IYP - in Your Pocket - Amsterdam (Summer 2015)

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Amsterdam
Summer 2015
Cycling in Noord
Explore hipster hot

spots and rural villages
inyourpocket.com
N17 - FREE COPY
Summer Festivals
Discover Kwaku,
Loveland and Appelsap
Contents
Gay Amsterdam
50
A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Coffeeshops
52
Where to smoke responsibly
Foreword
A few words from the editor
Arriving & Getting Around
Amsterdam for kids
List of small features
Getting to grips with Amsterdam
Centrum
10
Canals, cafs & the Plantage
Nieuw-West
36
Lakes, parks and modern architecture
Noord
38
Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design
Oost
40
Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods
West
42
Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek
Zuid
44
De Pijp and some of the citys best museums
Zuidoost
Colossal shopping centres and the home of Ajax
56
Spas, doctors and other useful information
How to get to and from your hotel
Amsterdam Basics
Lifestyle Directory
48
58
Interesting ways to spend the day with your offspring
Cash or credit?
Anne Frank on stage
Miraculous Amsterdam
Uitsmijter: a classic dish
Cafs & Cafeterias
Red Light streets
Bitter... balls?
Loveland Festival
Cycling in Noord
Appelsap Festival
Kwaku Festival
Bet van Beerens caf
Swinging 1960s London
Amsterdam souvenirs
6
9
11
13
17
20
23
37
39
41
49
51
56
57
Maps & Index

Centrum: old centre map
Amsterdam map
Venue index
37
38
59
An Amsterdam summer in all
its splendour
facebook.com/amsterdaminyourpocket
Summer 2015
Foreword
Summer can be the best and the worst time to visit Amsterdam depending on whether or not you like crowds. At
this time of the year it seems that the streets and canals
are teeming with tourists eager to discover one of the
worlds most fascinating cities. This, of course, means that
its a good time to meet new people, but unfortunately you
might have to do this while queueing up at one of the citys
renowned museums. Yes, you will have to wait a while to
get into the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum or the
Anne Frank House. If, however, youd like to escape the
multitudes then you might consider a short tram ride to
some of Amsterdams outlying districts, but bear in mind
that parks in far-flung areas of the city are also prime locations for summer festivals. If this sounds appealing then
check out the Loveland, Appelsap and KWAKU festivals in
Zuidoost, Oost and Nieuw-West this summer. No matter
what you choose to see and do, were confident this guide
will point you in the right direction.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
In Your Pocket Netherlands
C I TY G U I D E S
Ammerstraat 25, 5324 CA, Ammerzoden, The Netherlands
ISSN 2211-2480
Company Office & Accounts
Tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46, amsterdam@inyourpocket.com,
www.inyourpocket.com
Amsterdam In Your Pocket is printed by SIA DuGa in the EU
Editorial
Editorial team Martins Zaprauskis & Theo Leerintveld
Layout & Design Martins Zaprauskis
Research Theo Leerintveld
Photography M. Zaprauskis & T. Leerintveld. Others courtesy
of Amsterdam city governments and Amsterdam Marketing.
Cover DigiDaan
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation

Theo Leerintveld, tel. (+31) 653 79 91 46,
theo.leerintveld@inyourpocket.com
It comes as no surprise that

Amsterdam is flat as a Dutch
pancake, but you dont have
to buy a drink at an expensive
cocktail bar on the top floor of a
trendy hotel to enjoy a fantastic
view of the city from high above
the ground. This editions cover
photo was taken on the rooftop
terrace of Science Centre Nemo, which is the perfect
place for a picnic with a view. The area is child-friendly
and open to the public.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket Netherlands. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
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4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket
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amsterdam.inyourpocket.com

Arriving in Amsterdam is simple and no matter what mode
of transportation you choose nearly all roads lead to the
Amsterdam Central Station right in the heart of the city.
BY PLANE
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol (AMS) is located less than
10km southwest of the city centre. Its one of the busiest
airports in Europe receiving nearly 50 million passengers
each year, but its easy to navigate and pleasantly efficient.
Youll find your luggage at one of 15 baggage belts and
luggage trolleys are abundant and free. Once you clear
customs youll enter the large arrivals hall, which is essentially part airport, part train station, part shopping centre
and part food court. Although located under one roof, the
building is divided, nominally at least, into terminals 1 - 4.
Just walk straight to the main hall to find most services that
you might need including transportation to the city. An official tourist information centre is available in terminal
2 (open 07:00 - 22:00). Luggage storage and lockers are
available downstairs between terminals 1 and 2. Lockers
cost 6/24hrs and you can pay with a card or with coins.
You can also leave your bags at the storage office for the
same price, but its only open from 06:15 - 22:45. A small
bank of lockers is also available on the ground floor between terminals 3 and 4. Banks, currency exchanges
and ATMs are plentiful so you wont have any problems
getting money.
Getting to town: If youd like a taxi, then head to the
far right of the arrivals hall after clearing customs and youll
find a Travel Taxi office. Buses and hotel shuttles are
available outside the terminal. Just walk straight through
the arrivals hall and youll see the stops outside with the
names of the citys biggest hotels that operate their own
shuttles. Each chain has its own schedule, which is clearly
marked at the stop. You can also take the blue Connexxion
Schiphol Hotel (www.connexxion.nl) shuttle that stops at a
number of large hotels along a planned route. A very long
list of hotels is posted at the stand. A single ticket costs 17
and children 4 - 14 travel for half price. If your hotel isnt
listed its possible that it can be arranged. City bus Nr.197
departs regularly for Leidseplein in the centre of Amsterdam as do other buses to a variety of other destinations
in Amsterdam.
If youre like most people you wont even leave the terminal and youll head downstairs to catch a fast train that
will take you to Amsterdam Central Station in 20 minutes
for only 4. Just walk into the main hall to find a list of train
departures. If you havent already bought a ticket you can
purchase one from one of the many ticket machines with
a credit card. Just choose English as your language on the
touch-screen then choose the following steps: single, destination A.Centraal, 2nd class, full fare, valid today and the
number of tickets. Choose your method of payment, insert
your credit card, enter your PIN, confirm the price and then
wait for your ticket to be ed. Once you reach the Central
Station see Arriving by train. You can also buy train tickets
at the Train Tickets & Services office but youll pay an extra
0.50.
BY TRAIN
Amsterdams Central Station is a monumental building that
was completed in 1889. Although an incredible achievement in its own right, it was later criticised by urban planners for having cut off the city of canals from its most essential waterway, the River IJ. Prior to its construction many
of the citys historic cafs were afforded an impressive vista
of ships masts bobbing up and down in the distance. Today, the massive edifice and its surroundings are a bit of
a mess as the station is being renovated and retrofitted to
accommodate a controversial new metro line.
Youll arrive at one of 15 platforms and then walk
downstairs into the central hall, which is full of newsstands,
kiosks, fast food restaurants and shops. A GWK Travelex
(www.gwktravelex.nl - open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 22:00) currency exchange and an ATM are available
near the south city centre side between platforms 1/2 and
4/5. For toilets that cost 0.50 you have to go up to platform 2. At the far end of the same platform are a Burger
King, Ben & Jerrys, an upmarket restaurant called 1e Klas
(1st Class) and a bar, Caf Balkon.
For tourist information exit the building on the
city centre side and walk across the street to the official
tourist information centre. Lockers for luggage storage
are located on the far east side of the station, but it might
take a while to find an empty locker and even more time to
figure out how to use one. You can only pay with a credit
card. Place your belongings in a locker and close
the door. Find the nearest
keypad that corresponds
with the numbered section
of lockers you have chosen.
Confirm that the locker
number listed is the locker
you have chosen and then
swipe your credit card. Just
stick it in the slot and pull
it out. A ticket good for 24
hours will be printed. When
you want to remove your
luggage just place the ticket into the slot and the door of
your locker will automatically open.
Getting to town: You are in the very centre of town
and all of Amsterdam lays before you. Many of the citys
best, and worst, hotels are only a short walk from here,
but if youre staying in another section of town such as the
Museum District you can take one of the many trams outside. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.80. He will activate
the card for you, but you have to place it up against one
of the ticket readers upon exiting the tram. If you plan on
using public transport frequently in Amsterdam it might
be worth buying an extended ticket. Exit the train station
and walk across the street to the GVB public transportation office (en.gvb.nl - open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 21:00) to the left of tourist information to buy tickets. Free
ferries to Amsterdam-Noord are available on the north side
of the station on the River IJ.
Summer 2015

Amsterdam is a wonderfully walkable city and many of its
major sights are located in or near the city centre. Public
transportation is excellent and we dont recommend driving within the ring of canals. Naturally, cycling is the preferred Dutch method of travel and some would say its the
only way to truly experience the city.
BICYCLE RENTAL
There are many ways to see Amsterdam and its surroundings
but our favourite option is to hire a set of wheels. There are
around 16 million bikes -thats twice the number of cars. Amsterdam also has plenty of places to park your bike for free,
but be sure to remember where you left it. Please note that
around 40,000 bikes are stolen annually. All told, Amsterdam
commuters cycle more than 2,000,000km every day!
AMSTERBIKE
Bike tours, rental and repair.QH-4, Piet Heinkade 11a, tel.
(+31) 204 19 90 63, www.amsterbike.eu. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Wed, Sat, Sun. Prices: 8.50/3 hours,
12.50/day.
MIKES BIKE RENTAL SHOP
Mikes Bikes is famous all over Europe for its sightseeing
tours, but we recommend its beach cruisers with special
tires that hardly ever go flat. Each bike also comes with
two locks, which isnt a bad idea in Amsterdam where bike
theft is as common as dope smoke.QG-7, Kerkstraat 134,
tel. (+31) 206 22 79 70, mikesbiketoursamsterdam@
yahoo.com,
www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. (5 - 15). JA
RENT A BIKE
Hire bikes with hand brakes or the old fashioned backpedal ones that dont include rental company signs so you
dont look like a silly tourist. Each bike has two locks, a necessary luxury in a city of bike thieves.QA-2, Damstraat 20
- 22, tel. (+31) 206 25 50 29, info@bikes.nl, www.bikes.
nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Prices: from 3 hours for 6.50 to
a full day for 9.50. TJA
SUSIEQ SOLEX
Sick of the pedalling around Amsterdam? Hire a solex
and let this electric bike do all the work. Guided tours
on a solex for 39.Qtel. (+31) 207 73 60 61, www.
solextoursamsterdam.nl.
YELLOW BIKE
Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and offering comprehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can
rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour,
professional staff will guide you through the city centre or
take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cottages and wetlands of Noord. QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30
- 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22. A
BOAT RENTAL
MOKUM BOAT
This reliable company rents 30 electric-powered boats
that can seat up to eight people each. The boats are easy
to navigate and no experience or special licences are required. Just leave a 100 cash deposit and youll be on your
way. Its friendly staff can also recommend cafs where
you can moor your boat for lunch or dinner.QE-8, Nassaukade 351, tel. (+31) 614 68 32 77, info@mokumboat.
com, www.mokumboat.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Also
location South: Stadionkade 73, location Amstel: Schollenbrugstraat 1. TJA6L
CAR RENTAL
EUROPCAR
Cars from 40/day.QSchiphol Airport (Aankomstpassage 10), tel. (+31) 203 16 41 90, amsterdam.airport@
europcar.nl, www.europcar.com. Open 06:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. Also at E-9, Overtoom 197. A
HERTZ
Hertz offers short- and long-term rental of cars and vans.
QS-4, Overtoom 333, tel. (+31) 206 12 24 41, www.
hertz.nl.
SIXT RENT A CAR
Straight opposite Central Station this company rents all
kind of cars and vans. Also at Schiphol Airport and other
Amsterdam locations.QF-5, Prins Hendrikkade 20a, tel.
(+31) 206 24 29 55, www.sixt.nl. From 33 a day.
CASH OR CREDIT?
That the Dutch are a frugal lot has never been up for
debate, but, as it turns out, this affects your lifestyle as
much as it does theirs. Although it could just be a much
deserved backlash against banking institutions in the
wake of the financial crisis, more and more cafs are
reluctant to accept credit or bank cards at their establishments. In less extreme cases, restaurants require a
minimum bill of at least 10 - 20 to accept a card as
they have to pay a commission for these transactions.
Still other places only accept cash, while major supermarkets in the city centre such as Albert Heijn only accept local Dutch bankcards. Just make sure you always
have some cash on you because the Dutchman pouring your beer behind the bar wants to save 0.50.
Remember where you parked your bike!

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
GVB (www.gvb.nl) is Amsterdams public transportation company and it
provides integrated metro,
tram and bus service
throughout the city and its
surrounding areas. Since
2010 a comprehensive
OV-chipcard ticket system
allows you to travel on the
metro, trams, buses and
even trains using just one
card. There are a variety of
OV-chipcard options and you can upload them with
travel credits at special machines located at stations
and even in most supermarkets.
You can purchase OV-chipcards for 24 (7.50), 48
(12), 72 (16.50), 96 (21), 120 (26), 144 (29.50)
and 168 (32) hours, which afford you unlimited travel
on all trams, buses, metros and night buses and an
economical way to explore the city. A one-hour OV
card can be purchased onboard from GVB drivers and
conductors, but a premium is charged for this ticket. It
costs 2.80 for one hour of unlimited travel on different
buses and trains in the city that begins once you board
your selected mode of transportation and check in by
placing it next to the scanners near the doors. You must
also scan your card when leaving the vehicle.
FERRIES
Most Amsterdam ferries are available behind the Central
Station and connect the city centre with Amsterdam Noord
on the other side of the River IJ. There are six ferry lines all
of which are free.
AMSTERDAM PASSENGER TERMINAL
Amsterdam in particular and the Netherlands in general
have a long seafaring tradition. Passenger Terminal Amsterdam hosts more than 250,000 people every year. The
striking architectural monument is within walking distance of the Central Station and only 25km from the North
Sea. QH-4, Piet Heinkade 27, tel. (+31) 205 09 10 00,
www.ptamsterdam.com. TJAL
PETROL STATIONS
TEXACO
QD-7, Marnixstraat 250. Open 24hrs. Also at Sarphatistraat 225. Open 07:00 - 21:00. A
TAXIS
ELECTRIC TAXI COMPANY TAXI-E
This cab company uses environmentally-friendly electric
cars. Free wi-fi is included in the price, credit cards are accepted and it offers cheap rates to the airport.Qtel. (+31)
881 00 44 44, www.taxielectric.nl. AW
TAXI MET KINDERSTOELTJES
This 24-hour taxi service offers child seats in all of its
taxis for children of various ages.Qtel. (+31) 611 14 46 99,
www.taximetkinderstoeltjes.nl. Open 24hrs.
TRAINS
Train travel in the Netherlands is really the best option for
getting around and there are three types of trains available.
The High-Speed line covers larger distances quickly, which
is ideal when travelling to Germany, Great Britain or Belgium, while the Stoptrein, not surprisingly, makes frequent
stops between bigger cities. Finally, the Intercity offers fast
connections between Dutch cities. The yellow timetables
in the station show departure times and platform numbers.
The route is shown at the top of each board. There are NS
ticket machines at every station. You can pay cash or use a
Maestro PIN at the NS Tickets & Service desk at major stations and the machines at Schiphol Airport and Amsterdam
Central also accept credit cards.
TRAMS
Amsterdammers love their trams and you should, too! They
provide the best way of getting around the city and run
from 06:00 - 00:30. You shouldnt have to wait longer than
10 minutes at any tram stop. One-hour tickets for journeys
across the city can be bought from newsagents or tram
drivers. They cost 2.80, but if you plan on travelling a lot
youre better off purchasing a 24-hour ticket for 7.50. You
have to touch the scanner near the doors of the tram when
entering and exiting the vehicle.
METRO
The metro is fast and efficient. Its a combination of underground subway and light rail on the surface (sneltram).
Only some 3.5km of track between the Central Station and
the Amstel are actually located underground. The four
metro lines all depart from Central Station and head out
to their final destinations at Westwijk, Gein, Gaasperplas
and Isolatorweg. A new line to Noord will be added in the
future, hence all of the construction around town.
Rent a boat and see the city at your leisure
Summer 2015
Amsterdam Basics
Read on and find out why the Dutch allow people to smoke
joints, but not to operate a bicycle while intoxicated. Plenty
of other funny facts about the Netherlands are available
here.
ALCOHOL
Amsterdam is famous for its cafs and restaurants so youre
never far from a tasty brew or a glass of wine. Heineken,
Amstel and Bavaria are the nations biggest brewers but
other large local brands include Grolsch and Hertog Jan. A
wide variety of excellent Belgian brews are also on offer at
most bars, but keep an eye out for cafs selling beer from
Amsterdams own microbreweries t IJ and De Prael. No trip
to Amsterdam would be complete without a visit to one of
the ancient bars at the beginning of the Zeedijk that specialise in locally distilled liqueurs and Dutch gin known as
jenever. You must be at least 16 years old to drink beer or
wine and 18 to imbibe spirits. If you look too young youll
be carded, so always bring identification. This holds true
for supermarkets and off-licences, too. If youre a little too
tipsy youll probably be asked (firmly, yet kindly) to leave
the premises and if you dont cooperate you could end up
spending a night sobering up in a drunk tank.
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
On public holidays shops and museums often close
earlier and some stay closed the whole day. Schools,
city councils, post offices and banks are closed and
some shops and restaurants may also take the day off.
Those still open will have abbreviated opening hours.
January 1
March 25, 2016
March 27, 2016
March 28, 2016
April 27
May 1

May 4

May 5
May 10
May 5, 2015
May 15 - 16, 2016
June 21
December 5
December 25 - 26
December 31
New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

Good Friday (Goede Vrijdag)
Easter Sunday (Pasen)

Easter Monday (Pasen)
Kings Day (Koningsdag)
Labour Day (Dag van de Arbeid)
Remembrance of the Dead
(Nationale Herdenking)
Liberation Day (Bevrijdingsdag)
Mothers Day (Moederdag)
Ascension Day (Hemelvaartsdag)
Whitsun (Pinksteren)
Fathers Day (Vaderdag)
St. Nicolas (Sinterklaas)
Christmas (Kerstmis)
New Years Eve (Oudejaarsdag)
CYCLING
Being one of the smaller nations in the world, which is basically as flat as a pancake, the Netherlands is an attractive
country for cyclists. Add to that an unbelievable selection
of cycling paths and youll see why the Dutch love their
bikes so much. Unfortunately, riding a bike in big cities like
Amsterdam can still be a nerve-racking experience. Cars,
trucks, trams, buses, scooters and even pedestrians can all
serve as terrifying obstacles that seem to pop up into your
field of vision from nowhere, but other cyclists can also be
just as dangerous. Although parents are confident enough
in bicycle safety to attach carts to their bikes to transport
their children around town, loads of other cyclists ignore
traffic rules and basically ride wherever they like often causing mayhem on the streets.
Do as the locals do and use a bike to get around Amsterdam
MAIL & PHONES

All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Dutch country code is (+31), but
of course, you only have to use this if youre dialling from
abroad. If youre already in the Netherlands and want to call
one of the numbers in this guide, just ignore the (+31) prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.
MONEY
Since 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopted the euro as its local currency and the Netherlands is
no exception. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There
are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of
1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following
values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of 200 and 500 bills in your wallet might make you
feel like Bill Gates, bear in mind that theyre almost never
accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and
withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in
the centre of Amsterdam. All Dutch banks accept Visa and
MasterCard at their cash dispensers, but bear in mind that
ATMs are ridiculously scarce in Amsterdam often leading
to huge queues near hot spots like Leidseplein. At the
train station you can find a GWK Travelex shop (Stationsplein, open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00).
Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept Visa and MasterCard, but to avoid disappointment, be sure to carry
some money with you as some bars only accept cash and
others require a minimum purchase of 15 - 20 to use a
card.
Amsterdam Basics
ANNE FRANK ON STAGE
There are very few people in the world who have never
heard of Anne Frank and her powerful story will once
again come to life at Theater Amsterdam. The new production follows the young heroine from her early years
with her family followed by her harrowing ordeal hiding
in the annex and her ultimate betrayal. The new theatre
was actually built especially for the occasion and spectators can experience the secret world of this heroic girl in
a life-size set. Its also the first performance based on her
original diaries and writings.
PROSTITUTION
It may surprise you to know that the profession that has
helped to make Amsterdam a household word across
the globe, only became legal in 2000. For years, the
Dutch did what they always do when confronted with
a sticky social problem. The police simply turned a blind
eye to the practice and tolerated it. The cops in the Red
Light district only rousted sex workers if they became
too aggressive with passers-by showing off body parts
or tapping on the glass. Today, window shopping on the
Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a popular tourist attraction,
but please bear in mind that these ladies are there to
make a living and are not part of some open-air zoo. Be
respectful and, whatever you do, dont take any photographs up close. Use a zoom lens from a distance if you
want some photographic evidence of your visit to Europes erotic pleasure capital. For more information see
Nightlife.
ROADS
The moving music also sets the tone of the performance. Composer Paul M. van Brugge recently
commented: There is a constant shift between the
magnitude of scales, throughout the performance: a
world at war, the confinement of the Secret Annex and
the intimacy of Annes experiences. The music faithfully
follows suit in terms of orchestration and timbre, as
it meanders between the sounds of a full symphonic
orchestra, a chamber orchestra and solo instruments,
highlighting historical realities, revealing Annes inner
world or adding to the drama.
Although the play is performed in Dutch, a multilingual translation system can also be booked by
ticketholders. It offers audio in English or German and
subtitles in English, German, French, Spanish, Italian,
Russian, Portuguese and Dutch. For the audio you can
use your own mobile phone ear plugs or buy a set at
the theatre for only 1. Performances take place at
Theater Amsterdam at Danzigerkade 5. Tickets can
be bought through www.theateramsterdam.com or
(+31) 881 23 24 11. Performances are held on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 20:00 and extra weekend
performances at 14:00. You can also buy a theatre and
dinner combination and backstage tour of this unique
complex. Photos courtesy of Theater Amsterdam
Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its

compulsory in the Netherlands to have your car checked
for faults at least once every two years) traffic quite frequently jams at a large number of bottlenecks. The majority of Dutch drivers never break the speed limit, and
considering the severity of traffic fines, this seems wise
enough. Driving through a red light? This will cost you
160. Driving too fast within city limits? Be prepared
to pay 180! And as soon as you exceed the maximum
speed by 50km/h youll lose your driving licence and be
fined. Within city limits you must drive 50km/h, outside
city limits 80 and on motorways 100 or 120 (check the
road signs). In the Netherlands you must drive on the
right side of the road, and youre not allowed to cycle on
motorways! You dont want to know how many tourists
are plucked off the road by police each year.
SMOKING
Until recently, smoking was very popular in the Netherlands, but since the introduction of the smoking ban on
July 1, 2008, smoking has become a lot less common. This
is partially because the government started a huge campaign to make people aware of the effects of smoking on
their health. These days you can have a wild night out and
come home without your hair and clothes reeking of cigarette smoke. For some this is an enormous benefit and others (read: smokers) find it a pain and banish themselves to
the many smokers rooms in the country. Thanks to unclear
rules you may suddenly find yourself in a smoke-filled pub.
This is usually in bars with just a single staff member: the
boss. Or you may find yourself in a pub that flouts the ban
on smoking. This will not have any consequences for you.
If you light a cigarette in a pub and the manager tolerates
this, then the manager will receive a fine upon inspection.
The Netherlands is of course also known for its wafts of
marijuana (see Coffeeshops).
Summer 2015
Centrum
Amsterdam Centrum is the district that most of the city's
visitors want to see and it's also the place where most
people end up arriving. The Central Station is the city's
most renowned and popular transport hub and all of the
city centre lies before it. Centrum, as it's called, is actually
quite large, so you may want to use public transportation
to get around, but with a comfortable pair of trainers all
of its sights and sounds can be covered on foot. The infamous Red Light district with its bars and window shopping
is only a short walk across the square from the station as are
the Zeedijk with its restaurants and Chinatown. The world
famous belt of canals, or simply the Grachtengordel, is also
just a hop, skip and a jump from here not to mention the
Dam and Leidse Square (Leidseplein). The popular Jordaan
neighbourhood in the west is full of bohemian cafs, bars
and shops, while the Plantage area in the east is home to
some of the city's best attractions including the Artis Zoo
and the Hortus Botanical Gardens.
ARRIVING IN CENTRUM
If you're already in Centrum there's a good chance that you arrived at the Central Station. From here you can take trams No.1,
2 or 5 to the canals and Leidseplein. Trams No.13 and 17 will
take you to the Jordaan, while tram No.9 will take you to Rembrandtplein in the east and farther afield to the Plantage area.
ACCOMMODATION
Amsterdam has it all from five-star design suites to forlorn hovels that have been grudgingly awarded a single star.
CREAM OF THE CROP

HOTEL DE LEUROPE
If you prefer your flat screen TV to pop up out of the foot
of your bed then youll have no trouble here as this feature comes standard in its rooms. The concierge, dressed
in a top hat and tails, will be more than happy to reveal
all of Amsterdams insider secrets, but if youre feeling a
little peckish you can always try the hotels own Michelinstarred restaurant, BordEau. A spa is also available and its
tiny pool offers views of the Binnenamstel canal.QB-3,
Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-14, tel. (+31) 205 31 17 77, www.
leurope.nl. 100 rooms. PTJHA6UFL
GKCWhhhhh
WALDORF ASTORIA
This elegant five-star hotel appears to be completely
flawless and rooms have been imbued with a chic combination of old world elegance and modern design. All
rooms include king size beds and the wet rooms contain a number of toiletries and other high-end amenities
by some of the worlds most renowned brands. A gym,
several restaurants and excellent room service are also
at your disposal.QG-8, Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31)
207 18 46 00, waldorfastoria3.hilton.com. 93 rooms.
PZTJHAUIFLGBKDX
CW hhhhh
SYMBOL KEY
A Accepts credit cards P Air conditioning
O Casino
T Child-friendly
U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
UPMARKET
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON HOTEL AMSTERDAM
CENTRAAL STATION
This huge hotel offers over 500 spacious rooms in a
modern glass and steel building on the water near the
Central Station. All accommodation includes tasteful dcor with neutral colours, wall-to-wall carpeting,
floor-to-ceiling windows with excellent views, iMac
computers with free wi-fi, refrigerators and private
bathrooms. The massive structure also houses a gym,
conference facilities, a lobby bar, a caf and the rooftop
Sky Lounge that affords patrons unparalleled vistas of
Amsterdam.QG-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205
30 08 00, www.placesdoubletree.com. 553 rooms.
PTJHA6ULGBKXW hhhh
NH CARANSA HOTEL
Yet another member of the NH chain of hotels, the
Caransa offers a great location on Rembrandt Square and
66 rooms decorated in a modern fashion with four-star
amenities like wireless internet, satellite TV, coffee maker,
safe, mini-bar and posh toiletries by Agua de la Tierra.
Although the hotel doesnt have its own restaurant,
guests can take advantage of the Brasserie Schiller across
the square at another NH hotel. The Caransa also has a
pillow menu, which can make all the difference when
sleeping in a foreign bed.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 19, tel.
(+31) 205 54 08 00, www.nh-hotels.com. 66 rooms.
PARW hhhh
Stunning architecture in the city centre
Centrum
BUDGET
Amazing view of the Prinsengracht
BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS

HOTEL NOTTING HILL AMSTERDAM
Located on the edge of the city centre only a short walk
from Amsterdam Souths bustling De Pijp district, this stylish boutique hotel offers 67 comfortable rooms equipped
with LED TVs, climate control, wireless internet access,
Nespresso machines, tea sets, bathrobes and slippers,
safes and private bathrooms as well as designer interiors
in neutral beige and black colours. Its Brasserie Londen is
also a good place for a casual meal, but locals often visit
for its spectacular Notting Hill high tea. A terrace on the
neighbouring canal is also available.QWesteinde 26, tel.
(+31) 205 23 10 30, www.hotelnottinghill.nl. 67 rooms.
PAULGBKW hhhh
HOTEL THE EXCHANGE
The people who brought you the Lloyd Hotel in Amsterdam East have expanded their unique hospitality concept
to the city centre. They believe, and rightly so, that style
should be available to all, so the hotel offers rooms of
varying sizes and levels of comfort for all budgets in one
building. Five-star rooms are more spacious and offer
more amenities than a one-star room, but all accommodation includes cutting-edge interior design. The New York
Times even praised the hotels designers writing: they accessorized each room as if it were a model.QDamrak 50,
tel. (+31) 205 61 36 99, www.hoteltheexchange.com. 61
rooms. hh - hhhh
MID-RANGE
HOTEL CITADEL
This three-star hotel located a short distance from the
Central Station looks like standard, tourist-class accommodation thats been upgraded to reflect more contemporary tastes. Some rooms, such as the triples, still look a bit
old-fashioned, so we recommend the doubles decorated
in subtle greys with the occasional flash of red for dramatic
effect and a large black and white photograph above the
bed. Flat screen TVs, private bathrooms with showers and
hairdryers, phone and safe also come standard and a latenight bar and even room service are at your disposal.QA1, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 98-100, tel. (+31) 206 27 38
82, www.hotelcitadel.nl. 38 rooms. AKW hhh
A-TRAIN HOTEL
If youre a rail enthusiast there really is no other option for
accommodation in Amsterdam than the kitschy A-Train
Hotel. Not only is it located across the street from the Central Station, but a rail theme also dominates every aspect
of the three-star hotel including the breakfast area, where
you dine in rail car booths and the miniature train models
and memorabilia covering every surface of the building.
Rooms are small but offer private bathrooms with shower and hairdryer as well as a TV, phone and safe. QA-1,
Prins Hendrikkade 23, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 42, www.
atrainhotel.com. 34 rooms. JAKX hhh
TOURIST INN
Were almost reluctant to tell you about this little gem, because its usually the place where we stay when we want
to save some cash in Amsterdam. Part hotel, part hostel,
the aptly named Tourist Inn offers clean recently renovated
singles, doubles and triples with flat screen TVs, wireless
internet access, air conditioning and private bathrooms
with shower and hair dryer or slightly cheaper rooms with
shared toilets and showers. Six-bed dorms with clean
bunk beds, TVs, lockers and wi-fi are also a bargain and
the shared toilet and shower facilities are clean and modern. Breakfast is included in the price and four computers
with internet access are available in the reception area for
a small fee. Did we mention that its a short walk from the
Central Station?QA-1, Spuistraat 52, tel. (+31) 204 21 58
41, www.tourist-inn.nl. 22 rooms. PAW
MIRACULOUS AMSTERDAM
Amsterdam first put its name on the map of Europe not
with its trading prowess, its port or with prostitution,
but with a supposed miracle thats still celebrated today on March 12. The story goes that in 1345 a man was
gravely ill and summoned a priest to administer communion, but the man was so sick that he couldnt keep
anything down and kept vomiting, so the clergyman
advised the women of the household to throw any
expelled holy liquids on the fire, which they did. The
next morning they discovered a perfectly formed host,
or communion wafer, in the fireplace, which seemed
impervious to the surrounding flames. A miracle was
declared, a chapel was built on the site of the house
and pilgrims began streaming into Amsterdam. Today
pilgrims of a different sort still converge on the city and
quite a few probably also vomit here, but we doubt
that the shoarma and French fries that come up have
any religious significance. Its also interesting to note
that the chapel was later destroyed and the building
that now occupies its place houses the Amsterdam
Dungeon. Sources also dont seem to mention what
became of the man who started all of the commotion
with his holy heaving.
Summer 2015
11
Centrum
RESTAURANTS
BRAZILIAN
Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the

following is a tiny selection of some of our favourite restaurants. For hundreds more restaurant reviews visit www.
amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
DO BRASIL
A lot of cows sacrificed their lives to create the interior of
this steakhouse and Brazilian restaurant. Although it appears that most people opt for the cheaper grilled meat
specials like unlimited spare ribs, some more authentic
dishes such as tut mineiro (grilled pork sausages, fried
eggs, rice, vegetables and black beans) can be had for
roughly 20. Real Brazilian Brahma beer is also available for
a tidy sum of money, so you might want to stick with the
Dutch stuff.QF-8, Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel. (+31)
206 22 63 32. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (15 - 20). ABW
BAGELS
TONYS NY CITY BAGELS
Not far from the Rembrandt House, this self-proclaimed
New York bagel shop offers a variety of bagels with even
more toppings from traditional cream cheese to guacamole. Order a cold sandwich or tuna melts and BLT
bagels or you can try brownies, cookies and delicious
carrot cake. Naturally, coffee, tea and juice are also available in this bright yellow bistro with high ceilings and
views of the street. Order and pay at the counter.QH-5,
Jodenbreestraat 15, tel. (+31) 204 21 59 30, www.
tonysnycitybagels.nl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (2 - 5).
VILLAGE BAGELS
This tiny bagel caf calls itself a bagel espresso bar and
that really does about sum it up. Americans will be happy
to know that in addition to bagels with less traditional toppings like aged Dutch cheese and hummus, you can also
get pastrami, tuna or plain cream cheese bagels as well as
Arizona ice tea and Gatorade to wash it down.QG-8, Vijzelstraat 137, tel. (+31) 204 27 22 13. Open 07:30 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. (4 - 6). SW
BAKERIES
LANSKROON
Apparently this bakery and caf has been in the Dunselman family since 1908, which means they must be doing
something right. A cappuccino will run you 2.70 and you
can eat a sausage roll or a croissant with ham cheese for
breakfast, but the delicious cakes, pies and tartlets seem
much more tempting.QA-3, Singel 385, tel. (+31) 206 23
77 43, www.lanskroon.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:30, Sat 09:00
- 17:30, Sun 10:00 - 17:30.
BURGERS
BURGERMEESTER
The walls of this tiny hamburger joint are decorated with
photographs of grazing cows. We guess theyre there to
remind visitors that the excellent organic beef on your
plate was once a happy herbivore living on an eco-friendly
farm. Burgermeester specialises in simple, yet surprisingly
creative hamburgers made from environmentally sustainable, organic ingredients. It is precisely this philosophy that makes the meals outstandingly delicious.QI-6,
Plantage Kerklaan 37, tel. (+31) 206 38 38 86, www.
burgermeester.eu. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Also at Albert
Cuypstraat 48; Elandsgracht 130. (8 - 10). GKS
CAFETERIAS
LA PLACE
When was the last time you ate at a gourmet cafeteria?
If the answer is never then head over to La Place which
is connected to the V&D department store on the Kalverstraat. Sample food from several different buffets
that each has its own speciality from seafood, pizzas and
sandwiches to steaks and Asian stir fries all cooked to order. You can also drop by for delicious desserts and coffee
and enjoy them on the balcony overlooking Amsterdams
busiest shopping street below. QA-1, Kalverstraat 201 203 / Rokin 164, tel. (+31) 206 20 23 64, www.laplace.nl.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Also at H-4,
Oosterdokskade 143. (5 - 12). AS
BARBECUE
CAF DE KLOS
Although this place looks like an authentic Dutch brown
bar with solid wood furniture, wood panelling and imitation Dutch master paintings collecting dust on their
chunky frames, the staff assured us that its actually a
restaurant specialising in barbecued meat of all kinds. Order huge servings of spare ribs, smoked chicken, sirloins,
t-bones, lamb chops and prime rib guaranteed to make
a vegetarian salivate. A decent selection of beer is also on
draught including microbrews from De Bekeerde Suster,
which is owned by the same people.QF-7, Kerkstraat 41 43, tel. (+31) 206 25 37 30, www.beiaardgroep.eu. Open
16:00 - 23:30. (12 - 22).
Canalside dining in central Amsterdam
Centrum
CHINESE
NEW KING
We were a little apprehensive when we encountered New
King, because unlike so many other restaurants in Chinatown, this one actually looks stylish with light coloured
wood panelling, red banners of Asian comic book characters eating food and dark brown wallpaper that looks like
snakeskin. Thankfully, this wasnt a case of interior design
prevailing over substance. The Mandarin and Indonesian
cuisine is delicious and the prices are surprisingly reasonable, too! Order whole fish, steaming bowls of seafood,
crispy duck and pork, dim sum and some more exotic
dishes like frog legs. Cocktails and a decent wine list are
also available.QB-1, Zeedijk 115 - 117, tel. (+31) 206 25 21
80, www.newking.nl. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (12 - 18). A
WING KEE
The pink walls and ceiling, the functional tile floor and
other so-called design attributes could hardly be called atmospheric or stylish which is precisely the reason why this
excellent Chinese restaurant is so authentic, but you dont
have to take our word for it. Just look at the photograph
above the bar of Jackie Chan palling around with the owner. Indeed, with the exception of a few wayward tourists
and one travel writer, the Wing Kees clientele seems to
consist of mostly Asian patrons - always a good sign in our
book. Although we recommend the oven baked jumbo
prawns in spicy black bean sauce, one could hardly blame
you for ordering its surprisingly affordable specialities namely suckling pig and crispy duck - that hang in its shop
front window. QB-1, Zeedijk 76 - 78, tel. (+31) 206 23 56
83. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (10 - 20).
COFFEE & TEA

QUARTIER PUTAIN
If you love the brown stuff or need it to jump start your
day then youve come to right place as Quartier Putai sells
coffee from around the globe. The caf itself is divided into
two floors. The upstairs is a breeding ground for future
musical talents, while the ground floor is filled with comfortable seats and cosy niches. In keeping with its musical
atmosphere each patron is given a coin for the jukebox
after theyve ordered a coffee.QB-1, Oudekerksplein 4,
www.quartierputain.nl. PTJAEGSW
DINERS
TEDDYS CORNER
This no frills diner and bar serves up anything from salads and burgers to steaks and lamb chops, but we get the
feeling that most people pop in for a big breakfast with
coffee or tea regardless of the time of day. Although it also
offers beer and cocktails, its more of a place to recharge
your batteries and to line your stomach before returning
to other Red Light bars and coffeeshops on this infamous
street.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 45, tel. (+31) 204 23 21 67,
teddyscorner.nl. (7 - 15). A
UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH

If youre in a caf and cant
decide what to eat, just
do as the locals do and
order the uitsmijter (pronounced outs-may-ter).
This is Hollands contribution to world comfort and breakfast food and is on the
menu of nearly every caf worth its salt in the Netherlands. Although presentation varies from place to
place, its basically two or three fried eggs sunny side up
served on slices of bread with ham and melted cheese.
Some of the swankier establishments in town will also
offer gourmet cheeses, homemade bread and roast
beef or prosciutto instead of ham with a side salad, but
this classic Dutch staple is essentially an open-faced
egg sandwich. Although its usually a huge meal, its
often one of the cheapest items on the menu, which
is perhaps why its also so popular with frugal locals.
In case youre wondering, uitsmijter means bouncer or
someone who throws people out of clubs, because it
was once considered the ideal meal to chow down on
before crashing after a long night out.
DUTCH
HAESJE CLAES
This classic Dutch restaurant spans six historic Amsterdam
houses, many of which still retain their original architectural features including medieval paintings, stained glass
windows and tile tableaux. Order traditional dishes like
pea soup with sausages and salted herring, not to mention three different kinds of stamppot (potato and vegetable mash) from which to choose. Plenty of seafood is also
on offer from salmon in Hollandaise sauce to oysters on
the half shell and steamed mussels. The service is a bit stiff
and formal, but the selection of beer from local city breweries De Prael and t IJ is as good as it gets. QA-2, Spuistraat 273 - 275, tel. (+31) 206 24 99 98, www.haesjeclaes.
nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15 - 22). AB
T LIEVERDJE
This unpretentious caf and bar named after a famous
statue of a small boy located around the corner serves up
classic homemade Dutch dishes like stamppot, haring and
apple pie as well as Indonesian-style fried rice for affordable prices. A good selection of strong Belgian beers and
the locally made De Prael brew are also at your disposal but
bear in mind that the resident cat might choose to sit in your
lap if youre male. Apparently, it doesnt like women or so
the owner claims. A pleasant rustic interior with large brass
candelabras and even an antique chandelier guarantee a
cosy stay here, but remember that during peek eating times
youll have to sit at the bar if you only want a drink. Tables are
reserved for hungry patrons. On Fridays happy hour begins
at 20:00.QA-3, Singel 415, tel. (+31) 625 58 11 56, www.
tlieverdje.nl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (6 - 12). B
Summer 2015
13
Centrum
FAST FOOD
GRILL STEAKHOUSE MAMA
The exalted name is a little optimistic and the faux brick
walls arent fooling anyone, but the shoarma is pretty
good, even at a steep 5 for a small pita. That said, the
sauce is truly spicy and the staff are constantly in motion
cutting meat and serving inebriated pub crawlers in the
middle of the night.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 56,
tel. (+31) 207 77 18 62. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00
- 04:00. (5 - 7). S
MANNEKEN PIS
Named after the Belgian capitals favourite little urinating rascal, this fast food frites shack on the Damrak has
become an Amsterdam institution. Order your deep-fried
potatoes in three sizes for 2.50, 3.50 and 4.50 and one
of 16 sauces is included in the price from traditional mayonnaise or ketchup to an Indonesian peanut satay condiment. Other Dutch snacks like frikandel and kroket can also
be had.QA-1, Damrak 41, www.mannekenpis.nl. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (3 - 5). S
FONDUE
BLOEM
Space here is limited both inside and out on the terrace near
the draw bridge, but the good location and smooth service
make it worth the wait. The speciality of the house is the
cheese fondue and people with big appetites can even order extra free of charge. Apart from this, the menu is a bit
limited so if youre not into fromage, this probably isnt the
place for you. That said, the pastries served here are absolutely delicious.QI-6, Entrepotdok 36, tel. (+31) 203 30
09 29, info@bloem36.nl, www.bloem36.nl. Open 07:30
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (14 - 19). ABSW
ICE CREAM
IJSCUYPJE
Even boats dock nearby on the Prinsengracht to enjoy some
of Amsterdams best ice cream and sorbet and with flavours
like marzipan, coconut and raspberry, you wont mind the
queue of salivating patrons either. Prices are affordable,
but theres no seating so youll have to take it away. A few
other outlets are also available throughout the city.QE-6,
Prinsengracht 292, www.ijscuypje.nl. Open 13:00 - 21:00.
Also at H-10, Eerste van der Helststraat 27; E-4, Haarlemmerdijk 14; Amstelveenseweg 218. TJS
MONTE PELMO
People queue up to get an ice cream cone at Monte Pelmo,
which was formerly a snack bar selling Italian food, and so
will you once you see what this small shop has on offer.
Try anything from the 32 available choices, from conventional pistachio and stracciatella to more exotic flavours
like American cookies and the bright blue smurf.QD-5,
Tweede Anjeliersdwarsstraat 17, tel. (+31) 206 23 09 59,
www.montepelmo.nl. Open 13:00 - 22:00. AS
Charming terrace in the Jordaan
INDIAN
BOMBAY INN
Although the location on a side street near Leidseplein is
quite convenient, this small restaurant looks a little worse
for wear and the idea to cover the walls in red carpeting
was hardly a stroke of genius. That said, were not interior snobs and dcor always takes a back seat to the food
when we write reviews. Unfortunately, despite attentive
service and a selection of real Indian beers, the cuisine
was average at best and the staff claimed that the credit
card reader wasnt working that evening an old ploy inflicted on tourists at some Amsterdam eateries.QLange
Leidsedwarsstraat 46, tel. (+31) 206 24 17 84. Open
17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 15). A
GANDHI
Gandhi is a top-notch Indian restaurant with attentive staff
who serve tasty traditional Indian curry dishes in a room
with no windows and hardly any decorations. However,
the real surprise is its tacky location only a five-minute
walk from Central Station. You could easily walk past this
hidden treasure, so look for a sauna next to the entrance.
Try the combination menus, which are good value for
money.QA-1, Damrak 54, tel. (+31) 206 38 32 22, www.
indianrestaurantgandhi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (13 - 17). PTJAGK
INDONESIAN
PELANGI
This candlelit Indonesian restaurant offers great views of
Rembrandtplein and an extensive list of traditional dishes as well as a variety of so-called rice tables starting
at around 30 for two people. If youre a novice you can
always choose the daily special, which usually includes a
curry, a satay, veggies in sauce and, of course, rice. The
interior isnt exactly noteworthy and we were charged a
whopping 3 for a small cola, which seemed a bit steep.
Had the staff not been so helpful and polite we might
have caused a ruckus. At that price we could have ordered a beer!QB-3, Rembrandtplein 16, tel. (+31) 204
20 06 70. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(12 - 18). AB
Centrum
INTERNATIONAL
BLUE
In our humble opinion, this is one of the best places in
town for lunch despite its location in a hard-to-find corner
of the Kalvertoren shopping centre. Go to the back of the
third floor and look for the large glass tower that houses
Blue. Trust us. Once upstairs you wont want to leave. Look
in any direction and behold the breathtaking beauty of
Amsterdam while tucking into tasty dishes from the simple, yet varied menu. The sleek, ultra-modern interior is
also nothing to sneeze at.QA-3, Singel 457, tel. (+31) 204
27 39 01, www.blue-amsterdam.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30,
Mon 11:00 - 18:30, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:30.
(8 - 13). PTJA6GKW
THE NETHERLANDS
KEEPS GROWING
ITALIAN
IL TRAMEZZINO
If youre looking for something a bit more stylish than your average caf, this trendy bistro serves up a bright white interior
punctuated by some classic Italian products that are also for
sale like Vergnano coffee, prosecco and Di Saronno amaretto
cookies. It also serves small, but delicious sandwiches with
the crusts cut off filled with fresh ingredients like mozzarella,
olive tapenade and mortadella. Naturally, the coffee is fantastic. If it looks full, just squeeze in. Theres more room in the
back.QE-4, Haarlemmerstraat 79a, tel. (+31) 207 70 71 31,
www.iltramezzinoamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
09:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue. (5 - 7). W
PASTA E BASTA
Pasta e Basta is a Dutch institution. Owner Hans Duijf takes
pride in his singers who entertain diners with high-class performances of opera classics and contemporary songs that
really get the audience involved. The food can be described
as Italian pasta dishes with a big selection of anti pasta under the lid of the baby grand piano! A comprehensive wine
list is also available. Many music stars and personalities have
played here for free on their visits to Amsterdam including
Bill Clinton, the late Luciano Parvarotti, who described this
restaurant as his European favourite, and George Benson,
who provided a free concert for loads of gobsmacked diners.QG-8, Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 8, tel. (+31) 204 22 22 22,
www.pastaebasta.nl. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 03:00. Menu: 37. JA
All you need are a few chairs and tables to make a great caf
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LUNCHROOM
DE BAKKERSWINKEL
This long, narrow industrial-looking space with pipes and
wires hanging from the ceiling provides a bright, refined
atmosphere illuminated by a number of skylights. You can
expect classical music, a fresh flower on each table and
gourmet sweets, breakfasts, lunch and a whole menu dedicated to high tea. Meals are prepared behind a long counter
to the right side thats covered in delicious pies and cakes.
The Bakers Shop is by no means cheap, but style and taste
dont come for free. Two small tables are also available out
on the street.QB-1, Warmoesstraat 69, tel. (+31) 204 89 80
00, www.debakkerswinkel.nl. Open 08:00 - 17:30, Mon
10:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Also at C-3, Polonceaukade 1-2 (Westergasfabriek), tel. (+31) 206 88 06 32.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AB
VAN HARTE
In the heart of the fashionable 9 Streets area youll find
Van Harte, a relaxed, down-to-earth drinking and eating
establishment where shoppers find some well-deserved
respite. The extensive drinks list can easily hold its own,
but in our humble opinion its the food that attracts its patrons. Attentive staff smile as they serve huge portions and
a three-course meal, where you can choose from a dozen
starters, main courses and desserts, is still affordable for
under 30. Lunch is an even better bargain at 6 for a filling soup of the day or an unbeatable raw-beef sausage
with Amsterdam sour.QE-7, Hartenstraat 24, tel. (+31)
206 25 85 00, www.vanharte.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
(6 - 12). JAGW
Summer 2015
15
Centrum
MEXICAN
PIZZA
LOS PILONES
Although quite colourful, and definitely not lacking in the
dcor department, Los Pilones chose to forgo the usual
embellishments of sombreros and cacti in favour of Mexican wrestling memorabilia including a giant mural of one
of the sports icons. The menu is limited to tortillas, soft
shell tacos and enchiladas, but the food is good and the
salsa that comes with the gratis chips is surprisingly spicy.
Get here early or youll be stuck on the wrong side of the
border.QD-5, Eerste Anjeliersdwarsstraat 4 - 6, tel. (+31)
206 20 03 23, www.lospilones.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Also at F-8, Kerkstraat 63, tel. (+31)
203 20 46 5; B-1, Geldersekade 111 (Nieuwmarkt). (20 25). PTJAGBK
DE PIZZABAKKERS
This trendy pizzeria has lots of wooden shelves and counters painted a flat grey and a solitary crystal chandelier
hanging from the ceiling. Part of the ground floor also
serves as a storage area for the heaps of firewood that fuels the oven. Roughly a dozen thin-crust pizzas are served
here including vegetarian options and you can sip a cappuccino, prosseco or Peroni beer while you wait for your
food. De Pizzabakkers only accept credit or bank cards so
put that cash back in your wallet.QI-6, Plantage Kerklaan 2, tel. (+31) 206 25 07 40, www.depizzabakkers.nl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Also at S-4,
Overtoom 501, tel. (+31) 206 18 65 54. (9 - 14).
PANCAKES
DE SPIEGEL
Within spitting distance of the Rijksmuseum, this cosy
family-style restaurant and caf has been serving pancakes
and other international food since 1907. Take a seat under
the hanging wooden shoes, lanterns, copper tea kettles
and other nick-nacks clinging to the ceiling and order a
big burger, a healthy salad or a hot drink. The kiebitz (hot
cocoa with rum and lots of whipped cream) really hits the
spot on a cold and rainy Amsterdam day.QF-8, Lijnbaansgracht 277, tel. (+31) 206 26 69 04, lunchcafedespiegel.
nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. (8 - 12).
THE PANCAKE BAKERY
This cellar pancake house serves scores of authentic Dutch
pancakes and omelettes and thats pretty much it. In other
words, a very simple, yet popular concept. Each of its marble-topped tables has a big ceramic bucket of local syrup
with a wooden spoon as well as a container of powdered
sugar, the walls are covered in Amsterdam memorabilia
and the low timber ceilings are simply charming, but the
aroma of pancakes on the griddle can be a little overwhelming by the kitchen. Order them with bacon, onions
and cheese, with ice cream and cinnamon or dozens of
other toppings either sweet or savoury.QE-4, Prinsengracht 191, tel. (+31) 206 25 13 33, www.pancake.nl.
Open 12:00 - 21:30. (8 - 15).
QUINTESSENTIALY DUTCH
FEBO
This chain of snack bars, or rather snack shops, offers
deep-fried croquettes, frikandel and burgers promptly
placed into vending machines right after being made,
which probably sounds strange to tourists and thats
precisely why you just have to experience it. We prefer
a spicy Dutch sausage (frikandel) with an order of frites
and mayo before or after a night on the town, but others
swear by the satekroket. The snack options seem limitless
here so deposit your coins and see what comes out. Also
available at over 20 locations throughout town.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 33, tel. (+31) 206 26 03 60, www.
febodelekkerste.nl. Open 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 04:00. Also at Damrak 6, tel. (+31) 206 38 53 18. Open
10:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 04:00; and many other locations. (1 - 3). JGS
VLAAMSE FRITESHUIS
Difficult to find, Vlaamse Friteshuis might draw your attention with the crowds of people standing around on this
quiet street eating fries. Why so popular? In our humble
opinion it serves up the best fries in Amsterdam. And it
sticks to what its good at because fries are all that it offers.
Various sauces are also available and if youre up for a real
Dutch adventure go for the Oorlog, which is half mayonnaise and half satay (peanut sauce) topped with chopped
onions.QA-1, Voetboogstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 24 60 75.
Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (4 - 7). JS
SOUP
Alfresco dining on Rembrandtplein
SOUP EN ZO
This place specialises in delicious, if expensive, gourmet
soups from simple potato with Roquefort cheese to Surinamese brown bean soup with chicken. Youre guaranteed at least eight different choices and theyre served in
four sizes from something that resembles a childrens cup
to a large container, but bear in mind that the location
on N. Spiegelstraat only offers takeaway.QH-5, Jodenbreestraat 94a, tel. (+31) 204 22 22 43, www.soupenzo.
nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. . (4 - 8).
Centrum
STEAKHOUSES
LA BRASA
Its hard to choose a steakhouse in Amsterdam, as they are
located on nearly every street corner, but this one has certainly tried to get a leg up on its competition as far as interior design goes. Every square meter of this place from the
walls to the ceiling is covered in wide, roughly cut wooden
planks, wagon wheels serve as chandeliers and cowhides
dangle from every available surface like the set of an old
western. You can of course get steaks of varying sizes and
cuts, but we recommend a splurge as the special is tasty,
but on the small side. Tuna steaks, prawns and other seafood are also on offer as well as Argentine beer.QHaarlemmerdijk 16, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 38, www.labrasa.nl.
Open 17:00 - 22:00. (12 - 24). A
TORO DORADO
This is not your average steakhouse. But what can you
expect when the beef youre served is treated like royalty
and fed on a steady diet of beer and sake to create the
perfect amount of fat and marbling? The lucky heifers
also get a daily massage from a personal assistant. Unfortunately, the restaurant staff arent as attentive, but when
the tender Kobe beef arrives you wont care. Naturally, all
of this livestock pampering doesnt come cheap, but the
meal was one of the best weve had in a long time and
thats saying a lot.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 22,
tel. (+31) 204 21 86 95, www.torodorado.com. Open
17:00 - 24:00. (25 - 30). PTJAGBKXW
CAFS & CAFETERIAS

The Oxford English Dictionary defines a caf as a small
restaurant selling light meals and drinks but also adds
that in North America its a bar or nightclub, while in
South Africa a caf is a shop selling sweets, cigarettes,
newspapers, etc. To add to this confusion it also mentions that the word is derived from the French meaning coffee or coffee house. Obviously in Amsterdam
coffeeshops are something entirely different. So perhaps the Anglo-Saxons are to blame and simply cant
properly define this most popular of establishments.
But surely the Dutch can, right? Well, not really. In fact,
locals often refer to bars as cafs and, to add even more
confusion to this complicated linguistic problem, they
call what the English consider a caf a lunchroom.
Americans would probably call these lunchrooms
cafeterias. Confused yet? In this guide weve tried to
simplify things by listing places where you put your
own food on a tray as a cafeteria and a caf as a laid
back venue thats good for a coffee and a light meal or
breakfast. Weve also made a category for classic cafs
that includes historic institutions with lots of local colour. Naturally, you can find many of these caf qualities
at a diner or a greasy spoon, too, but well refrain from
opening up that can of worms.
People-watching on Leidseplein
SUSHI
ZUSHI
If youre either colour blind or careful with money, youre
better off avoiding this modern restaurant. Your bill is determined by the colours of the plates you choose from the
conveyor belt. Anyone whos keen on Japanese cuisine
will enjoy this stylishly furnished restaurant with a great
view of the Amstel and its extraordinary sushi and other
traditional dishes. Its not the cheapest, but definitely one
of the best of its genre.QG-7, Amstel 20, tel. (+31) 203
30 68 82, www.zushi.nl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 25).
JK
TAPAS
MENEER NILSSON
Tired of kids running about and the aroma of zoo animals?
The staff at Meneer Nilsson, which is located right across
the street from Artis Zoo, are ready to pamper exhausted
parents (and their offspring, if necessary) with top-notch
organic meals and tapas on the summer terrace or inside
the mirror-clad restaurant. Everything is reasonably priced,
even the kids pancake meal, but sitting behind the large
windows here, you might just feel like youve switched
places with the animals in the zoo.QI-6, Plantage Kerklaan 41, tel. (+31) 206 24 48 46, www.meneernilsson.eu.
Open 11:00 - 23:30. LB
THAI
BIRD
This Thai restaurant was one of the first ethnic eateries to
open at the Zeedijk in the 1990s and to this day it claims
to prepare authentic meals that are even better than the
stuff youd get in Thailand. A bold statement to be sure,
but it might just be true. Waiters in traditional dress serve
some of the best fresh green and red curries you can get
in Amsterdam with as much white rice as you can eat. The
interior is rather less authentic, but even Christmas lights
mixed with plastic Buddhas cant spoil a truly satisfying
meal at Bird.QB-1, Zeedijk 72 - 74, tel. (+31) 206 20 14
42, www.thai-bird.nl. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (12 - 17).
PTJAGKS
Summer 2015
17
Centrum
The Nieuwmarkt is full of vibrant cafs
VERMEER
Spread out over three historic Amsterdam buildings in the
NH Barbizon Palace, one room is more of a lounge with
a relaxed atmosphere and a fireplace, the general seating
area is elegantly decorated with paintings and chandeliers
and the third room is reserved for private parties. Each
day the chef creates a menu based on the freshest, locally
grown products he was able to procure from organic farms
and the hotels rooftop herb garden. A three-course meal
can usually be had for around 65.QB-1, Prins Hendrikkade 59 - 72, tel. (+31) 205 56 48 85, restaurantvermeer.
nl. Open 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. AI
TIBETAN
VEGETARIAN
TIBET RESTAURANT
Despite its uninspired name, the Tibet Restaurant offers a
truly diverse selection of Himalayan specialities and even
some politically incorrect Chinese Sichuan dishes. The
interior contains murals of Tibetan landscapes, a huge
photo of the Potala Palace in Lhasa, the obligatory portrait
of the Dalai Lama and a disturbing photo of an unwashed
Tibetan child that will make you want to cry.QB-1, Lange
Niezel 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 11 37, www.tibet-restaurant.
nl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Wed 15:00 - 24:00. (10 - 16). A
LIBRIJE ZUSJE
Given the fact that it only has 40 seats and that its currently
the ultimate hot-spot for non-carnivores in the city centre,
it will come as no surprise that reservations are absolutely
essential at Librije Zusje. The same people who brought
you the famous vegetarian restaurant with Michelin stars
in Zwolle have exported the concept to the posh premises
of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel. It offers views of the biggest
courtyard garden in the city and the special chefs vegetarian menu is a mix of seemingly unrecognisable substances
that come together like a symphony in your mouth.QG7, Herengracht 542-556, tel. (+31) 207 18 46 00, www.
waldorfastoria.hilton.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Vegetarian menu: 86/person. PJAUBXW
TURKISH
GLLOGLU
Since 1871 Gllolu has used its secret family recipes to
create wonderful handmade desserts like baklava, Anatolias most famous treat. The exquisite flavour of these recipes have become so beloved that Gllolu has the honour of calling itself the biggest baklava baker in the world
with establishments in dozens of countries including Libya. You can also enjoy other pastries, pies and cakes and
all can be enjoyed with real Turkish coffee. The restaurant,
caf and shop is tastefully decorated with a mixture of European and Ottoman features.QB-3, Reguliersbreestraat
7, tel. (+31) 203 20 42 00, www.gulluoglu.nl. Open 09:00
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. JKS
UPMARKET RESTAURANTS
&SAMHOUD PLACES
Israeli chef Moshik Roth has brought the fascinating world
of molecular gastronomy to the Oosterdokseiland, not far
from the Central Station. Although a three- or six-course
meal will cost you roughly the same as a one-night stay
at a fancy Amsterdam hotel, this chic hotspot is a must
for true foodies. If you appreciate good food, but not the
price tag then reserve a spot in the lounge, which has a
much more affordable menu. Given its location near the
water, fantastic views are also guaranteed. Did we mention that &Samhoud Places has two Michelin stars?QG-4,
Oosterdokskade 5, tel. (+31) 202 60 20 94, www.
samhoudplaces.com. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue 18:30 01:00, Sat 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (three-course
meal 130). AL
MAOZ
MAOZ offers up some pretty decent falafel considering its
a franchise operation. Its large, low-cost vegetarian servings which include an unlimited salad bar to fill your pita is
the reason why its so popular and tends to be full during
peak hours. There isnt much sitting room inside, so if you
order take away you wont be able to capitalize on the allyou-can-eat salad bar.QB-3, Muntplein 1, tel. (+31) 204
20 74 35, www.maozusa.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. (3
- 5). JAS
NORTH AFRICAN
NOARAS RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
Although you can get fairly cheap North African cuisine in Amsterdam, Noaras (noara means flower in Arabic) is an upmarket restaurant that scores high marks
for originality, dcor and service. Chef Jamal Darkaoui
has created intriguing lunch and dinner menus that
combine the best of traditional Moroccan dishes with
classic French influences. The interior is warm and
cosy, yet elegant and uses just the right amount of Arabic elements to create an exotic ambience. We tried
the grilled tuna, vegetable and cumin tagine and were
not disappointed.QH-6, Muiderstraat 18, tel. (+31)
203 54 26 30, www.noaras.nl. Open 12:00 - 22:00,
Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. (10 - 30). A
Centrum
CAFS
You can sit in an historic establishment thats over 100 years
old or sip a special coffee poured by a professional barrista.
CAF FONTEYN
The faded floral print wallpaper and wobbly chairs might
make one suspect that Fonteyn has fallen on hard times,
but that couldnt be farther from the truth. A laid back atmosphere, a good selection of beers including one or two
brews from the IJ brewery and a huge summer terrace on
the Nieuwmarkt make it popular with locals and tourists
alike, especially bohemian 20-somethings. Sandwiches can
also be had, but it doesnt serve proper dinners.QB-2, Nieuwmarkt 13 - 15, tel. (+31) 204 22 35 99, www.cafefonteyn.
nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. BW
MATA HARI
This casual cafe knows how to serve a good brew and
a proper meal in a cosy atmosphere full of comfy sofas
and leather armchairs. Named after the legendary Frisian
exotic dancer who was later executed by the French on
charges of espionage during WWI, this fun venue offers a
touch of history and the best that Mediterranean cuisine
has to offer. Most of its dishes are made with local or fair
trade ingredients and you can enjoy them on a large terrace by the water in the heart of the Red Light district.QB1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 22, tel. (+31) 202 05 09 19,
www.matahari-amsterdam.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 03:00. JAGBKW
CLASSIC CAFES
CAF GEORGE
This stylish caf is the perfect place to spend a lazy day
with a good book. With views of the Leidsegracht outside,
an industrial interior of white tile walls, long leather benches and even a dog area, not to mention great food from
eggs Benedict or eggs cooked any way you like to gourmet sandwiches and salads, George has all bases covered.
Top shelf alcohol can also be had as well as Champagne.
QE-8, Leidsegracht 84, tel. (+31) 206 26 08 02, www.
cafegeorge.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (7 - 14). AB
CAF DE ZWART
This tiny, classic old world caf boasts an inticate, multicoloured tile floor, dark wood panneling and inlaid parquet
table tops. A full bar of spirits is manned by a mustachioed
gentleman in a crisp white shirt from whom you can order coffee, tea and a good selection of local and Belgian
draught beers. Snacks like tostis and liverwurst sandwiches are also on offer as well as a large outdoor terrace with
great views of the hubbub on the square. Given its prime
location, Caf de Zwart is surprisingly cheap.QA-3, Spuistraat 334, tel. (+31) 206 24 65 11. Open 09:00 - 01:00. B
COFFEE@VANLOON
This spacious garden oasis, smack in the middle of downtown Amsterdam, seems to be one of the citys best kept
secrets, especially if you appreciate a good cup of coffee in a tranquil environment. Although the homemade
apple pie is reason enough to visit, most people enjoy an
escape from the bustling metropolis that looms beyond
this historic garden. Members of the Van Loon family, who
have owned the estate since 1884, personally chose the
green and black teas that are served here and its the perfect place for a little R&R after visiting one of Amsterdams
most beautiful canal houses.QG-7, Keizersgracht 672,
tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl. Open
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: adults 9, children
5, children under 6 free. TJAGBW
CAF SCHELTEMA
This classic Dutch caf, brown bar and beerhall is so authentic its a virtual museum of Amsterdam eating and
drinking culture. Its worn wooden tables, floors and wall
panelling have been around for ages, not to mention the
antique memorabilia that seem to cover every available
space. An old stove in the centre of the room keeps patrons warm on cold days or perhaps its the jenever and a
good selection of Low Country beers that keeps the chill
away. Snacks, sandwiches, soups and local main courses
are available as well as salads but we recommend the
French onion soup or one of its hearty country-style omelettes.QA-2, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 242, tel. (+31)
206 23 23 23. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (7 - 18).
Picturesque garden at the Van Loon Museum caf
CAF SCHILLER
Caf Schiller is an average sized eating and drinking establishment with a big history and a favourite among young
and old Amsterdammers, as well as a hang out for the citys
fourth estate - the stingiest lot of tipplers youll find, unless
of course theyve already has few. Old portraits of venerated
men adorn its elegant walls, yet the atmosphere is friendly,
relaxed and open. The whole range of IJ microbrews is available in bottles and the wine list is simple and within reach of
average citizens and lowly travel writers. The cuisine is more
upmarket and you can try suckling pig, cod fillet stuffed
with oysters or fillet mignon for roughly 20.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 24, tel. (+31) 206 24 98 46, www.cafeschiller.
nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 14:00 - 03:00,
Sun 14:00 - 01:00. (15 - 20). A
Summer 2015
19
Centrum
NIGHTLIFE
Once again, the following is but a fraction of the nightlife
reviews that weve covered in Amsterdam Centrum. For a
full list of pubs, clubs and Red Light hot spots as well as
videos visit www.amsterdam.inyourpocket.com.
BARS
BIBLOS
It would take the better part of a day just to describe all of
the junk and clutter that hangs from the ceiling and walls
at Biblos, but here it is in a nutshell: two canoes, 100 or
so licence plates from around the globe, currency both
young and very old, boxing gloves, boat oars, ski poles,
bowling pins and lots and lots of vinyl records. What else
can we say about the atmosphere? Its smoky, packed with
both foreigners and locals and fun. Although plenty of
beers and cocktails are available, shots seem to be popular.
QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 243, tel. (+31) 206 26 21 70. Open
21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. AX
CAF DE KOE
We really like this laid back place where you can enjoy a
good brew or cocktail with a board game during the day
or attempt to mark your territory among dozens of rowdy
patrons at night. Its kind of like walking into a friends house
party except your best buddy probably doesnt have a giant white mural of a cow in his living room. Alternative rock
tunes enjoy a prominent position here, which is a good
thing, but the tempting smells from the restaurant below
can bring on a premature case of the munchies.QE-7, Marnixstraat 381, tel. (+31) 206 25 44 82, www.cafedekoe.nl.
Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. A
CAF EMMELOT
This little pubs popularity is no doubt due to its good
location on a major Red Light thoroughfare near some
of the best window shopping, although you could make
the argument that the loud 1980s music really brings em
in. Others probably appreciate that the smoking ban isnt
enforced here, but we personally only came for the cheap
late night drinks and the pool table. In any event, Emmelot
also provides a big TV and if you beg the bar staff they
might even put on a football match. Ladies need to ask for
the key to crapper at the bar, but the mens trough is open
to all.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 52, tel. (+31) 206 22
16 26. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. BX
CAF HEUVEL
Although it appears to be just another tame Amsterdam
canalside caf in the afternoon, at the weekend this place
is so packed with 20- and 30-somethings that you have
to be a magician just to squeeze past the masses to get
to the bar. So if you like crowds of fun, inebriated folks after midnight, then by all means join the party. The interior
doesnt differ much from other brown bars in the area.
QG-9, Prinsengracht 568, tel. (+31) 206 22 63 54. Open
14:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 03:00. BX
CAF SOUND GARDEN

Being old Seattle sound enthusiasts ourselves, we had to
come to this dive bar to see what all the fuss was about.
Would you believe it that as we walked in, Soundgarden
was blaring from the speakers? Okay, it was actually Audioslave, but pretty damn close. If youd like to see what
an old squatters bar probably looked like before they sold
out (but with more Americans), then this is the place to go.
You can play pool or foosball inside or hit the private canalside terrace, which must infuriate the posh neighbours
next door in the evenings when things heat up. Inside
theres also a smoking room, not to mention a huge painting of Henry Rollins performing in naught but his undies.
QD-6, Marnixstraat 164 166, tel. (+31) 206 20 28 53,
www.cafesoundgarden.nl. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 13:00
- 03:00, Sat 15:00 - 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. EBX
DE DEUGNIET
Owned by the illustrious Caf Heffer across the street,
this cosy bar is so clean it looks like you could eat off the
beautiful tile floor, not that we recommend it. Although
De Deugniet certainly has an antique feel, it doesnt have
that forlorn and worn look so common to Amsterdam
pubs. In fact, it has plenty of interesting design features
including intricate Art Deco chandeliers and lamps as
well as the Bacchanalian scenes depicted on the ceiling.
You can watch sports on TV and listen to modern pop
music, which are of course its biggest drawbacks, and
its choice of Venloosch and Lindeboom draught beers
is refreshing. One of the staff is a numerologist and may
even foretell your future.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 12, tel.
(+31) 206 20 44 27, www.heffer.nl/overige_cafes.html.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
RED LIGHT STREETS

Dont be one of those tourists
fresh off the train that asks the
nearest local where the Red
Light District is located. Its
not hard to find so just walk
straight down the Damrak, as
most people do, and make a
left at the Grasshopper. Then
just keep walking pretty much
straight ahead until you hit
Oudezijds Voorburgwal and,
one canal farther, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, which is
the main strip with lots of ladies and most of the sex
theatres. The area surrounding the Oude Kerk (Old
Church) is also chock full of working girls and you
should definitely walk down the tiny alleys of Trompettersteeg, Bethlemsteeg and Goldbergersteeg nearby.
Although not as popular with tourists, theres also a
street full of red lights between the Spuistraat and the
Singel on Oude Nieuwstraat.
Centrum
BEER BARS
CAF DE SPUYT
Although loads of restaurants and party bars are located at
the opposite end of the street, this less popular section is
a slice of heaven for connoisseurs of alcoholic beverages.
De Spuyt is a beer bar, but its two neighbours specialise in
fine whiskies and wine. This one room bar has such limited
space that it stores beer kegs below the red-cushioned
seating along the left hand wall, but then again thats probably not so unusual when one takes into account that it
serves roughly 100 different brews.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 86, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 01, www.cafedespuyt.
nl. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. B
OLD NICKEL
The ginger coloured cat keeps watch over the Old Nickel
from his perch on the windowsill. Its one of the cosiest places
weve come across in Amsterdam and this is probably in large
part due to its old-fashioned maroon, blue and gold carpet
that looks remarkably good considering what it must have
experienced over the years. Intricately carved mens faces
peer out at the bar from the dark wood panelling and from
the mantel above the beautiful Delft tile fireplace, which unfortunately only offers faux flames. An incredible selection of
roughly 70 beers is available from 10% Trappist quadruples to
strange organic brews made without hops. QB-1, Nieuwe
Brugsteeg 11, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 12, www.oldquarter.
com/oldnickel. Open 09:00 - 03:00. A
BILLIARDS & POOL

THE POOL HOLE
Unlike most pool halls, this one also has plenty of areas
where you can sit down and relax without the unmistakable clack-clack of billiard balls smacking into one another. That said, this partially sunken cellar offers half a
dozen tables and a laid back Bohemian atmosphere with
good tunes on the sound system and lots of candlelight.
QA-3, Voetboogstraat 3, tel. (+31) 203 30 08 13, www.
thepoolhole.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 03:00. AB
BREW PUBS
BROUWERIJ T IJ
You really have to want to find this place. Thankfully, we
did, but our thirst for new brews is, of course, the stuff of
legends. Just look for the giant windmill about a 20-minute
walk northwest of the Artis Zoo along the Hoogte Kadijk
to find this microbrewery offering at least six unique beers
including something akin to a pilsner as well as the spicy
(their words) Columbus, which has an alcohol content of
9%. The tasting room is functional and doesnt offer much
decoration or seating which is why most people choose to
imbibe at the picnic tables outside. Beers are remarkably
cheap, but only snacks are available so you might want to
pace yourself.QK-5, Funenkade 7, tel. (+31) 203 20 17 86,
www.brouwerijhetij.nl. Open 14:00 - 20:00. BS
Look for the little man to find salvation
DE BIERFABRIEK
Watch out! Youre bound to end up completely hammered,
slipping and sliding across the peanut shell-littered floor,
especially if you choose to sit at a table with your own beer
tap at this large minimalist space inspired by American bars.
The Beer Factory offers the simplest of menus that basically
consists of mouth-watering grilled chicken and beer, lots of
beer, which can be both its strongest and weakest selling
point depending on your point of view. In a nutshell, peanut
lovers, beer aficionados and those who enjoy the simple
things in life will definitely have a good time here.QA-2/3,
Rokin 75, tel. (+31) 205 28 99 10, www.bierfabriek.nl.
Open 15:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00,
Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (14 - 19). PJAK
BROWN BARS
CAF PAPENEILAND
This unusual brown bar dating back to 1642 offers great
views of canals and church spires from its excellent position at the picturesque intersection of the Prinsengracht
and the Brouwersgracht. Inside youll find an antique
interior of wood furniture, old blue and white tiles on
the walls and a beautiful, if a bit dusty, Delft chandelier.
Unlike other bars of its genre, Caf Papeneiland also offers seating above the claustrophobic bar where patrons
are allowed to smoke. Sip a jenever with one of the oldtimers or order one of a handful of beers on draught.
QE-4, Prinsengracht 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 19 89, www.
papeneiland.nl. BX
DE PILSENER CLUB (DE ENGELSE REET)
Tucked away in a tiny alleyway off the Kalverstraat, this
simple brown bar is perhaps best known for the fact that
it really has no bar to speak of. Polite male gentlemen in
neckties pour a wide variety of delicious brews from a
back alcove/closet area lending this dark room an odd, yet
old world atmosphere. The peeling wallpaper, wrinkled
lithographs of Amsterdam and sand-covered floor only
add to the feeling that De Pilsener Club is a time capsule
that only locals and the occasional wayward tourist bother
to enter. But in our opinion, its a welcome respite from
the international chains and big brands that line the citys
main shopping artery outside.QA-3, Begijnensteeg 4,
tel. (+31) 206 23 17 77. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun.
Summer 2015
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Centrum
CASINOS & GAMBLING
HOLLAND CASINO
Located on the water between Leidseplein and the Rijksmuseum, this stylish casino has plenty of eating and
drinking options and a great summer terrace. Inside youll
find well-known games like poker, roulette, black jack and
loads of slot machines in two separate halls and focused
gamblers seated in expensive leather chairs doing battle
with machines with imaginative names like Rich Girls, King
Kong Cash, Outback Jack and Cash Fever. Convenient miniguides offering quick courses in gambling are available for
beginners who dont know the rules.QF-8, Max Euweplein 62, tel. (+31) 205 21 11 11, www.hollandcasino.nl.
Open 12:00 - 03:00. POJAUGKX
CLUBS
AKHNATON
Its pretty, its got a small bar with white-teethed barmen
and its got a low stage for all your funky dance moves.
The basic ingredients for a good night out, right? Akhnaton hosts several recurring parties that have a little something for everyone including glow-in-the-dark parties,
queer parties, food parties and even fetish parties with
surprisingly user-friendly prices. Naturally, its not all beer
and skittles here all the time, but you can usually find a
good party at the weekend. Check its website for upcoming events.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 25, tel. (+31) 206 24
33 96, www.akhnaton.nl. B
CLUB ESCAPE
Dont let the name fool you. When partying in Amsterdam, theres no real escaping this large collection of clubs,
unsubtly situated at the Rembrandtplein. Since 1986,
Escape has been successfully run by twin brothers. The
shrill house music in Escape Club wont appeal to everyone, but you can move on to four other separate areas:
Deluxe, Studio, Caff and Lounge. Feeling fooled anyway
because youre caught between high school students and
tourists? For more class, you can always escape to Jimmy
Woos.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 11, tel. (+31) 206 22 11 11,
www.escape.nl. Open , Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 05:00, Sun 23:00 - 04:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. AE
NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY

Were more at home at a punk rock show than a house
club, but even we could sense that something special
was afoot at the Sugar Factory. A diverse crowd of teens
through 40-somethings genuinely appreciate the professional international DJs from as far away as the States, who
know how to get a crowd moving here. The style is casual
so dont worry about your trainers and leave your D&G
gear at home. This isnt exactly the place for the superficial
glitterati. Sugar Factory is all about the music. Belly up to
the bronze-covered bar, order a drink and join the action.
Unlike the crowded faux clubs on Leidseplein blasting Top
40, this place is the real deal.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 238,
tel. (+31) 206 27 00 08, www.sugarfactory.nl. Open Thu,
Sun 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed. Admission: 5 - 12. AE
STUDIO 80
Every week, a long line of hipsters and art academy students are checked by a door Nazi at the entrance of Studio 80 located at the busy Rembrandtplein. As one of the
places to be for contemporary electro music, the club has
weekly and monthly events aimed at the young music fanatic. Visit gay-friendly parties like the infamous Multisexi
events and immerse yourself in the atmosphere of Studio
80, which is often pregnant with new musical creativity.
Dance the night away in the big main hall or lounge on
the couches in the back.QB-3, Rembrandtplein 17, tel.
(+31) 205 21 83 33, www.studio-80.nl. Open , Wed, Thu
23:00 - 03:30, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PJUG
WINSTON KINGDOM
The sleaziness of touristy Warmoesstraat, Amsterdams
notoriously naughty street, might make one think twice
about a visit to Winston Kingdom, but that would be a
mistake. This dark graffiti-sprayed club actually offers decent dance nights and smashing live performances from
tomorrows big indie and electro acts like Justice and The
Gaslight Anthem who have both played here. Filled with
a surprising mix of lost tourists and music-loving locals,
this is an excellent escape from the Warmoes.QA-2, Warmoesstraat 131, tel. (+31) 206 23 13 80, www.winston.
nl. Open 21:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission:
5 - 10. E
COCKTAILS & LOUNGE BARS
Holland is famous for its tiny beers. Try one
SKYLOUNGE
One of the best views of the historic heart of Amsterdam
can now be found at SkyLounge. This trendy cocktail bar
on the 11th floor of the DoubleTree by Hilton is a purveyor
of delicious and expensive drinks, but the terrific view of
the city centre is actually priceless. Fortunately, the staff
are a little slow at this altitude so you can make your elaborate cocktail last quite a while at this breathtaking location.
QG/H-4, Oosterdoksstraat 4, tel. (+31) 205 30 08 00,
www.skyloungeamsterdam.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. PAUEBKXW
Centrum
VESPER
Get your butt out of the red-lit, tourist-laden, commercialised, canal-loving city centre and into the pretty area
around Haarlemmerdijk, where you can shop till you drop
or, better yet, spend an evening at Vesper, a tiny corner bar
with a wide range of spirits and cocktails. Named after the
only girl James Bond ever loved, its no surprise that the
speciality of the house is a martini. During the day Vesper
does high teas and workshops and although it might not
be big, it sure is pretty.QE-4, Vinkenstraat 57, tel. (+31)
208 46 44 58, www.vesperbar.nl. Open 20:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
COMEDY CLUBS
BOOM CHICAGO
This is the only English-language comedy club in Amsterdam. Every night you can watch an evening of improv and
skits la Saturday Night Live performed by the citys funniest English-speakers in a theatre cleverly hidden by its
bar/restaurant. The admission is steep, but Amsterdams
American and British expats dont seem to mind as Friday
and Saturday nights usually sell out. You can also order
food and drink in the auditorium or just relax at the bar
downstairs and save yourself 20. Most performances
begin at 20:15, but visit its website for exact show times.
QF-7, Leidseplein 12, tel. (+31) 204 23 01 01, www.
boomchicago.nl. Open 15:00 - 21:00, Tue 13:00 - 21:00,
Sat 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 20. AK
IRISH PUBS
BITTER... BALLS?
The name bitterballen, or
bitter balls, conjures up all
kinds of images and not
entirely wholesome ideas
from sour edibles hardly fit
for consumption to a sex
toy you might find in the Red Light district. In fact,
these deep-fried morsels of God knows what are a staple of Dutch cuisine and are on offer in nearly every
caf throughout the country. Youll see refined people
in suits gulping down these breadcrumb encrusted
snacks at gallery openings just as often as you see construction workers slowly chewing them with a beer after a days work. Why slowly you might ask. The soft interior, a ragout of meat, parsley, onion, spices and other
mystery ingredients is often served at a temperature
usually only seen in magma chambers beneath volcanoes. This always creates interesting facial expressions,
unusual sucking sounds and the inevitable grasping for
any cold liquid available. If youre too scared to try this
national treat, watch our video at www.inyourpocket.
com/Netherlands/Amsterdam/Restaurants. If you do
decide to give it a go, then dont forget to dip it in some
tasty Dutch mustard.
JENEVER BARS
SLAINTE IRISH PUB

This Irish pub offers loads of red pleather booths, wood
tables and chairs and a decent selection of background
rock music, not to mention sports on a bunch of flat screen
TVs. Guinness and Murphys are its staple brews as well
as Heineken, which is 2 for 1 during happy hour. Where
Slainte truly excels is in its big breakfasts Irish, Dutch or
otherwise, especially the Hungry Man - piles of bacon,
eggs, sausages and mushrooms on a sesame seed bun.
Take a shot of Jameson to flush out your arteries afterward.QA-1, Warmoesstraat 87, www.wittetulp.nl. Open
09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AB
IN DE OLOFSPOORT
The historic building that houses this charming bar was
built in 1618 and replaced the 14th-century St. Olafs Gate,
hence its unusual name. The Olofspoort offers over 200
different spirits including traditional and exotic local jenevers, Dutch liqueurs and bitters as well as homemade
cherry and liquorice liqueurs. Beer drinkers wont be disappointed either as the Belgian Affligem Double on draught
is delicious. Unlike other tasting rooms of it genre, this one
provides plenty of space for its patrons in two large rooms.
QB-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 13, tel. (+31) 206 24 39 18,
www.olofspoort.com. Open 16:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 15:00
- 01:30, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. A
THE TARA
Youve never seen an Irish pub like this. Divided into several different areas, one room has a cosy pub feel with a
fireplace and a mounted stags head, another looks like a
church complete with pews and a pulpit, yet another is
designated for smokers and has two pool tables, while
other rooms include long bars and give off a cocktail
lounge vibe. You can stick with traditional Irish and domestic beers or take advantage of the Taras extensive
wine and drinks list, not to mention upmarket international cuisine. In short, its an Irish pub to impress your
girlfriend.QA-2, Rokin 85 - 89 / Nes 100, tel. (+31) 204
21 26 54, www.thetara.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. AB
WYNAND FOCKINK
This ancient room that looks more like a neglected museum than a popular bar and tourist attraction has been
serving unique Dutch liqueurs and spirits with names like
Rose Without Thorns, Bridal Tears and My Aunts Water
since 1679. A thick layer of dust covers all of the empty
antique bottles as well as the full ones that cause the
wooden shelves to sag precariously above one another.
Unfortunately, its a little hard to find as the Krasnapolsky
Hotel has enveloped it over the years, but if you do eventually get here dont forget to slurp your liqueur without
using your hands when you take your first sip a local tradition.QA-2, Pijlsteeg 31, tel. (+31) 206 39 26 95, www.
wynand-fockink.nl. Open 15:00 - 21:00.
Summer 2015
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Centrum
ADULT INSTITUTIONS
CASA ROSSO
This iconic live sex theatre provides continuous action
for as long as you like. The programme varies over
the course of the evening and ranges in theme from
simple strip numbers and couples fornicating on a rotating bed to lesbian lovers and vibrator acts. In fact,
it seems that Casa Rosso provides something for all of
the popular fetishes including a husky woman so as
not to neglect the chubby chasers among us.QB-2,
Oudezijds Achterburgwal 106 - 108, tel. (+31) 206
27 89 54, www.casarosso.nl. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Admission: 35; 50 including
four drinks. A
THE BANANEN BAR & CLUB
Downstairs for 50 you can drink all you can swill for
one hour on the lounge bar with a variety of talented
women who can do all kinds of interesting things with
ping pong balls, markers and of course bananas. Upstairs is the club, which has a, shall we say, more dignified atmosphere where guests pay 10 admission
to sit by the pole where beautiful women show their
moves in various states of undress. Ordering drinks
is mandatory.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 37,
tel. (+31) 206 27 89 54, www.bananenbar.nl. Open
20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. Admission: bar
45, club 10.
LIVE MUSIC
ALTO JAZZ CAF
This legendary Amsterdam club is about as long as a train
car, but perhaps even narrower. Youll definitely have to
make some physical contact with other music enthusiasts
to get to the stage where live jazz, funk or salsa acts perform every night in front of a packed crowd of hipsters,
locals and foreigners in the know. Its dark the way a jazz
club should be and has something of a clandestine speakeasy feel to it. Theres no cover charge, but even simple
drinks like a Jack and Coke can set you back dearly.QF8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115, tel. (+31) 206 26 32 49,
www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00
- 04:00. AE
The Red Light district needs no introduction
BOURBON STREET
This place actually looks a bit like a barn on the inside with
the exception of the musical instruments hanging from the
rafters and the chandeliers hanging above the bar. At the
weekend its hard to manoeuvre through the sea of bodies
assembled here to listen to blues and rock bands and the
bouncers dont seem to have any qualms about letting as
many people in as is physically possible, but at least youre
getting real entertainment for your 5 cover and not the
blaring Top 40 and techno at neighbouring bars. Live music
every evening.QF-7, Leidsekruisstraat 6 - 8, tel. (+31) 206
23 34 40, www.bourbonstreet.nl. Open 22:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Admission: 3 - 5. AE
CAF CASABLANCA
Have you ever seen a 13-piece band including a horn section and a drummer perform in youre living room? Well
you dont have to. Come to this small bar where live music on a grand scale is guaranteed nearly every evening.
Domelsch, Hertog Jan and Hoegaarden are available on
draught, violins, trumpets and accordions adorn the walls
and old master replicas are suspended from the ceiling. If
this all sounds a little too rowdy for your tastes, you can
always take in some cabaret or a magic show at its bar/
restaurant/theatre next door.QB-1, Zeedijk 26E, tel. (+31)
612 20 05 19, www.cafecasablanca.nl. Open 20:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. AE
THE WATERHOLE
This is the kind of place where you would expect Jim Morrison (or someone like him) to be a regular. A true roadhouse. Its dark, loud and little bit smoky and every square
meter of wall space is covered either in booze bottles, rock
posters, graffiti or musical instruments. Listen to live music from folk and blues to rock nearly every night, shoot
pool on three tables or order a Bavaria draught, which is
nothing special, but plenty of good beers are available in
bottles. If you need another excuse to come, it also offers
a good happy hour until 21:00 on weeknights.QE-8, Korteleidsedwarsstraat 49, tel. (+31) 206 20 89 04, www.
waterhole.nl. Open 14:00 - 03:00. EBX
PUBS
BATAVIA 1920
Located just opposite the Central Station in a prime example of Amsterdam School architecture, Batavia 1920
has a little something for everyone. Often times youll hear
blues music in the background, yet on match days you can
watch football on TV. It serves plenty of international fare
like steaks, big breakfasts and BLTs, but also traditional
Dutch snacks like bitterballen with mustard. Youll have no
problem getting a good cocktail either, but its true speciality is Belgian and Dutch beer on draught. Popular with
expats, Batavia 1920 also offers a large smoking cellar and
special drinks prices during English Premiership matches.
QA-1, Prins Hendrikkade 85, tel. (+31) 206 23 40 86,
www.batavia1920.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00. A
Centrum
BUSTERS CAF
Although Buster would probably recoil at the thought,
we would have to characterise this tiny little pub as cute.
You can get Guinness, Grolsch and even Strongbow on
draught, but beer aficionados can also choose from a
wide variety of strong brews like IJ and Trappist doubles
and triples in bottles. You can watch football on an old TV
above the entrance and a surprisingly good selection of
liqour and cocktails can also be had.QB-1, Nieuwebrugsteeg 15, tel. (+31) 206 25 15 79. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri
16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00.
OLD SAILOR PUB
Just look for the neon Popeye sign to find this popular
Red Light district pub. Inside you wont see sea captains
with eye patches or other old salts, but rather tourists and
stag parties drinking heavily or watching sports on TV or
both. If it werent for the crowds one might even admire
the maritime interior of model sailing vessels, chandeliers
made from ships wheels and nautical lamps. Most people,
however, come here for the cheap drinks.QB-1, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 39A, tel. (+31) 206 24 77 39. Open
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. AB
SPORTS BARS
PLAYERS
Youll find this cellar sports bar full of foreign men watching football on SkySports only a stones throw from Dam
Square. Occasionally youll even see a bored spouse or girlfriend faking enthusiasm for the match of day. The louderthan-life commentary and the giant photos of the terraces
almost make you believe that youre in the stadium. In any
event, its a great place to watch sports, its open very late
and it pours Guinness and Kilkenny brews, not to mention
pitchers of local Bavaria. Pool tables are also available.QA2, Warmoesstraat 170, tel. (+31) 204 20 05 63, www.
amsterdam-dam.com. Open 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. A
SATELLITE SPORTS CAF
If youre hungry for sports and, well, lots of food, then a
visit to this place with the boring, yet aptly chosen name
of Satellite Sports Caf might just be in order. The place is
decorated with flat screen TVs and not much else, which
means its clearly meant for gents with a hankering for
football and an appetite worthy of a Viking feast or Roman
banquet. Order enormous English breakfasts, pancakes,
pizzas, burgers and steaks or test your stomachs mettle
with its speciality: all-you-can-eat ribs for only 9.95. Shot
specials and pitchers of Heineken are available on two
floors on busy Leidseplein.QF-8, Leidseplein 11, tel. (+31)
204 27 25 29, www.satellitesportscafe.nl. Open 08:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AB
Plenty more boozers at

Relax with a tasty brew by the water
WHISKY BARS
WHISKYCAF L&B
Look up at the nearly unending choices of whisky on offer
on the blackboard, take a deep breath and find your favourite scotch. The aptly named Whiskycaf has over 1500
different single malts, bourbons and sour mashes from
around the world including famous highland spirits as
well as drinks from obscure Japanese distilleries. Squeeze
in around the central bar and ponder the possibilities, but
dont worry. You wont get dirty looks from the staff if you
order one of its excellent beers or wines. You can also attend one of its frequent tastings to learn more about quality whisky.QF-8, Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 82 - 84, tel.
(+31) 624 55 41 62, www.whiskyproeverijen.nl. Open
20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. A
WINE BARS
MULLINERS WIJNLOKAAL
The first thing we noticed upon entering this wine bar, apart
from the refined atmosphere, the polished wooden bar and
the green leather benches that put one in mind of an English gentlemans club, was the smell of garlic. Escargot was
being prepared along with a myriad of other delicious tapas,
but Mulliners main focus is of course wine in all its lovely
incarnations. Order a bottle or a glass from the months
specials on the blackboard and relax in this candlelit room
to the soothing sounds of classical music.QF-7, Lijnbaansgracht 266/267, tel. (+31) 206 27 97 82, www.mullinerswijnlokaal.nl. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. A
VYNE
Although wine is still considered a poor relative of beer in
Dutch bars, this attitude has been slowly changing. Here,
however, at the stylish and trendy Vyne, that most ancient
of alcoholic beverages takes centre stage and the warm interior is reason enough for a visit. One wall consists entirely
of a lounge sofa, while the other side of this long narrow
room is a large depository for thousands of bottles of wine.
Running the length of the wine bar in the middle of the
room is a table with space enough for you and 99 of your
friends.QE-7, Prinsengracht 411, tel. (+31) 203 44 64 08,
www.vyne.nl. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 01:00,
Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA
Summer 2015
25
Centrum
SIGHTSEEING
BUILDINGS
From historic canal houses and royal palaces to world-class

museums, Amsterdams city centre has it all.
THE WEIGH STATION (DE WAAG)

This is the most magnificent of the citys remaining medieval gates. Built in 1488, St. Anthonys Gate (Sint Anthonispoort) eventually became an official weigh station for
merchants, its original purpose as a defensive structure
having become obsolete. A number of local guilds also
moved into the building and each one had its own entrance. One of the halls was occupied by the Surgeons
Guild that occasionally dissected a freshly executed criminal, a popular event that was open to the public. Weigh
stations and guilds also fell out of fashion over time and
the building was used for several different purposes over
the years, but since 1996 it has housed a swanky Dutch
restaurant with a great summer terrace on the Nieuwmarkt.QB-2, Nieuwmarkt 4, www.indewaag.nl. Open
09:00 - 23:00.
ESSENTIAL SIGHTS
THE OLD CHURCH (DE OUDE KERK)
Although no one knows for certain, its believed that
Amsterdams oldest stone building, the Oude Kerk, was
erected at the end of the 13th or possibly the beginning
of the 14th century. The church was added onto over the
centuries but eventually ran out of space to grow and then
it suffered a huge blow when protestant demonstrators
looted churches across the Netherlands in 1566 damaging priceless art works in the process. The historic monument and its wooden ceiling were on the verge of collapse
in the 20th century and it was finally closed in 1951 for
lengthy restoration. In 1979 it was again opened to the
public and is now one of the citys most visited attractions.
QB-1, Oudekerksplein 23, tel. (+31) 206 25 82 84, www.
oudekerk.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:30. Admission: adults 7.50, children 12 and under free.
THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM
This historic house was bought by one of the Netherlands most illustrious native sons in 1639 for the impressive sum of 13,000 guilders at a time when a day labourer
was content to make 300 guilders in a year. Unfortunately,
scandal and disgrace made him unpopular and work became scarce. He was unable to cover the loan and went
bankrupt in 1656. His possessions were auctioned off and
he moved to more modest lodgings on the Rozengracht.
An audio guide will take you through the house, which is
reconstructed to look exactly as it did when Rembrandt
was at the peak of his career. View the foyer where he
exhibited his work for potential buyers, his living quarters
complete with funny box bed, the attic where his apprentices worked, his curiosity room and of course his studio.
Staff also demonstrate how etchings were mass-produced
using copper plates.QG/H-5, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel.
(+31) 205 20 04 00, www.rembrandthuis.nl. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Admission: adults 12.50, children 6 - 17 years
4, children 5 and under free. A
TUSCHINSKI THEATRE
This ornate building, which incorporates Art Nouveau, Art
Deco and Amsterdam School architecture, was created
by Abraham Tuschinski (1886 - 1942), a Polish Jew who
settled in the Netherlands in the early 1900s instead of immigrating to the United States, which was his original plan.
He became a successful cinema operator in Rotterdam,
before turning his attention to a forlorn part of Amsterdam where he erected his dream theatre. Unfortunately,
Tuschinski became of a victim of the Holocaust and died at
Auschwitz in 1942, but the incredible building he erected
is still one of Amsterdams most popular cinemas.QG-6,
Reguliersbreestraat 26 - 28, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 72 84,
www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski.
CANAL TOURS
BLUE BOAT COMPANY
Exploring the UNESCO protected canals is often the highlight of any trip to Amsterdam so why not take in the citys
best sights in a 75-minute canal boat tour for only 15?
You can also take a 90-minute evening cruise (17.50)
and enjoy the view with a drink in your hand or spoil your
significant other with a luxurious 2.5-hour dinner cruise
(67.50). Visit its website for exact departure times and locations.QF-9, Stadhouderskade 30, tel. (+31) 206 79 13
70, www.blueboat.nl. (7 - 15). A
GRAY LINE
Make sure youre at the right landing as the multinational
Gray Line has three different departure points.QA-1,
Damrak Pier 5, tel. (+31) 205 35 33 08, www.grayline.
com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Tickets: 13 - 22. TJA
Amsterdams old Weigh Station (Den Waag)
KEYTOURS EXCURSIONS
This company organises more tours than there are tourists
in Amsterdam. Keytours is located at the same address as
the Diamond Museum Amsterdam.QE-8, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53 33, www.keytours.nl. Open
08:30 - 17:00. JA
Centrum
CENTRUM ATTRACTIONS
CHURCHES
MADAME TUSSAUDS AMSTERDAM

Queues at Tussauds can be a bit long at lunchtime, but
thats because everyone is photographed before taking the
lift upstairs where youll be entertained by a light and sound
show dedicated to the Golden Age of the city in the 17th
century. This is followed by a maze of rooms featuring life
size wax figures of your favourite heads of state, actors, rock
gods, artists and footballers. Have your photo taken with
the Dalai Lama, Gandhi, Madonna, Pablo Picasso or Winston
Churchill.QA-2, Dam 20, tel. (+31) 205 22 10 10, www.
madametussauds.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Admission:
adults 19 - 22, children 5 - 15 years 14 - 18, children 4
and under free. Last admission at 17:30. AU
THE PARROT: CHURCH OF STS. PETER AND

PAUL (DE PAPEGAAI)
In stark contrast to the non-stop racket heard from shoppers outside on the tireless Kalverstraat, this well-hidden
church is a small oasis of peace and quiet. Its clandestine
appearance is intentional as it was one of several underground Catholic churches that had to conceal their existence from Protestant persecution, hence its code name
the Parrot. It is typically narrow, like most Amsterdam
buildings, which is the reason for the extensive seating
galleries overlooking the main hall from above. QA-3,
Kalverstraat 58, tel. (+31) 206 23 18 89, www.nicolaasparochie.nl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:45 - 13:30.
RED LIGHT SECRETS

Red Light Secrets is the latest attraction in Amsterdams
Red Light district and it has correspondingly long opening hours for late night window shoppers. In short, its essentially a museum dedicated to that oldest of professions
- prostitution - and is supposedly the only one of its kind
on the planet. Check out typical rooms where the trade
was plied as well as special S&M tools and lots of other
interesting items. The undisputed highlight of the exhibition is the moment when youre allowed to sit behind one
of the red-lit windows to see how outsiders look at you.
Unfortunately, no souvenir shop is available.QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 60H, www.redlightsecrets.com.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. Admission: 7.50. J
WESTERKERK
One of the symbols of Amsterdam, the Westerkerk was
consecrated in 1631 as a Dutch Reformed church and it
still tends to its Protestant flock to this day. Its Dutch Renaissance style is unmistakable and its massive tower embellished with the crown of Austrian Emperor Maximilian
soars to a height of 85m above the city. The impoverished
painter Rembrandt was buried here in 1669, but no one is
quite sure exactly where, yet a plaque marks the approximate spot not far from his son Titus grave. The Westermarkt square outside is a popular meeting place where
you can relax on benches that look like lounge chairs.QE5, Prinsengracht 281, www.westerkerk.nl. Open 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tower admission: 6 - 8.
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Centrum
JEWISH
PORTUGUESE SYNAGOGUE
Most European capitals were hardly an ideal place for
Jews to call home in medieval times, but no city was
more tolerant of this ethnic group than Amsterdam in the
17th-century. As the city prospered, its population grew
by leaps and bounds and among its many new arrivals
were Jews from around the continent looking for a better life. They completed work on this synagogue in 1675
and since then it has served as a centre for Jewish life in
Amsterdam housing also offices, archives, ritual baths and
a rabbinate. The synagogue was completely restored in
2011 and now its treasure rooms which house unique ceremonial objects are open to the public as well as Ets Haim,
the oldest functioning Jewish library in the world dating
to 1616. The ticket price includes admission to the Jewish
Historical Museum nearby.QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 3, tel.
(+31) 205 31 03 10, www.portugesesynagoge.nl. Open
10:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission:
adults 12, children 13 - 17 6, children 6 - 12 3, under
6 free. HAU
MUSEUMS
ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM
The archaeological museum of the University of Amsterdam has an excellent collection of rare artefacts from the
ancient world of the Near East and the Mediterranean
region from 4000 BC to 500 AD. Objects from Egypt include wooden sarcophagi, Coptic art, funerary statues and
pottery, not to mention a room dedicated to mummies
and the embalming process. Upstairs youll find exhibits
dedicated to ancient Greece, Persia and Mesopotamia as
well as the Romans and Etruscans. View perfectly preserved pots and vases, jewellery made of gold and lapis
lazuli, bronze weapons from swords and daggers to battleaxes and precious works of art such as tile mosaics. QA3, Oude Turfmarkt 127, tel. (+31) 205 25 25 56, www.
allardpiersonmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults 6.50, children 4 - 16 3.25, children 3 and under free. A
AMSTERDAM MUSEUM
Although there are many cities in Europe and the Netherlands with histories stretching much farther into the past,
Amsterdams story is unique and unusual and worth discovering at this fascinating and eclectic museum. Follow
the development of this powerful port through medieval
artefacts and art from ancient shoes dating back to the 14th
century and the oldest known map of the city. You can also
learn about the urban development of the city from its bold
plans to dig canals to 20th-century modernisation projects
as well as lots of fun exhibits that highlight popular culture
like films about the Ajax football club and a model of Hollands (and perhaps the worlds) first gay and lesbian bar, t
Mandje.QE-5, Prinsengracht 116, tel. (+31) 204 21 00 95,
www.amsterdamtulipmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission: adults 4, children free.
ANNE FRANK HOUSE (ANNE FRANK HUIS)

There are very few people who arent acquainted with
the tragic story of Anne Frank a brave girl who dreamed
of becoming an author while in hiding from Nazi persecution. The diary of her time spent in the secret annex
was published in 1947 and later translated in over 65
languages. The popularity of her work is reflected in the
huge queues outside this museum that has been teaching
Amsterdams visitors about the Holocaust, the story of the
Frank family and their desperate struggle to survive and
the evils of anti-Semitism and racism since 1960. Inside
youll walk through the warehouse where workers attended to their business every day completely unaware that
several people were hiding upstairs.QE-5, Prinsengracht
263 - 267, tel. (+31) 205 56 71 05, www.annefrank.org.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults
9, children 10 - 17 years 4.50, children nine and under
free. AKW
HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM
Russias most illustrious museum has a subsidiary in Amsterdam, which is housed in a beautiful 17th classical-style
building called the Amstelhof that was once a home for
poverty-stricken elderly women. The Hermitage is currently hosting an exhibition entitled Alexander, Napoleon &
Josphine, a Story of Friendship, War and Art from the Hermitage that will be on display until November 8, 2015. Napoleons death mask will also be on display.QH-6, Amstel 51,
tel. (+31) 205 30 74 88, www.hermitage.nl. Open 10:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 15, children 17 and under
free. AU
HOUSEBOAT MUSEUM (HET WOONBOOTMUSEUM)
The owner of this converted freighter that dates back to
1914 knows a thing or two about houseboats as he lived
onboard for 22 years before moving ashore with the rest of
the landlubbers in Amsterdam. He now runs this museum
which receives over 38,000 visitors each year who are curious to see how people can use a boat as a permanent
residence. View pictures and scale models and discover
interesting facts about the waterways of the city such as
the average depth on an Amsterdam canal (its 2.8m).QE6, Prinsengracht 296K, tel. (+31) 204 27 07 50, www.
houseboatmuseum.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission: adults 3.75, children 3.
Rooftop terrace at Science Center NEMO
DigiDaan
Centrum
NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

In the 17th century the Netherlands was one of the wealthiest and most important nations in the world and this was
in large part due to its maritime prowess. After thorough
renovations, the Maritime Museum once again demonstrates how the sea has defined Dutch culture. Stimulating, interactive exhibits bring 500 years of maritime history to life. The significance of this industry is also explained
in a clear and concise manner. Children will also love the
museum, especially the replica of the famous VOC (Dutch
East India Company) ship.QI-4, Kattenburgerplein 1,
tel. (+31) 205 23 22 22, fax (+31) 205 23 22 13, www.
hetscheepvaartmuseum.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission: 15, children 5 and over 7.50. TJAL
ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM
Its hard to miss the Royal Palace on Dam Square. When the
building was first opened to the public as the Town Hall in
1655, its lavish interior decorated with paintings by Ferdinand Bol and Rembrandt was considered to be the eighth
wonder of the world. Louis Napoleon made it his personal
residence in 1808 when he briefly served as the King of
Holland, but it later became the possession of the House
of Orange. The audio guide, which is included in the price,
is essential as none of the rooms have explanations in any
language. A short movie with English subtitles is available
before you take the tour.QA-2, Dam, tel. (+31) 206 20 40
60, www.paleisamsterdam.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults 10, children under 18 free.
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO

Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition
entitled World of Shapes allows you to create new shapes
from triangles and squares and children can tower above
their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring your
own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food at
the museum. A good museum shop is also available where
you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33,
info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Admission: 15, children under four free. AK
THE HASH, MARIHUANA & HEMP MUSEUM
This museum displays the history of industrial hemp in its
gallery, while its main collection consists of items related
to the history of cannabis, the culture that surrounds it and
its medicinal benefits. QB-2, Oudezijds Achterburgwal
148, tel. (+31) 206 24 89 26, www.hashmuseum.com.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 9.
Summer 2015
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Centrum
VAN LOON MUSEUM (MUSEUM VAN LOON)
This magnificent building owned by the Van Loon family
trust has a rich and storied history and is one of the few remaining examples of authentic Dutch golden age homes
in Amsterdam. It was rented by renowned Rembrandt apprentice Ferdinand Bol soon after its construction in 1671
but passed on to different owners over the centuries until
it was purchased in 1884 by the Van Loon family whose
most illustrious ancestor Willem van Loon co-founded the
Dutch East India Company. Although the family was one of
the citys wealthiest, they cultivated a tradition of opening
up their home to show off its splendour and this tradition
has survived to this day. View 17th-century portraits, period furniture, 18th-century Dutch porcelain, spectacular
wall murals, a centuries-old working kitchen and a spacious manicured garden all in the centre of Amsterdam. As
you walk around its sumptuous rooms you might even run
into one of the Van Loons who still live upstairs. Theyll tell
you to have a seat on one of the priceless sofas to truly enjoy the experience - something for which youd no doubt
be arrested at other local museums.QG-7, Keizersgracht
672, tel. (+31) 206 24 52 55, www.museumvanloon.nl.
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Admission: adults 9,
children 5, children under 6 free.
PARKS & GARDENS

HORTUS BOTANICAL GARDENS (HORTUS BOTANICUS AMSTERDAM)
Located in the quiet neighbourhood of the Plantage, the
Hortus Botanical Garden has been fascinating naturalists,
botanists and fans of beauty for over 300 years making it
one of the oldest such gardens in the world. Although only
a little over one hectare in size, Hortus boasts over 4,000
species of plants from around the globe throughout its
gardens and greenhouses. It specialises in cycads, or palm
trees, the oldest of which was brought to the Netherlands
on a V.O.C. ship centuries ago and has had a home at Hortus since 1856. You can wander around the grounds and
view beautiful flowers, carnivorous florae, a rare Australian
pine thought extinct until 1994 and even a redwood tree.
You can also walk through the butterfly house. QH-5,
Plantage Middenlaan 2a, tel. (+31) 206 25 90 21, www.
dehortus.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: adults
8.50, children 5 - 14 years 4.50, children 4 and under
free. HEK
WERTHEIM PARK
This small patch of green opposite the Hortus Botanical
Gardens offers plenty of benches and views of the nearby
canal that marks one of its boundaries. One shady corner
is also the unlikely resting place for the ashes of Dutch
victims of the Holocaust covered by blue glass, which is
deliberately fractured to represent the symbolic cracks in
the peaceful sky that was forced to watch the atrocities
committed on the ground below. You cant miss the park,
as it is guarded by two large sphinxes at the gate.QI-5,
Between Nieuwe Herengracht, Plantage Parklaan &
Plantage Middenlaan. Open 07:00 - 21:00.
Expert landscaping at the Hortus Botanical Gardens
PLACES OF INTEREST
ARTIS ROYAL ZOO
Founded in 1838, the Artis Royal Zoo is the oldest zoo
in the Netherlands and home to roughly 700 species of
fauna and 200 species of flora. The sprawling park not only
offers a huge collection of exotic animals from near and
far, but also an impressive aquarium as well as a zoology
museum. Many of the strange beasts that inhabit the zoo
live outdoors so you can see camels lounging in the sand
or Japanese macaques jumping about. Walk past lions, elephants, buffalo and giraffes in their enclosures or head
over to the top-notch reptile house to see pythons, giant
tortoises and crocodiles or all manner of creepy-crawlies in
the Insect House. You can also view nocturnal creatures in
the Jungle by Night exhibit, chimpanzees in the monkey
house and strange forms of life from the planets oceans in
the aquarium. Two cafs and a large childrens playground
are also available.QI-5, Plantage Kerklaan 38 - 40, tel.
(+31) 90 02 78 47 96, www.artis.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Admission: adults 18.95, children 3 - 9 years 15.50.
AK
BREWERS CANAL (BROUWERSGRACHT)
Although Amsterdam has no shortage of picturesque canals, this beautiful waterway is one of the citys prettiest
and in our opinion outshines other scenic stretches such
as the Golden Bend. The Brewers Canal began its existence in the 17th century but earned its name hundreds
of years later when many beer brewers chose to set up
shop on the canal. Unlike the busy canals in the centre, the
atmosphere here is laid back and relaxed. Most of the tiny
little houses along the way have brightly painted shutters
and the canal is covered in small bridges.QF-8, Between
the Singel and Lijnbaansgracht.
EASTERN ISLANDS (OOSTELIJKE EILANDEN)
Theres one thing at which the Dutch truly excel: turning
water into land. Large parts of the Eastern Islands (Kattenburg, Wittenburg and Oostenburg) were reclaimed from
the River IJ in the 19th century and the Dutch East India
Company also had its headquarters here. Impressive buildings like the Maritime Museum stand alongside charming
homes, but bear in mind that the neighbourhood may be
pretty, but theres not much else to do here apart from admiring the scenery.QI/J-4, Oostelijke Eilanden.
Centrum
FLOWER MARKET (BLOEMENMARKT)
The Flower Market is a tourist attraction and a functioning
market in one. Although its often called the worlds only
floating flower market, most of the browsing takes place
on dry land as the stalls are located on barges moored on
the Singel and although its quite attractive when walking
past, its actually a bit of an eyesore when viewed from
the other side of the canal. You can buy bulbs and seeds
for all kinds of plants and flowers and we have to admit
that weve also picked up a Venus flytrap kit here, which
was a huge hit with kids at home. The sellers will also send
bulbs to your home address abroad and they know which
countries dont allow the importation of plant materials,
so you dont have to worry about having your purchase
confiscated at customs. Locals also buy flowers here so
the prices are actually quite reasonable. There are plenty
of cafs and souvenir shops opposite the market.QA/B3, Singel (Between Koningsplein and Muntplein). Open
09:00 - 17:30, Sun 11:00 - 17:30. A
GOLDEN BEND (GOUDEN BOCHT)
This stretch of the Herengracht is famous for its grand
manor houses that came into existence when Amsterdams ber-wealthy built their dream homes here during
the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century. Although it figures prominently in city guides of all stripes, the buildings
are actually on the boring side and lack the narrow dimensions and cosiness that most people associate with the
capitals architecture. Youll probably walk by on your way
to lots of local museums anyway, but otherwise you can
give it a pass unless you need to hire one of the prominent
law firms that have their offices here.QB-3, Herengracht
between Leidsestraat and Vijzelstraat.
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
YELLOW BIKE
Yellow Bike has been renting bicycles and offering comprehensive bike tours of Amsterdam since 1990. You can
rent a bike for as little as 12/day, but if youd prefer a tour,
professional staff will guide you through the city centre or
take you across the IJ to explore the dikes, country cottages and wetlands of Noord. Its office is located a short
walk from the Central Station.QA-1, Nieuwezijds Kolk 29,
tel. (+31) 206 20 69 40, www.yellowbike.nl. Open 09:30
- 17:00. Also at Oudezijds Armsteeg 22.
Lounging about at the National Monument
STATUES & MONUMENTS

NATIONAL MONUMENT
Its hard to miss the central monument on Dam Square
thats often occupied by people of all ages and nationalities sunning themselves, reading books or just relaxing. The
brainchild of renowned Dutch architect J.J.P. Oud (1890
- 1963), the National Monument made of white travertine
was unveiled in 1956 as both a memorial to all Dutch men
and women who suffered under the Nazi occupation of
the Netherlands and to the nations liberation. A number of
statues and reliefs symbolise the resistance expressed by all
members of society from labourers to the intelligentsia and
the lions on either side represent the Dutch nation. The giant pillar rises to a height of 22m.QA-2, Dam.
REMBRANDT STATUE
Rembrandt van Rijn (1606 - 1669) is considered to be one
of the greatest painters in Dutch history and King William
III had the honour of unveiling Amsterdams oldest statue
in 1852. But thats not the end of the story. Over the next
decade at least 10 more statues will be erected along the
route that the illustrious painter used to walk from his
house in Amsterdam to to the outskirts of the city where
he searched for inspiration. Each statue will represent a
certain period of his life. A young Rembrandt, opposite the
Amstel Hotel, is the first of these new statues. Statues of
Rembrandt can also be found at molen at Amstel at the
end of Amstelpark and Professor Tulpplein.QB-3, Rembrandtplein.
Summer 2015
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Centrum
SHOPPING
You can shop for the big brands on the pedestrian Kalverstraat, try the boutiques in the Jordaan or find something
exotic in Chinatown around the Nieuwmarkt.
ANTIQUES & ART

DE FRIEDESCHE MOLEN
Antique books and first editions in a variety of languages
including novels by Hemingway, Kafka and Joyce.QA3, Rosmarijnsteeg 6, tel. (+31) 206 25 59 47, www.
friedeschemolen.nl.
KRAMER KUNST & ANTIEK
Old delftware tiles, vases and other antiques including
jewellery and glassware.QG-7, Prinsengracht 807, tel.
(+31) 206 26 11 16, www.antique-tileshop.nl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00.
BOOKS
THE AMERICAN BOOK CENTER
Book lovers could spend days in this temple to Englishlanguage literature. Skip the coffee table books and magazines on the ground floor and climb up to the next two
floors for novels, travel, history, sci-fi, fantasy, political science and even manga.QA-3, Spui 12, tel. (+31) 206 25 55
37, www.abc.nl. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 11:00 - 20:00,
Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. A
Amsterdams shops have something for everyone
CHEESE
REYPENAER
When you walk into this charming shop you not only see
the grins of smiling staff, but also some impressive photos
of Hollands most famous export product, especially the
delicious wheels of cheese made at Reypenaer, one of the
most well-regarded names in the Netherlands. Dozens of
other shops in Amsterdam will sell you the standard yellow stuff, but the cheese sold here is a cut above the rest.
Exclusivity does come with a slightly higher price tag, but
nothing makes a better Amsterdam souvenir than the
vacuum-packed matured cheeses sold here.QE-5, Singel
182, tel. (+31) 203 20 63 33, www.reypenaer.nl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Tastings at 12:00,
13:30, 15:00, 16:30 inlcude six cheeses and drinks. Tickets: 17.50. TJASW
INTERIOR DESIGN
ZENS LIFESTYLE
ZENS employs award-winning designers from Europe and
Asia to create modern tableware, drinking vessels, kitchenware, bath items and other interior design elements with
an emphasis on oriental art and philosophy.QB-3, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 306, tel. (+31) 203 62 09 85, www.
zenslifestyle.com. Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. JA
MUSIC SHOPS
RECORD FRIEND
A large collection of vinyl records and record players.QB2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 64, tel. (+31) 206 20 00 84,
www.recordfriend.com. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
SPORTS & OUTDOORS

FJLLRVEN BRAND CENTER
This popular Swedish brand, which means arctic fox, specialises in outdoor gear from its signature backpacks and
camping essentials to clothing, hiking boots and all the
apparel youll need to spend time in nature. Its large brand
centre is located on the Rozengracht.QD-7, Rozengracht
219 - 225, tel. (+31) 204 28 17 60, www.fjallravencenter.
nl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. JA
Centrum Map
Centrum Map
Nieuw-West
In the aftermath of WWII Amsterdam was in desperate
need of new housing. By 1951 work began on the garden
suburb of Tuinstad Slotermeer, the first of five new neighbourhoods that were added to the west end of the city. Today, Slotermeer, Geuzenveld, Slotervaart, Overtoomse Veld
and Osdorp comprise the urban district of Nieuw-West. A
spacious design with plenty of greenery is characteristic of
these new neighbourhoods, which all surround the peaceful waters of the Sloterplas lake.
ARRIVING IN NIEUW-WEST
Nieuw-Wests main train station is Amsterdam Lelylaan,
which has great connections with Central Station and
Schiphol. The green metro line 50 is probably the easiest
way to get to Nieuw-West from the railway stations at
Zuid and RAI. Along the way it passes six metro stations
in Nieuw-West. Many trams also travel to Nieuw-West including No.13 (Geuzenveld), Nos.7 and 14 (Slotermeer),
No.17 (Osdorp Dijkgraafplein), No.1 (Osdorp de Aker) and
No.2 (Nieuw Sloten). All, with the exception of Nos.7 and 14
(Dam), depart from Central Station.
HOTELS
DUTCH CANAL BOAT
Over 100km of canals flow through the city and, as space
is scarce in Holland, many of Amsterdams residents live in
boats on the water. You can experience this unique way
of life at Dutch Canal Boat hotel, but bear in mind that
the scenery around this canal is quite the opposite of the
grandiose canal belt in the city centre. This boathouse is
moored in a green and quiet neighbourhood precisely between the districts Nieuw-West and Amsterdam Zuid. The
spacious vessel is pleasantly decorated and includes an
outside seating area, a small kitchen and a luxurious bedroom and bathroom. During the winter months, the boathouse gets quite cold and the absence of extra blankets
is a major shortcoming.QWestlandgracht 223, tel. (+31)
622 97 88 77, www.dutchcanalboat.com. Boathouse
140. PLNGBW
DUTCH DESIGN HOTEL ARTEMIS
Other Amsterdam hotels may claim to be boutique or
design hotels, but this incredibly modern building has
been created from top to bottom solely by Dutch designers and artists. Everything in this hotel incorporates
some aspect of inspiring new Dutch design from its 256
rooms and 11 meeting rooms to the food and cocktails
served at its fantastic restaurant and bar, De Stijl. The accommodation is luxurious to say the least with modern,
yet natural furnishings, floor-to-ceiling windows and
standard amenities such as wi-fi and large flat screen
TVs. Naturally, art is displayed throughout the hotel
and it also offers a great summer terrace on the water.
QJohn M.Keynesplein 2, tel. (+31) 207 14 10 00, www.
artemisamsterdam.com. 256 rooms (superior from
89, business from 139). PTHAUFLG
BKXW hhhh
Nieuw-West also has its fair share of windmills
FOOD & DRINK

ASMIN AFHAAL
Possibly the best kebab in Amsterdam can be found at a
hidden local takeaway counter under the Tangiers grocery
store. A trip to Asmin is definitely worth it for the budget
traveller as a doner will set you back only 1.20 and a durum can be had for as little as 2.50. Situated just outside
the Amsterdam ring, Asmin is located in the Plein 40 - 45
market that caters to the large numbers of Moroccan and
Turkish immigrants that live in the neighbourhood. And
since youll be the only tourist queued up here for a delicious, inexpensive kebab youll soak up some local flavour
that many Amsterdammers havent even experienced.
QPlein 40 - 45. Open 12:00 - 18:00. NKS
CAF RESTAURANT KERKZICHT
Sloten locals love Kerkzichts attractive terrace that lies directly opposite St. Pancras Church, and with good reason.
Its a great place for an afternoon drink and once you get
hungry a selection of delicious meals including some regional specialities is available. If youd like to sample one of
North Hollands most renowned meals, ask for the Texels
lamb. You cant go wrong with the beef tenderloin either.
It isnt hard to notice that the restaurant has been a brown
bar in a previous incarnation, as the interior is still quite
old-fashioned. Its setting in a cosy old village house is
also appealing.QSloterweg 1209, tel. (+31) 206 15 39 04,
www.caferestaurantkerkzicht.nl. Open 15:30 - 23:00.
(18 - 20). GBKX
COCOS KEUKEN
Just good food in the neighbourhood is Cocos slogan.
It has to be said that this is quite a modest motto when
you consider that the food in this local restaurant is close
to perfection. With pure, healthy and fresh ingredients
the cooks create basic dishes with a creative flare and all
of these are served by friendly staff in plain, yet cheerful surroundings. Rumour has it that chef Youssef is your
man if you want something thats not on the menu.
QSaskia van Uijlenburgkade 170, tel. (+31) 207 67 03
87, www.cocoskeuken.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Also at Gerrie Knetemannlaan 170; Ottho
Heldringstraat 13 d. (10 - 14). T6UVENG
BKSW
Nieuw-West
COFFEE@LAST
A large red leather lounge sofa seems to be the main attraction in this trendy, industrial-style caf, where clever
nick-nacks have been placed seemingly carelessly on
and next to its wooden tables. But appearances can be
deceiving and, as it turns out, every single detail is deliberate. coffee@last certainly doesnt serve ditch water, as
the Dutch would say, but proper coffee with creamy milk
toppings instead of the whipped air that other java joints
pass off as a cappuccino. Obviously all of these chic surroundings and quality coffee come at a price.QKoningin
Wilhelminaplein 60-62, tel. (+31) 206 15 44 40, www.
coffeeatlast.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. PTAULBSW
FASHION CAF
Not surprisingly, youll find the trendy Fashion Caf in the
heart of the World Fashion Centre. This large space has
been clearly divided into many different seating areas
where you can lounge on cool sofas. Fashion and style are
naturally part of the concept here and this central theme
has even been incorporated into the menu. You dont order a regular sandwich here, but rather a fashion sandwich
or a fashion pasta. Despite these somewhat predictable
and pretentious names, the lunch dishes are quite good
and the prices somewhat reasonable for what you get. If,
like us, youd like to flirt with some of the beautiful women
who come here on their breaks, the luminous central bar
is your best lookout spot.Q Koningin Wilhelminaplein,
www.fashioncafeamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. (4 - 10). PAULKW
SAHAN
On your way to Sahan, you might get the feeling that
youve missed the exit, but keep going and youll eventually find authentic Turkish cuisine in this rather cheerless
area. Although the name Sahan refers to the copper plates
used for cooking in the Turkish countryside, the restaurant
is far from traditional. Expect modern lighting, red and
white leather chairs and modern portions that would
hardly satisfy hard working Anatolian peasants. That said,
the food is simply delicious and the prices are surprisingly
reasonable.QTussen meer 66, tel. (+31) 203 34 32 86,
www.restaurantsahan.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:30. P
SKYY BAR
On clear days you can see the sea from here but on most
evenings the trendy Skyy Bar (their spelling) is a popular
haven for stargazers looking for celebrities here on earth.
The immediate surroundings of this hotel bar are pure
paradise for anyone who wants to catch a glimpse of the
fashion world. Whatever your reason for coming here its
a good place to visit even if you just want to have a look
at the beautiful girls in sexy outfits while sipping a cocktail or some champagne. We recommend the surprisingly
affordable porn star martini, which is a tasty drink indeed.
QHendrikje Stoffelsstraat 1, tel. (+31) 208 10 08 00,
www.skyybar.nl. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 02:00. AULGKW
SIGHTSEEING
DE NIEUWE MEER
Originally De Nieuwe Meer was a simple lake, but since the
1960s the body of water has increased dramatically in size
as its precious sands were dredged to create the foundations for the surrounding neighbourhoods. Some parts are
more than 35m deep and ideal for fish species like perch,
pike, whitefish and even eels. The New Lake is very popular
with yachtsmen and fishermen and it gets especially busy
in the summer. There are several marinas and at the weekend and in summer a ferry link connects the northern and
southern shores with the Amsterdam Forest. De Nieuwe
Meer is located between Amsterdam and Schiphol and
is connected to the canals and streams of Amsterdam via
other lakes. When the weathers good its also a great spot
for a refreshing swim.QN-4, Tjotterspad.
DORPSPLEIN SLOTEN
The traditional houses that surround this picturesque
square reveal that Sloten was once an independent village
before it was absorbed by Amsterdams western expansion in the 1950s. The village square is the oldest part of
Sloten, its history reaching back as far as the 11th century. It
may also interest you to know that the tiny house just next
to the square is the smallest police station in the Netherlands. Some 20m west of the square, on the corner of
Sloterweg and Osdorpweg, youll find the oldest remaining house of the former village. The sign on the house indicates that the building dates from 1692. When you walk
in the opposite direction, about 50m east of the square,
you can spot an 18th-century Banpaal. This pillar marked
the border of Amsterdams city limits.QM-4, Dorpsplein,
tel. (+31) 206 17 45 11.
LOVELAND FESTIVAL
Some of the worlds best
festivals are held in remote
locations far from the din of
civilisation, but Loveland has
offered green landscapes
and a pastoral setting within
Amsterdams city limits
since 1995. The Sloterpark
in Nieuw-West will be the ideal location to get your
groove on August 8 from 11:00 - 23:00. As many as
50 DJs will get crowds moving at different stages, so if
youre into dance music and youre in Amsterdam then
dont pass up a chance to experience this event. Bear in
mind that the festival fills up quickly so you might want
to buy a ticket ahead of time. At the time of writing tickets cost about 47. This years headliners include Nest,
Agoria, Deetron, Ian O Donovan, Michael Mayer, Prunk
and many more. Bear in mind that Loveland is an 18
and over event. For a full line-up visit lovelandfestival.
nl. Photo courtesy of Loveland Festival
Summer 2015
37
Noord
For centuries the north section of the city was an area that
most Amsterdammers weren't too keen on. It seems that
everything unwanted was 'dumped' here, from the gallows
in medieval times to the polluting ship building industry
much later. Extensive social housing projects attracted large
numbers of financially challenged people exacerbating the
stigma that was already attached to Amsterdam's largest
administrative district. Today Noord, or simply North, is one
of the most vibrant areas of the Dutch capital. More and
more people have begun to appreciate the unique merits
of this territory beyond the River IJ. With this in mind we've
put together a small guide to this interesting urban and rural zone that's usually overlooked by most tourists. All you
need to do is to take one of the free ferries behind the Central Station and 10 minutes later you'll be able to explore
Noord and its surroundings. Take a small river cruise on a
boat that offers an all-you-can-eat pancake buffet, do some
cycling in the pristine countryside, bring a towel and swim
trunks and take a dip at one of the area's swimming pools
or visit a festival and see why Noord has become the sizzling new hub of Amsterdam's creative community. There
are three different ferries that will take you over the River IJ
in just a few minutes and bring you to Amsterdam-Noord
completely free of charge. The departure landing is located
just behind the Central Station.
HOTELS
BROOKLYN HOTEL
Opened in 2014, this wonderful design hotel is hard to
miss as it rises above the other structures on the NDSM
wharf that juts out from Amsterdam Noord far into the
waters of the River IJ. You can expect exceptional accommodation decorated in neutral brown, beige and grey
colours that includes leather furniture, big beds, wireless
internet access, mini-bar and all of the other modern amenities no to mention incredible views. We particularly liked
the room where you can shower and look out the floorto-ceiling glass window. If luxury and style are important
then Brooklyn wont disappoint.QM-2, NDSM-Plein
28, tel. (+31) 207 22 06 66, www.brooklynhotel.nl. 88
rooms (standard doubles from 89, deluxe rooms from
129). PALKW
DE BLAUWE POLDER
Instead of staying in Hollands largest city, you could
reside in a tiny village that is home to more cows than
people. The village of Zunderdorp is surrounded by
a typically Dutch polder landscape, yet its just a short
bike ride away from Amsterdams highlights. De Blauwe
Polder offers four slightly different apartments, which
all have well equipped kitchenettes, TVs and wireless
internet access. Bicycles can be rented and golf clubs
are also available in case you want to hit the links at
the next door golf course. The small garden has fixed
barbecues, so dont forget to buy steaks before cycling
home!QM-4, Termietergouw 7b, tel. (+31) 204 94 51
72, www.blauwepolder.nl. 4 apartments (75 - 90).
T6LGBXW
SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
FOOD & DRINK

CAFE T SLUISJE
This remarkable building is located in one of the most
scenic areas of Amsterdam-Noord. At a intersection of
age-old water routes that farmers once used to bring their
milk to the centre of town by boat, passers-by can now
enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of Nobeltje, a liqueur from
the island of Ameland. Unfortunately, there arent many
sailors left in this historical part of Amsterdam, but apart
from that this family-run business is authentic and nostalgic. The menu on the other hand is completely contemporary with chic dishes like warm goats cheese salad and
smoked salmon with capers. Make sure you get here early,
as the large garden and terrace on the dike fill up quickly.
QN-3, Nieuwendammerdijk 297, tel. (+31) 206 36 17 12,
www.hetsluisje.nl. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (5 - 8). TGB
IJ KANTINE
You can enjoy the overwhelming view of the boats on the
ever-busy River IJ through the immense windows of this
industrial building, which has an excellent location, especially in summer. Inside youre plunged into a warm mix
of nostalgic industrial elements, poetic announcements
on the wall, one of the best stocked bars in Amsterdam
and the latest design architecture which is so colourful it
almost hurts the eyes. As far as food is concerned, there
are better restaurants around, but this trendy and sophisticated location shouldnt be overlooked for a romantic
night out or an evening cocktail.QM-2, Mt. Ondinaweg
15 - 17, tel. (+31) 206 33 71 62, www.ijkantine.nl. Open
09:00 - 22:00. (15 - 20). PTA6ULGBX
Idyllic scenery at Ransdorp
Noord
SIGHTSEEING
DURGERDAM
Durgerdam is a tiny hamlet on the shores of the IJsselmeer,
where you can view some traditional wooden houses, a
Protestant church dating from 1687 and a landscape of
wetlands and polders. Another attraction is Durgerdams
marina, where you can gaze at luxurious yachts and envy
the people entering the private sailing club. Historically,
the village was closely linked with the former Zuiderzee
(now IJsselmeer) and for centuries the Durgerdammers
worked in shipping, fishing and trade in general. Today, its
the quiet and the beauty of the water that attracts visitors
to this lovely little settlement.QN-5, Durgerdam.
EYE FILM INSTITUTE
EYE is the only institute in the Netherlands that collects and
displays film-related ephemera like photographs, posters,
soundtracks, equipment and directors archives. Its collection spans the entire length of film history from silent
films to the newest digital productions. Called the heart of
film, the huge white spaces covering over 1200m2 provide
numerous interactive and educational film projects, while
four theatres - each different in size and theme - bring you
the latest art-house films and old classics. Take the free
ferry here for the gorgeous view from its caf and outdoor
terraces.QN-2, IJpromenade 1, tel. (+31) 205 89 14 00,
www.eyefilm.nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 22:15. TJAULGBKXW
NDSM-WERF (NDSM SHIPYARD)
An excursion just west of the NDSM shipyard is a must for
anyone with a taste for modern architecture. The shipping
industry that called this place home suffered greatly during the economic recession of the 1970s and the shipyard
finally closed its doors in 1984. However, the shipyard has
now been converted into a cultural venue that has become one of Amsterdams hottest entertainment centres.
QM-2, NDSM-werf.
SCHELLINGWOUDERKERK
Due to limited space in the wetlands surrounding Amsterdam, buildings are usually built on top of the remains
of a former structure and the Schellingwouderkerk is no
exception. Like many other 19th-century churches, its
built on a mound at the bottom of an embankment. The
churchs interior boasts a blue-green wooden ceiling and
white plaster work.QN-4, Wijkergouw 6, Schellingwoude.
SHOPS
KERAMIEK ATELIER MARJOKE DE HEER
If youre interested in ceramics you can watch the artist at
work here or have a look at the gallery of finished products. The gallery is open on weekends or by appointment.
QN-4, Schellingwouderdijk 243, tel. (+31) 204 90 49 39,
www.marjokedeheer.com. Open Fri 13:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. A
CYCLING IN NOORD
A bike ride through North is essentially a trip back
through the centuries. Four centuries to be exact. Due
to the extensive peat lands and dangerous swamps, this
area remained uninhabited for ages. This unprecedented
and unspoiled piece of wetlands is the Netherlands at its
purest. The route along the Waterland Zeedijk dike from
Schellingwoude to the old fishing village of Durgerdam
takes in the impressive IJsselmeer and the buiten-IJ with
its historic, sailing ships. Durgerdam is the most impressive part of this magnificent landscape; a beautiful ancient fishing village where the multi-coloured wooden
houses opposite the marina lean against one another
and offer views of the vast distances of the IJsselmeer
Lake. When the Zuiderzee was closed off in 1932, a large
part of the fishing industry disappeared. Today the village is a protected conservation area.
Ransdorp is one of those typical wetlands villages with

historic wooden houses and beautiful, traditional Dutch
stolp farmhouses tranquilly located on vast peat meadows. Its unbelievable that this patch of peace and quiet
can be found within Amsterdams city limits! The village
is marked by a large, blunt tower visible on the horizon.
Ransdorp was home to Geertje Dircx, housekeeper and
later mistress of Rembrandt. One long bicycle route runs
to Holysloot, a picturesque village consisting of one
street, the Dorpsstraat. Along the way you can see all
kinds of farms with traditional Dutch farmhouses called
stolp. Here the houses, barns and sheds are all located
under one high, single roof in the shape of a pyramid.
Make sure to visit the Holysloter Die marina, owned
by the John family, which offers a famous bicycle ferry
to the other side in the direction of Broek in Waterland
(there are daily ferries between 09:00 - 17:00 in July and
August). Take the opportunity to stretch your legs at the
outdoor caf or hire a rowboat, canoe or whisper boat.
The nearby restaurant Het Schoolhuis and John marina
provide information about various tourist destinations.
Last, but not least, is the Volgermeer polder, which
functioned as Amsterdams city dump in the 20th century. Since 2003, the area is part of a massive clean-up
effort that will eventually result in a scenic park area. If
nothing else, make sure to visit the beautiful church here.
Summer 2015
39
Oost
Amsterdam East, or simply Oost (pronounced oast), is an
incredibly diverse district of the Dutch capital that encompasses neighbourhoods that couldnt be more different
from one another. The recently built IJburg island, which is
still under construction, is a largely residential area that is
home to modern architecture, a main street called IJburglaan filled with cafs and shops and a public beach only
minutes from the city centre, while the areas known as
Indische Buurt and Dapperbuurt in the Zeeburg district
are populated by immigrants, students and an increasing
number of affluent Amsterdammers who enjoy its diverse
dining scene. Dapperbuurt hosts a huge market on one of
the few streets in the region not named after an Indonesian
island and is the ideal locale to try a Moroccan cookie or a
real Turkish kebab. The KNSM and Java islands in the Eastern Docklands of the city once supported a huge working
harbour, but are now mostly home to affluent Amsterdammers. Finally, a trip to Oost wouldnt be complete without
a visit to one of the trendy cafs on Linnaeusstraat by the
Oosterpark or the authentic pubs of the Watergraafsmeer
around Middenweg.
ARRIVING IN OOST
Most of Amsterdam East can be easily reached by public
transport. To visit IJburg take tram No.26 from the Central
Station. For Indische Buurt, Dapperbuurt, Flevopark and
Watergraafsmeer take trams No.7 or 14 from Leidseplein.
For KSNM and Java islands take tram No.10 to the last stop.
ACCOMMODATION
EDEN AMSTERDAM MANOR HOTEL
This massive brick building that was once a hospital
where legendary footballer Johan Cruijff was born, was
completely renovated and opened as a luxury hotel by
the Eden Group in the summer of 2010. Accommodation
includes all of the luxurious amenities you would expect
and the layout of the junior suites is often unique as most
hotel rooms dont place large, rotating flat screen TVs at
the foot of their beds.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 89, tel. (+31)
207 00 84 00, www.edenamsterdammanorhotel.com.
125 rooms (deluxe rooms from 100, junior suites from
140). PHAULGBKW hhhh
STAYOKAY AMSTERDAM ZEEBURG
This colossal brick building complete with clock tower was
once a technical school, but since 2007 has been one of
the largest and most modern hostels in Amsterdam. Its
500 beds are spread throughout its doubles, quads and
six-bed dorm rooms all of which include a Spartan interior
with an orange and grey colour scheme, new metal bunk
beds, a sink and a separate shower and toilet. Security isnt
a problem as guests can only access the corridor where
their own room is located, but unfortunately youll have to
stow your important gear in lockers on the ground floor.
QTimorplein 21, tel. (+31) 205 51 31 90, www.stayokay.
com. 500 beds (beds in four-bed dorms from 11, doubles from 32). HAUGBKW
FOOD & DRINK

BADHUIS JAVAPLEIN
Opened as a public bathhouse in 1942, it was finally closed
in 1980s when it apparently became more common for
locals to bathe in their own homes. Today its hip design
attracts fans of good style as well as good food and drink
and its patrons can enjoy lunch and dinner not to mention tasty cocktails and uncommon beers like Texels and
Jopen. The seats by the fireplace are highly coveted in the
winter, while the purple tables and chairs sandwiched between ivy-covered columns on the terrace are always full
on sunny days. QJavaplein 21, tel. (+31) 206 65 12 26,
www.badhuis-javaplein.nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 03:00. (6 - 17). IBW
CAFFE MILO
What this popular caf lacks in size, it more than makes up
for with its style and lively atmosphere. A shiny copper coloured bar with matching lamps is stocked with all the top
shelf liquor you could ask for, which comes in handy on
Wednesday evenings from 18:00 when all mixed drinks are
two for one. Take a seat on plush brown leather benches
and order breakfast food, sandwiches and soups for lunch
or something more substantial like a Black Angus steak
with truffle sauce for dinner. A good selection of beer, a
sunny outdoor terrace and free wi-fi are a few more reasons to drop by.QK-7, Linnaeusstraat 71H, tel. (+31) 204
63 80 27, www.caffemilo.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (7 - 18). ABSW
DE YSBREEKER
This popular space underwent a huge renovation in 2010
and today its difficult to categorise. Its a caf, a cocktail
lounge, a reading room, a bar and a proper restaurant all
in one. You can enjoy fresh oysters on the terrace overlooking the Amstel, sip an espresso inside while surfing
the net or order tasty international cuisine in the evening
with friends. The incredible interior of high vaulted ceilings, stained glass, hardwood floors and huge windows
is impressive and the selection of local Amsterdam brews
in bottles by t IJ and De Prael keeps us coming back for
more.QI-8, Weesperzijde 23, tel. (+31) 204 68 18 08,
www.deysbreeker.nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. (8 - 20). AB
Kids enjoy the water at Java Island in Oost
Oost
GARE DE LEST
The name of this stylish venue might make one wonder if
there used to be a busy passenger terminal here, but alas
this isnt the case. The building, which dates from 1901, was,
however, a stopover for employees of the cattle and goods
trains which arrived here. These days theres little left of
those historic surroundings, but you can have an excellent
meal at Gare de lest. You dont need a menu here as the
3-course surprise menu that changes every day will satisfy
nearly every taste. The beautiful courtyard is yet another
reason to come for lunch or dinner on a sunny day and the
professional staff are the icing on the cake.QCruquiusweg
9, tel. (+31) 204 63 06 20, www.garedelest.nl. Open 17:00
- 23:00. (25 - 30). TALGBKX
POMPSTATION
If youre looking for a hip eatery in Oost, youll find few better places than Pompstation. Although not exactly a traditional steak house, it does offer an extensive menu of meat
dishes including a whole kilos woth of Cote de Boeuf and
a dry aged Hereford from Uruguay. Naturally, these extraordinary slabs of beef come with a considerably higher
price tag, but the unbeatable ambience is also included
in the bill. The Pump Station is in fact a fully functioning
industrial monument dating back to 1920, which is worth
a visit for its unique interior alone.QZeeburgerdijk 53, tel.
(+31) 206 92 28 88, www.pompstation.nu. Open 17:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (19 - 25).
TALGBKW
RESTAURANT DE KAS (THE GREENHOUSE)
When was the last time you dined in a giant refurbished
greenhouse with its very own brick smokestack? Done
that? Was it located in a city park and have its own private summer terrace and hedge garden? If your answer is
still yes then youve probably been to this hip, upmarket
restaurant specialising in rustic Mediterranean cuisine
thats made with only the freshest of ingredients. The
setting in the Frankendael Park is stunning and the food
is excellent, but youll have to trust the chef as the menu
changes every day. Choose a two-course meal at lunch
for 37.50 or a three-course dinner menu for 49.50.QKamerlingh Onneslaan 3, tel. (+31) 204 62 45 62, www.
restaurantdekas.nl. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00,
Sat 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. AB
RESTAURANT MERKELBACH
Feel like dining in a wealthy 17th-century Amsterdammers summer residence, or at least in its coach house?
No problem. Head over to Frankendael Park for wonderful
cuisine and a fabulous patio with views of the surrounding garden. Chef Geert Burema is an avid supporter of the
Slow Food movement so youre guaranteed a quality meal
made with local ingredients, not to mention a unique environment for fine dining. The menu changes every day and
the wine selection is impressive, but make sure to bring a
credit or bank card as cash is not accepted.QMiddenweg
72, tel. (+31) 206 65 08 80, www.huizefrankendael.nl.
Open 08:30 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 08:30 - 18:00. AB
APPELSAP FESTIVAL
Into hip hop, soul and electronic music? Since 2000,
the Appelsap Fresh Music
Festival (Apple Juice Festival) has been entertaining
Amsterdammers with its
impressive line-ups of local
and international talents.
On August 8, 2015 from
12:00 - 23:00 you can expect
hot names like Mobb Deep (USA), Adje, Esta, Skepta,
Sango, Stormzy, Cinnaman, Hannah Faith, SMib and
many more to take to the stage at the Flevo Park in
East Amsterdam. Unfortunately, the once-free festival
now costs 32.50. For more information visit appelsap.
net. Photo courtesy of Appelsap Festival
SIGHSEETING
FLEVO PARK (FLEVOPARK)
What was once the final resting place for many of the citys
Jewish population is now an expansive park and nature
reserve criss-crossed by walking and cycling paths. A few
itinerant old buildings also dot the landscape, but it seems
that nature has reclaimed much of the area, including
most of the old cemetery where roughly 200,000 people
were buried, although some of its headstones are now being restored. A large swimming pool is also located within
the precincts of the park complex, but most people seem
to come here to jog or walk their dogs. Another reason to
come, however, is to visit the fantastic t NEW Diep Distillery (open 15:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00; closed Mon)
located in a former pump house. A playground is also
available, not to mention the Zeeburg campground at the
far end of the park.QBetween Valentijkade, Flevoweg
and Zuiderzeeweg, www.flevopark.nl. Open from sunrise to sunset.
MUSEUM OF THE TROPICS (TROPENMUSEUM)
Housed in a monumental building that is also home to the
Royal Tropical Institute, this museum is a must for students
of anthropology and ethnography and anyone who appreciates non-Western cultures. Unlike many museums
that are simply a catalogue of artefacts from ancient times
and extinct civilisations, the Tropics Museum not only offers examples of antique art, but also household items and
objects used in the daily lives of vibrant, living cultures
throughout the tropical regions of the world from Indian
Bollywood posters to African ads for hair salons. A cafeteria serving food and drink from the regions covered in the
museum including South East Asian beer like Singha and
Chang is also available as well as a museum shop selling
interesting gifts.QK-6, Linnaeusstraat 2, tel. (+31) 205
68 82 00, www.tropenmuseum.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 9, children 6 - 17 years 5, children 5
and under free. AK
Summer 2015
41
West
Amsterdam West is both a residential and commercial district of the city sandwiched between four parks, the Vondel
Park, Rembrandt Park, Erasmus Park and Westerpark, so
youre never far away from a green space for a picnic, some
good cycling or just a relaxing time spent on a patch of
grass. The area around Overtoom is legendary for its restaurants that serve anything from Ethiopian to Iranian cuisine,
not to mention its numerous shops, many of which specialise in cutting-edge interior design items for homes and offices. Eerste Constantijn Huijgensstraat and Bilderdijkstraat
are also home to cosy cafs and pubs, while the Westergasfabriek in the north of the district is a former industrial
estate that has been converted into a creative cultural park
full of galleries, clubs and restaurants - an absolute mustsee in West! For a map of West see p.38.
ARRIVING IN WEST
Amsterdam West is right next to the city centre, so if you
dont mind a brisk walk you can get there on foot from the
Central Station in about 30 - 45 minutes. Of course, not
everyone wants to drag their luggage around town, so just
take tram No.1 to reach Overtoom. For De Clercqstraat and
Admiraal De Ruijterweg take tram No.13. For the Westerpark and Westergasfabriek take bus No.22 from the station
to the last stop Spaarndammerbuurt and then walk the rest
of the way.
ACCOMMODATION
HOTEL VONDEL
This fantastic boutique hotel located in a quiet Museum
district neighbourhood is an excellent choice for anyone
who requires accommodation with cutting-edge design.
A unique blend of new and antique, European and Asian,
Hotel Vondel offers four-star rooms with every imaginable
amenity including flat screen TVs, wireless internet, iPod
speakers and mini-bars as well as individually designed
interiors and private natural stone bathrooms with walkin rainforest showers and/or bathtubs. A private garden is
also at you disposal as well as a trendy lounge and restaurant.QE-9, Vondelstraat 26, tel. (+31) 206 12 01 20,
www.vondelhotels.com. 86 rooms (singles 85 - 120,
doubles 90 - 130, triples 160 - 195, suites 380, executive rooms 115 - 165). PHAGKW hhhh
Hanging out at the trendy Westergasfabriek
FOOD & DRINK

DE ITALIAAN
Our only complaint about De Italiaan would have to be
that its so popular in the evening that a reservation is often necessary. But this is of course a testament to its authentic cuisine and atmosphere. Most of the ingredients
used in its open plan kitchen are imported from organic
farms in Italy and all of its Italian wines can be enjoyed
by the glass, carafe or bottle within its two-storey red
interior or out on the summer terrace. A huge number
of pizzas are prepared in a wood-fired oven, but lots of
other traditional main courses and starters are also available.QE-9, Bosboom Toussaintstraat 29, tel. (+31) 206
83 68 54, www.deitaliaan.com. Open 17:30 - 22:00.
(10 - 20). AB
DOSA
Although this authentic restaurant serves familiar tandoori, biryani and curry dishes, it also claims to be the only
place in town to serve South Indian dosa - a kind of pancake made of rice and lentil flour stuffed with all kinds of
fillings. It also specialises in a wide variety of vegetarian
cuisine, but you can also order plenty of lamb, chicken and
seafood in this elegant space decorated with wood carvings. We particularly enjoyed the mild and creamy Goastyle king prawns.QE-9, Overtoom 146, tel. (+31) 206
16 48 38, www.dosaindianrestaurant.nl. Open 16:00 23:30. (13 - 18). VS
FENAN KLEIN AFRIKA
Klein, or small, could refer to the actual restaurant, which is
undoubtedly on the tiny side, but it could also refer to the
menu which shows a small glimpse of an entire continents
culinary traditions, especially those of East Africa. Order an
Ethiopian St George beer while you ponder the choices in
front of you before inevitably asking the friendly wait staff
to recommend something authentic and tasty. We ended
up getting the most bang for our euro by trying the bebeayenetu, which is a combination of different dishes served on a
giant pancake of sorts. The atmosphere inside was vibrant,
hot and humid, not unlike the stereotypical vision of sub-Saharan Africa. QD-10, Jan Pieter Heijestraat 147, tel. (+31)
204 12 44 42. Open 17:00 - 23:00. B
THE ROUGH KITCHEN
What do you get when an award-winning BBQ chef and
a renowned food journalist combine their forces? The
answer is simple: unbeatable slow-cooked pork from
succulent spare ribs to the best pulled-pork sandwich in
Amsterdam. These two self-confessed carnivores are passionate about pigs and not just the cute bits. Only quality, locally-sourced breeds are used to ensure maximum
flavour and sustainability. If you like your meat grilled,
roasted or smoked, then drop by Foodhallen for some
of the most delicious pork concoctions youll ever taste.
QD-9, Bellamyplein 51 (Foodhallen), tel. (+31) 652 40
76 93/(+31) 655 19 56 73, www.theroughkitchen.nl.
Open 11:00 - 21:00. AS
NIGHTLIFE
GOLLEMS PROEFLOKAAL
This is the last of the iconic Gollem beer bars still in operation, but the bartender did hint that its other former
locations in the city centre would eventually re-open, so
keep your fingers crossed. In the meantime you can take a
10-minute tram ride from the Central Station (tram Nr.1) to
this shrine dedicated to beer. If they dont have your favourite Belgian brew on draught, chances are that Gollem has
it stocked in one of the beer fridges behind the bar. Dutch
snacks can also be had as well as some daily specials written on the blackboard. A calico house cat watches over all
the drinkers from a special sleeping area above the shelves
of glasses.QE-10, Overtoom 160 - 162, tel. (+31) 206 12
94 44, www.cafegollem.nl. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. AB
PLAN B
Walk down a pleasant, brightly lit alleyway off of Overtoom to find what has to be the biggest pool hall and
sports bar combination youve probably ever seen. A
dozen tables are kept in the main hall of what used to be
a church, while less ambitious patrons lay about on comfortable chairs and couches smoking and drinking to their
hearts content. Live sports are shown on a number of TVs
and are also projected onto a huge screen on the far wall.
One snooker table is also available and eight-ball competitions are held on Monday nights.QE-10, Overtoom 209,
tel. (+31) 208 45 62 21, www.planbovertoom.nl. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Wed 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat
14:00 - 03:00. AX
WESTERUNIE
The Westergasfabriek isnt your standard Amsterdam club
located near another touristy square. Located next to the
green Westerpark just outside the city centre, this massive culture and entertainment complex spans several
former factories from the 19th century, with multi-floored
industrial spaces of over 2500 square metres. You can
find a party for every audience including popular music
festivals such as Pitch (in July), house fests like Straf-werk
and queer-friendly Funhouse parties. Try not to get lost
in the maze that is the WesterUnie building. The cool
people who hang out here would enjoy that too much.
QC-4, Klnnenplein 4 - 6, tel. (+31) 206 84 84 96, www.
westerunie.nl. AB
Kids on Mercatorplein in West
SIGHTSEEING
HET SCHIP MUSEUM
One of the crowning achievements of Amsterdam School
architecture, this unusual building was erected in 1919 as
proof that affordable working-class housing could not
only be functional, but stylish. The historic edifice is still
inhabited today, so you have to take a guided tour of the
museum, which begins at a former post office. Guides will
lead you around the building pointing out interesting features like the bay window that looks like a cigar, little windmills on the faade that symbolise the rural workers who
came to work in the citys factories and the iconic tower,
which is meant to be a beacon of socialism. You can also
view an apartment that looks as it did in the early 20th
century.QC-4, Spaarndammerplantsoen 140, tel. (+31)
204 75 09 24, www.hetschip.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: adults 7.50. A
WESTERPARK
If you keep following the popular Haarlemmerdijk shopping street in the Jordaan past the Haarlemmerplein youll
eventually run into Westerpark, which is flanked by a canal
on one side and train tracks and housing estates on the
other. On one end youll find a water feature, a childrens
playground and lots of walking and bike paths, while the
far side is a vast open space popular with picnickers and
kids honing their football skills. Just beyond the park is the
Westergafabriek, a former industrial zone that has been
reclaimed by cafs, clubs and galleries.QC-4, Between
Haarlemmerweg and Zaanstraat.
SHOPPING
BRITISH GENERAL STORES
If you have a hankering for a Curly Wurly or some good
old PG Tips tea, then pay a visit to British General Stores.
Owner Lin stocks a massive range of genuine British goodies including HP sauce, Heinz baked beans and great English sausages.QE-9, Eerste Constantijn Huygensstraat
94, tel. (+31) 206 83 61 91, www.britishstore.nl. Open
10:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
DESIGN OVERTOOM
Design Overtoom sells funky and stylish lamps, mugs,
furniture and the like, but remember that hip interior
design doesnt come cheap.QD-10, Overtoom 371, tel.
(+31) 206 89 81 50, www.designovertoom.com. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. A
Zuid
Amsterdam Zuid, or South, is perhaps best known for its
large concentration of superb museums, which is the reason so many hotels are also located here. It will come as
no surprise then that the citys very own Rodeo Drive, P.C.
Hooftstraat, which is occupied by brands such as Bulgari,
Vuiton and Chanel, is surrounded by 4- and 5-star accommodation in Zuid. Just east of the so-called Museum
Quarter youll find the hip De Pijp district full of bohemian
cafs, fun bars and unique shops. Its also home to the Albert Cuyp Market, packed with stalls selling pretty much
anything. Just take tram No.2 or 5 to reach the heart of the
district.
FOOD & DRINK
ACCOMMODATION
BAZAR
Located in a huge space that was once a church in the
middle of Amsterdams most famous street market, Bazar offers a huge menu of delicious halal Turkish, Middle
Eastern and North African dishes too numerous to mention here. Suffice it to say, that you can get anything from
kebabs, falafel and hummus to exotic seafood and lots of
cuisine with tangy harissa sauce. Dine under enormous
Moroccan-style lamps on the second floor balcony or below multicoloured flashing Christmas lights on the ground
floor. The food is refreshingly affordable and the atmosphere is friendly and casual. QH-8, Albert Cuypstraat
182, tel. (+31) 206 75 05 44, www.bazaramsterdam.
com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 12). A
EASYHOTEL AMSTERDAM F.BOLSTRAAT

The cheap, no frills airline EasyJet has also branched out
into cruise ships and even hotels, which is desperately
needed in Amsterdam where room prices are often ridiculously and undeservedly expensive. Located in the
bohemian De Pijp district of Amsterdam South, this hotel
provides tiny rooms with WC and a glass shower in the
room, so if you have a roommate he/she better not be shy.
Not unlike the airline, you have to pay for any extra amenities such as TV, wireless internet access and housekeeping
services.QH-10, Van Ostadestraat 97, danny.vanspall@
amsterdamfb.easyhotel.com, www.easyhotel.com. 80
rooms (doubles from 59). PZJAULGW
NL-HOTEL MUSEUMPLEIN
This is the NL groups second hotel in Amsterdam and
not unlike the first, this one also boasts unique interior
design, which was created by Edward van Vliet. Although
the location on Nassaukade has a much more Asian feel
to it, the NL-Hotel Museumplein has placed an emphasis on its Dutch roots. All of its three-star rooms include
flat screen TVs, free wi-fi, mini-bars, iPhone docking stations, Nespresso machines and stylish private bathrooms.
No carpeting is used in the hotel and the mattresses and
pillows are hypoallergenic, so people with allergies need
not worry about their health when staying here.QG-10,
Frans van Mierisstraat 34, tel. (+31) 206 79 89 95, www.
nl-hotel.com. 17 rooms (singles from 85, doubles from
95). PZAGW hhh
Relax in between museums on Museumplein
M.Zaprauskis
BARRA
This modern Iberian restaurant has an industrial look with
concrete floors and black and white tiles, but the cuisine is
more traditional, especially the rosemary potatoes that are
slowly cooked below the chicken grill to soak up some extra flavour. A variety of wines are also available and you can
order lots of small Spanish and Portuguese dishes to share
with friends and family.QH-9, Eerste Sweelinckstraat 23,
tel. (+31) 207 55 54 83, barra.nu. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20 - 25). UBK
SCANDINAVIAN EMBASSY
The Scandinavian Embassy is a hip coffee house on the
edge of the picturesque Sarphatipark. Although its evident that the friendly Swedish owners appreciate minimalist design, its the coffee that keeps a constant flow
of caffeine aficionados coming back and that comes as
no surprise as SE recently won prestigious international
awards for its hand-roasted coffees. A small selection of
Scandinavian dishes including strong Danish cheeses,
roasted lamb and even bear sausages are all served here
in an attractive way. If youd appreciate something a bit
healthier give the oatmeal porridge a try, which is topped
with Swedish caviar and garlic herring. It really is tastier
than it sounds.QH-10, Sarphatipark 34, tel. (+31) 619
51 81 99, www.scandinavianembassy.nl. Open 08:00 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. TJNGKSW
SPANG MAKANDRA
When we walked through the door of this ethnic eatery
we noticed that most of the limited seating was occupied
by Surinamese immigrants giving us a clear indication that
we had come to right place for authentic cuisine. Ignore
the cheesy illuminated paintings on the walls of blue
waters and palm trees and get stuck into a roti (meat and
sauce with a huge pancake), chow mein noodles and nasi
(baked rice). In short, this is a great local venue to eat large
portions of tasty Surinamese cuisine, but dont forget to
bring cash.QG-10, Gerard Doustraat 39, tel. (+31) 206
70 50 81, www.spangmakandra.nl. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. S
Zuid
THE BUTCHER
De Pijp is one of Amsterdams most bohemian neighbourhoods. Its home to the amazing Albert Cuyp Market and,
since 2012, one of the best burgers in town. The Butcher
cooks all of its Aberdeen Angus beef burgers to order in
the open-plan kitchen for just under 10, but if youre not
in the mood for something that once mooed, you can order lamb, chicken and veggie burgers as well as the codfather. We personally prefer the Benedict burger, which is
the perfect way to start the day. You can also add extras
like blue cheese, jalapenos, bacon and a number of sauces
in this trendy space designed by an award-winning architectural firm.QH-10, Albert Cuypstraat 129, tel. (+31)
204 70 78 75, www.the-butcher.com. Open 11:00 01:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. Also at: Bellamyplein
51 (West). JAKS
THE OYSTER CLUB
Located in the historic stadium that hosted the 1928
Olympic Games as well as its fair share of Ajax football
matches, The Oyster Club, not surprisingly, specialises in
fresh seafood, sushi and, of course, oysters. The restaurant
is incredibly spacious and offers stylish dcor as well as a
huge outdoor terrace when the weather cooperates. Its
also a local hotspot on weekend nights when affluent Amsterdammers drop by for DJs and cocktails.QOlympisch
Stadion 35, tel. (+31) 205 70 84 00, www.theoysterclub.
nl. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (30 - 50). ALBW
NIGHTLIFE
CAF BERKHOUT
The floors are worn, yet sturdy, which is more than you
can say for the shabby tables and chairs or the ceiling that
is stained with the ghosts of parties past. So why bother
writing about a brown bar that appears to have seen better
days? If youve ever been to the Heineken Experience youll
realise that this is the closest pub to one of Amsterdams best
attractions and therefore has no trouble enticing patrons
with a Heineken brew. Dutch snacks and soups are also
available as well as some seats outside.QG-8, Stadhouderskade 77, tel. (+31) 204 20 96 18, www.cafeberkhout.nl.
Open 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. AB
TWENTY THIRD BAR
This salubrious cocktail bar on the 23rd floor of the fivestar Hotel Okura not only offers fantastic evening views of
the city, but its also located right next to Ciel Bleu, a restaurant with two Michelin stars from which you can order
some delicious starters like fresh oysters. Sit on sumptuous
leather couches while you sip incredible mixed drinks or
vintage wines chosen by its renowned sommelier. Its also
known for its mojitos, but dont tell the bartenders you
heard it from us. They might prefer to make something
more challenging. Although not required, a jacket and
tie might be a good idea if you want to fit in.QFerdinand
Bolstraat 333 (Hotel Okura - 23rd floor), tel. (+31) 206 78
71 11, www.okura.nl/en/culinary/#/Bars. Open 18:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. A
Summer 2015
45
Zuid
SIGHTSEEING
ALBERT CUYP MARKET (ALBERT CUYPMARKT)
This vibrant daily market located in the bohemian De Pijp
district is chock full of stands selling clothing, jewellery,
fresh seafood like crab and lobster, flowers, lingerie, souvenirs, fresh fruit, hand bags, shoes, cheese and many more
things you cant do without as wells as plenty of food stalls.
QH-9, Albert Cuypstraat, www.albertcuypmarkt.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
COSTER DIAMONDS
Coster Diamonds is one of the oldest diamond factories in
the world and its professional craftsmen have been cutting and polishing expensive jewels since Moses Coster
opened his first shop on Waterlooplein in 1840. Today
you can take a free tour of the factoryand learn nearly everything about diamonds and discover helpful tips about
how the four Cs (carat, colour, clarity and cut) influence
the price of each gem. You can also watch men practicing
their trade, learn how to spot fake diamonds and view replicas of famous gems such as the Koh-I-Noor which was
re-cut by Coster at the request of Queen Victoria. After a
brief tour youll be led upstairs to a diamond showroom
where the owners hope youll be tempted to buy a diamond of your own.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 2 - 6, tel.
(+31) 203 05 55 55, www.costerdiamonds.com. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission: free.
SHOPPING
DE WINKEL VAN NIJNTJE (MIFFY SHOP)
The famous bunny from Dick Brunas best selling childrens books is available here in books and cards, plates
and toys and loads of other souvenirs. Follow H-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat south until it it turns into Scheldestraat.
QScheldestraat 61, tel. (+31) 206 64 80 54, www.
dewinkelvannijntje.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TALV
DUIKELMAN
If you love to cook and relish using new gadgets then drop
by Duikelmans for both expensive and affordable items
from pots and pans to oyster knives and meat grinders.
QH-10, Ferdinand Bolstraat 66-68, tel. (+31) 206 71 22
30, www.duikelman.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 09:30 17:00. Closed Sun. A
DIAMANT MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

Start your tour of the museum with a film that illustrates
how diamonds are formed and how Europeans began
to covet them and create some of the largest mining
operations in the world. Move on to the exhibits that
describe the polishing and cutting process, displays of
replicas of famous jewels and explanations of the illegal trade in blood diamonds. You can also take a digital
photo of yourself wearing a diamond encrusted crown
which you can e-mail to friends and finish with the museums most prized possession the Coster Skull, which
is a truly bizarre gorilla skull covered in 17,000 small diamonds. A museum shop and caf are also available.QF10, Paulus Potterstraat 8, tel. (+31) 203 05 53 00, www.
diamantmuseumamsterdam.nl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission: adults 7.50, children 13 - 18 years 5, children 12 and under free. A
RECORD MANIA
Record Mania has a great collection of vinyl from old blues
and punk records to soul and funk.QG-9, Ferdinand Bolstraat 30, tel. (+31) 206 20 99 12, www.recordmania.nl.
Open 12:00 - 18:00.
ZUIDERMRKT
Although its one of the smallest food markets in town, its
18 stands sell lots of tasty, wholesome, organic produce.
QJohannes Verhulstraat and Jacob Obrechtplein,
www.zuidermrkt.nl. TB
See works by Hollands most famous son at the Van Gogh Museum
Zuid
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
Although this tasty brew, which is distributed in over 170
countries around the globe isnt produced on the premises, you can take a tour and learn about the companys
evolution from its founding in 1864 in Amsterdam to its
current status as a multinational brand. Youll reach the
climax of the tour where you can enjoy two cold beers
with dozens of other Heineken fans. Exit the experience
via the Heineken shop where you can get pretty much
anything with the Heineken logo on it. QG-9, Stadhouderskade 78, tel. (+31) 205 23 92 22, www.heineken.com/
experience. Open 11:00 - 19:30 (last tour at 17:30). Admission: 16 - 18, children 12.50, under 12 free. AU
HOUSE OF BOLS EXPERIENCE
Founded in Amsterdam in 1575, the House of Bols is one
the worlds oldest spirits makers, not to mention one of
the oldest firms on record. Its renowned jenever recipe
dates back to as early as 1664 and was introduced to the
British roughly 25 years later where it was modified to English tastes and produced locally as gin. The award-winning
Genever Experience showcases the roughly 40 liqueurs it
sells in 110 countries around the world as well as the wide
varieties of jenevers it produces.QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 14, tel. (+31) 205 70 85 75, www.houseofbols.nl.
Open 12:00 - 17:30, Fri 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 19:00.
Admission: 14.50. A
RIJKSMUSEUM
This colossal building occupies nearly an entire city block
and is finally open to the public again after years of renovations. View ancient weapons, gold and silver artefacts
and of course an incredible collection of the nations
best old masters including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Bol and
Steen. Scenes depict everything from biblical tales and
windmilled landscapes to portraits and illustrations of
17th-century family life, not to mention exotic scenes from
Hollands far flung Golden Age colonies. Some of the museums most famous paintings are also described in detail in laminated information cards, so you can take your
time and discover interesting facts about each of these
canvases. QF-9, Museumplein/Jan Luijkenstraat 1, tel.
(+31) 206 74 70 47, www.rijksmuseum.com. Open 09:00
- 17:00. Admission: adults 17.50, under 18 free.
SARPHATIPARK
Samuel Sarphati was a prominent 19th-century doctor,
social reformer and a proud member of the Amsterdam
Jewish community. He dreamed of creating affordable
housing for the working class of the city and improved
sanitation conditions by implementing a system of garbage collection. He also made plans for the park that now
bears his name although it was only completed roughly
20 years after his death. Today its a popular place for sunbathers, picnickers and families with children and many
youngsters camp out near the monument to the famous
doctor thats surrounded by a fountain and lots of flowers.
QH-9, Between Ceintuurbaan, Eerste van der Helstraat
and Eerste Sweelinckstraat.
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
Hollands most important museum for modern and contemporary art was in a coma for an unexpected eight years,
but is now open to the public. The addition of a new building has doubled the size of the museum and the Stedelijk is
now the proud owner of the largest exhibition space in Holland. It has no windows, which makes this 1100m2 area also
suitable for displaying digital and video art. The interior of
the old and new buildings have been completely integrated, so youll hardly notice where the 100-year-old edifice
ends and the modern one begins.QF-10, Museumplein
10, tel. (+31) 205 73 29 11, www.stedelijk.nl. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 15 - 20, children 17 and under free. AK
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
The museums vast collection includes roughly 200 paintings, 500 drawings and 750 letters that comprise most
of the works produced by the troubled artist in his short
10-year career. Those familiar with only his later works
will no doubt be surprised to see the dark greys, browns
and blues used in Van Goghs earliest still lifes. The vibrant
paintings for which he is now so renowned only appeared
later during his time in Paris when he discovered colour.
The museum also displays a varied collection of works by
such icons of Impressionism as Monet, Manet, Gauguin
and Czanne. QF-10, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. (+31)
205 70 52 00, www.vangoghmuseum.com. Open 09:00
- 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 22:00. Admission: adults 17, children
17 and under free. AUKW
Summer 2015
47
Zuidoost
Zuidoost is Amsterdams most multicultural district. More
than 130 nationalities live here and these diverse cultural
backgrounds are reflected in its many festivals with foreign
roots like the Summer Festival, which is spread across five
weekends in July and August. And despite its many modern skyscrapers, Zuidoost, or de Bijlmer as the locals call it,
can often feel like a small village. It boasts several parks and
green spaces including the Gaasper Park, the crown jewel of
them all. Its also a fairly new area, its first houses having been
built as recent as 1968. Recent development around Ajaxs
stadium, the Amsterdam Arena, has led to a cultural renaissance, not to mention an economic boom. Amsterdams biggest shopping centres and megastores are almost all located
here and the Heineken Music Hall and the brand new Ziggo
Dome are both state of the art concert halls attracting world
renowned talent from around the globe. Take in a concert,
spend the day shopping or just walk around and experience
the diversity of this vibrant area that most tourists never see.
ARRIVING IN ZUIDOOST
Zuidoost can be easily reached by metro, train or bus. The
easiest way to get here is to take a 20-minute metro ride
from the Central Station. Yellow line 54 begins at the Central Station and ends at Gein, while green line 50 passes the
western part of the city and has the same destination. Red
line 53 follows the yellow line until Van der Madeweg and
then travels east until it reaches the Gaasperplas.
HOTELS
HAMPTON BY HILTON AMSTERDAM ARENA
BOULEVARD
If youre planning on attending a concert or a football
match in Zuidoosts entertainment district, then look no
further than this modern hotel located right next to the
Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena train and metro stations and
only a short walk from the Ziggo Dome and Heineken Music Hall. All of its three-star rooms are tastefully decorated
and include flat screen TVs, free wireless internet access,
coffee/tea sets, ironing boards, a writing desk and private
bathrooms. Naturally, the city centre is only a 10-minute
train ride away.QV-1, Hoekenrode 1, tel. (+31) 208 20 32
00, hampton.hilton.com/Amsterdam. 254 rooms (doubles/twin from 135). PAUFW
Zuidoosts Gaasper Park in full bloom
FOOD & DRINK

BAGELS & BEANS
This huge chain of Dutch bagel joints has taken the Netherlands by storm and as much as wed like to poke fun at
this large food franchise we have to admit that, although
the bagels here wont top the warm New York bagels of
our youth, theyre probably the best weve had on this
continent. Naturally, a wide choice of coffee, tea and juice
is also available as well as free wi-fi, so if youre in the
area then drop by, power up your iPad and enjoy a tasty
tuna melt bagel or something else from its large menu.
QV-1, Bijlmerplein 561 B, tel. (+31) 203 65 33 81, www.
bagelsbeans.nl. Open 08:02 - 18:03, Sat 09:01 - 17:32,
Sun 09:32 - 17:32. (4 - 7). ASW
ICHI-E
Liberally translated, the Japanese saying Ichi-Go Ichi-E
means to enjoy the moment, which isnt really hard to
do in this trendy, modern place. Whatever section you
choose, the ground floor with its rotating bar, the first
floor with its attractive tables or the top floor with the
view and pleasant outdoor terrace, youre guaranteed
to have a great experience. The dcor is ultra trendy
and although the dishes are slightly overpriced and
the staff are still in nappies, the food is quite good. The
real Japanese chefs (no foreign substitutes here) turn
every sashimi and sushi dish into a small feast for the
senses.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 175, tel. (+31) 206 91
02 31, www.ichi-e.nl. Open 11:30 - 22:00. (13 - 18).
PTAULGBKSW
MERAM RESTAURANT
The friendly staffs genuine Amsterdam accent might give
you the wrong impression at first, but its definitely a Turkish lifestyle that prevails at Merams. Turkish soaps on TV
and a cup of super sweet Turkish tea are the next hints that
youve arrived at the Bosporus. Divided over two floors,
you can enjoy exotic Eurasian dishes in a stylish atmosphere full of lounge chairs. If youre looking for something
cheaper, theres an authentic kebab takeaway restaurant
on the other side of the building.QV-1, Bijlmerdreef 1181,
tel. (+31) 204 16 10 90, www.restaurantmeram.nl. Also
at Pretoriusstraat 22 - 24. PTLGBKW
STARBUCKS
Four stools, six tables, a leather couch and a simple seating
area: thats all the dcor this Starbucks has to offer. And
of course a lot of good coffee. However, if youd like to
sit outside, thats possible as well in this stations refreshment room. Its also a good place for people not addicted
to caffeine, as it has a wide selection of freshly squeezed
smoothies and spicy drinks like chai tea. If youre simply
looking for a snack, you could always gorge on some of
the many cakes and pastries in the display cases, but you
should avoid the seats near the front door on cold days,
unless youre Inuit.QU/V-1, Arena Boulevard 618, www.
starbucks.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00. TAULBSW
Zuidoost
SIGHTSEEING
DIEMER FOREST (DIEMERBOS)
The recently created Diemer Forest is sandwiched between Amsterdam and the suburb of Diemen. When they
started planting this forest in the early 1990s, hidden old
tree trunks revealed to scientists that this polder must
have been a forest many years ago as well. We will never
know if the ancient ancestors of the Dutch enjoyed picnics at the tables here, or took leisurely strolls, bike rides,
horse rides and walks through the swamp, but you can
today!QW-1, Muiderstraatweg. T6U
GAASPER PARK (GAASPERPARK)
This spacious park occupies the northern shore of Lake
Gaasperplas, a man-made body of water that was created
when the land was excavated to provide sand and earth
for the new building projects in the area. The park came
into being in the late 1970s and early 1980s. A large campground is also available in the park, but most people come
here to go swimming and windsurfing or to rent a kayak
for a few hours of fun on the water.QV/W-1, Between
Loosdrechtdreef and Provincialeweg.
PATH ARENA
There are currently four IMAX cinemas in the Netherlands
including this one in Amsterdam. In case youve been in a
coma for the past 15 years, IMAX is a special movie format
designed to display films on a much larger screen (22 x
16m) than at typical theatres. The chairs and the screen
have also been adjusted for digital films so you basically
feel like youre taking part in all the action. This is cinema
as it was intended!QU-1, ArenA boulevard 600, tel. 09 00
14 58, www.pathe.nl.
THE PISSERS OF AMSTERDAM
There are always six guys urinating in public under the
Groesbeekdreef. Usually this would translate into a 75
fine for the perpetrators, but they get away with it because theyre statues. The Pissers of Amsterdam, a free
translation of this controversial work of art, have been taking a perpetual leak since 2010. The life-size persons, selfportraits of the creator, are the brainchild of Belgian artist
Pascale Tayou.QV-1, Groesbeekdreef.
WORLD OF AJAX TOURS (AMSTERDAM ARENA)
This is the next best thing to seeing an actual Ajax match.
Even if youre not a fan, its still a brilliant feeling to set
foot in the ArenA, even when its empty. At full capacity,
53,052 supporters sing, scream and yell from their brightly
coloured seats. About an hour later youre back where
you started, and the tour predictably ends at the club
shop where you can express your newly acquired love for
Ajax by purchasing lots of red and white souvenirs.QU-1,
ArenA Boulevard 1, tel. (+31) 203 11 13 36. Open 11:00 16:30 (except on event days). Admission: adults 14.50,
children 5 - 12 years 9.50. Take metro line 54 from the
Central Station to the Amsterdam Bijlmer Arena stop
and then follow signs to Main Entrance E.
KWAKU FESTIVAL
Given its multicultural nature, its not surprising that
Zuidoost hosts the citys
premiere ethnic event,
which many locals know
by its former name - the
Kwakoe Festival. For four
weekends in a row, the Nelson Mandelapark will host
a huge free party that will
include music concerts, dance performances and even
football matches, which have become the highlight of
the event. Naturally, loads of stalls will sell exotic foods
from around the globe, so you can spend an entire
month taking a culinary journey across the world experiencing what Zuidoosts 130 nationalities call home
cooking. The festival will take place every weekend beginning on July 18 and ending on August 9. For more
information visit www.kwakufestival.nl. Photo courtesy
of Kwaku Festival
SHOPPING
AMSTERDAMSE POORT
Over 230 shops are concentrated in this huge open-air
shopping centre. Partly covered, partly open you can
buy anything here from shoes and home furnishings to
childrens clothing or perhaps a new bike. A large number of food options are alsohoused in this massive mall.
QBijlmerplein, www.amsterdamsepoort.nl. Open
09:30 - 18:00, Mon 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. UL
DECATHLON ARENA
In 1976 this company was established as a hypermarket for
sports gear. Enormous halls, plenty of parking spaces and a
large selection of products for reasonable prices is what you
get today. Discover an avalanche of new products including
3,500 innovations per year from fishing lures for anglers to
bikes, tents and skis.QU-1, Arena Boulevard 101, tel. (+31)
205 65 91 20, www.decathlon.nl. Open 09:30 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri 09:30 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. TAL
IKEA
This Scandinavian phenomenon needs no introduction.
Find all the beds, baths, sofas, furniture and Swedish meatballs you crave at its Amsterdam location in Zuidoost.QU/
V-2, Hullenbergweg 2, tel. (+31) 90 02 35 45 32, www.
ikea.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AS
MARKT AMSTERDAMSE POORT
Every Monday and Thursday this giant square is filled to
the rafters with market stalls from 09:00 - 18:00.QAnton
de Komplein. Open Mon, Thu 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue,
Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. TL
Summer 2015
49
Gay Amsterdam
Its hard to imagine a more gay and lesbian friendly travel
destination than Amsterdam. In 2001, the Netherlands became the first country in the world to officially recognise
same-sex marriages. With four distinctive gay districts in
the city centre, rainbow flags on nearly every other street
and the annual Gay Pride celebration, Amsterdam is the
place to be for gays worldwide. Several areas form what
can be dubbed Amsterdams Gay Village. All areas are within easy walking distance of one another. The prime area
is the Reguliersdwarsstraat (Gay Main Street) and prime
hunting ground for upmarket clubs and trendy restaurants.
Other areas include the Kerkstraat (near Leidsestraat) with
two gay hotels (The Golden Bear and Amistad) as well as
a kinky cruise club, Warmoesstraat in the Red Light district
(with cruise bars, a leather scene and a cinema) and the
Zeedijk (home to some cosy local cafs).
GAY INFORMATION
GAY TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE (GAYTIC)
This place offers lots of information about everything
youd like or need to know about the gay scene in Amsterdam from night clubs and parties to local shops and
publications. You can also buy stuff at its Gays&Gadgets
shop.QA-1, Spuistraat 44, tel. (+31) 203 30 14 61, www.
gaytic.nl. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
PINK POINT & HOMOMONUMENT (GAY INFO
CENTRE)
Pink Point provides general information about gay and
lesbian Amsterdam. Its staffed by volunteers who can provide all kinds of information about gay organisations and
about gay life in general in the Dutch capital and they also
sell some of the coolest gay souvenirs in the country. The
nearby Monument to Homosexuals or Homomonument
was designed in 1987 by artist Karin Daan to inspire and
support lesbians and gays in their struggle against discrimination. It is also a memorial to gay men and women who
were oppressed and persecuted because of their lifestyles
and beliefs. The pink triangle was the symbol homosexuals were forced to wear by the Nazis. Sadly one of the three
granite triangles is located right next to a public urinal. Talk
about discrimination!QE-5, Westermarkt, tel. (+31) 20 428
10 70, www.pinkpoint.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00. J6
Colourful ladies at the Pink Point Gay Info Centre on Westermarkt
NIGHTLIFE
Heres a small selection of our favourite gay hangouts.
CAFE LELLEBEL
Just around the corner from busy Rembrandtplein youll
find an alternative to the squares legendary nightlife,
which mostly consists of tourist pubs, techno clubs and
meat markets. Amsterdams only drag show bar is a cosy
haunt that resembles a brown bar rather than a cutting
edge design lounge so popular with the gay scene these
days. Transvestites, transgenders, lesbians and gays have
enjoyed its unique atmosphere since 1997 and it always
makes a good showing at the gay canal boat parade each
year. Its also the place to go for karaoke every Tuesday
night.QG-7, Utrechtsestraat 4, tel. (+31) 204 27 51 39,
www.lellebel.nl. Open 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 03:00. A
CLUB CHURCH
This is Amsterdams ultimate cruising club with two floors of
play and dance areas that offer changing theme parties and
DJs every night. Free condoms throughout the venue and
lots of more serious kinky toys are available for use including
slings, private cabins and even a Saint Andrews cross, which
has nothing to do with heraldry and everything to do with
bondage. Yep, you can get it as wild or rough as youd like
it, but its probably not the best place to have your first gay
experience and definitely not an appropriate venue to have
an after-work drink with your straight business colleagues.
QF-7, Kerkstraat 52, www.clubchurch.nl. Open Tue, Wed
20:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun
16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon. PJX
NYX
Where one falls, another rises from its ashes. The notorious
Club Exit died an early death and now theres a new kid
in town: NYX. The numerous glow-in-the-dark stairs, the
techno blasts and live music on different levels as well as
the wood, rusty metal and concrete graffiti-clad walls of
this gay-friendly venue put one in mind of a Berlin squat,
which is a refreshing deviation from most of Amsterdams polished hotspots. Visit NYX for an adventure and
to mingle with the clientele, which is neither exclusively
gay or straight, but beware of stealthy and not-so-stealthy
looks.QG-8, Reguliersdwarsstraat 42, www.clubnyx.nl.
Open Thu 23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. A
PRIK
Prik, a relaxed and cosy caf near Dam Square, is the ideal
place to meet your friends, or even your grandmother,
and have a drink to start the night off. Prosecco on tap,
sexy cocktails, tasty finger food a live DJ and a good
vibe will probably make you linger around longer than
you might have planned. It was voted several times as
the best gay bar in town and we can certainly see why.
Prik rocks!QA-2, Spuistraat 109, tel. (+31) 203 20 00 02,
www.prikamsterdam.nl. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. PJAGB
Gay Amsterdam
REALITY
Reality is a tropical-style ethnic bar. Customers tend to hail
from exotic locales such as Suriname, the Carribbean and
other hot destinations, so its a bit alternative compared to
the other places on Gay Main Street. Great music like salsa,
merengue and calypso is also available for those who are
fed up with the regular gay bubblegum. This might also
be the place to see if the stereotypes about dark-skinned
men and their toys are just a myth.QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 129, tel. (+31) 206 39 30 12, www.barreality.
freehomepage.com. Open 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00
- 04:00. PJNG
TABOO
This bar boasts two big screens showing cheesy music videos, hot bartenders who are actually friendly
and attentive and a comfy smoking room on the first
floor which seems to be a winning combination especially on a street that needed a breath of fresh air.
Two happy hours a day (from 18:00 - 19:00 and 24:00 01:00) has also helped to build up a steady and happy
clientile. Sundays offer a double happy hour from
18:00 until 20:00!QB-3, Reguliersdwarsstraat 45, tel.
(+31) 207 75 39 63, www.taboobar.nl. Open 18:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00.
PJNGBX
VIVELAVIE
An institution in the Amsterdam gay-scene, this lesbian
bar has been around for more than 30 years and is still
alive and kicking! It has an unpretentious and cosy atmosphere with old Hollywood posters on the wall. Ladies meet their friends, talk, read, eat, sip their cocktails
and dance in the late hours in this Art Deco-style space.
The menu offers tapas, tosties and other finger food
and the music varies from lounge and gay classics to
upbeat and everything in between. Even gay men like
it here!QB-3, Amstelstraat 7, tel. (+31) 206 24 01 14,
www.vivelavie.net. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 04:00. PJNGBX
SAUNAS
THERMOS SAUNA
One of the biggest gay saunas in Europe, Thermos is a
legendary gay Amsterdam institution. Tourists, chubbies,
students and the occasional geriatric all mix in the labyrinth upstairs and the wet compartments on ground floor
that include a swimming pool, dry sauna, wet sauna and
whirlpool. The dcor is still very much stuck in the 1970s
and about as cosy as the interior of a nuclear power plant,
but most men seem to focus on other things, which explains the cruisy atmosphere, especially at the weekend.
An attached hair salon and beauty parlour is also available
for those in need and free condoms can be found at the
bar.QE-7, Raamstraat 33, tel. (+31) 206 23 91 58, office@
thermos.nl, www.thermos.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission: under 21 years 10, 22 - 25 years 14, and 26
and over 19. PJFNBKXC
BET VAN BEERENS CAF

Although Amsterdam is now one of the most gayfriendly cities in the world, it wasnt always such a pillar
of tolerance. But one woman had an incredible influence on the Dutch capital and its residents. Bet van
Beeren was born in 1902 and spent her childhood in
the Jordaan district of Amsterdam, before opening her
legendary bar t Mandje, or The Basket, on the Zeedijk
in 1927.
Although the establishment was hardly advertised as a gay bar, it was a place where anyone - gay,
straight, bi or otherwise - could have a drink, provided
they behaved themselves. In those days the police
could revoke a bars license for promoting what we
today would call a gay lifestyle, so Bet kept a close
watch on her patrons making sure there werent any
obvious displays of affection between same-sex couples with perhaps the exception of Queens Day (now
Kings Day) a tradition that began after WWII. On this
magical day pretty much anything was possible and t
Mandje gained a reputation as the ultimate place to
celebrate this Dutch holiday. That said, Bet usually took
an interest in her patrons and if she observed anyone
misbehaving, she would penalise them by cutting off
an article of clothing with a butchers knife, hence all of
the ties nailed to the ceiling.
As time passed, Bet became one of the chief attractions of her bar and thats hardly surprising given her
appearance and demeanour. An openly gay woman
who drank like a fish and smoked like chimney, she was
also known for her risqu wardrobe, which included a
leather motorcycle jacket. This naturally raised a few
eyebrows in her time. In the end, it was the drink that
eventually claimed her life. It was not uncommon for
her to knock back dozens of glasses of beer during a
typical day at the bar, but this was simply part of her
lifestyle and she enjoyed herself immensely while gaining the respect of her patrons and neighbours who
often called her the Queen of the Zeedijk. When she
passed away in 1967, she was laid out on the billiard table of the bar where 30,000 people paid their respects
to her over the course of two days.
The bar finally closed its doors in 1983, but Bets
niece, Diana van Laar, re-opened the bar with the help
of her husband in 2008. Caf t Mandje B-1, Zeedijk
63, tel. (+31) 206 22 53 75, www.cafetmandje.nl.
Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 15:00 03:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.
Summer 2015
51
Coffeeshops
Whether you smoke the herb or not, coffeeshops in Amsterdam are a tourist attraction by themselves. Choose
the right one and itll be an experience youll never forget.
Choose the wrong one and you youll probably forget that
you were in Amsterdam altogether. There are many different types of coffeeshops, for different kinds of people.
Some look more like nightclubs, others like Tibetan monasteries (once youre stoned) and others like super-modern
cafs. And in the summer, many have outside seating,
sometimes near the canal.
Coffeeshops in Amsterdam have a particularly long
history (Mellow Yellow was the first one in 1973), even
during times of cannabis prohibition. The idea has been
imitated across much of Europe, as well as the Americas,
proof enough that the system works (for the evil criminal
gangs anyway).
Given the citys status as a major shipping hub and its
maze of canals, its not hard to imagine how drug trafficking in this city was an attractive option. Coffeeshops could
easily be supplied straight from shipping containers via the
many canals on small boats, and even emptied in the same
manner should the authorities decide to pay a visit. Today,
they are mostly supplied by car, a much less romantic option.
After extensive wandering around, a list of dozens of
coffeeshops not to be missed during your stay is provided
here. They are selected from across the city, so that youre
never at any point far away from one of these exceptional
Dutch institutions.
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SYMBOL KEY
O Casino
T Child-friendly

V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outside seating
X Smoking section
S Takeaway
W Wifi
COFFEESHOPS
Although the Netherlands was once known as a safe
haven for people who enjoy the herb, conservative politics and a national law have sent many a foreign toker
looking for less turbulent shores to have a joint. Officially the law states that only residents of Holland may
buy and smoke soft drugs like marijuana and hash at
coffeeshops in the Netherlands. Although initially enforced in other areas of the country (but not now), the
wise and commerce driven Amsterdammers have done
what they usually do when they dont like a law. The
city and the local police have turned a blind eye to pot
smoking fearing a catastrophic loss of tourism euros.
Basically, what were saying is that you can go to any of
the following places and smoke to your lungs content.
ABRAXAS
Down a side-street off one of the main boulevards in
Amsterdam Centrum, youll find this surprisingly cosy
medium-size coffeeshop spread over several narrow
floors. With extensive mosaics and elaborate dcor, it
includes large comfortable banquettes and pleasantly
mellow lighting aided by candles on every table. Well
organised and efficient staff make this an attractive option for a relaxed (but brief) break while touring the citys
many delights. Longer stays at this coffeeshop will permit you a view of the souvenir shop as well as a comfortable smoking session.QA-2, Jonge Roelensteeg 12 - 14,
abraxas@abraxas.tv, www.abraxas.tv. Open 10:00 01:00. J
AMNESIA
The first thing to be said about this coffeeshop is that its
part of a chain which has received many Cannabis Cup
Awards and therefore should be on the map for any connoisseur. Even if youre just eager to sit down in pleasant
surroundings, this is a good option. With a view of the canal, down a quiet side street, this establishment boasts a
pleasant dcor of purple swirls and gold and black as well
as equally pleasant and efficient staff. A choice of games
and vaporizers will ensure your time at this coffeeshop is
well spent, and outside seating in the summer makes this
a prime summer coffeeshop.QE-5, Herengracht 133, tel.
(+31) 204 27 78 74. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
BARNEYS
This coffeeshop review is more about the three establishments which are part of Barneys coffeeshop empire and all
located on Haarlemmerstraat within close walking distance
of each other. One venue is a coffeeshop, the other is a bar/
restaurant and the final one is a souvenir shop/bar and
smoke-room, meaning that in between these three places,
you can smoke drink and eat to your hearts content in an attractive environment with a pleasant dcor. Popular particularly with tourists, it provides its customers with arguably
one of the best choices in life; get high and eat, get high and
drink, or get high and have a coffee. And to get high with
a bong or a vaporizer? So many wonderful choices to be
made here, but once your desires have been met, it is always
good to remember that the souvenir shop will provide you
with numerous ways to annoy your boss/ mother-in-law/
lecturer/ law enforcement agency (delete where appropriate).QD-3, Haarlemmerstraat 105, tel. (+31) 204 27 94 69,
www.barneys.biz. Open 07:30 - 01:00. P
BLUEBIRD
Bluebird might seem at first like a small coffeeshop, but
the upstairs is substantially larger than the ground floor
and the window-walls over the street are very effective in
giving the place a light and airy feel, which also provides
great people watching opportunities. These windows also
provide the best lighting to the extensively intricate artwork covering the inside walls from top to bottom, forcing the eye (stoned or not) to wander endlessly. Games
are also on offer like a pinball machine and the crowd is
of a local variety with a mix of some tourists as well. The
staff is friendly and outdoor roadside seating is available
in good weather. The availability of vaporizers make this
an ideal location for a trippy experience (along, of course,
with the dcor).QB-2, Sint Antoniesbreestraat 71, tel.
(+31) 206 22 52 32, info@coffeeshopbluebird.nl, www.
coffeeshopbluebird.nl. Open 09:30 - 01:00. GBX
EMBRACING THE HAZE

When experimenting with soft drugs in Amsterdam
one should also bear in mind that there are usually two
types of weed sold; haze, which has high THC content
and creates a strong stoned or high feeling; and nonhaze which has a somewhat milder effect. The price
difference may sometimes be quite substantial between these two types, as haze weed plants (usually
strong sativas - for those in the know) are bigger and
harder to grow properly than non-haze plants (usually
strong indicas). If youre a non-regular smoker, or even a
regular hashish smoker, start with non-haze to get your
bearings and then perhaps try a haze joint to see how
you feel. For regular (weed) smokers (close to daily consumption), haze weed will show you how truly stoned
you can get, but beware as some types may stick you
to your chair and you may drool (well, maybe not the
second part). Just remember to have fun!
Alfresco toking on Rembrandtplein
BULLDOG NO. 90
Arguably the first ever coffeeshop in Amsterdam, this establishment combines cannabis history and getting high
with an excellent central location. With seating overlooking the canal on the inside and seating on the edge of the
canal outside, this coffeeshop is an ideal place any time of
year. The dcor of memorabilia like old photos, newspaper articles and the orange (youll understand once you
get here) tells the story of this venerated establishment,
which gives off a pub-like atmosphere. Computers with
internet access are available (for a fee) . Finally, the herb
purchasing area is seperate from the drinks area. QB-2,
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, tel. (+31) 206 25 98 64,
www.thebulldog.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. JB
BULLDOG PALACE
Fancy going down the police station for a spliff? Well in
Amsterdam, you can, although the police station has been
transformed into a multi-storey smoking, drinking and
dancing venue. Its a large, spacious place with a pleasant
conservatory style smoking area at the front and features
two separate downstairs areas: one for weed and one for
souvenirs. Upstairs is what can only be described as a dark
nightclub with plenty of coloured lights jumping around,
but that could have just been the effects of the haze. Alcohol including cocktails is available making it an ideal spot
for hanging out and shooting some pool in the evening
until the proper clubbing kicks off. Internet stations are also
available for downloading that evenings soundtrack.QF-7,
Leidseplein 17, tel. (+31) 206 27 19 08, www.thebulldog.
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PEGBXW
COFFEESHOP 36
Its canal view at the back sold us on this place and its
close to the station which is ideal if youre in Amsterdam
only briefly. This coffeeshop is housed on several different
levels, which isnt exactly an advantage if youre travelling with wheel-bound suitcases. (We like to get down
to business as soon as we arrive). The low lighting, strategically placed wrought-iron gates and the metal rock
interior will suit some more than others, but the friendly
staff and separation of weed and drink sales (rare so close
to the station) make it a worthwhile addition to our list.
QB-1, Warmoestraat 36, tel. (+31) 206 24 24 93. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
Summer 2015
53
Coffeeshops
DOLPHINS
You wont find a place like this anywhere in Amsterdam
or any other place on the planet for that matter. With an
overwhelming marine theme and the friendly dolphin as
your guide you can make a selection from the affordable
and obviously placed menu, sit down at one of the many
high quality vaporizers and just do your thing. The constant bubbling and of course your choice of herb will make
you feel as if submerged in another world. If inhaling at a
stool isnt your thing, there are large sofas to sink into and
the friendly staff can ensure all your needs are met down
here underwater, although you may have to swim to the
surface (or the bar) to get served.QF-7, Kerkstraat 39, tel.
(+31) 207 74 33 36. Open 10:30 - 01:00. GBXW
EASY TIMES
With a selection of over 40 intoxicating types of weed and
hash, Easy Times has no shortage of ways to get your smoke
on. If youd prefer a bong or vaporizer to attain the high youre
looking for then settle down in the Middle Eastern-style
lounge in the back. Unlike many coffeeshops that have that
run-down, slightly neglected quality about them, this place
gets high marks for its stylish interior that one could almost
call trendy. A small outdoor terrace right on the Prinsengracht
is also available and you can buy funny souvenirs and smoking accessories at the small booth at the entrance.QPrinsengracht 476, tel. (+31) 206 26 57 09, www.easytimesamsterdam.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JNXSW
GRASSHOPPER
This grand establishment is a one-stop shop for food, drink
and smoke. Its close enough to the station for a one-hour
stopover or you could even just grab a beer, a steak and
a joint without even leaving the premises. The multiple
floors cover each of these aspects and it has a pre-club feel
in the evening with private booth tables, colourful lights
and bar games like pool. The massive outdoor terrace
overlooking the canal is one of the best spots in summer
for boat, street and people watching and is, not surprisingly, incredibly popular with tourists.QA-1, Oudebrugsteeg 16, tel. (+31) 206 26 12 59, www.thegrasshopper.
nl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PJB
GREENHOUSE CENTRUM
Part of one of the best coffeeshop chains, this establishment in a busy part of the city centre is quite busy itself
and with good reason! The outside seating area next to
the canal away from the main drag is an ideal spot for
smoking on a sunny day. When the weather does go bad,
however, its colourful interior is a pleasure for stoned eyes.
The product sold here is some of the best in the Netherlands, not to mention the most varied, and well worth
analysis under a microscope, which is conveniently found
at the same counter. The lively atmosphere and large tables may not make it the best place for a relax and a read,
but is probably more appropriate for meeting new people
and perhaps planning a night out.QB-2, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 191, tel. (+31) 206 27 17 39, www.greenhouse.
org. Open 09:00 - 01:00. JB
You cant bring your weed home, so a mug will have to suffice
KATSU
Katsus laid-back atmosphere and its impressive cannabis
selection are just two reasons to head over to the De Pijp
neighbourhood. The friendly owner has created an atmosphere where locals, and the occasional tourist, can feel
at home while smoking a joint or taking a toke of a bong.
To avoid confusion make sure that the staff weighs your
goodies in front of you and skip the potent 0G18 weed unless youre a very experienced smoker. According to new
laws that will be implemented soon, it will be categorised
as a hard drug.QH-10, 1e van der Helststraat 70, www.
katsu.nl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. X
LA TERTULIA
Open since 1983, one of the oldest coffeeshops in Amsterdam is also one of the most appealing and original for smokers and non-smokers alike. Apart from the relatively ordinary
weed menu, the environment which the friendly mother
and daughter create here, includes extensive detailed artwork on the outside as well as the inside, providing trippy
experiences at every corner. The selection of drinks and inexpensive sandwiches and toasties is more extensive than
in most coffeeshops in Amsterdam and the many plants,
as well as the multiple levels and patio furniture make one
feel as if they were picnicking in a garden. The outside seating next to the canal in a quiet area of the city makes for a
relaxed break while wandering the beautiful surroundings.
Dont leave without taken at least one bite from their delicious home-made weed brownies!QE-6, Prinsengracht
312, tel. (+31) 206 23 85 03, www.coffeeshopamsterdam.
com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. B
LION OF JUDAH (BUSHMAN)
Beware! If you cant relate to the Rastafarian way of life,
you may not enjoy this coffeeshop. If, however, youd like
to embrace your inner Marley, then by all means pay a visit
to Lion of Judah. The reggae music and black history dcor as well as the real Rastafarian (or so it appears) serving
you behind the bar will certainly help you to get closer to
Jah with rather normal legal and de-criminalised products
on offer here, mon.QB-1, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 47, tel.
(+31) 206 24 27 23. Open 12:00 - 01:00.
Coffeeshops
MAGIC
This charming North African-style coffeeshop boasts
computers with internet access and a pool table, along
with other games, as well as large comfortable seating areas. The Moroccan tea will make you even more relaxed if
you decide to spark up, particularly after the scenic walk to
get to here. Far away from the main tourist areas you may
find that this place is more appropriate when not alone.
QA-3, Herengracht 287, tel. (+31) 206 13 95 96. Open
10:00 - 01:00.
NOON
Colourful, detailed dcor and comfortable seating make
this an ideal coffeeshop for relaxation. Stare at the murals,
chat with locals or try the vaporizer while sitting at one
of its large tables. There are internet-connected PCs, a TV
and even a bicycle pump last time we checked, as well as
the usual smoking paraphernalia. Its a good stop before a
night of partying on Leidseplein.QF-8, Zieseniskade 22,
tel. (+31) 206 23 02 22.
OLD CHURCH
This coffeeshop is surprisingly hard to find given its position in the centre of Amsterdam, but the giant neon signs
on the facade will certainly help. Slightly removed from
the main canals and touristy streets, it still provides convenient access to the Red Light District. Its outdoor terraces
are a pleasure to experience in the summer, but the odd
rustic/Indian theme and the ordinary menus mean that
the highlight of this coffeeshop is its outdoor terrace, and
thats about it.QB-2, Oudekerksplein 54, tel. (+31) 204
20 12 64. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
PARADOX
Amsterdam used to boast over 1,000 coffeeshops, but
these days only a quarter of these remain, including
Paradox in the heart of the Jordaan, which has served
as a haven for local smokers since 1991. Most tourists
never set foot in this quiet place, even though its more
than worth a detour. Its walls are regularly decorated by
promising young graffiti artists and the best works will
make you feel like youre hallucinating even when youre
not stoned.QD-7, 1e Bloemdwarsstraat, tel. (+31) 206
23 56 39, www.paradoxcoffeeshop.com. Open 10:00
- 20:00. JX
RESIN
Fairly spacious with a particularly original and green
interior, this coffeeshop may provide a some pleasant respite during a visit to Amsterdam. Reflecting the
theme of the famous Red Light District, a keen eye may
be able to discern sex swings, but dont worry. Other
seating is available in the form of sofa benches lining the
wall. There are TV screens to catch your gaze and music
with an electronic edge drones on in the background.
The staff here arent particularly friendly, but then again
thats fairly typical of Amsterdam coffeeshops where the
stoned customer is rarely king.QA-1, Hekelveld 7, tel.
(+31) 204 22 98 38.
SOLO
With one of the walls entirely covered in posters, your
eyes may wander while having a toke here, as well as your
ears thanks to the chilled music. Best of all, it provides
free marshmallows in case you feel light-headed (a common side effect of the herb - well if its good anyway),
a little peckish or indeed, if you just fancy one.QB-2,
Korte Koningsstraat 2, tel. (+31) 204 20 04 28, www.
soloamsterdam.nl. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
SUPER SKUNK
The classic Indica-dominant Skunk #1 that changed the face
of cannabis culture across the world continues to amaze
weed-lovers over a quarter of a century after the release of
its powerful ganja. In our opinion Super Skunk also serves
the best strawberry haze in Amsterdam. Order up front and
then move on to the comfy couches and Arabic style puffs
in the back where you can contemplate the controversial
portraits of weed smoking Muslim women. In liberal Amsterdam anything goes, but dont tell ISIS!QF-8, Prinsengracht 480, tel. (+31) 206 38 41 08. JAXSW
SMART & HEAD SHOPS

AMSTERDAM SEED CENTER
Why buy untested and unproven weed when you can just
buy seeds that have already been awarded the prestigious
Cannabis Cup? If you live in Holland or another European
country where its legal to import cannabis seeds you can
ask the knowledgeable staff here everything there is to
know about cultivating this amazing plant. Unfortunately,
US residents arent allowed to bring any seeds home. The
shop also sells books about growing cannabis and t-shirts
made from hemp. Seeds can be ordered online and sent to
your home country, but due to legal issues most countries
outside the EU, including the USA, are excluded from this service.QA-2, Gravenstraat 12, tel. (+31) 207 37 00 60, www.
amsterdamseedcenter.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon, Tue,
Wed 10:00 - 19:00. Bag of 3 seeds 20 - 30. JA
Who said horticulture was boring?
Mike Studeny
Summer 2015
55
Lifestyle Directory
Need to wash some clothes while you check your e-mail
or find a doctor to bandage a sprained ankle? Youll find
the answers here.
BOWLING
LOVERS POWERZONE
Take advantage of six modern bowling lanes or challenge
your friends to a game of laser tag.QG-4, De Ruyterkade
153, tel. (+31) 207 60 76 00, www.loverspowerzone.nl.
Open 16:00 - 22:00, Wed 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 01:00,
Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Bowling: 22.50 27.50/hour, Laser tag: 9 - 16. TJG
DENTISTS
TANDARTSEN AAN DE HERENGRACHT
QF-6, Herengracht 318, tel. (+31) 207 51 27 17, info@
tadh.nl, www.tadh.nl. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Tue, Wed
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GOLF
SWINGING 1960S LONDON

Even if youre not a fan of
Austin Powers, you might
appreciate a new exhibition
at the FOAM photography
museum (G-7, Keizersgracht
609, www.foam.org) entitled Swinging Sixties
London - Photography in
the Capital of Cool. From
June 12 - September 2 you can view iconic images
from a brief, yet unique period in Londons history
when pop culture including musicians, celebrities and
social change became a hot topic among artists and
photographers. Among the not to be missed photographs are works by renowned shutterbugs John
Cowan, Terence Donovan, Brian Duffy, John French,
John Hopkins, Norman Parkinson, Eric Swayne and
Philip Townsend. Tickets cost 10. Image: Traffic (1960),
Norman Parkinson, courtesy of FOAM
DE HOGE DIJK
This 18-hole course is open from sunrise to sunset yearround, but a golf proficiency certificate (GVB in Dutch) is
mandatory.QAbcouderstraatweg 46, tel. (+31) 294 28
12 41, fax (+31) 294 28 63 47, info@dehogedijk.nl, www.
dehogedijk.nl. TALGBKW
KARTING
HAIRDRESSERS & BARBERS
LAUNDRIES & DRY CLEANERS
KINKI KAPPERS
Youll feel like a fashion model at this trendy hair salon.
QD-3, Haarlemmerdijk 17, tel. (+31) 206 25 60 00, info@
kinki.nl, www.kinki.nl. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 21:00. Closed Sun.
QUEENS HAIRSTYLE
Although we never spotted any blue bloods here, this
trendy salon is quite expensive!QF-7, Herengracht 447,
tel. (+31) 203 20 64 77, info@queenshairstyle.nl, www.
queenshairstyle.nl. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Thu 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun. J
THE CLEAN BROTHERS WASSERETTE

Wash your own clothes here.QE-4, Westerstraat 26, tel.
(+31) 206 27 98 88. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
WASH@NET
Check your e-mail while you wash your clothes or bring
your own laptop and use its internet connection.QB-3,
Amstel 30, tel. (+31) 204 28 62 35.
RACE PLANET AMSTERDAM

Indoor go-karting. It also offers specials for kids parties.
QHerwijk 10, tel. (+31) 206 11 11 20, www.raceplanet.
nl. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
LIBRARIES
CENTRALE BIBLIOTHEEK
This modern glass building between the Central Station
and the NEMO Science Centre not only has an interesting
location but also books in English, internet access and its
open late.QH-3, Oosterdokskade 143, tel. (+31) 205 23
09 00, info@oba.nl, www.oba.nl. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
MASSAGE
Pleasure boats and palm trees
KOAN FLOAT
This massage centre lets you relax by floating in warm water
heated to 35.5C.QF-7, Herengracht 321, tel. (+31) 205 55
03 33, www.koanfloat.nl. Open 09:30 - 23:00. JA
XING XING MASSAGE SALON
All kinds of massages from foot to full body.QOvertoom
95, tel. (+31) 204 89 30 88, www.xingxingmassage.
webs.com. Open 12:00 - 22:30.
Lifestyle Directory
MEDICAL & WELLNESS
TATTOOS & PIERCING
EXPAT MEDICAL CENTRE

The English-speaking doctors here offer medical attention, physiotherapy and even psychotherapy and they
accept EU health cards, too!QD-6, Bloemgracht 112,
tel. (+31) 204 27 50 11, www.expatmc.net. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Saturdays and Sundays by appointment only.
DERMADONNA CUSTOM TATTOOS

Get a permanent souvenir of Amsterdam from the professionals at Dermadonna.QB-2, Kloveniersburgwal
34, tel. (+31) 207 73 66 14/(+31) 611 28 47 39, www.
dermadonna.nl. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
PHARMACIES
DA APOTHEEK LEIDSESTRAAT
The pharmacy can be reached during the day via the
entrance of the DA-drugstore at Leidsestraat around the
corner.QF-7, Leidsestraat 74 - 76, tel. (+31) 204 22 02
10, www.da-apotheekleidsestraat.apotheek.org. Open
09:00 - 21:50. Closed Sat, Sun.
DAM APOTHEEK
Centrally located pharmacy next to the Dam.QA-2, Damstraat 2, tel. (+31) 206 24 43 31, www.dam-apotheek.nl.
Open 09:00 - 17:30. A
REAL ESTATE
DIRECT WONEN
If youre looking for an apartment, these guys may be able
to help.QE-8, Overtoom 47, tel. (+31) 206 16 16 66, www.
directwonen.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
SPAS & BEAUTY

CITY STREET SPA
The Japanese-style City Street Spa is Amsterdams latest
attraction among the spa set. Apart from the usual treatments, you can also hire the whole place for 60/hour.
QG-8, Prinsengracht 764, tel. (+31) 202 21 41 02, www.
thecitystreetspa.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
SPA AMSTERDAM ZUIVER
This exclusive spa located in the Amsterdam Forest provides a wide variety of pools, hot tubs, saunas, hamams
and lounge areas both inside the complex and outside as
well. A range of massages, beauty treatments and wellness
procedures are also on offer.QN-5, Koenenkade 8 (Amsterdamse Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 10, www.spazuiver.
nl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. AD
TENNIS COURTS
SPORTCENTRUM AMSTELPARK
Tennis anyone? Take your pick of 21 outdoor or 11 indoor courts. You can also play squash or take advantage
of its fitness centre, spa, restaurant and sports bar in the
lovely Amsterdam Bos.QKoenenkade 8 (Amsterdamse
Bos), tel. (+31) 203 01 07 00, info@amstelpark.nl, www.
amstelpark.nl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
ALKD
VETS & PETS

DIERENKLINIEK DE JORDAAN
QD-4, 2e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat 19, tel. (+31) 204 23
61 04, www.dierenkliniekdejordaan.nl. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
HET DIERENPUNT
This is an animal clinic, a veterinary practice, a pharmacy
and a shop all in one.QJoris Ivensplein 108, tel. (+31) 204
72 12 22, www.hetdierenpunt.nl. Open 08:00 - 19:30.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
AMSTERDAM SOUVENIRS
Cheese Dutch cheese is simply
legendary and among the worlds
best. For the best big chunks and
whole wheels of Gouda, goat or
sheep cheese go to Cheese &
More on Leidsestraat. If you have
a more demanding palate try the
gourmet cheeses at Reypenaer
(Singel 182). Our personal favourite would have to be Oude Amsterdam Kaas (Old Amsterdam Cheese) sold at all local cheese shops.
Delftware The factory in Delft isnt exactly close to
Amsterdam, but Delfts Blauw (blue porcelain) is sold
everywhere in Amsterdam. Find a tourist shop and go
wild with the little cute statues. We particularly like the
Christmas ornaments at Jorrit Heinen (Prinsengracht
440) and Rinascimento (Prinsengracht 170).
Climb aboard Amsterdam at Museumplein
Stroopwafels It looks like a gooey biscuit thats been

run over, but its actually delicious. One of the most
exported products among people visiting their friends
and family abroad (because its small, easy to transport
and very tasty), you can find them at any supermarket
and most souvenir shops. Photo courtesy of Reypenaer
Summer 2015
57
Amsterdam for kids

Although we wouldnt recommend a stroll with the kids
around the Red Light district, except perhaps as a cautionary tale, Amsterdam does have plenty of options for the little ones. Here are some of the best.
KIDS STUFF
BALLORIG
This enormous space is filled with long rows of tables like a
German beer hall and at each table youll find a few young
mothers and here and there a granny or two. Ballorig is
actually a huge childrens playground at the edge of the
Gaasterplas in the Zuidoost district.QW-2, Valburgdreef
1001, tel. (+31) 204 00 01 01, www.ballorig.nl. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Admission: adults free, children 7.
PTULNBKW
BOUNZ
What used to be a classroom for PE teachers in training has now been transformed into a large trampoline
centre. Young and old enjoy jumping, back flipping
and flopping on 32 connected trampolines. Its a lot of
fun, but if youre over the age of 30, muscle aches are
guaranteed!QM-2, Willinklaan 3-5, tel. (+31) 206 11 44
81, info@bounzsport.nl, www.bounzsport.nl. Open
13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 5.50/hour. TLN
BOUWSPEELPLAATS T LANDJE
Believe or not, but dads arent allowed in this childrens
paradise. The management decided that their adult male
presence was just too stern and would prevent kids from
being, well, kids. t Landje, which is located on a peninsula in Rembrandt Park, offers arts and crafts classes and
other activities for children.QN-3, Rembrandtpark, tel.
(+31) 206 18 36 04, imuls@impuls.nl, www.impuls.nl.
Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
TIBC
DE ONTDEKHOEK
Children from the ages of 4 to 14 can have a blast at the
inventors workshop, experimenting, testing and discovering new things. More than 30 experiments are at you
disposal such as miniature bricklaying, making chips and
making and playing street organ music.QN-2, Burgemeester Rellstraat 145, tel. (+31) 204 11 68 46, www.
ontdekhoek.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission: adults 8, children 10. T
DE PIJP PETTING ZOO (KINDERBOERDERIJ DE
PIJP)
This petting zoo has been entertaining children in De Pijp
since 1983 and is home to an amazing 50 different species
of animals from goldfish and rodents to turtles and ducks.
The usual ponies, donkeys, pigs, rabbits, goats and sheep
are also on hand.QH-10, Lizzy Ansinghstraat 82, tel.
(+31) 206 64 83 03, kinderboerderijdepijp@wanadoo.
nl, www.kinderboerderijdepijp.nl. Open 11:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. T
Find your inner scientist at Science Center NEMO
DigiDaan
FUN FOREST
This climbing park has eight different routes of varying
difficulty at various heights within living trees. Climbing with a harness can take up to three hours including
a 20-minute safety course. Fun for adults and children.
QBosbaanweg 3, Amstelveen, tel. (+31) 206 42 96 83,
amsterdam@funforest.nl, www.funforest.nl. Admission: 11.50 - 21.50.
SCIENCE CENTER NEMO
Look for the big green building jutting out into the water
to find this fun science centre that will make you wish you
were a kid again. The sounds of childrens laughter and
unreserved awe will accompany you on a variety of levels
where visitors can learn about science without the boring
textbooks and teachers. Make giant soap bubbles, generate electricity or lots of other hands on activities. You can
also see how fuel engines work or discover why teenagers
look, feel and act the way they do; see how our daily lives
will change in the future with new and advanced technologies; and lots of other interesting stuff. An exhibition
entitled World of Shapes allows you to create new shapes
from triangles and squares and children can tower above
their parents in the Ames room. You can also bring your
own lunch and eat it in the cafeteria or purchase food at
the museum. A good museum shop is also available where
you can buy science experiments and other great souvenirs for kids.QH-4, Oosterdok 2, tel. (+31) 205 31 32 33,
info@e-NEMO.nl, www.e-NEMO.nl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Admission: 15, children under four free. AK
TUNFUN SPEELPARK
In what looks like a disused underground metro station
near the Portuguese Synagogue lies Tun Fun, a childrens
paradise. If you cant find it just follow the steady stream of
families, childrens parties and school excursions into the
depth of this enormous playground that includes slides,
climbing labyrinths, painting workshops, trampolines
and other atrractions. The screams of the children can
be a bit overwhelming at times but internet access and
cans of beer at the caf help keep the cacaphony of prepubescant chatter at bay. Adults are only admitted with
children and only have to pay an entrance fee for their kids.
QH-5, Mr. Visserplein 7, tel. (+31) 206 89 43 00, www.
tunfun.nl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: kids 7.50,
adults free. KW
Venue index
&Samhoud Places 18
Abraxas 52
Akhnaton 22
Albert Cuyp Market 46
Allard Pierson
Museum 28
Alto Jazz Caf
24
Amnesia 52
Amsterdam Museum
28
Amsterdam Seed
Center 55
Anne Frank House 28
Artis Royal Zoo
30
Asmin Afhaal
36
A-Train Hotel
11
Badhuis Javaplein 40
Bagels & Beans
48
Ballorig 58
Barneys 53
Barra 44
Batavia 1920
24
Bazar 44
Biblos 20
Bird 17
Bloem 14
Blue 15
Bluebird 53
Blue Boat Company 26
Bombay Inn
14
Boom Chicago
23
Bounz 58
Bourbon Street
24
Bouwspeelplaats t
Landje 58
Brewers Canal
30
British General Stores
43
Brooklyn Hotel
38
Brouwerij t IJ
21
Bulldog No. 90
53
Bulldog Palace
53
Burgermeester 12
Busters Caf
25
Caf Casablanca 24
Caf de Klos
12
Caf de Koe
20
Caf de Spuyt
21
Caf de Zwart
19
Caf Emmelot
20
Caf Fonteyn
19
Caf George
19
Caf Heuvel
20
Cafe Lellebel
50
Caf Papeneiland 21
Caf Restaurant
Kerkzicht 36
Caf Scheltema
19
Caf Schiller
19
Caf Sound Garden 20
Cafe t Sluisje
38
Caffe Milo
40
Casa Rosso
24
Centrale Bibliotheek 56
City Street Spa
57
Club Church
50
Club Escape
22
Cocos Keuken
36
coffee@last 36
Coffeeshop 36
53
Coffee@VanLoon 19
Coster Diamonds 46
DA Apotheek
Leidsestraat 57
Dam Apotheek
57
De Bakkerswinkel 15
De Bierfabriek
21
De Blauwe Polder 38
Decathlon Arena 49
De Deugniet
20
De Friedesche Molen
32
De Hoge Dijk
56
De Italiaan
42
De Nieuwe Meer 37
De Ontdekhoek
58
De Pijp Petting Zoo 58
De Pilsener Club 21
De Pizzabakkers 16
Dermadonna Custom
Tattoos 57
Desa 44
Design Overtoom 43
De Spiegel
16
De Winkel van Nijntje
46
De Ysbreeker
40
Diamant Museum
Amsterdam 46
Diemer Forest
49
Dierenkliniek De
Jordaan 57
Direct Wonen
57
Do Brasil
12
Dolphins 54
Dorpsplein Sloten 37
Dosa 42
DoubleTree by Hilton
Hotel Amsterdam
Centraal Station 10
Duikelman 46
Dutch Canal Boat 36
Dutch Design Hotel
Artemis 36
Eastern Islands
30
EasyHotel Amsterdam
Ferdinand Bolstraat 44
Easy Times
54
Eden Amsterdam
Manor Hotel
40
Expat Medical Centre
57
EYE Film Institute 39
Fashion Caf
37
FEBO 16
Fenan Klein Afrika 42
Fjllrven Brand
Center 32
Fletcher Hotel
Amsterdam 48
Flevo Park
41
Flower Market
31
Fun Forest
58
Gaasper Park
49
Gandhi 14
Gay Tourist
Information Centre 50
Golden Bend
31
Grasshopper 54
Gray Line
26
Greenhouse Centrum
54
Grill Steakhouse Mama
14
Glloglu 18
Haesje Claes
13
Hampton By Hilton
Amsterdam Arena
Boulevard 48
Heineken Experience
46
Hermitage Amsterdam
28
Het Dierenpunt
57
Het Schip Museum 43
Holland Casino
22
Hortus Botanical
Gardens 30
Hotel Citadel
11
Hotel de lEurope 10
Hotel Esthera
10
Hotel Iron Horse 42
Hotel Notting Hill
Amsterdam 11
Hotel The Exchange 11
Hotel Vondel
42
Houseboat Museum 28
House of Bols
Cocktail and Genever
Experience 47
Ichi-e 48
IJ Kantine
38
IJscuypje 14
IKEA 49
Il Tramezzino
15
In de Olofspoort 23
Katsu 54
Keramiek Atelier
Marjoke de Heer 39
Keytours Excursions 26
Kinki Kappers
56
Koan Float
56
Kramer Kunst & Antiek
32
La Brasa
17
Lanskroon 12
La Place
12
La Tertulia
54
Librije Zusje
18
Lion of Judah
54
Los Pilones
16
Lovers Powerzone 56
Madame Tussauds
Amsterdam 27
Magic 55
Manneken Pis
14
MAOZ 18
Markt Amsterdamse
Poort 49
Mata Hari
19
Meneer Nilsson
17
Meram Restaurant 48
Monte Pelmo
14
Mulliners Wijnlokaal 25
Museum of the Tropics
41
Nachttheater Sugar
Factory 22
National Maritime
Museum 29
National Monument 31
NDSM-werf 39
New King
13
NH Caransa Hotel 10
NL-Hotel
Museumplein 44
Noaras Restaurant and
Lounge 18
Noon 55
NYX 50
Old Church
55
Old Nickel
21
Old Sailor Pub
25
Paradox 55
Pasta e Basta
15
Path Arena
49
Pelangi 14
Pink Point &
Homomonument 50
Plan B
43
Players 25
Pompstation 41
Portuguese
Synagogue 28
Prik 50
Quartier Putain
13
Queens Hairstyle 56
Race Planet
Amsterdam 56
Reality 51
Record Friend
32
Record Mania
46
Red Light Secrets 27
Rembrandt Statue 31
Resin 55
Restaurant De Kas 41
Restaurant Merkelbach
41
Reypenaer 32
Rijksmuseum 47
Rinascimento
Delftware 32
Royal Palace
Amsterdam 29
Sahan 37
Sandton Hotel De
Filosoof 42
Sarphatipark 47
Satellite Sports Caf 25
Scandinavian Embassy
44
Schellingwouderkerk
39
Science Center NEMO

29, 58
SkyLounge 22
Skyy Bar
36
Slainte Irish Pub 23
Solo 55
Soup En Zo
16
Spa Amsterdam Zuiver
57
Spang Makandra 44
Sportcentrum
Amstelpark 57
Starbucks 48
Stayokay Amsterdam
Zeeburg 40
Stedelijk Museum 47
Studio 80
22
Super Skunk
55
Taboo 51
Tandartsen aan de
Herengracht 56
Teddys Corner
13
The American Book
Center 32
The Bananen Bar &
Club 24
The Butcher
44
The Hash, Marihuana
& Hemp Museum 29
The Old Church
26
The Oyster Club 45
The Pancake Bakery 16
The Parrot: Church of
Sts. Peter and Paul 27
The Pissers of
Amsterdam 49
The Pool Hole
21
The Rembrandt House
Museum 26
Thermos Sauna
51
The Rough Kitchen 42
The Tara
23
The Waterhole
24
The Weigh Station 26
Tibet Restaurant 18
t Lieverdje
13
Tonys NY City Bagels
12
Toro Dorado
17
Tourist Inn
11
TunFun Speelpark 58
Tuschinski Theatre 26
Twenty Third Bar 45
Van Gogh Museum 47
Van Harte
15
Van Loon Museum 30
Vermeer 18
Vesper 23
Village Bagels
12
Vivelavie 51
Vlaamse Friteshuis 16
Vyne 25
Waldorf Astoria
10
Wash@Net 56
Wertheim Park
30
Westerkerk 27
Westerpark 43
WesterUnie 43
Whiskycaf L&B
25
Wing Kee
13
Winston Kingdom 22
World of Ajax Tours 49
Wynand Fockink 23
Xing Xing Massage
Salon 56
Yellow Bike
31
zuiderMRKT 46
Zushi 17
Summer 2015
59

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Explore hipster hot

A guide to gay-friendly Amsterdam

Where to smoke responsibly

A few words from the editor

Arriving & Getting Around

Amsterdam for kids

List of small features

Getting to grips with Amsterdam

Canals, cafs & the Plantage

Lakes, parks and modern architecture

Rural landscapes and cutting-edge design

Modern islands and ethnic neighbourhoods

Restaurants, pubs and the Westergasfabriek

De Pijp and some of the citys best museums

Spas, doctors and other useful information

How to get to and from your hotel

Maps & Index

Sales & Circulation

It comes as no surprise that

4 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around

Remember where you parked your bike!

6 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around

Rent a boat and see the city at your leisure

New Years Day (Nieuwjaarsdag)

Do as the locals do and use a bike to get around Amsterdam

8 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

MAIL & PHONES

Despite the excellent state of Dutch roads and cars (its

CREAM OF THE CROP

U Facilties for disabled I Fireplace

Stunning architecture in the city centre

Amazing view of the Prinsengracht

BOUTIQUE & DESIGN HOTELS

Amsterdam Centrum has plenty of tourist traps, but the

Canalside dining in central Amsterdam

COFFEE & TEA

UITSMIJTER: A CLASSIC DISH

Charming terrace in the Jordaan

JOIN THE TEAM

If youre interested in a unique and rewarding career with Europes leading

Alfresco dining on Rembrandtplein

16 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

CAFS & CAFETERIAS

The Nieuwmarkt is full of vibrant cafs

Picturesque garden at the Van Loon Museum caf

CAF SOUND GARDEN

RED LIGHT STREETS

BILLIARDS & POOL

Look for the little man to find salvation

NACHTTHEATER SUGAR FACTORY

COCKTAILS & LOUNGE BARS

Holland is famous for its tiny beers. Try one

22 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

SLAINTE IRISH PUB

The Red Light district needs no introduction

24 Amsterdam In Your Pocket

Plenty more boozers at

Relax with a tasty brew by the water