Water Structuring Methods and Designs

House Trap/Levitation Trap
ASSEMBLY OF THE TINY TRAP

By John V. Milewski
August June 2001
PROCEDURE:
A. Vortex chamber sub-assembly

Refer to parts list at the end for the list number and description of all parts.
1. Take the 1 slip coupling (Part 1) and grind down the ridge in the center.
1 " slip coupling
View of ridge in center of coupling
Grinding off ridge
Coupling with ridge ground off

2. Take two 1 slip to threaded bushing (Parts 2) and hammer or press into the 1
coupler (Part 1). Before pressing, coat all contact side of Parts 2 and only the lead
in surface of Part 1 with PVC solvent cement (Part 3).
1 " Slip to " threaded bushing
Vortex chamber parts
Ready to put solvent on fitting
Assembled vortex chamber

After assembly, reach inside with tissue on small finger and wipe off any excess
cement that might have squeezed out at the contact joint between the two bushings.
3. File the eight corner edges on Part 2 on one side of the vortex chamber assembly
to allow the magnet (Part 12) to fit over it on to the assembly.
Filing corners of fitting
Magnet around trap body

B. Drilling of side port hole porthole in vortex chamber sub-assembly.
1. Carefully measure the position where you calculate the contact center will be for
the two slip bushing inside of the coupling and mark this on the outside to locate the
drilling position for the input nozzle. Since, in some cases, the length of the coupling
(Part 1) is shorter then the two lengths of the slip bushings (Parts 2), you cannot use
the center of the coupling as the place to drill. (Photo 11)
2. Mount the vortex chamber assembly in a vice or fixture to hold it in a vertical

position. In this vertical position measure in 5/16 of an inch from the straight surfaces
of one of the octagonal faces of the Part 2 and draw a cord line from one edge to the
other. From one outside edge of this line, draw a line down to the drilling position
marked earlier. Insert a 1/8 inch drill bit (Tool 1) in the electric drill (Tool 2) and
position it perpendicular to the side and parallel to the top to the location just marked.
This is where you start drilling in to form the input hole for the injector nozzle. Note!
it is difficult to get the drill bit started by coming in at such a side angle so start the
drilling perpendicular to the surface for the first 1/16 of an inch and then reposition,
while the drill is still running, to the correct position as shown in the pictures.
Drilling input hole
Drilling input hole (from above)

3. After drilling through to the center, clean the hole by hand with the drill bit to
remove any residual edges or burrs.
4. Next bore out or enlarge the hole just made for about 1/8 of an inch using a
inch drill bit (Tool 3). This is the size hole needed to receive the nose of the sweeper
nozzle to be inserted later. Be careful as the drill bit may want to go in all the way so
hold it back to only 1/8 inch countersink.
Input hole showing countersink for sweeper nozzle

C. Cutting and assembly of input port for injection nozzle.
1. Take two of Parts 4(1/2X4 PVC threaded nipple) and thread into Part 5 (1/2
female to female threaded coupling). Lay this assembly on a board and hold it in place
with nails.
Ready to cut input coupling

2. Put the 2 inch hole saw (Tool 4) with a inch pilot bit inside into the electric
drill. The pilot bit should be long enough to extend at least 2 inches beyond the end of
the hole saw.
Hole saw in drill

3. Start the drilling with the inch drill bit as close as possible to the contact
position of the pipe nipple and the treaded coupler. Use the position of the drill in the
wooden frame to keep the position of the hole saw steady when cutting the threaded
coupler.
Looking straight down on threaded input coupler
Ready to cut threaded input coupler
Half way through the threaded input coupler

4. Once you start drilling and sawing continue as smoothly and as uniformly as
possible to prevent gouging and formation of ridges in the cut bushing so less sanding
will be required when finished. When sanding use the outside of the slip coupling
(vortex chamber assembly) as a guide for the sandpaper to obtain the correct curve on
the matching surface to be bonded.
Rough inlet port after hole sawing
Sanding inlet port against vortex chamber assembly
Inlet port after sanding
Side view of inlet port after sanding

5. After sanding the surface of Part 5 smooth, place the vortex chamber assembly
(Parts 1 and 2) in a vise to position it for bonding.
6. Apply a generous supply of the PVC solvent cement (Part 3) to both contacting
surfaces. Wait a few seconds to allow the cement to soften and bond to the plastic
parts and then position the curve cut threaded coupler centered over the hole just
drilled in the vortex chamber assembly and hold it in place with tape as shown below:
Inlet port being solvent welded to vortex chamber assembly

7. Apply extra solvent cement to any gaps in the contact area and/or wipe off any
large excess.
Applying extra solvent cement to fill gaps

D. Addition of nozzle into input port.
1. Take the plastic sweeper nozzle (Part 6) and place it in a vice and cut off the nose
portion.
Plastic sweeper nozzle
Cutting off nose of plastic sweeper nozzle

2. Sand off the rough edges and taper the input edge with a razor knife to permit a
smoother in flow of the water.
Tapering input edge of plastic sweeper nozzle

3. Glue the nozzle into the hole prepared in the vortex chamber assembly.
4. Cover the threads on the " male threaded pipe to female hose connector (Part 7)
The Effects of Magnetic

Water
By
John V. Milewski
December 21 2003
About 4 months ago I started drinking what I call magnetic water as
a means of energizing my body. After a month or so an unusual

effect started to show up.
It first showed up on a friend of mine called Bob S. I introduced him
to the methods of making magnetic water. He took it up and in his
experimentation he went a little further than I did. He was
processing his water for about 5 days and drinking 3 cups a day,
while I was only processing it for 2 to 3 days. He reported to me that

his hair was turning dark, especially in the back of his head near the
neck line. As time went on, this effect spread upward and more
toward the front. Now after about 4 months his hair is about 95%
dark in the back and about 80%, and in the sides and front and his
beard about 50% dark.
At that time, which was about 3 months ago, I started watching my

own hair. Before I started drinking what I call "magnetic water" my
head hair was about 90% gray, and the hair on my beard and
mustache was 100% gray. I did not know about the effect of this
energized water hair so I was not watching it for the first few
months. So when I first noticed it the hair on the back of my head
had already turned about 30% dark; now after about 4 to 5 months
my hair on the sides, back and top is about 60% turned. My

mustache is about 50% turned dark while the beard is still pure
white-gray.
As a result of these effects I decided to upgrade my processing

facility and make it possible for me to have 5 day water. Five day
water is defined as water that remains in the magnetic activation
apparatus for a minimum of 5 days. Previous to that I was only using
2 to 3 day water. Now we drink a minimum of 3 cups of this water a
day and probably 5 to 6 cups.

What is very unusual about these changes is that the whole hair
changes at once from gray to black. It does not start at the roots
and grow out but the whole length of the hair turns at once. You may
have heard of stories about a person who experienced a terrible
shock in their life and their hair turned white over night, well I
believe that this magnetic water has the reverse effect, but at a
much smaller amount and it takes months to see the effect but the
positive effect is there and is real.
The apparatus for making this water is very simple. It consists of an
empty new one gallon, in paint can, in which is placed an empty one
liter soda bottle that has the top cut off at the level where it starts to
get narrower. In the space between the inner wall of the paint can
and the empty one liter container, magnetite is poured. This makes
a cylinder of powdered magnetite about one and one half inches
thick surrounding the one liter size hole in the center. Into this hole
is placed a standard bottle of store bought spring water that is about
710 ml size (that's a 3 cup volume of water). It fits in very nicely.
You make up a minimum of five of these units. Take one bottle out
every day and drink the water.
What I think is happening is that the magnetite which is a strong
magnetic suscepter is concentrating the earth's magnetic fields into
it's cylindrical shape and the shape effect, in turn, sets up a
magnetic spiral vortex in the core of the cylinder in which the water
is stored. This in turn activates the water with the magnetic energy.
I think this is the activating force for change in our bodies toward
regeneration, as we drink it, and the hair color restoration is the first
sign of this happening. A second sign is that my fingernails are
growing faster and stronger and my skin seems to be getting
smother and softer, in spots, with less skin tags.
Bob S had to go to the dentist to have two molars crowned. He had

been drinking the water for about two months before going to the
dentist. The dentist told him that he was going to have to do two
root canals at $475.00 each before he could do the crowns. When
the dentist removed the old fillings he was surprised because he
said that where the root was supposed to be, the molars had
calcified! He couldn't believe it! He said he had never seen anything
like it. Bob S was really happy because he saved $950.00!with Teflon
tape and screw it into place.
" male threaded pipe to female hose connector
Completed vortex chamber and inlet port assembly

5. When the assembly is complete look down the attachment just made through the
nozzle to see that the hole is still clear. Remove any excess cement if necessary.
Look into inlet port to be sure the hole is clear of solvent cement
E. Addition of m-state exit port and main water outlet.
1. Cut two pieces of the 3/8" braided poly rope (Part 8) 12 inches long. Obtain a
piece of wire (Part 9) twelve inches long, copper or steel, what ever. Next get the 1/2
X 4 PVC pipe (Part 4) and ream out one end with a razor knife to about 1/8 to
eliminate the sharp edge and make the end like a small funnel.
Ready to pull poly rope through the 4" pipe nipple

2. Screw this end into a threaded coupler (Part 5) and put this assembly into a vice
or holding fixture. Now take the two pieces of braided poly rope and bend them in
half. At this bend put the wire through the loop and twist the wire to hold the rope
together. Next push the wire through the 4 inch pipe nipple and on through the
threaded coupler. Bend the poly rope and squeeze it so it can be pulled through the
pipe into the threaded coupler.
Pulling the braided poly rope through the pipe nipple and coupler
Braided poly rope is far enough i

3. Using pliers, pull the poly rope through the pipe just enough to have the loop of
the poly rope projecting about of an inch beyond the end of the pipe.
Ready to remove the pull wire from the poly rope loo
Now take the pipe out of the vice and take off the threaded coupler to expose the poly
rope coming through the pipe. Cut the wire on one end as close as possible to the poly
loop and pull the wire out. Grab the tail end of the poly rope and pull it back till the
loop is flush with the end of the pipe.
Using the vise to pull the poly rope back till it is flush
4. Examine the end of the poly rope that is still projecting out of the end of the pipe.
The rough end of the poly rope is now cut off flush. At this point there are several
ways you can finish the top end of the m-state exit port depending on the availability
of various fittings at your hardware store. These ways are illustrated below.
Different ways of finishing off the top end of the m-state exit port
For the purposes of this document we will describe the method illustrated in the center
above. Put the threaded coupler back on the pipe nipple opposite the end with the
folded end of the poly rope.
5. Take the 1/2 "threaded nylon to tubing barb (Part 10) and ream or carve out the
inside on the " threaded end as shown below.
Nylon tubing barb adapter showing tapered inside cut

Then screw this into the open end of part 5 that is attached to the 4" nipple with the
poly braid inside. Now screw this outlet assembly into the vortex assembly, as shown
below, on the end opposite that which will hold the magnet structure assembly. Next
take the " male to 5/8" hose barb (Part 11) and screw this in to the other end of the
vortex assembly. This is the waster water outlet. Both outlets are shown below.
Vorte
F. Magnet structure assembly.
1. The magnetic assembly consists of four parts. Two ring magnets (Part 12), one 1"
floor flange (Part 13) and one 1" X 2" galvanized pipe nipple (Part 14 ).
2. Assemble the pipe nipple into the floor flange.
Pipe nipple screwed into floor flange

3. Now slip the magnets over the end of the vortex assembly that it fits on. Then add
the floor flange assembly.
Vortex chamber assembly with first of the two magnets on i

G. Leg assembly
1. The leg assembly consists of ten parts. One 8" X 8" X " acrylic sheet (Part 15),
Three end caps for " PVC pipe (Part 16) and three 1"X1/4"-20 stainless bolts and
nuts (Part 17) and three pieces of : PVC pipe cut to 7" length (Part 18).
2. Take the acrylic sheet (Part 15) and draw a line from corner to corner. This will
locate the center. Draw a 3 1/4" radius circle. Mark off three equally spaced spots on
this circle in order to locate the position for the legs. The first spot is at top center and
the other two at 5 " distance from the point where it intersects the circle.
Hole locations laid out on acrylic sheet

3. Drill a "hole at each of these marked positions. Next drill a hole in the center
with the hole saw (Tool 4) used earlier.
4.
Next take the three end caps and sand the ends to form a flat on the end.
5.
Drill a " hole in the ends of each cap.
Leg parts with holes in end caps

6. Put the screws in from the bottom of the plastic sheet and place the end caps on
the screws. Screw on the nut and tighten fully.
7. Next put the PVC pipes into the caps and press down firmly. This is the leg stand
for the vortex assembly.
Completed leg assembly

8.
Put the vortex assembly with magnets and flange in place in the leg assembly.
9. Now add the 18 inch length of " clear plastic tubing (Part 19). The unit is now
complete.
Completed Tiny Trap

H. Options
1. A plastic quick disconnect (Part 20) for the input nozzle.
Quick disconnect coupler

2. A water filter (Omni, Culligan or equivalent) is preferred if city water is
chlorinated or if your water source contains sediment.
PARTS LIST FOR TINY TRAP:
Part
#
Part description
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
1 " Slip coupling

1 " Slip to " threaded bushing
PVC Cement
" X 4" PVC nipple
" female-to-female threaded coupler
Plastic sweeper nozzle
" male threaded pipe to female hose
7.
connector
8.
9.
10.
11.
" braided poly rope

12 inch long wire
" threaded Nylon to " tubing barb
" male pipe to 5/8" hose barb
Ring magnet (2.25 ID X 5.375 OD X
12.
0.75 thick)
1" Floor flange (US made for smooth
13.
bottom surface)
14. 1" X 2" galvanized pipe nipple

15. 8" X 8" X 1/4" clear acrylic sheet
16. Three " slip PVC end caps
3 - 1" -20 stainless bolts with nuts
17.
(stainless preferred)
18. 3 - 7" pieces of " PVC pipe
19. 1/8" clear plastic tubing 18" long
20. Plastic hose quick disconnect
Estimated cost of all parts with magnets:

$40 to $45
TOOL LIST
The magnets can be

obtained from
1. 1/8 inch drill

bit
Master Magnetic Inc.
2. Electric drill
3. inch drill
bit
4. 2 1/4 hole
saw
5. Razor knife.
607 South Gilbert St.

Castle Rock, Colorado 80104
888-293-9399 Ext. 122
Type CR 525CN
@$11. Each Plus S&H
Vortex Trap
All magnetic traps rely somewhat on vortex effects but this particular trap uses a
vortex a bit more actively. The vortex trap uses something called the "vortex tube
phenomenon".
Following is a description of the vortex tube phenomenon from the Vortec web site at:
http://www.iscsales.com/vortec/spotcooling.html#vortex
"Vortex Tube Phenomenon

The vortex tube was discovered in 1930 by French physicist Georges
Ranque. Vortec was the first company to develop this phenomenon into
practical, effective cooling solutions for industrial appliacations. Here's
how it works.
Fluid that rotates about an axis -- like a tornado -- is called a vortex. A vortex tube
creates a vortex from compressed air and separates it into two air streams -- one hot
and one cold. Compressed air enters a cylindrical generator which is proportionately
larger than the hot (long) tube where it causes the air to rotate. Then, the rotating air is
forced down the inner walls of the hot tube at speeds reaching 1,000,000 rpm. At the
end of the hot tube, a small portion of this air exits through a needle valve as hot air
exhaust. The remaining air is forced back through the center of the incoming air
stream at a slower speed. The heat in the slower moving air is transferred to the faster
moving incoming air. This super-cooled air flows through the center of the generator
and exits through the cold air exhaust port."
Vortex tubes can also be used to separate oil from water. When oil and water are spun
together in a vortex tube the water, being heavier tends to follow the path of the hot
air in the example cited above and the oil being lighter follows the cold air path and
exits through the cold air exhaust port.
A magnetic ORMUS trap separates the portion of water which is superconducting

ORMUS material from that portion which is just plain water. In the example above,
the water would follow the hot air path and the ORMUS water would follow the cold
air path. This effect is induced by spinning the water in a tube which has magnetic
tape or other magnetic structures attached to it. Here is a vortex trap made of
transparent acrylic with the inner vortex clearly visible:
The materials used to make a non-transparent PVC version of this trap cost less
than $20. They are as follows:
Main Vortrap parts

18 inches of 1" PVC pipe (sched. 40)
1 - 1" Tee with the 1" PVC fittings in line and a half inch female pipe thread at
right angle.
1 - close PVC 1/2" pipe nipple
1 - 1" PVC to 1/2" pipe reducer

1 - 1" PVC pipe coupler
2 - nylon reducers which go from 1/2" male pipe thread to 1/4" female pipe
thread
1 - brass adaptor which goes from 1/4" male pipe thread to 1/8" compression
fitting
2" of 1" od. Plastic rod
3 long stainless steel set screws.
2 feet of 1/8" polyethylene tubing with brass insert for compression fitting
2 feet of self adhesive magnetic tape

6 - 3/4" discs of polypropylene oil spill absorbing fabric
Teflon pipe tape
PVC cement
1 - 1/2" female pipe to female hose connector
Cross Section View of Vortex Trap (Not Drawn to Scale
Main Vortrap parts in an exploded view

Tools required:
Hack saw
1 5/16" reamer, drill bit or hole saw
Flat file
1/2" pipe tap
Pipe deburring tool

Drill and tap for set screws
Pipe deburring tool

Procedure:
Ream or drill out the 1" tee so that the shoulder which is supposed to stop the
1" PVC pipe from going to far into the tee is removed (the 1 5/16" hole saw is
ideal for this task).
Using a hack saw blade, saw a 1" deep notch or slot down into the end of the
PVC pipe so that the notch or slot enters the wall of the pipe at a tangent to the
inside wall of the pipe. This notch is where the water will enter the pipe and it
is important that it directs the water into the pipe obliquely (see pipe end view
in cross-section picture above for detail).
Notch/Slot Detail
Smooth and trim this notch/slot.
Taper the inside of the other end of the 1" PVC pipe using a pipe deburring tool
similar to the one illustrated above.
View of pipe end showin

Insert the notched end of the 1" pipe into the tee far enough that the notch goes
completely past the 1/2" threaded hole in the side of the tee.
Make sure that everything fits and then solvent weld the pipe into the tee so
that the notch is centered in the 1/2" pipe threaded opening.
Run the pipe tap into the PVC reducer from each end.
Thread one of the nylon reducers into the PVC reducer from the inside using
some Teflon tape to insure a good seal.
Names of part
Place the polypropylene fabric disks into the outside threaded portion of the
PVC reducer and thread the other nylon reducer in till it compresses the fabric
against the inner nylon reducer. Be sure to use Teflon tape on the threads.
The polypropylene fabric is not essential, it just improves yield a bit. In the
vortrap (which is the only trap to use the fabric) the fabric serves two functions.
It slows down the exit of the "good" water and it shows a preference for the
oilier m-state water over ordinary water.
The ORMUS elements, when they are in solution in water, are in an oil form.
This oil form appears to be soluble in water till it reaches a certain
concentration where it will separate from the water on its own. Since the fabric
has a preference to absorb oil this allows it to pass oily m-state water through
more readily than the less oily waste water.
The filter also slows the exit flow down. This helps to prevent mixing of the mstate water with the fresh water coming in from the hose. It also helps to keep
the output from the "good" end to a rapid drip. Intuitive testing indicates that a
rapid drip is approximately the output speed that results in the highest
concentration of ORMUS in the output flow.
Careful design, using sophisticated fluid dynamics modelling algorithms, might
be able to eliminate the need for the filter but these sorts of design tools are
beyond my abilities and would result in a design which is beyond the

capabilities of the home experimenter.
Using teflon tape on the threads, thread the brass compression fitting adaptor
into the outside nylon reducer.
Inlet end parts ready for assembly
Solvent weld the completed PVC reducer assembly into the other end of the 1"
tee.
Thread the close pipe nipple into the tee using Teflon tape.
Drill and tap three equally space holes around the circumference of the 1"
coupler about 1/4" in from one end.
Solvent weld the other end of the 1" coupler onto the free end of the PVC pipe.
Get one end of the 2" long plastic rod turned down to a cone shape.
Insert the tapered end of the rod into the open end of the 1" coupler and fix it in
place by tightening the set screws through the coupler.
Cut two pieces of the magnetic tape so that they fit along the exposed length of
the PVC pipe. Attach them on opposite sides of the pipe.
Thread the pipe to hose adapter onto the pipe nipple in the tee using Teflon tape
to seal the threads.
Your finished vortex trap should look something like this.
You use this trap by hooking the hose adapter to a hose and adjusting the pressure
going in so that you get a good vortex of water coming out of the coupler end of the
trap and a slow drip of "water" out the end of the polyethylene tube. You can also
adjust the tapered rod in and out of the coupler in order to get things just right.
Experiments
Try different directions of vortex by changing the slot design.
Try a series of small holes instead of a slot.

Adjust the tapered rod (nose piece) in and out to change the amount of drip
from the polyethylene tubing.
Try different types and configurations of magnets.
Some experimenters have noticed that stronger additional magnets improve the
apparent quality of the "good" output water. One experimenter has placed 56 3800 gauss magnets around the long pipe on his trap! He was unable to find
fabric so he modified his trap to have a lower back pressure so that the "good"
output flow would still be a drip. Here are some of his comments on his
design:
I set the device to produce a steady drip on the outlet with an occasional
air bubble. The presence of the bubbles indicates cavitation and ariation
of the water entering the tube and subsequently a vortex. I did not make
a clear tube type. At this slow outlet rate it took over two hours to fill a
one-gallon jar. I calculated flow rate on the hose to be very close to 200
gallons per hour. This makes the potential concentrate in the jar roughly
400/1. This would make one glass of the water equivalent to about 400
non-concentrated glasses.
Here is a picture of this gentleman's first eight-magnet configuration:
And here is a picture of his 56 magnet configuration:
The magnets are Radio Shack "High Energy" magnets as advertised in their
catalogue (pn: RS 640-1877). They measue 3/8 inch deep, 7/8 inch wide, and 1 7/8
inches long and are made of strontium ferrite. The data sheet specifies they are 3800
gauss per sqare inch with an attraction force of about 8 pounds. This makes it
necessary to tape them very securely. If allowed to snap together they will break. He
purchased a quantity (50) from Radio Shack ONLINE for a 10% discount. Locally
they will usually have up to 10 on hand. They cost $.99 each but they seem to be out
of stock.
When this gentleman added the additional magnets he and his wife noticed that
the m-state water had become "milky". They sent this picture:
Here are their comments on this. First the comments from the lady who is
writing the Trap Water Diary:
The picture attached is our m-state water from the vortex trap that now
has 56 magnets on it, will have more pics later on tonight to send ya too.
The sight of the sun shinning thorugh the m-state water is totally
awesome and it really is milky looking.
And here are his comments:

My wife sent you a picture earlier of the colloidal M-State we have
recovered from our well water. I was very surprised to see the particles
suspended in the water under strong light. We produced this effect when
making colloidal silver a couple of years ago. We noticed this when

pouring some in the kitchen and the sun happened to be shining in.
Other unusual properties were also observed with the water from the 56 magnet
trap. These properties are described at:
http://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/tw/m-seeps.htm
The original inventor of the magnetic trap concept says that he has also gotten a
similar cloudy water by running the trap water from the first trap through a
second trap stage. While this results in a significant reduction of the overall
volume of product, the output of the second stage is much more potent than the
output of the first stage. It would seem that the key to this sort of concentration
in a single stage is the addition of lots of strong magnets.
Love. Honesty. Act as if. Guilt kills.

Blind faith. Hang tough. Step by step.
No free lunch. Keep it simple. One day

at a time. Responsible concern. No
gain without pain. Clean bed, clean
head. Compensation is valid.
Remember who you are. To be aware

is to be alive. Trust in your
environment. You get back what you
put in. Nothing is constant but
change. What goes around, comes

around. You are your brothers/sisters
keeper. You cant keep it without
giving it away. Do your thing and
everything will follow. You alone must

do it, but you cant do it alone. It is
better to understand than to be
understood. Be careful what you ask
foryou might just get it. If you think

you are looking good, you are looking
bad. If you think you are looking bad,
you are looking good. Remember
where you came from to know where

you are going.
I am here because there is no refuge,
finally from myself.

Until I confront myself in the eyes
and hearts of others, I am running.
Until I suffer them to know my secrets,
I have no safety from them.
Afraid to be known,
I can know neither myself nor any other,
I will be alone.
Where else but in our common ground,
can I find such a mirror?

Here, together, I can at last appear clearly to
myself,
not as a giant of my dreams, nor the dwarf of
my fears,
but as a person, part of the whole,

with my share in its purpose.
In this ground I can take root and grow,
not alone any more, as in death,
but alive to myself and to others.
by Richard BeauvaisHouse Trap/Levitation
Trap
This is a picture of the House Trap in operatio

The gray pressure tank on the left is for output storag
This is a labeled image of the components
Here is an image of the component

of the trap portion of the House T
p The inner pipe is 11" of 1/2" PVC
e outer pipe is a foot of 1" PVC And the fabric is oil absorbing fabric The oil absor
ing fabric is
The trap uses two PVC tubes. The inner tube is an 11 inch long section of half inch
schedule 40 PVC pipe. It has four 3/32" slot evenly distributed around the lower end.
These slots are angled so that they move the water in a counter clockwise direction.
The outer tube is 12 inches of one inch schedule 40 PVC pipe. The slots in the outer
tube are the same as the inner slots except that they are at the top. You must cut them
so that they also spin the water counterclockwise.
All of the slots on both tubes are tangental to the inside circumference of the pipe and
they are about 2 3/8" long on the outside tapering down to 1 1/2" on the inside.
Three slots are cut in the inner and outer pipes by raising a table saw blade into them.
The slots were cut with a 5 1/2" inch diameter thin kerf saw blade which was raised
into the tube. You cannot lower the tube into the blade as this will cause the tube to
kick back at you. It is best if the tube is clamped to the fence of the table saw and the
blade is raised into it.
All of the slots start about 3/4" from the end of the pipes.
The two tubes are assembled one inside the other using a couple of 3/4" male slip to
1/2 inch female thread bushings. The end away from the thread must be reamed out so
that the inner 1/2 inch pipe will fit inside. This bushing will not fit inside every brand
of one inch PVC pipe so you may have to check around to find one which fits.
Before these are assembled and solvent welded together a piece of oil absorbent fabric
must be rolled tightly and inserted into the inner pipe so that it extends from the top of
the inner pipe almost down to the slots at the bottom. This fabric should be a nice tight
fit as it must resist the full pressure of the water pushing against it.
The inlet water is directed into the four upper slots on the outer tube by a one inch
compression tee. This part might be a little difficult to find as it is not generally
carried by consumer hardware stores. You are more likely to find it at a plumbing
specialty shop.
The rest of the trap illustrated in the pictures is just there to get the water to and from
the trap portion. I made my trap with more valves and unions than necessary in order
to have something that I could easily modify while it was connected to my home
water system.
The metal tank in the picture is a small pressure tank which also provides a
magnetically shielded space for the ORMUS water that has been captured by the trap.
This pressure tank holds about a gallon of liquid and provides full pressure till it is
empty.
Eventually I want to have all my domestic water run through this trap and have a
spigot mounted on my sink for the ORMUS trap water.
I used four ceramic ring magnets on my trap. These magnets are four and a half inches
in diameter with a 1.75 inch inner hole. They are about half an inch thick. These
magnets are oriented so that their upper face attracts the south end of a compass
needle.
This should be enough to get folks started with this trap design.
Following is some information about the water from this trap:
The static pressure at my tap is about 90 psi. I cannot measure active pressure into the
trap without making extensive modifications to it but the active pressure going into
my three stage Tiny Trap is about 40-50 psi.
Between 10:20 AM and 11:20 AM on 5-15-01 I measured the volume of water use
and the volume of trapped water. I got 3.21 liters of water from the trap after running
it for one hour. This matches the amount I got in the same length of time a few days
ago. My water meter indicated that I used 75.95 cubic feet (2038.24 liters) of water in
this same hour. I did not use any other water in my house. This figures out to a ratio of
approximately 635 units of total source water to 1 unit of trap water.
I also calibrated my pH meter and measured the pH of the different water components.
These measurements were:
Source
pH
Tap water
7.16
Trap water
7.26
Waste water
7.22
Old trap water
7.66
I have also taken some pictures of the trap water:
On the left is the old trap water which I collected three days ago. In the center i
ordinary tap water. And on the right is the trap water which I just collected
Here is an image of a citrine stone for color comparison.
These are images of the first water that I made with this tra
Notice the cloudy look and green tint in the wate
This is a variation on the House Trap working in my bath tu
Note the swirling water trickle in the tube
ORMUS and Ozone

by Barry Carter
Several years ago (in the late 1980s) I was working with an inventor who had
developed a very efficient ozone generator. This generator was so efficient and
produced such good ozone that we were able to get it to clean up toxic mine drainage
water to where it would meet state drinking water standards. This was the first and
only ozone generator that the Bureau of Mines ever tested which could do this.
At my prompting my inventor friend decided to clean up a mine waste pool in our
area. His process worked quite well but he was getting some strange "snotty" looking
material in the treatment system. If this snotty material was left to dry in the dark, it
would become a powder which would "fly" away if you tried to touch it. If it was
dried in sunlight, it would disappear in a flash of light as soon as it became dry.
An accident involving the mine clean up process put my friend off of further
investigations into the snotty material.
In 1995 I heard a recorded lecture of David Hudson talking about his discovery of the
ORMUS materials. In this lecture he told about how these materials would fly away if
you put your hand near them and they would disappear in a flash of light if you left
them to dry in the sunlight. I put two and two together and realized that Hudson's
materials were probably the same as the materials that my friend had discovered.
Since 1995 we have been working with the ORMUS materials and ozone. We have
found that these materials have an affinity for oxygen and water. David Hudson
postulates that this affinity is due to a common resonance frequency between these
materials. David Hudson in his Portland workshop said:
"This little zero point frequency I showed you between the positron and the electron;
if you follow that right up the electromagnetic spectrum, it agrees with the molecular
frequency of hydrogen dioxide, or water. So there is an affinity for this material and
water. That's why it is normally taken in water. When you come to understand that
your body is, in fact, mainly water. That, literally, this material when you distill water
it distills with the water as the oridide, the iridide, the ruthidide, just like chlorine. And
so if you distill water thinking you are getting high purity water, it goes with the
water. And it literally changes the bond angles of the water. That one iridium atom
controls 56 waters of hydration around itself. And all the bond angles of all 56 waters
are altered when iridium is present. I haven't carefully studied the research work of
people working with water but I strongly suspect that their water isn't completely pure
and they are finding that the bond angles can be changed. There is something else
besides H2O in the water."
In other lectures Hudson makes a similar correlation with oxygen.
We are finding that the ORMUS elements are common in water. In fact, it looks like
they determine some of the familiar properties of water as we know it. Ultra-pure
water made from pure hydrogen burned in pure oxygen does not behave anything like
the water we know. The ORMUS elements effect the viscosity, boiling point, freezing
point and surface tension of water.
We believe that our ozone generator is producing significant amounts of O6 or

diozone. It looks like this diozone can be used as a "leash" to capture and manipulate
the ORMUS atoms. Here is a bit more background information on this concept.
The ORMUS elements differ in a fundamental way from their "ordinary" metallic
counterparts. In a sense they can be considered to be parallel to the metallic elements
on the periodic table. What differentiates this form of matter from "ordinary" matter is
that the ORMUS elements are in a high spin state. This means that the atoms are
spinning more rapidly than ordinary atoms. This high spin pulls the electron cloud in
toward the nucleus of the atom, sort of like an ice skater pulling her arms in to
increase the rate of her spin.
As these electrons get closer to the nucleus they pair up into what is called "Cooper
pairs" of electrons. (The Cooper pairing phenomenon is named after one of the
gentlemen who received a Nobel prize for its discovery.) These electrons, when they
are Cooper paired, are no longer available for ordinary shared electron bonding
between different elements. This means that they can no longer form ordinary
chemical compounds.
Methods have been developed to convert metal to ORMUS. In one way or another
these methods induce the high spin state and the Cooper pairing of electrons in the
individual atoms or diatoms. It is also possible to convert ORMUS to metal using
different methods.
Each of the elements, that can be transformed this way, keep their individual
elemental properties through the transition from metal to ORME and to metal again.
Some of these properties are common to both the metallic state and the ORMUS state.
For example, the m-state rhodium gives water a sticky feel. This is also true of the
metallic form--rhodium hydroxide. Also, rhodium seems to be useful as a catalyst in
the ORMUS state and in the metallic state.
Because these elements hold on to their electrons so tightly the ordinary

spectrographic methods of identifying them simply don't work. The only way we
currently know to identify them is to run a spectrographic analysis on a candidate
ORMUS sample, then convert it metal and run the spectrographic analysis again. If
the first spectrographic analysis shows no metal and the second shows metal then we
have identified an ORMUS element.
Though these elements don't form chemical compounds which are bound by electron
sharing, they do seem to be involved in chemical compounds in some special ways. I
believe that they should be suspected to be present in any chemical compound which
cannot be synthesized. Chlorophyll would be an example of this type of compound. I
understand that the "secret" ingredient in chlorophyll is the ORMUS form of copper.
Since these elements are not bonded by shared electrons, how might they be bonded?
I know of a couple types of bonds which might apply. I will discuss one of these types
of bonds, as it relates to ozone.
All of these concepts are discussed in greater depth in Hudson's lectures and in Gary's
article titled "Paranormal Observations of ORMEs Atomic Structure".
Superconductivity is a property of certain substances which are in a special quantum
state called a Bose-Einstein Condensate (BEC). A BEC is a large group of atoms
which behave as a single atom due to their being in a common state. In the case of the
ORMUS elements, their superconducting nature creates an energy field around each
atom. This energy field is called a Meissner field. A Meissner field resonance couples
individual ORME atoms to the point where many atoms can act like a single atom.
This resonance coupling between ORME atoms allows you to perform a sort of
shadow chemistry on them.
It appears that there are varying degrees of ORMEishness. An ORME diatom can
have all of its electrons paired up or it can have only a portion of its electrons paired
up. If you have an ORME diatom which is partially paired this will leave some
electrons available for conventional electron bonding with other elements. This
ORME diatom will then have one foot in the ORMUS world and one foot in the metal
world. You can use these partial ORMEs to manipulate the full ORMEs chemically.
Imagine that you want to collect all the loose male dogs in your town. It might be
difficult to chase them all down individually but there might be a simpler way to do
this. You could find a female dog in heat and use a known property of male dogs to
collect them. You would put the female dog on a leash and lead her through town and
pretty soon you will be leading all the loose male dogs around too. These male dogs
are not on your leash but they are attracted to the female dog and they will follow you
because you are leading her.
In a similar way we can do chemistry on the partial ORME and use the partial ORME
to lead the full ORMEs around. To do this you must coax the ORMUS atoms into a
chemical box.
We believe that the simple methods to chemically concentrate the ORMUS elements
from water that are described in the ORMUS document
athttp://www.subtleenergies.com/ormus/ormus/ormus2.htm use this principle. The
sodium atoms provided with the lye appear to form a three atom cluster or a triangle.
We believe that this triangular molecule provides a nice tight comfy inner space for
the ORME to hide in. Similar ring molecules made of carbon, oxygen and chlorine
have also been used to trap and chemically manipulate the ORMUS elements. The
oxygen ring molecule is the diozone molecule.
Though you cannot get an electron handle on the ORMUS elements, if you get them
in a diozone "box" you can use the electron handles provided by the diozone to put
them where you want them. Once you get them where you want them you must
remove the diozone ring in such a way as to leave the ORMUS atom intact and
functional, but that is another story.
Here are some of Gary's comments on the value of O6 for working with the ORMUS
materials:
Speaking now, in stricter use of the concepts 'monatom' and

'diatom', I may also offer you some further comments which
may be of interest to you. This is in regards to your question on

Brown's gas, and also relates to your work using ozone, as an
ORMEs charge pump.
Diatomic hydrogen is observed to be an ovoid, containing two
triangular "monatoms", each composed of 3 quarks (having 3
anu each). The triangular H atoms are not identical in the types
of their constituent quarks; each hydrogen in the diatom has the
same mass, but differs from the other as a consequence of their
quark components. When dissociated into monatoms, the two
separated hydrogen atoms are stable (ie do not spontaneously
dissociate further) but I would suggest that they would prefer to
be paired.
As monatoms, they loosely associate with free particles, forming

something like the atomic equivalent of the double-layer of
continuous-phase charge which forms around colloidal particles
to neutralize their remaining charge; it is a less defined layering
for a gaseous continuos phase than for a liquid as far as colloids
are concerned, and this (gas case) is a close analog of what

happens in the atomic state, where the atomic-level vacuum is
the continuous phase, and the myriad of loose and
undifferentiated subatomic particles are the matter that the layers
are (dynamically) formed from around the monatoms, as a loose
aggregate.
Diatomic oxygen is also an ovoid, containing two spiral shapes, looking very much
like helices of 5 turns each, with each being "wound" in the opposite direction.
Diatomic Oxygen Uni

Like the hydrogen, each monatom of the O2 diatom is dissimilar, being more positive
or negative, respectively, from its mate.
Two Monatomic Oxygen Atom

Oxygen is also stable as a monatom, but also prefers to be paired. It too can use loose
matter to neutralize its monatomic charge, but is entirely much less happy about the
situation.
Three such oxygen monatoms may unite to form ozone. These will either be +-+, or +-. The helices arrange with their axes parallel, and triangularly spaced as an
isosceles, when viewed end on.
The Two Different Ozone Varieties
Leadbeater noted that the positive variety of ozone (+-+) tends to rise, though no
tendency to move either up or down is noted for the negative variety. This is further
confirmed in that for observations performed at high altitudes, nearly all the ozone
found in the atmosphere is of the positive type. In any practical ozone generation
system, equal amounts of each type will be formed. While I have not tried it, it
appears that it should be possible to separate these according to species, once formed,
by placing ozone gas in a potential gradient (- on the upper electrode surface) that
draws the two types apart. Ozone that is thus separated by species is substantially
more stable and far less explosive in nature than ordinary heterogeneous ozone.
Oxygen is a very energetic and active element, and is capable of mediating several
type of energies, some of which are not as yet recognized by Science.
You have previously said:
>There is a large gap in our knowledge of the mechanism by
>which ozone moves the precious metals to their monoatomic

>state.
Jim's ozone technology generates a substantial amount of O6. I don't believe this
particular allotrope is recognized yet, or it just barely has been, and satisfying the
karmic cost of that has been the cause of the delay in discussing it for you.
This is a conjugate molecule, which might be termed di-ozone, and consists of six
oxygen helices, arranged at the corners a hexagonal cell, alternating +-+-+-. It is
reminiscent of the phalanx of rocket engines at the base of a Delta launch vehicle.
Di-Ozon
In oxides of the smaller members of the dumbbell atomic family, e.g. sodium, the
oxygen spiral actually situates so it winds round or encircles the main central body of
the dumbbell.
Sodium Hydroxide
From copper upwards in the dumbbells, and also the bars group, it cannot do this
(oxygen is too small in diameter for them to fit), and so contents itself with a side-byside arrangement, like a catamaran's outrigger. In the case of dumbbells, the oxygen
and dumbbell axes always align in parallel. For a heavy dumbbell atom like gold, it is
like a tiny woman, dancing with a huge fat man - there just isn't any good way to hold
on, and this is (in simple terms), how gold resists oxidation so well.
I previously stated
>Simple glancing thermal collisions knock the monatomic atom
>into a rapid spin, and that is how the high spin [super
>deformed] state leading to ORME transition is most commonly
>achieved.
Now, I may finally say some things about the particular ORMEs generating
mechanism you are concerned with.
ORMEs formation by ozonation is a mechanism that also occurs in Nature. A small

but significant amount of O6 is produced by each lightning strike, and also by highly
energetic photons in the upper troposphere, stratosphere and ionosphere. However,
because of their very high reactivity, the mean life of O6 molecules is usually quite
short, and so this mechanism generates far fewer ORMEs in Nature than geothermal
processes, yet it is still an important process.
When an O6 complex approaches a gold dumbbell, something quite interesting

happens. Oxygen is a highly vigorous atom taken singly, but the dipolar forces from
six synchronized oxygens, working as a team, is something exceptionally powerful,
and in a class by itself. The powerful forces of this molecule are what effects the
transition of gold, etc., into a superdeformed condition, and thence into the ORME
state.
In most cases, even when a single oxygen is paired with a dumbbell, the axial dipole
of the oxygen has a marked effect on the configuration of the dumbbell. For example,
a copper hydroxide molecule [Cu(OH)2] is flanked by 2 OH groups, each of which
consists of an oxygen spiral with a hydrogen triangle (composed of 3 quarks) floating
over each end; these two OH's stand on opposite sides of the copper main body.
Copper Hydroxide
The effect of the forces from the ends of the oxygens in this configuration is to repel
and displace the funnels on each end of the copper, into a shape like an oriental fan or
peacock tail, standing straight out like a Mohican haircut, on each end of the copper.
This funnel displacement takes place, even after the forces at the ends of the oxygens
have been mediated and toned down by the hydrogen groups.
The published illustration of Cu(OH)2 in Occult Chemistry doesn't do it justice.

Leadbeater and Besant early on gave up trying to show things in 3-D, and settled for
simple 2-D diagrams of the elements. The oxygens are not really in the plane of the
fan as depicted, even though described that way in the text, written by Jinarajadasa,
who was describing the illustration rather than the atomic structure. The plane
connecting the two oxygen cylinder axes is actually perpendicular to the copper's
funnel-fan plane.
When gold meets an O6 complex, something of like nature occurs to its funnels. As
they approach, the O6 and gold polarly align, and the gold dumbbell slips into the
center of the hexagonal O6 cell, which enlarges somewhat to accommodate the gold.
Gold Diatom Being Surrounded by Di-Ozone
Like flowers held in the blast of a jet engine exhaust, the funnels at each end of the
gold then stand straight out, along the main axis of this complex, under the powerful
combined action of the forces emanating from the ends of the synchronized oxygens.
The effect of this phenomena would be like what happens when an ice skater swings
her arms to go into a spin. At first the spin is slow till she brings her arms up above
her head, then the spin becomes more rapid along her long axis.
Gary continues:
The 6 oxygens each contain counter-rotating spirals. These all come into phase lock
when an O6 molecule forms, so that all 12 spirals are rotating in a synchronous
fashion in the molecule, speaking in regards to the rotational phase relationships of the
main charge carriers, which are uniformly located, one per turn, on the helix of each
spiral. This intra- molecular phase resonance is responsible for the great power of the
O6 group, which thus exceeds the sum of its parts in its oxidizing potential. As can be
seen, physical structure has a lot to do with atomic interaction and bonding
potentialities.
With the funnels of an O6-embraced gold dumbbell standing straight out, it at this
point has precisely the same superdeformed physical configuration as a dumbbell in
high spin [around the short axis]. This then, constitutes the basis of the mechanism
responsible for the formation of Cooper pairing, and genesis of the ORMEs state, that
occurs from exposing specific elements to high energy ozone. A very similar process
occurs when bars family elements are exposed to O6. For compounds such as gold
chloride, there are additional complexities, but in general terms, basically the same
type of phenomena occurs.
The highly dipolar nature of this complex is what lies behind, and is responsible for,
the magnetic properties of ozonated ORMEs (or ORMEs di-ozonides) and their salts.
There are a number of variations to the structure I've just described. For example, the
O6 group acquires hydrogen ions to form hydroxyl groups (similar to those of copper
hydroxide, described earlier) when in water.
M-Gold Chloride Made Using Ozon

The propensity for the an ozone-gold complex to deposit gold on carbon, and its
attraction to hydrocarbons such as grease and gasoline, is nothing more than an
expression of the disposition of these materials to oxidize, and the affinity of the O6 in
such an ORMEs complex for them. The appetite of the O6 is hardly satiated by the
gold dumbbell, and it is eager to find something else more reactive to bond to.
Even the tetroxides of platinum group elements like Ru and Os are relatively volatile,
and the di-ozonides are even more volatile. When di-ozone is combined with salt
complexes of these metals, the resultant compound is more stable, but is still anxious
to be elsewhere, as soon as it gets a chance. For instance, in aqueous solution,
volatility increases due to dissociation.
Following laws of partial pressure and osmotic diffusion, volatized ORMEs (fully
capable of tunneling), will ignore barriers to other molecules, and go to where the
closest, most attractive reactants are, following the path (as they see it) of least
resistance: straight through into the gas tank, the crankcase, and the grease spots on
the floor. The more combustive energy a substance has, the more the di-ozone portion
will be attracted to it.
When the oxygens have reached their destination, they may or may not abandon the
ORME they are attached to. There is a wide range of events that could happen at this
point. But as you have seen, in some cases metal will be deposited, and some ORMEs
will also remain, gelling the material. The absorption of "gold gas", or di-ozoneORMEs complex into silica gel, which has a natural affinity for ozone, is based on the
same principle; its affinity for di-ozone is greater still, in proportion to the increased
O6 reactivity.
When kept in solution in a beaker as di-ozone ORMEs complexes, when they leave
the liquid phase at the fluid interface, they do not go straight up into the atmosphere
above the liquid, but depart from the liquid along a vector which is dependent on their
departure velocity vector, and this vector is random through a 180 degree umbrella.
Because of the pseudo two dimensional interface between the container and the liquid,
this will naturally tend to be an area where significant migration activity occurs.
Because of this, the number of ORMEs exiting along or immediately near the edges of
the glass container will be greater than for any other part of the liquid surface. It is
also obvious that particles exiting in this region will tend to strike the inner wall of the
container, just at or above the liquid level, since a large number of their possible
departure vectors will point them at that region, for that exit zone, around the edge
where the liquid/container interface or meniscus is.
Some percentage of the ORMEs hitting this region of the inner container wall will
tunnel, rather than rebound. Should the tunneling ORMEs deozonate, as a result of
local conditions in the amorphous structure of the glass, then the resulting gold atom
will become stuck there, and its "appearance" will result in a localized stress riser, as a
dislocation in the glass structure. After enough of these stress dislocations have
accumulated in the same region, the glass will crack. In this case it cracks in a nice
clean ring.
Tunneling was occurring in other parts of Jim's glass beaker walls also, but this was
taking place at random locations, so the points of added stress were spread out and
more-or-less evenly distributed. Hence no cracking anywhere else. Glass containers
should not be used to store ORMEs solutions for prolonged periods.
There is 6 inches of string to bridge two points 10 inches apart. Either the string must
be made longer, the points brought closer, or some of both. The string is the karmic
cost of the knowledge, and the span is the knowledge gap to be bridged. The
prospects look good that this can be done.
I encourage you to continue to actively pursue a course that will remove those
obstacles. Continue the active exchange and brokerage of information. Continue
looking for a way to obtain FEs to support this purpose.
Anything you can do to augment the flow of additional knowledge into the equation
from sources such as yourself, Jim, or your other contacts and associates, will allow,
and lead to, expanded scope of discussions, and interpretive explanations to promote
your understanding. Keep up your efforts, Barry. The karma of this thing is beginning
to melt like the wicked witch after Dorothy dowsed her.
Gary
In another post Gary wrote:
Dissolution in acids may occur with partial ORMEs; a sample may be *nothing but*
partial ORMEs and still completely dissolve in acid. Whether partials will dissolve in
acids depends on the particular element involved, the degree of partiality, and the
energy flowing through the paired valence circuits. You and Hudson presently lack
means of quantitatively determining either of these last two parameters. You can use
acid to eliminate partial content from your samples. But there are other
considerations. Acids may also react with the oxygens in ORMEs-di-ozonides, with
deleterious consequences, as explained in a moment.
You must be careful to properly distinguish the differences between sample types.
There are several very distinct materials, which must be differentiated between if you
wish to avoid problems.
Sample
Approx. Color
1 ORMEs
[white]
2 Partial ORMEs
[from gray to white]
3 Partial ORME compounds (salts)
[wide variations]
4 ORME di-ozonides
[*white]
5 Partial ORME di-ozonides
[*varies typ.gray-white]
6 Partial ORME di-ozonide compounds
[widevariations]
* Presumed colors
Copper is an exception, its partial colorations also reflecting the natural copper-red, in
lesser degrees of partiality (2 & 5). The material Jim is collecting in his traps is 1, 2,
and 3. The other materials, made by Jim from metals, or from ozonating trap material
or chemical compounds are 4, 5, and 6.
As you can see from the above table, the fact that Hudson remains unconvinced of the
existence of partial ORMEs, as well as lacking familiarity with di-ozonides, is not
particularly important from a color standpoint (criteria #1). But the presence of
oxygen in the complex can alter the expected results, depending on the chemical
processes (etc.) samples are subjected to. The reasons for this may perhaps help guide
Jim toward fruitful directions of experimentation.
There are essentially two ways that an ORME-di-ozonide can lose its oxygens, to
become a "normal" (ie de-ozonated) ORME. The O6 can come off, just as it got on,
by slipping off one end of the dumbbell or bars element. It is like a girl slipping a
continuous circular bracelet off her wrist. But doing this exposes the funnels or bars
on the exiture end of the ORME to powerful disrupting forces from the O6 molecule
as it departs, and often causes Cooper pairs to be broken during the separation
process. This is its favored way of coming off in many chemical processes, in the
absence of other factors.
The other means of losing the oxygens is for the O6 complex to open up, like a hinged
bracelet, so they come off without passing over the end of the ORME within. The O6
breaks apart and comes off in pieces, in either O3 or O2 molecules. This is much less
likely to disrupt any Cooper pairing that is present; the captive ORME will then most
likely still continue to be an ORME, after it is freed from the oxygens that were
girdling it.
In many of the operations Jim has used to remove the oxygens, "pinning" the ORME,
as you are terming it, the transformation into a metallic or partially metallic state (low
order partial ORME) is actually the result of the oxygens blowing apart the Cooper
pairing as they slide off, going after carbon for example, rather than chemical
destabilization of the ORME's paired valencing. Once one end of a gold ORME's
Cooper pairing is ruptured in this way, energy transients inside the atom often blow
apart those funnel pairings on the other end as well, as the remaining valence circuits
attempt to (often impossibly) assume a greater amount, or in some cases to maintain
the entirety, of the atom's Meisner flux by themselves. It appears that stages of
Hudson's ORMEs analysis also causes this result.
Jim has noted that ozonated ORMEs seem to represent a metastable state, and this is
why. Some processes remove the oxygen in a way that breaks the Cooper pairing,
ending in a metal. Others remove the oxygen, in a manner so as to typically leave the
ORME intact, which then, of course, shows itself very inert and recalcitrant to any
further chemical manipulations, typical of ORMEs David Hudson has been working
with.
There are some other factors which are important, and may be of help. You have
learned that, because the di-ozone complex is highly dipolar, (as you have repeatedly
observed first-hand with your various magnet experiments), it is susceptible to
alignment and orientation by an external field. By aligning the O6/ORMEs complex
with a polarizing field perpendicular to an electric field, the oxygens may be broken
off and removed, laterally. I suggest approaching this by applying the electric field in
an aqueous electrolytic cell, with a perpendicular magnetic field.
Fully paired ORMEs do not react chemically, except as in the case of O6 and some
other unusual constructs. You may reasonably conclude that the ORMEs involved in
Hudson's chemistries are partials.
Anyone duplicating Hudson's procedures may wish to do metrics to quantify, or keep
track of, chlorine-in and chlorine-out (for example), to see how much is actually being
bound to the ORMEs you are working with. This is an indirect means of monitoring
the partialities present. Comparing the molar quantities of chlorine binding to the
ORMEs, with the molar quantity of the gold present, will give you an idea of the
number of partial valences engaging in binding reaction. You may release and
measure the chlorine from ORMEs chloride, and deduce from that how many active
partial ORME valences are present. That will only involve the partials engaging in
binding, and would not tell anything about the amount of non-reacting higher order
partials or 100% ORMEs which may also be present. But measuring released
reactants is valuable, if the ORMEs were made from metal in the first place, so the
molar amount of gold, etc., present is known a priori. Things may then be
meaningfully deduced as to the relative number of non-reactive valences.
Wrapping an O6 around an ORME charges it just fine, in just about the twinkling of
an eye. I might go so far as to say it is the Ne Plus Ultra method for ORMEs
formation; at least it is the key first step in the process. It is getting the O6 off again
without trashing everything that I have been gradually and gently leading your
attentions towards.
Charging an ORMEs system is different than charging ORME atoms individually, but
there are some similarities and carry over, when individually charged atoms are
combined into contiguity.
__________________________________
On oxygen forms you wrote:

>The only thing that I can find that you previously wrote regarding
>the stability of O6 is:
>>However, because of their very high reactivity, the mean life
>>of O6 molecules is usually quite short, and so this mechanism
>>generates far fewer ORMEs in Nature than geothermal processes,
>>yet is still an important process.
>...Is O6 a more likely or more stable structure than O5 or O7?
>and Why might FE ozone be more persistent than ozone produced by

>other methods?
Barry, you found part of what I was referring to, but I also discussed the phase lock
between the atoms at some length, which might well have provided an indication to
you that the molecule is intrinsically stable (I am distinguishing between stability, and
reactivity, as two separate properties, the first relating to the tendency of a molecule to
decompose, apart from reacting with other things).
You should also be aware that there is more than one form of O6. The O6 I have been
discussing with you, with its unique ring shape, is the only one which has any
usefulness relative to ORMEs. Others also exist. Though these others are more
common, they are far less interesting than the O6 ring. But the different forms all have
the same mass and charge, though certainly not the same thermal stability or
reactivity. So you must be discriminating in deciding which kind you have, by the way
you measure them.
Because the O6 ring shares the same mass and charge as the transient O6 ozones,
because of its relative rareness (except in the FE), because of its short average life,
and because of its ability to "blend in" with its O3 cousins (which always accompany
it in large numbers), these factors have conspired to prevent scientists from noticing it,
and hence from doing any work to identify it, up until very recently.
Left to itself, (ring) O6 is very stable; ie, it doesn't show the same tendency to
spontaneously decompose, as O3 eventually does. But it makes up for it by reacting
with all sorts of things, and doing so usually causes it to break up (most ORMEsforming metals being notable exceptions, in which cases it remains intact).
O5, O7, etc., are variations of O3 chains (see below), involving some O2s tacked on,
and are rather transient forms.
In water, O6 will react vigorously with most types of impurity materials present in the
water, but not much with the water itself. You may reflect, that Jim's initial gold
recovery attempt, starting him on his present path of destiny, would have been an
abject failure, if O6 reacted with water to an appreciable degree.
Once the impurities have been oxidized, the remaining O6 may persist for quite a
while, depending on how much remains at that point, but will eventually diffuse out of
the water into the atmosphere, where it soon finds something to oxidize. The rate of
diffusion depends on the temperature of the water. Also remember, a little O6 goes a
long way -quite a bit farther than O3- for a water taste-test.
___________________________________
>From a conversation with Jim you transcribed, speculating
on the fundamental cause underlying the high activity of
the FE's output gas:
>Barry- Ok, well what's the difference between that ozone
>and other ozone?
>
>Jim- It is eager to react. It's unstable. It's been
>pumped up to the point. . . It's a balloon that's over
>inflated and it wants to pop.
>
>Barry- Ok, is it because you've got O4,O5 and O6 or is
>it because . . .?
>
>Jim- No. That's a different issue. This is because

>it's just ozone. This is something we can measure today
>and demonstrate today vs the other which is difficult at
>best.
>
>Barry- Ok, I understand how you get it energized, but
>what's different about the molecule that's energized?
>
>Jim- Ah, don't know.
Despite Jim's view that this is due to some alteration of O3, the high activity is due
primarily to the presence of O6, and to a much smaller degree to some other oxygen
forms which, though less active than O6, are still a bit more active than O3. It is not
because of a change in common O3's energy. Refer to an earlier email, for an
explanation of the reasons why O6 has eluded recognition.
The uses of the O6 ring are great and manifold. It is a very powerful oxidizer. Its
potential uses range all the way from creating and super-activating ORMEs, to
recovering gold from sea water, to powering giant booster rockets. It will supplant and
replace ozone in many existing applications, due to its superior oxidizer properties.
Many new things will be discovered that were impossible before shall become known.
It will save and prolong countless lives, help clean up the planet, avert great suffering,
and make the future a brighter vision.
So much from it... and such a tiny little thing it is, too, all bright, pure, and sparkling.
We believe that there are many useful interactions between oxygen and the ORMUS
elements in the body. We suspect that hemoglobin is partially composed of ORMUS
rhodium and that an increased availability of ORMUS rhodium in the body will
facilitate oxygen transport. I have personally noticed this in that when I am
supplementing ORMUS rhodium in my diet, I have significantly greater ability to

exercise without becoming winded.
Previously in this article I quoted Gary as proposing that the oxygen vortex, when
arrayed in a hexagram with their axes all pointed in the same direction, would "blow"
the valence funnel arms of the gold diatom away from the short axis of the diatom.
This would promote the pairing of these valence funnel arms.
I imagine this would look like a fat ballet dancer who starts spinning with arms out
but encounters a blast of air from below which blows his arms up above his head
where he can easily clasp his hands. The difference, in this case, is that the ballet
dancer would have twelve arms above his head and twelve arms below his feet. In
the Paranormal Observations article Gary described this thus:
"Each element in the dumbbell shaped group has a total of 24 valence funnels;
there are 12 at each end of the atom, representing 6 sets of half valences. The 12
funnels are arranged a bit like blades of a ceiling fan, which rotate on the major
elliptical axis of the central body, hence the dumbbell look. The ends of the
valence funnels are slightly staggered, alternating up and down slightly as you
go around the atom."
An image of a dumbbell group atom can be seen below:
The oxygen atoms in the O6 (or possibly O12) hexagon array around the gold diatom
would be in spin coherence as I described in my 1999 article titled Patterns of Motion.
This array of oxygen atoms might look something like one or more of the arrays
pictured below:
Oxygen
Oxygen 12
Di-Ozone
Apparently, anti-gravity like effects have recently been measured emitting above and
below the spin axis of Bose-Einstein condensates in spin coherence. See:
http://popularmechanics.com/science/research/1999/10/taming_gravity/
This anti-gravity like force was discovered by Dr. Ning Li who calls it "AC Gravity".
I suspect it may also be related to the spin fields (scalar waves) that Alexandr
Shpilman has as

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House Trap/Levitation Trap

ASSEMBLY OF THE TINY TRAP

House Trap/Levitation Trap

A. Vortex chamber sub-assembly

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

1 " slip coupling

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

View of ridge in center of coupling

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Grinding off ridge

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Coupling with ridge ground off

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

1 " Slip to " threaded bushing

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Vortex chamber parts

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Ready to put solvent on fitting

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Assembled vortex chamber

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Filing corners of fitting

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Magnet around trap body

House Trap/Levitation Trap

2. Mount the vortex chamber assembly in a vice or fixture to hold it in a vertical

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Drilling input hole

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Drilling input hole (from above)

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Input hole showing countersink for sweeper nozzle

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Ready to cut input coupling

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Hole saw in drill

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Looking straight down on threaded input coupler

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Ready to cut threaded input coupler

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Half way through the threaded input coupler

House Trap/Levitation Trap

House Trap/Levitation Trap

Rough inlet port after hole sawing