Weidelsinstructi 01 Weid

TT 52Q
.W35
1914
Copy
WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.
MAIN 2355
SAPO
ELIXIR
A Safe Chemical Cleaner
and 25c Bottles- Half Gallon 75c,
Eradicates car
and Gallon Cans $1.25.
grease, paint and oil stains from clothing,
lOc, 15c
cleans gloves, furs, etc.

Sold by Druggists and Department Stores
everywhere. Manufactured only by
POLITURA CHEMICAL CO.

3555 Olive Street
ST. LOUIS
JOHN
H.
SMITHERS,
Mfg. Chemist.
Lindell 71
Lindell 2265
^
SOLD BY
Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co
3838 OLIVE STREET

MO.
ST. LOUIS,
PRICE, $1.50
Where garments are purchased ready

made,
will olttimes save its
it
cost in the alteration of a

single skirt.
HIS
levice
is something that every

Tiresome fitUngs and rcfif.ings
home.
Parisian Gauge.
perfectly so that
floor
at
all
points.
so important
Six minutes
its
length
is
There
10
as seeing that
ti
place than in another, and al
man
bhould have In her
avoided by usmg the
all that
is
necessary to hang your
uniform and the

feature in
distance from the

the
making
of
a skirt
bottom
does not hang lower in one

same time no'hing more discourag
number of fittings
often necessary to secure sahsfactory
What a delightful relief and pi.
experience to accomphsh
ing than the

results.
in
one short
result 'hat heretofore ofttimes has
fitlii
been impossible
in three or four fittings of
from 20 minutes
to
three-quarters of an hour each
It
Will
Last
The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-mch arm, curved in
conformity with the natural drop of the smrt over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns
around. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod lo any height desired. When one hip is larger
than the other, as is singularly true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can
possibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor
carpet at all points, front, sides and back.
There
is
no chalk
used with the Parisian Gauge.
up and
the skirt
must bt an equal distance from the
The employment
of chalk or crayon has always been

( 1 ) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is oftenChalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. <3) Howit is with extreme rarity that you do not have to go over your skirts three
highly objectionable for several excellent reasons:
times extremely difficult of removal.
(2)
ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that
or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results.
Life
invariably settle to one
Time
skirt
will the dress
Patented
July 17,
1906.
will find that in
higher than you intended.
What
The reason
is
obvious:
A woman
being
fitted will
side, so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and Just as sure as she does, just so sure
goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the
bottom you
assuming an erect
This technique
toprevent a
woman
we have
position, the skirt being

just descrilxd
is
drawn up
will carry your
crayon
mark
very faulty and should never be employed.
you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of
the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which eflfectually prevents the bottom of the skirt from
descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position is instantly
is
settling, as
ufested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip
and the hem you are turning (bottom
remaining FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance tsetween
the two points, the hip
position, therefore,
ensable for
may
Her
Gauge is
and the arm, with the resulting bagging).

be corrected instantly.
The
Parisian
home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments

arm may be raised to any height from the floor.
autifully hung with the Gauge, as the curved
This Gauge
It is
tip
is
handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing

and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will not
10 inches high, graduated in V2
over while in use.
Copyrighted by Weidel Ladies'

Tailoring
College
Co.,
1914.
WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.
WEIDEL'S
INSTRUCTION BOOK
FOR
Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves
A COMPLETE TREATISE
ON
Drafting
Ladies^
and Children's Garments
Square and
By
J.
Curves Combined
A.
WEIDEL.
ST. LOUIS, MO.

1914
by the
WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.
^kt^
The drafts herein
contained are mostly foundation
we thought it best not to give many fancy

As the styles are continually changing and we
drafts, as
drafts.
believe
good
it
best for the beginner to learn to draft a
FOUNDATION
and then make such changes as
often as the style demands.
)CU4(I6781
JUL 19 1915
TABLE OF CONTENTS (Second

Taking- Measures by the
Impoltaiit to all
How
,^
f^
(V
5<r-.
to
make
Rules
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
51.
r,:!.
53.
1^
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
who use
Sweep
54.
55.
56.
57.
47
Over-Erect Form
IS
for Stooping Round-Shouldered
Form
20
for
Shirt
Pattern
22
Japanese Kimono with Straight Front

and Back
Kimono Waist with Set-in Sleeve
Middy Blouse
Four-Piece Princess Slip
One-Piece Coat
Semi-Fitting
raft No.
611.
armhole
Eaton .Jacket with dart on shoul
Draft No.
2.
Coat,
with
24
26
tc
30
32
tc
36
Seams
5!).
raft No.
of
WKIDEL SYSTEM
Changes
Changes
Ladies'
Edition),
11 to
Instructions for drafting Shirt Waist... 16
1.
50.
^--5
WEIDEJ. aYSTKM
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
61.
Kimono Coat
62.
Draft
Draft
Draft
Draft
No.
64.
No.
65.
No.
66.
Peg-Top Skirt with 2 draperies

Two and Three-Piece Skirt
Four and Five-Gore Skirt
Six and Seven-Gore Skirt
Plain Drawer Pattern
No.
67.
Mar
Draft No.
68.
Sleeve for One-Piece Coat
63.
5h
Sle
Shirt Sleeve
Draft No.
3.
Draft No.
4.
Draft No.
.").
A
Draft No.
Draft No.
6.
7.
WORD ABOUT OUR COLLEGE
97
gemi-Fitting or Half-Fitting Coat. .98 to 101

Double-Breasted Box Coat with Shawl
.
Collar
102
to
AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE

CHANGES FOR STOOPING AND OVERERECT FORMS
106 to
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
104
105
109
Single-Breasted Prince Chap Coat .. 106 to 109

Waist for Small Child
110
Child's Sleeve
Tight-fltting Sleeve
Bishop Sleeve Small Top

Bell or Wing Sleeve with Small Toi
Shirtwaist Sleeve
Mutton
Sle
52-53
54-55
56-57
58-59
60-61
.62-63
64-65
64-65
Dra"ft No. 69.
Ladies'
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
70.
One-Piece Sleeve, with Dart below Elbow. 66-67

Shirtwaist Sleeve with Small Top
66-67
Draft No.
Draft No.
73.
Draft No.
Draft No.
Draft No.
75.
Draft No.
7S.
71.
72.
74.
76.
77.
68-69
Fancy Flat Sailor Collar
Turndown Collar for Short-Neck Person. 68-69
70-71
High Rolling Collar
Crush Collar
Standing Collar
Neck Band
TABLE OF CONTENTS (First Edition).

Tight Waist or Princess
7\ to S2
Special Measure Sheet
83
Tight Waist with Bias Dart and
Straight Front
84 to 87
Tight Waist with 2 underarm pieces
for large forms
88 to 92
Tight-fitting Coat with Curved Front. .92 to 96
4S to 51
70-71
70-71
70-71
WIOIDKI/S INSTRUCTION J300K.
10
J. A.
WEIDEL
Author and Inventor

in presenting this, his second edition, has the points numbered instead of
which enables one to readily find any certain point desired in the instructions given.
The Author
lettered,
has advantages over the lettered plan, and we believe will meet Avith apwho prefer the numbered plan. The student will readily see advantages and the simplicity by which one can find any given point. In the second edition many
new points are brought out that will enable the student to produce any of the prevailing
styles, no matter how often they may change, as the lines given in both the First and Second
This
i)lan
proval, especially by those
ciition are suited for the
By giving the
may change.
styles
SLENDER FORM AS WELL AS THE STOUT FIGURE.
TWO
editions in one book, the cutter can find the various lines used as
For the cutter who prefers a short-measure system of producing a pattern, either for
Custom Tailoring or READY-TO-WEAR TRADE, we advise using WEIDEL 'S SELF-
BALANCING AND SELF-GRADING METHOD of DRAFTING, which is the result of many

years
'
experimenting by the Author.
This method adapts
itself to the different variations of
(See Draft No. 78).

large or small, or what their attitude may be.
trial will convince the advanced student, as well as the beginner, that it will produce a
or STOOPING FORMS.
well-balanced pattern either for the ERECT,
the form, no matter
how
NORMAL
The student
many new
ideas in
tliis edition, that do not require a set of

but a few simple measures will produce any size pattern desired. THE
used for producing these patterns, does not require any FREE-HAND
DRAWING, the square does the FIGURING, and with the lettered and numbered curves on
the square one can make any desired curve with a LEAD PENCIL.
wall find
GRADED SCALES,
AVEIDEL SYSTEM
WEIDEL 'S COMBINED TAILOR' SQUARE AND CURVES is the invention of the
Author, and is the result of many years' experience in using garment drafting devices, and all
who study the contents of this book and system used for producing same, will derive much
benefit therefrom.
J. A. WEIDEL, The Author.
11
LONG-SIDE-HE ASURE
Taking Measures by Weidel's System.

To the bcjiiiiiK'r, as well as the experienced,
we achase all measures to be taken vdih much
care, being careful not to draw tape line too
tight, or leave it too loose.
Measures should
be taken over a soft waist, not a starched or

stiff one.
See that the person is properly corseted.
First place a narrow strap with buckle

around waist and draw strap to tightness the
band is to be. See that it follows natural waistline.
Begin by taking all the round measures

standing back of person.
Neck
first,
Taken around the neck-band.

Bust Over the fullest part of bust in front,
and up high in back over fullest part of shoulder blades, not too tight or loose.
Waist Just above the strap at waist-line.

Hip Around the hip about 5 inches below the
strap in front, and 6 inches at side and back,
keeping on a level with floor.
Long-Side From waist-line or bottom of strap
on left side on a line with front of armhole,
around to back of neck, then down to waistline on right side to bottom of strap.
(In applying this measure, use only half of the
measure on draft).
Over-Shoulder, Right Side From waist-line in
back, over the shoulder, touching a point
about 2 inches from end of shoulder, then
down to waist line in front. (Always draft
by the highest side).
Over-Shoulder, Left Side Taken in same manner as right side, from waist-line in back to
waist-line in front. (Do not take these measures over the fullest part of bust).
12
DEPTH OF ARMHOI.E.
LONG-BACK-MEASURE
Long-Back From waist-line about 3 inches

from center back on left side up side of neck,
ai'ound front of neck, then down right side to
waist-line in back.
Height of Bust From front of neck to fullest
part of bust.
Length of Front From front of neck to bottom of strap or waist-line.
Width of Chest From armhole to armhole,
about 4 inches down from neck.
Under-Arm Measure From pit or level of
armhole down to bottom of strap at waistline be careful and not get it too long.
Depth of Armhole Place 60-inch end of tape
measure mider left arm, as high up as it will
go, then bring it straight across back and
under right arm, keeping tape measure on
level with bottom of armholes, and while in
this position measure from collar-bone down
to top of tape line.
Length of Back From collar bone at l)ack of

neck to bottom of strap at waist line.
Width of Back From armhole to armhole,
across back about half way between the top
of shoulder and bottom of armhole. Be careful not to get this measure too narrow. You
cannot depenrl on the waist the person is
wearing. If incfci-icd, the width of back can
be taken as lollows: Place a pencil under
each arm and measure from one to the other;
in applying it on draft use this measure on
bust line 5, but do not deduct the inch.
Length of Shoulder From collar-bone at back
down to point of shoulder, being caic

ful not to take this measure past the shoulder
of neck
point.
Armhole
Around
armhole about
point of shoulder.
inch
frdiii
13
BUST
Around Elbow
.ly
Around olbow with arm slight Over fullest part of

From
of armhole to
bent to give ease.
Around the Hand

thumb and all.
Inseam of Sleeve
liand,
pit
wrist joint, with arm hanging straight down.

Length of Skirt Front, Right Side, Back, Left
Side-Skirt measures are all taken from bottom of strap to floor. Be sure to measure
over fullest part of hip at side.
Notes.
Notice
ing,
if
figure is round-shouldered or stoop

in front below
large shoulder-blades, large hips
normal or over-erect, large
waist-line,
toward back or perhaps very flat in back below

waist line. This latter case would indicate a
largeness in front below waist-line.
Remember, you must put the goods where
the tigure requires
it.
Draft to the measures, and not to the dress

over which the measures are taken. Remember
that the Long Side and Over-Shoulder measures must not be taken over the fullest part of
bust.
In takinj measures alwavs

form.
make
a note of
The Long-Side and Long-Back measures are

used to determine the attitude.
14
OUR NEW ONE
PIECE TAILOR'S
Important to All Who Use Weidel's

Square and Curves.
In using' tliis system, first familiarize yourself with the letters and numbers used in making the different curves. Then notice the arrangement of the divisions on the division, or
arrow side of square, which are used to quickly
divide any given number used in drafting ail
kinds of garments thus doing away with figuring usually required in systems or drafting
machines.
;
SQUARE AND CURVES COMBINED
dicate the different curves re((uired in garment

drafting.
Numbers on Ijottom or arrow side indicate
the opposite curves. These curves do away with
frcr-hand drawing required by most systems

difficult to the beginner.
Ercrif curve is m.adf- ivith a lead pencil.
Notice Use square with hand or arrow
])ointing as indicated. The hand is on the face
side, and tlic ai-row on the bottom or division
and very
sidr, of s(|u;n-c.
Wlicii divisions ai-e refcnvd to in draft, find

wanted in the division nicntioiicd, thus: If
a draft reads 'I'l in 4ths, dy waist iiicasui-c in
4ths, find 22 in the division of 4ths on ri/ilifJtand end of square. Thus you can readily find
number in whatever division you desire without
the difficult figuring usuallv re(iuired.
_
On
the hand or face side of square the inches

are arranged so you measure from either end
without turning the square around. The center
row (see large figures) begin at left-hand end
of square. The small figures at bottom row are
half-inches. Then along the right-hand end you
will find the division in fourths.
Line 1 on square is the first line near hand

running in the direction of long arm of square.
(See small hole near hand).
Line 2 croses 2 small holes on left-hand end
of square.
Line .3 is square up from line 2, near lower

front armhole curve.
The letters on face or hand side of square in-
size
How to Make a Sweep.

Sweeps are used more or less in all drafting.
First sew a loop IV.' inches long in the 60-inch
end of tape measure.
Now
right
sweep
place pencil jDoint in loop and hold with

at point from which you wish the
to begin; also hold tape in left hand at
hand
pivoting point; now make sweep forward or

back as per instructions.
15
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Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading
Copyright
May
1,
1914,
by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co
73
Method
WEIUEL'SINSTIUTCTIOK
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Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading
Copyright
May
1.
1914,
by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.
75
Method
76
72 Prom 71 is I14 inclics. P ciu-ve at .'Ui,

curve through 72 to V on sciuni-c.
73 From 72 is I14 inches.
74 From 73 is 2 inches, or width desired.
J curve at 74, cui've to 66.
75 Left-hand corner of square at 73, long
arm touching 69, square up and make 75, one
and one-lialf inches, or width desired.
24 curve at 75, curve to 7(1.
HE
Notice Proportion Front length sliould l)e

about li/. inches more than back length to waist
line.
For every inch the front is shorter than

back length, raise dot 22 one-fourth of the
amount. Example If back is 17 and front 14,
raise 22 one-foufth of the amount, which is
inch. For every inch the front is longer than
the proportion front, lower dot 22 one-fourth
the amount.
drafts herein contained are mostly foun-
dation drafts, as
many fancy
we thought it best not to give

As the stjdes are continually
drafts.
changing and
Ave lielieve it best foi* the
beginner
FOUNDATION
and then
demands.
to learn to draft a
good
make such changes
as often as the style
77
PREFACE
In placing this invention before tlie pul)lic we desire to say for tlie benefit of the inexperienced as well as the experienced, the drafts and diagrams given herein are based on
actual measure and proportion combined.
We
have endeavored wherever possible to use actual measure and apply same on
The lines and curves are placed according to style; and best judgment of the inventor, and should anyone prefer to place dilferent lines from those given, this
can be done according to the individual taste and not affect the fitting points as lon^ as the
location of the frame work and measurements are not changed.
draft as taken on person.
It is
draft
this
not our intention to give
many fancy
the basis of all styles of garments, and
is
reason
we deem
it
tlat foundation
fancy patterns are taken from them. For
drafts in this edition, as the

all
produce a PERFECT-FITTINGattempting to take up the more advanced studii>s.
ad\'isable for the student to learn to
FOUNDATION before
The drafts are the results of many years' experience with \'arious actual measure systems, and have been thoroughly tested on forms of all sizes and shapes. The
having done his own fitting had the advantage of seeing the results of his own jjatterns, thus gain-
AUTHOR
ing
tile
aetnal experience every successful cutter so
By
much
desires.
constantly working with different systems and drafting patterns of
must gain the knowledge we need and sinii)lify our work

all who wish to succeed in any profession or trade.
to save time,
should be every ambitious person's desire to overcome

in every line of work, and especially so in designing
styles are constantly changing.
It
to
come up
all
kinds
we
which means nuich to
difficulties which,
are bound
women 's garments,
as
the
To be a successful cutter or designer you MUST STUDY and improve not only in your
own discoveries, but learn all you can from every publication that will advance your interest.
The wide-awake cutter will readily grasp any good points that will further his interest; remember,
Ave often learn
Some prefer
person who desires
from our students.
to the longest route to obtain the
same
results, but to the
more progressive
advance with the times, we believe this invention will be of interest,

as the SQUARE AND CURVES being combined in one piece simplifies matters and produces
more graceful curves in much less time than c:in be obtained in the usual frfM> hand methods,
as no gui(h' lines are required, as is customary in the old way.
By
to
this invention the
person of average intelligence can learn to draft and design in

and the lines are as perfect as the most experienced could
half the time usually required
produce.
By carefully studying each and every draft as given the ambitious cutter who is interested in the advancement of the science of garment cutting, will l)e more than rewarded with
the results obtained.
From
ter
how
the foundation di-afts herein given you can
often the styles
We
hope
all
may
change, as the
who study
its
pages
flat
draft
will find
is
i)r(
luc<
the
food for
rapidly improve with more experience.

J.
Copyrighted by Weidel & Webster
Tailoring College, January, 1910
A.
WEIDEL, The
Authoi
WEIDEL'S JNSTKUOTION BOOK.
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FROM ANY FASHION BOOKS
PATTERNS
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SPECIAL DISCOUNT
TO DRESSMAKERS
SPECIAL MEASURE SHEET

To
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NECK
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A Word About Our

Pupils desiring to do their
rates.
We
own sewing
or
make garments
College
for others can do so at the following
teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring.
instructions,
97
Each
pupil receives individual
no classes formed.
You can begin
at
except Saturday 9 to
any time.
College open the entire year.
Instructions daily from 9 to 5
p.
m.,
4.
OUR TERMS
TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE
FULL COURSE,
Not
either system and 45 days les-
sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitting,
Basting,
Pressing,
Stitching,
all
is
always payable
No
in
system and Instruction Book,
DRESS MAKERS' COURSE,
kinds of ladies' and children's gar-
12 drafting les-
sons system and Instruction book
ments, $25.00.
TUITION
than ten days sold to any pupil.
45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00
Boning,
Draping and Finishing; with system for drafting
less
FULL COURSE
System and large Instruction book

10 days' lessons without system
advance.
extra charge for patterns
it
work
is
$15.00
10.00
5.00
finished in school
Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.

ST. LOUIS.
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.
105
AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE

We
appoint agents to
sell
and Instruction Books.
No
Why
pay for territory
struction Books, which
and teach Weidel's
Combined
Tailor's
Square and Curves,
Special rates to agents.
Territory Rights Sold
rights,
is
when you can
sell
and teach the Weidel's
the latest up-to-date system,
Dressmakers and Ladies' Tailors throughout
System and
now being used by many
In-
of the best
the United States
Do You Want To Travel

Or take charge of a Branch School
any and
ments
all
are.
Some
We
styles of patterns for ladies
We
of the
also keep you posted in
give you a special training that will enable you to draft
and children, no matter how large or small the measureall
the late styles as long as you are representing us.
Many Advantages the Weidel System Has That Are Worth

Some Other System
In-
vestigating Before Purchasing
WE
Make
the curves with a pencil, by the curves on the square.
all
No freehand
curves required with this system.
MAKE
Drafts of every style of garments, no matter
how
often styles
may
change; also
large Book of Instructions for reference.
YOUR
WORK
Garments
fit
when
drafted by the
the different attitudes of the form.
Done by
this
of measurement, which adapts
system saves the customer time, as well as yourself, as the measure-
ments produce perfect
Weidel System
itself to
fitting
garments.
Person need not be good at figuring, as the square does the figuring and applies the
measures.
PLEASURE
Awaits those who receive a thorough course
in
Drafting and Designing of Gar-
ments, as good cutters are always in demand at salaries from $20.00 to $50.00
per week.
WKIDKI/S INSTIUK^TION
106
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WKIDKI/S iNSTinU'TlON HOOK.
107
WEIDEL'S INSTKUCTION BOOK.
108
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Measures for Draft No. 19

22
(?)
Waist
38
Hip
40 Front
41
1..
Side
41
Back
126
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127
Measures
22 Waist
38
Hip
for Draft No.

40
Front
41', Side
20
41
Back
128
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GORED SKIRTS ARE DRAFTED

AS FOLLOWS:
In
drafting goretl skirts, begin by

line at top of skirt (see line 2), tLe
in halves. This line is
measnre
length of liip
used to divide the skirt into the nninJMn- of
Noficc
drawing a
gores desired.
As the nine-gore is the fonndation for all
gored skirts, we begin as follows
First, determine the width of front gore desired at hip line, which will depend upon the
prcvaiHng style, in this case 21/4 inches is used.
Measures
129
or use division that is one less than number

gores wanted; if you are drafting a nine-gore
division in eighths for front gore; then make
l)ack gore one inch more than front (314 inches
in this case) divide the remainder into three
equal parts. This is not a fixed rule, as some
cutters prefer to divide as follows:
After
marking off the front width as above, (livi(hthe remainder into four equal parts for a ninegore.
Notice This plan of adding flare does away
with the usual methods of tracing out patterns,
thus saving imich valuable time to tlie busy
;
cutter.
for Draft No.
21
130

C -S
^= o
-4^
scjuai-e at
draw
AX, and
lines 28
and
long
"^
arm touching
EX now
;
I,
29.
AX
îake a dot half way between

and FX,
and square up Y2 inch, then draw lines to star.
to Z (see
to GX is 1/4 inch more than
AX
AX
dotted line).
Measures
22 Wai8t
38
Hip
131
Draw curved line 32 from A through

N, 0, T, U, Z and GX.
E, H,
The space between lines 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15, is

thrown away and is not used in the skirt.
In cutting material all seams must be allowed as the |)atterns are drafted to the exact
measurements.
for Draft No.

40 Front
41
"^^"""^^--^^
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1.,
Side
22
41
Back
132
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Waist
45
Hip
133
23
for Draft No.

41
40 1.. Side
Front
40
Back
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^
SOLD BY
Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co
3838 OLIVE STREET

ST. LOUIS, MO.
PRICE, $1.50
Where garments are purchased ready

made,
it will ofttimes save its

cost in the alteration of a
single skirt.
THIS
little
home.
device
Boor
at
all
poiots.
woman
somethini that every
is
Tiresome
Parisian Gauge,
fittings
and
Six minutes
skirl perfectly so thai its length
There
refillings
is all
that
should have in her
are avoided by ustas the

is
necessary to hang your
uniform and the same distance from the

no feature in the making of a skirt
is
is
so important as seeing that the
bottom does not hang lower io one

place than in another, and at the same time nothing more discouraging than the number of (ilUngs so often necessary to secure saUsfactory
results.
What a
delightful relief
in
and pleasant experience
one short
accompUsh
to
a result that heretofore oftlimK has been impossible
fitting
four
fillings of
from 20
three-quarters of an hour each.
The
It
secret of the
immense popularity which
this
Gauge enjoys
is
due
to
a narrow eight-inch arm, curved In
skirt, over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns
When one hip is larger
is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod to any height desired.
is singulariy true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can
inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must tte an equal distance from the
points, front, sides and back.
conformity with the natural drop of the

around.
Will
arm
This
than the other, as

possibly result,
carpet at all
Last
Tbere
Is
no
clialk used
with the Parisian Gauge.
The employment
of chalk or
crayon has always been
(1) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is oftenChalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. (3) Howit is with extreme rarity that you do nol have to go over your skirts three
or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted wUI
invariably settle to one side so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and lust as sure as she does, just so sure
highly objectionable for several excellent reasons:
times extremely difficult of removal.
Life
Time
shortcoming
will the dress
goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the
will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirl being drawn up will carry your crayon mark
skirl
1906.
lies in
the fact that
bottom you
higher than you intended.
What
Patented
July 17.
(2)
ever, the real
the skirt
is
is to
prevent a
This technique
woman
we have
settling, as
you
just described
is
very faulty and should never be employed.
say, with the Parisian
firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm,
descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the
which
Gauge?
In the
effectually prevents the
first
place, the
bottom
bottom of
of the skirt
from
side, as is so often the case, her faulty position isinstantly
nanifested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip
and
the
hem you
are turning
(bottom
shortens the distance between

! FIXED, while the hip descends,
Her
points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging).
,
may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is

home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments
therefore,
indispensable for
Qg with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from thefloor.
sewing
This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the
pounds, and will nol
room. It is 10 inches high, graduated in ! and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2
tip over while In use.
136
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'The amount
pends on the
to spread pattern at top dewci-lit of material to be cut; on

is l)est not to spread
it
material,
light-weight material
pattern more than
oiir
iiicli,
22
Waist
but on heavy ma-
Measures
40 Front
137
terials it is best to spread pattern until the

front edge of each piece is on the straight of
for Draft No.

41
Back
.3S
Hip
-.
24
41i._,
Side
__U_9
'
188
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Draw
Draw
curve at star.
line 28 Avith 9 curve at star.
I'lace rule Â inch back of K, touching star
and draw^ line 29, 8 inches above waist line.
The third piece on bust division being 41/.
inches, place half of this amount on each side
line 27
with
of line 29.
Draw
Draw
30 with
curve at star.
with 8 curve at star.
inch
back
of O, touching star,
Place
and draw line 32, 8 inches above waist line.
The foui'th piece on bust division being 3%
iiielies, place half on each side of line 32.
Draw line .!2 with
curve at star.
Diaw line 34 with 8 curve at star.
Scjuare line 35 through V by line 14.
S inches above V, measure forward 3 inches,
line
line 31
I'ule 1
tlie
width of
last piece.
Draw
line 36
Mark
i)rincess
with
curve at star.
any height above waist
Measures
Hip
139
desired.
For bottom of skirt draw line

I, M, Q, U and (,).\.
If flare is wanted add according
'M
through
points A, E,
to draft
No.
22 for nine-gore skirt.

For inverted plait make same as draft No. 22
for nine-gore skirt.
For habit hack as follows
First mark olT inverted plait, then make U to
two-thirds the width of inveited plait.
is
inch back of S.
Draw straight line from Q.\ to PX; then
continue curved line from P.\ to V, with
(See dotte.l line).
curve' at V.
Notice In cutting material for ]tlaiu goods
lay the front edge of each i)iece on the straiglit
of goods, for striped goods lay the center of
each gore on a stripe. All seams nmst be allowed in cutting the material.
QX
PX
line
for Draft No.
25
WEIDELVS INSTRUCTION BOOK.
140
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WEIDELS INSTRUCTION
no 12.
With
AVitli 11
curve at waist-line draw
line
:U into
With
ciii-ve at waist-liiic
draw
line
;!.)
into
line
11
()
curve
curve
draw
line
:i()
iutd
waistdine draw
line
157
into
waistdike draw
line
oS into
at Avaist line
at
14.
With 12 curve
U.
at
curve at waist-line draw
line
89 into
draw
line
l.-j.
40 info
12 curve at waistdine
Xotic<
The
between
iôres
iioods
is
usually cut out so as not to make too nuicji
thickness around hips (see lar^-e darts between
front pieces). Tlie seams are placed wherever
the selvedge edge comes in under a jdait. This
depends on the Axddth of goods.
l.-J.
With
n."
With
i:!.
With
ne
()
141
line 15.
ne 12.
ne
IJOOK.
ne
Measures
22
Waist
38
Hip
26
for Draft No.

40
Front
y
40',.
Side
41
Baok
9
WEI DEL 'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.
142
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r"
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DRAFT 2?
144
WETDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

COLLARS, CUFFS
&
NECK BANDS
145
146
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DRAFT
39
147
148
<1
DRAFT 40
149
150
Draft No. 40 X.
Shows pattern after l)i'iiig cut and spread on
a:oods.
DRAFT
40 X
151
152
VVE1DEL' INSTRLIdTiOJ^ BOOK.
WEIDELVS INSTRUCTION BOOK.
DRAFT 42
153
154
W-S
So
&
(U
DRAFT
45
155
156
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45 A
DRAFT
45 B
157
158
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159
A Word About Our College

Pupils desiring to do their
rates.
We
own sewing
or
make garments
for others can do so at the following
teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring.
instructions,
Each
pupil receives individual
no classes formed.
You can begin
at any time.
except Saturday 9 to
College open the entire year.
Instructions daily from 9 to 5
p.
m.,
4.
OUR TERMS
TUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE
FULL COURSE,
either system
and 45 days
Not
les-
sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitting,
Basting,
Pressing,
Stitching,
all
DRESS MAKERS' COURSE,
kinds of ladies' and children's gar-
is
system and Instruction Book,
45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00

12 drafting les-
sons system and Instruction book.
ments, $25.00.
TUITION
than ten days sold to any pupil.
FULL COURSE
Boning,
Draping and Finishing; with system for drafting
less
$15.00
System and large Instruction book
always payable
No
in
10 days' lessons without system
advance.
extra charge for patterns
if
work
is
10.00
5.00
finished in school
Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.

ST. LOUIS.
rf^'
'/!
INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR
WÊIDEL'S
Combined
One
Square and Curves
T<\iilor
Piece for [Drafting every
shape or form
WEIDEL
A.
].
size,
Inventor
The square used by

all
mechanics
Every time
You draw a line

(You say that looks fine
Ti.)
be made in such a
Shc^rt time because
it
was
Drafted by
WEinEL'S
You
AND
SQUARE
make any
needj not
Which are
qu't-e
CURVE
free
trying to your nerves
And wh^n your
draft
is al)
Yo'u are delighted to
woi'l<J
say
And wonder I'OW
With the above invention you car
complete
know
accomplished the feat
y()u
For some
COMBINE
hand curves
it
"aft
it
was made with a
stencil
could be done with a pencil
every style of Skirt, Coat,
Waist,
and Sleeve
for Ladies and Children, and follows every fashion.
WEIDEL LADIES' TAILORING COLLEGE

ST. LOUIS, MO.
CO.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
i05 Manchester Ave.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
013 964 938 2

Weidelsinstructi 01 Weid

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TT 52Q

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

cleans gloves, furs, etc.

POLITURA CHEMICAL CO.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

3838 OLIVE STREET

Where garments are purchased ready

will olttimes save its

cost in the alteration of a

is something that every

place than in another, and al

bhould have In her

avoided by usmg the

necessary to hang your

uniform and the

distance from the

does not hang lower in one

ing than the

result 'hat heretofore ofttimes has

in three or four fittings of

three-quarters of an hour each

used with the Parisian Gauge.

must bt an equal distance from the

of chalk or crayon has always been

highly objectionable for several excellent reasons:

times extremely difficult of removal.

ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that

or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results.

invariably settle to one

will the dress

will find that in

higher than you intended.

position, the skirt being

will carry your

very faulty and should never be employed.

and the hem you are turning (bottom

and the arm, with the resulting bagging).

home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments

autifully hung with the Gauge, as the curved

handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing

10 inches high, graduated in V2

over while in use.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

Copyrighted by Weidel Ladies'

WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves

and Children's Garments

ST. LOUIS, MO.

WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

The drafts herein

contained are mostly foundation

we thought it best not to give many fancy

best for the beginner to learn to draft a

and then make such changes as

often as the style demands.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

TABLE OF CONTENTS (Second

Japanese Kimono with Straight Front

Instructions for drafting Shirt Waist... 16

Peg-Top Skirt with 2 draperies

Sleeve for One-Piece Coat

WORD ABOUT OUR COLLEGE