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Materials Needed
Size I crochet hook, or whatever hook to reach gauge
Medium weight yarn, like a cotton or acrylic (See notes
below for considerations)
At least 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric
Coordinating thread
Sewing machine
Optional
Double folded bias tape
Buttons
Gauge
13 sts = 4" and 9 rows = 4" in hdc
Bodice Size
This pattern is for size 2 years with a 21" chest. See suggestions
below for adapting to larger sizes: 4, 6, and 8. (The larger sizes
have not been tested!)
Stitches Needed
Fhdc = foundation half double crochet. This creates a foundation chain and a first row of half double crochet
stitches all in one.
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet stitch
sc = single crochet stitch
blo = back loops only. Insert your hook into the back loop only instead of both loops of the st.
Notes before You Start
The bodice is worked continuously in rounds with the right side facing out. To avoid a noticeable diagonal join
seam along the way, you'll start each round by skipping the first stitch (I like to put a marker in the first stitch to
"hold" it) and then work the last stitch(es) of the round into that skipped stitch before joining at the beginning
with a sl st. Later on you'll notice the ugly diagonal seam will be hidden on the inside, but will be virtually
invisible on the outside/right side. It's magic!
Bodice Pattern
Round 1: Fhdc 48. Be careful not to twist stitches and join with a sl st to first Fhdc. You'll now be working in
rounds going forward.
Round 2: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 23 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * around. (The last 2 hdc
increase will be worked in that first skipped stitch.) Join with a sl st to first st. (50)
Round 3: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st
to first st. (60)
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Round 4: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 5 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st
to first st. (70)
Round 5: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 6 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st
to first st. (80)
Round 6: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 7 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st
to first st. (90)
Round 7: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st, repeat from * around. Join with a sl st
to first st. (100)
Rounds 8 - 10: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) hdc around. Join with a sl st to first st. (100)
Round 11: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) *hdc in the next 23 sts, ch 1, skip next 22 sts, hdc in next 28 sts (first armhole
made), ch 1, skip next 22 sts, hdc in last 5 sts (second armhole made), join with a sl st to first st. (56 sts + 2 chs)
Rounds 12 - 16: Ch 2 (skip first stitch) hdc around. Join with a sl st to first st. (58)
Rounds 17-18: Ch 1 (skip first stitch) sc around in blo. Join with a sl st to first st. (58) - this creates two rows of
the bodice's "belt."
Finish off and weave in ends.
You may also be able to play with sizing to go larger (or smaller!) by increasing or decreasing your hook size to
get a smaller gauge.
Fabric
You'll need at least a half yard of coordinating fabric; more for bigger sizes. Pre-wash and press your fabric. For
the 2 year size, I cut a 30" x 12" rectangle of fabric. My bodice was 10.5" wide when gently stretched, which
means the circumference was 21" around. I cut a wider rectangle because I used a running stitch across the top
and cinched it to the 21" length. This gave the skirt a slightly pleated look at the top where it connects to the
bodice instead of just being a straight skirt. You could also sew in elastic here to achieve the same effect if you
want, but I didn't have any at the time. If you prefer a straighter "pencil" skirt, I still recommend adding an extra
couple inches or so to your rectangle width than you need to account for the seam and your bodice's stretch. If
possible, measure your model for length and add 2" to account for the top and bottom hemming, and the fact
you'll lose a little length when you attach the skirt inside the bodice later.
For the dress where I went up a hook size and held two strands of cotton yarn together to make a slightly
larger, thicker bodice and skirt to wear over a long-sleeved top and tights in the fall, my bodice was 12" wide
when gently stretched, or 24" around. I cut my fabric square 35" x 14" to accommodate the slightly larger size,
and because I wanted the skirt to be a tad bit longer for warmth. Remember: you can always cut too much and
hem or trim if you need to.
A Note about Stretch - Yarn and Fabric
Consider the stretch of both the yarn and the fabric you choose, because this will affect your measurements. I
used a cotton yarn and cotton fabric for the examples in this pattern. The bodice will always have some stretch
due to the nature of being crocheted, but be sure to add a little extra width to fabric that isn't as stretchy (like
the cotton I used) to make sure it has some give when worn. No matter how wide you cut your fabric to
account for stretch, your end goal after sewing up your side seam is to get your fabric to roughly the same
width of your gently stretched bodice so that the circumference of your fabric and the circumference of your
bodice match up when you sew them together. It's better to have slightly wider fabric that you can pleat or
cinch to meet your bodice measurements than to have too little fabric that won't stretch, or that looks bad
when stretched too tightly.
Preparing the Fabric Skirt
Heat up your iron! Pressing when you fold the
fabric to hem will make your edges look crisp and
clean! Fold both the top and bottom edges over by
a 1/2" or so to hem them with clean edges that
won't fray. If you want, grab some double folded
bias tape (Often found with buttons and zippers)
and sandwich the bottom edge of your skirt in
between the bias tape and stitch across the top of
it with a zig-zag stitch to add a pretty, coordinating
trim at the bottom of the skirt without hemming. I
still recommend folding over the top edge at least
once (twice is even better - once over and once
again in on itself) and stitching a straight (or zig zag)
stitch across to secure, even though this part will be hidden on the inside of the bodice. This way you don't have
fraying on the inside, which could be itchy and uncomfortable to the wearer.
2015 Lesley A. Karpiuk || http://www.ThePinkToque.com || http://www.geeksoap.net || Lesley@ThePinkToque.com
worked into the skipped stitch before using a sl st into the ch2 space to complete each sleeve row, just
as you did in the bodice pattern. Don't forget to count rows and measure along the way so that you
remember what you did on the first sleeve to replicate on the second sleeve. You'll want to gently
decrease the last several rows as you get closer to the wrist opening of the sleeve.