Peekaboo Marquetry fur clutch, QR11,474,
Dsquared2.
7 Horn ring, Tory Burch.
Fendi, Villaggio Mall.

Prices provided where possible, otherwise, available upon request in store

Glam_November_2015.indd 45

11/5/15 2:44 PM

46 \ TRENDS

1
3

FLORAL FROCKS
WHETHER AS AN APPLIQU OR AN
ALL-OVER PRINT, FLORALS BRING
CHEER TO THE IMPENDING COLD DAYS.

Glam_November_2015.indd 46

Prices provided where possible, otherwise, available upon request in store

1 Appliqud scuba and organza mini dress,

2 Cosima embroidered
QR5,654, Delpozo, Net-A-Porter.
silk-organza dress, QR13,755, Erdem, Matches Fashion.
3 Square abstract sunglasses, QR1,861, Dior,

4 Flamenco micro petal bag, QR6,520,


Villaggio Mall.
5 Transparent box tote,
Loewe, Villaggio Mall.
6 Gommette ballerinas,
Mark Cross, Fifty One East.
QR2,460, Roger Vivier.

11/5/15 2:44 PM

DIVERSITY
IS KEY
Glam_November_2015.indd 48

11/5/15 2:45 PM

Y
Y

TRENDS / 49
MUCH HAS BEEN
SAID ABOUT
OLIVIER ROUSTEING
ON HIS YOUTH,
HIS SOCIAL MEDIA
POPULARITY, HIS
CONTINUOUSLY
SUCCESSFUL
TENURE AT BALMAIN
AND HIS INNATE
ABILITY TO RELATE
TO FASHION LOVERS
ACROSS THE BOARD.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Olivier remains in the current fashion


landscape as a rare standout talent that
has broken through the intangible webs
that often cloud the industry, be it in
diversity or inclusivity. His frank and open
portrayal of himself through social media
channels has made him a very relatable
figure for fashion fans worldwide, even
though Balmain is not an easily accessible
brand from a price point perspective.
Thus, the upcoming H&M collaboration
with the luxury French house is one
that will break records. The global
conversation is something that takes
place twenty-four hours a day, but our
designer collaborations are a really special
moment when the whole world comes
together to celebrate fashion with us, says
Ann-Sofie Johansson, creative advisor
at H&M. Sure, the inevitable queues will
form at H&M stores worldwide annually
when collaborations are launched, but
this years #Balmaination campaign
specifically addresses the theme of
inclusivity and that it is a collection for
all. Olivier is mixing traditions and
craftsmanship with pop culture and fresh
energy to create something very unique
and new, says Ann-Sofie. Bonus points,
are of course, that the collection truly
embodies the DNA and signature of
Balmain, including the intricate heavy
embroideries and form-fitting silhouettes.
In this collaboration, there are some
of Prive
Armani

Glam_November_2015.indd 49

11/5/15 2:45 PM

50

the most elaborate pieces weve ever


created, Ann-Sofie says. As we gear up
to the launch at H&Ms store in Villaggio
Mall, Olivier shares some of his thoughts
on matters that are dear to his heart, and
what he hopes to achieve through his
work.
Why is diversity and inclusivity important
to you and how does this translate into the
collaboration?
Diversity is my biggest hashtag, because
it is so important for me to show the
world as it is. Its sad that Im the only
black designer at a French luxury house.
Any catwalk that doesnt have diverse
casting is just so old-minded. If you are
in fashion today, you need to welcome
everyone, every colour, every age. The
Balmain collaboration with H&M is all
about diversity, because H&M is now
available in so many countries around
the world and I want to send to them this
message of power and strength.

Ann-Sofie Johansson,
creative advisor at H&M.

In this collaboration,
there are some of the most
elaborate pieces weve ever
created, Ann-Sofie says.

Glam_November_2015.indd 50

What is the concept behind this


collaboration?
As soon as we agreed to the
collaboration, I knew exactly what I
wanted to do. So many of my followers
on Instagram around the world dream of
wearing Balmain, and I wanted to turn
that dream into a reality. Whenever I
post something, they tell me what they
like and what they dont like. I wanted
this collection to give everyone the true
Balmain experience. Ive had so much
fun working with the H&M team. They
understood that with Balmain, there is
no compromise. They have pushed and
challenged themselves to create these
pieces that have the real Balmain DNA.
You really speak to the younger generation
as someone who is vibrant and hip, and
someone that people can look up to. How do

11/5/15 2:45 PM

TRENDS / 51

you feel, being an inspiring figure at such a


young age?
It feels like a real achievement for me,
and something that makes me very proud
and also excited for the future. When I
was a teenager, I was an H&M kid, always
at the front of the queue for the next
collaboration. I had no idea then that
one day I would be creative director of a
house with my own collaboration. I hope
that I can be an inspiration to today's kids
in the front of the line, that if they work
hard and believe in themselves, maybe
one day itll be their turn to collaborate
with H&M.
How did you develop this love for sensual
aesthetics? Has this always been how you
viewed the female form?
Ive always loved the power and attitude
that comes from fashion, that when
you wear clothes it can feel like armour
against the world. Im also French, and
so grew up with an idea of glamour and
sensuality that is part of our couture
tradition. At Balmain I love to give
women this confidence and strength
through the silhouette, with the most
amazing craftsmanship and richness. This
Balmain attitude is in every piece of the
H&M collaboration.
There are a lot of issues that you stand up
strongly for in the fashion industry. How
do you hope to affect change in the fashion
landscape?
Diversity is in everything that I do at
Balmain, and it is my dream that in my
time it is no longer an issue. Diversity for
me also includes the audience for fashion.
Im trying to show that fashion is not just
for the front row, but for so many people
around the world. I want to show that you
can be a Parisian luxury house with all
of its exclusivity and glamour, and at the
same time talk to the entire world.

Glam_November_2015.indd 51

11/5/15 2:45 PM

J E W E L L E R

S
Glam_November_2015.indd 52

TO T H E

S
11/5/15 2:45 PM

FASHION / 53

A man who has been called crazy time


and again throughout his career, Fawaz
Gruosi is certainly taking no offense to
heart, as his offbeat ideas have birthed
nothing but glittering success.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Bold and vivacious is the DNA that


permeates de Grisogonos jewellery pieces,
an attribute that recalls the personality
and drive of its founder, Fawaz Grousi.
At the annual Cannes Film Festival,
de Grisogonos repertoire of bespoke
high-end jewellery pieces make their
appearances on the red carpet worn by
stars and celebrities. The couture pieces
often take on a life of their own with their
enigmatic designs and brilliant big stones,
have cemented de Grisogonos stature in
the world of precious gems. The success
of the house, however, draws not on old
world heritage, but one that is of sheer
dedication and innovation.
Fawazs risky decision to embark on this
capital-intensive business two decades
ago has become the kind of story that is of
entrepreneur legends. Going against the
odds, de Grisogono has found itself in the
sphere of established jewellery names, yet
retains the vibrant appeal of contemporary
brands. Its ready-to-wear collections
feature motifs of skulls and animals, while
timepieces boast complicated movements
with edgy aesthetics. Fawaz calls this his
disruptive creations, with the potential
of jewellery to be an exciting and relevant
part of womens lives. It is an art of
continually coming up with something
unexpected, original and new, he says.
By defying traditional rules and

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challenging the codes of fine jewellery,


Fawaz set the tone for the houses meteoric
rise. They were the first jewellers to use
black diamonds, and also the first to
utilise the soft frosty opaque glow that
comes from heavily-included diamonds,
which are considered as imperfect by the
industry. I am not interested in following
trends. We distinguish ourselves by being
different, he says. These innovations
included the Browny Brown gold with its
warm chestnut coloured sheen, the use of
unlikely materials like nano-ceramics and
galuchat for watch straps, and unexpected
time-telling displays in the watch
collections. Through his jewellery designs,
Fawaz has introduced new ways for his
clients to perceive jewellery.
How did the journey into jewellery begin?
When I moved to Florence, I got my very
first job in a jewellery store. I fell deeply in
love with the craftsmanship and the work
that the artisans do. In the following years,
I was able to build a career working for
Harry Winston and Bulgari. During this
time, I honed my skills but I also came to
the realisation that this very traditional
industry was often too conventional
and out of step with the fast pace of
contemporary fashion. I felt the urge to put
my own stamp on the industry and follow
my creativity and personal vision. Finally

in 1993, I was able to establish my own


brand, de GRISOGONO.
Tell us about your love for the black diamond.
The black diamond cast a sort of spell on
me. The story of the historic Black Orlov, a
very large black diamond, fascinated me to
the point where I began researching these
dark and enigmatic stones. I found them
captivating: they are magnetic, mirrorlike and extremely difficult to cut, hence
they were often rejected by the industry
standards. I perfected my expertise and
launched a first collection devoted to the
black diamond in 1996. It was perfectly
timed at a moment where monochrome
minimalist was very popular. This was the
starting point of a massive global jewellery
style-trend which continues until today.
The brand shares a deep relationship with
the Cannes Film Festival. How did this begin,
and why is it important to you?
It happened by accident. The first time
I came to Cannes in 2000, we were
supposed to just lend jewellery to some
stars. The following year, I decided to
take it a bit more seriously by giving small
dinner parties for clients and potential
clients. Back then it was around 30 to
40 people, and after 15 years, we find
ourselves hosting a very large annual
event at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc for

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FASHION / 55

600 guests. Since early February this


year, people have been calling, writing
and asking for an invitation, and by
mid- March, we were totally booked. The
organisation is definitely a headache, but
the kind that we like. We feel very blessed
to have so many friends of the brand
coming every year to be with us on this
very special occasion.
The party has become very important
for us in terms of sales and PR as it is
the not-to-be-missed event during the
festival. In addition to the party, we also
hold an exhibition in a private suite of
the Martinez Hotel. In the customised
suite and its terrace, we host our friends
and clients in a very unique and relaxing
atmosphere where we reveal a full years
worth of creations.
What are the important elements that you
consider in your creation process?
I do not limit myself when it comes to
creating or designing. Everything is
impossible until it becomes possible. I
dont have a commercial mindset and I
prefer to let my mind roam free to create
jewellery and timepieces as independently
as possible from any kind of technical,
temporal or financial boundaries. I only
follow my instincts, for me creating has to
be a pure expression of passion.
My creative process is almost always the
same. It usually starts with an idea running
through my head, shapes or colours,
which I then bring to paper. Once I have
the design I start looking for the right
gems that will ideally suit the creation.
These designs are then brought to life
by the team in the ateliers. Sometimes,
it takes us years to finally bring a project
into existence, but so far, we have always
managed to deliver.

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De Grisogono is set to become a legacy, what


does the future hold?
Just as any other brand, de Grisogono is
first and foremost a team of exceptional
individuals and each one of us has our own
set of skills, each placed their own brick
in building this brand. The departure of
any of us for whatever reason is always
a difficult situation, mainly on a human
level, as we have a genuine almost familylike bond. As long as this strong spirit
remains, I see a long and bright future
ahead.

I do not limit myself


when it comes to creating
or designing. Everything
is impossible until it
becomes possible.
What was the first piece of jewellery that you
made, and what significance did it hold for
you?
I cant really remember the very first one,
but I do remember one of my earliest
creations that I believe was a turning point
in my career. It was a ring, the first piece
of jewellery I have ever created using black
diamonds. Such a wonderful piece, really
an exceptional one. It had, if memory
serves, approximately 110 or 120 black
diamonds set all around, for approximately
16 or 17 carats, as well as a beautiful 16 or
17mm white pearl. The contrast between
the lustrous creamy white of the pearl and
the shiny black of the diamonds worked
perfectly. A heavenly combination.

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