Historic Dress in America (1507 To 1800) - Elizabeth McClellan 1904

Historic dress
in America,
1607-1800
Elisabeth McClellan
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HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA
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HISTORIC
DRESS
AMERICA
1607-1870
ELISABETH
McCLELLAN
Denized by
Coogle
REIGN OF JAMES
1685
Frontispiece (Figure
i).
This plate
represents a soft brocade
gown which was
brought from England to the Barbadoes Colony in 1685 and has been lent to the
by a direct descendant of the owner. It is looped back over a satin petticoat, originally white, but mellowed by time into a rich ivory tint, and trimmed
with two flounces of lace. The sleeves of the low-cut bodice are short and finwriter
The
gimp of the prevailing soft red colour of the brocade.

trimmed with graduated bows of ribbon in the fashion
ished with a fringed
stomacher
"e*chelles.
is
"
The
to correspond with the falling
long in the back and

plaits
is
band or
The
collar.
skirt of the
gown
looped at the hips with knots of ribbon;
around the waist and sewed
to the bodice
At that period the hair was drawn back
down on
called
undersleeves of fine lawn are finished with lace ruffles
softly
which
is fitted
is
it is
quite
laid in
close to the figure.
from the face and two curls hung
the shoulders from the knot at the back.
HISTORIC DRESS
AMERICA
IN
1607-1800
With an Introductory Chapter on Dress
French Settlements
in
in
the Spanish and
Florida and Louisiana
by
ELISABETH McCLELLAN
TRANSLATOR OP "SCHILLER AND HIS TIMES." ETC.
ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, PEN AND INK, AND HALF-TONE BY
SOPHIE
B.
STEEL
OF THE PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL ART
TOGETHER WITH REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OF RARE PORTRAITS,

ORIGINAL GARMENTS, ETC.
PHILADELPHIA
GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY

PUBLISHERS
Copyright,
1904, by
GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY

Published
November, 1904
"Fashion wears out more apparel than the man," and happily
for us
placed
some
in
relics of
by-gone days have been preserved intact and
our hands for the preparation of
this
documents of history on the subject of Dress
in
veritable
book
America, which
should teach you "the nice fashion of your country," and help you
"to construe things after their fashion."
For these
portraits
work
interesting
old
garments and also for the valuable
and family papers most generously entrusted
to us for
our
take this opportunity to express, in behalf of Miss Steel and
myself, our appreciation
and sincere thanks.
Elisabeth McClellan.
Philadelphia, October, 1904.
Introduction to Present Edition
We
all
know
there
is
much
history in costume and yet at
work was begun
there were many books to be

had describing the furniture, silver, houses, churches, meetinghouses, school-buildings and even the coaching inns frequented
by the people of colonial days in America, but of the dress of
the colonists, little or nothing had been put into book form.
Occasionally some contemporary biographer would describe
the costumes worn at festivities in the larger towns of the
colonies, and by their help we could easily picture to ourselves
a lady of that time adjusting her lace ruffles before a Chippendale mirror, or a gentleman studying the graceful use of his
snuff box with the aid of his reflection. But of the every day
clothes of these same people worn during the busy hours of
the time this
those stirring times, the dress of the merchants, the artisans,
and their families, there was absolutely no book

found on the shelves of the libraries. Before the Revomany a ship load of immigrants, wearing the costume of
the country of their birth, landed in our ports, lending a
variety and contrast to the appearance of the people. Much
the farmers
to be
lution
was necessary to collect the material for this book,

but Miss Steel and I found that our interest grew as we
are much gratified to know that a new edition
worked.
has been called for, proving that the earlier one filled a
demand and has been of use to authors, artists, playwrights
and students of history, for whose benefit it was undertaken.
research
We
Elisabeth McClellan.
June, 1917.
Contents
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTRR
PACK
The Spaniards in Florida and California, 1565-1764

The French Settlements in Louisiana and the Mississippi
25
Valley,
1680-1764
PART
33
I.
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
The English Colonies
Maryland, the Barbadoes, and
in Virginia,
the Carolinas, 1607-1700
39
New Hampand Rhode Island, 1620-1700

The Dutch and English in New York, Long Island, the Jerseys,
Delaware, and Pennsylvania, 1621-1700
The English Colonies
in
Massachusetts, Connecticut,
shire, Maine,
PART
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
II.
Women's Dress,
17 00- 1800
173
Reign of Queen Anne
Reign of George
79
117
181
190
Reign of George II
193
Reign of George III
20a
After the Revolution
Children's Garments, 1 700-1800

Men's Apparel, 1700-1800
Reigns of Queen Anne and George
Reign of George II
Reign of George HI
255
'
3 16
328
Eighteenth Century
in the
Uniforms
America, 1775-1800
in
299
37
After the Revolution
Legal Dress
279
295
GLOSSARY
INDEX
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED
335
34
381
397
4Q.S
Digitized by
Google
Illustrations
Gown
of red brocade
worn
Barbadoes Colony about
1.
(In colours)
2.
(Initial)
3.
Spanish gentleman, end of sixteenth century
26
4.
Spanish soldiers with rapiers and arquebuses, middle of sixteenth century
27
5.
Fernando De Soto,
29
6.
Sieur de
1685.
Lent by Mrs. Rachel
in the
St. Clair Miller.
Frontispiece.
Spanish galleon
La
in
Salle, in
25
Spanish armour of the sixteenth century
French costume of 1680
7.
Pedro Menendez de Aviles,
8.
Sir Francis
9.
French peasant
Drake,
in
29
Spanish dress, 1565
in the dress of
29
an English sea-captain, 1586
29
women
34
10. Jesuit missionaries

11.
(Initial) Sir
35
Walter Raleigh
43
12.
Captain John Smith, 1616
13.
Sir
14.
George Sandys, Secretary of the Virginia Colony, reign of Charles
15.
Sir Isaac Pennington, reign of Charles 1
16. Sir
Edwyn
44
Sandys, 1607
45
John Pennington, reign of Charles
17.
18.
Ordinary dress of a boy, 1602-1676
19.
Dress of a colonial governor, reign of Charles
20.
Dress of a colonial lady, reign of Charles 1
21.
45
45
45
farthingale, 1607
47
47
1
49
49
22.
Costume of a planter's wife, reign of James 1

Costume of a gentleman planter, reign of James
23.
Ordinary dress of a
24.
English mariner, 1650 and after
53
25.
Countryman
54
little girl,
in doublet,
49
1
49
1602-167 6
52
1660 and after
31.
and morion, seventeenth century

Silver frontlet worn by the Queen of the Pamunkeys
Silver mace, used in the House of Burgesses, Virginia
George Percy, second governor of Virginia
Steel vambrace dug up near Jamestown
Doublet worn in the reign of James 1
32.
Indoor dress of an English gentlewoman, reign of Charles
26. Soldier in cuirass
55
27.
57
28.
29.
30.
57
57
57
59
1
65
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE
PAGE
33.
Outdoor summer costume of an English
34.
Back view
lady, reign of Charles 1
65
of outdoor dress, reign of Charles 1
68
hood and apron, reign of Charles 1

English gentlewoman in winter dress, furs and mask, reign of Charles
A peddler, from an old print
35. English lady in
36.
37.
37$.
69
I.
Monmouth cap
38. (In colours)
of quality in the fashionable dress of William
and Mary's
75
39.
(In colours) Typical dress of a child in the seventeenth century
40.
(In colours)
Outdoor dress of a tradeswoman, end
75
41. (In colours)
Workingman, end
42. (In colours)
43. (Initial)
gentleman
Puritan
of seventeenth century
in the reign of
William and
75
Mary
dame
44. Mandillion of black
silk,
Photograph of a doublet, reign of Charles
85
I
Photograph of a doublet, reign of James 1

47. Typical winter costume of a lady, 1640
48. Boy's doublet of white linen embroidered with gold
49. Bodice of white
66. Puritan colonist of the

67. Puritan
An
69.
reign of Charles I
woman
94
95
1610-1695
Massachusetts Bay
of the Massachusetts
96
Company
Bay Company
English gentleman of about 1666
Cannons or breeches
fastenings, 1650
72.
Lady's glove with embroidered
73.
Head,
after Hollar,
cuff,
78.
Man
81.
82.
101
in buff coat and bandolier, 1620-1660
1650-1660
Samuel Sewall, Governor and Judge of Massachusetts Colony

Sir John Leverett, Governor of Massachusetts
83. 84, 85, 86, 87. Various forms of the buff coat
88, 89, 90.
91.
93.
94.
Gorgets, 1620-1645
John Winthrop the second, 1640

John Leverett, about 1680
John Winthrop, Governor of Massachusetts Colony in 1629
Edward Winslow, Governor of Plymouth Colony, 1644
92. Sir
101
style of hair-dressing, reigns of
Gloves worn in the seventeenth century
79, 80. Points with aiglets,
97
97
99
seventeenth century
showing fashionable
Charles I and II
74. 75, 76, 77.
97
97
lady of the same date (1666) in walking hood and fur tippet
70. 71.
91
91
1595-1660
58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65. Shoes,
68.
90
silk,
Boots, 1660-1690....,
55. 56, 57-
87
87
Charles I
satin, reign of
53> 54- Boots,
75
83
1620 and after
46.
>
75
of the seventeenth cen-
tury
5. 5 1 . 5 2
73
74
Lady
reign
45.
69
101
103
104
105
105
107
108
11
in
in
111
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE
PAGE
Dutch
colonist in
New Amsterdam
New York Colony, 1647
New York,
95.
(Initial)
96.
Peter Stuyvesant, Governor of
97. Sir
98.
Edmond
Andros, Colonial Governor of
121
I2 3
1674-1681
123
Henry Hudson, 1609
123
William Keith, Governor of the Province of Pennsylvania, 1717 ... 123

100. Dutch woman in working dress, seventeenth century
126
99. Sir
Dutch lady
101. (In colours)
103. (In colours)
Dutch
of
New Amsterdam,
Dutchman
106.
Dutch
Dutch
107.
127
127
127
104. (In colours) English gentleman,

105.
about 1640
about 1640
lady, about 1660
102. (In colours) Patroon,
working
end of reign of Charles
II
127
about 1650
129
cap and fur-trimmed jacket, 1641
131
lady, hair arranged in puffs at the side, 1645
J 3*
in
girl in fur
dress,
Dutch girl, middle of seventeenth century

Dutch boy, same period
no. Dutch lady in fur cap and mantle, 1644
in. Swedish lady in pointed fur cap and ruff, 1640
108. Little
131
109. Little
131
131
131
iia, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 120. Hats, 1606-1692
121. Coif of a
Dutch matron,
late
Dress of an English gentlewoman, 1640
123.
Swedish
124.
Dutch lady in-outdoor
woman
125. English lady in

126.
Dutch lady
in
136
137
in clogs, 1640
137
dress, 1640
137
house dress, 1640
137
wide-brimmed hat and
ruff,
1645
141
127. English lawyer, seventeenth century

128. English
129.
130.
woman
135
seventeenth century
122.
in silk
hood and
tippet,
141
1640
141
Dutch lady in fur tippet and hood, middle of seventeenth century

Boy in periwig, about 1680
woman in coif and kerchief, 1640
141
141
131. English
132. Portrait of
little girls
133. Portrait of two
William
III,
147
1690
147
Campaign
137.
Coat and
full
breeches of buff brocade, 1681
138.
Coat and
full
breeches of dark red flowered
139.
trimmed with fancy braid, reign of James

Jeremias Van Rensselaer, end of seventeenth century
Kiliaen Van Rensselaer, first patroon of New Amsterdam, 1695
141.
wig, 1684
Coat and breeches of
147
silk
142. Sergeant-at-law, reign of Charles II
143.
144.
145
1660
136.
140.
145
Dutch boys, middle of seventeenth century
134. Periwig of Charles II,

135. Periwig of
141
in seventeenth century, reign of Charles I
Quaker gentleman, 1682

Quaker lady, 1682
149
silk,
1681
149
II.
. .
149
153
153
156
157
157
ILLUSTRATIONS
12
FIGURE
PAGE
149.
Huguenot lady, 1686

Huguenot gentleman, 1686
Sergeant-at-law, reign of James II
Count Zinzendorf in preacher's robe
Simon Bradstreet in judge's robe, about 1670
150.
Lady Fenwick,
145.
146.
147.
148.
Moravian
Moravian lady
embroidered in crepe flowers
White silk pocket cases embroidered in

Moravian cap of lawn worn over a coif
colours,
Specimens of pewter ware, carved knife boards,
Lady
about 1790
165
167
160.
seventeenth century
silver,
169
etc.,
seventeenth century
in sacque, early eighteenth century
162. (In colours) Colonial

lent
165
165
Specimens of colonial
gown
161
Count Lemcke, about 1798
159.
161. (Initial)
161
in Pennsylvania, 1787
164
153. Reticule of white silk
157, 158.
159
161
coif
154. Waistcoat of
155. 156.
157
161
widow's mourning, reign of William and Mary
in
151. Elisabeth Boehler,
152.
157
costume of 1711, of buff
by Mrs. Rachel
St.
chine" silk,
from an original
Clair Miller
179
costume of 1702-1720, reign of Queen Anne.

164. (In colours) Colonial costume of reign of George I, from an original gown
lent by Mrs. Samuel Chew
163. (In colours)
Gentleman
165. (In colours)
Man
in
gentleman
in dress of a
in the reign of
George
185
187
worn in Pennsylvania in the reign of George 1

White satin wedding gown, 1760
gown
worn in Philadelphia in 1760
Lutestring
Colonial dress of buff chine" silk worn in the Barbadoes Colony
of Queen Anne
Lady in a cardinal, early eighteenth century
171. Colonial dress,
173.
174.
175.
176. 177, 178, 179, 180, 181. Caps,
182.
183.
184.
185.
186.
188.
191
191
191
in reign
191
194
1744-1745
195
Man
in a Roquelaure, reign of Queen Anne

Back view of a yellow damask gown, reign of George I
Green brocade gown, worn in Massachusetts Colony, reign of George
Back view of gentleman's dress, reign of George 1
187. Hooped petticoats, 1721-1750
Pair of stays, about 1770. Lent by Miss Sarah Bache Hodge
197
197
I
. .
Riding hat of fawn-coloured
gown
199
200
201
190. Patten, eighteenth century
192. Colonial
197
197
201
189. Clog, eighteenth century
191.
179
183
Camlet hood, taken from an original garment of about 1702
170. Short sacque, early eighteenth century
172.
179
179
166. 167. Colonial fashion baby, 1720

168, 169.
169
177
felt,
reigns of
of kincob brocade,
Lent by Miss Archie Newlin
worn
George
in
II
and III
202
Massachusetts about 1735.

203
ILLUSTRATIONS
13
PAGE
FIGURE
193. Colonial
194.
gown worn
gown
1725.
Gown
197. (In colours)
Young
in the Massachusetts Colony,
207
207
gallant in full dress, 1740
(In colours) Colonial
House-maid
of camlet,
of kincob brocade, time of George II
gown
Weemys Moore, about

199.
203
205
worn
Lent by Mrs. Charles Hacker
196. (In colours)
198.
about 1775
in Virginia,
Riding mask, eighteenth century
195. (In colours) Colonial
in sacque,
of green taffeta,
207
worn by Mrs. Wilimina
Lent by Miss Sarah Brinton
1740.
apron and
clogs,
207
middle of eighteenth century
209
Mrs. Catharine Van Rensselaer in the popular style of cap, about 1770. . 211
From photograph lent
201. Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton in an every-day dress.
200.
by Mrs. Cutter
211
showing a peculiar cap of 1784.
202. Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton, Jr.,
photograph
203. Mrs.
Mary
lent
From
by Mrs. Cutter
211
Faneuil of Boston, about 1750
211
204.
205.
Crimson brocade gown worn by Mrs. Faithful .Hubbard of the MassaFrom a photograph lent by Mrs. Cutter
chusetts Colony, 1750.
215
206.
Another view of the green kincob gown over a white satin

apron and stomacher of white silk embroidered in colours
215
207.
Back view
Watteau gown
worn
of fawn-coloured silk brocaded with coloured flowers
Pennsylvania about 1752.
in
Lent by Mrs. William Bacon

215
Stevens
of the kincob
gown showing
the
Watteau
about 1775
209. 210, 211. Diagram of white satin gown worn by Mrs.
208.
Lady's
skirt
with
215
plaits
silk shoe,
21,7
St.
Clair about
218
1760
212. (In colours)
Wedding gown
of a
New
England Quaker
lady, about 1750.
Lent by Mrs. Charles Hacker

213. (In colours)
1750.
Gown
219
of rich brocade
worn by Mrs. Michael Gratz about
Lent by Miss Miriam Mordecai
214. (In colours) Suit of uncut velvet
215. (In colours)
219
worn by Robert Livingston
Back view
of
Watteau gown
219
of fawn-coloured silk
216-
Beaver hat and short cloak, middle of eighteenth century
217.
Back view of suit of uncut velvet worn by Robert Livingston

Lent by Miss Anna Griffith
Back view of white satin wedding gown of Mrs. St. Clair
218.
219.
Everyday costume of a young

coat, about 1770
220. Elderly
man
1770-1790.
221.
Group
of Clermont,
Lent by Mrs. David E. Dallam
reign of George II.
lady, flowered chintz over
219
221
of Clermont.
a quilted
223
223
petti-
223
of business in a coat of strong fustian over nankeen breeches,
From
a coat lent by Miss Sallie Johnson
of colonial garments, eighteenth century
223
227
ILLUSTRATIONS
MOURE
PAGE
222. Calashes,
Quaker
Quaker bonnet,
hats,
riding hat,
eighteenth
etc.,
century
223.
224.
227
Lady in capuchin, with fur trimmings and

Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Izard, 1774
West family, 1799
225. Portrait of the
HI
muff, reign of George
229
231
231
226. 227. Calashes, 1765
233
228. (In colours) Dress of blue lutestring
by Mrs. Rachel
St. Clair
worn by Mrs.
White
Mrs. Rachel
wedding gown
satin
of
Mrs.
of Clermont.
235
St. Clair, 1760.
235
Robert Livingston, of Clermont, reign of George
Anna
Lent by
Clair Miller
St.
231. (In colours) Suit of uncut velvet, waistcoat of quilted satin,
232.
Lent
23
dark satin worn by Robert Livingston

Lent by Miss Anna Griffith
229. (In colours) Suit of
230. (In colours)
1760.
St. Clair,
Miller
III.
worn by
Lent by Miss
Griffith
235
Quaker cape and
233. Embroidered
cap, 1780
237
reticule
239
234. Ladies gloves of doeskin, 1717.

235.
236.
Lent by Mrs. William H. Dreer

reticule and paste buckles.
Lent by Mrs. John Biddle
Bonnet of muslin made over reeds, 1780. Lent by Mrs. John Biddle.
239
Bead
239
. .
239
237. Crepe shawl with printed figures, late eighteenth century
239
238. Linen pocket embroidered in colours, 1752
239
239. Colonial jewelry
Lent by Mrs. Howard Gardiner
and snuff-box.
240. Lady's slipper of green
and white
239
Lent by Mrs. William H.
taffeta.
Dreer
241.
239
Fan painted by Gamble,
1771.
Lent by Mrs. Charles Hodge
239
242. Typical dress of a country girl, 1780
246
243. Night-rail, eighteenth century
244.
Gown of mauve
245. Front view of

246.
Gown
crepe,
252
end of eighteenth century.
Watteau gown
Lent by Miss Janethe
of fawn-coloured silk, brocaded in flowers.
of white embroidered muslin
worn
in
790.
253
247. Calico short sacque, late eighteenth century
Gown
of glazed buff chintz, 1795.
253
Lent by Mrs. Cooper Smith
253
249. Riding habit, about 1785

250. Mrs. Pennington in
260
Quaker
dress, 1780.
From
a portrait lent by Mrs.
Howard Gardiner
251. Catharine Schuyler
261
Van
Rensselaer, 1795.
Lent by Mrs.
J.
K. Van
Rensselaer
261
252.
Mrs. Morris
253.
Dutch lady
Rensselaer
253
Lent by Mrs. George
Knorr
248.
253
in
Quaker
of the
261
dress, 178";
New York
Colony, 1765.
Lent by Mrs.
J.
K. Van
261
ILLUSTRATIONS
15
PAGE
FIGURE
254.
Summer
264
costume, 1790-1795
255. (In colours) Suit
worn
at the court of
France by William West, Esq., of
Lent by Mr. Hemsley
Philadelphia, 1778.
265
costume of the prevailing French fashion, 1777-1779
265
257. (In colours) Gentleman's suit of drab cloth, 1786

258. (In colours) Muslin gown with flowing skirt and long sleeved bodice,
265
256. (In colours) Lady's
265
1790
Woman in typical working dress, 1790-1800

26a White satin wedding slippers, 1800. Lent by Mrs. Schaeffer
Lent by Mrs. William
261. Cups and saucers, owned by Robert Treat Paine.
259.
H. Dreer
Group
263.
Blue brocade wedding
264.
Wine
269
of slippers, 1735-1780
glasses
1730.
Back
of
slippers, 1771.
and point
Lent by Miss Helen Morton
lace belonging to
269
Governor Wentworth, 1717-
Lent by Mrs. William H. Dreer
269
mauve crSpe shown
273
in figure 341
266. Silk pelisse with quilted border, 1797.
Lent by Frank W. Taylor, Esq. 274
267. 268. Seventeenth century utensils
269. (Initial)
269
269
262.
265.
268
Boy and
girl after Sir
270.
(In colours) Girl in red stuff
271.
(In colours) Child in printed
272.
(In colours) Child in
gown
275
Joshua Reynolds,
late eighteenth century
gown and muslin cap, about 1730

gown and embroidered cap, about 1710
damask linen, about 1720
of white
273. (In colours) Little boy in blue suit, about 1740

274. (In colours)
275. (In colours)
283
285
285
285
285
Boy in brown velvet suit and cocked

Boy in blue ribbed silk suit worn
hat,
in
about 1760
285
Pennsylvania about
285
I7S6
276. (In colours) Child in buff printed cambric dress, about 1760
285
277. (In colours) Child in sheer muslin gown, with cap to match, 1790
285
278. (In colours) Little girl in cloak,
muff and hat, after
Sir
Joshua Reynolds,
about 1780
279.
(In colours)
285
Young
179
280,281. Child's stays.
282. Portrait of
young
girl in
muslin gown trimmed with embroidery, about

285
Lent by Mrs.
girl in
Gummere
287
Philadelphia, about 1760
Miss Hill of Philadelphia, 1756

284. Portrait of a child in New York, about 1700.
289
289
283.
Lent by Mrs.
J.
K. Van
Rensselaer
289
Ten Broeck, early eighteenth century

Baby dress and cap, 1771. Lent by Mrs. George Knorr
Boy in ordinary dress, 1790
285. Christiana
286.
287.
288. 289. Front
and back views
Lent by Mrs. Schaeffer
289
291
292
of a "flying Josie," late eighteenth century.
293
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE
PAGE
290. Suit of blue silk
worn by a
291. Child's dress of buff chintz

292.
White
shift
Man
294. (Initial)
boy about 1756
worn
293
in Pennsylvania,
1710
293
with plaited sleeves
293. Child's dress of
Van
295. Kiliaen
little
damask
linen
in long trousers
293
worn about 1720

293
and riding boots, late eighteenth century. . 299
Queen Anne. Lent by Mrs. J. K. Van
Rensselaer, reign of
Rensselaer
296.
297.
301
Jan Baptist Van Rensselaer, reign of George

V an Rensselaer
Lent by Mrs.
K.
301
genuine Roquelaure, middle of eighteenth century.
W.
J.
Lent by Frank
Taylor, Esq
2 9 8 > 2 99. 3-
303
Wigs. 1700-1750
301. William Penn, by
304
Benjamin West
305
George Washington, by Gilbert Stuart, 1797

303. Back view of suit of dark satin worn by Robert Livingston
304. Rev. George Whitefield, latter half of eighteenth century...
305
305. Rev. Jacob Duche", D.D., late eighteenth century
309
306. Dr. Ezra Stiles, late eighteenth century
309
302.
308
309
307. Rt. Rev. Richard Challoner, Vicar Apostolic of the English Colonies in
America, 1756
308.
309
Jonathan Edwards, second half of eighteenth century
309. Rt. Rev.
Samuel Provoost, D.D.,
First
Bishop of
New
309
York,
late eight-
eenth century
310.
Back view
309
brown
of coat of light
same
312,313. Front and back views
velvet, reign of
George II
311. Front view of
summer garment
313
of coat of
brown
in
banyan and cap, middle
315. John Penn,
in
fur-trimmed coat
316.
Thomas Penn
317. Patrick
318.
twilled cotton jean, typical
of a Friend
Gentleman
314.
313
of eighteenth century
317
as colonial governor
James Hamilton, Lieutenant Governor
317
of Pennsylvania, 1783
319. 320, 321, 322. Boots, 1702-1784

323.
326.
327.
James Logan in judicial robe, 1745

Ames, middle of eighteenth century
John Jay in robe, as Chief Justice of the United
Nathaniel Appleton of Boston, by Copley
Henry Laurens, by Copley
328.
Man
329.
John Hancock, Governor
in
321
321
States
321
working garb, 1750
323
of
Samuel Shoemaker, Mayor
321
321
the Massachusetts Colony, reign of George
III
330.
317
319
324. Fisher
325.
315
317
as colonial governor
Gordon
313
32.S
of Philadelphia,
and
his son, 1789
325
ILLUSTRATIONS
i7
FIGURE
33 1
PAGE
Portrait showing the plain but
handsome costume
of a gentleman in
Pennsylvania at the outbreak of the Revolution
325
Quaker gentleman, 1774
332. Portrait of a
325
333. Sporting dress, about 1733

334. Suit of velvet with raised figures, worn by Robert Livingston about
1770.
Anna
Lent by Miss
Griffith
329
Lent by Mrs. John Biddle.. 329
329
335. Pistols with silver mounting, about 1765.

336.
Cap worn by Governor Taylor
of
New
York, 1730
Lent by Mrs. Krumbhaar
337. Silk waistcoat, 1780.
329
338. Double-breasted waistcoat of figured silk, about 1700

339.
340.
329
Working man, last half of eighteenth century

(In colours) Brown broadcloth suit worn by Mr. Johnson
Lent by Miss
town, 1790.
Mauve
341. (In colours)
crepe
Sallie
331
of
German-
Johnson
333
gown worn by Mrs.
San Domingo.
Sartori of
Lent by Miss Janethe
333
342. (In colours) Dress of fine glazed buff cambric

leir,
343. (In
end
of eighteenth century.
Man
colours)
breeches, end of eighteenth century.

344. (In
owned by Madame Cheva-
Lent by Mrs. Cooper Smith
short- waisted,
in
high-collared
333
and nankeen
coat
Lent by Frank W. Taylor, Esq.
Muslin dress trimmed with tambour embroider)' worn
colours)
333
in
Philadelphia, 1797
333
345. Doctor of Civil Law, end of eighteenth century

346. Summer coat of dark blue silk with nankeen breeches,
336
late eighteenth
century
347.
327
337
Back view
of
brown broadcloth coat worn by Mr. Johnson about
Lent by Miss
Sallie
1790.
Johnson
337
348. Front view of same over nankeen waistcoat
337
brown twilled cotton, over white silk embroidered waistcoat

and brown satin knee breeches, worn in Philadelphia about 1790.
Lent by Mrs. John Biddle
349. Coat of
350.
Judge
in scarlet robe,
end of eighteenth century
352. Portrait of Washington,

353.
354.
355.
356.
34 1
drawn from
life
by
Du
Simitiere
Henry Laurens, drawn from b'fe by Du Simitiere

W. H. Drayton, Esq., drawn from life by Du Simitiere
Gouverneur Morris, drawn from life by Du Simitiere
Silhouette of John Randolph of Roanoke
357. Silhouette of
Washington, showing
fine net
over hair and queue
358. Silhouette of Bishop White, showing knickerbockers

359. Silhouette of Alexander Hamilton
James McClellan, of Connecticut

Light Horse Troop of Philadelphia, 1775
360. Silhouette of
361.
Uniform
of
337
339
351. Dress of ordinary seaman, 1775
343
343
343
343
347
347
347
347
347
349
ILLUSTRATIONS
FIGURE
362.
PAGE
Commodore Barry
of the United States
363. Paul Jones of the United States

364.
Camp
Navy
Navy
showing military cloak and great coat

dress of a minute-man
at Valley Forge,
365. General
Warren
in
351
351
351
355
368.
Morgan in buckskin coat of the Virginia Rangers

355
Comte De Rochambeau in dress of a French officer, 1791
355
Uniform recommended by Washington in the early part of the Revolu-
369.
366. General Daniel

367.
tion
359
minute-man
370. Dress of First
359
Company, Governor's Foot Guard, Connecticut
371. Dress of First Pennsylvania Infantry

372.
Dress of Second Pennsylvania Infantry
Uniform directed by Minister of War, 1785

374. Uniform of the Light Infantry, 1782
375. Front view of uniform recommended by Minister of War, 1785
376. Major General Pinckney in uniform
377. Major General St. Clair in uniform
373.
O. H. Williams in uniform
379. General Andrew Pickens in uniform
380. General Montgomery in uniform
378. General
381. General Francis
382. General Israel
Marion
Putnam
in
uniform
in uniform of a Continental trooper.
359
359
359
359
359
359
363
363
363
363
367
367
367
383. General Philemon Dickinson in uniform
367
John Sullivan in uniform

385. Uniform of an American officer, 1796
376
384. General
367
RULERS OF THE SETTLEMENTS AND COLONIES

IN AMERICA
Spanish.
Philip II
Philip III
French.
IV
Philip
Charles II
1665-1700
1610-1643
XIV
1643-1715
1633-1654
Swedish. Christina
Charles
1654-1660
XI
Charles
1660-1697
German. Frederick William, Elector
of
Brandenburg
Frederick, Elector of Brandenburg, afterwards
I,
Emperor
640-1 688
King Frederick
1688-17 13
I of Prussia
Leopold
English.
598
598-162
Louis XIII
Louis
Dutch.
5 56-1
1621-1665
of
Germany
Maurice, Stadtholder
1658-1705
1587-1625
Frederick Henry
1625-1647
William II
647-1 650
United Provinces of the Netherlands
1650-167 2
William of Orange, afterwards William III of England
1672-1702
James
1603-1625
Commonwealth under Cromwell
1 625-1 649
1649-1653
Protectorate under Cromwell
1653-1660
Charles II
1660-1685
James
1685-1689
Charles I
II
William and Mary
1689-1702
Queen Anne
1702-17 14
George
1714-1727
George II
1727-1760
George III
1760-1820
PRESIDENTS OF THE UNITED STATES

George Washington
1789-1797
John Adams
1797-1801
DATES OF THE SPANISH, FRENCH, SWEDISH, AND

GERMAN SETTLEMENTS
Florida
1565
Spanish
Acadia
1605
French
Quebec
608
French
Louisiana
1680
French
1692
Spanish
Texas (afterwards a part of the Spanish

Province of Mexico)
Mississippi Valley
1 699
...1769
California
Banks
of the
Delaware
Pennsylvania
French
Spanish
1637
Swedish
1683
German
DATES OF THE ENGLISH AND DUTCH

COLONIES
1607
Virginia
Massachusetts
New Amsterdam
(New York
New Hampshire
620
1621
English
English
Dutch
1664
j
English)
1623
English
Barbadoes
1625
English
Maryland
1633
English
Connecticut
1635
English
Rhode Island
The Carolinas
1636
English
1655
English
New
1664
English
Jersey
Pennsylvania
1682
English
Delaware
1682
English
Georgia
1732
English
21
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
ON DRESS
IN
THE
Spanish and French Settlements

UNDER
PHILIP
II
AND
LOUIS XIV
The
Spaniards in Florida and California

565-1 764
" Those were the days
dreams and legends,
of
Continents were new."
HE
first
settlement in North America
was the
Augustine
founded
Spanish post of
St.
in Florida,
by Pedro Menendez de Aviles
in
Unsuccessful attempts had been
made
August, 1565.
to colonize
Florida both by the French and the Spaniards
from very early
in the sixteenth century, but the
of the native Indians
hostility
had prevented
the founding of anything like a colony.
dez (Figure
when he
7)
Menen-
found a small Huguenot mission
landed,
which
he
immediately de-
Spanish Galleon.
strayed, putting the people

their leader, to
and Jean Ribaut,
death in the most heartless manner.
Horribly cruel,
deplorably superstitious, and very short-sighted in their policy were

these early Spanish settlers, but their costumes, as represented by the
great
contemporary painters, Vargas, Roelas, Velasquez, Murillo,
Mora and
others,
Parkman
says:
must have been
"Month
after
strikingly picturesque.
month, and year
after
year the
adventurers came, a procession of priests and cavaliers, crossbow-
men and
arquebusiers (Figure
4),
and Indian guides laden with
baggage."*
They came
in search of
fabulous riches which, according to some
* Pioneers of France in the
New
*5
World, by Francis Parkman.
26
Spanish Munchausen, the
soil of
the interior contained,
and
also to
bathe in the waters of a river of perpetual youth, a fable in which
even their leaders believed.
The
dress of a Spanish gentleman of this period consisted of a
doublet and slashed breeches, with long silken hose and shoes of
Cordovan leather slashed on the
toe,
a ruff of lace at the neck, and a
The
hat with high soft crown and narrow brim.
silk
Spanish soldier
Figure
Sir
is
shown
dress of a
detail
in
in
4.
Francis Drake
(Figure
in
8),
1586, stopped at St. Augustine on his
way from
West Indies
the
Walter Raleigh
and made a reconnoissance

the
Spaniards
approach.
He
destroyed a few houses
outposts
inspire
some
Figure
End
of Six
teenth Centurv.
"a prosperous
settlement
handsome gardens."
yet to be seen
Some
and the old
order
probably
to
respect for the English navy,

his
way
and
rejoicing in the cap-
ture of a pay-chest containing 2,000.

St.
as
in
his
at
fled
inhabitants with a whole-
the
went on
3.
Spanish Gentleman,
of the har-
bour, but
and
to join Sir
in Virginia (Figure 11),
Augustine at that time
is
described
with a council house, church
traces of
the
and
Spanish occupation are
castle or fortress built
in
1620
is
still
standing.
It
was never
supporting
the
policy
of Spain
to
make
her colonies
self-
they were not allowed to raise or manufacture even the
necessaries of
life,
everything must be imported from
the mother-
country.
Later
in the
California,
seventeenth century, settlements were also
made
in
where the Spaniards established missionary and military

stations in 1698,
in the territory
and Spain had
now embraced
for a time
within the limits of the United States.
In Spain and France, as well as

tries,
27
two flourishing colonies
in
England and the
Low Coun-
the prevailing types of costume during the seventeenth century
were very much
alike,
and the people
in all the Colonies of
America,
following the fashions of their time, wore doublets, farthingales, ruffs,
bands, hoods, riding-masks,

in the glossary
descriptions of which are given
etc., full
and throughout Part
Figure
I,
with
many
illustrations.
4-
Spanish Soldiers of the Middle of the Sixteenth Century, with Rapiers and Arquebuses
(from a Contemporary Print).
During the reign of Charles
II of Spain his
war with England.
The Spanish
tinually at
kingdom was conpopulation of
Augustine numbered about three hundred people and

friars
in
1665,
when Captain John
St.
Franciscan
Davis, the notorious English
buccaneer, landed and destroyed the town.
Government
fifty
After this the Spanish
established a fort at Pensacola to protect
its
interests
Dig.iz.db,
Google
28
in
Florida, but finally the
Charles II of Spain,
two kings, Charles II of England and
made a
treaty for the suppression of buccaneer-
causing a marked decline in that lawless but romantic profession
ing,
which has furnished plots
for
many an
exciting tale.
caneers of America" * a portrait of Sir Henry

rich
In
"The Buc-
Morgan shows a very
costume of slashed doublet and embroidered baldrick.
Francis
Lolonais, a fierce-looking buccaneer of French extraction,
por-
is
trayed in a very short doublet trimmed with a row of square tabs
round the
The
until
waist.
records
we
when
1763,
which lasted
find of the Spanish rule in Florida,
that province
was ceded
to
Great Britain
in ex-
change for Havana, captured by the English the preceding year,

bear witness to the charms of the women, their lovely expressive
black eyes, clear brunette complexion, and carefully arranged hair.
"At mass
little
in
they are always well dressed in black silk basquinas with
mantillas (or black lace veils) over their heads.
military costume."
was a
Dancing, as
all
The men
ago.
It is
thus described f
:
ladies of a household arrange in
a room of their dwelling
an arbour decked with garlands of flowers and lighted with

candles.
drop
in
prepared
This
is
selects
for the
The gentleman who
nonce the king of the
as queen of the dance.
inaugurated
may
lady's choice fall
Meanwhile the lady who has
a partner from among her
a bouquet of flowers.
comes
many
understood by the gentlemen as an invitation to
and admire the decorations.

it
are
the Spanish provinces,
amusement, and the Posey Dance, now obsolete,
favourite
was very popular many years
"The
in
The
ball,
visitors
and hands him
receives this posey be-
and leads out the
others take partners
fair
and the
continue several successive evenings.
donor
ball thus
Should the
upon an unwilling swain, which seldom happened,
he could be excused by paying the expenses of the entertainment."

*
By John Esqucmcling.
t History and Antiquities of
St.
Augustine, by George R. Fairbanks.
Figure
5.
Portrait
of
Fernando De Soto, showing Spanish armour of the
six-
teenth century.
Figure 6. Portrait
Figure 7. Portrait
Figure 8. Portrait
tain.
of Sieur
of Pedro
de La
Salle,
showing French costume of his day.
Menendez de Aviles, showing Spanish dress.

Drake in the dress of an English sea-cap-
of Sir Francis
3i
These assemblies were always informal and frequented by
all
meeting on a
classes, all
politeness
and decorum,
level,
for
but were conducted with the utmost
which the Spanish character
is
so dis-
tinguished.
The
customs, as well as the costumes, of their native land were
followed by these Spanish colonists, and as both California and
Florida closely resemble Spain in climate and vegetation, the old
modes
of life
were found particularly appropriate.
With the Spanish

this territory
was the
colonies,
Texas may be included,
subject of
numerous
for although
political intrigues
the Spanish authorities and the French in Louisiana, in
became a part
of the Spanish province of Mexico.
between
1692
it
The French
Settlements
in
Louisiana and the Mississippi Valley

i
680-1 764
"A gay
and gallant company

Those voyagers of old."
Undeterred by the failures and reverses of previous explorers, the
French King Louis

de
La
way
XIV
sent out
Salle (Figure 6) in
to
discover
South Sea, as the Pacific Ocean was called
La
Salle
many
experienced
in those days.
hardships on the way, but finally
reached the Mississippi River and sailed southward to
At
Gulf of Mexico.
were sung, and
King
great
La
this point
"In the name
and Navarre, fourteenth
take possession of this country of Louisiana

the river St.
from
its
cross
its
foot
By
of Louis the
name,
of that
from
the
source beyond the country of the Sioux as far as
was
raised
by the
side of the
was buried a leaden
this discovery
sail to
in the
do
mouth
of
Louis and along the river Colbert, or Mississippi,
the inscription, "Ludovicus
might
mouth
its
a wooden column was raised, hymns
Salle proclaimed,
of France
a water-
possible
if
through which ships might pass to the
the continent
across
an expedition under Robert Cavalier
1680,
La
column and
plate bearing the
its
in the
arms
mouth."
ground at
of France
and
Magnus Regnat."
Salle
had proved
that ships
the vast interior of the continent.
colonize the valley of the Mississippi,
crown of France.
32
from Europe
He now hoped
and add a new
to
lustre to the

"Le
Father Hennepin, writing in 1683, says:
33
Sieur de la Salle
appeared at Mass very well dress'd in his scarlet cloak trimmed
with gold lace."*

is
picture of the fashionable cloak of that period
given in Figure 3.
many
Discouraged by
River some of
La
Salle's
hardships, on their
men
but, despite his failure to
way up
the Mississippi
mutinied and killed the great explorer,
found a colony at the outlet of the Mis-
he stands out in history as the foremost pioneer in North
sissippi,
America.
Trading posts and
mission stations grew up in
many
places,
and were gradually augmented by bands of emigrants from other

parts of the country.
Louis
ion
for
XIV still cherished
the ambition to found a Colonial
Domin-
on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, so dramatically claimed
him by La
Salle,
a colony which
in time
might
ing English settlements on the Atlantic coast.
rival the flourish-
Accordingly, in 1698,
he sent out to Louisiana a squadron of two frigates and two smaller

ships bearing a
Among
company
the latter were
of mariners
many
and about two hundred
ex-soldiers of the
panied by their wives and children.
and needy adventurers.

clothing, provisions,
colonists.
French army accom-
Others were artisans, labourers,
"They were
and implements
all
supplied with necessary
for beginning a settlement in
the remote solitudes of Louisiana."
In
of
704, twenty
unmarried
two nuns, and shortly
to bachelor colonists.
the garrison,
and four
The costume
and short gowns
finer texture.
The same
In
of
sent out under the charge
were married
ship brought troops to reinforce
priests.
of these early
in its composition.
women were
after their arrival in Louisiana
French
The women were

handmade woolen
summer most
of
was somewhat motley
settlers
dressed in coloured bodices

stuffs,
or of French goods of
them went without
Description of Louisiana 1683, translated by
J.
G. Shee.
shoes, but in
34
winter and on holidays they wore Indian moccasins gaily decorated
with porcupine
quills, shells,
and coloured beads.
Instead of hats
they wore kerchiefs of bright colours interlaced with gay ribbons

or wreathed with flowers.
The men wore
long vests drawn over their
shirts,
leggings of
buckskin or of coarse woolen cloth, and wooden clog shoes or moccasins of heavy leather.
In winter they wrapped themselves in long
capotes or overcoats with capes and hoods which could be drawn
over their heads, thus serving for hats.
summer
In
covered
with
their
heads were
handkerchiefs
blue
worn turbanlike as a protection from

mosquitoes as well as from the sun.
The
French
usually small
were
settlements
villages
on the edge
of the prairie or in the heart of the
They were always near
woods.
bank
the
of a river, for the watercourses
were the only roads, and the
light
canoes, such as the Indians used, the
only
Figure
9.
means
villages the
French Peasant Women (from a Contemporary French Print).
one
family,
priests
munity.
close
Their houses were
enough together
gossip, each
of
built along
by the
elders of
a single narrow
for the villagers to carry
these
settlers lived like
ruled
and the
In
travel.
French
village
com-
the
street,
and
on a neighbourly
from his own doorstep.
Adjoining the village was a large enclosure, or

for the free use of all the villagers.
one for each household, the
size
It
was divided
proportioned to the
common
field,
into allotments,
number
of per-
sons in the family.
The
laces,
village traders
always kept a small stock of French goods,
ribbons and other useful and ornamental
articles,
which they

exchanged with the
settlers for the
products of the
young men became voyageurs or boatmen
the
When
traders.
35
Some
forest.
of
in the service of the
the wood-rangers returned once a year to their village
homes, great was the rejoicing, and old and young gathered around
them
These French
to hear the story of their adventures.
took characteristic delight in amusement and
settlers
"had almost as many
holidays as working days." *
Indian converts lived
them
learning from
vate
and
ground,
the
manufacture
amicable intercourse with the
in
settlers,
to culti-
various
to
useful
from the hair of the
articles
buffalo.
Many
tlers
of the original set-
married Indian women;
their descendants
latter
to
were called
Gumbos,
half-breeds or
the
being a nick-name given
them by the French.
language
Colonists
the
of
Was a
The
Louisiana
patois, a COr-
j esu it Missionaries.
rupted provincial French.
Among them
boat-builders,
firelock or
The
in size
were
few
carpenters,
and blacksmiths, the
latter
tailors,
rifle.
city of
New
Orleans was founded
and importance.
in,
in 171 7
and rapidly grew
For many years a "rude semblance of a
Court" was maintained and

could be engaged
social
amusements
of
various sorts
even duelling and brawling, for some of the
Louisiana colonists were of noble birth and

officers.
stone-masons,
capable of repairing a
many were
military
"All the people shared alike the harmless merriment and
* Discovery of the
Old Northwest and
Its
Settlement by the French, by James Baldwin.
36
frolic of the carnival.
All, too,
observed the self-denying ordinances
of the Lenten season which terminated in the festival of Easter."
The
in
1764, gave to the English
treaty of Paris, in
the Illinois
Nova Scotia*
originally peopled
made
pathetic story Longfellow has
hundred of the Acadian
six
had
Government
and Louisiana colonies as well as the province
exiles
More than
so familiar to us.
were sent to Louisiana, where they
at least the comfort of hearing their native language,
the customs
and pursuits were more congenial than
The
colonies.
and where
in the northern
quaint costumes and the peculiar head-dresses worn
by Normandy peasants
at the
minutely described in Mrs.

tour through
of Acadia,
by Normandy peasants whose
end of the seventeenth century are
Stothard's
"Letters written during a
Normandy, Brittany and other
illustrated in colour
London
in 18 18,
found.
The
and
by her husband.
is
parts
of
France,"
This book was published
in
the earliest authority on the subject I have
descriptions are not quoted here, as there
is
not any
evidence that very elaborate peasant dress was ever worn in the
American
*
colonies, f
Thus named by a company
of Scots
who
planted a settlement there in i6aa.
f For Spanish and French costumes, see Racinet's Le Costume Historique and Kretchmer's Trachten der Volker.
PART
THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Dig.iz.db,
Google
THE ENGLISH COLONIES

IN
VIRGINIA, MARYLAND, THE BARBADOES,
AND THE CAROLINAS

i
607-1 700
During the Reigns of
James
I,
Charles
and
William and
II,
James
Mary
II,
and
TOBACCO
Tobacco is but an Indian weed,
Grows green in the morn, cut down
It
Think
The
are but clay.
of this
pipe that
when you smoke tobacco!

is
so
white,
lily
Wherein so many take

It
at eve.
shows our decay,
We
delight,
breaks with a touch,
Man's life is such;

Think of this when you take tobacco!
The
It
pipe that
is
so foul within,
shows man's soul

It
Think
stained with sin;
is
doth require
To
be purged with
of this
fire;
when you smoke tobacco f
The
It
dust that from that pipe doth fall,

shows we are nothing but dust at all,
For we came from dust,
And
Think
The
Do
we must;
when you smoke tobacco!
return
of this
ashes that are
serve to put us
That
left
behind,
mind
all in
into dust
Return we must;
Think
of this
when you
take tobacco!
The smoke
that doth so high ascend,
Shows
man's
that
The
life
must have an end
vapour's gone,
Man's life is done;

Think of this when you take tobacco!
Thomas
D'Urfey, 1719.
4i
The
English in Virginia, Maryland, the
Barbadoes, and the Carolinas

i
607-1 700
AMESTOWN
in
Virginia
was the
actual
first
settlement of the English people in America.
The
Virginia
Company,
of
which
Sir
Edwin
Sandys was President, was formed under the

patent of King James
I.
The
first
ships sent
over arrived in 1607, at the mouth of the James

River, where a fortified village
was
built,
and
trade established with the surrounding Indians.

|SI
HVAtTI
!<!'
Figure
quality.
M.H.H]
One hundred
it.
tion,
As Captain John Smith,
Virginia Settlement," puts
"We
had
of a necessity
Preacher,
in the first expedi-
men
of
"History of the
it:
of these
wish as reliable companions.

fifty-two
came
in his delightful
many gentlemen
far too
some
colonists
a great number of them being
adventurers amongst us, and
must needs be not quite
Out
of
all
we
could
one hundred colonists there are
gentlemen adventurers besides Master Robert Hunt, the
and Masters Thomas Wotton and William Wilkinson,
the Chirurgeons.
We
had four carpenters, twelve labourers, a black-
smith, a sailor, a bricklayer, a mason, a tailor
boys and some others."

43
and a drummer, four
44
The Company
self
in
London advised each emigrant
to provide him-
with the following articles of dress:
A Monmouth
Three
One
One
Three
cap,
One
One
One
shirts,
suit of canvas,
pair of garters,
Four pairs
bands,
suit of frieze.
suit of broadcloth,
Three pairs
of shoes,
One dozen
From
falling
waistcoat,
of silk stockings,
pairs of points.
book
original prints in this
of Captain
John Smith's, we
get the costume of the gentleman adventurer, similar in style, of

course,
the
to
worn by men
garments
of rank
in
England during the reign of
James
I.
portrait of Sir
Edwin Sandys, or Sandes

as
it is
sometimes written,
is
given in Figure 13, showthe
ing
of
dress
prevailing
an English gentleman,
a brocade doublet, a lace-
trimmed
beard.
ruff,
and a pointed
The strange fashion
which was conspicuous at
King James's Court,

farthingale breeches
disfiguring
but
of
stuffing the breeches, called
on account of the resemblance
popular
reigns of Elizabeth
padding and
article of
and James
I,
fashion
to that
worn by women
was probably followed
in
most
in
the
a modified
form by these gentlemen adventurers, as the padding was supposed

to
be a protection against rapiers and arrows.

Stays were also worn by
doublets;
and
ruffs too
men
in those
days beneath long-waisted
were used, although they gradually dimin-
ished in size and stiffness (Figures
n,
15,
and
21).
Figure
13.
Portrait
of Sir
predecessor of the
Figure
Edwyn
Vandyke
Sandys, showing a turned-down
collar.
Reign of James
ruff,
the
I.
Portrait of
George Sandys, Secretary of the Virginia Colony, showand Vandyke collar. Reign of Charles I.
worn in
Reign of Charles I.
the Virginia House of Burgesses.
Figure 16. Portrait of Sir John Pennington, showing English armour and Vandyke collar. Reign of Charles I.
14.
ing slashed doublet
Figure
15.
Portrait
of Sir Isaac Pennington, showing the style of hat
47
In the portraits of the Earl and Countess of Somerset,* so often

reproduced,
time, but
may
be seen the costumes worn by the nobility of this
no radical changes
there were
in
English costume from 1550, the middle of Elizabeth's reign, until the accession of Charles I
in 1625.
If
any change
the early days of
life
Jamestown, the
Company was probably
of the
appeared
of fashion
at
in
tailor
responsible for
Figure
it,
and the old adage, "Cut your coat according
to
your cloth," was very
The
The
17.
Farthingale.
likely his inspiration.
present of a cloak of raccoon skins from
King Powhattan
Captain John Smith must have been very acceptable

Stith, the first winter
The
come
to
to
according to
was very damp and
women
first
as,
cold.
Virginia
to
were Mrs. Forrest and her maid Anne Burroughs, who, soon after her arrival, married
This was the
John Laydon.
wedding on
American
soil.f
represents the style of dress

Forrest.
cut,
first
English
Figure
Her maid's costume was
of similar
but of linsey-woolsey, with cuffs and
falling
As
band
of plain linen.
early as 162 1 the
Company
resolved
to establish a free school for children.
costumes of children given

Figure
at
21
worn by Mrs.
in
The
Figures 18
18.
Ordinary Dress of a Boy

1602-1676
Period,
this
and
23
are
taken
Dame's School
from
a picture of
in
England by A. de Bosse,
known
as "William and Mary,"
1602-1676.
In 1622 the College, afterward
was
first
talked
of,
but
it
was
in this year that occurred the horrible
* Fairholt's History of English Costume.

t History of the First Discovery and Settlement of Virginia, by William Stith.
massacre of the English by the Indians which sadly reduced their
numbers.
However, the survivors struggled valiantly on, and gradu-
comfortable houses were
ally
even for the labouring men,
built,
while the houses of the people of quality could boast of
many
con-
veniences.
was made
In 1624 an attempt
trees
which flourished
produce
to
in Virginia,
and
from the mulberry
silk
skilled
workmen were
sent
over by Nicholas Farrar from France to raise silkworms, but the

effort
was not
successful.
King James died
in
1625 and the accession of Charles I proved
a blessing to the Virginia Colony, for the new king

of
government
Edwin Sandys and
to Sir
gesses which held
its
the Virginia
left
the affairs
House
of
meetings in the church at Jamestown.
Bur-
The
Representatives coming in barges from their plantations along the

river
were usually accompanied by
embraced these opportunities

20,
2i,
to
their wives
show
and daughters, who
off their fine
apparel (Figures
Very gay and elaborate the
32, 33, 35, 36).
finery of that
period seems, even from our twentieth century standpoint.
In the body of the church, facing the choir, sat the Burgesses in
their best attire,
and doublets of
on
with starched ruffs or
in imitation of the
mons
stiff
silk or velvet in bright colours.
neckbands (Figure 22)

All sat with their hats
time-honoured custom of the House of
(Figures 15, 19, and 22).*
not approve of too general a display of fine clothing,
among many
contributions every unmarried

to
his
own
apparel,
assessed according to his
The
it
seems, for
laws passed by them was the following, to
astute
prevent extravagance in dress:
according
Com-
These same Burgesses, however, did
"Be it enacted
man must be
that for all public
assessed
own and
church
his wife's apparel."
years from 1625 to 1642 were
marked with
great prosperity
and progress, and when Berkeley was sent over with the
in
and every married man must be
Old Virginia and her Neighbours.
title
of English
W
5
x
o
C/3
w
<
O
W
M
I
Digiincd by
Google
5i
Governor, the inhabitants of Virginia numbered eighteen thousand

English and three hundred negroes.
At that time London fashions were
and seem
strictly
followed by the quality,
have been not only the chief amusement of the women,
to
moment
but matter of great
both sexes (Figures
to
14,
13,
19,
20,
3 2 33, 35, 36).

>
The
I,
fashionable costume in England during the reign of Charles
made
Vandyke, was pictur-
familiar to us by the magic brush of
esque in the extreme.
gentleman of those days wore a doublet of satin or velvet with
large loose sleeves slashed
up the
front (Figures 45, 46);
the collar
covered by a falling band of richest point-lace with the peculiar
edging
worn
now
called
Vandyke (Figures 14 and
carelessly over
when trimmed with

London
and
it
is
"peccadilles"
middle
interesting to read that the fash-
thoroughfare, Piccadilly, gets
where "peccadilles" were made and sold
Under slashed
and a short cloak
called
this pointed lace, so fashionable in the
of the seventeenth century,
ionable
16),
Bands were
one shoulder.
its
name from a shop
in the reign of
Charles
I.
doublets, loose shirts of Holland linen were worn.
(See portrait of
George Percy [Figure
the Virginia Colony.)
The
29],
second
breeches, fringed
Governor of
or pointed, met
the
tops of the wide boots (Figures 51, 55), which were ruffled with lace,
lawn, or soft leather.

rich
broad-leafed Flemish beaver hat, with a
hatband and plume of feathers (Figure
of the head,
19),
was
set
on one side
and a Spanish rapier hung from a most magnificent
baldrick or sword-belt
worn sash-wise over the
right shoulder.
In
troublous times the doublet of silk or velvet was frequently exchanged

for a buff coat (Figures 83, 84, 85, 86, 87)
sometimes embroidered with gold or

silk
in
or satin scarf tied in a large
which
case, the short cloak
silver,
bow
which was
richly laced,
and enriched by a broad
either behind or over the hip,
was perhaps dispensed with;
instances the buff jerkin without sleeves
was worn over
in
some
the doublet
52
(Figure
The beard was worn "very peaked with
87).
small up-
turned mustaches; the hair long on the neck."
George Sandys, the celebrated

President of the
Company
During
in the capacity of treasurer.
lated ten books of Ovid.
America.
The
portrait of
and the Vandyke
traveller,
a younger brother of the
London, was sent over
in
to
Jamestown
his stay in the colony,
This was the
him (Figure
first
14)
he trans-
poetical achievement in
shows the slashed doublet
collar of this reign.
gentlewoman of the same time wore
a long soft
skirt,
with a low-cut
bodice
finished with square tabs about the waist
(Figures 20, 32, 49),
below the elbow, with

lace,
sleeves
full
little
soft ruffles of
rich
a wide collar of the same lace being
worn over the shoulders but allowing the

throat
and neck
to show.
of ribbon were also
was
Soft breast-knots
much worn.
The
the shoulders in rather tight ringlets,
ranged
Figure
hair
usually curled over the brow, falling to
in
a knot at the back (Figures
and
ar-
20, 73).
Earrings were very popular in England
23.
Ordinary Dress of a Little

Girl of the Period 1602-1676
Vandyke's time, not only
in
for
for
women
but
men, as we may see by the numerous
specimens
In his famous
in his portraits.
painting of Charles I in the National Gallery in London, the King
represented with a pear-shaped pearl-drop in one ear.
is
This was the
most advantageous way of displaying a pearl of more than usual

beauty, but the origin of the fashion of piercing the lobe of the ear
has been ascribed by
was a cure
for
weak
many
eyes.
authorities to the
common
belief that
it
Tradition also associates the fashion with
be a safe
way
of carrying precious stones found in perilous adventures by land
and
navigators and seamen.
Probably
it
was thought
to

sea,
but there
is
men
fashion favoured by
Mr. Bruce,
53
not any evidence that earrings were at any time a

in the Colonies of
"Economic History
in his
America.
of Virginia," remarks:
"The
incongruity of shining apparel with the rude surroundings of

settlements in the wilderness does not seem to have jarred
perceptions of the population except so far as

expenditure, and this view
it
new
upon the
implied an unnecessary
was only taken when the resources
of the
Colony were seriously impaired.
"About
the middle of the century
a law was passed
prohibiting
the
introduction of silk in pieces except

for
hoods or
scarfs, or of silver, gold
or bone lace, or of ribbons wrought

All goods of this
in gold or silver.
brought
character
into the colonies
were confiscated and then exported."
The
tume
typical
workingman's
cos-
of this period consisted of loose
and jerkin
breeches
frieze;
of
canvas or
hose of coarse wool, shoes of
tanned leather tied in front; hat of
thrums or
felt.
"The
carpenters, the
labourers, the blacksmith, the mason,
An
and the bricklayer"
of the Virginia
Company were
all
in
dressed in this way.
The
their breeches fastened
members
work.
of the
tailor
at the
porary Print).
and the drummer may have worn
knee with points, and
Company wore aprons
Mariners,
English Mariner (from a Contem-
probability
according
to
all
these useful
of dressed leather
contemporary
authorities,
when
at
wore a
similar costume (Figure 24).
Randle Holmes, another contemporary authority, gives the following picture of a countryman in 1660, showing that the hat, doublet,
54
and short breeches of the reign of James

districts of
England as
were worn
country
in
late as the Restoration; the short
breeches
probably being of leather and the hose of stout woolen cloth.
Bishop
"church
Coleman
tells
us that
Jamestown Settlement
the
in
English
services, according to the
ritual,
were held daily by
the Reverend Robert Hunt, formerly rector
Soon
after the arrival
of the Colonists sent over
by the Virginia
of a living in Kent.
Company,
an
in 1607,
altar
under the shade of the

the
emigrants gladly attended
bration of the
Maryland
to
English
Massachusetts
in 1623;
Lord Baltimore
1629;
in
and
the cele-
Holy Communion.
churchmen came
to
was erected
forest trees,
wrote that four clergymen of the Church

of
England were
in
his
province with
decent maintenance in 1676."
were very expensive
pounds
them
price paid for
in Virginia,
and probably
they were not available
in every parish.
Regular services were held
|M>0.
Figure
5000
was the
of tobacco
three of
Surplices
in the Colonies;
in
New
Eng-
land in 1638, in South Carolina in 1660,
25.
Countryman in Doublet (from a

print by Randle Holmes, 1660).
in
New York
1678,
These dates are quoted
to
and
show that
in
in 1674, in
New
Pennsylvania
in the
Jersey in
in
1694*
English Colonies, under
English rule, the clergy wore, as in England, the customary dress of

the period:
a black coat (ancestor of the cassock),
the knee, silk hose fastened with points, a soft

plain stock or falling
bands and a
close
band
for
full
breeches to
brimmed
hat,
and
outdoor wear; the white surplice with
cap of black
silk
or velvet in church.
* History of the Amcriran Church.
Bishops

ordinarily
wore the usual
Out-of-doors long
full
55
full-sleeved white robes with black stoles.
cloaks were
worn
universally for protection from
the weather.
Figure
Soldier in Cuirass
26.
and Morion (from an Old English
Hard, indeed, must have been the
Print, Seventeenth Century).
lives of the
pioneer clergy of
every denomination in America before 1700, and in remote parts
56
they were probably constrained to wear whatever they could have
made
The
home.
at
general outlines of the accepted dress of the
times, given here, are based

details will
be found
Close-fitting black caps
of all denominations.
or preaching
upon
were worn habitually by the clergymen
gown was adopted by Non-conformists,
The Roman
Catholic Church
whom
of the people with
was represented
Order was sent from there
Parish of
St.
Joseph
in that city,
When
to
settled in
But
this did not
happen
1633 by Lord Baltimore, whose ambition
found a commonwealth
might escape the oppressive

in
and founded the
are told that he entered the
731.
Maryland was
was
active
Father Greaton of the
to Philadelphia
we
Province of Penn in the dress of a Quaker.*

1
by the
chiefly
Maryland was the
they sojourned.
centre of Catholicism in the Colonies.
until
Presbyterian
in all the Colonies.
a missionary priesthood, who habitually adopted the dress
Jesuits,
Jesuit
quoted.
Instead of the white surplice, the black Geneva
and Puritan divines
ministers
Further
careful historical research.
in the authorities
England.
servants,
He
in the Colonies
legislation to
where
Roman
Catholics
which they were subjected
brought with him his wife, children, and
and following the English customs
many
of living, naturally brought
over the prevailing costumes of his day.
That armour was sometimes worn by the

is
given in the early records.
Jamestown
it is
stated,
among
Colonists,
In the archives of the
ample proof
colony of
first
the proceedings of the Virginia
pany, that
100
Brigandines, alias plate coats
Jacks of mail
40
Jerkins or shirts of mail
400
2000
Skulls
Calivers and other pieces, belts, halberts, swords,

* History of
Old
St. Joseph's, Philadelphia,
by Martin
I. J.
Griffin.
Com-
Figure
27.
Silver
frontlet,
bearing the English coat-of-arms, given to the Queen
Pamunkeys by Charles
of the
Figure
Figure
II.
Silver mace used in the Virginia House of Burgesses.

Portrait of George Percy, second Governor of Virginia,
28.
29.
showing
the full shirt of Holland linen customarily worn under slashed doublets,
and the Vandyke collar and cuffs of Charles I's reign.
Figure 30. Steel vambrace dug up near Jamestown, and preserved by the Historical Society at Richmond, Virginia.
Digill/od by
Google
59
were sent out from London upon request of the Burgesses, July
1622.
In the Historical
Society at
Richmond, portions
vambrace are preserved which were dug up
at
17,
of a steel
Jamestown
in
1861
(Figure 30).
At the time
had gone out
of the first
of use,
Colony
Figure
in
America, heavy plate armour
and back and breast
plates with overlapping
31.
Doublet of Satin Trimmed with a Narrow Galloon and Points of the Same Colour with
Padded Lining, 1600-25 (R e 'g n of James I).
tuilles
or tassetts to protect the thighs, and helmets for the head,
were generally worn.
Whole
suits of
armour may have been worn
on occasions, but so great had been the improvement

that
armour was no longer a safeguard, according
in the
time of Charles
I,
stout buff coats thick
in
firearms
to Fairholt,
enough
and
to resist a
6o
sword
thrust,
under a cuirass and a gorget (Figures 88,
affording special
and breeches and boots
metal,
uniform of the
from
of tough leather,
The armour
soldier.
that part of the
buff coats (Figures
and
86,
83, 84, 85,
87),
of Virginia," printed in Force's Tracts,
England
and drawings of a
tional, are
directly
announced
upon the
of one, Sir
of
in
The
great ad-
and even educa-
glowing terms, and one citation at least bears
history of costume.
and causes
flax,
which shows the inducements
resources, agricultural
its
John Harvey, the author
hemp and
78).
Perfect Description
to bring people to the Colony.
vantages of the country,
Pictures of
saddle.
"A
an anonymous pamphlet called
is
set forth in
judging
officer,
legs being encased in steel, at least
body not hidden by the
pikeman and a musketeer are given (Figures 26 and

There
and 90)
helmet of
formed the customary
mounted
of a
89,
chest, a
on old English tombs and from prints of the day, was
effigies
more formidable, the arms and

all
and
for the throat
protection
it
to
In describing the fine house
"He
says:
sows yearly stores
be spun, he keeps weavers, and
hath a tan house, causes leather to be dressed, hath eight shoemakers
employed
in their trade."
After the execution of
King Charles
I,
Cavaliers of England sought a haven of
Maryland.
They were
distinguished families
We
realize
how
the prosperous,
Bacon
followed by
who
a great
refuge
many
many
in
of
the
Virginia and
other representatives of
could not brook the rule of Cromwell.
luxurious
life in
when we read
that
Virginia had already
become
Governor Berkeley (against
rebelled in 1675) retired to his rural estate of
for
whom
"Green Spring"
near Jamestown from 1652 to 1660, where he had an orchard of more
apples, pears, peaches, and apricots
than two thousand
and a
fruit trees
stable of seventy fine horses.
ing Cavalier guests

called to
Jamestown as Governor.
remained a year.
Here he
and drinking healths
to
lived in ease, entertain-
King Charles,
In 1661 he went to
until re-
London and
While there he saw the performance of
his play,

"The Lost Lady,"
described by Pepys in his diary.
61
This play con-
tained the following mention of the costumes of the day:

" Observe with
me how
in that
deep band,
Short cloak, and his great boots, he looks
Three
stories high,
and
his
head
is
Garret where he keeps nothing but
Horse matches and some designs
In the
much
first
waistband of the loose breeches, the

sleeves
was
falling collar
crowned hat with plume
of
worn
which hung over the
shirt,
latter as well as the large full
were ornamented with points and "ribbands" (Figures 29 and
The
68).
lists
part of the reign of Charles II, doublets were
and opened over a Holland
shorter
the
for his next clothes."
also of lace.
With
this
costume a high-
was sometimes worn (Figure
of feathers
19).
year or so later the fashion of petticoat breeches, trimmed with
"many rows
of loops of ribbon overlapping like shingles,"
vogue for a short time (Figure 68).
much
peared in the street of Boston with this fantastic garb,
astonishment of the pedestrians,

lar style
Probably
are told.
was more popular with the gayer Colonists
the Carolinas,
Later
we
who
in the
came
into
Creedon ap-
certain Captain
to the
this particu-
in Virginia
and
kept in touch with the Court fashions.
same reign (Charles
"the doublet was worn
II)
much
longer with sleeves to the elbows, finished with hanging ribbands
from under which the

the doublet
ruffled sleeves of the shirt
became transformed
of apparel provided for the
material
is
King
into a coat,
in
For a few years extending
worn with
out."
Thus
an inventory
Neck-cloths were
close of this reign.

into the reign of
reaching to the knees and closely buttoned

fashion.
in
1679, a complete suit of one
mentioned as "coat and breeches."
worn toward the
hung
and
James
down
II,
a long coat
the front
came
into
Full breeches hanging in full folds over the garters were

this style of coat (Figures 137
"The gowns
of the ladies of
the
and
138).
English Court at this period
62
were cut very low, with slashed
and jewels"* (Figures
20,
sleeves,
and were trimmed with
Long
32 and 49).
elbow were worn with low cut dresses (Figures 33 and
The
fashion of wearing patches
reign of Charles
They
and continued
I,
came
George
until
have
ladies
35).
towards the end of the
in
vogue
in
"Our
are mentioned in 1650.
lace
gloves reaching to the
Ill's day.
lately entertained
vain custom of spotting their faces out of affectation of a mole, to
beauty such as Venus had; and
set off their
patch
make
will serve to
is
it
well
their faces remarkable, for
manner
faces full of them, varied into all
if
one black
some
fill
their
Patches are
of shapes."
associated with the fashion of powdering the hair (1 720-1 778), but
when Mrs. Pcpys was permitted by her husband
we have
word
his
likely that the

lines,
for
extreme of
was seen
this fashion, as described in
Her patches
all
satirical
for scars.
the wandering planets' signs
And some of the fixed stars;

Already gummed to make them
They need no other sky."
stick
seventeenth century author gives the following concise definition
which
of the muff,
"A
figures so frequently in English portraits of the
worn
fur
them warm.
winter in which to put the hands to keep
in
Muffs were formerly only
The
day they are carried by men.

the
It is not
Bulwer's
are of every cut,
For pimples or
Here's
day:
wear a patch
in the Colonies:
"
to
that she looked "very pretty."
it
common
The
of miniver.
of otter
and
herself.
muffs."
It is
of tiger.
muff-dog
for
women:
muffs are
at the present
made
of martin,
country muffs of the cavaliers are
A woman
is
finest
little
made
puts her nose in her muff to hide
dog which
ladies
not easy to imagine the pioneer
can carry in their
men
of the Colonies
carrying muffs; in fact even a Patroon would have found one sadly
Book
of
Costume by a Lady
of
Rank.
(London, 1846.)

when "a musket with
inconvenient in the days
was
his constant
when
ever,
life
companion.
Towards
and Mary's reign afforded
of comparative luxury, the fashion at

in the Colonies
powder"
the end of the century, how-
the peaceful days of William
was followed
63
six shoots of
height in England
its
by men as well as by women, with
whom
muffs have ever been deservedly popular (Figure 36).
Mr. Fiske, speaking
of
Virginia hospitality at that early date,
suggests that "in the time of Bacon's Rebellion
would have appeared, perhaps,
(1675) your host
a coat and breeches of olive
in
plush or dark red broadcloth, richly embroidered waistcoat, shirt

long silk stockings, silver buttons and
of holland,
lace ruffles
about neck and
wrists,
and
his
flowing wig; while the lady of the house might have

satin bodice
silk
trimmed with
shoe
worn a crimson
point-lace, a black tabby petticoat,
Her
hose with shoes of fine leather, gallooned.
earrings,
monds, and
a pearl necklace, finger rings
to carry
set
and
lace head-dress
would be secured with a gold bodkin, and she would be
wear
buckles,
head encumbered with a
likely to
with rubies or dia-
a fan."
This description may be very nearly correct of the man's dress

in regard to colour
is
of a later period.
and material, but the
To
the feminine
complete the costume of the lady.

the time
show the bodice and
reign of
James
II
gimp (Figures
ginia.
We
skirt of the
same
still
petticoat sometimes
material,
up
to the.
matching the bodice

richly
trimmed with
and
36).
The
who had
Carolina settlements date from 1650.
Colonists of these Southern
seen something of Court
to
instance, all the pictures of
19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 32, 33, 35,
1,
The Barbadoes and
selves with comforts
For
after that a long skirt
was looped over a gay

lace or
style of the coat described
mind a few items are needed
ports",
life in
being mostly Cavaliers
London, very soon surrounded them-
and luxuries unknown
to the first-comers in Vir-
read that the Barbadoes Colony resembled a
in itself, the planters maintaining large households

* Old Virginia and Her Neighbours.
little
and many
Court
slaves.
64
There was frequent intercourse with the settlements
an English
following description of the articles of dress
Mr. Bruce's "Economic History

considered typical of
"The
all
of Virginia," but
be reasonably
of holland, blue linen, lockram, dowlas
holland representing
to the quality desired;
The buttons used

many cases were
the most costly and canvas the least expensive.

shirt
quoted from
is
may
English Colonies in America from 1660 to 1700:
was made
shirt
and canvas, according
on the
and
Figure 104 depicts a gentleman of the same date.
throne of England.
The
in Virginia
The brocade gown in the frontispiece was the property of

lady who came to Barbadoes when James II was on the
Maryland.
were either of
silver or pewter,
and
in
carefully gilded.
"The
stockings were either of
The
worsted or yarn.
leather, or they
51, 53,
steel
and
were of the
The
55).
"The
his
50, 54,
and
to
pass
much
of
57).
periwig was worn in the latter part of the century (Figures
merchant
cap, the
to boots, the popular
who were accustomed
on horseback (Figures
135, 140,
"The
of ordinary
as French Falls (Figures 19,
shoe buckles were manufactured of brass,
footwear of the planters,
134,
known
men were made
There are many references
or silver.
their time
sort
woolen or cotton thread,
silk,
shoes worn by
and
in
141).
In 1689 William Byrd forwarded one to
London with
instructions to have
covering for the heads of

felt,
the beaver or castor,
men
it
altered.
consisted of the
and the straw
Monmouth
hat, occasionally
with a steeple crown.
"The
neck-cloth, or cravat,
muslin or the
either of
finest holland.
linen or
lace, in
was
of blue linen,
The band
calico,
or falling collar
dowlas,
was made
keeping with the character of the suit
(Figures 16 and 82).
"The
material
fustian, drugget,
of
and
the
serge,
coat
ranged
from
which became
less
broadcloth,
camlet,
expensive with
the
progress of the century, to cotton, kersey, frieze, canvas, and buckskin.
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When
are
of broadcloth,
it
was
numerous references
67
lined with calico or coarse linen.
and the smock, and
to the stuff coat,
There
to the
serge or linen jacket (Figure 48).
"The outer garment used in riding was usually a cloak of camlet.

The buttons of the coat and waistcoat were made of various materials,
from
thread to brass and pewter,
silk
"Over
the
gimp and mohair.
silver,
ordinary coat, a great-coat of frieze was worn
cold weather, or, on special occasions, a substitute
cloak of blue or scarlet
"Waistcoats
in
was found
in
in
silk.
1679 were
made of dimity, cotton
or drugget, flannel
or penistone, of a great variety of colours, white, black,
and blue being
the most popular.
"The
for
breeches for dress occasions were of plush or broadcloth;
ordinary wear, of linen,
There are references
common
worsted, with thread
lined with linen or
limanco breeches with hair buttons.

of plush,
drugget,
oured
canvas or leather.
and
buttons,
broadcloth, kersey or canvas, or the coat
suits
also to cal-
Occasionally the whole suit was
and the waistcoat and breeches
of
was made
silk,
Gloves were
lace, or blue linen.
of yarn, or of tanned ox-, lamb-, buck-, dog-, or sheepskin,
were of
of
Olive col-
stuff cloth.
were very popular.
"Handkerchiefs were of
made
ticking,
in inventories of the period to serge breeches,
local manufacture.
The hands
of children
were kept
and
warm
by mittens."
It
was the habit
and simplest
of the wealthy planters to have even their plainest
articles of clothing
made
in
of Stafford County, Virginia, instructed his
1697, to send
him two
suits of
England.
merchant
The
The
given as to the two hats ordered
lists
in
for use in
exact measurements for the
shoes and stockings needed were to be guessed
be of the largest
London,
an ordinary character, one
winter and the other in summer.
direction
Mr. Fitzhugh,
in
was
at,
and the only
that
they should
size.
sent out to
England show that
costly
garments were
68
Many
imported for the planters' wives.

ginia
same
the
gowns worn
of the
in Vir-
must have been as handsome as those worn by the women of
There are numerous allusions
class in England.
and flowered gowns,
brocade and
to bodices of velvet
to silk
trimmed
satin,
with lace (Figures 32 and 49).

Petticoats were of serge,
cloth.
silk
They were
trimmed with
silk
or tabby, a kind of coloured
flannel,
made
also
or silver lace.
and
of printed linen or dimity
An
green
stockings,
woolen
petticoat,
and
composed
of
gown,
outfit of
materials,
mentioned
is
frequently
in the inventories.
For outdoor wear, women

all
of
ranks wore hoods and mantles.
The hoods were made
of camlet,
sarsenet, or velvet, often
trimmed
with fur (Figures 34, 35, 36, 40,

67, 69, 128, 129,
and
mantles of
(Figure
silk
tippets of
fur
and
were
129)
144).
The
128) or
(Figures 47,
69,
worn over
the
shoulders.
Hose
'S.
varied
very
much
in
scarlet,
or
-S.J.!V.
FlCURE
Back View
of
Outdoor Dress (from a Con
black.
temporary Print).
Shoes of the
36).
Wooden
by
finest quality
shoes with
144).
Small fans,
many
They were
held in place
silk garters.
were either laced or gallooned (Figure
wooden
Aprons were of muslin,
and
being white,
colour,
34.
heels were also worn.
silk, serge,
of
and blue
which were
richly
duffel (Figures 35
ornamented, were
favourite items of dress in the toilets of planters' wives (Figure 20),
and
silver
and
gilt
stomachers were not unknown.
were imported and used
in the
English Colonies.
Perfumed powders
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About
66 1,
ginia, furnished
"A
coat,
scarf,
we
young English lady
are told, a
with the following articles of clothing:
pair of shoes."
"The wardrobe
of a rich planter's wife in Virginia, Mrs.
petticoat of India silk

calico petticoat,
Sarah
silk petticoat,
and a worsted prunella, a striped linen and a
a black
gown, a
silk
scarlet waistcoat with silver
a white knit waistcoat, a striped stuff jacket, a worsted pru-
nella mantle,
a sky-coloured
bodices, three fine

chiefs,
The whole was
valued at fourteen pounds
of another Virginia lady, Mrs. Frances Pritchard,
as extensive.
coat, petticoats of
silver
included an olive-coloured silk petti-
It
and flowered tabby,
gown
striped dimity, a printed calico
striped dimity,
pair of
bodice, a pair of red paragon
shillings.
"The wardrobe
quite
satin
and three coarse holland aprons, seven handker-
and two hoods.
and nineteen
was
petti-
gloves, a long riding scarf,
Willoughby, consisted of a red, a blue, and a black
lace,
out for Vir-
white sarsenet and a ducape hood, a white flannel
two green aprons, three pairs of
mask and a
7i
set
holland
a black
silk
sleeves
of velvet,
and
of white
lined with blue silk, a white
waistcoat, a pair of scarlet sleeves, a
with
a Flanders lace band, one
ruffles,
cambric and three holland aprons,
five
cambric handkerchiefs, and
several pairs of green stockings."*
Aprons were
at least
on one occasion conspicuous
Although some historians discredit the episode,
tume we can hardly omit the
story of
whom
white-aproned row to screen his
men
he compelled to stand
woman
of consequence
in
while they worked on the en-
trenchments, as a protection from the Burgesses,
every
articles of dress.
a history of cos-
Bacon's very ungallant behav-
iour to the ladies of Jamestown,
without injury to the women.
in
We may
who
could not shoot
at least safely conclude that
was expected
to
have a white apron
in her wardrobe.
* Brace's Economic History of Virginia.
72
The
laces,
favourite ornaments of
was customary
and
women
to leave
One
friends.
mourning rings
lady,
were pearl neck-
among
It
a large number of relatives
to
Mrs. Elizabeth Digges,
that eight should be distributed

circle.
at this time
gold pendants and earrings, and rings of various kinds.
the
in her will desired
members
of her intimate
gentleman of Middlesex bequeathed twenty-five pounds
sterling for
pounds of
the purchase
this
sum were
the
of rings of
to
same character;
sixteen
be expended in such as would cost one
guinea apiece.
rich planter of
possession of
Lower Norfolk County,
"a sapphire
set in gold,
another with a green stone, and another
two hollow wrought
mourning
As
rings, a
diamond
were very
was
still
with a yellow stone,
ring with several sparks, a
costly,
a Frenchman, named Jacques,
He
invented a substitute for them in this century (seventeenth).
had observed that the water
in
which small
had been washed, contained a quantity

filling
in
and an amber necklace."
ring, a beryl set in silver,
real pearls
at his death,
one ring with a blue stone,
fish, called
"ablettes,"
of silver}' particles,
and by
hollow blown glass beads with this sediment, he succeeded in
producing an admirable imitation but about twenty thousand white;
bait
were required to supply one pound of
Small gold and
silver
this essence of pearls.*
bodkins were used by the wives of the
planters for the purpose of keeping the head-dress in place.
Plantation
life,
even toward the end of the century, gave but few
opportunities for display.
There were no towns where, as
at Wil-
liamsburg in the following century, the leading families might gather

at certain seasons
and show
church of the parish was the
was
off
their fashionable costumes.
social centre of
there that fine clothes could be exhibited
weddings and other
festal meetings, the
It
on Sundays, while
at
most costly
were worn.
* History of Fashion in France.
The
each community.
suits
and dresses

The
place,
was a notable
feature of colonial
life.
one of those rural establishments
for sale in
73
which every planter of importance maintained on his
store,
A
is
list
of the articles
almost as varied as
the advertisement of one of our city department stores to-day.
Hubbard
instance, the
York County
store in
Lockram, canvas, dowlas, Scotch
and
cotton, holland serge, kersey
women
Hammers,
dress.
blue linen, oznaburg,
laces
shoes, gloves, hose, cravats,
handkerchiefs, hats and

of
cloth,
flannel in bales, full suits for adults
and youths; bodices, hoods and

for
For
in 1667 contained:
other articles
hatchets, chisels,
augers, locks, staples, nails, sickles, bellows,
saws,
irons,
knives,
saucepans,
ringers,
tongs,
forks,
flesh
frying-pans,
shovels,
hoes,
porgrid-
iron-pots,
tables, physic, wool-cards, gimlets,
com-
passes, needles, stirrups, looking-glasses,
candlesticks, candles, funnels, 25
pounds
of raisins, 100 gallons of brandy, 20 gal-
lons of wine, 10 gallons of aqua vita.
The
contents
of
this
valued at 614 sterling, a
store
was
sum which
Figure
represented about $1 5 ,000 in our present
37.
Peddler (from an old Print)-
currency.
Mr. Fiske
says:
"One
can imagine
how
dazzling to the youthful
eyes must have been the miscellaneous variety of desirable things.
Not only were
the manufactured articles pretty sure to have
from England, but everything
else, to
English, insomuch that fanciers used to

to
England,
It
if
come
be saleable, must be labelled

sell
the songsters
unknown
they sang particularly well, as English mocking birds."
was the habit
of the early Virginia planters
to purchase silver plate in
England.
from time to time
This they looked upon as a
74
sort of
wealth which could never lose
and pieces
value,
its
have
plate engraved with the crest of the original owner,
down
cases been handed
and
Candlesticks
day.
of such
many
in
as family heirlooms, even to the present

castors
snuffers,
sugar,
for
and
pepper,
beakers are frequently mentioned in the
mustard, saltcellars and
wills of the latter part of the seventeenth century.
In one instance dishes weighing eighty and ninety ounces apiece
and a case containing a dozen
silver-hafted
silver-hafted forks are
A^X^^ê
sixty
and
rela-
nal
374-
Drawn from an
Monmouth Cap
read
also
among
instruments
shown
the
of
musical
following
the household goods of the
Origi-
richer planters: Virginals, hand-lyres, cornets,
at the
Monm uth
Hal1
silver, etc., are
in Figure 159.
We
Figure
silver plate to her friends
Specimens of old
tives.
V^*-**25***^
Mrs. Eliza-
ketn Digges bequeathed two hundred and

ounces of
jfl^îi^^^^
^^^r^^sK^^Rt
knives and a dozen
specified.
'
violins, recorders, flutes,
'
wait
and hautboys.
In the kitchen, various utensils were in use,

being
made
of brass, tin, pewter,
Another feature of colonial
from plantation
travelled
wood,
clay,
was
life
a welcome from the people of every
quarters, for his

suit all
"
needs and
Lawn
fireside to the
pack contained,
always sure of
from the mistress and
maids and men
snow
Gloves as sweet as damask roses;

for faces
He was
in the servants'
like that of Autolycus,
Cypress black as e'er was crow;
Masks
class,
wares to
tastes.
as white as driven
and
who
to plantation carrying the latest fashions
and, oftentimes, the latest piece of gossip.
master at the hall
and copper.
the itinerant peddler,
for noses;
Pins and poking-sticks of
Bugle-bracelet, necklace-amber,
Perfume for a lady's chamber;

Golden quoifs and stomachers,
For
my
lads to give their dears;
steel;
What maids lack from head to heel

Come buy of me, come; come buy, come buy;
Buy lads, or else your lasses cry: come, buy."
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There
Indians.
is
much
not
to be said
77
about dress among the American
However, the costume of the Queen of the Pamunkeys, who
accompanied her husband, Totto Potto Moi,
a conference with
to
the English in Virginia,
and who was a lady
worthy of description.
She wore a turban made of a wide
black and white
of
wampum
of
some
and her robe was
distinction, is
plait
of deerskin, with
the hair on the outside, ornamented (from the shoulders to the feet)
An
with a twisted fringe six inches deep.
effective
but rather an un-
comfortable dress for the season, as this conference took place in
May
(1677).
The King
of the
Pamunkeys was afterward
Edward
the English under Colonel
Hill.
killed in fighting with
His wife, the Queen, made
an appeal to the House of Burgesses, whereupon Charles II sent

her, in recognition of her husband's services,
a red
many
chains.
During the
Pamunkeys determined
the
to
stress of weather, and, also,
it
his
plantation.
by presenting
ure,
which
Upon
frontlet, to
which were
part of the year 1800,
latter
move westward, and, being under

is
supposed, lacking food, came to
Mr. Arthur Morson, who gave them

on
velvet cap with a silver plate as
attached
to
a crown consisting of
leaving,
shelter
and protection
they expressed
for
their
a time
gratitude
their benefactor with this crown, their greatest treas-
still
existed in the original shape.
The cap becoming
in
time moth-eaten, the chains lost and scattered, the Administrator

of the
Morson Estate
sold the frontlet to the Association
Preservation of Virginia Antiquities, and

cal Society's
rooms
it
was placed
for
the
in the Histori-
for safe-keeping (Figure 27).
For descriptions and pictures of the native Indians, the reader

is
referred to
life
Schoolcraft's exhaustive history, which illustrates the
and customs
of the various tribes in
North America from the
landing of Columbus to the middle of the nineteenth century.*

* History of the Indian Tribes of the United States, by lienry
Rowe Schoolcraft, LL.D.
THE ENGLISH COLONIES

IN
MASSACHUSETTS, CONNECTICUT,
HAMPSHIRE, MAINE, AND
RHODE ISLAND
1620-1700
During the Reigns of
James
I,
Charles
I,
Charles II, James II, and
William and Marv
NEW
"A Dosen of
Points, Sent by a
Gentlewoman to her lover
YEARE'S GlFTE."
As
on a
New
Yeare's day
Did walcke amidst the
streate,
My
restless eyes for you my

Did seke a fayring mete.
hart,
I sercht throughout the faire
But nothing could I fynde:

No, no, of all ther was not one
That would content my mynde.

But all the boothes were filled
With fancyes fond attyre,
And
trifling
toyes were set to sale,
For them that would requyre.
Then to myself quoth I,

What meanes theise childish knacks;
made,
Is all the faire for children
Or
Are
fooles that babies lackes?
theise the goodly gifts,
The new yeare to beginne;

Which friends present unto their
Their fayth and love
came
I se I
My
I will
labour
all is lost,
departe and kepe
From making any

But
se
friends,
winne?
to
in vayne,
my happy
my
purse,
cost.
chaunce,
Whilest I did hast away;
Dame
My
Vertue doth display her booth,

hasty feete to stay.
I joyfull of the sight,
Did preace unto the place,

se the tricke and trimmed
To
tent,
For such a ladye's grace.
And
after I had viewed

Eache thing within her
seate,
as a
Newe
82

I
found a knotte of peerlcsse points

Beset with posyes neate.
Theise points
in
number
Did shew themselves
The
twelve,
to be:
sence whereof by poet's
skil,
I will declare to the.
1.
With meate before the
2.
Be
3.
Let word,
set,
Suffice but nature's scant;
sure thy tongue at table tyme,
Noe
sober talke doe want.

let
thought, and dede,
In honest wise agree:

4.
5.
And loke the pore in tyme

Thy helping hand may
When
of nede,
see.
foes invade the realme,
Then shew thy might and strength:

6.
Tell truth in place
7.
Be
For falshed
fast
wher thou dost come
failes at length.
and firm
to friende,
10.
As thou wouldst him to be:

Be shamefast there wher shamefull dedes
Be offred unto the.
Weare not suche costly clothes,
As are not for thy state:
Heare eache man's cause as thoh he wer
11.
In place thy maners shewe,
12.
From the let peace and quietnesse,

And wars from others ryse.
8.
9.
In wealth thine equall mate.

In right and comly wyse:
With these twelve vertuous points,

Se thou do tye thee round,
And lyke and love this simple gifte,
Till better may be found.
Yet one point thou dost lacke,
To
tye thy hose before:
Love me as I love
From hence
the,
and
shall
for evermore.
Farwell.
The
English in Massachusetts, Connecticut,
New
Hampshire, Maine,
and Rhode Island
1620-1700
1620 came the
English
first
Massa-
settlers to
chusettsthe Pilgrims, or Separatists, as they

are sometimes called, in their sombre coloured
garments, of the same shapes and fashions,
however, as those in vogue at the gay court of

Charles
I,
the superfluous trimmings, knots of
bright ribbon, rich laces
and
feathers, being
conspicuously absent.
In this
Figure
43.
company
of
one hundred and four
Pilgrims, which arrived at Plymouth,
Dame.
Puritan
Decem-
ber 20, 1620, were the following:
Two
carpenters
One
One
fustian
lady's
worker and
silk
dyer
maid
and publishers
One wool-carder
One cooper
One merchant
Two printers
Four seamen
One
One
soldier
Two
tradesmen
tailor
The
Pilgrims, like the
to discourage extravagance,
of dress.
Three years
the Massachusetts
first
at
Roundheads
and made
later they
adult servants
lay reader
hatter
physician
smith
in
England, were minded
strict
laws to control fashions
were followed by the Puritans of
Bay Company, who, according
Cape Ann and afterward removed
was a large and
Ten
One
One
One
One
rich organization
suitable outfit:
83
to
to Salem.
Weedon,
settled
This Company
and provided each man with a
84
Four
Four
pairs of shoes
pairs of stockings
A leather belt
A woolen cap
A black hat
pair of
Four
Norwich
gaiters
shirts
Two suits of doublet and
Two red knit caps

Two pairs of gloves
A mandillion or cloak lined with cotton
hose of
leather lined with oil skin
woolen
with leather
suit lined
green cotton waistcoat
Four bands
and an extra pair
of breeches
Two
allotted each
man
(Figure 44).
handkerchiefs
There were many women

tion
is
made
This
Virginia
in this
band of
of their garments.
outfit
but no men-
was much more
Company, but
settlers,
were
liberal
than that provided by the
the climate of Massachusetts
was bleak and
cold compared with that of Virginia, although the air apparently agreed
who wrote
with Francis Higginson,
the following letter from Boston
in 1629:
"But
since I
perfect health
came
and
I,
hither on this voyage I thank
together neither durst leave off the same, have
and do wear none

I clothed
warm
now
cast
have had
many
years
away my
cap,
day time; and whereas beforetime
at all in the
myself with double clothes and thick waistcoats to keep
even in
wearing a
God
that have not gone without a cap for
summer
time, I
light stuff cassock
me
do now go as thin clad as any, only
upon
my
shirt
and
stuff
breeches of one
thickness without lining."
This company
of Puritans,
which numbered about two hundred,
eventually founded Boston and other places in the neighbourhood:
Charlestown, Watertown, Dorchester, Roxbury, Mystic, Lynn,
They kept
in
touch with the Mother Country and imported
comforts, which the Plymouth
About 1630 a body
Bay Company eschewed.
of this Massachusetts
Bay Company, com-
posed chiefly of yeomen of Dorsetshire, England,

icut.
They were mostly Church
sentative Anglo-Saxon type,
etc.
many
and
of
in their
concerning dress, although at the
settled in
England people
dawn
laws
we
of
Connect-
the repre-
find few restrictions
of the Revolution the people'

among
of Connecticut were
luxuries
foreign
the
first
85
of the Colonists to renounce
and augment the use
homemade
of
articles.
We
read that "master-tailors were paid 12 pence, inferior 8 pence per

day, with dyett."
In
Mas-
the
1634,
sachusetts Court forbade
purchase
the
"Any
of
either
apparell,
woolen,
or lynnen with any
silke,
lace
on
silk,
or thread."
it,
silver, golde,
buy slashed
They
"make
not
shall
or
clothes, other
than one slashe in each
and another
sleeve
backe"; there
works,
"cutt
in the
shall
be no
imbroid'd
or needle work'd capps,
&
bands
no
Rayles;
gold or silver girdles, hatt
bands,
belts, ruffs,
beaver
hatts."
In 1636 lace was
of
linen
small
Figure
for-
bidden; only the binding
edging
on
44.
Puritan Cloak or Mandillion of Black Silk with
Embroidered Buttons. The original garment

from which the drawing is taken is in the South Kensington Museum, London.
Small
was allowed.
Points were the usual fastenings in use during the sixteenth and
seventeenth centuries.
Sometimes they had metal tags
and were more or
ornamental.
less
Frequent mention
them by Shakespeare:
"Their points being broken, down
"With one
fell
that ties his points," etc.
their
hose;"
at the
is
ends
made
of
86
Like
the
their successors,
modern suspenders, they were
often
very dainty and were appropriately given as love tokens.
Margaret Winthrop,
in
England written from Massa-
letter to
"I must
chusetts, gives a note of daily wear:
me
gown
to
make
strong black stuff and Mr. Smith to
now
in use.
my
If
directions about
note,
it
sister
Downing would
he would make
it,
proves that
it
of the civilest fashion
it
Governor Winthrop
in
terity,
strict
The
left to
that
familiar
Puritans (Figure 93).
portrait of his wife has been
and we are
black stuff" to
is this
not indifferent to the pre-
a ruff and long hair indicates that
he had not adopted the dress of the
no
him some
Slight as
time were dressed as in Figures 21, 32, 33, 35, and 36.
fortunately,
of good
and we know that English gentlewomen of
vailing fashions,
portrait of
me
please to give
the better."*
Dame Winthrop was
make
of a necessity
wear every day and would have one bought
handed down
Un-
to pos-
conjecture that the dress of "good strong
"wear every day" was made
of durant, something
after the fashion of Figure 21, or, perhaps, like that of the Puritan
gentlewoman
in the initial letter of this chapter,
a typical Puritan of the Massachusetts
Abundant evidence
in the reigns of
of Hollar.
of the various styles of dress of English
Charles I and II
They
which represents
Bay Company.
is
women
preserved in the clever sketches
are invaluable to the historian.
Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-1677) went from Cologne and Antwerp

to
London
in 1635,
in the train of the Earl of Arundel, English
and was appointed teacher
afterwards Charles
II.
volume
of
drawing
of sketches
to the
Ambassador,
young Prince,
by the royal
pupil, to
which Hollar had given the finishing touches, may be seen among
the Harleian
manuscripts at the British
Museum.
peared his "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or the

of English
Women
from the Nobilitiee
to
In
the Country
they are in these times."

* Margaret Winthrop, by Mrs. Earle.
1640 ap-
Severall
Habits
Women
as
*.h
K|
r E
>
-r
ill
*
"3
a.
s
2
in
.fl
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<n
W 3
6
o 2
i2 J=
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u
o
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fi
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to
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9 v
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8
w
2
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60
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1
u
n >
O J3
w
s"
c
o i
g
* g
"S
nc io
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2
to
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8
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S3
8 E
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w 1
o 3
W
-O
c
1 .9
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% -
-c
"
p E W
I*
.60
Digitized by
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89
In 1643 appeared a second book, "Theatrum Mulierum,"
in
which are represented the various
On
nations of Europe.
dress in the leading
of
styles
Hollar was
the accession of Charles II,
appointed His Majesty's Designer.
His books are now very

of the British
women
may
do not know
of
be seen in the Library
any
in
a public library
The "Theatrum Mulierum" shows
in this country.
of the
Copies
rare.
Museum, but
the costumes
of Holland in the seventeenth century, specimens of
which are given
in Figures 106, 107,
no,
and
124,
126.
In the Colony at Plymouth a manifesto against long hair was

published, in which
practice for
An
hair.
it
an impious custom and a shameful
called
What
His
creature's this
The
The
Oh
new
this
faith
with his short hair,
has founded ?
Puritans were never such,

Saints themselves
had
much
ne'er so
such a knave's a Roundhead."
majority of the Puritans, however, were very
on the subject of reform
in dress,
and
their piety not only in the choice of

cut,
wear long
thus:
band, and huge long ears,
little
That
least care of his soul to
Roundhead Puritans runs
old song about the

"
The
was
any man who had the
it
much
in earnest
has been said they expressed
sombre hues and simplicity of
but even worked into the garments religious sayings and quota-
tions
from Holy Writ.
As
Fairholt puts
it,
"they
literally
ized dress."
" Nay Sir, she
is
a Puritan at her needle too,
Indeed,
She works
She'll
My
And
All
sleeves
histories: besides
have such holy embroideries,
are so learned, that I fear in time
my
apparel will be quoted by
Some pure
*
religious petticoats; for flowers
make church
smock
The
instructor."*
Citye Match.
Jasper Mayne, L. 1639.
moral-
go
This fashionable custom

Jonson.
"The
linen
of
as to resemble lace or
in
England
mentioned by Ben
also
is
men and women was
either
worked
so
was ornamented by the needle
into repre-
sentations of fruit and flowers, passages of history," etc.*
The
inventories of about 1641
show that
3 suits of clothes were valued at
"
"
"
3 coats
3
2 6s.
"
"
"
"
4 pairs of shoes
"
" stockings"
4
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
hat and doublet
stuff petticoat
was
2 pairs of linen breeches
In
1652
found
is
the
mention of shoemaking,
was about
6s.
first
at Salem.
this
time that the
General Court of
Massachusetts
It
passed sumptuary laws to repress

the spending of too large a proof
says:
was
Figure
47.
income
portion
Weedon
not
occupied
business of State,
Typical Winter Costume of a Lady of the
to correcting
Period, 1640.
minds
people,
of the anxious Fathers
was not only
but to classify and arrange them.
it
apparel.
the Court
with
grave
devoted
itself
morals and regulat-
The
ing dress.
in the
on
"When
function of dress
to cover
and protect
The same
conserving
prejudice which marked their treatment of labourers and apprentices

controlled their notions of dress.
and
Social prestige, rank, caste,
breeding were to be formulated in the garments of the wearer.

that the precious capital of the
by expensive
dressing, but the well ordered ranks of society

* Every
Man
out of his
It
community was wasted
was not only
Humour.
were
Figure 48.A boy's doublet

coloured
silk.
The
needle-point lace.
and embroidered with goldand the whole garment is edged with

(Photographed from
I, 1639.
of white linen quilted,
sleeves are slashed
Worn
in reign of Charles
the original garment.)
Figure
49.
Bodice
of white satin slashed
and pinked.
or embroidery would show in the openings.
(Photographed from the original garment.)
Worn
chemisette of silk
in reign of Charles
Figure
Figure
48.
49.

jostled
and disturbed by the
glitter of lace
93
and the show of
silken
hoods, the tramp of strong boots."
Mrs. Lake,
who came
England
1635, sent out to

of the
new household
of the
same settlement
over with the Dorsetshire
Company
in
for the following articles for the furnishing
of her daughter,
in
We
1645.
who married John Gallup
give the
in full as thor-
list
oughly typical of the time:
"A
A
peare of brasse Andirons

brasse Kittell,
made,
armed Cheares with rushe bottums,
carven Caisse for Bottels wch my Cuzzen Cooke has
2 grate Chestes, well

2
of
mine
A Warming Pann,
A Big Iron Pott,
6 Pewter Plates
Pewter
Platters,
3 Pewter Porringeres
A
A
A
A
small Stew
Pann
of
Copper
peare of Brasse and a peare of Silver Candle-sticks (of goode plate)
Drippe Panne
Bedsteede of carven Oake (ye one
in
wch
I sleept in
my
father's house,
with ye Vallances and Curtayns and Tapestry Coverlid belongynge
&
ye wch
Duzzen Napekins
my
sister
Breadcale hath in charge of Mee)
of fine linen
2 table cloathes of
ye same.
damasque
&
Also 8 fine
Holland Pillowe Beeres and 4 ditto sheetes.
A skellet,
A pestel & mortar
A few Needels of different sizes
A carpet (that is, a table cover;
of goodly stuff
and
the
name was
universally applied thus)
colour, aboute 2 Ell longe.
6 Table knifes of ye beste Steal with such handles as
Also 3 large
We
and
&
may
bee.
smal Silvern Spoones, and 6 of home."
are told that Mrs.
Lake
left
richness, besides a goodly
list
a wardrobe of considerable extent

of
linens
and other household
treasures, with several carved chests to contain them, all of
bequeathed
Harris,"
to
friends
and
she says, "I give
relatives:
my
"To my
tapestry coverlid
which she
daughter Martha
and
all
my
other
94
apparell which are not disposed of to others particularly, and I give
my
unto her
their
mantel and after her decease, to
This "mantel" was supposed
need is."*
even then as costly as
sable,
was
it
rare,
to
her children as
all
have been Russian
and presumably brought
from the far East, perhaps China.
We
class
as to
and pettycotes'
of velvet or brocade, with other 'gar-
to consort therewith,' but this
the fine fabrics were so honestly
Figure
50.
made
Figure
51.
Reign of Charles
Reign of Elizabeth,
1595-1603 +
to vanity
when
I,
1625
as to wear for decades and
Figure
5a.
53.
was the same
for
Mrs. Smith throws a new
Figure
54.
During the Commonwealth,
the cost of carriage

velvet."
was not due so much
the best being literally the cheapest in the days
thrift,
Figure
that "all the better
the Colonists seem to have disproportionately liberal sup-
plies of 'mantels
ments
Ways"
read also in "Colonial Days and
among
a coat of
light
649- 1 660.
frieze as for
one of
on the subject, which also
helps us to understand the wills and inventories in which these beautiful old stuffs
served
marks
were handed down as family heirlooms.
Fortunately
book of costume, some Colonial garments have been
for this
in
of
many
pre-
others bear the
original fashion, while, of course,
their
alterations to suit the times.
In 1638 an order was passed by the General Court of Massachusetts:
"No
garment
shall
be
made with
short sleeves,
garments already made with short sleeves
and such as have
shall not
* Colonial Days and Ways, by Helen Evertson Smith.
wear the same

unless they cover the
ever shall
an
ell
arm
make any garment
for
women
with sleeves more than half
wide."
The town
records were full of prosecutions, acquittals, and con-
In Salem in 1652 "a
victions for offences against these laws.
was presented
for excess of bootes, ribands, gould
and Ester Jynks
for wearing silver lace"; while in
"two women were called upon
and
95
and hereafter no person what-
to the wrist;
scarves, but
to
pay taxes
and
Newbury
in 1653
for wearing silken
were discharged on proof that
their
man
silver laces,
hoods
husbands were
worth two hundred pounds each."
her
"John Hutchins' wife was

being brought up above
ordinary
"The
ranke."
also discharged
upon testimony of
the
latter,"
observes Weedon, "is an interesting

instance showing that rank as well as
property condoned these offences."
Any one
of less estate than
hundred pounds was held to
two
strict
Figure
account
The women
dress.
in
Figure
55.
Reign of
Charles
offended especially by wearing silk
1660+.
and
tiffany hoods;
or brocade.
The
III,
1690+.
but they also
Under
wore broad-brimmed hats (Figure 43).
gown a lady wore a
57.
Reign of
William
II,
woolen
petticoat either of
had given place
ruff
the
stiff
bodice of a
stuff or of rich silk
to a broad collar, plain or
embroidered, falling over the shoulders (Figures 20 and 33).
As
leather
was much
used, a tannery
started in every settlement.
lated
by law.
wooden
"Five pence half penny a
heel'd shoes,
wrought 'French
and above seven pence
falls.'"
the seventeenth century.

setts,
was almost the
was the centre
first
industry
In 1676 the price of shoes was regu-
Wooden
Even
for the
heels
size for all
pleyne and
penny a
size for well
half
were worn
at this early date,
all
through
Lynn, Massachu-
manufacture of shoes, which were
96
usually
made with broad
of neat leather or
and buckles; women's shoes being
straps
woolen cloth and occasionally of
During the seventeenth century

by labourers and
especially
leather clothing
The
servants.
silk.
was much worn,

brain-tanned
excellent
deerskin, which the Indians taught the Colonists to prepare, served

well for garments.
Monmouth
Hampshire kerseys were used
caps and red knit caps are mentioned
common
for
among
wear.
the articles
used by the lower classes, and the mandillion, or over-garment,

fastened with hooks
ings,
and
eyes,
frequently spoken
is
Irish stock-
of.
so often mentioned in this century, have been compared to
modem
socks, but they were of cloth
rich apparel
is
and were very warm.
noted here and there, in spite of statute law,
While
it is
/WO.Fig. 58.
frugality
MM.-
/6*0.
Fig. 59.
Fig. 60.
HUJ.
Fig. 6a.
769f.i**
IbZX.-
lib?.-
IbUi.
Fig. 61.
Fig. 63.
Fig. 64.
evi-
Their
dent that the great majority of the people dressed plainly.
Fig. 65.
and abstinence made a foundation on which sumptuary
statutes could be based.
Doublets were worn by both sexes

or padded for extra
slashed
warmth (Figure
they were
The
31).
and embroidered extravagantly, as indicated
straining acts" of the Pilgrim Fathers.
were very common, and often

linen collar
" This pretty
new
fashion indulge
There's no law in bands, I
may
were often
in
the "re-
Falling bands at the neck
they were
was sometimes preferred
always lined
sleeves
embroidered.
deep
in place of the bands.
him
to
wear
venture to swear,
But they set off an old fashion face I declare.

Which nobody can deny, deny, which nobody can deny."
Shoes were ornamented with rosettes (Figures 59 and 61).

beaver or
felt
hat
covered
the
head.
Embroidered gloves were
a
Q
o
I'-
ve
Digitized by
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always worn with
full dress,
and
or fringed (Figures 72, 74, 75, 76,
figured
suspended from embroidered shoulder-belts.
was
99
the flaps of the gauntlets being richly
Swords were
77).
Gold and
silver
lace
often used for trimming.
In the Massachusetts Colony, armour was provided for the emiBandoliers, horn flasks, corselets, and pikes are mentioned
grants.
frequently.
In an old book called an "Abridgement of the laws
Her Majesty's (Queen Anne) Plantations
use in
New
Jamaica,
does,
New
lina,
etc.,
England,
London
1709," will be
of
Militia":
man
Every
have
"Ammu-
least, to
"I.
the
1662.
an.
able to bear arms shall
in his
house a fixed gun,
powder and 8
1.
of
shot,
I.
at
be provided by the Master
under the Penalty
of the Family,
being
0
of
Barba-
Or Laws Concerning
Colonial
fined
II. an. 1666.
80
1.
ficure
Cannons or
of tobacco.
Every County
III.
at
the
figure
70.
** hes F" te in 8
Old
71.
from an
make such
provision of
ammu-
county charges as their several occasions require.
Captains of foot and horse shall take a
what arms are wanting and represent the same

etc.
Print, 1650).
shall
be empowered by their By-Laws to

nition
and
York, Maryland, Caro-
found under the heading

nition,
in force
of Virginia (viz.) of
strict
to
account of
the Colonel,"
This affords valuable proof of the familiarity with firearms
expected of the Colonists in everyday

of the
American
we read under
militia.
life,
With regard
also of the early origin
to the latter organization,
the date of 1660 as follows:
"Every person neglecting

the Militia shall be fined 100
to
1.
appear at the Days of Exercising
of
Tobacco."

"Ten
long guns or muskets with one Barrel of gun powder and
Bullets proportionable shall be kept in each garrison as a Reserve
and Defence
"For the
same."
for the
better taking alarms
upon the approach
frequent shooting of guns at Drinkings
"Six shoots of powder each
on Training Days or pay a
Drums and
purchase of
portrait of Sir
Colony
coat
in
hooks and
tassels,
little
which
is
Sir
man is required to bring with him

The latter to be put aside for the
Colours."
Essex Institute at Salem, depicts a buff
the
with
leather
down
eyes,
of Indians the
prohibited."
John Leverett, Governor of the Massachusetts
in
1673,
dressed
of
fine.
is
metal
fastenings,
ornamental
like
a falling collar of linen tied with
the front;
and a very magnificent pair of embroidered
John
is
a hat ornamented with a long feather (Figure 82).
portrait
gloves,
holding in one hand, while on a table beside him
was taken when he was a Colonial
Probably the
soldier,
for
history
records that he went to England in 1644 and took the side of the
Parliament against the King, but after his return to Boston he
and
several important offices,
by Charles II
in
in
filled
1676 was magnanimously knighted
acknowledgment
of his services to the
New
England
Colonies.
The women
of
New
England
teenth century were well,
if
in the last quarter of the seven-
not handsomely, dressed.
Undoubtedly
the gentlewomen of that time had brocades and silks for festive occasions
and fur-trimmed cloaks and hoods
the ordinary dress
was a
short
gown
for the cold season,
of camlet over a
petticoat with a long white apron of linen.
The
but
homespun
sleeves of the
gown
were supplemented by mittens reaching to the elbows and leaving

a part of the fingers and
was
short, with
meeting;
thumbs
bare.
The
cloak worn at that time
a hood to cover the head, which was thrown back
and those who wore hats took them
off.
wore caps habitually and the young women had
in
The matrons
their hair curled
Digitized by
Google
Figures
72, 74, 75,
and 77 show
different
specimens of embroidered gloves,
of doeskin, embroidered in coloured silks
and gold thread, worn
made
in the seven-
teenth century.
Figure
76.
Gloves
Colony.
worn by Sir John

(From the original gloves
Leverett,
Governor of Massachusetts
in the Essex
Museum, Salem, Mass-
achusetts.)
Figure
73.
Fashionable
Hollar.)
style of hair-dressing, reigns of Charles I
and
II.
(By

and
tied
back with a ribbon or arranged
in
103
soft coil at the back,
with short curls on the forehead.

Scarlet robes are said to have been
A Man
Massachusetts Colony.
worn by
the judges in the
Figure 78.
and Bandolier, 1620-1660.
in Buff-coat
Mrs. Earle gives a picture of one stated to
have been worn by Judge Curwen, of Salem, during the gruesome witch

trials,
but the garment in question
is
so exactly like the cloaks worn
by the women of the Puritan days that one
is
tempted to think
borrowed from his wife for these solemn occasions.
was a
men
favourite colour for
in those days,
However,
it
was
scarlet
and a very romantic
by Mrs. Austin about the red riding
story has recently been written
cloak worn by Governor Bradford, 2d, about the middle of the seventeenth century.
Mourning
for the
dead was attended by various solemn
cere-
monies in the Colonies.
Judge
Mas-
Sewall, of
(Figure
sachusetts
81),
describes
minutely
funeral of
Lady Andros,
the
the wife of the Governor
(Figure 97), on the 10th of
February, 1688, to which
he had been invited by

the "Clark of the South
Company."
P.
Figure
Points
Figure
79.
with
Aiglets
Drawing Together
Points
with
80.
and 8
probably.
The
Tags Fastening a
from the Governour's house
where the body was placed before the
by
it.
to
by
torch bearers, was drawn
Buff-coat
by
six
corted
soldiers
surrounded
or
Aiglets
and Sleeve Together (from

an Old Print, 1650-1660).
Slashed Sleeve.
M.
hearse,
took
"It
place between
horses,
and
the South Meeting
pulpit, with six
There was a great noise and clamour
to
es-
by a guard of
House
mourning women
keep the people out of
He
tells
of himself that he went home,
and about nine o'clock heard the
bell
tolled again for the funeral.
He
the house, which
posely or not
is
was rn^de
light
with candles and torches."
missed the sermon, whether pur-
not told, but knows that the text was "Cry,
all flesh
r.

is
After naming a
grass."
he remarks,
No
dirty.
number
of the people
"Twas warm thawing weather and
volley at placing the
February nth, another entry
body
in the
Mr. Willard."
and others
tomb."
Frequent mention
is
Figure
women
Figure
84.
"The
made throughout
this diary,
and mourning rings

is
evidence that the
general custom of wearing black as a token of sorrow
83.
Saturday,
and given
given friends and relatives at funerals, and there
Figure
On
off
taken
is
of the time, of the gloves, scarves,
throughout the Colonies, the
present,
in this instructive diary reads:
next day the mourning cloths of the pulpit

to
who were
the wayes extreame
was followed
wearing gowns and hoods of
Figure
85.
Figure
86.
87.
Various Forms of the Buff Coat.
black stuff with trimmings, cuffs, and veils of crepe, at least such
was the "customary woe," but
it
was observed with
less formality
by the Non-Conformists than by the Orthodox Church people.

children were dressed in black
and
it
was not unusual
and wore black ribbons
for the servants of
for
Little
a time,
a household to be dressed
in black
when
respect,
English ways and English customs were very closely
the head of the family died:
as in nearly every other
lowed throughout the Colonies in America.

Library there
the past,
is
preserved,
among many
an old hatchment formerly used
fol-
In the Philadelphia
other interesting relics of

in the
Dickinson family,
io8
probably
brought from England,
doorway when a death occurred

is
which
was placed over
the family.
in
the
Another specimen
also to be seen at Christ Church, Philadelphia.
The portrait
Mary Fenwick,
veil,
of a
one hand
in
who
Fenwick,
widow given
in high
holding a portrait
by an act of
January, 1696, without a
Lady Fenwick made
trial,
The cap
is
of the
attainder
and
her husband, Sir John
was
beheaded
27th
of
James
II.
the greatest exertions to save her husband's

interest to the Jacobite Party.
"commode"
shape known as the
Mary's reign (Figure
Figure
of
Lady
tippets, black dress
for conspiracy in favour of
and became an object of much
life
Figure 150 represents
in
widow's cap and
in
William and
38).
Figure
88.
Figure
89.
90.
Gorgets.
Though
the
Massachusetts
General
Court
admonished
men
against long hair and inveighed against excess in apparel in 1675,

the laws in this direction were dropping into disuse in
many
districts.
In the same year the grand jury threatened the selectmen of Ded-
ham
with prosecution for their neglect in enforcing the sumptuary
statutes.
These worthy burghers did not
relish the.
work "of
strip-
ping silken hoods and ribbands from irate dames and of arraigning
the great boots of dandies.
There
is
no record
to
show
that they
heeded the mandate of the grand jury."
The
inventories in Boston prove that
sumptuous dress was
fashion notwithstanding the written laws against
it.
in
Robert Rich-

bell, in 1682, leaves
two
silver hilted rapiers
and a
worth 12.
belt
His wardrobe contained a satin coat with gold flowers, and blue
a
breeches, 4;
stuff suit
with
lace, several
panied by seven cravats and seven pairs of
other suits,
ruffles
accom-
all
and ribbons, valued
at 7.
Periwigs
came
into fashion at the Restoration,
must have vexed poor Judge Sewall
sorely, for
1660.
Richbell
he was the possessor
of three.
We know
that silver buttons
were very
Hudson, whose dress was modest
had two
suits
made
4 gross of
of
The
silver
and
in the Colonies
Captain
also used.
comparison with Richbell's,
in
In a trading stock, mention
equipped with them.
curiosity of the time
common
and gold ones were
in the seventeenth century,
gold
was "Beggars'
buttons valued at
velvet," 14 yards
worth
is
12s.
21s.
long periwigs introduced into England from France in the
latter part of
Charles IPs reign were promptly assumed by the
of fashion, together with the
plumed hats
of the
same
women
period.
Pepys
records the fact thus:
"Walking
in the gallery of Whitehall, I find the
Ladies of Honour
dressed in their riding garbs, with coats and doublets with deep
skirts, just for all the
up
world
the breast, with periwigs
like men's,
and
their doublets buttoned
and hats on, that only
for
a long
coat dragging under their men's coats, no body would take
women on any
point whatever, which
that did not please
About
1680,
was an odd
sight
long
They were made without a

which fastened with a
straight
collar
for
sight
coats,
which
silver
from the original garments
took the fickle
New
England.
and were worn with a neck-cloth
buckle under the hair in the back.
this fashion are given in
belonged to Sir
and a
me."
the
fancy of Charles II for a time, were introduced into
Specimens of
petti-
them
in the
Thomas Isham
Figures 137, 138, photographed
South Kensington Museum.

(1657-1681), third baronet,
They
who

was born
a diary
Lamport
at
in
When
Nottinghamshire.
by the command
in Latin,
still
a boy he wrote
which gives a vivid
of his father,
picture of the everyday doings of a family of the period.
was
translated
Isham, rector of
succeeded to the Baronetcy
in
He
1679.
gentleman of great expectations.

light
This diary
and privately printed (1875) by the Rev. Robert

Lamport, where the original is still preserved. Isham
described as a young
is
Figure 137 represents the
suit of
brocade prepared for his wedding, which he never wore, as he
died after a brief illness on the day fixed for the ceremony.
Weedon
again records: "In the inventories of women, house-linen
formed an important part.
generally
Anne Hibbins
Mistress
1656 had relatively more of the luxuries her sex cherishes in
gold wedding ring at
cloak at
board cloth with
valiants at
16s.,
a ring with a diamond at
a black satin doublet at
10s.,
silk fringe at
10s.,
show
that
15s.,
Anne
8s.,
in
all
periods.
'taffaty'
a green wrought cup-
10s.,
painted callico curtains and
loved the things hated by the
Puritans.
"In William Paine's stock

at
31
in
1660 were
wares
silk
Usually the assorted merchandise of the traders
and goods
selected
them
you would
white in
carefully
and
it;
Towards
like yrself.
colonists of
but
It is pretty
think there
sad
in
stuf,
and ye priz
all
New
inventories
and descriptions
England, as well as those

It
in solid
wares
The women
but one of them
is
is 5s.
have a thred of
6d ye yard.' "*
we
note a tendency
but
the close of the seventeenth century
Maryland, and the Carolinas.
and Mary
two boxes
1647 one writes:
In
conscientiously.
stuf,
3 quarters broad
it is
to display in
Virginia,
is
for the everyday use of everyday people.
'She have three peeces of

yt
in
These occasional luxuries stand out conspicuously.
14s.
it
left
in the
by the wealthy
same period
was the reign
in
of William
England, and the Colonies were not subject to any form
of oppression.
Intercourse between the two countries

* Wecdon's
Economic History
of
New
England.
was
frequent,
Figure
91.
Portrait
ol
John Winthrop the second, showing the
of the Puritan in the Massachusetts Colony.
Figure
92.
Picture of
Sir
1640
John Leverett as Governor
typical garb
+
of Massachusetts Colony,
about 1680.
Figure 93.Picture
1629.
Figctre 04.
Picture
of
John Winthrop, Governor
of
Edward Winslow, Governor
Puritan dress, in 1644.
of Massachusetts
of
Colony
in
Plymouth Colony, in

and every ship brought over comforts and
made by
makers,
London
fashionable
etc.
wigs from the popular wig-
tailors,
It is quite safe to
113
luxuries, also fine clothes
conclude that fashions
in the Colonies
were never more than a year behind those of old England.

Children in the
New
England Colonies, as elsewhere
were dressed as much
The
blanket, shirts,
ford, of
at that time,
The baby
parents as possible.
seventeenth century were marvellous specimens of
clothes of the
needlework.
their
like
earliest
and mitts
garments I have seen are the christening
said to have been
worn by Governor Brad-
Plymouth, and now exhibited at Salem
Essex
in the
Insti-
tute.
portrait of
Robert Gibbs, aged four and a
ton in 1670, also one of John Quincy, at a
show the long hanging
of age, painted in 1690,
by children under ten years of age (Figure

trait
Jane Bonner
of
and a necklace
sleeves usually
of pearls;
in
stiff
is
worn
also a por-
1700,
which
stomacher,
ruffles
age of eight, painted
at the
painted in Bos-
more than one year

There
39).
looks almost like a diminutive court lady, with

of point-lace,
half,
little
in
one hand a
fan,
a rose
in
the other*
New
England by
settled in
Island, founded by
The
Church
in
it
this time included
1623 by an English
Roger Williams
attitude of the
is
Company
New
New
and Rhode
in 1636.
England Colonists towards the Mother
not clearly outlined in
all
the authorities of the time; and,
order to prevent anachronisms in costuming a story of that period,
may
be well to explain here that the emigrants
1630 under Governor John Winthrop, and
embarked sent an address

of
Hampshire and Maine,
in search of gold,
England"
calling the
to
who came
their
Church
"dear mother," had, notwith-
when they
overcome
over in
the day before they
to the "rest of the brethren of the
Church
standing their dutiful address,
a sense of freedom
who
arrived in America, allowed
their allegiance, and, following the
* Child Life in Colonial Days, by Mrs. Earle.

example of the Pilgrims of Plymouth and the Puritans of Salem,
Plymouth
Church
own
choosing their
separate churches,
established
had
of England, but they
laid aside the established ritual.
Endicott followed this example and organized the
Church
at Salem.
to
Non- Conformist Churches were
man
is
that time (1630)
New England
of the leading
them
laying their hands on
With the disuse
was Skelton, with Francis
gown
as
it
was
members
of this
in prayer.
of the English ritual
came the abandonment of
often called,
the
gown
(Figures 148,
was worn
in the pulpit,
white surplice during the service, but the Geneva

149), or preaching
The
quoted on page 84, for teacher.
was confirmed by a number
Company
From
be pastor, and this one to be
to
is fit
pastor thus chosen
first
Higginson, whose journal

choice
England.
established in every
on a piece of paper, stating the Lord
his vote
to think this
The
teacher.
England
simple method of choosing their leaders was adopted.
Each member wrote
moved him
New
first
few members of that Colony objected, but he
had them arrested and sent
settlement.
The
officers.
had not openly renounced the authority of the
settlers
not only by the Puritan Non-Conformists, but also by the Presbyte-
who adopted
rians,
close-fitting
England
it
even before they came to the Colonies.
black cap or coif
is
seen in
many
Judicial History of Massachusetts" I have gleaned
the following account of lawyers in the
"It was
many
New
doubtful
if
England Colonies:
years after the settlement of the Colony, before
anything like a distinct class of Attorneys at

is
Law was
known.
there were any regularly educated Attorneys
practiced in the Courts of the Colony at any time during

ence.
Several of the Magistrates,
Lawyers
New
divines.
From "The
it
of the pictures of
at
it
is
true,
And
who
its exist-
had been educated
home, but they were almost constantly
as
in the magistracy,
nor do we hear of their being ever engaged in the management of

cases.
If they
made
use of their legal acquirements,
it
was
in aid

of the great object
which they had so much at heart
ment
Commonwealth,
of a religious
much more regarded
which the laws
in
of
establish-
Moses were
as precedents than the decisions of Westminster
Hall, or the pages of the few elementary writers
law which were then cited

therefore, that the clergy
in the affairs of the
115
the
in
upon the Common-
English Courts.
the
It
was
thus,
were admitted to such a direct participation
Government, and that
two of
to
their
number was
committed the duty of codifying the laws by which the
Common-
wealth was to be governed thereafter.
"There were Attorneys,

all
it
is true,
and there were lawyers, and
the concomitant evils growing out of the bad passions involved
in litigation,
and there was a law against barratry, passed
in 1641,
because even then there was barratry practiced in the Courts.

profession seems to have
although for the
first
now but
little
ten years of the
The
favor in the public mind,
Government there were no
allowed to the 'patrons,' as they were called,
who defended
fees
or aided
parties in their suits."
This statement explains the similarity
in
the dress of judges,
governors, and clergymen of this period of colonial history, as will
be noticed in the portraits of the day, given in Figures 91, 92, 94,
and
149.
THE DUTCH AND ENGLISH

IN
NEW YORK, LONG ISLAND, THE JERSEYS,

DELAWARE, AND PENNSYLVANIA
1621-1700
with
brief
mention of
the Walloons, Huguenots, and Swedes, as well as of the
Quakers and German

to which
is
Settlers
added an account of the dress of English
Lawyers
in the Seventeenth
Century
HISTORIC DfcESS IN AMERICA
TIME'S ALTERATION;
or
The Old Man's Rehearsall, What Brave Days He Knew,

A Great While Agone, When His Old Cap Was New.
When
this old
'Tis since
No
cap was new,
two hundred yeere
we knew,
malice then
But
things plentie were:
all
All friendship
now decayes
(Beleeve me, this
Which was not
When
Good
is
true),
in those
dayes
cap was new.
this old
hospitalitie
Was
many;
and die
And are not helpt by any
For charitie waxeth cold,
Now
cherisht then of
poor
And
men
love
is
This was not
When
starve
found in few:
time of old
in
this old
cap was new.
Where-ever you travel'd then,
You might meet on
the
way
Brave knights and gentlemen

Clad
in their
countrey gray,
That courteous would appeare,

And kindly welcome you
No puritans then were

When this old cap was
Our
new.
ladies in those dayes
In
civil
habit went,
Broad-cloth was then worth prayse,
And gave
the best content;
French fashions then were scorn'd,
Fond
Then
fangles then
modistie
When
none knew,
women
this old
adorn'd
cap was new.
119

A man
might then behold
At Christmas,
in each hall
Good fires to curbe the cold,

And meat for great and small
The neighbours were friendly bidden,
And all had welcome true;

The poore from the gates were
When
this old
Blacke-jackes to every
Were
No
fill'd
not chidden
cap was new.
man
with wine and beere;
pewter pot nor kanne
In those days did appeare:
Good
cheare in a noble-man's house
Was
counted a seemely shew;
We wanted
When
We
no brawne nor sowse
this old
cap was new.
took not such delight
In cups of
None under
silver fine;
the degree of a knight
In plate drunke beere or wine:
Now
each mechanicall
man
Hath a cup-boord of plate, for a shew.

Which was a true thing then
When this old cap was new.
The Dutch and English in New York,

Long Island, the Jerseys, Delaware,
and Pennsylvania
1621-1700
VEN
a study of costume
in
draw
to
is difficult
it
a distinct line between the Dutch and English
elements in the Colony of Manhattan.
To an
of
English seaman belongs the honour
discovery
brought the
river
When Henry Hud-
1609.
in
sometimes
son,
Hendrick (Figure
called
first
ship
which bears
his
to
the
mouth
of
98),
the
name, he was a navi-
known to the merwho on this occasion

make the voyage, and
gator of experience, well

Figure
A Dutch
95.
Colonist in
New
Amsterdam.
it is
likely that
in his ship,
chants
of
Holland,
had engaged him

he had under him as
"The Half-Moon."
to
many Dutch
as English sailors
After a few weeks spent in exploring
the adjacent country, he returned with an enticing report of a great
many
the
fur-clad animals near the shore.
Dutch merchants were
send over
men
settlement
was
at
The
to establish trading posts.

in
1621,
when
trading proclivities of
once aroused and they hastened to
the great
But the
first
Colonial
West India Company was
chartered by the States General of Holland and given the monopoly

of the
American
Peter Minuit,
trade.
who was appointed Governor
a large number of
colonists,
in 1626, arrived with
men, women, and children, with
cattle

Many
and household goods.
of this
company were Walloons
French extraction whose forefathers had been driven
homes
Flanders and Belgium during the Inquisition,
in
formed an
afterward
were
new
from
skilled in various trades
to
company
of fifty colonists
a large tract of land and the

leges
They
title
to the
have worn a distinctive dress.
In 1628 an act was passed in Holland giving to every

raised a
and had
Holland.
in
and were a valuable acquisition
do not appear
colony, but they
community
industrious
and brought them
of Patroon.
In
fact,
to
man who
America
many
were granted as an inducement to form a settlement
privi-
in the
Colony, and the Patroons became very rich and very powerful.
thousand square miles were included
buckwheat,
flax,
and beans were
toleration prevailing in this
to
remove
there,
from persecution
the
cultivated.
Colony induced men from
and the Huguenots from France
New
in
fruits,
wheat,
The
religious
New
England
also sought shelter
Amsterdam, as the town was
Dutch supremacy (Figures
Patroon Van
in the estate of
Fine cattle were imported,
Rensselaer (Figure 141).

rye,
of
their
called
under
145, 146).
In spite of the hardships they had endured before they reached

the safe shelter of America, these people were distinguished for a
happy,
temperament and gentle manners, and knew many
thrifty
graceful accomplishments in the
which they cheerfully taught

to
have been the
!of material.
first
to
way
of lace-making
to their neighbours.
and embroidery,
They
are said
weave carpets and hangings of odds and ends
They were
also versed in the concoction of delicate
coloured dyes, which they used for their garments and house decorations.
The Huguenots
Carolinas,
and
settled also in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, the
in Virginia,
and
their descendants
have taken a con-
spicuous part in the development of our country.
Almost from the
outset,
Manhattan was a cosmopolitan com-
munity, and costumes were as varied as the wonderful tulips in the
Figure
ing
Figure
96.
Portrait of Peter Stuyvesant,
armour and a black

97.
Portrait
of Sir
Governor
Colony, show-
New
New
York,
England, which included
Canada except PennsylJames II.
the English settlements between Maryland and
vania, 1686-1690, showing periwig of reign of
Figure 98. Portrait

the ruff, reign of
Figure
New York
Andros, Colonial Governor of
1674-1681, and Governor of the Dominion of

all
of
skull-cap, 1647.
Edmund
99.
Portrait
sylvania,
of
Henry Hudson,
James
the English navigator,
1609, showing
I.
of Sir William Keith,
Governor of the Province of Penn-
showing armour and campaign wig, 17 17.
Digitized by
Google

As
Dutch gardens.
manner or material
restrictions to control the
among
prevailing fashions
The
elaborate.
125
there were neither sumptuary laws nor religious
we
of dress,
find the
Dutch and English, very
the citizens, both
New York
mercantile spirit ever pervading
prob-
ably stimulated the wearing of fine clothes.
We
for
many
New
fault-
years, that
and always
lessly dressed
Governor of
"he was never otherwise than
read of the stalwart Peter Stuyvesant,
Amsterdam
wide drooping
most approved European standard.
after the
shirt collar fell over
a velvet jacket with slashed
sleeves displaying full white linen shirt sleeves.

also slashed, very full
a knot, and
tied in
The
leg
which he
and fastened
his shoes
at the
His breeches were
knee by a handsome scarf
were ornamented with large rosettes."*
was replaced by a wooden one with
lost in battle
bands, which accounts for the tradition that he wore a silver
silver
Mrs. Lamb,
leg.
in her
New
"History of
York," says of Governor
Stuyvesant that "he had sterling excellence of character, but more
knowledge than culture," also that "his whole heart and soul became
interested in the
to
country of
his adoption.
In bearing he seems
have been somewhat haughty and exacting.
One
of his contem-
poraries recorded that, during his inauguration speech as Governor

of
New Amsterdam
in 1647,
he kept the people standing with their
heads uncovered for more than an hour while he wore his chapeau,
as
if
he were the Czar of Muscovy.
of black velvet
on
his
dark
hair,
Habitually he wore a close cap
which imparted a
dark complexion, and
slight
mustache which he wore" (Figure
From
the
wife, Judith
his stern
same authority we
and
deeper shade
the
96).
learn that Governor Stuyvesant's
Bayard, "was a beautiful blonde and followed the French
fashions in dress, displaying considerable artistic

fection
still
mouth was not hidden by
to his
style of her attire."
and decorum of manners
for
* History of
skill
in the per-
Also that "the purity of morals
which the Dutch were distinguished
New
York, by Mrs. Lamb.
26
had been ascribed
to the
happy
in all the active affairs of life
As
respect."
early as 1640
influence of their
women, who mingled
and were consulted with
we read
many
of
deferential
richly furnished houses
New
with well-kept gardens and choice conservatories in Colonial
York.
Governor Schuyler called
town house "White Hall,"
his
and he owned a beautiful country-seat

which,
it
is
said,
he paid 6400 guilders
in the neighbourhood,
for
in 1659.
Markets were held every Saturday

in
1656 and
after,
where
laces, flax,
were
linen, linsey-woolsey, duffels, etc.,
sold
by the farmers' wives.
The annual
an occasion of
the people
in
1659,
which attracted
garments
their holiday
from the neighbouring

inaugurated on
was
Fair, or Kermiss,
festivity
the
and usually
villages.
It
was
20th of October,
lasted
six
weeks.
The working garb of the Dutch peasant

women consisted of a short woolen
with a loose jacket of
petticoat
red
cotton or blue Holland, a white kerFigure ioo.

Dutch Woman in Working
Dress (from a Contemporary Print,
Middle of Seventeenth Century).
chief folded
around the shoulders, and
a close white cap.
In Figure
100 a
given in which the long white
sketch
is
apron
of
coarse
homespun
linen
is
caught up with the petticoat for convenience.
The Dutch women

housewives.
of the
Manhattan Colony were marvellous
They concocted medicines and
the plants in their flourishing gardens.

in carding
and weaving,
for the
distilled
They
perfumes from
instructed the maids
woolen garments worn by the family,
as well as the household linen and underwear, were usually
under the home
roof.
Moreover, they had a shrewd
made
knowledge
REIGNS OF CHARLES
AND
AND JAMES
II,
II
1640-1686
Figure ioi
gown is
A Dutch lady of New Amsterdam, wife of a patroon, about 1640.

of crimson silk with a pointed bodice, low
The
showing white undersleeves beneath.
and wired.
fold of soft
ruff
lawn edged with
neck and
and
Her
slashed sleeves
full
cuffs are of lace starched
lace finishes the bodice in front,
An
held in place by a rosette of ribbon, or a jewelled brooch.
over-garment,
the predecessor of the samare, of a woolen fabric, fitting in at the back and
down the front.
confined by a ribbon at the waist, opens

tied with ribbons at the elbow.
wavy
in short
Figure
102.
them
fasten
time)
is
worn
full
open sleeves
a knot at the back and
in
The baggy breeches and
Woolen hose with a
to the breeches.
The
slashed doublet are
below the points which
scarf of silk
were also worn at
falling ruff (collars
this
The hat with a soft flapping

trimmed with plumes of two colours. Leather shoes with wooden
at the instep with large bows of ribbon.
of white Holland laid in fine knife-plaits.
is
is
hair
has
locks in front with a fringe of short curls across the forehead.
A patroon, about 1640.
of cloth or velvet.
brim
The
It
of
felt
heels are tied
Figure 103.
a gown
A Dutch lady, about 1660,

of
amber
satin.
in
a furred samare or jacket of velvet over
The arrangement
of hair
copied from a portrait
is
the ends of the side locks are turned under and tied with a
of the period;
ribbon, the rest
is
taken back and fastened in a
coil in
which narrow ribbon
is
twisted.
Figure
104.
half of
The
An English gentleman at the end of Charles IPs reign and the

James IPs.
breeches are
silk stockings.
His long coat
full
The
is
of flowered silk, cuffs of rich brocade.
and hang over the garters or points which fasten the

shoes are cut rather high and are fastened with a strap
of leather through a buckle
on the
full.
An
embroidered baldric
The
this date.
neck-cloth tied in a
is
is
cocked a
cock."
little
The
to
one
periwig
is
worn with the sword and a
bcw of ribbon
bow under the chin
walking-stick ornamented with a large
hand.
The hat
"Monmouth
instep.
side of the front in the fashion called the
very long and
first
is
is
carried in the right
the
new
fashion of
129
and often carried on business
for themselves
of mercantile pursuits
and invested
Their houses were
their savings in trading ventures.
scrupulously neat; white curtains usually
hung
leaden sashed
in the
windows, and pots of flowers stood on the ledges, while a great loom
was placed under

warp being
wool,
of
which
finished
cloth
and the woof
linen
they kept
About the
weavers.
coarse
be
middle
of
the
we
watch dressed
a costume of blue
read of a rattle-
cloth with facings of orange,
with lanterns,
The duty
men was
well as
of this
company
to patrol the
by
night.
The
community.
his office
fitted
with
was a
a
town by day as
herdsman was
the cattle of the
all
badge of
distinctive
horn
twisted cow's
mouth-piece
by a green cord across
The
staffs.
of watch-
In the early days of
the Colony a licensed
put in charge of
and armed
and long
rattles,
suspended
woolsey with
of
hose
homespun
Mrs. Van Rensselaer,
in her
man
will
Middle of Seventeenth Century).
yarn.
Monmouth
"Goode Vrow
hats
of
of Mana-ha-ta," aptly
Dutch people
borrow her description of Dutch babies.
of a child, the infant

into
in all the Colonies (Figure 37$).
describes the quaint costumes of the
We
(from
linsey-
hand-knitted
of
thrums were commonly worn
Figure 105.
in Working Dress
Contemporary Painting,
A Dutchman
his shoulders.
ordinary working dress of a
was probably
the
itinerant
seventeenth century
in
linsey-woolsey,
called
of
ready to
by one of the
off
Every family
the sloping roof of the back stoop.
made a
Colony
the
in
was wrapped
in
in
New
"Upon
York.
the birth
swaddling clothes and put
an elaborately embroidered pocket, which was trimmed with

frills
ruffled
cap confined
wrapped so firmly
foot,
of ribbon, the colour indicating the sex of the child.
and was
bands that
in its
laid in its cradle, or
wall without fear of
be placed.
ears closely to
its
The
it
its
could
move
neither
hung suspended on a
from any position
its stirring
in
an infant was announced
birth of
tiny
head, and the baby was
hand nor
nail in the
which
might
it
to the neighbours
by hanging an elaborately trimmed pincushion on the knocker of

the front door, the colour of which denoted the sex, blue indicating
a boy and white a
This cushion was usually provided by the
girl.
grandmother and was handed down as an heirloom from one generation
to another
to serve for similar occasions."
All authorities
tell
many
us of the
petticoats
worn by a bride one
over another, and of the bridal crown which in Holland was a token
of the wealth of the family.
with jewels, but
when
It
was made
covered with embroidered
silk.
often of silver
was not
the family
rich,
it
was
Only matrons wore
and adorned
of pasteboard
coifs,
and they
varied with the rank and affluence of the wearer (Figures 121, 131).
The
inventory of the wife of a respectable and well-to-do
settler in
New
tained a gold
girdle to
jackets,
Dutch
Netherlands, Vrouentje Ides Stoffelsen, in 1641 con-
hoop
ring,
silver
medal and chain, and a
hang keys on; a damask furred

two doublets, one iron-gray,
petticoat,
a steel-gray lined
petticoat,
one of Harlem
a pair of Damask
sleeves,
petticoat,
stuff,
little
jacket,
the
silver
under-
two black camlet
other
black;
blue
a black coarse camlet-lined

black vest with two sleeves,
a reddish morning gown, not lined, four
pairs of pattens, one of Spanish leather;
a purple apron and four
blue aprons, nineteen cambric caps and four linen ones, a fur cap
trimmed with beaver, nine linen handkerchiefs trimmed with

two pairs of old stockings and three
shifts.
jackets and of fur caps are given in Figures 103, 106,

Officials could easily
lace,
Pictures of fur-trimmed
be distinguished by their dress.
no, in.
The
leather
aprons worn by labourers and craftsmen were often dyed red, and
Figure 106. Dutch girl in fur cap and fur-trimmed jacket, 1641. (By Hollar.)
Figure 107. Dutch lady, hair arranged in puffs at the side, 1645. (By Hollar.)
Figure 108. A little Dutch girl, seventeenth century. (By DeVos.)
Figure 109. A little Dutch boy (from a portrait by Cuyp).
Figure no. A Dutch lady in fur cap and mantle, 1644. (By Hollar.)
Figure hi. A Swedish lady in pointed fur cap and ruff, 1640. (By Hollar.)

when
the wearer
under
his belt.
was not
of bark taught
Different concoctions
were used by the
gowns (Figure
The
women
caps, chatelaines,
men,
to
dye
them by the Indian squaws
homespun
their
petticoats
and short
100).
of costly materials
of the
one corner was usually tucked
at work,
too,
and gowns
and invariably
were of
of the well-to-do
and
satin, velvet,
matrons were
The garments
of bright colours.
trimmed with
silk,
lace
and
Buttons and buckles were often of gold set with precious stones.
fur.
The samare
or loose jacket with "side laps" or skirts reaching
sometimes with elbow sleeves turned back and faced,
to the knee,
was worn by the Dutch

picture of one
ladies over a waistcoat
trimmed with fur
vailing shapes of coats

in the seventeenth
is
Dr. Jacob de Lange and his wife
tails
petticoat.
The
and hats were not unlike the English.
century coats had long wide
Hats were large and low of crown (Figures
their
and
given in Figure 103.
with wide
pre-
Late
cuffs.
42, 104).
(New York,
1682)
left lists
of
wardrobes which are documents of great value to a history
of costume.
One under petticoat with a body of red bay,

One under petticoat, scarlet
One Petticoat, red cloth with black lace
One striped stuff petticoat with black lace
Two
One
coloured drugget petticoats with white linings,
coloured drugget petticoat with pointed lace.
two coloured drugget petticoats with gray
linings
One black silk petticoat with ash gray silk lining,

One potto-foo silk petticoat with black silk lining,
One silk potoso-a-samare with lace,
One tartanel samare with tucker
One black silk crape samare with tucker
Three flowered calico samares,
Three calico nightgowns, one flowered, two
One
One
silk waistcoat,
one calico waistcoat
pair of bodice,
Five pairs white cotton stockings,
red,

Three black love hoods,
One
white love-hood
Two
pair sleeves with great lace
Four cornet caps with
One
One
black plush mask,
Four yellow
lace drowlas
One embroidered
hook and
One
One
One
purse with silver bugle and chain to the girdle, and silver
eye.
pair black pendants, gold nocks
gold boat, wherein thirteen diamonds
&
one white coral chain,
pair gold stucks or pendants each with ten diamonds.
Two diamond
One
One
lace
plain black silk rain cloth cap
rings.
gold ring with clasp beck

gold ring or hoop bound round with diamonds
Dr. de Lange's wardrobe was abundant, but not so rich:
One
One
One
One
One
One
One
grosgrained cloak lined with
silk,
black broadcloth coat,
black broadcloth
suit,
coat lined with red serge
black grosgrained suit

coloured cloth waistcoat with silver buttons
coloured serge suit with silver buttons
Three
silk
breeches
Three calico breeches

Three white breeches
One pair yellow hand gloves with black
silk fringe
Five pairs white calico stockings
One pair black worsted stockings

One pair gray worsted stockings
One fine black hat, one old gray hat, one black hat.
When
in
1664 the English sailed into the harbour and
made
bloodless conquest of the Colony, they introduced but few changes

in
the
mode
Dutch, and
of living.
affairs of
In 1675 Manhattan was re-taken by the
government and
life
went on as before
for another
year.
"The
in
We
colours in the
Dutch gowns were almost uniformly gay
keen contrast to the sad coloured garments of

hear of
Madam
New
England.
Cornelia de Vos in a green cloth petticoat, a
135
red and blue 'Haarlamer' waistcoat, a pair of red and yellow sleeves,
and a purple Tooyse' apron."

Figure 121 shows a coif or cap worn in
is
of
made
of gray
an elaborate pattern, put on
Ibob.
Figure
face
is
a plaited
flat
Amsterdam.
across the top.
Figure
113.
ruffle of lace
114.
Figure
It
silver lace
Around the
AwiS.
St*?.
Ib9f.
ibtU.
Figure
112.
New
and white brocade and trimmed with
Figure
115.
116.
held in place by three rows of silver
wire run through the plaits.
The
children, too,
were gaily dressed, as we can see
in the
Dutch
contemporary portraits (Figures 108, 109, 132, and 133).
leading
man
of
New
Amsterdam, a burgomaster, had
at the
time of his death, near the end of the Dutch rule, this plentiful
ber of substantial garments:

stuff coat, cloth breeches,
and doublet, a
silver cloth
velvet waistcoat with silver lace,
silk sleeves, three

tails
cloth coat with silver buttons, a
a cloth coat with gimp buttons, a black
cloth coat, a silk coat, breeches
and doublet, a
num-
a buff
grass-green cloaks, several perukes, "tets
after the genteelest fashion."
breeches
coat, with
and
fox-
36
One romantic
in
element in the history of
the other colonies
New Amsterdam
that of the pirates
is
who
not found
carried on a vigor-
ous business at sea and brought into the shops and markets
rich stuffs captured
from the ships returning
to
The government
from the East Indies.
made no
effort
and sometimes, as
down and
settled
citizens.
We
that Captain
The
Figure
Coif
of
m.
Dutch
Matron
(from the Original Garment, late

Seventeenth Century).
became
started
three
finally
to read
housekeeping
hundred
dollars'
plate.
English
again
Amsterdam
and,
Andros,
as
Governor
became
an
English
can ed
Captain
respectable
not surprised
are
Kidd
New York with
worth of
with them,
in the case of
maritime marauders
Kidd, these
in
interfere
to
many
England and France
New
York
in
New
conquered
under
Edward
Sir
(Figure
97),
honour of the Duke
of York, brother of Charles II.
There were Dutch and English

tlements
more or
likewise
less
in
it
and was
colony,
Long
Island,
the
Jerseys,
under the jurisdiction of the Governor of
where doubtless the costumes,
like
the
customs,
set-
and Delaware,
New
reflected
York,
both
nationalities.
THE SWEDES ON THE DELAWARE

In 1638 a colony of Swedes was sent out to America with instructions to settle the land not belonging to the
Dutch and English.
Select-
ing a spot on the west shore of the Delaware, they built a fort and
New Sweden. In 1656 the Dutch sent a comNew Amsterdam to establish a trading post on the Delathey founded the town which is now known as New Castle.
called the settlement
pany from
ware, and
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
Shows the dress of an English gentlewoman of 1640.

(By Hollar.)
Swedish woman
1640.
A Dutch lady outdoor
(By Hollar.)
1640.
125. An English lady
house
(By Hollar.)
1640.
122.
123.
124.
(By Hollar.)
in clogs,
dress,
in
in
dress,
Diailij by
Google
Digitized by
Google
139
Frequent skirmishes followed between the Swedish and the Dutch

settlers (Figures 95,
in,
106,
and
123, 124, also 100, 105),
finally
the English claimed, by virtue of a patent from Charles II in 1664,

all
the land from the west side of Connecticut River to the east side
of
Delaware Bay, which was named for Thomas West, Lord Dela-
and thus
ware, one of the early Governors of Virginia;

onies of America
came under English
rule.
This was
the col-
all
in the latter
part of the reign of Charles II.
In Figures
1,
and 69 we have the
68,
characteristic dress of the
English gentleman and gentlewoman of this date, and in Figures

101
and 102 the
typical
costume of a Dutch Patroon and
THE QUAKERS
When
Quakers came
the
IN PENNSYLVANIA
William Penn,
to Pennsylvania with
From
they had not adopted any distinctive style of dress.

only were the colours rather grave than gay, for no
been formulated at
this
either as a
badge of
This sash
network and as being of the
size
In an old English publication
Thomas
and
we
The sash of sky-blue silk

mark of his rank, is an
described as made of silk
is
style of that of
read:
in the
silver,
linen, either plainly
Norwich."*
and the
hemmed
ruffles
or trimmed
Heels were rather high, the toes of the shoes square.
A gentleman of our day would

in
officer.
now
is
Kett, Esq., of Seething Hall, near
neck and wrist were of
with rich lace.
a military
"This sash
Shoe and stock buckles were usually of

at
had
office or
agreeable note of colour.
possession of
choice
strict rules
time (1682) prohibiting the use of bright
colours or trimmings by the Quakers.
worn by Penn,
his wife.
such a costume as the
seem
first
to
modern eyes very
followers of the benign
gaily dressed
Founder of
Philadelphia habitually wore (Figures 143, 144).
However, a certain neatness and staidness distinguished both

the
men and
the
women from
the earliest days of this
* Hone's Every
Day Book.
Quaker
colony,

although family portraits
possession
in
still
of
their
descendants
prove that gowns of blue and red satin were not infrequently worn
by members of the Society of Friends previous
to 1700.
There was
nothing of the so-called Quaker simplicity about Penn's household.
Pennsbury, his beautiful manor on the banks of the Delaware,
was furnished and maintained on a

Costly
abode
silver, fine
for a royal governor.
usually
made
substantial
china, rich curtains
his journeys to
The
and most
and rugs made
liberal scale.
it
fitting
twelve-oared barge in which Penn
town was
also stately
and imposing.
Although the hats of the Quakers (Figures 117; 118, and 143)
were of a shape similar
tiers,
to those
worn by King Charles and
his cour-
they were put on the head with a certain rigidity, and the fact
that they were never doffed in deference to rank or the fair sex
may
have added a touch of grimness and austerity to the expression of the

broad brims in striking contrast
by cavaliers and used by them

"
The Quaker
to the graceful
plumed hats worn
to express every degree of courtesy.
loves
an ample brim,
hat that bows to no salaam."
In 1693 Perm, with the welfare of the province always in mind,

put into his book,
"Some
in matters of dress.
The more
anothers.
unshapely nor
fruits of Solitude,"
a message of counsel
"Choose thy cloaths by
own
thine
simple and plain they are, the better.
fantastical,
and
for use
and decency, not
eye,
not
Neither
for Pride."
Mrs. Gummere, who has made an exhaustive study of Quaker

dress, says that green
aprons were so
much worn by
Friends at this
period as to be regarded "almost as badges of Quakerism";

that Friends not only called their cloaks
dinal," but
wore them
"Wigs were
people"
in red
as generally
(Figures
134 and
and
all
worn by
135).
by the popish
title
also
"Car-
bright colours.
genteel Friends as by other
This was the more surprising
because they religiously professed to exclude
all
superfluities,
and
Digilized by
Google
f
Digiliicd by
Coo^k'

yet nothing could
have been offered
143
mind as so
to the
essentially
In the year 1685, William Penn wrote to his steward,
useless."*
James Harrison, requesting him
to
Governor Lloyd,
allow
his
deputy, the use of his wigs in his absence.
In England there were but few striking changes in the fashionable dress of the upper classes from the end of the reign of Charles
II to the
The
end of the reign of William and Mary.
straight square-cut coats
were worn opening over waistcoats
of equal length reaching to the knees; the breeches were held in place
beneath the knee by long stockings, which were drawn up over
them
long neck-cloths of Flanders or Spanish point-lace were used
the shoes, the upper leather of which rose considerably above the
instep,
were fastened by a small strap over
buckle placed rather on one side;
and monstrous periwigs, which
fringed gloves
comb
publicly, completed the habit of the
reign of William
"The
ladies
The
sleeves of the
Rows
petticoat,
back.
118,
120);
119,
was the fashion
it
beaux
of
London
to
in the
have adopted some of the Dutch fashions,"
to
"The stomacher appeared more

gown became
minated with a cuff at the elbow

sex.
passing through a
and Mary.
seem
says a contemporary writer.

laced.
it,
was bent up or cocked
and trimmed with feathers (Figures
round
all
the hat
straight
formally
tight,
and
in imitation of those of the
and furbelows, or
of flounces
and
falbalas,
ter-
male
bordered the
which was disclosed by the gown being looped completely
The
head-dress was exceeding high in
front,
being com-
posed of a cap, the lace of which rose in three or more

almost to a
point above the forehead, the hair being
and disposed
in
rows of wavy curls one above the other (Figure
38).
Hair powder was used occasionally, but not generally.
were
carried
by both
mented often with

*
tiers
combed up
sexes.
large
bows
The Quaker: A Study
in
They were
very
small and
of ribands.
Costume, by Amelia Mott Gummere.
Muffs
orna-
144
"The
dress of the
commonalty underwent no change" (Figures
40, 41)-*
We
find the
same costumes
New York"
of
In Tod's "History
in the colonies.
the following description of the fashions about
is
1695 (reign of William and Mary):
"Broadway on a Sabbath morning,

for
spectacle far exceeding that which
modern beaux and
Emperor moths.
as
come
ourselves watching,
street,
some entering
places
down
groups moving
Trinity, others turning into
worship are
of
whom we
These worshippers,
in
new Dutch Church on
passing into the
equally
that
imagine
the wide shaded
Garden
Street
and
Both
thoroughfare.
The Dutch Church
fashionable.
the wealthier, but then Trinity has the Governor's pew,
and the
comes of State patronage and emolument.
Let us
prestige
that
describe, as
bearing
ard and
Merritt,
showing the fashions of the day, the dress of
down
Madam
Mayor, and Colonel of the City
five inches
His waistcoat
breeches, of the
deep with
His hat, of black
adorned with a band of gold
fully
woven
same colour and material as
and low shoes adorned with large
extremities.
wears a
Militia,
silver lace,
of red satin
is
with silver at the pockets and knees.

ings
Madam
Secretary
cloth coat with skirt reaching quite to the knee,
embroidered four or
silk.
are Nicholas Bay-
who has been
Bayard,
group
this
Bayard, William Merritt, Alderman and
and Isaac de Riemer.
cinnamon coloured
sky-blue
They
abreast of the church yard.
of the Province,
is
brilliant
belles pre-
In these days, however, both ladies and gentlemen shone
sent.
rich
is
as the bells were ringing
Church, must have presented an animated and even
powdered with starch
finely
alabaster or whiting has been

Knight's
felt,
lace.
lined with
his coat, are
Dove coloured
silver
His
trimmed
stock-
silk
buckles cover his nether
has a wide flapping brim and
His full-bottomed wig
ground and
added
and
in with gold.
to give
sifted, to
it
body, and
Pictorial History of England.
is
plenti-
which burnt
is
scented
W a
8.
?*">
8.2
o
with ambergris.
i47
steinkirk of fine muslin encircles his neck, the
ends of which are laced and tucked into his expansive
The
waistcoat being
open
left
shirt
holland adorned with colebatteen
latter is of fine
to better display them.
He
bosom.
the
ruffles,
carries a cane,
with a gold head elegantly engraved in cypher and crown, but
too,
the sword, with
its
gay sword knot, then an almost indispensable
adjunct to a gentleman's dress, in deference to the day has been
The two
behind.
left
same
other gentlemen are dressed
a pleasing variety in
style except that there is
Merritt,
for instance,
wears a salmon coloured
much
style
silk
and
the
in
colour.
drugget coat,
with silver brocade waistcoat and small clothes, while
De Riemer
has a sagathie cloth coat with waistcoat and breeches of drap du

Barre.
Figure
Figure
134.
Periwig of Charles
II,
"But
ladies,
if
who
1684.
what
is
to
be said of the
are apt to lead the sterner sex in matters of personal
Instead of a bonnet,
(commode), a
'
lin
stiffened with wire

rise.
Madam
sort of head-dress
age
and the gown
velvet petticoat
Bayard wears a
the steinkirk, or neck-cloth.
itself
is
open
edged with two
'front-
formed of rows of plaited mus-
one above the other, and diminishing
She, too, wears
bodice of her purple and gold atlas

stays,
136.
Campaign Wig,
1690.
the gentlemen are thus brilliant,
adornment?
as they
Figure
135.
Periwig of William III,
1660.
gown
in
is
front
silver orrices
in size
The
laced over very tight

to
display the black
and high enough
to
48
show the green

fine
silk stockings
and beautiful embroidered shoes
of
morocco."
"My high commode, my damask gown,

My lac'd shoes of Spanish leather.
A silver bodkin in my head,
And
a dainty plume of feather."
"Young
Maid's Portion."
THE DRESS OF ENGLISH LAWYERS

SEVENTEENTH CENTURY
Very
little
is
said
IN
THE
by the early authorities on the costumes of
lawyers and judges in the Colonies, but there are numerous indica-
was
tions of the fact that scarlet, the judicial colour in England,
worn on the Colonial bench, and Martin,
Bench and Bar
in Pennsylvania," states that
were conducted with much of the

Country.
recall the
the
It will
be interesting in
of the
Mother
study of the dress of the day to
display therein detailed were not even possible in the
enforced simplicity of the early Colonies.
in
undoubtedly the courts
and formality
state
a
"History of the
complicated costumes of the English law courts, although
pomp and
ginia,
in his
In
New
England, Vir-
Maryland, the Barbadoes, and the Carolinas, as well as
New York
and even
in
later
Pennsylvania, the forms and ceremonies
of government were as similar to the English code as circumstances
permitted.
In the Southern Colonies especially
it is
probable that
mality was observed in the dress of lawyers and judges; at
we do
much
all
for-
events
not read of any departure from the English methods of pro-
cedure in documents of the Colonies.
In a historical sketch of the English law courts by Inderwick*
we
find
a description
and customs
in
of
England
*
The
the
gradual
during
the
changes
Colonial
King's Peace, by F. A. Inderwick.
in
legal
period.
In
dress
the
C3
U
'J
Digitized by
Google
Digitized by
Google

commonmuch doubt and surrounded with
time of Charles I questions relating to the attire of the
law judges were involved in so
many
so
contradictory precedents and traditions that the judges re-
The
solved to simplify matters by conference.

erations
was a decree dated June
6,
result of their delib-
1635, which, although
could
it
not have direct application to the Colonial courts in every particular,
throws important light on the ceremonies and etiquette to which
every English lawyer of that date was accustomed.
We
therefore
quote the extract from State Papers given by Mr. Jeffreson *

:
"The
judges in
Term
in their black or violet
same colour put over
time are to set at Westminster in the Courts,
gowns, whether they
their heads,
and
will,
and a hood
their mantles
above
of the
the
all;
end of the hood hanging over behind; wearing their velvet caps,
and coyfes
of lawn,
The
and cornered cap.
hoods and mantles,
facing of their gowns,
with changeable taffata;
is
which they must
begin to wear upon Ascension-day, being the last Thursday in Easter
Term, and continue those robes
And Simon and
until the feast of
Simon and Jude.
Jude's day, the judges begin to wear their robes
faced with white furs of minever;
and so continue that facing
until
Ascension-day again.
Term and
"Upon
all
Holydays, which
the judges
sit
in scarlet faced with Taffata,
to
be worn, and with
furs,
the
fall in
or minever,
are Hall dayes,
when Taffata
when
furs or
facing
is
minever are to
be worn.
"Upon
the day
when
the
Lord Mayor
of
London comes
minster to take his oath, that day the judges
upon the
fifth
of
sermon, and after go to
sit
in
in scarlet to
their collars of S.S.
A Book
and
it
be
hear the
above their man-
two days.
*
West-
Court and the two Lords Chief Justices,
and the Lord Chief Baron, have

for those
to
in scarlet,
November, being Gunpowder Day, unless
Sunday, the judges go to Westminster Abbey
tles
come
about Lawyers, by John Cordy Jeffreson.

"When the Judges go to St. Paul's to the sermon, upon any Sunday
Term time, or to any other public church, they ought to go
in the
in scarlet
Baron
gownes; the two Lords Chief Justices and the Lord Chief
in their velvet
and
satin tippets;
abroad towards the
left
shoulder.
and the hood
And
dayes, as upon the Ascension-day,
if
it
be pinned
to
is
be upon any grand
Mid-summer
day, All Hallows-
day, or Candlemas-day, then the two Lords Chief Justices and the
Lord Chief Baron wear
and
velvet
"At
all
and
times
when
assembly of the Lords

to
go
collars of S.S. with long scarlet casting-hoods
satin tippets.
the judges go to the Council-table, or to any

in the afternoons in
Term
time, they ought
in their robes of violet or black, faced with taffata, according
as the time of wearing them doth require; and with tippets and scarlet
casting-hoods, pinned near the
or Holyday, and then in scarlet.
upon Sundays
tles,
and
scarlet
in
in the fore-noon in scarlet
in their caps.
And
the
scarlet
morning
first
and cornered caps.
in the
same
judge,
who
be Sunday
it
gownes, hoods, and man-
in the afternoons to the

sit
in
at the reading of the commissions, they
And he
that gives the charge,
most
robes, scarlet gown, hood,

sits
upon the Nisi
and
delivers the
part, to continue all that assizes
and mantle.
Prius, doth
But the other
commonly
(if
only in his scarlet robe, with tippet and casting-hcod
be cold he
church
in their cornered caps.
gownes, with hoods and mantles, and in their coyfs
gaol, doth, or ought for the
sit
shoulder, unless
gownes, tippet and scarlet hood, and
"And
sit
sit
left
In the circuit the judges go to church
may
"And when
sit
in
he
will)
or
if
it
gown and hood, and mantle.
the judges in the Circuit go to dine with the shireeve,
or to a publick feast, then in scarlet gowns, tippets, and scarlet
hoods; or casting
"The
off their mantle,
scarlet casting-hood
right side, for Justice
is
to
they keep on their hood.
be put above the tippet, on the
Wolmsley and Justice Warburton, and
all
the
judges before, did wear them in that manner, and did declare that
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by wearing the hood on the
more temporal
signified
right side,
and above the
and by the
dignity;
tippet
tippet,
on the
was
left side
only, the judges did resemble priests.
"Whenever
the judges or
the king's majesty,
casting-hoods;
"The
any
them are appointed
of
own
either to his
judges and sergeants
presence, or at the council-table.
when
they ride circuit, are to wear
a sergeant's coat of good broad-cloth, with

velvet.
to attend
they go in scarlet gowns, tippets, and scarlet
They have used
sleeves,
and faced with
of late to lace the sleeves of the sergeant's
coat thick with lace and they are to have a sumpter, and ought to
ride with six
men
at the least.
"Also the
first
Sunday
sergeants dine at
their scarlets,
"When
my Lord
and
of every term,
to sit at Paul's
the judges go to
Sunday or Holyday
and when the judges and
Mayor's, or the shireeves, they are to wear

with caps at the sermon.
any reader's
in scarlet;
feast,
upon other days
they go upon the

in violet,
and the
sergeants go in violet, with scarlet hoods.
"When
the judges
don they go
in violet
upon Holydays
sit
upon Nisi Prius
and
was required
says, "deserves attentive perusal, for
recalls the
of
courts, of officers,
"The
and
wealth differed but
an imposing body-guard."
King's Peace" records that "in the matter of

of
little
Common-
costumes, the judges of the
from
their
predecessors, except that the
King's Bench was called the Upper Bench, a

to
have been occasionally known
in
name by which
it
previous reigns.
Keepers of the Great Seal wore a robe described by Whitelock, the

torian of the epoch, as a
that
worn by Lord Bacon

8
it
days when the humblest judge of assize
to ride circuit with
The author
seems
tippets,
upon departed manners, exemplifies the obsolete pomp
light
of the law,
Westminster, or in Lon-
in scarlet."
"This order," Jeffreson

throws
in
gowns, and scarlet casting- hoods, and
'handsome
velvet
in the portrait in
gown'
also
The
his-
closely resembling
Lord Verulam's
collection."
S6
The same
authority gives the modification of legal dress which
"The Com-
followed towards the close of the seventeenth century.
mon Law
judges wore their scarlet, as
we know from
certain peti-
tions presented to the Protector, praying that the judges

circuit in their scarlet,
and were
at times escorted
who went
by a troop of
horse,
should no longer be permitted to 'affright the country with their

blood-red robes and their state and pomp.'
coifs
and
Sergeants wore their
gowns; but the
striped
Bar, under the rank of sergeant,
wore
their
own
hair trimmed
in
such device as was prescribed by

fashion and not forbidden by the
they
Inn to which
the
regulations of
The
belonged.
head-dress
of the judges, the sergeants,
Bar had from the very
the
and
earliest
periods been fixed and determined.
The
judges wore the coif and
vet cap over their
own
hair,
vel-
and
with their beards and moustaches

they
as
wore the
Figure
Sergeant-at-iaw,
serious
thought
coif,
fit.
Sergeants
while counsel wore
dress
of
the costume
142.
Reign of
Charles
11.
of the period.
Ruffs were in fash-
ion during the reigns of Elizabeth
and James
I,
when judges and
counsel wore them.
These were sup-
planted by a broad lace collar, which was in fashion under Charles
and by white
linen
bands under the Commonwealth.
I,
In the reign of
Charles II the monarch and people of position assumed the periwig, a

fashion imported from France, where
and gradually
left off
judges, but not
all,
it
was patronized by Louis XIV,
wearing beards and moustaches.
Some
of the
accordingly wore the judicial robes with the
REIGNS OF CHARLES
II,
JAMES
II,
WILLIAM AND MARY
1682-1700
Rgure
A Quaker gentleman in a
143.
suit of
dark brown or plum-coloured cloth
The
cut according to the English fashion at the end of Charles II's reign.
shirt-sleeves
hang
in ruffles over the
hand and the neck-cloth, though
fashionable style and of the finest linen,
seen in the portraits of the time.
is
untrimmed.
The absence
The
hat
of feathers
is
and
full
of the
of the shape
lace
was the
The hair was occasionally

powdered and periwigs were not uncommon, but the hair was usually worn in
only distinction of Quaker dress before 1700.
natural locks parted in the middle and hanging to the shoulders.
Figure 144 shows the typical dress of a Quaker lady of the same date a gown
of some soft coloured silk with fine white kerchief and undersleeves.
The
long full apron is also of silk, probably a dull green.
Under the black silk
outdoor wear a ruffled cap of sheer lawn is worn. The hair is arranged
back and parted in front. With various modifications of maand colour Figures 143 and 144 show the general style of Quaker dress
many years, coats, gowns and hats following very closely the fashions of
hood
for
in a coil at the
terial
for
the time.
Figure
A Huguenot lady in the French dress of the period
Mantle
(1686).
trimmed with embroidery. Her over-dress is looped up for walking,
worn
a high cap
showing an embroidered underskirt. Under the black hood is
The sleeves are finished with
of lace over a wire frame called a " commode."
145.
of black
gown and she wears long gloves of kid

and a muff decorated with a bow and ends of brocaded ribbon. The hair is
Long earin curls on the forehead and in a soft knot at the back.
plaited ruffles of the material of the
arranged
rings adorn her ears.
Figure 146. A Huguenot gentleman of the same date in a suit of dark blue cloth
trimmed with gold braid. His neck-cloth and handkerchief are trimmed with*
The shirt-sleeves end in a ruffle at the wrist and show beneath
ruffles of lace.
The hose of dark red or blue are pulled up over the
the wide cuffs of the coat.
knee and fastened under the breeches. The shoes are cut high on the instep
and fastened with a flap of leather through a buckle. The hat is cocked on
both sides and worn over a periwig of moderate size without powder.
Digitized
by
Google
159
periwig in place of the coif; and this diversity of head-dress

the judges continued during the reign of
Street,
one of the judges who was
hair with the coif
and the black
James
II,
when
in office in 1688, still
The
velvet cap.
Sir
wore
among
Thomas
his own
Bar, being younger
than the judges, took more generally to the prevailing fashion, and
wore
first
William
and then the short wig.
the long
III,
all
In course of time, under
community, including bishops and
classes of the
clergymen, wore the long or the short

wig, judges
in the
and counsel being included
number; and the
indicate
patch on a white
on
to their
black
ground, fastened
wigs as a substitute for the
black cap and

lawyers,
silk
sergeants, to
wore
status,
their
the white
however,
who
The
coif.
followed
the
public taste in assuming periwigs, failed

to follow
bishops,
it
in leaving
who
them
The
off.
continued to wear their
wigs long after the public had ceased to
do
so,
gave up the practice some
fifty
years ago; but the judges and counsel
have continued
the
till
to-day the bands of
Commonwealth along
0 with
the head-
dreSS of the Restoration, which
more any portion
is
Figure
no
147.
Sergeant-at-law, Reign of
James
II.
of ancient or tradi-
tionary legal costume than were the ruffs of

lace collars of Charles
I.
And
thus
it
Queen Elizabeth or
happens
versity of conservatism, that head-dress,
which
that,
in
the
by a very perthe seventeenth
century was worn alike by kings and by courtiers, by clergymen and
by
soldiers,
by
Jeffreys
on the Bench and by Titus Oates
in the
dock,
has become in the nineteenth century the distinct characteristic of

the advocate
and the judge.
King James
I,
interfering with the
i6o
Inns of Court, as with most other of his subjects'

that barristers were not to
cloaks,
swords,
boots,
come
spurs,
affairs,
to the hall of their
showing
or daggers,
had ordered
Inn with
their
ordinary
their
habits were those of the gentlemen of the period, and further that
none were
to
be admitted into the Society
to
by descent.
who were
have been very generally followed, and
the middle of
King
Charles' reign,
the rank of sergeants,
if
when employed
it
not
was
costume and customs
how
nearly they
In Figure
The
illustrations
is
print of the circuit
and the county
given of a lawyer in his
(Figures 142 and
from authorities of the time.
pomp and
silk
in the Colonies in the seventeenth century.
wig and parliament.
the
wearing
of the long robe.'"
being able to determine with exactness
127 a picture from a contemporary print
also taken
till
that counsel under
in court, took to
I feel obliged to quote these items of legal
were followed
and seem
I,
not, I conceive,
later,
became 'gentlemen
or stuff gowns, and thus
in full, not
not gentlemen
These directions were repeated by Charles
courts.
Much
147) are
has been said in
It is well
known
that all
dignity were observed that those occasions permitted
in the Colonies,
but very grave offences and questions of State were
carried before the court in England.
THE GERMAN SETTLERS
IN PENNSYLVANIA
1683-1790
The Mennonites,
in
German Quakers, who
or
settled
Germantown
Pennsylvania under the hospitable encouragement of Penn (1683),
were speedily followed
to
America by other German
Palatinate or the low countries on the Rhine.
people to found colonies in the
but
little
New
sects
from the
They were
the last
World, for as a race they had
of the spirit of adventure in their composition.
Well equipped with implements for farming, the emigrants carefully selected the fertile
country near the Blue Mountains, and, once
established as colonists, they were joined
by large numbers
of their
Figure
Figure
148.
149.
Portrait of Count Zinzendorf a preacher's robe.

Portrait of Simon Bradstreet, Judge and Governor of
chusetts Colony, in
Figureîso.
Figure
Portrait
Portrait
151.
in
gown and cap, 1630-1670.

of Lady Fenwick, showing widow's mourning,
of Mrs. Elisabeth Boehler in the
Pennsylvania, 1787.
the Massa-
1695.
Moravian settlement*
Figure
148.
Figure
149.

In 1703,
countrymen.
thousand Germans
tion
it
hundred
said there were nearly three
is
At the time
Penn's province.
in
163
of the Revolu-
they warmly supported the struggle for independence.
Coming
chiefly
from the low countries along the Rhine,
their
costumes were not especially picturesque, but they were distinctive

in character,
in
and the fashion
some other parts
arrival
in
of
them changed
of
Germany, so
that for
than
less frequently
many
years after their
America they wore the quaint caps and head-dresses,
clumsy boots, and odd looking cloaks of an
Not only
but in
in Pennsylvania,
New
earlier period.*
York, Maryland,
and Georgia, the Germans
sey, Virginia, the Carolinas
New
Jer-
founded
also
pastoral settlements.
The
clothing of the
new
settlers consisted of
woven from tow, made from
flax
grown on the
"home-made
cloth,
Their
virgin soil."
costume did not admit of much change, and the men were dressed
chiefly in shirt, trousers,
trousers sufficed;
for protection.
and
In
coat.
warm
weather the
The women wore
and were worn only when absolutely necessary.
in
that
among
way procuring a
There were various
the settlers
still
to
a long time,
and mended
their shoes,
livelihood.
sects
among the German

much the same as
colonists:
to Pennsylvania in 1734;
Georgia in 1735 and founded
in
at Bethlehem, Pennsylvania,
the accepted
Quaker dress
is
Silesia,
who came
1790 a large and important

still
settle-
practice the pic-
The Moravians have many
turesque rites of their doctrine.

ing customs, but their costume
the Moravians,
where they
The
the Mennonites,
wear a peculiar costume; the Schoenkf elders from
who emigrated
ment
last
Cobblers travelled
Dunkers, whose doctrine was very
who
and
short full skirts with dark bodices
Shoes were made to
laced over coarse white shifts.
through the country
shirt
weather an additional top coat was worn
in cold
interest-
decidely conservative, and resembles
in sobriety of colour
and
* See Trachten der V6lker, by A. Kretschmer.
simplicity of cut.
64
Moravian community was divided
bands.
all
One
unnecessary adornment
lace,
a number of choirs or
into
was
object carefully kept in view
and
parasols,
in dress.
fans were
Among
the avoidance of
other things, jewelry,
The bonnets worn by
forbidden.
the Sisters were usually of white straw with plain ribbon, the colour
of
which formed the distinction of the
the widows, blue by the married

ried,
and
eighteen
red
White was worn by
choir.
women,
rose colour
by
by the unmar-
from fourteen
girls
The male
years of age.
to
choirs
were not distinguished by any badges, but

they
all
wore very simple
as
it
clothing, generally
Mourning was never worn,
gray or brown.
was thought
that death, or "returning
to one's native land," as Zinzendorf

figurf 152
Moravian Coif (from
Original Garment).
was no * a P roP er SUDj ect
Two
an
fashioned
curiously
palls
the funerals of children are
with the archives of the Moravians at
They
Lititz.
still
called
sorrow.
for
used
for
preserved
are
made
of
white damask linen and the inscription:

"Jesus er Mein Heiland lebt
Ich wird auch
Das Leben schauen,"

is
embroidered thereon
form
They
letters.
ribbon
pink
for the girls
used for adults.

to be seen.
ribbon gathered in a scallop pattern to
in
are
bound around
and blue
the edges with a broader
for the boys.
Similar palls were
minute pillow used at infant baptisms
wedding dress
is still
also
is
preserved of white satin trimmed
with gauze roses and ribbon-work like the bag in Figure 153.
has a short waist and
The
lady
who wore
three-cornered-wise,
orate
pattern,
it
little
had
puffed sleeves and
was worn about
also a white gauze shawl
made
to
It
1790.
wear
with only one corner embroidered in an elab-
which she wore with a black velvet
dress.
She
is
Figure 153. A reticule of white silk embroidered in crepe flowers.

Figure 154. A waistcoat worn by Count Lemcke.
Figures 155 and 156. Photographs of white silk pocket cases, embroidered
in colours.
These
relics are
preserved in the Moravian archives of Lititz.
Figure
153.
Figure
154.
Denized by
Google
167
described as attending church in this garb, accompanied by a page
carrying her train and a foot-stove.
portrait of
Count Zinzcndorf and
also one of the
wears a
ming
close-fitting
for
a Moravian matron) (Figure 151)
white with a
and a
close-fitting
back out of
wife
cap with ribbons of blue (the distinctive trim-
The unmarried women were

in
Countess
The
are in possession of a direct descendant in Philadelphia.
under her chin.
tied
They
called Sisters.
dressed usually
"nice handkerchief" pinned about the shoulders
cap with rose-pink ribbons, the hair
all
brushed
sight.
Figure 157.
Moravian Cap
Figure
of
Lawn Worn
158.
over the Coif.
made
Before the Revolution, earthenware, paper, and linen were

at the cloister at Ephrata, Pennsylvania.
may be
seen at the present day the blocks of
tures of
two white
satin note cases,
are done in hair and the flowers in
and he
to evening parties.
Institute at
is
roll of
bank-notes.
It
was small enough
said to have carried
it
to
first
be carried under
with him
This piano may now be seen
Washington.
The
silk.
friend of Zinzendorf, brought over the
piano used in America.

the arm,
instead of
which were worked before 1790
for birthday gifts, each intended to hold
Count Lemcke, the
wood used
In Figures 155 and 156 are shown pic-
irons for smoothing linen.
initials
In the Sister-House there
when
in the
invited
Smithsonian
68
Count Zinzendorf, the promoter and founder
the Pennsyl-
of
vania settlement of Moravians, lived for a time in Philadelphia, and,
according to his portraits, dressed simply in the fashion of his day

in
The long coat with many buttons and no
Germany.
collar or flaps,
white shirt sleeves gathered into a band at the wrist, and a cravat
or stock of plain white linen remind one of the portraits of William
Penn about
gown
The
dress of the Seventh
It consisted of
and
front,
Day
portrait of
Baptists
is
him
and a
close-fitting
Pietists
in
a preaching
and
interesting.
stole,
hood with large capes, or
may
Provincial
in
peculiar
a sort of cassock over which hung a
picture of one of these hoods
German
years earlier.
fifty
is
both back
flaps.
be seen in a scholarly book,
Pennsylvania,"
Sachse, where the curious customs of the
by Mr. Julius F.
German
munities before 1700 are graphically described.
"The
religious
com-
Seventeenth Century Silver.

Figure
159.
Two
pomanders
One
One
snuff-box
Two
patch boxes
pair buckles
One watch fob

One porringer
of
Dutch
silver
Travelling case with knife, fork, and spoon
One
sugar basin
Hot milk jug

One cream pitcher
One
pair salt cellars
Two
sugar tongs
One cake basket

One pap cup.
Other Colonial Utensils.

.Figure
160.
Two
One
Dutch knife-boards
flip
glass
Two
tinder boxes
One
One
One
One
One
One
One
One
powder horn
pair snuffers
pewter pepper pot
pewter porringer
pewter tankard
pewter dish
folding pocket-knife
and two
two-pronged table fork.
forks
DtgflaoO by
Google
PART
II
THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
WOMEN'S DRESS
i
700-1 800
During the Time of

Jûeen Anne, George
I,
II,
and III of England,
Presidents Washington and
Adams
Digitized by
Google
CAPRICES OF FASHION.
"The
fickle
head-dress sinks, and
now
aspires
towery front of lace on branching wires;
The curling hair in

Or round the face
How
shall I soar,
tortur'd ringlets flows,

in labour'd
order grows.
and on unwearying wing
Trace varying habits upward
to their spring?
What force of thought, what numbers can

The inconstant equipage of female dress?
How
How
express
the strait stays the slender waist constrain,

to
What
adjust
the
mantua's sweeping train?
fancy can the petticoat surround,
With the capacious hoop of whalebone bound?

But stay presumptuous Muse! nor boldly dare
The
toilette's
sacred mysteries declare;
Let a just distance be
None
to
beauty paid;
here must enter but the trusty maid.
Should you the wardrobe's magazine rehearse,
And
glossy manteaus rustle in thy verse;
Should you the rich brocaded
suit unfold,
Where rising flowers grow stiff with frosted gold,

The dazzling Muse would from her subject stray,
And in a maze of fashions lose her way."
"The
175
Women's Dress
1700-1800
"Snuff or the fan supply each pause of chat."
N THE
half of the eighteenth century,
first
which
was the most prosperous and comfortable period
was a con-
of Colonial life in America, fashion
spicuous element.
Merchant ships from China and the Indies

brought
to
names,
corruptions
silken
Uninterrupted
material
at that time
first
intercourse
the Colonists to keep
These
im-
with
up with the
in
London
in
places
instance,
of
their
we have
Nankin, China; and
calico,
England and France enabled
prevailing fashions in dress, which
England who,
at second-hand,"
the
for
imported from Calicut in India.
became most whimsical and
were many people
like
capricious.
But as there
Mrs. Hardcastle, "only en-
and depended on the
friends for descriptions of the fashions, so
la
tapestry.
of
Thus,
Nankeen, made
originally a
to
silks,
known by odd sounding
were
stuffs
manufacture.
eenth Century.
in the
towns rich
161.
Sacque, Early Eight
joyed
and
china
beautiful
ported
Figure
seaport
the
all
and embroidered gauzes, as well as
tissues,
many
letters of their
of the leading families
Colonies also living remote from seaport towns were content
follow
at
a distance the bewildering transitions prescribed
mode.
77
by
78
Before the days of fashion plates, jointed dolls were dressed in
and sent from Paris
the latest style
to
London every month.
Not
quite so often, but at regular intervals, similar dolls were sent to the
The mantua-makers
Colonies.
"The
In
fashionable patrons.
of the
day copied them
London
the delay in the arrival of one of these dolls in
"I was almost
when
in despair of ever seeing
Sunday
last
Seven Stars in King
was
and as soon as ever
address, I
went
would not be back again

renew
my
just
we have
was
described:
me
whisper
Covent Garden,
come from
Paris.
over, having learnt the milliner's
all
King
Street,
but was told
at a person of quality's in Pall
until late that night.
foot.
You
Mall and
was therefore obliged
morning and had then a
visit this
puppet from head to

I find
it
directly to her house in
French lady was
that the
is
utmost impatience during the remaining part of the
in the
service,
to
Street,
was a Mademoiselle completely dressed
there
their
a model from the dear country,
overheard a lady in the next pew to
to another that at the
for
Spectator," the anxiety caused by
full
view of the dear
how ridiculously
war and how infinitely
cannot imagine
been trussed up during the
the French dress excels ours."
This puppet, we are
and
told,
was dressed "in a cherry coloured gown
petticoat with a short 'working' apron, her hair
divided very prettily with several ribbons stuck
The
by
milliner assured
all
high.
me
that her complexion
the ladies of the best fashion in Paris.
Her necklace was
in
it.
worn
tied be-
the fashion dolls were longer in their voyage to the Colonies,
by the London
tell
is
Her head was extremely
immoderate length, being
they were apparently expected with the
portrait
was such as
a manner that the two ends hung down to her girdle."
fore in such
Though
of an
was cut and
up and down
may
satirist.
tribe
whose
be seen in Figures 166 and 167 speak, she would surely
us that she received a
the people
same eagerness described
Could the representative of her
of
warm welcome and was
"the best fashion
in
Philadelphia."
entertained
by
Her costume
REIGNS OF QUEEN ANNE AND GEORGE
1702-1725
Figure
162.
A Colonial costume of 1711, gown of buff
flowers over a blue silk hooped petticoat.
The elbow
chine" silk
with variegated
The open skirt is pinked
at the edges.
sleeves are rather loose with large armholes reaching
on
to the
shoulder, the seams being covered by revers of silk which taper slightly at the
waist.
of the
curls
The picture is taken from a genuine old gown lent by a direct descendant
original owner (for back see Figure 174).
The hair is arranged in soft
drawn back loosely from the forehead and fastened

Long loose curls fall on each shoulder.
to the
head with
combs.
Figure
163.
little
The
typical
costume of a gentleman from 1702 to 1720, differing but
from the fashion of William and Mary's reign (Figure
The
42).
periwig
with big curls arranged high on top and hanging in long drop curls to the front
The
is sometimes called the " campaign wig " and it was usually powdered.
square-toed shoes have red heels, according to the fashion introduced in
Queen
Anne's reign.
Figure
164.
A Colonial costume of George
in the National
Museum, Independence
I's reign.
The
gown
original
Hall, Philadelphia.
It is of
is
now
yellow
damask silk and looped back with narrow braid and buttons. The bodice is
trimmed with ruchings of the material pinked, and the edges of the skirt are
finished in the same way.
The hooped petticoat in the picture is of white
satin, and the slippers match the gown.
The hair is arranged in a low pompadour without powder, which, though occasionally worn with court dress
England, was not in general wear for
Figure
165.
women
Two variations of fashion for men
in
the knee
These are the fastening of the garters

and the wearing of a ramilie wig tied with a
changed, but the
tails
are stiffened with
shown in
with small buckles below
George
this figure.
the nape of the neck, and powdered white.
The
I's reign
are
large black ribbon

style of the
coat
bow
is
at
not
buckram or wadding and waistcoats
were often elaborately trimmed with lace or embroidery.
Square-toed shoes
were gradually giving way to a more pointed shape, but red heels were
in high favour.
in
until 1750.
still
181
proclaims that she arrived during the reign of George
I,
probably
about 1720.
Mrs. Vanderbilt, in her "Social History of Flatbush,"
"We
have a vivid remembrance of the old age of one of these
says:
fashion-dolls
maker
in
which had been sent from Paris
New
When
York.
to
a fashionable mantua-
was changed as
the dress
to style, the
dressmaker sold the doll to one of her customers, and 'Miss Nancy
Dawson' passed
into the obscurity of
humbler
who had
dollies,
never
been sent as ministers plenipotentiary from the Court of Fashion."
REIGN OF QUEEN ANNE

"
Tho'
stiff
with hoop
And armed
with ribs of whale.
" Invention
To
we bestow,
change a flounce, or add a furbelow." *
Queen Anne came
to the throne of
that introduced under William
in 1702,
and Mary (Figures
The
1711 two striking changes are noted.

dress
in
England
eight or nine years of her reign, dress differed but
first
Spectator," gave
way
hair, noticeable in the portraits
ladies of her Court.
"I remember
says:
high, that at present
We
in vain against
from
38, 42), but in
so scathingly satirized
a simple arrangement of natural
by Knellerf of Queen Anne and the
This change
several ladies
is
applauded by Addison, who
who were once
want some inches
read that these gigantic
sailles in spite of
to
for the
little
extravagantly high head-
and cap, the "tower and commode,"
"The
and
near seven feet
of five."
commodes
held their place at Ver-
the disapproval of the old monarch,
towering head-dresses.
who
protested
In 17 14, two English ladies
with their hair worn low having been presented at the French Court,
Louis
XIV
said
to the wives of the courtiers,
"If Frenchwomen
were reasonable beings they would at once give up their ridiculous

Rape
of the Lock.
Bo"1
l64 6 I died *7*3-
i8a
How
head-dresses and wear their hair in the English fashion."
could the court ladies bear to be called "ridiculous," especially by

their
They very soon made
king?
set the fashion for
The
For once,
a pleasing turn of the
France
and destined
Selby, in 171 1,
sway over feminine
to hold its
awkward
these most
and
in the
At
inventions.
in
many
taste for
had been looped back over contrasting
England
tables!
one form or another
years.
petticoats
Dresses which
were hung out over
they were rather
first
flat
in
back (Figure 162), projecting out on each side over
was
the hips to such an extent that the wearer
Mr. Wingfield,
a door sideways.
in
the king's
in
at least,
next transformation was the hoop, invented by a mantua-
maker named
front
appearance
their
with their hair dressed low.*
circle
his
in
often obliged to enter
"Notes on
Costume
Civil
England," remarks that "in a sedan chair a lady would some-
times pull
up her hoop on both
chairs were used in

colonial
The
all
dames probably
sacque, the
many
in use for
hung
in
ground over the large hooped
and worn over a
As sedan
same expedient.
resorted to the
name
loose over-dress, at this time

to the
sides of her like wings."
the English colonies of America, fashionable
petticoat
wide
years to designate the
from the shoulders
plaits
petticoat.
It
was open
and stomacher of the same
in front
material,
although a contrast of colour and of material was also popular.
garment was invariably worn
and France, and
by women of fashion
At
first
as in Figure 161, then short to the knees
170);
later
it
This
England
in the Colonies for at least half of the century.
survived several generations of change.

full
in
became a
it
It
was long and
and very
full
(Figure
graceful, stately garment, transformed
by
a few curved lines and worn over a laced stomacher and satin
petticoat
trimmed with flounces (Figure
of sacque
all
is
204).
usually called a " Watteau."
materials and worn by
all
classes until
This charming variety

Sacques were made
1777.
* History of Fashion in France, by Challomel.
in
Digitized by
Google
Dgtoed by Google

"Let your gown be a sacque,
And
your elbows with
frizzle
185
blue, yellow or green,

ruffles sixteen;
Furl off your lawn apron with flounces in rows,

Puff and pucker up knots on your arms and your toes;
Make
May
your petticoat short, that a hoop eight yards wide

decently
show how your
garters are ty'd.
But mount on French heels when you go

'Tis the fashion to totter,
to
and show you can
ball,
fall."*
Figures 168 and 169 show the style of hood in general wear by
women
of
all
ranks from 1690 to 1750.
Figure
A Camlet Hood;
dames
it
original
Figure
168.
taken from an Original Garment of about 1702.
to us for this book,
match, for
The
is
made
of
made them
*
The Beau's
of
169.
Reign of Queen Anne.
drab camlet and lined with
belonged to a Colonial Quakeress.
of that time
hood, lent
gay
silk,
The
silk to
fashionable
according to contemporary
Receipt for a Lady's Dress.

The
authority.
cherry coloured hoods were

in coloured silk
was
we now
pink colour and the
"One
thus described:
is
was
fifth
of a pale green.
upon a bed
a black
of
silk petticoat
them
of a
looked upon this
of tulips."*
we can form
In one of the papers
of the garments sent to the Colonies.
of
and
group of ladies
advertisements of this date (17 12) in England,
some idea
we read
and another philomot; the fourth was
parti-coloured assembly as
From
find of various colours;
the rage, in 171 2.
all
hoods at the theatre
blue, another yellow
little
commonly
hood, which in the previous reign was
of black silk, velvet, or sarsenet,
with a red and white calico border,
a red and dove coloured damask
gown
flowered with large
trees,
yellow satin apron trimmed with white Persian muslin, and headcloths with crow-foot edging.
An
Isabella coloured kincob
a dark coloured cloth
a purple and gold atlas gown

with
silver;
gown
gown and
flowered with green and gold;
petticoat with
two
silver orrices;
a scarlet and gold atlas petticoat edged
an underpetticoat edged with gold; a black
velvet petti-
an allejah petticoat striped with green, gold and white; and
coat;
clogs laced with silver are also mentioned.
In the same year were advertised "a green

with gold and silver flowers
all
and
and a
on
silver thick lace
satin, red
and white
it;
all in
"a
it,
silk knit
waistcoat
and fourteen yards
of gold
petticoat of rich strong flowered
great flowers or leaves, and scarlet flowers
with black specks brocaded
over
in,
raised high like velvet or shag."f
lady's riding suit of this period
is
described as consisting of
coat and waistcoat of blue camlet trimmed and embroidered
with
silver,
with a petticoat of the same
stuff,
by which alone her sex
was recognized, as she wore a smartly cocked beaver

silver
and rendered more sprightly by a
and powdered, hung

tied like that of
*
The
Spectator.
hat,
edged with
feather, while her hair, curled
to a considerable length
down
her shoulders,
a rakish young gentleman, with a long streaming

f Pictorial History of England.
Figure 170. Picture of a short Watteau sacque worn over a petticoat to match
and trimmed with ruchings of the same. It is taken from a garment in the
South Kensington Museum, London, and is of biscuit-coloured taffeta with
a damask pattern and scattered flowers and butterflies hand painted in watercolours a specimen of the fancy-work of some lady of ease in the first half
of the Georgian era.
It is probable that this style of sacque was often made
of Persian or dimity for
under the chin
is
home wear
in the Colonies.
The cap
often seen in contemporary pictures.
of muslin tied
FlGUKE
170.

But powder was not
riband."*
scarlet
189
in general use
by ladies at
this time.
In Queen Anne's day patches meant more than one would suppose; they were not used simply to enhance the beauty of the com-
worn as
plexion, but were
The
political badges.
ladies with
sympathies wore these patches on the left-hand side of the

Tories on the right.
of this fashion in
greatly
Mr. Andrew Lang has suggested
conversation.
way
profess their opinion by
are and could
that a revival
War would
have
"If Pro-Boer ladies would
only
England during the South African
facilitated
Whig
face, the
of patches,
make no such mistakes
as
we
should
now
know where we
occasionally occur in
conversation."
Patch boxes (Figure 159) were carried,

every shape; under the
lid of
the fair lady in adjusting them.

ivory,
same
and
with patches of
glass to assist
These boxes were made
and were
tortoise shell,
filled
was placed a small
the box
of silver,
often, like the snuff-boxes of the
period, very costly.
"That
little
an indispensable
of the
modish machine," as Addison
"We
Fan," says:
called the fan,
can scarcely imagine the rouged and pow-
dered .beauty of the eighteenth century without the fascinating

ket in her hand.
Both
become the mirror

and
in
England and
of the life
in
France
and pleasure
social events, literature, music,
the day, were depicted
was
Flory, in his "History
article of fashionable dress.
upon them.
it
trin-
had gradually
of the time.
and the fashions and
Political
follies of
Some were covered with words
and bars from operas, or with scenes from popular
plays, others
bore the rules of various games, within decorative borders of playing

cards."
from Ovid
picture of a fan painted by

is
fortune-telling fans,
social
caricatures."
Gamble
representing a scene
"There were calendar
fans,
fans with riddles and charades, political and
One
is
noted representing the separation of
America from England.

*
The
Spectator.
190
Addison declares there
is
an
flutter,
There
is
the angry flutter, the modest
the timorous flutter, the merry flutter, and the amorous flutter.
is
scarce
any condition
disciplined lady, I
know whether
have seen a fan so angry that

absent lover
who provoked
mind which does not produce a
in the
insomuch that
suitable agitation in the fan,
and
motions to be made
infinite variety of
"There
use of in the flutter of a fan.
it
it,
if
I only see the fan of
she laughs, frowns or blushes.
would have been dangerous
for the
have come within the wind of
to
at other times so languishing, that I
it;
have been glad for the lady's
sake that the lover was at a certain distance from
it."
"What daring Bard shall e'er attempt to tell

The powers that in this little engine dwell?
What verse can e'er explain its various parts,
Its
numerous
Its
shake triumphant,
Its
angry
uses, motions,
flutter,
its
and
charms and
arts?
virtuous clap,
its
wanton tap."
REIGN OF GEORGE
Black and white beaver hats for ladies were advertised
in 17 19,
faced with coloured silks and trimmed with gold or silver lace.
sacque was
in
721,
and
still
in
The
vogue.
of Lancret,
who
paintings of Watteau,
To
The
died
died in 1724, are to a certain extent the
authorities for the dress of the preceding reign
"She
who
(Queen Anne).
takes her muff and goes

see
some one she knows."
In 1720 women's muffs were narrow and long, the crossed hands
filled
one exactly; afterward they became wider.
In various forms
they continued in fashion throughout the century.

Stays, or
"a
paire of bodices," as they were called in the early
part of the seventeenth century, were considered a necessary article

of
woman's
stiff
and
modern
dress throughout the eighteenth century,
and
very, very
straight-laced were these colonial great-grandmothers of our

corset!
(Figure 188.)
FicruRE 171.
Shows a gown of yellow damask brocade worn over a blue quilted
satin petticoat.
Figure
172.
Shows
Reign
of
George
I.
a white satin wedding
gown worn by Mrs.
St.
Clair in
Philadelphia, 1760.
Figure 173. Picture of a blue lutestring gown worn by the same lady.
Figure 174. Is a very interesting dress of buff chine" silk, with coloured flowers,
worn by Lady Stuart in the Barbadoes Colony in the reign of Queen Arme.
(Photographed from original garments.)
Figure
171.
Figure
172.

About 1720 temple
came
spectacles
any
spectacles," without
of tortoise shell or silver, were carried
summer
by gallants
of black velvet (Figure 194)
with a silver mouth-piece to keep

in
and held on
for riding in the
in the Colonies they
it
on
was
with
much
London.
worn
in winter
green silk masks were used
sun on horseback, while for young
were made of linen and
hoods,
The
(Figure 175).
by nip-
tied
on under
called
was
hair
cap or
frilled
II
"cardinals," were
still
girls
their hoods.
time hooped petticoats were less exaggerated.
this
cloaks
in
often
REIGN OF GEORGE
At
solely
Perspective glasses, with long handles
ping the bridge of the nose.
A mask
into use; afterward "bridge
side supporters
worn
worn low and was
Scarlet
out-of-doors
often covered by
hat of moderate dimensions (Figure 195).
flat
During the next decade the caps became smaller, but the hats larger
(Figure 216).
The
use
of
according to Mr. Wingfield, was never
powder,
general in England, although
mony
in the reigns of
it
was worn on
and was extremely fashionable from 1760
worn
habitually
In 1735
now made
coat being
Lace
to
we
in
tippets
hook them
occasions of cere-
home
life
to 1776;
but
short
it
sexes,
was not
with everyday costumes.
notice a change in the shape of the hoop,
around
to project all
worn
all
George II and George III by both
like the
which was
wheel farthingale, the
and the gown without a
petti-
train (Figure 196).
were now much worn, some having diamond
solitaires
Very broad laced tuckers, with diamond
together.
necklaces and earrings, were popular.
Diamond and
paste buckles
were also very fashionable.

Mrs. Delany, who has been called not only the
in her
own
age, but "the
charming costumes.
large)
woman
The
woman
of fashion
of fashion of all ages," records
following
is
some
dated 1738 (when hoops were
194
"After
much
persuasion and
sented to go with
dres't in
my
Lady Dysart
many
debates within myself
con-
humbly
to the Prince's birthday,
pink Damask, white and gold handkerchief, plain green

ribbon and
my
Lady Sun-
buckles
derland's
The
stays."
for
stays,
meaning the
evidently
stomacher, were on this

occasion straps of white
covered with a lac-
silk
which
through
ing
handkerchief
This costume
passed.
is
was
not unlike the yellow
damask gown
(Figures
164 and
worn
183)
in
Philadelphia in 1740.
Head-dresses at this
time were
lace
made
ruffles
stand
up
and
to
front.
in
"Caskades
of three
tucked
of ribands"
flowers
artificial
were used as trimming.

FlGURE
Lady
They were worn over
175.
in a Cardinal (after Hogarth, Early Eighteenth
Century).
powdered
up
hair
quite short
pinned
in
the
down on
the
Mrs. Delany says: "I go to-morrow to pay
my
back, and sometimes large curls were worn hanging

shoulder, as in Figure 198.
In another
letter
salutations to their Royal Highnesses at Carlton
green
Damask and my worked head
House
in
on the birthday, which
my
is
Irish
Tues-

day
next, in a flowered silk, I
bought since
latter
218, 230.
think
unlike
not
is
it
Colonial
much
pretty narrow at the bottom.
hoops are as
closer than before;

stiff,
gown
represented
Figures
in
and
the same, large at the elbows

I
The
extremely pretty and very modest."
the
"Ruffles are
to town, of
and mixed with
pale deer-coloured ground, the flowers mostly purple,
white feathers.
195
came
think they pin their gowns rather
flat
as
the shape sloping from the hips
if
made of
pasteboard, and as
and spreading
at the
bottom
(Figures 164 and 183), enormous but not so ugly as the square hoops
There are hopes that they
(Figure 162).
very small
size.
accompaniment
of curli-murlis;
Heads are variously
will
soon be reduced to a
dressed,
pompons with some

lappets in
of feathers, ribbons or flowers;
all
sorts
long hoods are worn close under the chin, or tied
with bows and ends behind."
Figure
176.
Figure
Figure
177.
178.
Figure
Figure
179.
Caps, 1744.
Long aprons were worn

long ones again.
the
180.
Figure
181.
Caps, 1745.
in 1740,
then short ones, and before 1752
In the same year (1740)
we hear
of a successor to
hood under the name of "capuchin."
The
description which Mrs.
worn by the Duchess
Delany gives of a marvellous
of Queensbury, in 1741,
as a curious specimen of needle-work.

broidered, the bottom of the petticoat
sorts of weeds,
is
toilet
worth transcribing
"It was of white satin em-
brown
hills
covered with
and every breadth had an old stump of a
all
tree that
ran up almost to the top of the petticoat broken and ragged and
worked with brown

suckle,
chenille,
periwinkle and
all
round which twined nasturtiums, honeysorts of twining
flowers,
which spread
ig6
and covered the
petticoat;
vines with the leaves variegated as you

all
rather smaller than nature, which
The
robings and facings were like green
have seen them by the sun,
made them
look very
banks covered with
gown
the
light.
and the
sorts of weeds,
all
loose twining branches of the
same
ticoat.
Many
stumps
of the trees looked like gilding of the sun.
piece of
for not
of the leaves were finished with gold,
work so
having the same thought, for
mine and could not have
cost
French curls (Figure 196),

as looking
eggs
like
They were
head.
The
natural hair.
always
is
it
rest of
on the
and part
I
pet-
of the
never saw a
quite angry with myself

infinitely
much more."
the mode in
handsomer than
1745, were described
order on a wire tied around the
strung in
not
am
and
prettily fancied
and
sleeves
sort as those
false,
was
crepe toupee
be
but could
made
of
the
also a contemporary fashion.
Later came in the Italian curls (Figure 184), which had the
effect
of scollop shells and were arranged back from the face in several
shapes.
In the
tele
close all over the
de mouton, or
tele
moutonee, the hair was curled
back of the head.
In the summer of 1745 Gipsy straw hats appeared, being tied
under the chin (Figure
We
find that in
minished in front;
195).
745 the hoop had increased at the sides and di-
and a pamphlet was published
in that
year en-
"The Enormous Abomination of the Hoop Petticoat

Fashion now is" (Figure 184). The hoop of this period was
titled
as the
a great
bell-shaped petticoat or skirt of the dress stiffened by whalebone.
The
material
gown
itself,
was placed
it
directly
was customary
to
upon
it,
so that, being a part of the
speak of "a damask hoop" or "a
brocade hoop."
Deportment was quite as important as dress

world of the eighteenth century.
boards and of most unyielding
The
in the fashionable
Those were the days of back-
stays.
expression "she bridles well," which occurs in letters of this
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time (1747), alludes to a manner of carriage which
"One
unknown.
was
which
in,
up
to hold
expressed
is
at the door, to
first
of the first lessons in
deportment at that period
on entering a room, and
the head
by
199
now almost
is
to
keep the chin
and then, having curtseyed
'bridling,'
advance deliberately towards the person who had the
claim to greeting
to
sink low gradually
to
rise
slowly and
gracefully."*
The Boston "Evening Post"
advertised
in
November,
1755,
"horse hair quilted coats to wear with negligees."

It
is
difficult
to determine the exact limitations of a negligee.
1721+
Figure 186.
175+Figure 187.
Hooped
It
was worn
in full dress
Petticoats.
The
and was another variety of the sacque.
advertisement quoted suggests an outdoor garment, a quilted coat
worn under
it
for
warmth.
" Put on her a sheperdee
short sack or negligee
Ruffled high to keep her
warm
Eight or ten about an arm."f
A
made
garment which became very popular about 1756 was a cloak

of satin or velvet, black or
silk, satin,
any
colour, lined or
or fur, according to the fancy, with
trimmed with
slits for
* Mrs. Woolsey's Notes to Autobiography of Mrs. Delany.
Poem
printed in
New
York, 1756.
the
arms
to
200
These cloaks were worn
pass through, and a hood like a capuchin.
by everybody and were
called
pompadours (Figure
night-rails correspond
Night-gowns or
to
One
gowns and were worn without hoops.
is
216).
our modern dressingrepresented in Figure
243 with a short cape over a skirt instead of a sacque.
An
historian of Connecticut tells us that "the dress of the middle
period can hardly be praised for
upper
circles
it
was
rich
its
simplicity or economy.
In the
and extravagant, and among the females
Figure
188.
Stays, 1770.
of all classes there

of attire.
It
was a passion
was an object
for gathering
of ambition to
and hoarding
have a chest
articles
full of linen,
a pillow-beer of stockings, and other articles in proportion, laid by."
The
August
inventory of the effects of Mrs. White of Norwich,* taken

16,
1757, contained
plain stuff, black
silk,
"gowns
crape, calico
brown duroy,
striped stuff,
and blue camlet; a
scarlet cloak,
of
blue cloak, satin flowered mantle, and furbelow scarf;

* History of Norwich, by F.
M.
Caulkins.
a woolen

petticoat with calico border, a camlet riding-hood, long silk hood,
hood trimmed with
velvet hood, white
lace,
silk
bonnet, and nineteen
caps; a cambrick laced handkerchief, silk do, linen do, sixteen handkerchiefs in
in
a muslin laced apron, flowered laced apron, greer
all;
aprons
apron, fourteen
taffety
all;
and
girdle
riband,
silver
blue
girdle,
silver
four
pieces of flowered satin, a par-
and a woman's
crewel,
of
cel
a gold necklace, death's
fan;
head gold
Figure
ring, plain gold ring,
189.
Clog, Eighteenth Century (from an
Old
Print).
gold sleeve buttons, gold
sett of
and a stone button
locket, silver hair peg, silver cloak clasps,

silver tankard,
a large
silver;
set in
a silver cup with two handles, a cup
with one handle, and a large silver spoon."
We know
that a salmon-coloured
made with a sacque and

in
Figure
Patten (from the Origi-
nal in the
rial Hall,
Museum
this
waistcoat or stomacher)
case,
the correct thing in
190.
one for his wife
Memo-
at
ton's
Philadelphia).
own
tabby
coat (probably,
is
writing.
1759, as
an order
was
for
preserved in Washing-
In the same order
we
read of "a cap, handkerchief and ruffles of

Brussels or Point lace to be worn with the above negligee, to cost 20."
Also two fine flowered aprons
One
Four
pair
One
One
women's white
silk
hose
pairs thread hose
Six pairs
women's
fine cotton
hose
pair black satin shoes

pair white satin shoes of smallest s's
Four pairs calamanco shoes
One
fashionable hat or bonnet
Six pairs
women's
best kid gloves
Eight pairs women's best mits
One dozen round
silk laces

One black mask
One dozen most fashionable pocket handkerchiefs
One piece of narrow white satin ribbon with pearl edge
Four pieces of binding tape
Six thousand miniken pins
Six thousand short whites
Six thousand corking pins
One thousand
The
hair pins.
following note from Washington's manuscripts shows the
"Mrs. Wash-
sacque and a night-gown:
relationship
between a
ington sends
home a green sack to get cleaned, or fresh dyed of the

made into a handsome sack again, would be her choice,
same
but
colour;
the cloth
if
wont afford
The
night-gown."*
latter
that,
then to be thrown into a genteel
being the
name
old-fashioned
for
dressing-gown.
REIGN OF GEORGE
In 1760 gowns began to be worn with a
in a long point in the
were worn,
191.
oured
in
Felt.
The
Museum
the
at
Hall, Philadelphia.
George
II
and
original
of
opening over a petticoat, the
still
often
latter
Figure
bodice ending
back (Figures 209, 210, an, and 213), the

skirt sewn on with a multiplicity of fine
gathers,
Riding-hat of Fawn-col-
III
close-fitting
fancy.
beautifully
too,
quilted.
Aprons
according to the dictates
Occasionally
stomacher
and
is
Memorial
apron matched, as
in
Figure 206.
Sleeves
Reigns of
were
III.
still
trimmed with
ruffles
of
lace,
but often were edged with narrow cuffs

turned back, the lace falling from underneath (Figures 205 and 230).
Every lady of fashion wore an

from the
The
waist, intended to hold
snuff-box, the
and used
among
etui,
or ornamental case, hanging
thimble, scissors, and scent bottle.
pomander, a box with perforated holes
for perfumes,
and the pouncet box,
in the lid
of a similar nature,
were
the elegant accessories of the toilet of the eighteenth century

* Writings of George Washington, edited by
Wm.
C. Ford.
T!
sA $
o S
WO
.2
*!
O
eg
for both
205
made
use of the po-
manders
Physicians
(See Figure 159.)
sexes.
sometimes they had them inserted
to carry disinfectants;
the handle of their canes,
and a tap on the
floor as they entered
in
sick-room would scatter the powder through the atmosphere.
The
own
recipe books of the time, written
many
use and pleasure, have in
Turning over the yellowed leaves
posterity.
careful
by each housewife
penmanship
dame, an aroma
of the eighteenth century
for her
handed down
cases been
to
of one written in the
by a notable
New York
agreeable spices seems to
of
emanate from the pages as we read the following:
"Pot Pourri
"Dry your
violets in
Have
a sunny window.
ready a quarter of a pound of finely powdered
bay
When
salt.
and dry
kinds,
them
to the
tween each
the
violets,
putting
all
the flowers
be constantly
Here
is
be-
figure 194
Riding-mask, Eighteenth Century.
in
stirred for
if
salt
lavendar, also the
and orange blossoms.
possible, myrtle
have
filled
the jar,
its
contents should
a month."
Seville orange,
and
and spread the
dry mix them with a
little
bay
and powdered musk.
Old India
stick
it
as
Pick the rose leaves when
jar.
are ready to drop,
peel,
and
of
another recipe from the same book:
"Take a
lemon
salt
"Gather a good deal
it
Then add
layers of
leaves of the verbena, and,
Put
out, gather all
same way.
layer.
*~*
After
are
roses
the
in
full
full
as possible of cloves.
blown, but before they
When
petals to dry in the sun.
salt,
some cinnamon, ground
Stir for
some time
until well
cloves,
mixed."
jars filled with pot pourri stood in almost every house,
and
lent a subtle fragrance to the draperies
was
of the
same
origin as the use of
and
carpets.
This custom
pomanders.
Research on the subject of wedding
veils at this period
has pro-
2o6
duced nothing more satisfactory than the following passage from
Mr.
Cordy
J.
"The
"Brides and Bridals":
Jeffreson's
origin of the English bride's veil
most
the
conspicuous feature of
more than a
of late years
costume
her
may be
became
nothing
which
in old
not a few of the bride's personal attractions and
when she
covered her face
I,
one of those disputed
milliner's substitute for the flowing tresses,
times concealed
supported
is
What
questions which will never be settled.
by the
knelt at
was not thought
to require
an
This
the altar.
fact that Elizabeth
opinion
nature had
artificial veil, since
Heyward
given her such an abundance of circumfluent hair.
is
James
Stuart, daughter of
says
of this wedding:
'At length the blushing bride
comes with her
hair disheveled aslant her shoulders.'
"It
may
be a mere amplification of the
coif
which medieval brides
used to wear between the garland and the hair, of such a

instance, as
coif, for
Margaret Tudor wore under the coronet at her wedding
with the King of Scotland."

In the early years of the reign of George III the
veil
and wreath
fell
so completely out of vogue that they were for a time seldom seen on
Horace Walpole, an earnest
brides of the "best ton."

in all trivial matters,
He
forms.
lovely than
was pleased by
social
reformer
the neglect of old matrimonial
mentions that his niece Maria had never appeared more
when he watched
the alternate blushes
and paleness
of
her unveiled face during her celebration of marriage with the Earl
of
Waldegrave.
The
bride wore a hat
and when the marriage
room
of
party sat
ning.
service
and a white and
had been performed
silver
in the
gown,
drawing-
a private mansion in Pall Mall by Dr. Keppel, the bridal
down
to dinner,
which was over at eight o'clock
in the eve-
"It was," wrote Walpole to George Montague, "as sensible
a wedding as ever was."

of the reign of
George
II.
This wedding took place
in the last year
REIGNS OF GEORGE
AND
II
1725-1745
Tigcre
An everyday
195.
It is
made
Colonial costume
fawn coloured
of
moire" camlet,
worn in Massachusetts about 1725.

and opens over a stiffened petticoa
The ruffle of an under garment of fine linen with knife-plaited

turns down over the dress at the neck like a falling band.
The original
of durant.
sleeves
gown
exceedingly interesting as a specimen of the ordinary attire of the
is
The hat worn over a ruffled cap was the popular style of that time,
made familiar to us in the pictures of Hogarth and others.
Figure 196. A Colonial gown of kincob, a very rich brocade imported from
China. The original dress was owned by a sister of Governor Hancock of
Massachusetts, Mrs. Whittington Allen. It was evidently made to wear over
a large hoop (about 1735) and clears the ground. The stomacher is of white
period.
embroidered, the sleeves reach to the elbow and are finished with
silk richly
full
graduated so that they hang long in the back and are short in
pinked
ruffles
front.
The back
of this beautiful old
which hang out over the hooped
gown
skirt.
is
made with two
It is of the style
large
box
plaits
popularly termed a
Watteau sacque and very fashionable in the Colonies from 1720 to 1776. The
front of the skirt is made of two breadths of the kincob tied round the waist over
the hooped skirt. The coiffure on this figure, known as French curls, was very
fashionable at that time. Shoes match the gown, they have high heels and
straps of the brocade pulled through handsome buckles.
A strap of wide silver
galloon runs up the front of the shoe and at the back from heel to counter;
see first pair of slippers in Figure 262.
Figure
197.
hat.
A young gallant of George
He
wears the
II's reign in
a full-dress suit and a cocked
latest fashion in ties, 1740.
Figure 198. A Colonial gown of green taffeta worn by Mrs. Wilimina Weemys
Moore in Philadelphia about 1740 and lent for this book by a direct descendant.
It is trimmed with ruchings and flounces of the material pinked.
The bodice
is laced in front over a white stomacher and is made without box plaits in the
back
(see Figure 174).
portrait
and
and
fastens
is
The
not powdered.
hair in the picture
As
is
copied from a contemporary
in Figure 196, the front of the skirt
round the waist over a hooped
is
separate
petticoat, evidently with a view to
wearing a variety of combinations, for in the case of the kincob gown there
was a white
satin front to alternate with the kincob front.
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In the Colonies the
article of
veil
a bride's costume.
does not seem to have been a necessary

Several beautiful wedding
gowns which
have been handed down with care
from early
in the eighteenth cen-
tury are of coloured brocade or
damask
(Figures 184, 213).
Orange-blossoms
were
not
used as wedding flowers until a
modern
comparatively
date,
although orange trees were growing in England at the time of
Henry VIII.
We read of an English bride *

in 1769
who wore "a sacque and
petticoat of the
brocaded white
network
flowers,
most expensive
resembling
silk,
with
small
which displayed
in the
enriched
variations of the folds a most deli-
cate shade of pink; a deep
and
pointed stomacher trimmed with
gimp; sleeves closely
fitted
the
elbow, from which hung three

point-lace ruffles of great depth;
a handkerchief of the same lace

covered the shoulders, fastened
in front with
a large bow of white
satin ribbon
and a bunch
cate pink rosebuds.
of deli-
A triple row
of pearls tied behind with a nar-
Figure
Maid
in Sacque,
row white satin ribbon completed

* Mrs. Joseph Nollekens, wife of the noted sculptor.
10
199.
Apron, and Clogs.
Eighteenth Century.
Middle

the costume, although
in full dress
"The
had gone out
at that date.
and ornamented by a small cap
match the
worn by
on, but the fashion of wearing aprons
was arranged over a high cushion, with
hair
either side,
flaps to
believe a lace apron, previously
was put
the bride's mother,
The
ruffles in the sleeves.
large curls
on
of point lace with plaited
shoes were like the
gown
and were ornamented with spangles and square buckles with heels
three
and one-half inches
Lady Susan O'Brien,
in height."
living in the Colonies,
by her cousin, Lady Sarah Lennox, of the
"I think
'tis
that
by degrees the French dress
almost impossible to
make
bigger than one's body are ugly;

the heads moutorUe.
venient
behind and the

paresseuse.
coming
into fashion,
is
growing the fashion
my
off
hair
and
find
rest
wear
it
my
was
left off;
written,
for
'tis
1766],
much
the hair
and
down on
is
rest.
it
left side
it
to
false hair.
must be powdered, curled
The
rest of the hair
only
is
little, little
must be
an inch above the

flowers dab'd in the
a black or white sultane perched
and your diamond feather against
Lady Sarah Lennox
en
must be high before and give your
little.
the only feather permitted
the
*
is,
hoop.
the forehead belongs
frizzled at all for half
You must wear no cap and
left side;
up on
and not
little
equally vulgar with poppons
too pretty, but
head the look of a sugar loaf a

straight
curls
you must be dressed thus: Your hair must
very small curls and neat, but
drawn up
have
were apparently very long at the time
"To be perfectly genteel,

off,
hair
smooth with a fringe toupS and a cap; that
pompons], trimmings, beads, garnets, flying caps and
not be cut
to
very con-
very often with three rows of curls
it
Almost every body powders now, and wears a
"Hats are mostly
this letter
is
the ladies understand that heads

it
have cut
to the short waists [waists
in
in fashion in
country without powder, because
the
in
naturally
[or
was kept informed
changes
In 1766 she says:*
England.
tho'
latest
Lady Susan O'Brien
in America,
it
January
(Figure 218).
9th, 1766.
Figure
200.
Portrait
of
Mrs. Catharine Van Rensselaer, showing a popular
cap worn by elderly ladies in the last half of the eighteenth century.
(From the original portrait.)
Figure 201. Portrait of Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton in an everyday costume.
Figure 202. Portrait of Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton, Jr., showing a peculiar cap
style of
in 1784.
Figure
203.
Portrait of
Mrs.
Mary
Faneuil of Boston, reign of George
II.
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"A
broad purled ribbon
or only a
little
with the same straight

to button with
The
robing.
and
hang on the
Artificial
tight at bottom,
your gown trimmed
and a narrow flounce
the robings,
at bot-
a compere to be loose at the fore part of your
and
loose, the waist very long, the flounces
a decent length not too long, nor so hideously short as
now wear them.
tied to
down
sleeves long
ruffles of
they
ruff,
black handkerchief very narrow over the shoulders;
your stays very high and pretty
tom
213
(Figure 206), with a tippet
collier
No
trimming on the sleeve but a ribbon knot
ruffles."
worn
flowers were
in
dress.
full
We
learn from the
newspapers of the day that "the biziness of making flowers" was

a thriving one
Teachers
in Boston.
in the art of flower
We
often advertised in the Boston papers.
made a
Franklin's sister and her daughter
complishment
in the following extract
making are
read, too, that
Benjamin
practical use of this ac-
from a
letter
from Mrs. Mecom,
dated Boston, 1766:
"And
have a small request
fine old linen or
green, a
little
daughter Jenny, with a
little
flowers for ladies' heads and

if
thing by
I
am
cannot
of
my
it
afraid
From
worth our pains.
me some
all
my
art
make them good
and good old

colours.
My
making
bosoms with pretty good acceptance,
It is
am
in
hope we
shall get
some-
no matter how old the linen
is.
you never had any bad enough."
a letter of Mrs.
27th, 1766,
procure
assistance, has taken to
can procure these colours, I
It is to
blue but chiefly red, for with
Benjamin's memorandums,
and
to ask.
cambric dyed into bright colours, such as red and
we
Mecom
take the following:
to
Mrs. Franklin dated February
"We
are
now
supplied not only
with necessary but creditable clothing, for brother has sent each of
us a printed cotton gown, a quilted coat, a bonnet, each of the girls

a cap and some ribbons.
Mine
is
very suitable for
being black and purple cotton, but the
girls'
me
to
wear now,
are light coloured."*
* Letters to Benjamin Franklin from his Family and Friends, 1751-1790.

The name
bonnet, from the French bonnet, was often used through-
out the eighteenth century in speaking of caps and hoods, but the
first
was the successor
actual bonnet
part of the century,
and
we
1798
in
of the
Gipsy hat
in the latter
read that "straw bonnets were
in full fashion."
A New
England authority
wool and covered with

(Figures 222,
large
and wide, and an awkward
own good humored
us that "cushions stuffed with
in dressing the hair,
made a
its
article of attire,
depths, needing
but often shrouding
no other ornament than
smile."*
gentleman of the courteous old school remarked of
of the calash, "It
was
calash
This was
227) necessary instead of a bonnet.
226,
a health-beaming face in
its
tells
used
silk,
like
looking
down a green
this fashion
lane to see a rose
blooming at the end."
From
Norwich" quoted above we
the "History of
lowing description:
"Women
Parasols
(Figure 253).
and umbrellas were unknown or
occurrence, but a fan nearly a foot

ing like the train of a
and a
half in length,
of
rare
and spread-
peacock, was often carried to keep off the
sun as well as to catch the
air.
At one period feathers were much
worn upon the head, surmounting a high turban

raised
give the fol-
mature age wore close linen caps
of
of
gauze or muslin
on wire and adorned also with ribbon.
"A
lady in
full
dress for great occasions displayed a rich brocade
with open skirt and trained petticoat trimmed with lace;

broidered stomacher and
were of
silk.
No
full ruffles at
the elbows.
sumptuary laws restrained the feminine
rich attire at this period.
When
The
a sharp-toed
made
slipper, often
and with a high heel " (Figure
240).
scarf
taste for
the ladies walked out, they threw
the end of the train over the right arm.

silk stocking,
an em-
Hood and
foot
was dressed
in
of embroidered satin,
In winter beaver hats were worn
over a lace cap, as in Figure 216, or with the brim curved

M.
Caulkins.
downwards
REIGN OF GEORGE
II
1735-1760
Figure 204
of the
is
a picture of a very dainty Colonial gown which in 1753 formed part

outfit of Mrs. West, nie Mary Hodge, of Hope Lodge, White
wedding
The
Marsh, Pa.
colouring
purple, red, yellow
a soft fawn-coloured ground with nosegays of
is
and white flowers scattered over
The
train has a graceful
by ribbon
lace held in
sweep
The
in the back.
tied in
flounce and
in the plate.
picture shows a stomacher of
The front of
The head
bows.
The
shown
it.
falbalas are of the silk pinked, the latter graduated as
sleeves are finished with ruffles of lace.
the
gown and
the elbow
in this picture is copied
from a contemporary portrait, the powdered pompadour being adorned with
Two
a string of pearls arranged with pins.
hang on the neck
in the
Massachusetts Colony in 1750.
It is
soft curls
back.
Figure 205
represents a costume
worn
in the
of very rich crimson brocade over a petticoat of white satin.
Mrs. Faithful Hubbard, who, in
"modish gown."
skirt gathered
It is
made without a Watteau
into the bodice at the waist line.
height of fashion in 1759 and
Figure 206 shows

satin
spite of her Puritan
is
belonged to
back, like Figure 174, the
The
hair
is
arranged in the
powdered.
the green kincob
hooped petticoat with a
It
name, possessed a very
gown
full-dress
of Figure 196, arranged over a white
apron of white
silk
embroidered
The
like
and sleeve
ruffles are of lace and the "collier" of ribbon gathered into a ruche and
edged with lace. This neck arrangement as well as the hair without powder
are copied from a contemporary portrait.
Figure 207 represents the back of the kincob gown. The Watteau hangs out
the stomacher in a bright coloured Chinese pattern.
without the curved
some years
line
shown
is
wear over a large hoop.
the fashion of about 1745.
of George IPs reign, finished with a

is
gown was made

The hoop shown
The cap is a very popular style
ribbon and bow at the back. The hair
in Figure 204, as the kincob
earlier (about 1735) to
in Figure 207
fichu
powdered.
All the
gowns
in this plate
of the original owners.
have been
lent for this
book by direct descendants
217
by broad ribbon strings tied under the chin (Figure 195).

cloaks trimmed with fur were the fashion
hood on the shoulders,

In Massachusetts,
and high-heeled
Their bonnets (hoods) were of
Gowns were
stiff
silk
stays,
or satin,
extremely long-waisted with tight
A large flexible hoop,
at the elbow.
for
are told, "ladies wore caps, long
Another fashion was a very short sleeve with an immense
sleeves.
was
middle of the
short capes or a
worn by the men.
like those
we
shoes.
and usually black.
frill
the
in
also long Roquelaures with
eighteenth century,
Loose
some time
mense display
quilted into the
hem
of the lower person.
three or four feet in diameter,

of the gown,
large
making an im-
round cushion,
stuffed
with cotton or hair and covered with black crape, was laid across
head,
the
over
which
It
hair
the
was combed back and
fastened.
was almost the universal
tom, also, for

beads,
globes,
women
thirty-nine
about the
to
cus-
wear gold
little
size of
hollow
a pea,
Strung on a thread and tied round
Lftd y' s Shoe of a Cornflower-blue Serge

>
Silk,
Bound with White Ribbon.
the neck.
"Working women wore
petticoats
and
half gowns,
drawn with
a cord round the waist, and coarse leather shoes; though they generally
had a pair of 'Lynn shoes'
for
Sunday."*
In Watson's famous "Annals"
we
read:
"The women
delphia wore caps (a bare head was never seen),
from
six inches to
two
feet (Figure 184)
dressed lady entered a door like a crab.

stuff
with white
silk
on each
stiff
in Phila-
stays,
side, so that
hoops
a
full-
High-heeled shoes of black
or thread stockings, and in the miry times of
winter they wore clogs, galoshes, or pattens (Figures 189 and 190).
"Ladies often had

in
getting
their hair tortured for four
the proper crisped
curls
hours at a
of a hair curler.
* History of Lynn, Mass., by Lewis
and Newhall.
sitting,
Some who
2 i8
designed to be inimitably captivating, not knowing they could be sure

of professional services, where so
many
hours were occupied upon
one gay head, have actually had the operation performed the day
before
it
was
required, then have slept
all
night in a sitting posture to
prevent the derangement of their frizzles and curls.

fact,
and we could,
if
questioned,
name
cases.
Plan of White Satin Dress shown in Figures 218 and 230.
rare occurrences, proceeding
were several to
serve,
This
They were
is
a real
of course
Reign of George
III.
from some extra occasions, when there
and but few such
refined hair dressers in the
place.
"This formidable head work was succeeded by

the hair
was combed from the forehead.
seded by cushions and
artificial
rollers
over which
These again were super-
curled work, which could be sent out
Digitized
by
Google

to the barber's block like a
home
to
wig
to
pursue other objects, thus producing a grand reformation
Figure
216.
Beaver Hat and Short Cloak, Middle of Eighteenth Century.
in the
vile.
221
be dressed, leaving the lady at
economy
of
Reigns of George II and III.
time and an exemption from former durance
222
"When
the ladies
first
began
cumbrous hoops,
to lay off their
they supplied their place with successive succedaneums, such as these,

to wit:
First
came bishops a thing
hair; then succeeded a smaller affair
padded with horse
also
How
hair.
it
template the lovely sex as bearing a
under
their
abates our admiration to conof horse hair or a cut of cork
roll
Next they supplied
garments!
padded with horse
stuffed or
under the name of Cue de Paris,
their place with silk or
calimanco, or russell thickly quilted and inlaid with wool,
petticoats.
and
No
at a time
made
into
were supplanted by a substitute of half a dozen
petticoats; then these
wonder such
when
ladies needed fans in a sultry
unknown,
parasols were
to
keep
summer,
off the solar
rays!"
Other
articles of
a 'skimmer hat'
was
of a fabric
flats.
Another
which shone
hat, not unlike
it
horse hair woven in flowers, and called
in shape,
'
enduring hat for long service."

called a "bath bonnet," date
lie in
bras" and observes that
"it
woven
for children's
wear as an
it
of black satin,
and
could be sat upon like a chapeau
would be a good
article for travelling
This and the "musk melon bonnet," evidently a modifica-
ladies!"
tion of the calash, used before the Revolution,
bone
of
it
Leg-
Watson had himself seen what was
unknown, "made
folds that
was made
late
horse hair bonnets,' an article
which might again be usefully introduced
so constructed to
they wore
like silver tinsel;
crown and big brim, not unlike the
of a very small flat
horn
"Once
female wear are mentioned:
made
stiffeners in the
crown,
set
presenting ridges to the eye, between the bones.
was made
in the
had numerous whale-
an inch apart
in parallel lines
The
and
" pumpkin hood "
same manner with wadding between the
ridges for
cold weather.
"A
'calash bonnet,'" according to
of green silk;
rooms
could
it
to keep
it
it
Watson, "was usually formed
was worn abroad covering the head, but when
fall
back
over the head
in folds like the springs of

it
in
a calash or gigtop;
was drawn up by a cord always held
in the
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hand
When the calash was at the
of the wearer."
however,
it
appeared
in
many
height of popularity,
varieties of material
and
colour.
have seen mention of a pink dimity calash and of a flowered Persian
worn over high heads, without disturbing the

and brown calashes may be seen
in
erection,
Museums
in the
and blue
in Philadelphia.
"The wagon bonnet, always of black silk, was an article exclusively

among the Friends. When on the head it was thought to look
use
not unlike the top of the Jersey wagons, having a pendent piece of
the silk hanging
from the bonnet and covering the shoulders.
The
only straw worn was that called the 'straw bee-hive bonnet,' worn
by old people."
generally
be seen in the
the calash
Museum
of
and the pumpkin hood
to the
by Mr. Watson, but the exact date of the

Mrs. Gummere,
ject,
in
may
wagon bonnet mentioned
latter is
hard to determine.
a very brilliant book on a very sombre sub-
published recently* says: "It has been with the Quaker bonnet
as with every other garment the

originated in that centre of
taste,
specimens of bonnets
Interesting
Memorial Hall, Philadelphia, ranging from
all
Quaker has ever worn

Quakerism
lay simply in the
Paris, while the expression of
Quaker
dress."
cut
and the abode of
absence of any superfluous adornments.

secret of
the
ideas of fashion,
In
this
Doubtless the author
one idea
is
right,
lies
but
the
who
can look upon even a picture of a Quaker bonnet without sighing

for the superfluous
Although no
adornments?
laws had been passed by the Quakers forbid-
rigid
ding the use of gay colours, members of the sect were recommended
to abstain
from them, and
soft grays, dull drabs, sage greens,
sombre browns were so generally worn by Friends
We
and
that they were
many
instances of
the careful pains even the strictest of Friends took to
match these
thenceforth associated with them.
solemn colours.
lady in a
gown
Figure 250
is
read in
the portrait of a beautiful
of sage silk.
*
The Quaker,
a Study in Costume.
Quaker
226
"The Quaker
finest
and
coloured
costliest
silks,
simplicity of garb
was but another name
for the
raiment that could be produced, the richest sombre
A modest
the most delicate lawn, the finest broadcloth.
splendour which cost more thought and care than the ordinary habili
ments which were denounced by the
sect as
pomps and
of sheer cambric in caps, handkerchiefs,
and aprons gave
Quaker maids and matrons a dainty
of the
vanities of
But the use
the world," says that gentle historian, Mrs. Oliphant.
to the dress
air of unpretentious re-
finement for which they have ever been distinguished.
The cape
bric.
is
in
Figure 232
is
The cap
cambric sewed with the invisible stitches of early
of finest linen
days and worn by that distinguished colonial
Deborah Norris Logan,

combination
cam-
of pale gray silk lined with white
taken from an original garment of about 1775.
It is
may
dame
of Pennsylvania,
The
at the close of the eighteenth century.
at first
seem an anachronism, but
in point of fact
the Society of Friends followed with reluctant footsteps the changes

of fashion,
worn
and while caps
of the style of Figure 232
at the close of the century
and even
later,
were probably
the cape
shape worn by Quaker dames as early as 1775 and as
delightful instance of departure
especial occasion
is
thus told by Mrs.
is
of
late as 1800.
from Quaker costume on an
Gummere:*
"A Quaker Wedding.

"In the month
Jersey, married
in that city.
of
May,
His wedding dress was a coat of peach blossom
the great skirts of which
out with quilted white
He wore
material.
pumps.
"The
1771, Isaac Collins of Burlington,
New
Rachel Budd, of Philadelphia, at the 'Bank Meeting'
had outside pockets.
silk.
The
It
was
large waistcoat
.
cloth,
lined through-
was
of the
same
small clothes, knee buckles, silk stockings, and
cocked hat surmounted the whole.
bride,
who
is
described as 'lovely in
The Quaker,
a Study in Costume.
mind and
person,'
"""Sigrtizudby
Google

wore a
high
not
heels,
229
blue brocade, shoes of the same material, with very
light
larger
than a gold dollar, and

sharply
pointed
photograph of the
inal
the
at
In Figure 263 a
toes."
orig-
shoes worn on that
occasion
"Her
given.
is
was
dress
in the fashion
of the day, consisting of
a robe, long in the back,
with
a large hoop.
short
blue
bodice, with
a white satin stomacher
embroidered
in colours,
had a blue cord

from side
head
her
to
she
silk,
On
wore a
mode hood
black
with white
laced
side.
lined
the large
cape extending over the

shoulders.
Upon
her re-
turn from meeting after

the ceremony, she put on
a thin
apron of
white
ample dimensions,
front
tied in
with a large blue
bow."
Cloaks
wear
for
were
some changes
outdoor
used
Lady
in
FlGURE 223.
Capuchin with Fur Trimmings and Muff,
Reign of George III.
1780.
with
of form, under the successive
names
of
"pompadovrs,"
"Roquelaures," "cardinals," and "capuchins," throughout the e'ght-
a 3o
"Umbrellas to keep
eenth century.
at
the
off
time, but a few people used
this
and were
present
the
of
size
which were
They were
parasols.
known
the rain were not
quitasols,
about
muslin,
oiled
of
They must, however, have been but
of various colours.
never appear in any advertisements," according to Mr.
rare, as they
Watson, who
also responsible for the following statement:
is
"In those days dress was discriminative and appropriate, both

as regards the
season and
character
the
never wore the same dress at work as on
went out
in the
morning
were reserved for evening wear or for dinner

negligees, as they
often
worn
home
they sat at
and brocades,
in chintz,
Ladies
the wearer.
of
visits;
satins
or
and mantuas
Robes or
parties.
were called (Figures 192, 204, and 207), were

Muslin gowns were not worn
in full dress.
During the reign
of
George
their hair high again.
women
III,
In 1775,
was worn absurdly
it
at all."
began
of fashion
to
wear
high, rolled
over a framework of wire and surmounted by a large cap, turban,

or hat with
in the
tall
to its popularity.
was never
many
was always one
Virginia
Diary of Philip Fithian,
"A
home
last night
They
tell
Mrs. Duer and Mrs.
extreme of fashion.
In the
of the gayest of the Colonies.
this description of festivities in
18.
from the
1774
is
given:
Mrs. Carter and the young ladies came

ball,
and brought with them Mrs. Lane.
us there were upward of seventy at the
that the
company was
from Dumfries, and
genteel;
his son Harry,
Mrs. Carter made
one indeed, that to-day
She added
of
this
Virginia Ball and Virginia Belles (1774).
"Tuesday, January
also there.
quite as exaggerated
ancestral portraits testify
For instance, the portraits
"The Republican Court" show
Izard in
ladies;
this fashion
feathers;
Colonies as in England, but
this
ball;
who was
with
me
at college,
an argument, and
it
must dress and go with her
also that she desired
forty-one
and that Colonel Harry Lee,
my company
in the
were
was a strong
to the ball.
evening
when
"Figure 224. Portrait of Mr. and Mrs. Ralph Izard of the Carolina Colony.
(By Copley, 1774.)
Figure 225. Portrait
of the
West
family.
(By Benjamin West, 1799.)

she should
I
come home,
as
it
would be
late.
233
After considering a while,
consented to go, and was dressed.
"We
young
away from Mr.
set
ladies
Mrs. Carter and the
Carter's at two.
in the chariot,
Mrs. Lane
in
had handed the
ladies out I
was
went
a chair, and myself
on horseback.
"As soon
Smith.
men were
as I
was introduced
into a small
playing cards (the
Figure
first
saluted by Parson
room where a number
game
have seen since
Figure
226.
of gentle-
I left
home)
227.
Calashes, 1765.
to lay off
my
boots, riding-coat, &c.
dining-room to see young Mr. Lee.
"With them
conversed
till
Next
He
dinner, which
four.
The
When
they rose, each nimblest fellow dined
ladies dined
first,
be kept for so long a time.
of wine, good
"About
directed into the
me
came
to his father.
in at half after
when
first.
The
preserved.
dinner was
so great an assembly were
For drink, there were several
lemon punch, toddy,
seven, the ladies
was
when some good order was
as elegant as could be well expected

to
introduced
cider, porter,
and gentlemen began
sorts
&c.
to
dance
in the

ball-room, first, minuets, one round;
and
They
country-dances.
last of all,
second, jigs;
third,
The music was a French-horn and two violins.

"The ladies were dressed gay and splendid, and when
and brocades rustled and
their silks
reels;
struck up marches occasionally.
dancing,
behind them."
trailed
minuet, from the French menuet, so called from the small
The
steps taken in it, was invented in France
about the middle of the
seventeenth century, and throughout the eighteenth century was the

favourite dance of all ceremonious occasions in the Colonies as well
as in Europe.
The same
diary also contains valuable items of contemporary
costume and allusions
young
setting off of the
He came
and Miss
Washington
is
is
To-day
in
Mr. Christian's* dance takes place

Miss Jenny Washington came
Hale while we were
neat in her dress, of an agreeable
yet
when spoken
She
is
size,
Miss
breakfast.
at
She has not a handsome
about seventeen.
an easy winning manner.

tion,
essential to the proper
vogue.
before breakfast.
Priscilla
deportment taught to the
and absolutely
costumes then
"Friday, June 24.

here.
also,
to the fashionable
ladies of the Colonies
face, but
well proportioned,
and has
not forward to begin a conversa-
to she is extremely affable, without
assum-
ing any girlish affectation, or pretending to be overcharged with wit.
She has but

yet she
any
flirts
dress
lately
had an opportunity
for instruction in
dancing
moves with propriety when she dances a minuet, and without
is
or capers
rich
when she dances
a reel or country-dance.
and well-chosen, but not tawdry, nor
yet too plain.
Her
She
appears to-day in a chintz cotton gown with an elegant blue stamp,
a sky-blue
is
silk quilt
a light brown,
it
(Figure 213), and
spotted
was craped up, with two
on the top was a small cap of beautiful gauze and

artificial
flower interwoven.
Mr.
Christian
apron.
rolls at
Her person and
each
Her
hair
side,
and
rich lace, with
an
carriage at a small
was evidently a dancing master.
Digitized
by
Google

distance resemble not a
my much
little
237
respected Laura.
But on
close examination her features are something masculine, while those

of
Laura are mild and
me
I
Mr. Christian very
delicate.
open the dance by stepping a minuet with
to
excused myself by assuring him that
Miss Hale
is
about fourteen, and
politely requested
this
a slim and silent
is
amiable
girl.
never was taught to dance.
She has
girl.
black eyes and black hair and a good
eyebrows, which are esteemed in
set of
She looks
Virginia essential to beauty.
human
innocent of every
failing,
does
not speak five words in a week, and I
dare say from her carriage that
modesty
She
perfect.
is
is
her
dressed in
a white Holland gown, cotton, quilted

very
a lawn apron, has her hair
fine,
craped up, and on

ribbon
a cap.
for
it
a small tuft of
She
initiated into the school,
bles yet.
rose
my
accept
chair.
'Sir,
but just
saw her standing.
immediately and
kindly,
all I
Once
is
and only hob-
begged
She answered most
thank you.'
That was
could extract from this wonder of
the sex for the two days she staid,

I
her to
seemed
to
have an equal share
favours of her conversation.
and
in the
So that
Figure
in
232.
Quaker Cape and Cap,
1780.
describing the mental faculties of Miss
Hale,
it is
sufficient to say that I think she is far
of the foibles of
women.
chariot with five
In England,
Some
time after these,
removed from most
came Colonel Lee's
young misses."
in the first half of the
custom of the noble patrons of the
eighteenth century,
different
theatrical
it
was the
companies
238
to
As
bestow their cast-off suits upon their favourite actors.
was
distinction
national
utterly disregarded in dramatic productions of the
day, and histories of costume were unknown, the heroes and heroines
of classic lore, as well as of Shakespeare, were dressed in the fashion-
We
able garb of the passing hour.
hear of even Garrick appearing
as Othello in a regimental suit of George II's body-guard, with a
same
flowering Ramilie wig;
and
dressed in a
gold-laced scarlet, a small cocked hat, and
full suit of
of
Barry
in the
role (in 1765)
silk stockings.
More
in
striking
still
must have been the Othello of James Quin
a large powdered major wig and a blackened face.
Macbeth
a hoop eight yards
in
in circumference,
was the costume Mrs. Yates assumed

Barton Booth, an actor of note
Fancy Lady
which, as
we
read,
in the part.
in the early part of the century,
took pains to encase the soles of his shoes in
felt
when
acting the
ghost in Hamlet, but Pope records of his impersonation of Addison's
Cato
in 1712:
" Booth enters, hark the universal peal!
But has he spoken? not a syllable.

the stage and made the people stare?
What shook
Cato's long wig, flowr'd
Mrs. Cibber as
Juliet, in
gown and
lacquer'd chair."
a white satin gown with an enormous
hoop, does not seem to have been thought unseemly attired.
Even John Kemble, the author

effects,
appeared as Hamlet
velvet with
breast,
deep
ruffles,
in
of
many
reformations in stage
a modern court dress of rich black
with the pendent riband of an order on his
and mourning sword and buckles;
his hair
was powdered
and, in the scenes of feigned distraction, flowed dishevelled in front
over his shoulders.*
The
first
theatre in
was inaugurated by
management
of
America was
the
at Williamsburg, Virginia,
London Company
Mr. Lewis Hallam
in
of
1752.
which
Comedians under the
The
* Annals of the English Stage, by Dr. Doran.
play was
"The
Figure
Reticule
233.
Figure
made
of the court
234.
Gloves
made
Carroll of Car-
of soft doeskin, embroidered with flowers in colour.
Worn by Mrs. Wentworth,

Figure
Figure
Figure
gown worn by Mrs.
Maryland.
rollton,
of
New
Hampshire, about 1717.
and paste buckles, about 1770.

Bead
236. A bonnet of muslin made over reeds, worn about
237. Crfipe shawl with flowers printed n colour,
reticule
235.
late
1780.
eighteenth cen-
tury.
Figure
238.
Linen
pocket embroidered
in
colour,
worn by Mrs. Wodkind
of
Massachusetts (1752). (From the original in the Essex Museum, Salem.)

Figure 239. Paste shoe buckles worn by Elisha Lawrence, Esq., of Chestnut
Grove,
New
Jersey, in 1720.
Edward Pennington
Silver
spoons and
of Philadelphia, in 1754.
the Pennington coat-of-arms engraved on the
snuff-box
Comle)
Figure 240.
is
is
also of
conch-shell.
engraved on the
Slipper of
lid
steel
chatelaine
owned by Mrs.
Snuff-box of conch-shell with
and the date 1777.
The monogram
The
lady's
E. L. C. (Elizabeth
Le
silver cover.
green and white striped
Appleton, of Ipswich, Massachusetts, in 1758.
Figure 241. Fan painted by Gamble,
1771.
taffeta,
worn by Mrs. Samuel

Merchant
dressed in a ruffled
unfortunate Signor Antonio probably
knee buckles, long coat, and buttoned waist-
shirt,
a powdered wig, after the manner of Mr. Clarke at the
coat, with
Haymarket Theatre
wicked knife
in
imitation
of
in
The
of Venice."
London; while Shylock stood whetting
in
Macklin,
who was
delighting
English
with his representation of the part about that time.
came
1773)
"The poor Doctor
upon us
to wait
up
in the
of fops in
in,
Macaronia
dandy
for a
audiences
Opera
glasses
into use early in this century (eighteenth).
Miss Sarah Eves, of Philadelphia, remarks

5>
his
a very long-tailed coat and a falling band of linen,
her journal (January
in
thought his clothes were not good enough
therefore he delays his visit until he gets fitted
This was the popular name
taste I suppose."
Miss Eves wrote, the Macaronis being a
at the time
London who introduced a
class
particular style of dress in 1772.
The name originated in the following manner. A number of young

men of fashion who had visited Italy formed an association called
"The Macaroni Club," in contradistinction to the "Beefsteak Club"
of
London.
As
the fashion of this time
and coats with wide and heavy

short,
skirts,
and the whole dress of very
was
to
wear long waistcoats
they wore theirs exceedingly

close
cut.
Their wigs were
remarkable for an enormous club, or turned-up bunch of hair be-
They had
hind.
cocked
little
hats,
swords dangling about their
heels at the end of long straps, and sticks with large tassels.
Their
stockings were covered with coloured spots and their dress generally
piebald in the same manner.
In 1773 an alteration took place in their dress, consisting chiefly

in elevating the hair to
on each
side of
breast.
They
it,
and
attracted
an enormous height, with large curls ranging

in
wearing immense bunches of flowers at the
much
attention during the few years of their
existence*
* Fairholt's English Dress.
IX

"Ye belles and
Come listen
beaus of London town,
my
to
ditty;
The muse, in prancing up and down,

Has found out something pretty.
With
hat,
little
And whip
If
and hair dress'd high,
to ride
you but take a
a pony,
right survey,
Denotes a Macaroni.
" Five pounds of hair they wear behind
The
O!
ladies to delight,
Their senses give unto the wind,
To make
Thus
themselves a fright, O!
fashion
I think
For he's a
Who
is
who does
e'er
pursue
a simple tony,
fool,
say what you
This ballad was popular
in the streets of
and was probably sung by the English
London
at this time,
soldiers in the Colonies.
suggests a close connection with the national
which so many writers have attempted

settling the
will,
a Macaroni."
air,
It
"Yankee Doodle,"
to explain without, however,
vexed question.
"Yankee Doodle came
to
town
Riding on a pony
With a feather in his hat,

Upon a Macaroni"
can be traced to the time of Charles
pen
I,
of a cavalier poet in derision of
and has been ascribed

Cromwell.
But
to the
this version
does not seem any more palpable than other explanations, and
feather in his hat"
is
According to the Century Dictionary,

applied in the Colonies to a Maryland
guished for
its
The Lydia
it is
said to
company
have been
"
jig,
sung
Lucy Locket
to the
lost
same
her pocket
Lydia Fisher found
Not a bit of money in

Only broidery round
it,
it
it."
first
of militia distin-
showy uniform.
Fisher
"a
not suggestive of Cromwell.
tune, runs:
We
give
made by a
empty as
colonial lady,
that of
original
is
which would be well worth finding even as
Lucy Locket (Figure
worn outside the
to be
The
a picture of a beautifully embroidered linen pocket,
in the
This pocket was intended
238).
needlework proclaims.
dress, as the careful
Essex Institute at Salem, Massachusetts.
was worked and worn by Mrs. Samuel Wodkind about

similar pocket
made
of printed cotton
is in
the
1750.
Museum
of
It
Mem-
orial Hall, Philadelphia.
According to Fairholt, the Macaroni

the rage with the town (London).
was a
Even the
Macaroni.
la
clothes
cut,
"their delivery
windows were
style of
costume was quite
Everything that was fashionable
clergy
had
refined,"
their wigs
combed,
a la Macaroni.
their
The shop
with caricatures and other prints of this tribe;
filled
there were portraits of
"Turf Macaronis," "Parade Macaronis,"
"Macaroni Parsons," "Macaroni Scholars," and a

species of this extended genus.
Ladies
set
up
variety of other
for female Macaronis.

it
was
of flowers,
and
an exceedingly wide and spreading sleeve hanging with deep
ruf-
Their costume was scarcely so distinctive as that of the men;

chiefly
known by
the high head-dress, large
bunch
from the elbow.
fles
"No
ringlets
now adorn
Dear Nature
lofty
the face,
yields to art,
head-dress must take place,
Abroad
in ev'ry part.
Patch, paint, perfume, immodest stare,
You
find
is
all
the fashion.
Alas, I'm sorry for the fair,
Who
I
thus disgrace the nation."*
have not met with a single notice of a female Macaroni
in the
Colonies.
The
English country people of the eighteenth century were rather
picturesque in costume.
When
dressed for church or a country
* Fairholt's Satirical
Poems on Costume.
fair,

the
young women wore flowered chintzes with muslin kerchiefs and
The
aprons.
short skirts
and the
stockings,
usually of a
in
pattern,
muslin caps they wore under their hats were extremely
and becoming.
pretty
On
of
little
showed clocked
Their shoes were strong but not clumsy
bright colour.
these occasions the
men wore
breeches to the knees, coats
homespun, waistcoats usually of some contrasting colour, buckled
shoes,
and cocked
When
hats.
damsels generally wore short skirts of a coarse
at work, the
woolen material
round the waist over short sacques of
tied
with kerchiefs about the neck.
The men wore
calico,
(Figures 247 and 259.)
knit jerkins or blouses of coarse linen, such as
oznaburg or dowlas, leather boots pulled up over coarse woolen

breeches, and Monmouth caps.
Homespun linsey-woolsey was
much in use for both sexes.
The domestics of a household were always clothed by their masters.
A letter of Mistress Hannah Penn, written in 1700, requests
that "ten yards of frieze for servants
and some four or
six skirts"
be sent by barge from Philadelphia to Pennsbury, where she was

preparing for her husband's return.
The
what Washington ordered from England

Vernon
following items
tell
for the servants at
in 1759:
8 doz. pairs of plaid hose sorted,
"
Monmouth
caps,
25 yds. broadcloth to cost about 7s. 6d.

"
coarse double thick broadcloth,
15
6 "
scarlet broadcloth,
30
"
red shalloon,
12 doz. white
20
40
"
washed waistcoat buttons,
"
"
coat
yds. coarse jean or fustian for
summer
frocks for negro servants,
i doz. pairs strong coarse thread hose fit for negro servants,
"
1
pairs coarse shoes and knee buckles,
1
postillion cap,
6 castor beavers.
us
Mt.

The
worn
by
The
servants
was
faced
with
following notices from newspapers of 1740 to 1772,
show
livery
white, the colours of the
his
of
scarlet
Washington coat-of-arms.
the usual dress of servants and slaves in the Colonies:

*
Now
in the
Thomas Smith, Sheriff of Cape County,

who goes by the name Jupiter Hazard, is
custody of
a run-away negro man,
about twenty-seven years of age, but very black, of a middle
and well
built.
Had on when
taken up, a flannel
shirt, leather
size
breeches
with a fob in the waistband, shoes and stockings, both very good,
the stockings of a blue colour, bathmetal buckles, a good
felt
hat
and worsted cap. He speaks English like a country born negro

who has lived some time among the Dutch.
"He had a bundle with him which contained two white shirts,
a dimity jacket and breeches, a white handkerchief, a linen cap, a
pocket-book with four dollars in it, and a pair of silver knee buckles
marked N. S."
"Ran away on
an
Irish sen-ant
fellow,
the 20th from Nathan Watson, of Mount Holly,

man, named Christopher Cooney, a short well-set
about twenty-six years of age, of a pale complexion, short
brown curled
hair,
had lost one of his under fore teeth, and has had
and walks with his toe turned outward. Had
his right leg broke,
on when he went away, a new castor hat, a red great coat, a lightcoloured fustian coat and jacket, new copper coloured broadcloth
breeches, lined with leather, new black and white yarn stockings,
old shoes, newly soled.
He was some time past a hostler at Jonathan
Thomas's, in Burlington. Whoever takes up and secures said servant, so that his master may have him again, shall have forty shillings reward,
and reasonable charges, paid by
Nathan Watson."
From
the "Pennsylvania Gazette,"
"Ran away from
1773:
the subscriber, an English servant girl
named
Christina Ball, but calls herself Caty for shortness, about twenty
years of age, brown skinned, black eyes, and hair lately cut short,
little
stoop-shouldered.
Her
cloathes are very ordinary, a
brown
246
and a striped calico short gown;

Whosoever takes her up, and confines her in any gaol
cloth petticoat, other coarse shifts
any other cloathes uncertain.
twenty miles
within
this city shall
shillings
three
at
reward,
pounds
of
have twenty
and
taken up
if
any distance
further,
paid by
Henry Neill."
The
advertisements
newspapers
in the early
America are a valua-
in
ble
contribution
of
history
will give
to
the
costume.
a few from the
leading papers of different parts of the Colonies

early
in
the
eighteenth
century.
Among
we
quaint
find
Thomas
one
this
the Hatt
"A
Figure
&
round
silk lace
ditto,
Row,
in
assortment
Boston.
(End
Mohair Lupings,
and Frogs
at
fresh
ble
for
for
Silk
Braid
Beaand Felt
Beaver,
verett, Castor,
Tabby
him
Beaver, Mer-
of Linen Linings, suita-
242.
Typical Dress of English Country Girl, 1780,

of the Eighteenth Century.)
Hatts,
of
Peck's, advertis-
ing goods sold by
chant's
and
advertisements,
curious
ditto,
flatt
and
Button Lupes, plain and sash Bands,

workt and plain Buttons, black Thread, Gold and Silver Chain,
yellow and white Buttons, hard and light Brushes, Velurcs, Cards,
and
large
small
Looping
bowstrings,
Coperas, a good assortment of

ditto.
He
From
"New York
Goats Hair put
advertisements
Gazette" of
S. E.,
tell
betelles,
it
was
and
to
a,
1737,
"Buckle" meant "to

rolled
we
learn of a
on papers
curl,"
deribands,
tapsiels,
that
New
and a
Other
for curling.
of the dress-stuffs of the time with the weird
over the shop counters in colonial
names
were familiar enough
York.
another curious old advertisement:
is
"May
May
one brown Natural Wig, one old wig
in buckle."
wig was "in buckle" when
Here
and
Hatts, Castor
"one gray Hair wig, one Horse Hair Wig, not worn
marked V.
five times,
chilloes,
Verdigrees
felt
likewise sells logwood."
the
thief's stealing
of
Needles,
mens and boys
Imported by John and Thomas Stevenson
1761.
11,
be sold at their shop at the Sign
0} the Stays, opposite the
South Side of the Town-House, Boston, at the very lowest
"Lawns
prices, Viz.
and Flowr'd kenting Handkerchiefs,

cotton and linen ditto; silk and gauze ditto; Cambricks, Calicoes
and printed Linens white and coloured Threads; silk, worsted, cotton and thread stockings, Women's silk and worsted Mitts BroadCloths; German Serge Thicksets; Fustians, Jeans, Pillows and
Dimities Broglios, Dorsateens, Venetian Poplins, flowr'd and plain
Damasks, Prussianets, Serpentines, Tammies, strip'd stuff, Camblets,
Callimancoes, Shalloons and Buckrams Worsted Caps, Garters,
Nsedles and Pins white brown and strip'd Hollands white and
checked Linnen Diaper, Bed-Ticks, Tartans, Plaids Breeches and
of
all sorts,
Strip'd
Jackets
Stocking Patterns, Cotton
and
silk
gowns, Stock Tapes,
Leither Breeches, Mens' and Women's Leather Shoes, &c, &c."
The
following
is
also of interest:
"Just imported from London, and to be sold by
"At
B&it
his
Brilliant
"Daniel Boyer, Jeweller,

Shop opposite the Governor's
in
Boston.
and Cypher Earing and Button Stones,
Binding
248
Wire, Brass and Iron ditto, Brilliant and cypher ring stones, Brass
stamps, Garnets, Amethysts, and topaz.
Ring and buckle sparks, Money
&
Cyphers, Small sheers
dividers,
&
Buckle and ring brushes,

and weights, Locket stones
Ruby and white foyle, Screw
scales
Plyers,
Coral beads, Blow pipes, Coral for Whistles, Shoe and
Draw
knee
Chapes,
files,
Crucibles and
plates,
Moulding sand, Rough and smooth

Borax and Salt-Petre, Pommice
plack pots,
and Rotten-stone, &c.
Where
also
may be
had, some sorts of Jewellers and Goldsmith work,
cheap for cash."
That Paul Revere was
at
one time a
dentist,
we
learn from the
following startling advertisement in the "Boston Gazette,"
December
19, 1768:
"Whereas many Persons are
so unfortunate as to lose their Fore-
Teeth by Accident, and otherways,
to their great Detriment,
only in looks, but speaking both in Public and Private
inform
such that they
all
may have them
This
replaced with
not
is
to
artificial
and answers the end of speakby Paul Revere, Goldsmith, near the head of Dr.
ones, that looks as well as the Natural,
ing to
all
Intents,
Clarke's Wharf,
"All Persons
Boston.
who have had
false teeth fixt
by Mr. John Baker,
Surgeon-Dentist, and they have got loose (as they will in time)
may
have them fastened by the above who learnt the Method of fixing
them from Mr. Baker."

Here
is
an invoice of goods imported
in
1771
Neptune (Capt. Binney) and to be sold by

Daniel Parker, Goldsmith, At his Shop near the Golden-Ball, Boston,
"An Assortment of Articles in the Goldsmith's and Jewellers
Way, viz. brilliant and cypher'd Button and Earing Stones of all
Sorts, Locket Stones, cypher'd Ring Stones, Brilliant Ring Sparks,
Buckle Stones, Garnetts, Amethysts, Topaz, and Sapphire Ring
Stones, neat Stone Rings sett in Gold, some with Diamond Sparks,
Stone Buttons in Silver, by the Card, black ditto in Silver, best Sword
Blades, Shoe and Knee Chapes of all sizes."
"Imported
in
the

Another invoice by the same ship contains the following
"Broad
Cloths,
German
Half Thick, red Shagg, 8
Serges,
qr. Blankets,
list:
Beaver
Bearskins,
Shalloons,
Coating,
Tammies, Dur-
Calimancoes, worsted Damasks, strip'd and plain Camblets,
ants,
strip'd
Swanskins, Flannell, Manchester Velvet,
Women's
ditto,
Bom-
Dimothy, Crimson and green China, Cotton Check, worsted and Hair Plush, Men's
and Women's Hose, worsted caps, milPd ditto, black Tiffany,
Allopeen,
bazeen,
Women's and
colour'd
Children's
Duffels,
Stays,
Hungarians,
cotton
Romalls,
printed
Linnen
Handkerchiefs, black Gauze ditto, Bandanoes, Silk Lungee

alls,
Rom-
Cambricks, Lawns, Muslins, Callicoes, Chintz, Buckrams, Gu-
and Tandem Holland, Men's and Women's Kid and Lamb

Bone Lace, Capuchin Silk and Fringe, Gartering, Silk and Cotton Laces, strip' t Ginghams, Yellow Canvas,
Diaper, Damask Table Cloths and Napkins, Bedtick, Garlix, Solelick Irish
Gloves, black and white
tare
necklaces
and Earings, Tapes, Women's Russel Shoes, sew-
ing Silk, Looking Glasses, Ticklenburg, English and Russia Duck,
Xnglish and India Taffety, Grograms, English and India Damask,

Padusoys, Lutestrings, black and white Satin, Rich Brocade, Gauze
Caps and
Of
Ruffles,
interest,
Shades and handsome Silk Cloakes, &c, &c, &c."
too, is this
advertisement from the "Pennsylvania
Gazette," 1773:
"John Marie
"Taylor from Paris.
Humbly acquaints the Gentry and Public that he has taken a house
in Gray's Alley, between Walnut and Chestnut Streets, the fourth
door from Second Street, and has provided good workmen. He
has had the pleasure of pleasing some of the most respectable gentlemen in London, and hopes by the strictest attention and most particular punctuality to give general satisfaction.
"N. B.
all
At said Maries', gentlemen's cloaths of
spots taken out, and
made
all
colours cleaned,
equal to new, without the tedious and
disadvantageous method of ripping or washing them."
The
following notice
is
rather amusing:
250
"William Lang,
"Wig-Maker and Hair Dresser,
Hereby informs the Public, that he has hired a Person from Europe,
by whose assistance he is now enabled, in the several Branches of
his Business, to serve his good customers, and all others, in the most
genteel and polite Tastes that are at present in Fashion in England
and America. In particular, Wigs made in any Mode whatever,
may
such as
grace and become the most important Heads, whether
those of Judges,
Lawyers, or Physicians, together with
Divines,
those of an inferior Kind, so as exactly to suit their Respective
all
Occupations and Inclinations.
Hair-dressing, for Ladies and Gen-
tlemen, performed in the most elegant and newest Taste

in
a particular Manner, shall be attended
teel
their
to, in
Ladies
the nice, easy, gen-
and polite Construction of Rolls, such as may tend to raise

Heads to any Pitch they may desire, also French Curls, made
Manner. He gives Cash for Hair."
in the neatest
In the
Museum
braids once
The
Memorial
at
Hall, Philadelphia, are
worn under nets by women
some
jute
of the Colonies.
following notices from various newspapers in different parts
of the Colonies, appearing at the
that the people of that
dawn
of the Revolution, prove
day were not wholly given up
to the vanities
England paper about 1768,
is
of the world.
This, from a
New
the patriotic spirit of the
dames
a proof of
of colonial days:
"In a large circle of very agreeable ladies in this Town, it was

unanimously agreed to lay aside the Use of Ribbons, &c, &c,
&c. for which there has been so great a Resort to Milliners in times
past.
It
is
hoped that
this
of the Sex throughout the
pear in their native Beauty,

vailing
Motive of Love to
resolution will be followed
Province
How
stript of these
their
by others
agreeable they will ap-
Ornaments from the pre-
Country."
Another notice reads:
"We
must
after all
our Efforts, depend greatly upon the Female
Sex for the introduction of Economy among us;
and those who

have the Pleasure of an Acquaintance with them assure us that their
utmost Aid will not be wanting.
"So
strong
is
the Disposition of the Inhabitants of this
Town
Manufacturers that come from the Country Towns,
to take of the
Womens and Childrens Winter Apparel, that nothing

wanting but an Advertisement where they may be had in Town,
especially
is
which
will
gratis."
be taken
in,
and published by the printers
Mrs. Caulkins
Paper
"with the prospect of war with
us that
tells
Mother Country before them, many
the
of this
of the inhabitants of Boston
decided upon a non-importation system, and a non-consumption

of articles
on which heavy duties were
then, as
is
it
was the
It
laid.
at this day, in the Colonies as well as in
dress in black clothes
on mourning occasions.
It
practice
England, to
was decided
to dis-
continue such dresses, and the custom of wearing black on these

occasions
was
generally laid aside; the only sign
made
use of was
a piece of black crape about the hat, which was in use before, and
a piece of the same
"An
agreement
stuff
around the arm.
to this effect
was drawn up and very generally
signed by the inhabitants of the town, also
by some members
This would
Council and Representatives.
the
affect
of
the sale of
English goods, and none were to be purchased except at fixed prices.
At the same time another agreement was very extensively signed

to eat
no lamb
in the country,
flesh
during the year.
and consequently
to
This was
to increase the sheep
encourage the manufacture of
woolen goods, which were imported from England
in large quanti-
ties.
"The
practice of wearing expensive
very generally laid aside.
It
was
mourning dresses was soon
further proposed 'to give
no other
gloves than are of the manufacture of the country in lieu of white

ones, that are seldom
*
The days
drawn on a second
of the Spinning
Wheel
in
New
England.
time.'
It
was suggested
Extracts from Colonial Papers.
252
to the glovers that,
'it
might not be amiss
if
some peculiar mark
were put upon them, as a bow and arrow, or pine
Town came
tradesmen of the
leather for their
laures,
of
working
tree, instead of the
number
of the respectable
into a resolution to
wear nothing but
usual stitching on the back,' and a great
habits.
Instead of the rich cloth Roque-
even the magistrate and the colonel were satisfied with cloaks
brown camlet
the land
and the greatest lady
lined with green baize,
had her riding hood
also of camlet.
for
liberty
land,
sacrifices
in
the great struggle
gradually overshadowed
and the
summate
As
the
necessary to con-
the Revolution began to be ap-
preciated, a decided change took place in
regard
to
play.
Women
amusements, and
dress,
discarded
dis-
imported
all
ornaments, and arrayed themselves wholly

in domestic goods.
Fine wool and choice
flax
were
in higher estimation
and
laces,
and the hearts
as well
as
were given
ments.
the
laudations
beauty in
to
243.
silk
the
poet
homespun
gar-
of
Gentlemen also that had been
accustomed to appear
Figure
than
of the patriots
in
the
society in
example
daintiest costume, following the
Night-rail.
first
shining stocks, their cambric
and other
articles of
set
"The encouragement
all
mon
tea.
silk
foreign production,
shoestrings, checked handkerchiefs,
of
by the women, discarded
ruffles,
of
stockings, silver
and went back
and brown homespun
home manufactures and
imported luxuries were regarded as
their
buckles,
to leather
cloth.
the rejection
tests of patriotism.
Com-
discourse grew eloquent in praise of plain apparel and Labrador
The music
of
to that of the guitar
the spinning wheel
and harpsichord.
was pronounced superior
Homespun
parties were given
Figure
244.
A picture of a gown of mauve crepe, worn about 1795
Sartori, of
Figure
nie
245.
New
Mary Hodge,
Fawn-coloured
by
Madame
Jersey.
A VVatteau sacque, part of the wedding

silk,
of
outfit of
Mrs. William West,
Hope Lodge, White Marsh, Pennsylvania,
in
1752.
with flowers brocaded in colour.
Figure 246. Picture of a gown of white embroidered muslin, worn in 1790.

Figure 247 is a calico short sacque, made without seams on the shoulder, worn
in
Pennsylvania late in the eighteenth century.
Figure 248. A gown of buff glazed chintz, worn by Madame Chevalier, who
came to Philadelphia from Martinique about 1795.
Digitized
bf
Coogle

where nothing of foreign importation appeared
upon the
Even wedding
table.
patriotic principles."
Bunker
After the Battle of
olution
circles
who
now
were conducted upon
the colonists everywhere were
Hill,
much
attention to the fashions, only
Rev-
persisted in shutting their ears to the spirit of
the
rife in
and spreading
Colonies,
ever-widening
in
about them, continued to import the fashionable novelties
from England.
tion of
2 55
the dresses or
too seriously engaged to give

the Tories,
festivities
in
On
that July
morning
in
1776
Independence was read to an eager crowd
when
the Declara-
in the State
House
yard in Philadelphia, the colonial period of American history came

to
an end.
AFTER THE REVOLUTION

Philadelphia in the winter of 1777 was the scene of
The
much
of the situation,
amused themselves and
there with Sir William
Howe, by a
had "an appropriate closing"
Major Andre* and
the other
the desire to return
some
Andre* himself called
it
the British officers stationed
series of
in the
members
dances and routs which
famous Mischianza given by

of
Howe's
staff,
probably with
of the hospitality received, although
of this ball, preceded
The
ladies
here.
The costumes
were designed by Andre* as well as the
original
tickets
it
drawing made
splen-
by a regatta on the Delaware and the
absurd mock tournament, has been so often described that

necessary to dwell upon
Major
"the most splendid complimentary enter-
tainment ever given by an army to their Commander."
dour
The
gaiety.
Tories of the Colony, refusing even then to take a serious view
for the ladies'
for the occasion are in the
it
is
of the knights
not
and
tickets of admission.
costumes and one of the
possession of the Philadelphia
Library Company.
During the Revolutionary period
(1
776-1 783), and, in
* History of Norwich, Connecticut, by Frances Mainwaring Caulkins.
fact, for
256
the remaining years of the eighteenth century, patriotic Americans
who wished
from
to be very fashionable imported their finery direct
and French
Paris,
taste prevailed both in furniture
and
many
Depreciation of the currency was one of the
dress.
trials entailed
by the breach with England.

Speaking of the high prices during the Revolution, Mrs. Bache
"I have been ob-
(Sarah Franklin), in writing to her father, says:

liged to
pay
fifteen
mon calamanco
pounds and
petticoat without quilting, that I once could have
got for fifteen shillings.
wore out
my
(15 15s.) for a com-
fifteen shillings
silk
few months
buy nothing but what
ones before I got this."
"A
later she says:
I really
want, and
(Philadelphia,
1778.)
pair of gloves cost seven dol-
One yard of common gauze twenty-four dollars." *

The hoop skirt, which had held its own for so many years, went
lars.
out of fashion in 1778.
as
About
this
we do
not notice the extreme of this or, in fact, of any of the
French
time hair in Paris was worn extravagantly high, but
styles in the portraits of the
day
in this country,
seems more
it
than likely that they did not find favour in American eyes.
letter
from Miss Franks, one of the reigning
can society, describes a new thing in bonnets to her
a pattern of the newest bonnet; there
on wire and punched
is
shall go,
a rag baby
however, as
it
shall send
The
is
you
raised
lighter the
(Figure 236.)
"Nancy Van Horn and myself employed

in trying to dress
Ameri-
Mrs. Hamil-
no crown, but gauze
to a sugar loaf at the top.
trimming the more fashionable.
it
"I
neighbourhood of Philadelphia:
ton, living in the
belles in
sister,
in the fashion,
will in
yesterday
morning
but could not succeed;
some degree give you an opinion
on the subject.
"As
to the jacket
you say reaches
and the pinning
to the arms.
know
in of the handkerchief,
it,
but
it
yours
must be pinned up
* Letters to Benjamin Franklin from his Family and Friends.

and quite under the arms as you would
to the top of the shoulders
girl's
Vandyke (Figure
"The
fuller
it
handsomer
the
sets,
a handkerchief out
sets
259).
it
is
Nobody
thought.
always worn double and the longest that can be got;
round the
throat, as
or a brooch as the
it
is
Mrs. Penn always did, and made to
The
before like a man's shirt.
ever
and a gauze handkerchief
in the neck,
wear
ladies here always
is
pinned
out
set
either a pin
men do."*
Chintz gowns were the usual wear for mornings at home, even
when admiring
were about, for Sally Wister, writing
British officers
from the country home
of her father in 1778, says to
"I rose by or near seven, dress'd
Caps
the
were
still
by Mrs. Nathaniel Appleton
lotte that
result
were worn on
she
is
is
made
Quilted
all
and
occasions by
219).
pic-
given (Figure 202) which was worn
in Massachusetts,
memoirs and
of the English
coat," which
which
linen apron." f
of this period (Figures 200, 201, 202,
ture of one of a striking style
Many
Deborah Norris:
light chintz
very fashionable at this time.
of a great variety of shapes
women
my
Kenton handkerchief and
gown-fashion,
petticoats
in
letters
in 1784.
mention the "great-
came into use in 1786, and so pleased Queen Charcommanded Miss Burney to celebrate it in verse. The
was not remarkable as a poem, but
interesting as a note
popular costume.
"The
garb of state she inly scorn'd
Glad from its trappings to be free'd,

She saw thee humble, unadorn'd,
Quick of
attire,
"Still, then, thrice
Thy modest
child of speed.
honour 'd Robe! retain
guise, thy decent ease.
Nor let thy favour prove thy bane

By turning from its fostering breeze."
* Letter written from Long Island to Mrs. Hamilton of Woodlands near Philadelphia,
t Pennsylvania Magazine, vol.
vii.
on
258
As Miss Burney speaks
later of
coat as usual in the morning,"
gown
of the
the
same
gowns which Maria Dickinson mentions;
writ-
negligee, the ancestress of our tea
nature, too, were the
wearing a "white dimity great-
was probably another form
it
Of
(Figure 161).
ing of an evening spent at Fairhill, the country-seat of Isaac Norris
near Philadelphia, she says:
warm
"It was the custom to disrobe and put on one of the soft
gowns
of green baize provided for each guest," then follows a
ing description of innocent gossip over the
January
tract
letter is
dated
1787.
i,
Quaker
of cut
This
fire.
charm-
was
dress
at this time noticeable for
and sober colouring, although, as we
from a
lilac satin
letter,
see
was allowed on
uniform simplicity
by the following exoccasions.
"Phila. 23 Sept. 1783.
"We
made
reached the antiquated building on Front street ere they
their appearance,
and being seated very advantageously, we
The bridegroom
soon had the pleasure of seeing them enter.

lead coloured cloth, no
full suit of
him look
skirt
tolerably plain.
The
powder
bride
was
with a white satin cloak and bonnet.
in his hair,
in
It
enumerate the variety of dresses which made

occasion.
Suffice
especially neighbor
it
lilac
gown and
satin
would be needless
their figures
on
this
amusing
to
this
much in the smartness

who had procured an enormous large hat
to say that all looked
which made him the most conspicuous person present " (Figure
For
in a
which made
letter I
am
indebted to Miss
the author of the delightful biography of
220).
Anne H. Wharton,
Martha Washington, as
well as other well-known books on the colonial period.
There are very few
portraits of
ever, of old ladies in their
duced
in
Figures 250 and 252.
of Philadelphia,
Quakers
of this period
muslin caps and plain
silk
Mrs. Pennington,
two, how-
gowns are repro-
sister of the
Mayor
wears a dress of sage green under her kerchief. In
the original painting the colouring
is
very attractive.
The
othef

portrait
is
copied from an engraving, but there
The white
delicate face.
bow and
the dress
sheer cap
is
probably of gray
is
charm
great
is
(Figure 252).
silk
After the proclamation of peace with Great Britain, while
was Minister
in the
fastened with a white ribbon
wrote
to the English Court, his wife
full
Adams
accounts of
the prevailing styles there for the benefit of her gay friends in the
United States.
In 1786 she wrote:
"To amuse
you then,
my
dear niece,
was as great a
I will give
you an account
Comte d'Adhemar.
of the dress of the ladies at the ball of
variety of pretty dresses, borrowed wholly
and amongst the
as I have ever seen;
satin waists, spangled with silver,
There
from France,
some with sapphire-blue
rest,
and laced down the back and seams
white satin petticoats trimmed with black and
with silver stripes;
blue velvet ribbon; an odd kind of head-dress, which they term the
1
Helmet
I did not observe the bird of
of Minerva.'
nor do I
ever,
know whether
pretentions to
it.
dressed?'
it
If
'And
will
pray,'
gratify
wisdom, how-
who wore the dress had suitable

say you how were my aunt and cousin
you to know, you shall hear. Your
those
aunt, then, wore a full-dress court cap without the lappets, in which
was a wreath
of white flowers,
and blue
sheafs,
two black and blue
flat
feathers (which cost her half a guinea apiece, but that you need
not
tell of),
three pearl pins, bought for Court,
earrings, the cost of
ever.
petticoat
made
them no
matter what
of blue ribbon,
and brought
Vandyke
and a
old in Europe.
12
floss;
of pearl
full
style,
made up
was
aunt.'
That
leaves
in
fashion
diamonds; white
rib-
the trimming, which looks
dress handkerchief,
my
etc.,
wreaths of black
which are much
to such perfection as to resemble
also in the
very elegant;
crape flounce,
lace;
and trimmed with white
'Full gay, I think, for

is
and a pair
than diamonds, how-
sapphire blue demi-saison with a satin stripe, sack and
trimmed with a broad black
velvet ribbon spotted with steel beads,
bon
less
is
and a bouquet of
true,
roses.
Lucy, but nobody
seated next the Duchess of Bedford,
who
2 6o
had a scarlet satin sack and coat, with a cushion
full
and
is
but
seventy-six
Well now
neither.
your
of diamonds,
she had none,
for hair
cousin:
for
small
white leghorn hat, bound
with pink satin ribbon;
buckle and band
steel
which turned up
side,
at the
and confined a
large
pink bow; a large bow

of the
same kind
of rib-
bon behind; a wreath

full
of
blown roses round
the crown, and another

of buds
and roses within-
side the hat, which, be-
ing placed at the back

of the hair, brought the
roses to the
see
it
you
edge;
clearly;
one red
and black feather with

two
white
com-
ones,
pleted the head-dress.
gown and
coat of
beri gauze,
with a red
satin stripe over

Figure
249.
Riding Habit about 1785 (from a Contemporary

Print).
waist,
Chama pink
and coat flounced
with crape, trimmed with
broad
point
and
pink
ribbon; wreaths of roses across the coat, gauze sleeves and ruffles."
As costumes
similar to those described
by Mrs. Adams may be
Figure
250.
Mrs. Pennington, showing the dress of a Quakes
portrait of
lady, 1780.
Figure
251.
showing
portrait
collarette
of
and
Catharine
cuffs of
Schuyler
Van
embroidered muslin.
Rensselaer, about
(From the
179J,
original por-
trait.)
Figure
Figure
252.
A portrait of Mrs. Morris, showing the dress of a Quaker lady, 1785.

Portrait of a Dutch lady of the New York Colony about 1765,
253.
showing a
close-fitting
cap and kerchief of sheer lawn edged with
lace.
263
seen in Racinet, Pauquet, and other books of French costume,
it
is
not necessary to give pictures of them here.
The
small proportion of the people in America in the latter years
who
of course, in the large towns
could truthfully be called gay lived,
and
cities;
the majority lived quietly in
The "History
the country on their large estates or plantations.
Durham, Connecticut," *
describes the
home costumes
New
of rural
England from 1776
"The inhabitants were generally

that is made by hand, in the family.
was brown tow
cloth,
fulled cloth
warm.
It
There was woolen cloth spun

clothier's shop.
There
summer
they generally wore brown tow
worn
the latter being a kind of over shirt.
in the winter time
was sometimes very decent
of fine wool, well spun

in streaked linen or
1800.
linen for the males, with bleached
or linen trowsers and frock;
The
to
and streaked
In the
for shirts.
of
as well as the
clad in fabrics manufactured,
house but fulled and dressed at the
in the
linen
home customs
in
though often coarse was
appearance when made
and well dressed.
checked
linen,
The
females were clad
on week days, and
may
if
not muslin were sometimes brocade or lutestring.
be muslins and
of the last century silk
silks
was
on the Sabbath.
reeled
in chintzes
and
The wedding gowns
it
and woven
in
Near the
Durham.
close
For a
women wore cloaks of scarlet broadcloth. In

women might be seen on the Sabbath riding or walking
considerable time the

the year 1800
in the street or sitting at
and comfortable
ham
about 1775 or
in the
sitting
town.
church having on these cloaks; a very comely
article of dress.
The
behind the
'8o.
Chaises were introduced into Dur-
For some years there were only three chaises
people went to meeting on horseback, the
men on
pillions.
every house had a horse-block.
While
women
continued
characteristic of the houses built
in the first half century after the settlement of
kitchen fireplace, which in
this fashion
Durham was
some cases was seven or
By Chauncey Fowler.
the large
eight feet in
2 64
width, having sometimes one and sometimes two ovens in
back logs two or three
feet in diameter,
admitting
it,
and three or four children

chimney
into the
The
'corners.'
and steady
large
on the hearth
such a
in
fire
fire-
place shone on the faces of
many
a family
circle,
gath-
ered together on a winter's
To many
evening.
a large
family of eight or ten chil-
dren the hearth-stone was

a load stone to draw them
around
it.
knitting
for
and
elder
the
There
daughters.
There were the

the older sons.
apples
and
slates
nuts
lesson
for
There were
for
younger children, or
be
was
mother
the
it
the
may
spelling.
in
There were the two volumes from the Town

Library for the father and
others.
telling
There was story

and
There was
f*~
Figure
A Summer
the
cider enlivened
per
254.
Costume, 1790- 179s (from a Contem-
song
against
singing.
mug
of
by red pep-
cold.
There
was the family Bible and
porary Portrait).
was prayer
before
there were family government,
family
there
retiring
to
rest.
instruction, family
In short,
amusement, and family
religion."
Digitized
by
Google
Diflitlzed
by
Coogle
in
On the occasion of the

New York, his dress is
described as of fine dark brown cloth of
American manufacture, with white
The
and a dress sword.

finery the
women
"New
of the day, of
may
shoes with silver buckles,
This
afford.
all
the
is
the
"The Republican Court":
description given in
"The costume
silk hose,
which followed brought out
ball
young Republic could
of the
267
inauguration of Washington as President,
York,
1789.
of the time
is
Inauguration Ball.
very well illustrated by the portraits
which fortunately there are many, but some readers
be interested
in the
remarks on the dresses of the women which
form a portion of Colonel Stone's description of the First Inaugura-
"Few
tion Ball.
States,
jewels," he says,
"were then worn
We
according to the fashion of the day.
can describe the
United
favorite dress
it
intelligible,
was a plain
On
satin petticoat.
are not quite sure that
we
dress of a lady of rank in the period under con-
full
sideration, so as to render
One
in the
but in other respects the dresses were rich and beautiful,
the neck
celestial
but
was worn a
kerchief, with border stripes of satin.
we
will
blue satin
make
the attempt.
gown with a white
large Italian gauze hand-
The
head-dress was a pouf
of gauze, in the form of a globe, the creneaux or head piece of which
was composed
of white satin, having a double wing, in large plaits,
and trimmed with a wreath
of artificial roses, falling
at the top to the right at the bottom, in front,
The
hair
ranks,
was dressed
fell
taffeta,
with dark stripes of the same colour, having two
one of yellow, and the other white, both trimmed with
silk fringe,
the perriot
over in detached curls, four of which, in two
Another beautiful dress was a perriot made of
floating chignon.
a blue
left
on each side of the neck, and were relieved behind by a
gray Indian
collars, the
all
from the
and the reverse behind.
and a revere trimmed
was worn a yellow
stripes of blue.
Some
in the
corset or
of the ladies
same manner.
bodice, with
large
Under
cross
wore hats & VEspagnole of white
268
satin,
with a band of the same material placed on the crown, like
a wreath of flowers on the head-dress above mentioned.
This
hat,
with a plume, a popular article of dress,
relieved
on the
having
two
was
left side,
handsome
cockades, one of which
was
and the
at the top
other at the bottom.
neck
the
very
On
was worn a
large
plain
gauze
handkerchief, the end of
which was hid under the

bodice
traits of
Stuart's por-
Lady Washing-
Round
ton.
Trum-
in
and
bull's
manner
after the
represented
the
of the perriot a
gauze, a la
bosom
fall
of
Henri IV,
was attached, cut
in
points around the edge.
There was
still
dress which
was thought
to
be very simple and
pretty.
perriot
Figure
both
259.
Woman
in Typical Working Dress, 1790-1800 (taken

from Original Garment at Stenton, Philadelphia).
round with gauze, cut points
The
another
It consisted of
and a
petticoat,
composed
of
the
same description of gray

striped silk,
and trimmed
manner
of herrisons.
at the edges in the
herrisons were indeed nearly the sole trimming used for perriots,
w w u w
at
P &
o o
SB*
o o
Digitizod
by
Google

caracos,
and
petticoats of fashionable ladies,
With
Italian gauze.
upon
made
their necks, with four satin stripes
around the border, two of
The
which were narrow, and the other broad.
plain gauze cap, after the form of the elders

nery.
The
either of ribbons or
wore large gauze handkerchiefs
this dress they
head-dress was a
and ancients of a nun-
shoes were celestial blue, with rose coloured rosettes.
some of
are descriptions of
varied in divers unimportant particulars,
and
to their respective tastes
of all other times,
there
Such
costumes, and although
the principal
by several
ladies,
according
fancies, yet as with the peculiar fashions
the
was a general correspondence
lout
ensemble was the same."
perriot
French
a petticoat
It
was
was
it
so
it
is
always mentioned
in
betrays the
connection with
probably opened in front like a polonaise or sacque.
much
the custom of the
women of that
time to write verses,
by Mrs. Warren* on the
that the following lines
have more
The name
evidently an overdress.
and as
influence,
frivolities of
on account of the theme than the
interest
could possibly claim:
"Woman's Trifling Needs.
"An
inventory clear
Of all
Nor does she
she needs Lamira offers here;
When
fear a rigid Cato's frown
she lays by the rich embroidered gown,
And modestly compounds
for
enough
just
Perhaps, some dozens of more flighty
With lawns and
lustrings,
stuff;
blond and Mechlin laces,
Fringes and jewels, fans and tweezer-cases;
Gay
cloaks and hats of every shape and size,
Scarfs, cardinals,
With
ruffles
and ribbons of
Tippets and handkerchiefs, at
With
finest
And
the
all
dyes;
stamped, and aprons of tambour,

muslins that
choice
fair
least
three score;
India boasts,
herbage from
Chinesan coasts;
(But while the fragrant Hyson leaf regales,
Poems Dramatic and Miscellaneous.
1790
literary style
272
Who'll wear the homespun produce of the vales?
For
if
'twould save the nation from the curse
Of standing
Few can
name a plague
troops; or
this choice, delicious
still
worse
draught give up,
Though all Medea's poisons fill the cup.)

Add feathers, furs, rich satins and ducapes,
And head-dresses in pyramidal shapes;
Sideboards of plate and porcelain profuse,
With
If
that
dittos
fifty
my
the
ladies
use;
poor treacherous memory has missed,
Ingenious
complete the
shall
list.
So weak Lamira, and her wants so few,
Who
can refuse?
they're
but the sex's due.
In youth indeed, an antiquated page

Taught us the threatenings of an Hebrew sage
'Gainst wimples, mantles, curls, and crisping-pins,
But rank not these among our modern sins:
For when our manners are well understood,
What in the scale is stomacher or hood?
'Tis true, we love the courtly mien and air,
The pride of dress and all the debonair;
Yet Clara quits the more dressed negligee,
And
substitutes the careless polanee;
Untill
some
one from Brittania's court,
fair
Some jaunty
dress or newer taste import;
This sweet temptation could not be withstood,
Though
Can
for the purchase paid her father's blood.
the stern patriot Clara's suit deny ?
'Tis beauty asks,
The
portrait
and reason must comply."
by Copley of Mercy Warren, reproduced as a
piece to her biography in the popular series
and Revolutionary Times," represents her
trimmed with
lace
and a small
fly
in
"Women
frontis-
of Colonial
a brocade sacque richly
cap, under which the hair
is
arranged low and without powder.
Mr. Wansey, the English

in Philadelphia,
traveller, describes
visit to
the theatre
which he said was "as elegant and convenient and
large as Covent Garden.
should have thought myself
land judging by the appearance of the
still
in
company around me.
Eng-
The
some
don
273
wore small bonnets of the same fashion as those
ladies
many had
of chequered straw;
without caps, as with us, and very few had
The younger
saw
in
Lon-
their hair full dressed,

it
in the
French
style.
appeared with their hair flowing in ringlets on
ladies
their shoulders
The gentlemen had round
(Figure 254).
with high collars, cut quite in the English fashion, and
hats, coats
many
coats
of striped silk."
In 1795 a very decided change in women's dress

clinging materials superseded the
Gowns were made
stiff
noted.
Soft
brocades and rustling
silks.
is
with narrow
and short bodices with long
skirts
the shoulders
tight-fitting sleeves;
were
muslin
or
gauze
handkerchiefs
sometimes worn
were
but
uncovered,
generally
the
in
house, while for outdoor wear, long
were
scarfs
on
put
shoulders and
around the
to the feet in
fell
Hair was worn
front.
comb
loose
in
FIGURE 265.
Back of Mauve Crepe,
caught up with a
curls, generally
Caps
or knot of ribbon.
for elderly people
were made
in "a variety of
styles (Figures 224,
225, 253, 259).
In her memoirs, Elizabeth

just
how
the
gowns
Bowne
takes the trouble to describe
day were made.
In 1798 she writes
to
patterns I shall enclose, the one with a fan back
is
of her
her family:
"The gown
meant
to just
or anything.
same
meet before and pin
The
stitched on,
other pattern
no
strings, belt
a plain waist with strips of the
and laced between with bobbin or cord.
a muslin done so with black
and
is
in the robings,
have altered
silk cord,
my brown
silk
have
which looks very handsome,
into
one
like
the other pat-
274
tern.
made
in
was over
at
Saco yesterday and saw one Mary (King) had
Boston.
It
was a separate
waist, or rather the breadth did
go quite
not
The
up.
was plain with one

cording
rest of
the waist
plain.
The
plaited in
side,
of
behind and the
in
let
waist
stripe
was
skirt
box
perfectly
part was
plaits three of
which reached
the
to
shoulder straps and only enough

left to
is
meet
straight before,
one of the patterns
and
have
sent."
In Figure 341 the picture of
a dress
is
given which has an
interesting story connected with

it
(Figure 265).
The
owner, Mile. Henrietta
Madeline
1'
Official
de Wofoin
(afterwards Mrs. Sartori),
was a
god-daughter of Queen
Marie
Antoinette, her father being an

officer
at
the Court
XVI, who was
Domingo on
of
sent
official
Louis
to
San
business
just before the outbreak of the
r
Figure
Pelisse of Sage-green Silk with Quilted
Border
(from an Original Garment of 1797).
managed
in the
French Revolution.
Soon
after
occurred the insurrection of the
266.
Negroes against the whites
San Domingo.
to escape to this country, but lost all traces of his
excitement and
knew nothing
of her fate.
in
M. de Wofoin
He made
daughter
his
way
Seventeenth Century Utensils.

Figure 267. Charcoal foot-warmer
Four fat-oil lamps
One
One
One
Figure 268.One
One
candle sconce
tin lantern
toaster.
sadiron
charcoal tongs
Ladles, skimmer,
Two
and fork
trivets
Copper chopping-dish.
Figure 268.

to Trenton,
New
Jersey,
277
and while there wandered one day
into the
market-place, where he met his daughter's old black nurse.
him
told
that she
to Trenton.
Rome by
in love
had brought "Mademoiselle"
Shortly after young Sartori,
New
Jersey.
been the mother of

this picture is
by a
original
sent from
Trenton and
forty,
fell
Lam-
lived at
Mrs. Sartori died at the age of
The
also
having
gown from which
taken has been most kindly lent to us for this book,
direct descendant of the heroine of the story.
A
to-day
dress of a quaint cut
and
of a fine
glazed cotton
came from Martinique with Madame
came a pensioner
last
who had been
They were married and
fifteen children.
She
America and
his father to visit this country, arrived at
with Mademoiselle.
bertville,
to
at
Christ
Chevalier,
unknown
who
Church Hospital, Philadelphia,
be-
in the
years of the eighteenth century (Figures 248, 342).
This fashion of short waists and narrow
skirts for
341, 342, 344)
and high-collared coats short
marked the end
of the eighteenth century.
women
(Figures
at the waist for
men
CHILDREN'S GARMENTS
i
700- 1 800
FINERY
In a frock neatly trimmed with beautiful
And
lace,
hair nicely dressed, hanging over her face,
Thus decked,
With a
large
Harriet went to the house of a friend,

little
"Ah! how they
And
party the evening to spend.
will all
be delighted, I guess,
my
stare with surprise at
Thus
said the vain
girl,
elegant dress";
and her
little
heart beat,
Impatient the happy young party to meet.
But
To
And
alas! they
were
all
too intent on their fun
observe the gay clothes this fine lady had on;

thus
all
her trouble quite
lost
its
design,
For they saw she was proud, but forgot she was
fine.
'T was Lucy, though only in simple white clad
(Nor trimmings, nor
laces,
nor jewels she had),
Whose cheerful good-nature delighted them more

Than all the fine garments that Harriet wore.
'Tis better to have a sweet smile on one's face
Than to wear a rich frock with an elegant lace,
For the good-natured girl is loved best in the main
If her
dn;
is
but decent, though ever so plain.
-J. T.
8i
Children's Garments
i
700-1 800
HE clothes of the children of the eighteenth century

were marvellously made and quaintly resembled
From many
garments of their parents.
the
authorities
we
wore stays
learn that children
in
Colonial times, and one interesting specimen, of
which a picture
is
given in Figures 280 and 281,
has been most kindly lent for this book.

particular pair of stays
child of about
Figure
although
269.
it
Qf
w hich
was
two years
cannot
One
old.
learn
belonged to the family of James Logan,
elbow sleeves and square neck, the bodice evidently
and the
stays,
flowered chintz.
the
same
front,
this
style,
skirt
opening over a petticoat.
(Figure 271.)
are
child's
to
gown
history,
made with
is
be worn over
This
is
made
of
dress
is
made
in
but the bodice opens over a sort of stomacher in
and the material
gown
Another
little
exact
the
This
worn by a
evidently
is
of heavy
damask
The
linen.
sleeves of
finished at the cuffs with three tiny buttons,
worked
over with linen thread (Figure 272).
Dresses of a
greater
skill,
fastened
They
little later
period, probably 1750, are
of fine white cambric with low necks
up with buttons and loops
of
made with even
and short
sleeves
narrow tape on the shoulder.
are ornamented with groups of the very tiniest tucks, with

'3
a3
284
cording and tambour embroidery.
Caps, which babies wore both by
day and night, are also of exquisite needlework.
Socks, worked with
the initials of the baby, were knitted of fine white
pair of this kind
is
owned by the Pennsylvania
Dames, which was worn
The
babies too.
Little mitts of linen
One minute
pair
quaint
were worn by these
worn
pictures given here are of mitts
vania by babies of the Norris and
gram.
is
marked
colours scattered over
it
is
Logan
in Pennsyl-
families (Figures 272, 277).
in red silk with the initials J.
gown
little
little
babyhood by Isaac Norris, Speaker of
in
the Continental Congress.
One
silk.
Society of Colonial
L. in mono-
of buff chintz with flowers in different
This was worn by
a child of two years in the West family.
Museum
In the
quilted
of
Memorial Hall, Philadelphia, there
hood of about 1760 made of dark blue
little
gowns and caps
Museum
of the Colonial
ing
silk,
of even earlier date
Dames
at Stenton,
is
a child's
and some charm-
may be
seen in the
Philadelphia (Figures
271, 272).
Very
are the infant dress and cap
interesting
286, not only
on account of the
history associated with
them.
shown
The baby
were made so beautifully grew in time
to
to the chest of our great Washington, he
for
whom
these clothes
As he was
startled
tion,
New
fly blister
mounted the poultice on a
and decorated the edges with a pattern
piece of white kid
Figure
be a patriotic doctor in
York, and being called upon one day, in 1789, to apply a
leaf.
in
skilled needlework, but also for the
in gold
in the act of placing the plaster the illustrious patient
him by the
question, "Will
We
young man?"
in great confusion,
it
draw any
are told that
better for the decora-
the doctor finished his work
but he lived to be proud of the opportunity which
has lent an additional interest even to his baby clothes.

confessed that our picture
fails
to
show the
exquisite
It
must be
drawn-work
where the threads of sheerest muslin have been drawn at intervals

to
form a
stripe of
open work and a delicate pattern embroidered
REIGNS OF QUEEN ANNE, GEORGE

1
II
AND
III
about 1730.
A
a
gown and muslin
printed gown and embroidered cap taken from a
Child
Logan
date about 1710.
costume preserved
with mitts and embroid272. Child
gown of white damask
Figure 270.
Figure 271.
red stuff
girl in
cap,
in
genuine
Figure
I,
702- 1 790
in the
little
family,
linen
in a
ered cape, date about 1720.
This and the costume shown
in
Figure 271
can be seen at Stenton, Philadelphia.
Figure 273.
Boy
Little boy in a suit of blue silk, lace ruffles,
and powdered wig,
date 1740.
Figure 274.
Figure 275.
from an
Little boy in
brown
velvet suit and cocked hat, about 1760.
in a blue ribbed silk suit lined
original costume
Hall, Philadelphia.
The
now
with green, which
in the Colonial
Museum
in
coat has filigree silver buttons.
waistcoat of flowered dimity.
The
hair
powdered, date about 1756.

Figure 276. Child in a buff printed cambric
is
tied
in
is
copied
Independence
He
has on a
a queue and
is
not
with
muslin
This
an
gown, date about 1760.
muslin gown trimmed with tambour embroidery
Child
with cap
match, about 1790.
muff, and
Figure 278.
Joshua Reynold's
1780.
Figure 279.Young
a muslin gown trimmed with a very
and cap.
is
Figure 277.
dress,
thin
kerchief
original
also
in sheer
to
Little girl in cloak,
hat, after Sir
picture
girl
elaborate
in
pattern of embroidery in white cotton.

of 1790.
This
is
from an
original
garment
FlCUKF.270.
Figure
272.
Figure 27 X
Figure
274.

on the filmy mesh (Figure
cotton, white
286).
simple everyday
ground with a pin dot of
287
slip of
printed
red, belonged to the
same
baby.*
Until the latter part of the eighteenth century
to dress children exactly like their parents.
portraits,
it
was customary
This we learn from old
and very uncomfortable must the powdered wigs and
stocks have been at a Royal Juvenile Party such as
Figure
Figure
280.
lace
Queen Caroline
281.
Child's Stays.
delighted in giving for the diversion of her large family of princelings,
where the children were dressed
in
miniature copies of their
parents' court costumes.-}-
In the Colonies the dress of the children was strangely elaborate.

In the collection of Washington's manuscripts (edited by Ford) are
two
lists
of four
of clothes ordered for the Custis children at the tender ages
and
six,
which would
startle
a modern nursery.
* Samuel Holden Parsons Lee, born in Connecticut, 1771.

t Chronicles of Fashion.
Washington
2 88
ordered for young Custis, his stepson (aged
from England
six),
the following outfit
in 1759:
One
piece Irish Holland at 4s
Two
yards
fine
cambric at 10s
Six pocket handkerchiefs small and fine

Six pairs gloves
Two
Two
laced hats
pieces India
Nankeen
Six pairs fine thread stockings
Four pairs coarser thread stockings

Six pairs worsted stockings
Four pairs pumps
One summer suit of clothes to be made of something

One piece of black hair ribbon
One pair handsome silver shoe and knee buckles
One light duffel cloak with silver frogs
And
and thin
age of four, the following
for little Nellie Custis, then at the
articles
light
were ordered:
Eight yards fine printed linen at 3s 6d
One
piece Irish Holland at 4s
Two ells
of fine Holland at 10s
Eight pairs kid mits
Four pairs gloves
Two
pairs silk shoes
Four pairs Calamanco shoes

Four pairs leather pumps
Six pairs fine thread stockings
Four pairs
fine
worsted stockings
Two
Two
Two
bonnets
One
stiffened coat of fashionable silk
fans
masks
made
to
pack thread stays
One-half piece of flowered Dimity
Two
Two
Two
Two
yards fine cambric at 10s
caps
pairs ruffles
tucker bibs and aprons,
if
fashionable:
In addition to this order for suitable clothing and materials, the great
man, under whose beneficent care
it
was the good fortune
of
the
A portrait of a young
Philadelphia, about 1760.
A portrait of Miss Hill of Philadelphia, about 1756.
A portrait of a child the New York Colony, about 1700.
285. Picture of a
New York Colony early
the eighteenth
tury Christiana Ten Broeck.
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
282.
girl in
283.
284.
in
girl in
in
Figure
283.
.0'

Custis children to come, added ios. worth of toys, six
children beginning to read, one fashionably
and other
In
toys,
New
little
books
for
dressed baby, ios. id.,
ios.
England,
too, children
were most richly
and we
attired;
read with amazement of a boarding-school outfit provided for two
maidens of Norwich.
"The
daughters of General Huntington were sent successively
and fourteen years
at the ages of twelve
a boarding-school in Boston.
was
of high social standing,
often into
company, that
to finish their education at
The lady who kept

and made a point of
their
manners might be formed according
to the prevailing codes of politeness
and
Figure a86.
Baby Dress and Cap,
etiquette.
fitted
ton
One
display.
out with twelve
when her
silk
carefully
in
Bos-
instructress wrote to her parents requesting that another
made
of a certain rich fabric that
in order that
might be equal
to her rank.
her appearance in society
"Little misses at
fell
a dancing-school ball
to their share in the
in frocks of
an exquisite
and forwarded." *
thirteenth robe of silk of
therefore immediately procured
the only fetes that
were dressed
in articles of orna-
gowns, had been but a short time
had recently been imported,
was
course the
who had been
of the daughters
dress should be procured for her,
pattern
Of
1771.
wardrobe prepared for the young ladies was rich
ment and
the establishment
taking her pupils
lawn or cambric.
* History of Norwich.
(for these
were almost
days of discrimination)
Worsted was then thought
292
dress enough for
common days,"*
the famous annalist
us, in
tells
speaking of Philadelphia children in the Revolutionary period.
Marie Antoinette was the

lished court fashion.
mother
first
She had a simple
made
to disregard
suit of jacket
Dauphin, but
the
for
the estab-
and trousers
the
Chronicle of Fashion assures us that
"even
sible
probably the most sen-
this,
of
innovations
as
if
the
all
ill-fated
dress,
in
was
Queen's
reviled
the paraphernalia of full dress
was a moral
obligation."
In the portraits of English
dren in the
we become
at once
in
chil-
latter part of the century,
familiar with costumes
simple and picturesque, as
Figures 269, 277, 278, 279, 287.
Copley's
well-known family group,
and the picture
of his family
by Ben-
jamin West (Figure 225), are
satis-
factory evidence of the adoption of

these
Figure
Boy
in
appropriate
fashions
for
the
287.
children of the Colonies.
Ordinary Dress, 1790.
Figures 284 and
graphed from portraits of two
little girls
in the
during the reign of Queen Anne, in gowns so
285 are photo-
New York
stiff
Colony
and so unsuitable
they would have baffled even the graceful brush of a Reynolds or
a Romney.
* Watson's Annals.
Figure
288.
Picture of a
and worn
bric
Figure
Figure
in
Back
290. A
289.
suit of blue silk,
little
boy
in
flying Josie,"
made
of white
cam-
eighteenth century.
with buttonholes of silver thread, worn by a
of a child's dress, buff chintz with coloured flowers,
worn
Pennsylvania about 17 10.
Figure
292.
to be
neck
in
late in the
Pennsylvania, about 1756.
Figure 291. Picture

in
garment called a "
Pennsylvania
view of the same.
Picture of a white
shift,
the sleeves of which are laid in fine plaits,
worn under a gown with elbow sleeves and square neck. The ruffle
of very fine linen cambric, and made to turn down over the dress,
is
at
as
Figure 195.
Figure 293. A
child's dress of
damask
linen,
sylvania about 1720.
with linen mittens, worn in Penn-
Digitized by
Google
MEN'S APPAREL
i
700-1 800
During the Time of
Queen Anne, George
I,
II,
and III of England,
Presidents Washington and
Adams
Digitized by
Google
GOVERNOR WENTWORTH.
"A
portly person, with three-cornered hat,
crimson velvet coat, head high in
air,
Gold-headed cane and nicely powdered
And diamond
much
Dignified, stately, florid,
For
To
this
hair,
buckles sparkling at his knees,

at ease.
was Governor Wentworth, driving down

Harbour, just beyond the town,
Little-
Where
his great house stood, looking out to sea,
goodly place,' where it was good to be.

was a pleasant mansion, an abode
Near and yet hidden from the great highroad;
It
Sequestered
among
a noble
trees,
Baronial and Colonial in
its
pile,
style!
Within, unwonted splendours met the eye,
Panels and floors of oak, and tapestry,
Carved chimney
pieces, where,
on brazen dogs,
Revelled and roared the Christmas
Doors opening
fire
of logs;
into darkness unawares,
Mysterious passages and
flights
And on the walls, in heavy

The ancestral Wentworths,
of stairs;
gilded frames,
with old Scripture names.
Such was the mansion where the great man dwelt.
He
gave a splendid banquet served on plate
Such as became the Governor
Who
of the State
represented England and the King,
And was
magnificent in everything."
" The Poet's
97
Tale."
Men's Apparel
i
ERIWIGS
700-1 800
and cocked hats were the character-
men
features of the dress of
istic
in the
first
half of the eighteenth century.
REIGNS OF QUEEN ANNE AND
GEORGE
Under Queen Anne
were
and the
three sides,
figure
very wide
294.
and were
smaller
and
long,
worn by men
regularly
cocked on
the coats
cuffs of
reaching
The broad sword
wrist.
the hats
were
almost to the
had vanished, and
belt
the sword hilt could be seen beneath the stiffened skirt of the square-
Blue or scarlet
cut coat (Figure 163).

silver clocks,
small buckles (Figure

ings below
63)
velvet garters
were worn over the stock-
Campaign wigs imported from France now became
They were
made very
full
with
long
When human
towards the front (Figure 163).

little
stockings, with 'gold or
the knee, being fastened on one side by small buckles
(Figure 163).
popular.
silk
were much worn, as were also shoes with red heels and
horsehair supplied the place, in
hair
curls
hanging
was
scarce, a
the part least in sight.
In 1706 a peculiar cock of the hat came into fashion called the
Ramilie, and a long plaited
and a small one
at the
Those who did
the wig with a great
tail to
bow
at the top
bottom known as the Ramilie wig (Figure 299).

not wear powder and
299
who
objected
to
the

enormous expense or weight
wore
of the fashionable wigs,
own
their
hair in long curls to resemble them, but the long popularity of the
uncomfortable fashion of the periwig
indeed astonishing.
is
Dr. Granger in his Life of Charles
when
it first
came
many
procured
were strangers
from
into vogue, says:
persons a respect and even veneration which they
and
to before
their personal merit,"
country gentleman
the heads
worn
of
which they had not the
who employed a
several
until the
to
painter to place periwigs
Vandyke's
of
facetious barber in
his
was
of a
upon
Large wigs were
portraits.
middle of the eighteenth century.
on the sign over
least claims
and he quotes the amusing anecdote
imitating a natural head of hair
speaking of the fashion
II,
"It was observed that a periwig
plain
peruke
called a short bob.
London had
the following
rhyme painted
door:*
"Oh Absolom, Oh Absolom,

Oh Absolom my son,
If thou hadst
Thou
The
is
ridiculous long wigs of 1710 were decidedly expensive.
mentioned
We
worn a periwig
hadst not been undone."
in
"The
read that in Philadelphia early in the eighteenth century
were wearing "cocked hats, and wigs, coats with large
and
skirts, lined
stiffened with
buckram.
three or four large plaits in the skirt,

to
One
Tatler" costing 40 guineas.
The
cuffs,
men
big
coat of a beau had
wadded almost
like
a coverlet
keep them smooth, cuffs very large up to the elbows, the collars
were
flat
and low, so as
of fine linen cambric
readily to expose the close plaited neck-stock
and the large
of the neck, shirts with
hand
silver stock-buckle
close fitted, with silver, stone or paste buckles, shoes or

silver
on the back
ruffles, sleeves finely plaited,
breeches
pumps with
buckles of various sizes and patterns, thread, worsted and
stockings.
general
The
was
silk
very boys often wore wigs, and their clothing in
similar to that of the

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Day Book.
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33
In the year 1719 Jonathan Dickinson, a Friend, in writing to

London for his clothes, says, " I want for myself and my three sons, each
good
a wig
The
offers
no
of George I
changes
distinctive
Wigs held
remark.
for
bobs."
light
reign
IP
ground, and in 1720
their
white hair for the manufacture of
them "brought
a monstrous price."
Heavy
cloaks or Roque-
laures were
still
worn by
men and were

tion
is
New
of
made
often
fur.
Men-
in letters
from
trimmed with
England about 1720
a striped camlet cloak
lined with a plain colour.
Drugget was also used
for
the purpose (Figure 297).
The
of
ordinary
gentlemen
is
thus
summed up by M.
in his
the
Queen Anne and
reigns of
George
costume
during
briefly
Planche*
"History of British
Costume."
He
says:
" Square cut coats and long
flapped
waistcoats
with
Figure 297.
Taken from a Genuine Roquelaure, Middle
of
the Eighteenth Century.
pockets in them, the latter
meeting the stockings,
still
drawn up over
to conceal the breeches, but gartered below
the knee so high as entirely

it
large hanging cuffs
and
3 04
lace ruffles.
The
skirt of the coat stiffened out
from beneath which peeped the
hilt of
cord and splendid belt in which
it
Blue or scarlet
swung
preceding Reigns.
in the
Lace neck-
stockings with gold or silver clocks.
silk
cloths, square-toed, short quartered
small buckles;
with wire or buckram
the sword deprived of the
shoes, with high red heels
and
very long and formally curled perukes (or periwigs),
black riding wigs, and night cap wigs;
small three cornered hats
laced with gold or silver galloons, and sometimes trimmed with feathers
comprised the habit of the noblemen and gentlemen from
As
in all ages
were indulged
agance at
in
and
was
Figure
parishes in
an
all
her colonies.
historic inscription
724."
pet extravneckties.
Bag Wig,
1730.
for the English
church
300.
1750.
in
America
sending beautiful services of silver to
Many
of these
and the Queen's
may be
initials
seen to-day with
engraved
in the
simple
In her reign the dress of the English clergyman
script of her time.
was inconspicuous but

worn by the majority
close,
in
and
Figure
299.
Rami lie Wig,
Queen Anne had a zealous care

and took personal pleasure
702 to
The
beautiful lace in ruffles
298.
Periwig with Tail, 1700.
climes, variations of the prevailing style
by gay young men about town.
this period
Figure
all
distinctive,
and with
slight modifications
of clergymen in America.
Knee-breeches
was
fitting
buckled shoes, long black coats, and wigs were the prevailing
characteristics
in
everyday
life.
In
connection with the portrait
to
Digitized by
Google

of Bishop
White
307
of Pennsylvania given in Figure 358,
to recall the story told
Continental Congress.
by himself of
He was
his
interesting
appointment as chaplain to the
when a messen-
riding with a friend
ger from Congress overtook him.
it is
He
hesitated for a few
moments,
danger of enrolling himself with the cause of the
realizing the
patriots,
but after a short deliberation he turned his horse's head and accom-
panied the emissary to General Washington's headquarters before
Yorktown*
name has
It
was a brave
step which he never regretted,
and
his
ever been associated with the early sessions of our Congress
in Philadelphia.
Bishop White was consecrated at Lambeth Palace
in 1787, and, despite his republican partisanship,
of good will
on the part of the king and
REIGN OF GEORGE
There are numerous
authorities for the
reign, but the versatile genius of
amid many tokens
others.
II
costume of George IPs
Hogarth f alone has furnished us

all classes and con-
with sufficient material for a study of the dress of
men and women
ditions of the English
His "Five Orders
of his day.
of Periwigs" gives us the favorite varieties of that style of head-gear,
which was certainly a very expensive fashion, for

that in the Colonies periwigs of light gray
Light grizzle
guineas each.
in
proportion,
down
to
hair cue-perukes were
bob perukes
of the
ties
in
human
we
1734
read
hair were four
were three guineas, and other colours
twenty-five shillings.
from two guineas
same material a
Light gray
human
to fifteen shillings each,

little
dearer,
real
and
gray hair
being most in fashion, and dark of " no estimation."
The
court dress of noblemen in 1735
is
described as a coat
made
of coloured velvet or fine cloth laced with gold or silver, breeches to
match; waistcoat of rich flowered

ground.
Wigs were
still
silk of
worn with
a large pattern on a white
large curls standing
up from
the forehead (Figure 296).

* Simpson's Lives of Eminent Philadelphians.
f Born 1697; died 1764.
3 oS
Fairholt in his "History of English

of
the
hat,
the
man who wore
it
"By
Dress" says:
the cock
was known; and they varied

from the modest broad
brim of the clergy and
country-man
the
to
upturned hat
slightly
of the country gentle-
man
or citizen, or the
more decidedly
fash-
ionable cock worn by
merchantmen, and
would - be - fashionable
while a
Londoners;
very pronounced h
militaire
affected
cock
la
was
by the gallant
about the court."

of these styles
All
may be
seen in the pictures of
These hats
Hogarth.
were usually made of

soft
felt
brim
with a large
caught
up
by
three loops of cord to
a button on the
Being
soft,
top.
they could
be crushed under the

Figure 303.
Back View of Figure
Middle Eighteenth Century (from

the Original Costume).
229,
arm and each

could be
let
pleasure
wind, or rain, or sun.
although
it
Mr. Wingfield speaks
doth not rain," and observes that
of a hat
in
in
flap
down
at
case of
"unlooped
one of Cibber's
Figure 304. Portrait of Rev. George Whitefield, showing the gown and wig
worn in New England by a clergyman of the English church in the latter
half of the eighteenth century.
Figure 305. Portrait of Rev. Jacob Duche", D.D., showing a gown and close wig
worn in Pennsylvania late in the eighteenth century.
Figure 306. Portrait of Dr. Ezra Stiles, in periwig and gown worn in New Eng-
land late in the eighteenth century.
Figure
307.
Portrait
of
Rt.
Rev. Richard Challoner, Vicar Apostolic of the
English Colonies in America, 1756, showing that wigs were worn by the priests
of the
Figure
Roman
308.
Catholic Church of that date.
Portrait
of Jonathan
Edwards, showing the plain coat and bands
of a Presbyterian minister, second half of the eighteenth century.
Portrait of
Samuel Provoost, D.D., First Bishop of New

York, showing the white wig, full sleeves, and black gown, late eighteenth
Figure 309.
century.
Rt. Rev.
Digitized by
Google

comedies
we
311
a footman "unlooping his hat to protect his
find
powdered head from the wet."
To
use the snuff-box gracefully was an accomplishment con-
sidered necessary to the

into the
young man
of fashion on his entrance
Made
gay world of the eighteenth century.
of every sort
of metal, adorned with precious stones or costly miniature paintings, the snuff-box
was
pensable on occasions of
which were used

239
is
in
great demand, and considered as indis-
full
dress as the fan.
in the Colonies
A beau of
this
time
is
these boxes
In Figure
Madame Le
Comte, for
given a picture of one owned by
the fashion of using snuff
Many of
have been preserved.
was not confined
to
men.
spoken of as "appearing in a different
wig every day, and thus perplexing the lady to whom he

was paying his addresses, by a new face every time they met
during the first months of their courtship. Hats could be moulded
style of
in so
many
different cocks as to
change the whole appearance of
the wearer." *
Hats had broader brims (Figure 197) and "were cocked

and pulling them off by way of salutation was
triangularly,
invariably the fashion for
all
who had any breeding,"
a famous letterwriter of that day.
according to
Boots were worn for riding,
with large broad tops which reached half-way up the thigh.
The
fashionable costume for
men
in the Colonies, identical
with the prevailing style in England, was not subject to quite as
many changes
as the dress of the
women.
In 1740 a "jockey coat" was ordered from Boston of

with waistcoat and breeches to match.
It is
fine cloth
"to be trimmed plain,
only with a button of the same sort as that of the waistcoat but pro-
The same gentleman ordered "as much three

made for men's wear, and the best that can
money, as much as will make a complete suit." In
portionately bigger."
pile black velvet as is
be had for the
The
4
Spectator.
312
addition to this he desires a night-gown of a deep crimson
damask
lined with the
About
this
same
time there was a slight change in shoes.
went out of fashion and were replaced by pointed toes
of every size
was
Claret coloured cloth
was
Pigtails
at
time considered the correct
that
also very fashionable between 1740
came
all classes,
and shape.
thing for suits, and light blue with silver button-holes

at the knees,
Square toes
for both sexes.
Buckles became the ambition of
(See Figures 229, 231.)
and were worn
Genoa
colour.
into fashion
and
silver garters
and 1751.
about the middle of the eighteenth
century.
"'But pray what's that much
Which with
From
'Sir,
It is
many
of the
sticks with ugly faces carved
One
of the
marked
that
gay young sparks carried long
on the handles.
characteristics of the
was a mincing
eighteenth century
a whip,
and hip to hip?'

do not look so fierce and big
"
a modish pigtail wig.'
Instead of swords,
oak
like
the air does wav'ring skip
side to side,
air.
"he always entered a room with
We
men
of fashion in the
read of Horace Walpole
that style of affected delicacy
which fashion had made almost natural; with chapeau-bras between his hands as
knees bent, and
feet
if
About 1740 the

out of
style,
he wished to compress
on
and the
tip-toe as
if
it,
or under his arm;
afraid of a wet floor." *
large cocked hat
and full-bottomed wig went
lace cravat with long ends,
which had been
in
fashion for about thirty years, gave place to a small black cravat
worn with a
ruffled shirt front (Figure 197.)
in the coat also.
There was a change
broad collar which turned back round the neck
contrasted strangely with the total want of collar in the earlier style,
while the cuffs became very deep, reaching above the elbows and not
very wide at the wrists.
skirt
The
coat
reaching to the calf of the
itself fitted
leg.
close to the
This change of
* Miss Hawkins' Memoirs.
body with
style did not
Figure
310.
Back view of a coat of
showing the very
Figure
311.
Front
full tails
Clermont Manor,
Figures 312 and 313
jean, typical
of
light
New York
Front
brown
George IPs
view of the same.
velvet figured in red
Livingston, Esq., of
Colony.
and back views of a coat of brown
summer garment
and greer^
reign.
Worn by Robert
of a Friend.
twilled
cottor

long remain popular even in England.
notice the wide cuffs
and wider hat brims
In prints of 1744
315
we again
of a few years before.
About 1750 muffor
tees,
woolen
little
muffs
of
colours,
were used by
various
men in the
They were
enough
to
Colonies.
"just big
admit both
hands and long enough

to
screen
the wrists,
which were then more

exposed than now
for
they wore short sleeves

to their coats
on pur-
pose to display
their
fine plaited linen shirt
sleeves with their gold

cuff buttons
and on
oc-
casions ruffles of lace."
(Figures 182, 214.)
In the
son
men
calico
summer seaoften
wore
morning gowns
at all times of the
day in
the street as well as at
home.
A damask ban-
yan was much the same

Figure 314.
Gentleman in Banyan and Cap.
thing by another name.
We
wonder
can hardly
that in Virginia
cumbrous
petticoats
and the southern colonies the hot wigs and
prescribed
by fashion were often found too
3 i6
uncomfortable for daily, wear, and we read with a certain sense of
a negligee costume of banyans and nightcaps adopted by
of
relief,
the planters
The
and
their wives.
climate must be
remembered as a potent inducement
without the long curled wigs and wadded coats; and,

fort of stiff stays
and voluminous
petticoats in
REIGN OF GEORGE
In 1760,
"Brown
head.
worn, but were
On
wooden box
go
III
frequently sent for
be dressed on his block-
to the barber to
wigs," for which a
to
the discom-
an American summer!
when wigs were powdered, they were
that purpose in a
alas,
brown powder was used, were
than "the white disguise."
less fashionable
ceremonious occasions,
if
wigs were not worn, the hair was
craped, curled, and powdered by barbers.
About 1770, when wigs went out of favour and the natural hair
preferred, it became the fashion to dress it in a queue, or to
was
wear
it
in
a black
silk
bag
tied
with a
bow
of black ribbon (Figures
303, 3i8. 35 2 353. 354, 355)>
With the queues belong
frizzled sidelocks,
the natural hair, or in the absence of a long

to
it
(Figures 352, 353, 354,
for the longest possible
whip
to tie theirs in eel skins to aid
is
supposed
keep the powder
to
a splice was added
and boatmen used
of hair, that sailors

its
growth.
in place (Figure 357).

is
gleaned from Washington's manu-
In 1759 he ordered from England for his
"A New-market
of
great coat with a loose
own
shower of rain."
let it
be
made
use:
hood (Figure 364)
Blew Drab or broadcloth with straps
to the present taste
him
be a fine net worn over hair and queue
colonial item of interest
scripts.
made
tie
Such was the general passion
curious silhouette of Washington by Folwell represents
with what
to
355).
and toupees formed of
before,
to
it,
according
of such cloth as will turn
a good
Figure
315 Portrait
of
John Penn, Colonial Governor, showing fur-trimmed
coat.

of
Thomas Penn,
Colonial Governor.
of Patrick Gordon, Colonial Governor.

of
James Hamilton, Lieutenant
Governor of Pennsyl-
vania, 1783.
Digitized by
Goo*
Digitized by
Google
Digitized by
Google

"A
light
summer
suit of
3i9
Duroy by the measure,
Four pieces best India nankeen,
Two
best plain beaver hats at 20s.
One
piece of black satin ribbon,
sword
belt,
are also ordered on the
red morocco or buff, no buckles or rings,"
same
date.
In Watson's "Annals of Philadelphia"
we
read: "Coats of red
were considerably worn, even by boys, and plush breeches
cloth
and plush
vests of various colours,
made
or durant,
and sometimes
of worsted,
were
was a
in
common
use.
Everlasting,
fabric of great use for breeches,
for vests
which had great depending pocket flaps,
and the
breeches were very short
above the
the
art
stride because
suspending
of
them by suspenders was
unknown.
was then
It
the test of a well-formed
man, that
he. could
JACKBOOT.ryoi-.
RIDING
GAiTER.1727: boots. i7s#-r
by
Figure
319.
Figure
320.
Figure
321.
Figure 32a.
form readily
his -natural
keep his breeches above his hips, and his stockings without gartering,
above the
calf of the leg.
" In the time of the Revolutionary
war many of the American
officers
introduced the use of Dutch blankets for great coats (Figure 364).
Large
Some
silver
buttons worn on coats and vests were a
people had the
initials of their
Sometimes they were made out of

impression
still
retained;
In
suit
New
curled were
of wealth.
button.
real quarter dollars, with the coinage
these were used for the coats, and the
eleven-penny-bits for vests and breeches.
an entire
mark
names engraved on each
One
old gentleman wore
decorated with conch shell buttons, silver mounted."
England before the Revolution, "powdered wigs
worn by clergymen and other
full
and
dignitaries (Figures 304,
3 20
306, 307, 308, 317, 326, 329).
was usually made
of
silk,
full-dress
worn
of cloth or camlet in all the colonies.
Mr. Sydney George Fisher, the
the judges on
when
black;
May
blue,
13,
despite
his
Quaker
wore
bench
the
robes faced
scarlet
with
the tailor shops, instead of the dull-coloured woolens
which they now

of
historian,
unwonted enthusiasm: "Those were brave days
ancestry, exclaims with
when
lace,
Roquelaures and great
the waistcoat often richly embroidered."*

coats were
gentleman
for a
suit
with trimmings of gold and silver
offer,
advertised, as
buff,
1773, 'scarlet,
and other coloured superfine
penmanship fame,
is
in the
green,
cloths';
Gazetteer
crimson, white, sky
when John Hancock,
home
described in his
New York
blue,
of
Boston with a red
in
which was turned over the edge
velvet skull-cap lined with white linen
of the velvet about three inches deep, a blue
damask dressing-gown
lined with silk, a white stock, satin embroidered waistcoat, black satin
breeches, white silk stockings to his knees,
The
first
umbrellas to keep
and red morocco
off the rain
coarse and clumsy, with rattan sticks.
were of oiled
slippers."f
linen,
very
Before their time some physi-
cians and ministers used an oiled linen cape hooked round their shoulders, looking not unlike the big coat-capes
now
in use.
They were
only used for severe storms, like modern water-proofs.
We
made
believe
it
was about the year
771 that the
in Philadelphia to introduce the use of
"They were
as a protection from the sun.
'Gazette'
physicians
as a ridiculous
effeminacy.
recommended them
to
keep
first efforts
umbrellas
in
were
summer
then scouted in the public
On
the
other
hand,
the
off vertigoes, epilepsies, sore
eyes, fevers, etc."
Watches were worn

but they were not in
in fob pockets
common
t
M.
Men, Women, and Manners
J Watson's Annals.
with seals attached by a ribbon,
use until the end of the century.J

Caulkins.
of Colonial Days.
Figure 323. Portrait of James Logan, showing white wig and

worn in Pennsylvania, 1745.
Figure 324. Portrait of Fisher Ames, showing a plain costume
judicial robe,
of the middle
of the eighteenth century.
Figure 325.
Portrait
of
John Jay
in his robes as First Chief Justice of the
United States.
Figure
326.
Portrait of Nathaniel Appleton of Boston, showing white wig with
puffs at side.
(By Copley.)
of
Henry Laurens.
(By Copley.)

Of New York
in the eighteenth
century
in the journals of visitors or in private
we
read:
"Whether
correspondence,
it
we always
be
get
the impression of a lively and

cheerful town, where people like
to
come and from which they
are
sorry to go away.
old
days,
In the
restful sense of leisure
which the
pace of modern
rapid
was a
indeed, there
,has
life
ruthlessly destroyed."*
Although the
style of living in
New York was
comfort-
able, with little display,
when we
colonial
come
to the subject of dress,
was very
find the case
we
different.
Early in the eighteenth century

the streets of New
York were gor-
geous with elaborate costumes.
Gay
masculine garments are
described in inventories: Green

silk breeches,
ver
and
flowered with
gold,
silver
sil-
gauze
breeches, yellow fringed gloves,
lacquered hats, laced shirts and

neck-cloths.
From 1760 to 1770, gentlemen in Massachusetts were wearing
"hats
with
up
into
turned
broad
three
brims
corners
with loops at the sides;

coats
with
large
Figure 328.
Working Garb, Middle Eighteenth Century,

i7S-
long
pocket-folds
and
cuffs,
and
* Dutch and Quaker Colonies, by Fiske.
without
collars.

(Figures 327 and
sometimes of
bosom and
The
334.)
wrist ruffles;
and
by a
link.
at the wrist united
commonly
buttons were
wore gold or
all
The
pockets; and the neckcloth or scarf
plated, but
a half-dollar.
often as large as
silver,
Shirts
waistcoat was long, with large
was
of fine white linen or figured
The
broidered and the ends hanging loosely on the breast.
stuff
The
breeches fitted close, with silver buckles at the knees.
were
covered
with
gray
equipment."*
century
silver
attention
and
exists in the letters
much
so
to
the
during the eighteenth
on hand, they should have
abundant
but
fashion,
diaries of the
legs
holidays
buckles, completed
that,
fighting
dress and
on
Boots with broad white
silk.
and large
seems strange indeed
It
when men had
such
paid
straps
which
stockings
knitted
were exchanged for black or white

tops, or shoes with
had
silver shirt-buttons
day that every
proof
detail, the
width
of the cuff, the length of the cravat, the size even of the button-holes,
was
to the masculine
mind a matter
the sword knot received as
much
of grave import.
Apparently
attention as the sword.
Even "the
greatest American," in his youthful days, paid exact attention to details.
"Memorandum: To have my coat made by

to be made a frock with the lapel breast,
tions;
on each side
all
six button-holes,
the way, equal,
made
and
and
to
be about
The
the lapel to contain
five
or six inches wide
to turn as the breast of the coat does, to
very long waisted and in length to come
of the knee.
the following direc-
down below
have
it
the bend
waist from the arm-pit to the fold to be exactly as
long or longer than from thence to the bottom, not to have more than
one
fold in the skirt
and the top
to
be made to turn
in,
and three
button-holes, the laps at the top to turn as the cape of the coat,
and bottom
to
come
parallel with the button-holes, the last button-
hole in the breast to be right opposite to the button on the hip."t
At
this time
Washington was only a boy
of fifteen.
* History of Lynn, Mass., by Lewis and Newhall.

t
The
writings of George Washington, edited
by W. C. Ford.
Portrait of John Hancock, Governor of the Massachusetts Colony,

329.
showing coat with a turned-down collar and double pocket-flaps, reign of
Figure
George
Figure
III.
Portrait
330.
wig, and his son,
Samuel Shoemaker, Mayor of Philadelphia, in a bobhis natural hair long on the shoulders and cut in a
bang across the forehead (from a
straight
Figure 331.
of
who wears
portrait painted in 1789).
Showing the plain but handsome costume of a
gentleman in Penn-
sylvania at the outbreak of the Revolution.
Figure 332.
Showing
vania, 1774.
a cocked hat worn by a Quaker gentleman of Pennsyl-
Figure
32g.
Figure
330.
We
learn that English tradesmen were apt to take advantage of
their colonial customers,
and that Washington had occasion
him from London
against things being sent to
and
We give
inferior in quality.
"And
here gentlemen,
this year all of
which are
For many years
hand.
ported goods from
September 28th,
760
cannot forbear ushering in a complaint
my
of the exorbitant prices of
his letter of
to protest
that were unfashionable
to
goods
come
to
have im-
London
as well as
other ports of Britain, and can truly
say I never had such a penny-worth

before.
to
It
would be a needless task
enumerate every
article that I
cause to except against. Let

to
are
price,
far
have
suffice
woolens, linnens, nails,
say that
etc.,
it
mean
in quality but not in
for in this they excel indeed,
above any
have ever had.
"Let us beseech you gentlemen
to
give the necessary directions for pur-
chasing of them upon the best terms.

needless for
It is
the
sorts,
me
to particularize,
quality or
choose to have them

observed.
when
I tell
taste I
in,
And you may
would
unless
believe
it is
me
you that instead of getting
Figure
333.
Sporting Dress, Middle Eighteenth Century (after Highmore).
things good and fashionable in their

several kinds,
we
often have articles sent us that could only have been
used by our forefathers in the days of yore,

reason to believe with
'tis
a custom
many shopkeepers and tradesmen
when they know goods
are bespoke for exportation, to
have some
in
London,
palm some-
times old and sometimes very slight and indifferent goods upon us,
328
taking care at the same time to advance 10, 15 or perhaps 20 per

cent,
My
upon them.
not yet
come
to
packages, per the
Polly,'
'
Capt. Hooper, are
hand, and the Lord only knows when they will
without more trouble than they are worth."
According to Fairholt, the costume of the ordinary classes during
was exceedingly
the greater part of the eighteenth century

consisting of a plain coat, buttoned
up the
front,
simple,
a long waistcoat
reaching to the knees, but having capacious pockets with great over-
lapping
flaps,
a plain bobwig, a hat slightly turned up, and high
quartered shoes.
We read that, in
and twenty years
closely
as
1746, flat cocked hats were
later,
woven, and looking
we would
like
rough knap; and their "small clothes,"
and
striped ticken breeches,
The
heavy coats of gray duroy.
leathern breeches
boys were made without any opening
and
all
if
of
any signs of wear appeared.
Aprons
changed
of leather
tradesmen and workingmen.
man named William Davis who robbed
its
in winter
and, according to Watson,
flaps,
In a paper of 1771, a reward of ten pounds

of a
and
worn by men and
free in girth that the wearers ordinarily
the rear to the front
were used by
Labouring men wore
and not extending below them.
ticklenberg linen for shirts,
full
sailors,
say now, were immense wide petticoat-breeches, open
at the knees,
were so
worn by English
hats of glazed leather or of woolen thrums,
hangings and had a green coat
made
is
offered for the arrest
the church at Wilmington
of them.
Green was very
fashionable at this period.
AFTER THE REVOLUTION

At
his second inauguration, in Philadelphia, 1793,
costume was " a

302, "his hair
light
full suit of
Washington's
black velvet," cut in the fashion of Figure
powdered and
in a bag;
sword with gray scabbard.
diamond knee buckles and a
Behind him was
Jefferson, gaunt,
ungainly, square-shouldered, with foxy hair, dressed in a blue coat,
Digitized by
Google
Figure
334.
suit of velvet
Clermont Manor,
Figure
Figure
Figure
Figure
New
with raised figures, worn by Robert Livingston of
York, 1770.
with
mounting, about 1765.
336. Cap worn by Governor Taylor of New York, about 1730.
trimmed with shaded brown ribbon,
337. A waistcoat of buff
338. A double-breasted waistcoat of figured
1790.
335.
Pistols
silver
silk
silk,
1780.

small clothes, and vest of crimson
and
burly, bustling
not
Knox."
is
scribed.
Adams was
fine
full
33i
near by was pale, reflective Madison
Unfortunately for us, their dress on that
de-
occasion
clad in a
suit of
gray cloth.
Powder, worn for

a hundred years, went
out of fashion in 1794,
but the hair was
worn
still
a queue tied
in
with a black ribbon.
The
following
list
of a gentleman's outfit
gives
an
insight into a
wardrobe
fashionable
at this time:
"A
coloured
light
broadcloth
with
coat,
pearl buttons; breeches

of
same cloth;
the
ditto,
black satin
swansdown
striped
ditto,
ditto,
satin
vest,
buff
chequer
skin
molefigure;
figured;
ditto, Marseilles white;

ditto,
muslinet figured
red
figure 339.
undervest, faced with
WorkinSm*n
in the Last HaIf of the Ei 8 hteenth Century

cassimere; two
ditto,
ditto;
flannel;
one pair of flannel drawers;
one pair black patent
silk hose;
one
ditto;
one
ditto;
cotton
white ditto;
one

ten or a dozen white silk hose;
striped ditto;
ditto;
three pair of
cotton hose; four pair of gauze ditto; twelve neckerchiefs; six pocket
handkerchiefs, one of
a pair of
men became
Coats for
were worn
them a bandanna; a chintz dressing gown;
old kid ditto."
silk gloves;
more
fitting
were cut away
and
shorter in the waist
The
closely to the figure.
and were quite long
all
the garments
the coats
tails of
in the back.
Although
a few people might have been seen wearing cocked hats
after 1800,
in front
low-crowned straight-brimmed hat came into fashion
soft,
At that time waistcoats were cut low over
worn around the neck,
stocks were
in 1794.
ruffled shirt fronts.
Soft
bow and ends
finished with a
under the chin.

Inventory of the wearing apparel of a gentleman in Connecticut
at the
end of the eighteenth century:

I
Great Coat
do do
3 pr.
&
Linen Shirts
Black Coat
4 pr. Worcested
Common do
4 Linen
Old Coats
2 pr. plaited do
4 pr. black Breeches

s pr. velveteen
do
&
do
Morning Gown
pr. black silk
buff
pocket Handkerchiefs
velvet do,
Eider
down do
1 pr.
plaid
Gown
7 waistcoats
Coatee
pr.
1 pr.
White waistcoat
Woolen Hose
Boots
2 pr.
4 pr. Shoes
I
Gingham Trowsers
3 Neck handkfs.
2 Hats
7
Hose
Cotton do
3 pr. Cotton breeches
3 worcested waistcoats
Old Breeches
16 Cotton
pr. overalls
Under Waistcoats
leather mittens
woolen do
pr.
pr. linen
and
leather Gloves
great-coat of blue camlet with several short capes, long of waist
and large of button, was the popular garment
in
severe weather.
Trousers of leather and leggings of deer-skin supplemented the coat

as a protection against storms.
An
extra pair of stocking legs well
tucked into the low shoes was a homely substitute for leggings, and
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overshoes of
very heavy leather were sometimes worn
over the
ordinary shoes.
LEGAL DRESS IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

Martin mentions a portrait of James Logan as Chief Justice of
him
the Province of Pennsylvania which represents
The
and wig.
the portrait.
original colour of the
In shape
have been worn
in
gown, bands,
in
hard to determine
is
represents an academic gown, and
more than one
many
colonist played
it
gown
in
may
capacity, as that distinguished
The
parts in his day.
dignified
garment
in
question would equally become the governor and the chief justice.
(Figure 323.)
In his diary, under date of 1787, Manasseh Cutler, describing a

visit to
the State House, says:
"In
Courts are held and
this Hall the
The Supreme
as you pass the aisle you have a full view of the Court.
Court was now

Their robes are
This bench consists of only three judges.
sitting.
The
scarlet, the lawyers' black.
with his hat on, which
sitting
is
Chief Judge
McKean
me
as being
the custom, but struck
very odd and seemed to derogate from the dignity of a judge."*
Among other customs

fession
is
the practice
brought over from England by the legal pro-
still
in
use of carrying briefs and papers in bags.
"Lawyers' bags," an English authority

tively recent date, green,
bars carried red bags.
asserts,
Chancery
juniors,
to carry blue bags, etiquette forbidding
same colour as
"were, until a compara-
but leaders of the chancery and

it is
them
stated,
to carry
of the
When
court,
the
Supreme Court
it
was the
to Harrisburg
of the citizens of the place
(1777-78) to hold
as many as two hundred
* Life, Journab and Correspondence of Rev. Manassah Cutler, LL.D.
* The
cus-
to hold sessions in the various counties.
Supreme Court came
numbers
bags of the
their leaders." f
In those days (latter half of the eighteenth century)
tom
common law
were permitted
King's Peace, by Inderwick.
336
people at a time
them
escort
would go out on horseback
to town.
The sheriff with his rod
Figure
A
officers
to
meet the judges and
of office
and other public
345.
Doctor of Civil Law, End of the Eighteenth Century (from an Old Print).
and members
of the bar
would attend on the occasion, and
each morning while the Chief Justice was in town the
sheriff
and
Figure 346. A summer coat of dark-blue changeable silk with nankeen breeches,
worn late in the eighteenth century.
Figure 347. Back view of a brown broadcloth coat, worn by a Quaker gentleman in Germantown about 1790.
Figure 348. Front view of same suit over a nankeen waistcoat.
Figure 349. A coat of brown twilled cotton woin by a Quaker gentleman of
Germantown a white silk embroidered waistcoat and brown satin knee breeches
worn in Philadelphia about 1790.
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constables escorted
him from
was dressed
the bench, he sat with his hat on and
A
the
"
Grand Federal Procession
Fourth of
July,
McKean
the
Constitution,
in his robes of
and
office,
Court
Judge
on
a scarlet gown.
described
in
it
at
length
great ship
in
the
on wheels
was seated Chief
Justice
and the judges of the Supreme
Figure
is
1788.
9,
in
When
took place in Philadelphia on
"
which
1788,
"Pennsylvania Gazette," July

represented
339
his lodgings to the court-room.
350.
Robe, End of the Eighteenth Century (from an Old Print).
in Scarlet
in their robes of office.
Had
there been
any decided change
prescribed for the robes of the judges and lawyers in the framing
of the Constitution
it
would have surely been emphasized
procession, but as a matter of fact
among
in
the
the printed articles in
Congress on the subject of the Judiciary, not a word regarding robes

or etiquette
hangs
is
in the
given.
Law
The
portrait of Chief Justice
McKean, which
School of the University of Pennsylvania, depicts
340
him
in
a scarlet gown.
It is
the direction of the family.

evidently
States,
The
1789.
Figure 325.
black
The
portrait, but
to
full-length portrait of
that
him
office
was
America.
by Washington
office
in his
robe
is
According to a contemporary authority,
in
reproduced in
this
robe
is
the
facings of salmon-coloured satin with a white
edge, given with his degree of Doctor of

versity
in
Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the
first
was appointed
gown with
silk
was painted under
red robe of the English Court
worn throughout the eighteenth century
John Jay, the

United
a recent
and worn by the Chief
Laws by Columbia Uni-
Justice during the term of his high
under the Government.*
UNIFORMS IN AMERICA
1775-1800
The
history of the
American Navy, according
to
good authority,
dates from the twenty-second of December, 1775, and the history

of
its
uniform from the
Committee
fifth of
September, 1776, when the Marine
of the Continental Congress
tions regarding
Captains A blue coat with red

collar, flat
made
the following regula-
it:
lapels, slashed cuffs,
a stand-up
yellow buttons, blue breeches and a red waistcoat with
yellow lace.
Lieutenants A blue coat with red lapels and round

a stand-up
collar,
cuffs faced,
yellow buttons, blue breeches, and a plain red
waistcoat.
MastersA blue
coat with lapels, round cuffs, blue breeches, and
a red waistcoat.
Midshipmen A
red,
blue coat with lapels, round cuffs faced with
a stand-up collar, red at the buttons and buttonholes, blue
breeches,
and a red waistcoat.

* Life and
Works
of Gilbert Stuart.
Marines
on the
green coat faced with white, round cuffs, slashed
and pockets, with buttons round the
sleeves
34i
cuffs,
silver epaulet
right shoulder, skirts turned back, buttons to suit the facings,
white waistcoat, breeches edged with green, black gaiters and garters.
The men were

shirts
have green
to
they could be procured.
if
Common
and seamen
sailors
wore loose breeches and short

square-cut jackets, according to
Watson and other
authorities.
(Figure 351.)
The
troops
British
lished in
estab-
America had been kept
continually
on the
alert at dif-
ferent points to protect
the in-
habitants from the dreaded onslaught of the
but a
Indians,
time of comparative quiet gave

the
commanders an opportunity
to observe
a certain hostile
This new
toward the soldiery.

phase of feeling
in the
was duly mentioned

despatches,
but
atti-
had evinced
tude the citizens
was
heeded that England
Colonies
in
official
so
felt
little
a slight
Figure
shock of alarm at the news of the
351.
Dress of an Ordinary Seaman, 1775.
bold measures of the colonists in
Boston
in 1768,
manifest in
and the spreading discontent which was becoming
all directions.
a force "sufficient
General Gage was ordered
to assist the magistrates
enforcing the law."
in
June
and revenue
to send
officers in
Under Colonel Dalrymple the 14th and 29th
34?
Foot* and one company of artillery with
demanded quarters in
and Gage,
guns arrived
five
feeling the throbbing pulse of rebellion,
mand and found
Boston and
withdrew the com-
quarters for the troops at the King's expense.
Shortly
and 65th regiments were sent as reinforcements,
after this the 64th
but they were not able to

every spare
at
the town, which the citizens flatly refused to grant,
moment
to
awe
the
"mob
of Boston,"
practise the skill thus acquired under their leader,
which resulted
in the riots of 1770,
The
battalions from the city.
which devoted
They found an opportunity
drilling.
in the
to
Samuel Adams,
withdrawal of both British
tax on tea and
its
consequences on
the sixteenth of December, 1773, proved a harbinger of the coming
Gage returned from a
trouble.
visit
to
England, where his chief
object had been to explain the tension of affairs in America, with
more troops and the

setts.
title
of
Governor of the Province of Massachu-
Ten thousand men were
the twenty thousand asked for
then ordered to America instead of
by Gage.
Meanwhile the Provincial Congress had met

passed resolutions for
the
collection
and General Gage, hearing that a quantity

nition
had been stored
garrison
forever
to
seize
memorable
in
at Concord,
American
of
Cambridge and
of
arms,
powder and ammu-
sent the flank
This was the
it.
at
and manufacture
nineteenth
company
of
April,
of
his
1775,
history.
The
Paul Revere's gallant ride had not been in vain.
British troops
found a body of militia drawn up on the village green at Concord

to protect the stores,
and
after a fierce skirmish the
obliged to retreat, followed for about fifteen miles
whose numbers were augmented

in
homespun."
This
battle of
of the Continental army,
Congress.
* For the
The
Lexington brings us to the organization
these British
Richards, with coloured plates.
Provincials,
on the road by "patriots
which was strongly urged by the Provincial
militia troops
uniforms of
at every point
Redcoats were
by the
before Boston
regiments, see
had already shown
Her Majesty's Army, by Walter
Figure
352.
Portrait
of Washington,
Portrait
of
drawn from
life,
showing hair in
pigtail
queue.
Figure
353.
side puffs
Figure
354.
and
Henry Laurens,
Jr.,
drawn from
life,
showing hair
in
pigtail queue.
Portrait of
W. H.
Drayton, Esq., drawn from
life,
showing hair
arranged in puff on top and queue.

hair
and queue.
of Gouverneur Morris,
drawn from
life,
showing smooth

good metal
in their composition ;
The
and Indian War.
many of them had fought in the French
Continental
army began
to drill
and manoeuvre
with redoubled energy, although in the eyes of the British army "their
equipment was
and
deficient
Contemporary
their discipline very faulty indeed."
letters written
from Boston before the Revolution
give a vivid picture of the situation.
"The
people in England have been taught to believe that five
or six thousand regular troops would be sufficient to
humble us
into
the lowest submission to any parliamentary act, however tyrannical.
But we are not so ignorant
in military affairs
and unskilled
in the
A spirit for martial skill has strangely

throughout at least the New England
use of arms as they take us to be.
catched from one to another
A number
colonies.
of
companies
in
many
dexterity
and a
been sent to
better grace than
us,
and
all
our
some
towns are already
of our
able to go through the military exercises in
all its
forms with more
of the regiments
men from twenty
which have
to sixty years of age
are either formed or forming into companies and regiments with

officers of their
It
art.
is
own
choosing, to be steadily tutored in the military
not doubted but by next spring one hundred thousand
men
will
and
rights should there
be well qualified to come forth for the defense of our
be a
call for
it.
We
England Colonies alone a number of men who,
made
liberties
in the
New
in the last war,
were
have besides
regulars by their services over your troops
now
in Boston.
cannot help observing to you here that we have in this town a company
of boys
from about ten to fourteen years of age who
of the best judges
can go
thro' the
in the
opinion
whole military exercises with more
dexterity than a great part of the regulars have been able to
do
since
they have been here."*
An
Minute
interesting description of the dress
Men
is
and arms
of the
famous
given in the History of Woodbury, f
* Extract from a letter of Charles Chauncey to Richard Price, Boston, January 10, 1775.
Massachusetts Historical Society Proceedings, Boston, 1903.
t History of Ancient
Woodbury, Connecticut, by William Cothren.
346
"As
the militia rallied on the several calls and detachments, at a
minute's or an hour's warning, in whatever clothes they happened

to
have on, with whatever weapons of war came
had descended
to
them from
They wore
very grotesque appearance.
and fastening
shoes,
just
first
to hand, or
their fathers, they often presented
small-clothes,
coming down
below the knee, and long stockings with cowhide
ornamented by large buckles, while not a pair of boots graced
The
the company.
and waistcoats were loose and of huge
coats
dimensions, with colours as various as the barks of the oak, sumach,
and other
shirts
trees of
were
our
made
all
were homespun.
broad-brimmed
and swamps could make them, and
hills
their
of flax, and, like every other part of the dress,
On
their
heads were worn large round-top and
Their arms were as various as
hats.
their costumes;
here and there an old soldier carried a heavy queen's arm, with which
he had done service

vious, while
not half
at
its
by
Canada, twenty years pre-
at the conquest of
his side
walked a
stripling
boy with a Spanish
fuzee,
may have
taken
weight or calibre, which his grandfather
Havana, while not a few had old French
to the reduction of Louisburg.
pieces, that
dated back
Instead of the cartridge-box, a large
powder-horn was slung under the arm, and occasionally a bayonet

might be seen
officers
some farming
couth.
Some
of the swords of the
utensil;
they looked serviceable, but heavy and un-
Such was the appearance of the Continentals,
well-appointed
It is
bristling in the ranks.
had been made by our province blacksmiths, perhaps from
army was soon
more than
to lay
down
their
likely that the hardest fighting of the
Revolution was done by
men
leather, with leather breeches
to
whom
arms."
war
of the
dressed in hunting shirts of dressed
and buckskin
shoes.
At Bunker
Hill
the British regiments engaged were the flank companies of the 4th,
10th, 18th, 22nd, 23rd, 35th, 59th, 63rd,
of the 5th, 38th, 42nd, 47th,

History
and 65th, the
entire strength
and 52nd, and two battalions of marines;*
of the British
Army, by
J.
W.
Fortescue.
Figure
Figure
356.
357.
Silhouette of John Randolph of Roanoke.

Silhouette of Washington, showing net over the hair and queue.
fine
(Reproduced through the kindness of Dr.
S.
Weir Mitchell, who owns one of
the few copies of this portrait.)
Figure
lish
358.
A silhouette of Bishop White in the knickerbockers worn by Eng-
churchmen.
Figure 359. Silhouette of Alexander Hamilton.

Figure 360. A silhouette of James McClellan of Connecticut, showing the queue
worn in the last year of the eighteenth century.
349
these men, in the splendid uniforms of the British regulars, formed
striking
contrast
had
unanimously
chosen
Commander-in-Chief
Army, July
tinental
command
company
sorted
and
for
the
of the
Con-
ginia,
Continentals.
General
1775, took
2,
before Boston,
thousand
later of the three
men from
oddly dressed
been
strangely as-
the
of
the
to
who
Washington,
Pennsylvania,
Vir-
and Maryland.
few of the provincial
regi-
ments were equipped with uniforms, notably the
New
Jersey
Infantry, under Colonel Schuyler,
which went by the name of
the Jersey Blues, from their coats

of blue cloth faced with red gray
;
stockings and buckskin breeches
completed
Washington was
the
Whig
The
costume.
the
Infantry,
Virginia
of
which
colonel, adopted
colours, blue
and
buff;
coats of dark blue faced with buff,
with waistcoats and breeches of
This was Washington's
buff.
uniform when he took
army
the
of
(July,
.
command
Cambridge.
Figure 361.
Uniform of the Light-Horse Troop of Phila-
775-)
From
First
at
the
"History of the
delphia.
Troop City Cavalry," which on many occasions had
the honour
of escorting the Commander-in-Chief, the following account
is
taken:

"Uniform of the Light-Horse of the City of Philadelphia. *
"A
vest
dark brown short coat, faced and lined with white;
and breeches; high-topped boots; round black

a buck's
silver cord;
of pistols
tail;
and
holsters,
white
bound with
housings brown, edged with white, and
H. worked on them."
the letters L.
hat,
And arms: "A
carbine, a pair
with flounces of brown cloth trimmed with
white; a horseman's sword; white belts for the sword and carbine."
In the early part of this year (1775), Captain
Troop a handsome
to the
silken standard.
interest as being the first flag
which bore upon
It
it
Markoe presented
is
of great historic
the thirteen stripes,
symbolizing the thirteen colonies then asserting their rights and

ultimately struggling for their independence.
Its first recorded
brought the Troop early into the notice of General Washington,

passed through Philadelphia June
the
Troop as
far as
New
23,
1775,
duty
who
and was escorted by
York, on his journey to the camp at Cam-
bridge, Massachusetts.
In order that reliable descriptions of the uniforms worn by the

soldiers
official
from 1775
to 1800
may be
had, extracts from contemporary
papers, reprinted under the supervision of the Quartermaster-
General of the United States (Washington, 1895), are quoted verbatim.

Resolved.
and one
That
thirteen thousand coats be provided
thereof be given
to
each non-commissioned Officer and
Soldier of the Massachusetts forces.
That each coat be faced with the same kind of cloth of

made; that the coats be made in the common, plain way,
(Proceedings of Massawithout lappels, short and with small folds.
Resolved.
which
it is
chusetts Provincial Congress, July
Resolved.
are to cause
5,
That the Committee

all
1775.)
of Supplies
the coats to be buttoned with pewter buttons,
and that
same
the coats for each Regiment, respectively, have buttons of the

Afterwards known as First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry.
Figure
Figure
Figure
362.
363.
364.
A portrait of Commodore Barry of the United States Navy.

Portrait of Paul Jones, Commodore of the United States Navy.
cloak and
Picture of the Camp at Valley Forge, showing
great coat
soldiers.
military-
worn by the
officers
and the Dutch blankets worn by the private

number stamped on
the face of them.
(Amer. Archives, Vol.
II,
4th
series, p. i486.)
To
prevent mistakes the General Officers and their Aids de
be distinguished in the following manner:
will
Camp
The Commander-in-
Chief by a light blue ribband, worn across his breast, between his
the Majors
and Brigadiers General by a pink

Camp by a green ribband.
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, July 14, 1775.) (Amer.
coat and waistcoat;
ribband worn in like manner; the Aids de

Archives, Vol. II, 4th series, p. 1662.)
every Major of Brigade will be distin-
guished
by
green
ribband
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, July 20, 1775.)
(Amer.
Archives, Vol. II, 4th series, p. 17 10.)
As
the Continental
consequently
many
Army have
unfortunately no uniforms, and
inconveniences must arise from not being able
always to distinguish the commissioned Officers from the non-commissioned, and, the non-commissioned from the privates,
that
some badges
of distinction
instance, that the field Officers
it is
desired
may be immediately provided; for

may have red or pink colored cock-
ades in their hats; the Captains yellow or buff, and the subalterns
green.
The
of
sergeants
may
be distinguished by an epaulette or stripe
red cloth sewed upon their right
one of green.
*775-) (Amer. Archives, Vol.

It
shoulders;
the Corporals
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge,

II,
by
23 July,
4th series, 1775, p. 1738.)
being thought proper to distinguish
the
Majors from the
some particular mark, for the future the

Majors General will wear a broad purple ribband. (Gen. Orders,
Headquarters, Cambridge, 24 July, 1775.) (Amer. Archives, Vol. II,
Brigadiers General by
4th
series, 1775, p. 1739.)
The General
also
recommends
boots or leggings for their men,
it
to the Colonels to provide
instead
of
stockings,
Indian

especially as the General has hopes of prevailing with the Continental
man
Congress to give each
a hunting shirt
(General Orders, Headquarters, Cambridge, August
7,
(Amer.
1775.)
Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th series, p. 248.)
The
enlisted
men
of the 1st Virginia
Regiment of Infantry were,
however, in the year 1775, uniformed at their own expense in hunting

{Amer. Archives,
shirts, leggings, and white bindings on their hats.
Vol. IV, 4th series, p. 92.)
That when the Green Mountain Boys are raised, each

be
be furnished with a coat, and
purchase green cloth for that purpose, and red cloth
(New York
face these coats
Resolved.
them
of
shall
requested to
sufficient
to
Prov.
Congress, Aug. 15,
series,
p 530.)
Resolved.
1775.)
(Amer. Archives, Vol.
That Clothing be provided
for the
Ill,
new Army by
4th
the
Continent and paid for by stoppages out of the soldiers wages
That as much as possible of the cloth for this purpose be dyed brown
and the distinctions of the Regiments made in the facings. (Res. Con(Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th series, p. 1907.)
gress, Nov. 4, 1775.)
The
Colonels upon the
new establishment
to settle as soon as
possible with the Quartermaster General the uniform of their respective
Regiments that the buttons may
work
finished without delay.
bridge,
It is
Nov.
13, 1775.)
recommended
be properly numbered and the
(General Orders, Headquarters,
(Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 4th

to those
Cam-
series.)
Corps which are not already supplied
with uniforms, to provide hunting shirts for their men. (General

(Amer. Archives,
Orders, Headquarters, New York, May 6, 1776.)
Vol. VI, 4th series, p. 426.)
The General
being sensible of the difficulty and expense of pro-
viding Clothes, of almost any kind, for the Troops, feels an unwilling-
ness to recommend,
much more
to order,
any kind of Uniform; but
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as
it is
absolutely necessary that
decent and
made
with long breeches

legs,
men
should have Clothes, and appear
he earnestly encourages the use of Hunting
tight,
of the
same
to all those yet unprovided.
New York, July 24,
cloth, gaiter fashion
Shirts,
about the
1776.) (Amer. Archives, Vol.
I,
5th series, p. 677.)
Resolved that, for the further encouragement of the non-commis-
sioned Officers and soldiers

war.
suit of
who
shall
engage in service during the
Clothes be annually given to each of said officers and
soldiers; to consist, for the present year, of
two linen hunting
shirts,
two
pairs of overalls, a leathern or woolen waistcoat with sleeves, one pair

of breeches,
a hat or leather cap, two
pair of shoes.
two pair of hose and two
shirts,
(Continental Congress, Oct.
8,
1776.)
(Amer. Archives,
Vol. II, 5th series, p. 1392.)
the Congress of the United States have
further resolved to give
complete
suit of clothing,
two linen hunting
shirts,
annually to each
which, for the present year,
is
two pair of stockings, two pair
man one
to consist of
of shoes,
two
pair of overalls, a leathern or woolen jacket with sleeves, one pair of
breeches,
and one Leathern cap or hat. (General Orders, Headquarters,
October
24, 1776.)
(Amer. Archives, Vol. Ill, 5th
series, p. 331.)
In 1 777, and subsequently, the uniform for the four regular regiments
was a blue or black coat reaching to
constituting the Corps of Artillery
the knee,
and
full
trimmed, lappels fastened back, with ten open-worked
button-holes in yellow silk on the breast of each lappel, and ten large
regimental yellow buttons, at equal distances, on each side;

large yellow
regimental buttons on each cuff, and a like
three
number
on each pocket-flap. The skirts to hook back, showing the red

lining, bottom of coat cut square, red lappels, cuff linings, and
standing capes;
single-breasted white waistcoat, with
twelve small
yellow regimental buttons, white breeches, black half gaiters, white
and at the wrists, and black cocked hat bound

plume and black cockade, gilt-handled small sword
epaulettes.
(Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 473.)
stock, ruffled shirt,
with yellow;
and
gilt
red
358
Congress, by resolution of
March
23, 1779,
"authorized and di-
rected the Commander-in-Chief, according to circumstances of sup-
and prescribe the uniform as well with regard

and facings as the cut or fashion of the Clothes to be worn
by the troops of the respective States and regiments, woolen overalls
for winter and linen for summer to be substituted for the breeches."
plies of Clothing, to fix
to color
In accordance with the above Resolution, the following General

Order, dated Headquarters, Moore's House, 2 Oct., 1779, was promulgated by General Washington:
"The
following are the uniforms that have been determined for
the troops of these States respectively, so soon as the state of the

public supplies will permit of their being furnished accordingly; and,
meantime, it is recommended to the Officers to endeavor to

accommodate their uniforms to the standard, that when the men
come to be supplied, there may be a proper uniformity.
in the
New
Hampshire,
Rhode Island and Con-
Massachusetts,
necticut.
Blue, faced with white
buttons and linings white.
New York
Blue, faced with buff
and
New
Jersey.
white linings and buttons.
Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia.

Blue, faced with red
buttons and linings white.
North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia.

Blue, faced with blue;
buttonholes edged with narrow white lace
or tape; buttons and linings white.
Artillery and Artillery Artificers.

Blue, faced with scarlet;
scarlet linings;
yellow buttons, yellow-
bound hats. Coats edged with narrow lace or

bound with same.
Light Dragoons.
The whole
blue, faced with white;
tape,
and buttonholes
white buttons and linings."
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Resolved.
That
361
the following articles be delivered as a suit of
Clothes for the current and every succeeding year of their service
to the Officers of the line
and
Congress to receive the same,

coat, four vests,
pair of Shoes.
As
it is
one
entitled
hat,
by any Resolution of
one watch
coat,
one body
one for winter and three for summer, four pairs of
breeches, two for winter

of stockings,
staff,
viz:
and two
summer, four shirts, six pair

and three of thread, four
Congress, Nov. 25, 1779.)
for
three pair thereof worsted
(Journals of
at all times of great
importance both for the sake of appear-
ance and for the regularities of service that the different military
ranks should be distinguished from each other, and more especially
at present:
The Commander-in-Chief has

following distinctions and strongly
to
thought proper to establish the
recommends
it
to all the Officers
endeavor to conform to them as speedily as possible.
The Major Generals
to
wear a blue coat with buff
facings, yellow
buttons, white or buff underclothes, two epaulettes, with two stars
upon each and a black-and-white feather in the hat.

The Brigadier Generals, the same uniform as the Major Generals
with the difference of one star instead of two and a white feather.
The Colonels, Lieutenant Colonels, and Majors, the uniform of
their regiments, and two epaulettes.
The Captains, the uniforms of their regiments and an epaulette
on the right shoulder.
The subalterns, the uniform of their regiment and an epaulette
on the left shoulder.
The Aides de Camp, the uniforms of their ranks and Corps, or
if they belong to no Corps, of their General Officers.
Those of the Major Generals and Brigadier Generals to have a
green feather in their hat. Those of the Commander-in-Chief a white
and green.
The Inspectors, as well Sub as Brigade, the uniform of their ranks
and Corps, with a blue feather in the hat.
The Corps of Engineers and that of Sappers and Miners, a blue
coat with buff facings, red lining, buff undercloaths, and the epaulettes
of their respective ranks.
Such of the Staff as have Military rank, to wear the uniform of

ranks and of the Corps to which they belong in the line. Such
as have no military rank to wear plain coats, with a cockade and
their
sword.
All officers, as well warrant as commissioned, to
side
arms
either a
Sunday, June
Hills,
As
it
is
sword or genteel bayonet.

18, 1780.)
much wished
to establish uniformity in the corps;
officers are directed not to
selves or their
The
men
wear a cockade and
(Headquarters, Short
'till
make any changes
orders are given for a general rule.
feathers directed to be
worn by Major Generals are
the white below, the black above;

the upper part black.
the
them-
in the dress of
It
is
it
will
to
have
be best to have one feather
recommended
to the officers to
black and white cockades, a black ground with a white

blematic of the expected union of the two armies.
relief,
have
em-
(Headquarters,
Precaness, July 19, 1780.)
As nothing adds more
to the beauty
and appearance
than exact uniformity of dress, the General recommends

to the "Field Officers" newly arranged to fix
of a Corps,
it
thus early
upon a fashion
regimental clothing of the officers of their respective corps
for the
(if
it
is
not already done), confining themselves to the ground, facing, linings
and buttons already assigned
The General
to the States to
which they belong.

which the Officers
sees with concern the difficulties
labor under in procuring Cloth.
It is not therefore his
wish that
who are already furnished should run themselves to the expense

new uniforms, if their old are not exactly conformable, but that
those
of
they should
and,
if
in future
comply
strictly
with the regimental fashion
possible, get their old clothes altered to
it.
It
has a very odd
appearance especially to Foreigners to see the same corps of

each differing from the other
officers
in fashion of the facings, sleeves
and
pockets of their coats.
An
attention to these minutiae has been thought proper in all
it becomes peculiarly so in ours at this time as we shall

more than probable take the field next campaign in conjunction with
services;
Figure 376. A
Figure 377. A
Figure 378. A
Figure 379. -A
portrait of
Major-General Pinckney
portrait of
Major-General
St.
Clair,
portrait of General
O. H. Williams,
portrait of General
Andrew
Pickens.
365
composed of the first troops in Europe, who

impressions and form opinions from the first view
our
Allies,
Strict attention is to
be paid to the order of the 18th of June
distinguishing the rank of officers by their badges.
Totoway, Nov.
will receive
last,
(Headquarters,
15, 1780.)
ORDERS FOR THE MASSACHUSETTS
LINE.
January
The Committee
5th,
1781.
upon the fashion of

the Massachusetts' uniform, have reported thereupon, and it is as
of Officers appointed to fix
follows:
The
color of the coats, waistcoat, linings
and buttons,
to
be agree-
able to the General Orders of the 2nd of October, 1779.
The
length of the coat, to the upper part of the knee-pan, and
As
to be cut high in the neck.

of the coat; or divide the
take 5 for the waist and 3 for the
The
bottom
is
to 5, so is the skirt to the waist
whole length of the coat into 8 equal parts,

skirts.
lappel, at the top of the breast, to

2t?t inches;
its
wing
an inch of the shoulder seam with a small button
to button within
on the cape.
be 3 inches wide, and the
the lappel to be as low as the waist, and
The
epaulette to be
worn
directly
on the top of the
shoulder joint on the same button with the wing of the lappel.
round and close

tonholes.
cuff, three
The cape
in proportion to the
inches wide, with four close worked but-
made with a peak behind, and its width

lappels.
The pocket flaps to be scollopped, four
to be
buttonholes, the two inner close worked, the two outer open worked,
and
to be set
on
in
a curved line from the bottom of the lappel to
the button on the hip.
The
coat to be cut full behind, with a fold
on each back skirt, and two close worked buttonholes on each.

Ten open worked buttonholes on the breast of each lappel, with
ten large buttons, at equal distance;
four large buttons on each cuff,
Those on the cuffs

and pocket flaps to be placed agreeable to the buttonholes; and those
on the folds, one on the hip, one at the bottom, and two in the centre,
at an equal distance with those on the lappel.
The coat is to button
or hook as low at the fourth buttonhole on the breast, and is to be
four on each pocket flap, and four on each fold.
366
bottom with a genteel and military air. Four hooks

and eyes on the breast as low as the coat is allowed to button. The
skirts to hook up with a blue heart at each corner, with such device
flaunt at the
The bottoms
as the Field Officers of each Regiment shall direct.

of the coat to be cut square.
The
waistcoat to be single-breasted,
with twelve buttons and holes on the breast, with pocket

close
worked buttonholes and four buttons, which
the flaps.
The
on each knee.
breeches are to be
The
made with a
four buttons
small buttons on the waistcoat to be of the same
The number
kind with the large ones on the coat.

is
half fall
flaps, four
appear below
shall
of the
Regiment
to be in the centre of the button, with such device at the Field
The
Officers shall direct.
epaulettes to be
worn agreeable
Excellency the Commander-in-Chief's orders of June
fashionable military cock'd hat, with a silver button loop, and
number of the Regiment.

when on duty and on the parade.
a small button with the

stock
to his
18, 1780.
No
To
wear a black
edging, vellum lace, or indeed any other ornaments which are
not mentioned, to be added to the uniform.
No
officer is to
wear any other uniform than that of

ment. (Review Orders, by H. Whiting, p. 164.)
mitted, at any time, to
The
for the
clothier
is,
if
be per-
his Regi-
practicable, to obtain worsted shoulder knots,
non-commissioned
officers;
the sergeants are to be distin-
guished by one on each shoulder; and the corporals by one on the

right shoulder;
and
in the
meantime
white cloth should be substituted by

Orders, Headquarters, Newburgh,
it
is
way
May
proposed that a piece of

of distinction.
14, 1782.)
(General
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369
BRIGADE ORDERS, WEST POINT.

June
The Honorable
Brigadier-General
17, 1782.
having expressed
Paterson,
some honorary mark of distinction should be worn

by each Non-commissioned Officer or Private in his Brigade,
his wish that
who has
served
length
time;
of
in
Army
the
and has
also
United
the
of
made a
States
present of
a certain
materials
for
that purpose:
The Commandant
thinks proper to direct, that each
missioned Officer and Private,
who
has served
Non-Com-
years
four
in
any
Continental Regiment, shall be entitled to wear one stripe of white

tape,
on the
from seam
from and
of his regimental coat,
which
shall extend,
on the upper part of the
sleeve,
three inches
left sleeve
to seam,
parallel with the shoulder seam, so that the tape
a herring-bone
may form
figure.
That none presume to wear the badge of distinction, but by the

immediate permission of the Colonel or Commandant of the Regiment,
who, on
its
man who
being
made
to
appear
to his full satisfaction, that the
applies for the badge has served four years, as above, will
The Comwhen any Non-Commissioned Officer
please to order this honor publicly conferred on him.
mandant
further directs, that
or Soldier shall complete eight years service, he shall have the addition
of another stripe set on one inch below the
As emulation
wishes, by
all
is
essential to
promote
first.
discipline, the
Commandant
laudable measure, to kindle the flame in every breast;
and considers that punishment, as well as reward, is absolutely necessary in all government; to promote which design, he directs that
these marks of distinction, in the first instance, be for all who have
actually served as above, without discrimination of character;
that after the publication of this order,
none who
shall
but,
commit a crime
which they are punishable by a Court Martial, shall be entitled

honorary badge for four years from the time they were found
punishable; and should any one who is honored with the badge be
so lost to a sense of honor, which every soldier ought to possess, as
to fall under the sentence of a Court Martial, he is to be divested
of this badge of honor at the head of the Regiment, and excluded
for
to this
37
from wearing
unblemished
it
until
service.
Honorary Badges
he shall retrieve his character, by four years'
(Review Orders, by Henry Whiting,
of distinction are to be conferred
p. 220.)
on the veteran
Army, who have served

more than three years with bravery, fidelity and good conduct, for
this purpose a narrow piece of white cloth, of an angular form is to
be fixed to the left arm on the uniform coats. Non-commissioned
officers and soldiers who have served with equal reputation more
than six years, are to be distinguished by two pieces of cloth, set on
whenever
parallel to each other in a similar form
any singularly meritorious action is performed, the author of it shall
be permitted to wear on his facings, over the left breast, the figure
non-commissioned
officers
and
soldiers of the
of a heart in purple cloth or silk,
(Headquarters, Newburgh, Aug.
edged with narrow lace or binding.

7,
1782.)
In order to prevent misapplication of the honorary badges of distinction to be conferred

in
on the non-commissioned officers and soldiers

service, through any mistake or
consequence of long and faithful
misapprehension of the orders of the 7th

proper to inform the
Army
the General thinks
inst.,
that they are only attainable
by an unin-
terrupted series of faithful and honorable services.
The badges which non-commissioned

permitted to wear on the
service, are to
left
arm
as a
officers
mark
and
of long
soldiers are
and
faithful
be of the same color with the facings of the corps they
belong to and not white in every instance as directed in the orders

(General Orders, Headquarters, Newburgh,
7th instant.
of the
Aug.
11, 1782.)
The Honorable
Secretary of
War
having been pleased to direct
American Cavalry and Infantry shall in future

be blue ground with red facings and white linings and buttons: The
General gives this early notice that provision may be made accordingly
that the uniforms of the
before the
Army
shall receive their clothing for the present
year.

The Corps
of the Artillery
Sappers and Miners

Dec.
will
is
to retain
present uniform, and the
its
have the same.
(Headquarters, Newburgh,
6, 1782.)
The non
the greatest
arrival of the clothing imported
economy
in
from Europe renders
that article doubly necessary.
The Com-
mander-in-Chief therefore recommends that the business of turning

of last year should now be considered as a
primary object, in doing which a certain model as to the fashion
and repairing the coats

and
length, (for the coats ought to be
at present) will be established
corps,
shorter than
officer
of the
from which there must be no deviation
It is
will
made something
by the commanding
expected scarlet cloth for
be furnished.
cuffs,
capes and perhaps half facings
(Headquarters, Newburgh, Feb. 24, 1783.)
Notwithstanding the proposed alteration in the uniforms of the

Infantry and Cavalry
stances that
all
it
appears necessary from inevitable circum-
the Light Infantry companies should be cloathed in
blue coats faced with white until further orders.
Headquarters, Newburgh,
March
(General Orders,
3, 1783.)
The
regiments which have not turned and repaired their coats

draw lots for the scarlet cloth which arrived yesterday. (General
Orders, Newburgh, April 14, 1783.)
are to
When
the Revolutionary
were retained
Point, 23
War
ended, one regular regiment of
and two companies
Infantry
Dec,
in
service.
1783.)
(General
The Uniform
dark blue, with white facings, white
of the corps of artillery
Orders,
Headquarters,
West
was
of the infantry regiment
linings,
black cocked hats, white
hat bindings, white worsted shoulder knots, white buttons,
silver
epaulettes for Officers, white cross belts, black stocks, white under
black gaiters, and black plume. The artillery uniform remained as heretofore; dark blue faced with scarlet, scarlet linings,
dress,
yellow buttons, yellow binding for black
felt cocked hat, and yellow

edging of buttonholes; white under dress, gold epaulettes for Officers;
and yellow worsted shoulder knots

16
for
non-commissioned
officers
and
HISTORIC DRESS IX AMERICA
372
buff belts, white cravats
Hist., Vol.
The
I, p.
and black plume, with red
top.
(Mag. Amer.
482.)
coats of the musicians remained red with blue facings, blue
waistcoats and breeches, silk epaulettes for Chief Musician.
Orders,
I, p.
War
Dept.,
N. Y., 30
Jan.,
(General
1787.) (Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol.
482.)
The
Infantry Officers were
pantaloons
and white
vests,
now
required to wear half boots, white
double
(General
breasted.
Orders,
Headquarters, Loftus Heights, 19 January, 1791.)
During the period of the confederation the troops retained substanthe revolutionary uniforms.
The cavalry had brass helmets
tially
(Secty. War to Q. M. Genl. Saml. Hodgden,

4 Aug., 1792.) (Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 483.)
with white horsehair.
steel mounted."
and Infantry had swords of sabre form respecmounted and steel mounted, two feet six inches in length
for each company officer, and three feet in length for each field
(Mag. Amer. Hist., Vol. I, p. 483.)
officer.
Their swords were "long horseman's sword,
Officers of Artillery
tively yellow
The
officers
being arranged to the four sub-legions
it
now becomes
expedient to give those Legions distinctive marks, which are to be

as follows, viz:
The
first
Sub-legion, white binding
plumes and black
The
upon
their caps with white
hair.
second Sub-legion, red binding to their caps, red plumes
with white hair.
The
third Sub-legion, yellow binding to their caps, yellow
and black
The
fourth Sub-legion, green binding to their
and white
1792.)
plumes
hair.
hair.
caps, green plumes
(General Orders, Headquarters, Pittsburgh, 11 Sept.,

The
Officers will
wear plain cocked hats with no other distinctive
marks, but the plumes of their respective Sub-legions, except

service or action,
commissioned
when they
officers
will
and privates
of their respective Sub-legions.
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Pittsburgh, Sept.
The
the respective pay-masters will deliver to the Cap-
tains or officers
officer
12, 1792.)
following Select Corps shall be immediately drafted from the
Legion
overalls,
in actual
wear the same caps with the non-
Two
commanding companies
two pairs of shoes and two

and private
shirts for
(Gen.
pairs linen
each non-commissioned
Orders,
Headquarters,
Greenville, June, 30, 1794.)
Paymasters
overalls per
The
the
will also furnish
cers of each troop of
Dragoons with two
shirts
commanding
and two pairs
offi-
of linen
man
men will parade for Review tomorrow

All such as have five months
and upwards to serve will be furnished with two pair of linen overalls, two shirts and two pairs of shoes per man.
Those whose term
of service will expire on or before the 1st of December next with
one pair of shoes, one pair of overalls, and one shirt per man
garrison duty
fresh shaved and well powdered
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Greenville, July
The Deputy Quartermaster

Sub-legionary
panies.
will
1,
1794.)
issue all the
bearskins to the
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Greenville, July
9,
1794.)
In 1794 the artillery received helmets, with red plumes.
War
to
Com-
Quartermasters for the use of the Battalion
Quartermaster Genl. Saml. Hodgden, 14 July, 1794.)
Amer. Hist., Vol.
I,
The commanding
make out a particular
(Secty.
(Mag.
p. 484.)
officers
of
the
respective
Sub-legions,
return to the Adjutant General of the
will
number
37*
oocers and soldiers
Nor-con:rr.:ssy>ned
o:
mer
entitled
to
who have not already been furnished

may appear hi the most sc.dierly
clothing. ar.d
On
the 4th Ju'.y
t.
jrhforr-? to be repaired,
and caps.
the hats
ir.2
June
condition.
the Cornrnar.dir.z Orhcers of Corps will cause
and the Hats and Caps properly deco-
The Acting Quartermaster
rated.
sumthat
the "'hole of the troops
wili
procure bearskins for cover-
(General Orders, Headquarters. Greenville,
26, 17^5.)
The
following uniform for the officers of Infantry
served and adopted until otherwise regulated.

the knee
and
is
to be ob-
Coats reaching to
trimmed, scarlet lappels, cuffs and standing capes,
full
white buttons and trimmings, lapels and cape two inches, and cuffs
three inches wide.
and
Vests and breeches white, the former with short
and three buttons.
flaps
full
Black stocks or cravats. Cocked Hats,
boots with black tops.
Greenville, 16th Feb., 1796.)
In
try
1799 the white plume was again prescribed for the Infan-
(Gen. Orders, Headquarters, Loftus Heights,
1799.; (Mag. Amer. Hist.,
The uniform
of the
Jan.,
p. 485.)
Commander-in-Chief
to
be a blue coat, with
yellow buttons, and gold epaulettes, each having three silver stars,
with lining, cape and cuffs of buff
in winter buff vest and breeches;

and breeches, of nankeen.
The coat to be without lappels, and embroidered on the cape
and cuffs and pockets; a white plume in the hat, to be a further distinction.
The Adjutant General, the aids and secretaries of the
Commander-in-Chief, to be likewise distinguished by a white plume.
in
summer, a white
The uniform
vest
of the other General Officers to be a blue coat,
with yellow buttons, gold epaulettes, linings and
facings of buff
the underclothes the same with those of the Commander in Chief.

The Major generals to be distinguished by two silver stars in

each epaulet, and except the Inspector General, by a black and white
plume, the black below.
The
Brigadier to be distinguished by one silver star on each
and by a red and white plume, the red below.

all general officers, who are taken from regiments,
and the officers of inspection, to wear the uniform of the regiments
from which they are taken.
The aids to be severally distinguished by the like plumes, which
are worn by the general officers, to whom they are respectively atepaulet,
The
Aids, of
tached.
The uniforms
of the aids of the
commander
in chief
when not
taken from regiments, to be a blue coat with yellow button, and gold
epaulet,
buff lining
and facings
the
same under-clothes with
the commander-in-chief.
The
Inspector General, his aids, and the officers of inspection
generally, to be distinguished
General and other military
by a blue plume.
officers in his
The Quartermaster
department, to be distin-
guished by a green plume.
The uniform
of the Infantry
and
artillery to
be a blue coat with
white buttons and red facings, white underclothes and cocked hats
the length of the officers coats to reach the knees, the coats
of the Infantry, to be lined with white, of the artillery with red.
uniform of the Cavalry, to be a green coat, with white buttons,
The
lin-
and breeches and helmet caps.

Each Colonel to be distinguished by two epaulettes; each Major,
by one epaulet on the right shoulder, and a strap on the left. All
the Field Officers, (except as above) and the Regimental Staff, to wear
red plumes
the Officers of companies are to wear red plumes.
Captains to be distinguished by an epaulet on the right shoulder;
Lieutenants by one on the left shoulder; cadets by a strap on the
right shoulder.
The epaulets and straps of the regimental officers
ings
to
and facings; white
be of
vest
silver.
Sergeant Majors and Quartermaster Sergeants, to be distinguished
by two red worsted epaulets;

right shoulder;
Sergeants by a like epaulet on the
Corporals by a like epaulet on the
left
shoulder;
the flank companies to be distinguished by red wings on the shoulders.
3J6
The
coats of the Musicians to be of the colors of the facings of
The Chief Musician to

wear two white worsted epau-
the corps to which they severally belong.
All the Civil staff of the
lets.
Army, to wear plain blue coats,

with yellow buttons, and white
underclothes.
No
gold or
sil-
ver lace, except in the epaulets
and straps to be worn.

The commissioned officers,
and cadets to wear swords.
All
the
persons
Army
to
belonging to
wear a black
cockade with a small white

Eagle
the
in
centre.
The
cockade of non-commissioned
officers,
musicians, and priv-
ates
be of
to
Eagles of
tin.
leather,
The
with
regiments
to be distinguished
from each
other, numerically.
The num-
ber of each regiment to be expressed in the buttons.

Office,
(War
Philadelphia, 9 Janu-
ary, 1799.)
From "The Uniform of the

Army of the United States"
(Washington, 1895)
the
Figure
Uniform
of an
bindings and white
taken
of
the uniform of an officer from
385.
American
is
following description
Officer, 1796.
1776 to 1799: "A blue coat,

with red facings and white
buttons and button-holes, white waistcoat and
breeches, white gloves, white epaulettes.
Cocked hat bound with
Digitized by
Google
black
Powdered hair in queue tied with narrow

High black silk stock, ruffle of white shirt show-
black pompon.
white,
silk ribbon.
ing at neck
The
and
wrists."
(Figure 385.)
short-waisted coats
and high
collars
which marked the end
were specially noticeable
in the uniforms,
both military and naval, and form a very striking contrast to the longwaisted garments which characterized the close of the seventeenth
century.
For uniforms of the French officers in America during the Revolutionary period see
Allies, by Edwin M. Stone.
For uniforms of the French troops at this period, see
Our French
Racinet, Costumes Historiques, vol. v.
The uniforms
of a Hessian dragoon
and
of the
Brunswick Troopers
the Revolutionary period are given in American History from
Rosengarten.
German
in
America during
Archives, by
Mr.
J.
G.
GLOSSARY
Digitized by
Google
Glossary
wigs. Made of fine white

were very fashionable and very
expensive in the early part of the
eighteenth century.
Adonis
hair,
From the French agrape,

" a clasp or buckle" also " hooks and
Aggrapes .
eyes."
A metal tag or
1755-
Ala mode.
Colonial newspapers under various

" alimod,"
spellings
" elamond,"
"olamod," "alemod," "arlimod,"

"allamode," and "ellimod," are
some of the variations. It was used
throughout the eighteenth century.
A strong woolen
" ellapine,"
" allpine,"
and
(under various spellings)

A strong
in 1790.
soft silk
with satin surface,
in the East.
Baise, Baize, or Bayes. A coarse

woolen cloth made at Colchester in
the days of Queen Elizabeth.
Ad-
worn
use by the
careful housewife as well as servants
and workingmen, the apron became
for
some unaccountable freak of

fashion late in the sixteenth century
by
article of full dress.
in Colonial papers in all

and used for the clothing of
servants and negro slaves.
colours,
Balandrans or Balandranas. Cloaks

with armholes.
Band.
A collar of lace or linen stiffened
with
starch or underpropped
When
In 1659 we
38i
allowed to
the shoulders,
it
with
upon
fall
was termed a
falling
band.
Band-box.
Originally
made
whence the name.
Bandekyn. A
corded silk in use from the

time of Elizabeth to George III.
Often advertised in Colonial papers.
First
Atlas.
bands
the eighteenth century.
Amazeen.
an
long cloak made with sevcapes and used by men and
wire.
stuff spelled
" alpine," and very popular for

men's wear during the first half of
Aprons.
eral
vertised
plain soft glossy silk

often mentioned in advertisements in
often
Artois.
made
Aigret or Egret. A tuft of feathers

worn on the head. Fly caps with
egrets were advertised in Boston,
Allapine.
Aprons were worn in 1744

so long that they nearly touched the
ground.
women
Aiglet or Aiguillette.
point to a lace.
read that green aprons went out of

fashion.
fabric of silk
to
hold
and gold
thread.
Cases of wood or tin, each

containing a charge of powder,
strung round the neck of a soldier.
Bandileers.
Band-strings. Were usually
of ribbon
or of cord finished with tassels; the
were often decorated

pearls and other jewels.
latter
with
382
Banyan. Originally an Anglo-Indian

name for a loose coat. A morning
gown or wrapper worn by both sexes,
usually of bright-coloured cloth or
damask.
read that these garments
We
were much worn in Virginia, and were

sometimes lined with a rich material,
and thus could be worn either side
worn always by young children and

sometimes by grown people before
1700.
Binder.
worn by
of flannel
out.
Barlicorns.
dress
"
the Colonies.
Made
in
used
in
for
originally
in
Birdet. A silk stuff made in China

or India. "Strip'd and plain bir-
det" was advertised
corded
summer wear.
the Levant, of
Bishop. A
Barrow-coat. A form of swaddling

cloth wrapped about an infant's
body and turned up and fastened
at the bottom to keep the feet warm.
Barrie. An under
skirt
or
petticoat.
Bob-wig. A short close wig worn by

men and boys of all classes on ordinary occasions from about 1725
to 1780.
Bodice or a paire of Boddies. A sort

of stays, an article of apparel worn
often by dandies and in general use
by women in the seventeenth century.
A coarse leathern apron used
Bombards.
Batts. Heavy low shoes laced in front.

Sent to the New England Colonists
in 1636 and after.
Beard-boxes. Were made of pasteboard and worn at night over a

beard to keep it in shape.
A roll of padding placed like

a bustle at either hip to raise the
skirt.
Bearing cloth. Old name
A large pin for

usually of gold or silver.
Bodkin.
by workingmen.
Bearer.
sort of bustle stuffed with
Blodins.-(01d English) Sky-blue.
stuff, probably of silk,

used for petticoats, stomachers, and
"forehead clothes" as early as 1697.
Barvell.
Eng-
horsehair.
camel's- hair.
Barratine. A
or
New
in
land in 1737.
1755.
Barracan.
or
suitable
stuff
fabric
Check'd barlicorns"
were advertised
Barragon
Barry
band
babies under the shirt, sufficiently

tight to give some 'support to the
back.
for a Chris-
tening blanket.
the
hair,
Padded breeches.
Bombazin, Bomberzeen,
or
Bombax.
mixture of silk and cotton, frequently advertised in old papers.
made
Usually of linen thread

over bobbins of bone, whence
Bone-lace.
the name.
Bonnet.
We
read of silk bonnets as
early as 1725 in New England, and

in 1760 of satin bonnets, quilted
bonnets, and Kitty Fisher bonnets,
Quebeck and Garrick bonbut they do not appear in the

and were probably not as fashionable as hoods and
also of
nets,
Bell-hoops. Stiffened petticoats in the

shape of a bell were fashionable in
1731-
Biggin.
Probably
a corruption of beguine, "a nun," and sometimes

spelled "begin."
It was a close cap
portraits of the day,
hats until
century.
Bonnet-paper.
late
in
the eighteenth
stiff
pasteboard used
for the frames of bonnets
and
hats.
Bosom-bottle. A small flat glass bottle, sometimes covered with silk to

match the gown, concealed in the
stomacher of the dress
for
to hold
so generally
flowers,
water
worn by
ladies in the last half of the eight-
eenth century.
Brawls
or Brouls.
striped cotton cloth
advertised
blue and white
made
newspapers
in
in India,
1785
to
and by the Colonists of that period.
A coarse cloth
Elizabeth's reign.
Buffin.
or Bosom Knot.
dainty touch of coloured ribbon
worn from 1730 and for the remain-
Knot
der of the century.
Breeches.
Were
At
worn by
first
made
in
Bugles. Glass beads used in trimmings very early in the Colonies.
Burgoigne.
The front part
of a head-
dress next the hair.

the
early
Colonists, of dressed leather, but

afterward they were made of every
material.
first
Buffonts. A piece ot gauze or lace

worn over or round the neck, and
puffed out over the breast like a
"pouter pidgeon." In New England papers of 1771 "Gauze Buttons" were advertised.
1795-
Breast
383
used in the Civil Wars in England
the
shape was
fastened in at the knee and

but before the end of the
eighteenth century they were worn
loose,
waist,
skin-tight.
device
upon
Breeches-hooks. A
which the breeches were hung to
keep them in shape, mentioned in
the middle of the eighteenth century.
A plate coat.
woolen cloth with
Broadcloth. A
Brigandine.
fine
a smooth surface, mostly used for

men's garments, and always regarded
with respect by the lower classes.
Caddis or Cades. A woolen tape, often

woven into garters, and in common
use in the seventeenth century.
Calash. From the French caliche, a

hood made to pull over the head,
introduced into England in 1765 by
the Duchess of Bedford and very
popular in the Colonies. Possibly
a revival of the old fashion seen
in the recumbent effigies of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
Originally Calicut, from the

in India whence it was imported; later the name was applied
to a cotton fabric in general wear
Toat the time of the Revolution.
wards the end of the century calico
was worn by people of all conditions.
Calico.
town
The French
calicoes imported
were
Ye wha
very fine and delicate in colouring,
Wrote
and were often used
are fain to hac your name

coney Book of Fame
Let merit nae pretension claim
To laurelled wreath!
But hop ye weel, baith back and wame
in the
In gude Braid claith!

Braid claith lends fock an unco heese!
Makes many kail-worms butterflies!

Gives mony a Doctor his degrees
For
skaith.
little
In short you
may be what you
Wi gude
please,
Braid Claith!
Robert
Ferguson.
outer garment
exceedingly strong, sometimes
Much
J of an inch in thickness.
Buff-coat.
made
leather
for
trimming
plain materials.
Calks. Clogs with spiked
soles to
one from slipping on the
Callimanco.
keep
ice.
According to Fairholt, a
glazed linen fabric showing a pattern
on one side only, but described by
some writers as a fashionable woolen
material with a fine gloss.
It
was
undoubtedly popular in the Col"Callimanco gounds" are

mentioned in America in 1666.
onies.
3S4
A plain cap or
Camlet or chainlet. A fabric made of
Callot.
coif.
wool or silk, sometimes of both,

much used for cloaks and petticoats
The name is
the Colonies.
derived from the place of its manuin
all
It
was cut square and broad
at the
ends.
Caul. A net to confine the hair. The

back part of a wig or a woman's cap
is sometimes called a caul.
facture on the banks of the River
Caushets Corsets.
Camlet
Cherridary. An Indian cotton stuff

like gingham.
(17 12 and after.)
England.
in
Campaign-wigs. Were
very fashionable at the end of the seventeenth

and beginning of the eighteenth centuries.
They were full and curled
towards the
front.
Cannons. Garters
or
breeches-fas-
teners.
stiff
woven
cloth of
flax
or hemp.
cap whate'er
still
Capuchin
hood
the sign of
it
be
some degree."
or Capucine.
like
A cloak with
a Capuchin monk's, fash-
ionable in the early part of the eighteenth century.
Carcanet.
necklace set with stones
century.
Casket-girls. Name given to the girls

sent out by the French Government
to Louisiana, each provided with a
small trunkful of clothing.
loose coat, like a jerkin,
worn by men.
Catgut. A cloth woven in cords and

used for lining and stiffening garments.
Cathedral Beard. According to Randle Holmes, this style of beard was

worn by dignitaries of the Church.
Clocks. The plaits of a

ornaments on stockings.
Clogs.
muffler
time
Hindoo
cotton
ruff,
also
Overshoes of various materials
worn
in the Colonies throughout the

eighteenth century.
Cloth of Bodkin.A rich cloth interwoven of silk and gold. The name
is
Cardinal. Cloak with a hood like the

mozetta worn by cardinals which
came into use early in the eighteenth
ladies of the
I.
(From the
"chint," i. e., spotted cloth)
printed in several colours.
or strung with pearls.
Cassock.A
or chin-cloth.
worn by
of Charles
Chints or chintz.
Cap. The general name for a popular

head covering of both sexes.
Is
Chin-band
of lace
Canvas. A
"Any
Chicken-skin. Chicken skin gloves

were worn in bed to keep the hands
white as late as the reign of George
in.
a corruption of Baldach, the an-
name
cient
of
Bagdad, whence
it
was brought.
Clout. A coarse kerchief

head.
Cockers, Cocurs, Cocrez.
wom
on the
Laced high
shoes or half-boots; also thick stockings without feet.
Coif or Quoif .
close-fitting cap.
Colbertine, Colberteen, or Colbatteen. A lace resembling network,
named
for Monsieur Colbert, superintendent of the French King's

Randle Holmes demanufactories.
scribes it as "an open lace with a
It ultimately
square grounding."
became cheap and unfashionable.

Swift,
"Cadens
in
and Vanessa,"
between
Rich Flanders lace and Colbertine."
difference
Collaret. A puff made of soft ribbon

worn around the throat ending in a
bow beneath
Commode. A
(name
lady's head-dress
made
with tiffany or other thin silk. It

came into fashion in England during
the reign of William and Mary.
leather of goatskin, ori-
from Cordova, Spain; sometimes spelt "cordewayne," whence

"cordwainer" or " cordiner," a
ginally
shoemaker.
apparently a
cap,
Dutch
fashion.
Corselet.
light
body armour.
A neck-cloth and often a very
Governor
Berkeley of Virginia ordered one
from England in 1660 which was
costly
article
to cost five
of
dress.
pounds.
Crimson
Criardes. Name given
Cremesyn.
velvet.
stiffened linen,
to
paniers of
which creaked with
every movement.
Crocus. A coarse stuff worn by slaves

and working people.
Crosscloth.
dress
Worn
A part of a woman's head-
worn across the forehead.

in Maryland in 1642 and
Massachusetts in 1647.
Cue de
Paris. According to Watson,

a sort of bustle padded with horsehair.
from
derived
cuir)
made
of leather or of metal fastened

with leather thongs.
Curch
Curchef.A
or
ting
cap worn by
plain close-fit-
women
the
in
Curli-murli.
A fantastic curl or
twist.
Cypress, Cyprus, Sipers, Sypress, or

Syphus. The material, found un-
all these spellings, is described

1678 as a fine curled stuff, part
part hair, and of a cobweb thinness.
It was used like crape for
der
in
mourning.
Dag-wain.
A rough material used for
coverlets for beds, tables, or floors.
Damask
Damascus.A
or
woven
fabric
in elaborate patterns of silk,
Wool damask was

wool, or linen.
used for curtains and bed hangings
in Colonial days.
"Damask
white and azure blewe

Well diapered with lilies new."
"The
Cote. In old English was a woman's

gown.
Cravat.
and
the breast
silk,
Copatain. A sugar-loaf hat, " a capped

crown hat."
Cordevan.
385
for
Colonies.
the chin.
on a frame of wire two or three tiers

high fitted to the head and covered
Cornet.
Armour
back
says:
"The
Cuirass.
Dauphiness.
tle
Squire oj
Low
Degree."
certain style of
man-
advertised in Boston in 1755.
Deriband
terial
or
Deribund.
made
thin
ma-
in India.
or Sergedesoy. A coarse silken

material used in the eighteenth century for men's clothing.
Desoy
Dimity, Dimothy, or Demyt.
This
is
a fine ribbed cotton fabric made first

in Damietta, used throughout the
Colonial period and until the present
day.
Dornex.
heavy coarse
linen,
like
canvas.
Doublet. A garment usually made of

two thicknesses of stuff, whence its
name.
Dowlas.
A heavy linen originally from
Brittany.
386
Summer breeches.
Drugget. A fabric of wool used
Farthingale. The under supporter of

the wide gown or petticoat worn in
Drawers.
heavy coats,
Ducape.
for
etc.
silk of plain
colour mentioned in inventories from

was durable and very
twill.
Duffels or Duffals.
made
originally
woolen
and
after.
sometimes
fabric,
The Mas-
sort of kersey.
Variegated needlework
used for decoration of dress. From
the French broder.
Engageants. Deep
hanging down to
double
ruffles
dangling on
lock
the
Felt
Felt. A fabric of wool and hair.
hats were first made in England in
the days of Henry VIII.
Firmament.
for the
An
head
Fly-fringe.
sleeves are engageants."

'Mundus Muliebris," 1690.
Eschelles or Echelles. A stomacher

laced or ribboned in the form of a
ornament
encircling
with gems.
set
A very
popular trimming
made
of tufts of silk to match or

contrast with the gown.
In fashion
through the Georgian Era.
Follette.A very
light fichu.
knot of ribbon worn on

the head-dress, so called for Mile.
Fontange.
Fontange, who first wore

times confused with the
the wrist.
"About her
on top of which
it
it.
Some-
Commode,
was usually worn.
Fote or Foot-mantel. An outer skirt

worn by a woman on horseback to
keep her gown clean.
ladder.
Face-painting.
Portrait painting.
Rows of
Falbalas or Furbelows.
French Fall.A
plait-
ing or puffs, fashionable in the time

of William
and Mary.
puckered
flounce.
Frieze.
cloth
like
the
band, a large
sixteenth
collar,
and seven-
use
sort of shoe.
and warm
since
woolen
fourteenth
the
Full
soft
ruffles
used
for
rib-
bon.
A piece of stuff worn under

the hood and projecting beyond it
over the forehead.
teenth centuries.
trimming.
thick
century.
Frontlet.
falling
in
in
Frilals. Borders of ornamental
A kind of coarse cloth
frieze.
Fallals.
I.
Favourite. A
all
he, as it were a mede

All of fresh flowers, white and red."
"Canterbury Tales."
"Embroidered was
Fall. A
worn
out
supposed to be a
poniard
thrusts
and for that reason encouraged by
from
temples.
sachusetts Bay Colonists were supplied with " 100 sutes of Norden
dussens."
Falding.
Breeches. Stuffed
protection
stuff
called "everlasting."
Dussens. A
Embroidery.
waist-line.
Farthingale
James
woolen
Flanders, used
in
in the Colonies in 1672
I.
like a circular cushion stuffed

with hair, and worn just below the
like a farthingale,
A strong linen fabric without a
Durant.
James
Made
A heavy corded
It
1675.
popular.
Duck.
the time of Elizabeth and
Furbelows. An ornamental trimming

for women's gowns, described as a
puckered flounce.

Fustian.
A species of
made
cloth, originally
on the Nile, used

and doublets as early as
It had a warp
thread and a woof of thick
at Fusht
for jackets
Metal
with armour.
Grain.
the fifteenth century.

of linen
cotton.
Fygury. An
old
name
for silk diapered
with figures of flowers and
lace
gold,
boots
worn about
1688.
Garters. The New England Colonists

were furnished with Norwich garters.
In the time of James I garters were
small sashes of silk tied in a large
bow.
Gauze.
transparent
stuff in
Greaves.
Armour worn
to protect the
Gridelin. A soft blue gray colour

fashionable in the eighteenth century.
or silver, or of silk only.
Gamoshes.High
silk texture in-
A rough fabric of silk and

wool with a diagonal weave. Country women wore gowns of it in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
in England and it was much used
Grogram.
in the Colonies.
Hair-clasps.
its
The old name for
Gloves. Were worn on all occasions

of ceremony by both sexes in early
Colonial Days. They were often
embroidered in gold or silver. We
read of perfumed gloves in England
in 163 1.
gives tome perfumed gloves, the
best that he can buy me.
I will, I will have the loves
of all that come nigh me."
"A Fayre Portion jor a Fayre Maide."
Live where
Glove Tightens. To keep the long

gloves in place, were made of plaited
hair as well as of ribbon.
Goffering.
The
plaits of
mode of ironing the

a ruff over heated poking
or goffering sticks.
Golosh.
A shoe with
leather kept
worn as
17
worn
set
fillet
metals,
etc.
for the hair,
much
in the eighteenth century.
Haling-hands. Mittens for sailors and

workingmen. The palms were often
lined with leather.
Hanaper
or
Hamper.
wicker bas-
ket.
Hand-ruffs. Ruffles
for the wrist.
A small sword worn by gen-
tlemen with morning dress in the

seventeenth century.
Hatch.
A locker
in
which clothing was
kept and which generally stood at

and was used as
a seat.
the foot of the bed
Hive.
like
sort of straw bonnet shaped

a bee-hive.
" Upon her head a platted hive of straw

which fortified her visage from the
sun."
soles of
wood
or
on by straps over the
instep.
(from the Anglo-Saxon Hood)

Were worn with great variations
Hoods.
by both sexes from the

eleventh to the eighteenth century
Replaced by caps and hats in the
reign of George II.
of fashion
Gorget. An
which was
keep the back
with pearls,
Hanger.
"One
to
made of various
Hair-lace.
name.
carnation pinks.
Worn
hair in place,
and often
vented at Gaza in Palestine, whence
Gelofer or Gillofer.
(a colour).
Grassets or Grazzets. A dress

use from 17 12 to 1768.
front part of the legs.
fruit.
Galloon or Galon. A kind of

made of silk woven with cotton,
Scarlet
387
worn
were
gorgets
onies.
neckband
ornamental
and broad in front,
full
early as 1642 in the Col-
388
Hookers.
name
who eschewed
sects
given to certain
the use of but-
Mennonites or Dunkers.
tons.
Hoops.
The
In
Kincob
large figures.
the Colonies followed
all
A loose
A chest.
Kirtle.
shape, and
the English changes of
were worn by old and young. (1712-
Kist.
1778.)
Knop. A
Hum-Hum. A
cotton
coarse
fabric
brought from India, used for lining

coats, etc., 1 750-1 770.
Inkle.
A woolen tape or braid.
Used
and sewed on
in pat-
as a trimming
Iron-pot. Familiar name of the iron

head-piece worn by Cromwell's soldiers.
Isabella colour. Dirty white.
popular garment worn in

the Colonies from 1641 and after.
Jean.
A twilled cotton cloth used both
underwear and for outer garments. Summer suits for men were
for
made
often
Jerkin.
of jean in the Colonies.
Another
name
for jacket or
doublet.
Jerkinet. A
women.
Joseph.
similar
lady's
toned
down
open
this
garment
riding-habit
the front.
for
but-
When worn
garment was
popularly
called a " flying Josie."
Jumps.
loose
bodice
women,
men,
reaching to the thighs, buttoned

the front, with sleeves to the
down
wrist.
Kendal.
first
A green woolen cloth or baize
made
at
A
Kersey. (under
Kenting.
button.
lacing cord (the
fine
Kendal
in
England.
fine linen fabric.
various
woolen material.
spellings)
name came
earlier days,
that delicate
and beautiful
which is one of the most adornaments of costume.

mirable
Mechlin, a favourite lace in the Colonies, was made in Flanders; pointfabric
French
or
point,
made
"Your snowy
rice;
also
much
in Alencon.
wrists
do Mechlin pendants
do the smartest wigs adorn thy

face?"
"The
Test of Love," Nicholas Amherot.
Lappets. The lace pendants of a lady's

cap or head-dress. Very fashionable in the last half of the eighteenth
century.
A delicate fabric used as early

as Elizabeth's day.
Lawn.
A thin linen fabric used for caps.

Levite. Another name for a polonese,
Leno.
and made
of
dimity
and muslin,
often bordered with chintz or
calii-
manco.
L inset. The
for
also a loose coat or jacket for
or tunic.
lacier,
worn, was
gown
"to fasten"). In the

trimming woven with
gold and silver thread and put on
In its later sense sigin flat rows.
from
lace
Were introduced in the

seventeenth century.
Jacket.
Lace. A
nifying
terns.
Jack-boots.
A rich Indian
brocaded in flowers and
Kinkhaib.
or
stuff of silk,
sat
when
stool
on which a
woman
spinning.
Linsey-wolsey.
A coarse woolen
stuff
made at Linsey in Suffolk,

England, and very popular in the
first
Colonies.
Liripipes. Long streamers of gauze

or ribbon attached to a head-dress
and often hanging to the feet.
Loo masks. Half masks

face to the nose only.
covering the

Loretto.
used for
material
silk
waistcoats.
Love-lock. A long ringlet of hair

worn on the left side of the head.
Lustring.A
soft
silk,
plain
flowered, in general wear for
or
many
years.
Macaroni.
Nickname
Whence
fop.
for
a London
arose the use of the
word in the contemporary doggerel

of Yankee Doodle and its application as a name in the American
Revolution to a body of Maryland
troops remarkable for showy uni(Century
forms.
(1770-1775.)
Dictionary.)
Mandillion. An outer garment. The

New England Colonists wore them
lined with cotton and fastened with
hooks and eyes.
Man tee. A
coat with
sleeves
which
hung open from the throat showing

the stomacher and petticoat beneath.
A form of sacque for outdoor wear, sometimes name of ma-
Mantua.
terial for
making sacques. We read,

mantua silk
for instance, of yellow

in 1741.
As a protection from the sun

and wind, were worn by women and
children in
Mercury.
all
the colonies.
women
in fashion
about
1760 in Boston and elsewhere.
Mittens.
and
Were
made
dressed
knitted of wool.
of
Modesty-piece. A piece of lace worn

across the upper part of the stays.
Cap. A popular headgear

mentioned in the outfits of the Col-
Monmouth
Made
onists.
of
is still
the old
originally in
town
the
parts
which
known
of
Monmouth,
as the Capper's
town.
Monteroe or Mountero Cap. Made

with a low crown and flap which
could be turned down for protection.
Morion. A head-piece of armour introduced from Spain and worn by Engthe latter half of the
lish soldiers in
sixteenth
Mouches.
century.
Black
patches
were thus
called because they looked like
flies.
Were worn
when the coat sleeves were short,
by men and women in the time of
Muffetees or Wristlets.
William and Maiy.
Have been in use from early

the seventeenth century to the
present day.
For many years they
were carried by both men and women
Muffs.
in
of heavy cloth
skins
as
of woolen stuff, fur, and

We read that Judge Dana
Boston carried one until after the
feathers.
of
well
Murry.
Nabob.
Mulberry colour.
A thin East India
A cotton cloth of
stuff.
Nankeen.
as
Mitts. Fingerless gloves made of kid

or silk and often of lace-work for
summer wear. Mitts made of cotton or linen like the dress were but-
toned to the shoulder of the gown

and were in fashion after the Revolution.
a thin silk. A
fashionable in the eighteenth century was also called a " mode."
Revolution.
The name for a certain kind
of cap for
3 S9
"alamode,"
mantle with a hood
contraction of
and made
Masks.
Mode.A
colour
named
a yellow
imported from China and

for Nankin, where it was
made.
Neck-cloths.
women
Worn by both
men and
in the Colonies.
" Before your glass each morning do you

stand
And tie your neck -cloth with a critic's
hand."
Neckstock.A
stiffly
folded
cravat
39o
worn
the throat, finished

with a buckle at the back.
Negligee.
open
close
to
loose
gown or sacque
over a handsome petti-
in front
coat; and, in spite of
its
name, was
not only in high fashion for
was worn
years, but
many
in full dress.
Night-rail. A dress unconfined at the

waist and closed only at the neck
literally
night-gowns,
which the
ladies adopted as a morning costume.
" Three night-gowns of rich Indian stuff."
"Mundus
uliebru."
None-so-Prettys.
Fancy
tapes.
Orange-butter. A pomade used

Dutch Colonies.
Orrice.
in the
lace
of office in the Colonies.
name.
smooth
Padua.
rich
originally at
silk
made
head-dress.
Were
made
of
hoops
of
straw, cane, or whalebone fastened

together by tapes.
Paragon. A stuff used for common

wear in the seventeenth century.
varied into
all
manner
of shapes.
A sole of wood on iron rings

fastened to the foot by leather straps.
Pelerine.
A small cape with long ends
in front.
Engeigh-
of tassels or nar-
Persian.
of cloaks
thin silk used for linings
and hoods or
Sold in New
for
summer
England
gowns.
in
(Originally petty-coet)
garment worn universally and made
Quilted
were advertised as early as
1720 in the Colonies.
of a
dead
leaf.
Pig-tail Wig. Wig with a plaited tail

tied with a ribbon, worn very generally in the middle of the eighteenth
century.
Pilgrim.
cape or ruffle fastened to

the back of a bonnet to shield the
neck; usually made of thin silk.
Pillion.
The extension of a saddle on

woman
rode before the days
of side-saddles.
Pinner. Usually a child's bib or apron

and mentioned often in the seventeenth century, but caps fastened on
with pins were also called pinners in
Pins or Pinnes. Were sold for one

shilling and four pence a thousand
in the early Colonial days.
Patches. First introduced towards the

end of the reign of Charles I and
Pattens.
in
and
Perpetuana, Petuna, or Perpets.

glossy woolen stuff like lasting worn
by the Puritans in 1629 and after.
which a
Palisade. A wire sustaining the hair

next to the first knot. Part of the
commode
Pennache. A bunch
row ribbons.
Philomot. Colour
Oznaburg. A coarse linen made in

Hanover and named for a province
Paniers.
made
petticoats
Paduasoy.
coarse woolen stuff
of every sort of material.
Oxford Gown. The academic gown

worn usually on public occasions by
men in authority, chiefly as a badge
of that
land in the seventeenth

teenth centuries.
Petticoat.
or gimp trimming
with gold and silver thread.
woven
Penistone. (under various spellings)
Plumpers.
balls to
Very thin
round and
plump out and
light
up hollow
fill
cheeks.
Points.
Ties
or
laces
of
ribbon or
and used
leather decorated with tags
instead of buttons to fasten garments

together.
They were
in general use

until late in the seventeenth century,
both for armour and
Polonese.
ment
for
women
finished
front,
hood
civilian's dress.
A long-sleeved coat-
at the
opening down the

with a large
often
Pomander. A
perforated ball or box

with perfumes, used to prevent infection.
filled
ficial
An
ornament made of
arti-
flowers, feathers, tinsel, etc.
Pretintailles.
Large
Mary.
Rash.
A wool fabric of inferior quality.

heavy woolen material
Ratteen. A
something
gown, such as
stuff
like
flea.
Name
part of a
lapels, reveres, etc.
or Rochet. A long woolen

mantle
trimmed
with
fringe.
Brought from Devon or Cornwall.
Rocket
for
of Roquelaure,
mentioned
Roquelaure or Roquelo. A cloak

both men and women, named
Duke
in
New England
Made
of
all
papers of
for
1730.
heavy materials and
generally of bright colours.

Often
two small capes of the same material
garment on the shoul-
ders.
Roses.
Ornaments
made
in the
ribbons,
of
One
jewels.
form of roses
and even
lace,
the
of
extrava-
pet
gances of the seventeenth century.
Pug. A short cape with hood attached

and usually made of silk, velvet, or
cloth.
Worn on
shoe with a thin sole and

mentioned in the six-
heel, first
teenth century.
species
who
and
hat-
read of an English galpaid 30 pounds for a pair.
Round-cord Cap.
tied
garters,
shoes,
We
bands.
lant
Pump. A
on with a
fine
cap which was

cord back of the
ears.
of
edging used
on
caps, collars, cuffs, etc.
Ruffles. Of lawn and lace were worn

in the sleeves and in the front of the
shirts until after 1800.
Qualitie. A coarse tape for strings or

binding, used in all the Colonies be-
tween 1700 and 1800.
Rail or Rayle. A loose garment (old

English), but later applied only to
night-gowns.
or Romall. A neckerchief or
small shawl to be worn over the
shoulders.
Ramall
species of hood.
finished the
woolen
close
Puce Colour. Colour of a

given by Louis XVI.
Purl.
like drugget.
Rayonne . A
lasting.
low
tail in the back with a large

and small bow at the
(1708 and after.)
at top
end.
the
cut-out patterns
laid on a dress as trimming.
Introduced in the time of William and
Prunella.
at the sides, a
Robings.The ornamental
or Pompadore. Was a
word in constant use in the eighteenth
century.
We read of Pompadore
shoes, laces, caps, aprons, sacques,
stockings, and head-dresses.
Pompon.
39i
A wig bushy
braided
bow
like gar-
back of the neck.
Pompadour
Ramilie.
Russel or Russet.
stuff
like baize,
twilled
much worn
woolen
in the
Colonies.
"
Our
good sheepskins
Gray russet for our wives
'Tis warmth and not gay clothing
That doth prolong our lives."
"Condon's Song."
clothing
Safeguard.
is
An outside petticoat worn
over the dress as a protection from

mud
or dust in riding by women in

the Colonies.
(1650 and after.)
Sagathy
or
woolen
Sagathie. A
durable
or Semnar.
lady's jacket.
Originally a Dutch garment. " It had
a loose body and side flaps, or skirts
which extended to the knee, the
sleeves short to the elbow, turned
back and faced" (Randle Holmes).
The samare was
often
made
long
and was worn opening over a petticoat and waistcoat very much like
the English sacque.
Sarsnet, Sarsenet, or Sarsinet. A thin

silk still in use, but dating from the
thirteenth century.
Satin Jean. A thick cotton cloth with

a glossy surface used for shoes and
(from the French
Originally a silk
soie)
is
mentioned in Colonial
from 1629 to 1768.
or
twilled fabric of either
silk,
often of both.
worn on
(1 580-
1647 an d after.)
Shag.
heavy woolen cloth with a

long nap.
(1632 and after.)
Shagreen.
An
untanned leather with
a granular surface often

sharkskin and dyed green.
Shalloons.
the
made
of
challis
Skilts.
and made
sort of legging
in riding, to protect
in
worn
from mud, but-
toned up outside the trousers.
made
Short
full
reaching
trousers
below the knee, full half a yard

wide at the bottom. Worn during the
Revolution by the country people.
just
Slyders or Slivers. Overalls.
A shirt of heavy linen worn

by farm labourers and workingmen.
Before 1700 a shift was often called
a smock. In " Mundus Muliebris"
Smock.
read:
"Twice twelve day-smocks
of
Holland
all
Flanders
fine
Twelve more
for
night,
lac'd."
Snuff. Came into general use in England in 1702.
Snuff-boxes.Were carried by both

men and women for the greater part
of the century.
A broad black ribbon introduced from France in the time of

Louis XV worn close around the
Solitaire.
throat, apparently to protect the coat
from the powdered wig. Sometimes

it was tied to the back of the wig
and brought round and tucked in
the shirt ruffle. According to advertisements in the American newspapers, it was much worn in the
A knot of small ribbon peeping

out between the pinner and bonnet.
Sorti.
Chalons, France.
Sherry-vallies.
a moc-
Colonies.
A woolen fabric not unlike
modern
like
and much worn
during the Revolution.
in
A sunshade either
the head or held in the hand.
A shoe shaped
of tanned leather
suitable
Shadow.
This undergarment was
casin, without a separate sole,
lists
wool
A head covering, or a stuff

for headgear.
We read
1766 of "painted lawns and
chequer'd shades."
Shades.
Shoepack.
and wool material.
It
Serge.
or chemise, usually of
shirt
Colonial days often made with

long sleeves which were laid in fine
plaits with a knife when laundered.
we
similar purposes.
Say or Soy.
fine linen.
in
stuff.
Samare
Shift.
Spagnolet.
sleeves,
gown
with
narrow
& I'Espagnole.
Spanish Paper.
red
colour
with

ladies of Spain
which the
their faces.
It
and considered a
luxury in the Colonial days.
painted
sixteenth century
was made up into little
books and a leaf was torn out and

rubbed upon the cheeks, the vermillion powder which covered it being
Taminy.
made
It was in
transferred to the face.
use at the end of the eighteenth cen-
Tassets.
Stammel. A heavy
or
woolen
stuff like alpaca,
in Norfolk, 1653
Splints
and
after.
of steel fastened
to
the corselet as a protection for the

thighs.
Worn until late in the seven-
tury.
Stamin
cloth
teenth century.
like linsey-woolsey.
Thrum.
teenth
and seventeenth centuries by
country
hats knitted of this material were
folk.
called thrums.
Small
ornamental hooks
stuck in the edge of the bodice on
Stayhooks.
which
hang an
to
"And
Tiffany. A heavy silk fabric. (1792 and

after.)
Tippets. A neck covering made of a

variety of materials worn for ornament, of gauze and tissues, and for
in 1692.
back
Were
worn on horse-
to protect the nether garments.
They were wide
warmth, of
the back and

fastened with straps to the girdle.
Stock.
Tongs. Overalls
stiff
Tufftaffeta. A
the cravat.
stripe,
Stock-buckle. Buckle which fastened

I
the stock.
Has
stock with buckle made of plate

put the cravat out of date."
Strap Cap. A cap which fastened with

flaps under the chin.
Sultane.
tons
A gown caught up with
and
A fleecy cloth
like
used for linings,
etc.
sort of
watered
Canton
silk.
taffeta with
in
New
a chenille
England.
shade of red.
Turban also Turbin. A head-dress for

women made of gauze and trimmed
with feathers, very fashionable in the
Colonies.
(1760 and after.)
Trollopee.
Another name for negligee.

The piece of armour
Veil.
One of the most ancient
of
for covering furniture.
A rich cloth used
which protected the forearm from

elbow to wrist.
Vampay.A short hose or sock of wool.
Tabinet or Tabaret. Another name for

poplin, used for petticoats, and also
Taffeta.
worn
Vambrace.
flannel,
but-
Tuly.
loops.
Swanskin.
Tabby.
of coarse cotton or
linen.
The
fur.
at
neck-cloth buckled at
the back of the neck, successor to
"
her thrum'd hat and her muffler
ttui.
Steinkirk. A cravat folded with careName given by the

less
grace.
French to commemorate the battle
Stirrup-hose.
The extremity of a weaver's

warp, often about nine inches long,
which cannot be woven. Caps and
Startups or Startop. A sort of buskin

for ordinary wear worn in the six-
of
first in
the
articles
female attire, the couvre chef

the Anglo-Saxon ladies and an
important
part
of
the
conventual
394
costume, but retaining

the wardrobes of
women
its
place in
to-day.
Whitney. A heavy
for
coats,
coarse stuff used
cloaks,
and
petticoats,
1737 and after.
Whisk.
the
collarette or
neck
made
and
of muslin
cape to cover
shoulders,
usually
trimmed with
lace
and worn with low-cut gowns, in

the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
in 1660.
We
read of Tiffany whisks
Whittle.
A blanket shawl with
worn
in 1665
and
fringe,
after, in the Col-
onies.
Worsted. A woolen cloth first made

at Worstead in England in the reign
of Henry I.
INDEX
Digitized by
Google
Index
Ablettes, 72
Acadian exiles, 36
Actors in America, 238
Adams's, Mrs. Abigail,
Bricklayer, 53
Bridal veil, 206, 209
letter
from England,
describing the fashions, 259

Adventurers, 33, 43
Advertisements in colonial newspapers, 245Anan, Major, 255

Andros, Sir Edward, 136
Aprons, 53, 68, 71, 100, 130, 195, 20a
Armour, 56, 59, 60, 99
Arquebusiers, 27
Artificial flowers, 213
Artisans, 33
Attitude
of
New
Colonists in
the
Bridge spectacles, 193

Bridling, 196
Brigade Orders, West Point, 369
Broad-brimmed hats, 95, 312, 323
Buccaneers, 27, 28
Buckle, 247
Buckles, 311
Buckskin breeches, 346
Buckskin shoes, 346

Buff coats, 59, 60, 107
Burney, Miss, verses on a great-coat by, 257
Burroughs, Anne, 47
Buttons, 64, 67, 109, 324
England
towards the English Church, 113, 114
Calash,
214, 222, 233

California, 26, 31
Campaign wig, 147, 299
Baby-clothes, 283
Back boards, 196
Canes, 205
Bacon's Rebellion, anecdote

Baize, gowns of, 258
of,
Cannons or breeches
71
Caps
Wm., Governor
outfit,
6i_,
100,
193,
99
214,
317,
257
Children, dress
of,
18th century, 283, 292
Chintz gowns, 257

Church services, 17th century, 54
City troop, uniform of the, 350
Cleaning establishment, 249
Clergymen, dress of, 1 7th century, 54, 114, 115
Clergymen, dress of, 18th century, 304, 307
Cloaks, 100, 103, 193, 217, 229, 252, 263
Clogs, 34, 186, 217
Coats, 17th century, 61, 109, 143
Coats, 1 8th century, 312, 332
291
Bodices, coloured, 33
Bodices, pair of, 150
Bonnets, 202, 214, 222, 225, as 6, 273
Boots, 64, 312, 324
Bowne's, Elizabeth, descriptions of dress in
Breeches, 53,
women,
of the Virginia
Colony, 48, 60, 61

Bishops, 222
Blacksmith, 53
Boarding-school
Bobs, 300, 303
for
Capuchins, 229
Cardinal, 140, 193, 194, 229
Carpenters, 53
Cavalier, Robert, Sieur de La Salle, 32, 33
Cavaliers, 63
Chaises, 263
Chapeau bras, 312
Chatelaines, 133
Chief justice, robe of a, 335
Children, dress of, 17th century, 47, 52, 113,
Bands, 51, 64
Banyans, 315
Barbadoes, 63
Basquinas, 28
Bath bonnets, 222
Bayard, Nicholas, costume of, 144
Bayard, Madam, costume of, 147
Beards, 44
Beaver hats, 190, 214
Berkeley, Sir
fastenings,
Capes, 34
Capotes, 34
Baldricks, 51
Baltimore, Lord, 56
Bandoliers, 09, 103
Cockades, 376
67, 143
397
INDEX
398
Cocked hats, 143, 2qq, 328, 332

Cocking the hat, various forms of, 308, 31
Coif of a Dutch matron, 130, 136
men, 152, 156
Coifs,
Coifs, women, 164

Colebatteen ruffles, 147
Colonial militia, 99
Colonial period, end of, 255
Commode,
108,
147,
First
of,
359
Countryman, 17th century, 54

Cravats, 312
Creedon, Captain, 61
of,
349
French curls, 196

French falls, 64
French settlers, dress of, 33, 34
French taste prevalent in America, 256
Frocks or overshirts, 263
Full dress in New England (middle of 18th
Cue de
Paris, 2_2_2
Cuffs, 143, 202
6a
Curli-murlis, 195
Curls, IQ4
Curtsey, 100
Curwen, Judge, 103

Cushions for the hair, 214, 217
Custis children, clothes ordered for, 2S8
Daxces, 234
century), 214. 217

Funeral of Lady Andros, ioj
Furbelows, 143
Fur caps, 130
Fur-trimmed jackets, 130
Galloon, 68
Delany, Mrs., 193

Delaware settled, 136
Delaware, Swedes on the, 136
Dentists, 248
Deportment, 196
Dickinson, Maria, letter quoted, 258
Discriminative dress, 230
Domestics, 244, 246
Doublets, 28, 44, 51, 59, 61, 96, 109
Drake, Sir Francis, 26
129, 130
Dutch bridal crown, 130

Dutch bride, 130
Dutch children, dress of, 135
Dutch merchants, i_2j
Dutch peasant women, dress of, 126
Dutch settlers, lu
Dutchman, working dress of, 129
Dyes, 122, 133
F.ARRIXGS, 52
Encouragement of home manufactures, 252

English gentleman, dress
of,
17th century, 44,
Si
ii9_. 143
English gentleman, dress of, 18th century, 299
English gentlewoman, dress of, 17th century,
52, 139, 143
English gentlewoman, dress of, 18th century,
1/7
English rule in all the Colonies, 139
Etui,
Troop City Cavalry, uniform
Fithian, Philip, diary of, 230, 234
Flounces, 143
Fob pockets, 318
Forrest, Mrs., 42
Franks, Miss, 256
Corselets, 99
Drummer, 53
Dutch babies,
Falling bands, 61, 96

Falling collars, 6jj 96
Fans, 68, 189, 214
Farthingale, 4^ 193
Farthingale breeches, 44
Fashion dolls, 178, 181, 256
Feathers in the hair, 195, 214
Fenwick, Lady Mary, 108
181
Connecticut settlers, 84, 85

Continental soldiers, uniform
Cordovan leather, 26
Cuirass
Falbalas, 143
2J22
Eves, Miss Sarah, journal
of,
241
Gauntlets, 99
Geneva gown,
George
56, 1 14
III, dress in the reign of, 202.
316
German
settlers, 160, 163

hats, 101 196, 214
Gloves, 67, 96, 99, 100, 256, 323
Gold beads, 217
Gipsy
Gold
lace,
99
Gorget, 6q
Gray
hair fashionable, 307

Great-coats for men, 316, 319, 320, 332
Great-coats for women, 257, 258
Green aprons worn by Quakers, 140
Gumbos, 35
Guns, go, iso
Hair-dressing, 217, 218. 230, aec

Hair powder, 143, 193, 331
Half-Moon, The, 121
Hampshire kerseys, 96
Hatchments, 107
Hats, 95, 135, 140, 143, 332
Head-dresses, 143, 194
Helmets, 59
Herrisons, 268
Hibbins, Mistress Anne, 110
Higginson, letter from, 84
High
High
heels,
139
prices during the Revolution, 256

Hogarth, 307
Holland, dress of the women, 8g
Holland shirts, 5jj 6jj 64
Hollar, Wenceslaus, 86
Home Life in New England, 18th century, 263
INDEX
Homespun
parties, 252
Hoods,
34, 68, 100. 108. 152, 18s, 186, 214

Hooks and eyes, 06
Hoop, the, 182. 193, 195, 217, 256
Hooped petticoats, 182. 193, 196, 199
Horn flasks, 99
Horse-blocks, 263
Horsehair bonnets, 212
Hose, 68
Household servants, 244
Hubbard
store,
contents
399
Light Horse of Philadelphia, uniiorm of the,

349
Livery at Mt. Vernon, 245
Lolonais, Francis, 28
Long Island settled, 136
Long waistcoats, 303
Lynn, shoes made at, 95J worn by women, 217
Macaroni costume,
of,
241
Macaronis,
the, 241. 243

settled in 1623, 113
Mandillion, 84. 85, 96
73
Hudson, Captain, 109

Hudson, Henry, 121
Huguenots, the, L22
Hunting shirts, 346, 354
Maine
Manhattan, gay costumes

Manifesto against long
Mantillas, 28
Mantles, 68
Inauguration
ball, description of, 267

Inauguration costumes of Washington, 267,
in,
122
hair, 89.
Marie Antoinette, Queen, makes a reform
in
dress of children, 292
Maryland
ail
Irish stockings,
96
Sir Thomas,
Italian curls, 136
Isham,
wedding
suit of,
no
settled, 56
Masks, 133
Mason, 53
Massachusetts Line, Orders
for,
365
Settled in 1620, 83; Order of

the General Court of, 94, 95, 108; dress
of women, ojjj a religious commonwealth,
Massachusetts:
Jackets, 130
11S
Jefferson, Thomas, suit worn by, 328

Jersey Blues, uniform of the, 349
Jerseys (the) settled, 136
Jesuit missionaries, 25, 26
Jewelry, 17th century, 72
Jockey coat, 3_ri
Judges, costume
Jute -braids, 250
of,
Menendez de
Aviles,
Pedro de, 25
Mennonites, l6q
Militia, dress of the,
346
Mincing
air, 322
the, 234
Minuit, Peter, 121
Minute-men, dress of the, 346
Mischianza, 25J
Mittens, 67, ioq
Mitts, children's, 284
Minuet,
152
Keeper
of the Great Seal, 155

Kerchiefs, 34
Kitchen utensils, 74
Knit caps, 96
Moccasins, 34
Mocking
birds, 73
caps, 44, 64,
Monmouth
96
Moravian caps, 167

Moravians, 163, 164, 167
Sir Henry, 28
Morions, 5J
Morgan,
Labourers, 53, 133, 328

Labrador tea, 252
Moro
Lake, Mrs., ojj list of household articles, 93J

fur mantle, oj
Lange, Dr. Jacob de, wardrobe of, 134
Lange, Mrs. de, wardrobe of, 133
Lappets, 195
La Salle, Robert Cavalier, Sieur, 32, 33
Law Courts in England, 17th century, 151
Lawyers' bags, 335
Lawyers
in the Colonies,
17th century, 114,
1 is,
148; 1 8th century, 335
Leather breeches, 328, 332, 346
Legal costumes, 17th century, 148;
i8thi
cen-
tury. 315
Legal customs, 17th century, 148: 18th century. 335- 336
LegRings, 34. 332
Lemcke, Count, 167
Leverett, Sir John, Governor of the Massachusetts Colony, 100
(1500-1778), 25
Mourning
104,
dress
ana customs, 17th century,
107, iqS
dress, 18th century, 251
Mourning
Mourning
rings, 72,
107
Muff-dogs, 62
Muffs, 62, 143, 190
Murillo(i6i8-i682), 25
Musical instruments, 74
Musk-melon bonnet, 2_2_2
Neckcloths,
64, ioq, 143, 147, 324

Negligees, 139, 230
Net worn over a queue, 316

New England, 17th century, dress of the
women, too
New Hampshire
New-market
New
settled in 1623,
coat,
Orleans, 35
316
13
INDEX
400
Non-conformists, gowns
Normandy
Oak
Quaker
114
312
glasses,
aprons, 140
Quaker bonnets, 225

Quaker hats, 140
Quaker settlers in Pennsylvania Province, 139
Quaker weddings, description of, 226, 258
peasants, 36
sticks,
Opera
of,
Quakers, dress of
241
Ordinary people, dress of, 18th century, 328

Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, 86
Orrices, 147, 186
Outfit of fashionable man, 331
Outfit of the Massachusetts Bay Colonists, 84
Outfit of the Virginia Colonists, 44
Overalls, 357
the, 130, 140. 225, 226. 229,
Quakers, portraits of, 258

Queensbury, Duchess of, a wonderful gown
of,
Queues, 316, 331

Quilted petticoats, 202. 257
Quitasols, 230
Overshoes, 335
Patch boxes, 189
Ramilie wig, 299, 304

Rapiers, 109
Restraining Acts of the Pilgrims, 96
Revere, Paul, a dentist, 248
Rhode Island settled 1636, 113
Richbell, Robert, 109
Riding dress, 17th century, iog
Riding suit, a lady's, 18th century, 186
Patches, 62, 189
Ringlets, 273
Patriotic agreement, 251

Patroons, 1 22
Pattens, 130, 201. 217
Pearls, 52, 72
Peccadilles, 51
Rings, 72, 130

Robings, 196, 273
Roelas, Juan de Las, 1558-1625, 25
Pamunkeys King
Pamunkeys,
of the, 77
Queen of the, 22
Parasols, 214
choosing,
Pastors,
in
Massachusetts
the
Colony, 114
Roquelaures, 229, 303, 320

Rosettes, 96
139; advice
blue sash, 139; wigs, 143
on
Pennsbury, 140
Pepys, 109
Percy, Sir George, Governor
Colony, sj
Perfumed powders, 68
Perfumes, 202. 205
dress,
140;
(old song), 89
Ruffles, 139, 147, 195, 202

Ruffs, 26, 44, 159
of
Virginia
Periwigs or wigs, 64, 109, 140, 143, 147, 159,

299, 300, 307, 312, 315, 319
130,
Roundhead Puritans
Ruffled shirts, 332
Pcrriot, 267, 271

Perspective glasses, 193
Petticoat breeches, 61
Petticoats, 68,
218
Rollers,
Peddlers, 74
Penn, William,
193, 202, 217
Russell, 2A2
Sacque,
187, 201, 202
182.
Sailors, dress of, 328

Samare, 133
Sandys, George, 52
Sandys, Sir Edwin, 44
Sartori, Mrs., story of dress
worn by, 274
Scarfs, 214
Scarlet cloaks
worn by women, 263

robes worn by Judges, 103, 152, 335
312
Pikes, 99
Pillions, 263
Pigtails,
Scarlet
Scarlet stockings, 209
Planters' wives, dress of, 17th century, 71

Plymouth pilgrims, 83
Scent bottles, 202

Sedan chairs, 182
Pockets, 242
Sergeant-at-law, reign of Charles II,

reign of James II, 159
Servants, 18th century, 244, 246, 268
Points, 53, 54, SO, 8s, 104

Political badges,
189
Pomander, 202
Pompadours, 200
Pompons, 195, 2_iq
Posey dance, 28
Potpourri, 205
Pouncet box, 202
Powder, hair, 143, 193, 331

Preaching gown, 56, 114
Presbyterians, gown worn by, 114
Pritchard, Mrs. Frances, wardrobe of, 71
Provincials, uniforms of the, 346
Puritans of the Massachusetts Bay Co., 83, 84
Seventh
Day
'
156;
Baptists, 168
Shoe-buckles, 64, 139

at Salem, 90
Shoemaking
Shoes, 64, 68, 95, 96, 139, 143, 217, 328

Shifts,
130
51, 61. 64
Short-waists, 273, 274
Shirts,
Shoulder
belts,
99
Silver lace, 99
Silverware (17th century), 74
Skimmer
hat. 2.12
Slashed sleeves, jij 96
INDEX
401
Umbrellas,
Slaves, dress of, 245, 346

Sleeves, 94, 143, 20a, 317
Slippers, 214
Smith, Captain John, 44

Snuff-boxes, 202. 311
Snuff, use of, 31J
Spanish gentleman, dress of, 16th century, 26
Spanish painters, 25
Spanish point-lace, 143
Spanish settlers, 25
Spanish soldiers, 16th century, aj
Spanish women, dress of, 28
Spectacles, 133
Square toes, 139, 31
St. Augustine, 25, 26
Stays, 190, 217
Steinkirk, 147
Stock buckles, 300
Stockings, 641 68, 143, 214, 217, 299
Stocks, 332
Stoffelsen, Vrouentje Ides, inventory of clothing.
13
Stomachers, 143, 182, 202
Store in the Virginia Colony, contents of
Striped silk, coats of, 273
Stuyvesant, Peter, Governor
sterdam, 125
Sumptuous dress, 109
Surplices, 54
of
a,
73
New Am-
214, 320
Undergirdle, 130
Uniforms, military, 1775-1800, 340
Uniforms, naval, 1 775-1800, 340
Vandyke
Vandyke
collar,
52
edging, 51
Vargas, Luis de (1502-1568), 25

Velasquez, Diego (1599-1660), 25
Vests, 34
Virginia ball, 230
Virginia Company, 43
Virginia Infantry, uniform of the, 349
Vos, Madame Cornelia de, 134
Wagon
bonnet, 225
Waistcoats, 67, 143, 186, 303, 307, 324. 33 a
Walloons, the, 122
Walpole, Horace, 206

Wansey's, Mr., description of dress at the
theatre in Philadelphia, 272, 273
verses on dress,
Warren's, Mrs. Mercy, 271
272
Washington, George, dress of, first inauguration, 267; second inauguration, 328; uniform of, 349
Washington, Mrs., 268
Watches, 320
Waterproof capes, 320
Watteau, the artist, 130
Tailors, 53, 249
Watteau sacque, 1&2

West Point, Brigade Orders, 369
Tanneries, 95
Whig
Tabby, 68
Tassetts, 53
spectacles, 193
Temple
Tete moutonee, 196

Texas, 31
Theatre, first, in America, 238
Theatrical costumes, 238
Theatrum Mulierum, 89
Thrums, 53, 328
Tiffany hoods, 95
Tippets, 155, 193
Tow cloth, 263
Tower and commode,
181
Traders, 34
Tradesmen, dress of, 328

Training Day, iqq
Treaty of Paris in 1764, 36
Tuilles, 59
Turbans, 214
colours, 343
White, Bishop, anecdote of, 307
White, Mrs., inventory of, 200
Wig makers, 250
Wigs and
periwigs, 64,
iSQ, 209,
33j
log,
140,
3i 3">
Workingman,
Workingman,
of,
147,
319
71
dress of, 17th century, 53, 54

dress of, 18th century, 244, 328,
33J
Yankee
143,
3_L5_>
Willoughby, Mrs. Sarah, wardrobe

Winthrop, Margaret, 86
Wister, Sally, dress of, 257
Wooden heels, 68, 95
Wooden shoes, 68
Worked head, T04
Doodle, 242
Zinzendorp, Count, dress
of,
168
Authorities
Consulted
Calendar oj Virginia State Papers, Richmond, 1875.

History oj the Virginia Settlement, Captain John Smith, London, 1624.
First Discovery and Settlement oj Virginia, William Stith, Williamsburg, 1747.
Virginia Vetusta, Edward D. Neill, Albany, 1885.
Virginia Carolorum,
Edward D.
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Albany, 1886.
Economic History of Virginia in the Seventeenth Century, Philip Alexander Bruce,

New York, 1896.
Old Virginia and Her Neighbors, John Fiske, Boston, 1897.
History oj the Barbadoes, John Poyer, London, 1808.
A True and Exact Account
oj the Island oj the Barbadoes,
Richard Ligon, London,
1657Annals
Swedes on the Delaware, John C. Clay, Philadelphia, 1835.

Economic and Social History oj New England, 1620-1789, William B. Weeden,
oj the
Boston, 1890.
History oj Norwich, Connecticut, Frances Mainwaring Caulkins, Norwich, 1866.

History and Antiquities oj Boston, Samuel Drake, Boston, 1856.
History oj Lynn, Massachusetts, Alonzo Lewis and James R. Newhall, Boston,
1865.
Lije oj William Penn,
Samuel M. Janney, Philadelphia, 1852.
Tlu Germans in Pennsylvania, William Beidelman, Easton, 1898.

The Story oj Louisiana, Maurice Thompson, Boston, 1889.
Colonial Days and Ways, Helen Evertson Smith, New York, 1900.
Dutch and Quaker Colonies in America, John Fiske, Boston, 1899.
New
Jersey as a Colony and as a Slate, Francis Bagley Lee,
Social History oj Flatbush, Mrs. Vanderbilt,
History oj
New
York,
Short History oj
York, 188 r.
Story oj the City oj
Goode Vrow
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M.
tlie
J.
New
Lamb, New York,
New
York, 1902.
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English Colonies in America, Henry Cabot Lodge,
New
York, Charles Burr Todd,
New
New
York, 1888.
Manahatta, Mrs. John King Van Rensselaer, New York, 1898.

New York, 1901.
Discovery oj the Great Northwest, James Baldwin,
History oj the Antiquities oj

York, 1858.
St.
Augustine, Florida, George R. Fairbanks,
Description oj Louisiana in 1683, Father Hennepin,
New
Men, Women and Manners in Colonial Times, Sidney G.

405
New
York, 1888.
Fisher, Philadelphia, 1898.
406
Annals oj Philadelphia, John Watson, Philadelphia, 1829.

Annals oj New York, John Watson, Philadelphia, 1846.
Letters to
Franklin by his Family and Friends,
New York, 1859.

New York, 1899.
New York, 1894.
New York, 1895.
751-1790,
Child Life in Colonial Days, Mrs. Alice Morse Earle,
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Life oj Margaret Winthrop, Mrs. Alice
Dolly
M adison,
The Writings
Mrs. Goodwin,
oj
New
Morse
Earle,
York, 1896.
George Washington, edited by
Wm.
Chauncey Ford,
New
York,
1889.
Martha Washington, Anne Hollingsworth Wharton, New York, 1896.

The Quaker, a Study in Costume, Mrs. Francis Gummere, Philadelphia, 1902.
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Journal and Correspondence oj Abigail Adams, New York, 1841.
Diary
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VOmbrelle;
Son
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Altesse, la
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el le
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Autobiography and Correspondence of Mrs. De/aney, Boston, 1880.

Diary oj Madame D'A'rblay, London, 1842.
History oj the United Stales,
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Thomas Higginson, Boston, 1875.

W. Griswold, New York, 1855.
Court, Rufus
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New
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Discovery oj the Great West, Francis Parkman, Boston, 1869.
The
Spectator,
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Pepys' Diary, edited by H. B. Wheatley, London, 1896.

Evelyn's Diary, edited by H. B. Wheatley, London, 1879.
Table Talk oj Samuel Rogers,
New
York, 1856.
Nollckins and His Times, John T. Smith, London, 1895.
Trachien dcr
V biker,
A. Kretchmer, Leipzig, 1864.
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Pictorial History oj England, Charles Knight, London, 1841.
History oj English Dress, Mrs. Hill, London, 1893.
Annals
oj
Fashion by a Lady oj Rank, London, 1847.

Ten Centuries oj Toilette, A. Robida, London, 1892.
Yester-year,
History oj Fashion in France, Augustin Challamel, London, 1882.

Institutions,
Usages
Institutions,
Usages
el
et
Costumes du lyieme
siecle,
Costumes du i&ieme
Paul Lacroix, Paris, 1880.
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England in the Eighteenth Century, William Connor Sydney, New York, 1891.
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Memoirs oj Lady Sarah Lennox, London, 1902.
Civil Costume in England, Charles Martin, London, 1842.
407
Men, Maidens and Manners a Hundred Years Ago, John Ash ton, London, 1888.
Brides and Bridals, John Cordy Jeffreson, London, 1872.
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Their Majesties' Servants, or Annals of the English Stage, Dr. Doran, London, 1865.
Glossary of Words, Phrases,
Names and
Allusions, Robert Nares,
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Gainsborough, Sir Walter Armstrong, London, 1898.

Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Walter Armstrong, London, 1900.
Hogarth, John and Joshua Boydell, London, 1798.
Romney,
Sir Herbert
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The King's Peace, a historical sketch of the English Law
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Sketclies oj the Judicial
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History of the American Church, Rt. Rev. Leighton Coleman, D.D., Bishop
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History oj the American Episcopal Church, Rt. Rev. William Stevens Perry,
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Historic Dress in America (1507 To 1800) - Elizabeth McClellan 1904

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Historic dress

HISTORIC DRESS IN AMERICA

represents a soft brocade

gown which was

gimp of the prevailing soft red colour of the brocade.

ished with a fringed

to correspond with the falling

long in the back and

looped at the hips with knots of ribbon;

around the waist and sewed

At that period the hair was drawn back

undersleeves of fine lawn are finished with lace ruffles

close to the figure.

from the face and two curls hung

the shoulders from the knot at the back.

the Spanish and

Florida and Louisiana

ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR, PEN AND INK, AND HALF-TONE BY

OF THE PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL ART

TOGETHER WITH REPRODUCTIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS OF RARE PORTRAITS,

GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY

GEORGE W. JACOBS & COMPANY

by-gone days have been preserved intact and

our hands for the preparation of

documents of history on the subject of Dress

"to construe things after their fashion."

garments and also for the valuable

and family papers most generously entrusted

take this opportunity to express, in behalf of Miss Steel and

myself, our appreciation

and sincere thanks.

Introduction to Present Edition

history in costume and yet at

work was begun

there were many books to be

the time this

those stirring times, the dress of the merchants, the artisans,

and their families, there was absolutely no book

was necessary to collect the material for this book,

The Spaniards in Florida and California, 1565-1764

THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

The English Colonies

Maryland, the Barbadoes, and

the Carolinas, 1607-1700

New Hampand Rhode Island, 1620-1700

THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

Reign of Queen Anne

Reign of George III

After the Revolution

Children's Garments, 1 700-1800

After the Revolution

Barbadoes Colony about

Spanish gentleman, end of sixteenth century

Spanish soldiers with rapiers and arquebuses, middle of sixteenth century

Lent by Mrs. Rachel

St. Clair Miller.

Spanish armour of the sixteenth century

French costume of 1680

Pedro Menendez de Aviles,

Spanish dress, 1565

an English sea-captain, 1586

10. Jesuit missionaries

Captain John Smith, 1616