Fantasia

Collection1 Quilt
Embroidery Designed and Digitized by Janet
Sansom
Quilt Constructed by Bronwyn vant Hof

General Requirements:
Fabric:
460 cm fabric based on 110 wide quilters muslin
120cm sashing and binding fabric 110 cm wide
380cm backing fabric 110cm wide
190cm batting
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Note: It is recommended fabrics be 100 per cent cotton, prewashed and well ironed It is recommend you spray starch the
back and use iron on paper on fabric to be embroidered. The iron
on paper acts as a hooping aid and stabilizes and prevents
movement in fabric. You also need to use a medium tearaway
stabilizer. Seam allowances of are used throughout and
included in the cutting instructions.
Cotton Construction Thread
80/12 Universal Machine Needle for construction
80/12 Embroidery Needle
Tearaway Stabilizer
Iron on Paper
Embroidery Threads
Bobbin fill
9 embroidery setting square template
Rotary Cutter and Cutting Mat
Fantasia Collection 1 by Janet Sansom embroidery designs.
Finished Quilt Size: Measures 65.5 inches square (166cm)

Embroidery Instructions

This embroidery design set comprises 22 designs

19 100 x 100mm designs are used for the quilt blocks, 18 are
stitched twice diagonally, which make up 9, 200mm x 200mm
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blocks and 1 design is rotated and stitched 4 times, 1 cornerstone

which is stitched 12 times, 1 endless border design and 1 corner
border design

Cutting Instructions:
Embroidered blocks are cut larger than needed due to shrinkage
that occurs and also allows room for hooping.
From the quilters muslin cut borders first the length of the fabric:
Cut 4 strips the length of the fabric 8 x 66 inches, these are cut
longer to allow for hooping embroidery.
Cut 13, 12 inch square blocks (or large enough to accommodate
hoop), these will be cut down to 9 square.
Cut 12, 6 inch square blocks (or large enough to accommodate
hoop), these will be cut down to 4 inches square after
embroidering.
Corner Border Blocks: Cut 4 squares 6 x 6 inches or large enough
to accommodate hoop, these are cut down to 4 inches square
after embroidering

Embroidering Blocks:
Download designs to your machine.
The designs have already combined and customised to make up
the 200 x 200mm blocks for large hoop machines or for two
hoopings 100 x 200mm for medium hoop machines.
Formats which require two hoopings refer to diagram:
Stitch the right hand side of the block marked (a), remove
stabilizers carefully, iron face down on a towel, rehoop to stitch
the left hand side of the block marked (b).
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If using the smaller hoop machine draw a square 100 x 100 mm

in the centre of the 14 square fabric and the corners of the
drawn square shall be the centre of your designs. Continue to
draw through vertical and horizontal lines out from the square to
give the axis for embroidery placement. (Refer to diagram below)

Mark the top of your fabric and ensure your fabric is always facing
this way to enable you to rotate the design the correct way.
Stitch out in top right position first making sure you have rotated
the design, hoop up the tearaway stabilizer and fabric in the top
right of your fabric, making sure the lines of the fabric square line
up with the centre hoop marking.
When embroidery is completed, remove from the hoop, cut any
jump stitches and gently remove tearaway stabilizer.
Lay the block face down on a towel and press.
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Make sure when looking at your first design it is to the top right of
you. Re-hoop stabilizer and fabric again for the bottom right
corner, rotate design and stitch out. Continue this process with
bottom left then top left until complete.
Repeat this process to embroider the remaining blocks.
Iron all embroidered blocks face down on a thick towel (this
prevents flattening embroidery) and spray starch.
Cut these 13 embroidered blocks down to 9 making sure the
embroidery is centred.
The embroidery cutting squares I have recommended have soft padded feet
which raise the template above the embroidery work; this ensures theres no
slipping or moving while cutting. They have centre markings and certainly
overcome costly and timely cutting mistakes.

Stitch 12 corner stone blocks and cut down to 4 inches square

Stitch 4 corner border blocks and cut down to 4 inches square

Borders: 17 embroideries fit for small hoop machines. For large
hoop machines the design has been customized as an endless
border which stitches two designs at once and can be stitched in 8
hoopings, together with a single design.

Draw a chalk pencil line down the long centre of the fabric, there
is an allowance of 4 inches bottom and top to accommodate hoop.
Centre your first design at the top of the fabric and using the
stitch nodes continue to line up continuous border. Centre and cut
down to 58 inches long, 4 inches wide.
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Please note: when using a continuous border although the math adds up on paper you may find
the borders still dont fit the quilt centre. This is due to fabric shrinkage, stretching or the
amount of distance between hooping. The exact same border may be a few millimeters out from
the other.
It may also be due to the width of your inch seam allowance, it may be scant or too generous,
and Ive noticed also that inch machine feet can vary between brands. It is usual practice to
make borders to fit the quilt centre but in the case of embroidered borders you may need to make
your centre to fit the border. You can overcome this dilemma by adding or subtracting from the
width of a sashing.

Quilt Instructions
Cut binding strips first, you will need seven 2 inch strips, set
aside.
Cut the remaining fabric into 1 inch wide strips. Cross cut to make
26, 9 inches and 26, 10 inches. Cross cut to make 12, 4
inches and 12, 5 inches. The remaining strips are used later
for the sashing around the quilt, set aside.
Stitch the 9 inch strips to each opposite side of the 13, 9
inch blocks, press seams towards the sashing fabric, then stitch
the 10 inch strips to top and bottom of blocks, press seams
towards the sashing fabric.
Stitch the 4 inch strips to each opposite side of the 12 corner
stone blocks, press seams towards the sashing fabric, then stitch
to 5 inch strips to top and bottom of blocks, press seams
towards the sashing fabric.
From the Quilters Muslin cut 7 strips the width of the fabric 5
inches wide and cross cut 10 inches to make 36 segments.

From the Quilters Muslin cut 2 blocks 15 3/8 inches and cut in half
diagonally twice. (Side triangles)

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From the Quilters Muslin cut 3 blocks 8 inches square and cut
in half diagonally twice. (Side triangles)

From the Quilters Muslin cut 2 blocks 7 15/16 inches square and
cut in half diagonally. (Corners)

Layout:
Using the layout diagram below as a guide, join blocks together in diagonal
rows abutting the seams at the intersections and pressing them towards the
sashing. Leaving a inch seam allowance, cut down.

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Sashing:
From the 1 inch sashing strips cut earlier join on the bias to
create 2 strips 57 inches long, stitch these to the top and
bottom of quilt, press seams into sashing.
Create 2 strips 58 inches long, stitch these to each side of the
quilt, press seams into sashing.
Borders:
Centre borders to quilt, pin and stitch top and bottom borders to
quilt, press seams into sashing
Stitch corner borders to the top and bottom of the each of the
remaining borders, stitch to sides of quilt, press seams into
sashing.

Backing:
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Cut the backing fabric into two equal lengths, remove the
selvedges, sew them side-by-side and press the seam open. To
enable machine quilting the backing and batting need to be 10cm
(4) bigger than the quilt top on every side, cut off excess.
Quilting:
This quilt was machine quilted by Desley Regan of Addicted to
Quilts, she ditch stitched along each side of the sashing strips. A
feather motif was quilted around each of the 9 floral blocks and
the stems were stitched around to anchor the middle of the block.
In the 4 diagonal design blocks she stitched along the stems, the
corner stone design was stitched in the same manner together
with the border and corner border design. She cross hatched in
between the blocks and side and corner triangles.
Binding:
Join the 2 inch strips cut earlier together to form one long
piece.
Join on 45 degree angle, trim to inch and press

Fold in half lengthways with the wrong sides together. Working

from the wrong side, align the raw edges of the binding to the
quilt and sew in place using a 1/4in (6mm) seam allowance.
Attach the binding to the quilt with a walking foot, mitring the
corners as you go.
Turn the folded edge to the front and pin. I used a blanket stitch
2.5mm wide and 2.5mm long. You can use coordinating
embroidery thread, but if so, whatever you use on the top must
also be used in the bobbin.
Using the previous stitching line as your guide, stitch the top and
bottom sides first, fold in the mitred corners and then stitch the
two sides.
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9 1/2in embroidery setting square templates are available

exclusively from Somerset Patchwork & Quilting, 491 High Street
Road, Mt. Waverley Vic 3149. Phone (03) 9807 3399, email
sales@somersetpatchwork.com.au or visit
www.somersetpatchwork.com.au
Desley Regan from Addicted to Quilts can be contacted by email
desley@addictedtoquilts.com.au or phone (03) 98330 3320
This quilt was constructed by Bronwyn vant Hof, she can be
contacted on 0419 567 040 or email:
bronwynvanthof@bigpond.com

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