Featured Tours

Wonders of the
Empire

Lima - Cuzco - Machu Picchu - Sacred Valley - Lake Titikaka

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Peru Tours

Legacy of the Incas

Machu Picchu - Lake Intihuatana (hitching post of the Sun), or solar calendar, Machu
Picchu.
Titikaka
Photo: PromPeru Archive.
(10 days/9 nights)

Basking in the luxurious comforts and leisurely freedom of these

private excursions,
you'll discover no better way to experience Peru in style.

-- Stacey Koplin, LuxuryLink.com, September 2002

Sacred Sites of the
Incas
Machu Picchu - Lake

Land Price (10 days/9 nights)

Titikaka
(12 days/11 nights)

Imperial US$ 4,585 De Luxe US$ 4,240 First Class US$ 3,605
The land price includes escorted transfers, private excursions
with professional guides, entrance fees, indicated category of
accommodations, specified meals, all transportation except air
flights, and medical and travel insurance through age 59. Over
that age, there is a supplementary fee. All prices are per person
based on two people sharing a guest room.

Empire of the Sun

Map Hotels 10 Nights

Machu Picchu - Lake

Titikaka
Air Flights & Fares
(14 days/13 nights)
Air fares are in addition to the land price.
Lima - Cuzco: US$ 105
We will quote the international fare once we know your preferred
departure and return airports and dates.

Ancient Civilizations
of Peru & Bolivia
Colca Canyon - Machu
Picchu
Lake Titikaka
(16 days/15 nights)

Archaeological &
Ecological
Treasures
Lake Titikaka (or
Amazon)

La Puerta del Sol, Tiwanaku.

Photo: Anonymous.

From its roots in southern Peru to its glory in the imperial city of

Machu Picchu Galapagos

(18 days/17 nights)

Grand Tour of the

Inca Empire

Cuzco, you will experience the panoramic history of the Inca

Empire and of the civilizations that inspired the Incas to
greatness. Archaeological sites, museums, folklore, native
markets, traditional cuisine and colonial architecture compose a
cultural adventure to forever cherish.
All international flights arrive in Lima, a five-century-old
Spanish colonial city and home to the country's major museums.
A morning flight into the Andes takes you to Cuzco, the ancient
capital, where you'll have one day to explore its Inca and colonial
monuments, two days in the "lost city" of Machu Picchu and one
day for the reknowned archaeological sites and native markets of
the Sacred Valley of the Incas. On one evening, you'll enjoy a
folkloric show of music and dance.

After a spectacular rail adventure on the Orient-Express Train of

the Andes through magnificent mountains towering over the deep
Colca Canyon valleys of the meandering Huatanay River, and the gentle, rolling
Amazon
Altiplano, where vicua and alpaca are often seen; your tour will
Machu Picchu - Lake continue on and around Lake Titikaka: first with a cruise on your
Titikaka
private yacht to the floating Islands of the Uros and traditional
(22 days/21 nights)
Llachon, followed by a drive to the enigmatic archaeological site
of Sillustani. The next day, board a catamaran to the Island of the
Sun, the mystic cradle of the Inca Empire, on the way to La Paz.
Spend the following day at the Tiwanaku ruins, whose monolithic
architecture inspired the Incas; native markets; the colonial
quarter and a native folkloric show. Morning flight home,
completing your tour of the legacy of the Incas.

Ancient & Colonial

Capitals

This 9-night tour is designed for a one-week vacation: departing

for Lima on a Monday, Wednesday or Friday and returning from
La Paz one week later on a Wednesday, Friday or Sunday,
respectively. If you have more time, consider our 10-night
Legacy of the Incas, which adds a day in Lima.

Machu Picchu
(9 days/8 nights)
What Luxury Link has to say about Legacy of the Incas.

Inca Trail to Machu

Picchu

Machu Picchu
(10 days/9 nights)

Machu Picchu &

Galapagos
Machu Picchu Galapagos
(14 days/13 nights)

Archbishop's Palace and Lima Cathedral.

Photo: Bill Gass.

Amazon Bio-Trip
Manu National Park
(8 days/7 nights)

Ecuador Tours

Enchanted Isles of
the Galapagos

At ancient Peru's most exalted pilgrimage site, eroded adobe

temples speak of the pre-Columbian cultures that flourished in
the Lima valley, worshiping the earth god Pachacamac ("he who
gives life to the universe"). When the Incas arrived, they
respected the temples, way of life and religion of those peoples,
allowing them to worship their god, along with the Incas' own
god, the Sun, for whom the Incas erected a great stone temple on
a cliff above the sea. When the Spaniards arrived, they destroyed
the holiest place in their lust for gold, but found that the only
treasure it contained was spiritual.
The nearby city of Lima was founded by the conquistador
Francisco Pizarro in 1535 and reached its grandest splendor in the
17th and 18th centuries, when it came to be the capital of the
New World for a period of three centuries. A morning walk in the
colonial quarter is the best way to appreciate this World Heritage
Site, followed by an afternoon in Lima's museums of
archaeology, whose vast collections display gold, ceramic and
textile masterpieces of Peru's pre-Inca and Inca civilizations.
Peru's independence movement was led by Jose de San Martin of

Galapagos
(11 days/10 nights)

Argentina and Simon Bolivar of Venezuela. San Martin

proclaimed Peruvian independence from Spain on July 28, 1821,
marking the end of the colonial period and the beginning of the
republican era.

Friday, Day 1: Flight to Lima

Galapagos & the

Kingdom of Quito

Arrival in the five-century-old colonial city of Lima, "City of the

Kings" and the capital of Peru. Reception and escorted transfer to
your hotel in the garden residential district of San Isidro or
Miraflores, high above the Pacific Ocean and home to the city's
grand 19th century mansions. Overnight.

Galapagos - Andes
(15 days/14 nights)

Galapagos & the

Amazon
Galapagos - Amazon
(16 days/15 nights)

Chile Tours

Palace of Inca Sinchi Roca (left).

Photo: Carlos Sala, PromPeru.

Hotel Explora
Atacama Desert Torres del Paine

... the most renowned of the Peruvian temples,

(13 days/12 nights)

the pride of the capital, and the wonder of the empire, was at
Cuzco,
where, under the munificence of successive sovereigns,
it had become so enriched, that it received the name of
Coricancha,
or "the Place of Gold."

The Grandeur of
Chile

-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

Altiplano - Atacama
Desert
Lake District - Torres
Saturday, Day 2: Lima - Cuzco
del Paine
Easter Island - Central
Breakfast. Early transfer to the airport for the flight to Cuzco, the
Valley
capital of the ancient Inca Empire, called Tawantinsuyo, the
(21 days/20 nights)
"Four Quarters of the Empire". The name of Cuzco is a Spanish
version of the native word Q'osqo, which means the "Navel of the
Universe". Arrival, reception and transfer to your hotel. Morning
walking tour of the imperial city of the Incas to the ancient
Caribbean Tours
monuments of Qorikancha, the temple of the Sun; the fine Inca
walls of Calle Loreto, once again bearing its original Quechua
name of Inti Q'ijllo; the Ajlla Wasi, the House of the Virgins of
the Sun; the Stone of Twelve Angles; and the Huacaypata
(Leisure Square), more commonly referred to by its Spanish
name of the Plaza de Armas. All of these structures date from the
era of 1440 A.D., when Inca Pachakuteq, desiring a capital
befitting his great empire, pulled down the adobe city and rebuilt
Cuzco in stone.

Spanish Virgin
Islands
Vieques - Culebra Puerto Rico
(9 days/8 nights)

2004 Inka's Empire

Corp.

All rights reserved.

The Stone of Twelve Angles, Hatunrumiyoc, Palace of Inca

Sinchi Roca.
Photo: Heinz Plenge, PromPeru.

The new Inca palaces were in the form of "canchas", or

enclosures, formed by massive stone walls with living quarters,
temples and a courtyard within. Throughout Cuzco, you will see
these Inca stone walls, built upon by the Spaniards in colonial
style. One prominent example is Hatunrumiyoc, the palace of
Inca Sinchi Roca, which contains the Stone of Twelve Angles.
The Palacio del Arzobispo, or Archbishop's Palace, was erected
on the walls of that structure in the 16th century in an Arabesque
style. The pleasing beauty of this structure, with its carved stone
gateway, decorative wooden balcony, mosaics, pools and interior
courts may cause one to forgive the imposition. The same can not
be said for the most egregious example, the Church of Santo
Domingo, begun in 1534. The architecturally undistinguished
church and convent were built on top of the most important
religious building in Tawantinsuyo, the temple of the Sun, or
Qorikancha. However, the Incas eventually had their revenge
when the earthquake of 1950 collapsed much of the colonial
structure, revealing the ancient temples. At the Museo de Arte
Precolombino, you will see 450 pre-Inca and Inca masterpieces
dating from 1250 B.C. to 1532 A.D. Afterward, a lunch of typical
cuisine at Pucara.

Towers of the Cathedral and churches around the Plaza de Armas.

Photo: PromPeru.

The interior of the temple was the most worthy of admiration. It

was literally a mine of gold. On the western wall was emblazoned
a representation of the deity, consisting of a human countenance,
looking forth from amidst innumerable rays of light, which
emanated from it in every direction, in the same manner as the
sun is often personified with us. The figure was engraved on a
massive plate of gold of enormous dimensions, thickly powdered
with emeralds and precious stones. It was so situated in front of
the great eastern portal, that the rays of the morning sun fell
directly upon it at its rising, lighting up the whole apartment with
an effulgence that seemed more than natural, and which was
reflected back from the golden ornaments with which the walls
and ceiling were everywhere incrusted. Gold, in the figurative
language of the people, was "the tears wept by the sun," and
every part of the interior of the temple glowed with burnished
plates and studs of the precious metal. The cornices, which
surrounded the walls of the sanctuary, were of the same costly
material; and a broad belt or frieze of gold, let into the stonework,
encompassed the whole exterior of the edifice.
Adjoining the principal structure were several chapels of smaller
dimensions. One of them was consecrated to the Moon, the deity
held next in reverence, as the mother of the Incas. Her effigy was
delineated in the same manner as that of the Sun, on a vast plate
that nearly covered one side of the apartment. But this plate, as
well as all the decorations of the building, was of silver, as suited
to the pale, silvery light of the beautiful planet. There were three
other chapels, one of which was dedicated to the host of Stars,
who formed the bright court of the Sister of the Sun; another was
consecrated to his dread ministers of vengeance, the Thunder and

the Lightning; and a third, to the Rainbow, whose many-colored

arch spanned the walls of the edifice with hues almost as radiant
as its own. There were besides several other buildings... for the
accommodation of the numerous priests who officiated in the
services of the temple.
All the plate, the ornaments, the utensils of every description,
appropriated to the uses of religion, were of gold or silver.
Twelve immense vases of the latter metal stood on the floor of the
great saloon, filled with grain of the Indian corn; the censers for
the perfumes, the ewers which held the water for sacrifice, the
pipes which conducted it through subterraneous channels into the
buildings, the reservoirs that received it, even the agricultural
implements used in the gardens of the temple, were all of the
same rich materials. The gardens, like those described, belonging
to the royal palaces, sparkled with flowers of gold and silver, and
various imitations of the vegetable kingdom. Animals, also, were
to be found there --among which the llama, with its golden fleece,
was most conspicuous-- executed in the same style, and with a
degree of skill, which, in this instance, probably, did not surpass
the excellence of the material.
-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

Hatunrumiyoc, Palace of Inca Sinchi Roca.

Photo: Rony Caballero.

In the time of the Incas, this garden... was entirely made of gold
and silver; and there were similar gardens about all the royal
mansions. Here could be seen all sorts of plants, flowers, trees,
animals, both small and large, wild and tame, tiny, crawling
creatures such as snakes, lizards, and snails, as well as butterflies
and birds of every size; each one of these marvels being placed at
the spot that best suited the nature of what it represented.
There were a tall corn stalk and another stalk from the grain they
call quinoa, as well as other vegetables and fruit trees, the fruits
of which were all very faithfully reproduced in gold and silver.
There were also, in the house of the Sun, as well as in that of the
king, piles of wool made of gold and silver, and large statues of
men, women, and children made of the same materials, in
addition to storerooms and recipients for storing the grain they
called pirua, all of which, together, tended to lend greater
splendor and majesty to the house of their god the Sun.
All of these valuable works were made by the goldsmiths
attached to the Temple, from the tribute of gold and silver that
arrived every year from all the provinces of the Empire, and
which was so great that the most modest utensils used in the
temple, such as pots and pans, or pitchers, were also made of
precious metals. For this reason, the temple and its service
quarters were called Coricancha, which means the place of gold.
-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca,
1609

Colonial monuments on our excursion include the Church of

Santo Domingo, the 16th century Archbishop's Palace (now the
Museum of Religious Art), La Merced Church and Convent
(begun in 1536), the Cathedral (begun in 1556), and La
Compaia de Jesus (begun in 1576), The Cathedral, or the
Church of Triumph, was first built on what was the Suntur Wasi,
the Inca seat of government. Later, the basilica was built on the
hilltop of Kiswar Kancha, the Inca Wiracocha's palace.
Stroll around Cuzco -- your tourist ticket includes entrances to
many other sites and The Historic City of Cuzco map describes
each, all within a few blocks of the Plaza de Armas. We
recommend that you start with a walk to the church of San Blas
(1562), the oldest in Cuzco, located in the delightful artisans'
quarter of the same name. It houses an imposing pulpit from the
late 17th century that, for many, is the finest example of a carved
wooden structure in the world. Chiseled from a single cedar
trunk, the pulpit features angels, demons, saints, virgins and

beasts. Its sculptor is believed to have been a native artist by the

name of Juan Thomas Tuirutupa. The main altarpiece is Baroque
and exceptionally beautiful.
Nearby is the charming Plaza de las Nazarenas, surrounded by
superb 16th-18th century Spanish colonial mansions and religious
structures, such as The House of Cabrera, the Nazarenas Beguine
Convent and the San Antonio Abad Seminary, now the Hotel
Monasterio. Ask to walk around the beautiful cloister and
courtyard. Visit the Archaeology Museum in the historic Palacio
del Almirante, or Admiral's Palace, on the way back down to the
Plaza de Armas. Just to the left of the Cathedral on the corner of
the arcade that surrounds the plaza is the popular Cafe Ayllu,
famous its for superb milk products, such as leche asada, its
delicious apple pastries and memorable view. It's a good place to
relax and take in the spectacle.

Cathedral of Cuzco.
Photo: Jorge Sarmiento, PromPeru.

Before the Spanish conquest, the main square was twice its
current size. The part occupied by the present-day Plaza de
Armas was called Haucaypata and was surrounded by Inca
palaces, sculpted of finely-crafted stone blocks. On the southwest
side of the plaza flowed the river Huatanay. On the far bank was
the market square of Cusipata, now occupied by the arcade of
buildings known as the Portal de Panes. The only remaining

portion of that square is the beautiful and chaming Plaza

Regocijo, with its picturesque Queuales trees. Happily the
Spanish name corresponds to the original Inca meaning of "Joy
Square". Although the river was covered over with stone slabs, a
division remained: Haucaypata was reserved for the nobles,
Cusipata for the commoners. Yet, all could celebrate ceremonies
together in the great square of ancient Cuzco, from which two
intersecting roads led out to Tawantinsuyo, the "Four Quarters of
the Empire".

The ancient track in from the northwest, the famed Chinchaysuyo

road... met the track in from the southwest, the Contisuyo road, at
the Huatanay crossing. This junction produced a natural market
place where goods from the four regions of the sierra world
around were traded, later to be known as Cusipata (Joy Square).
Here at the crossing the Huatanay was shallow enough to have
formed a small marsh along the northern bank. When later filled
in during the days of empire-building, this riparian flat became
the memorable Haucaypata (Leisure Square) facing the market
area just across the stream. Today it is the Plaza de Armas.
--Burr Cartwright Brundage, Empire of the Inca, 1963

Of particular interest are the city's colonial houses, built in the

16th through 18th centuries, the more impressive being referred
to as "casonas" (mansions) or "palacios" (palaces). In addition to
the 16th century Palacio del Arzobispo, the House of Cabrera and
the Palacio del Almirante, described above, see the 16th century
House of the Four Busts, with a lintel carved out of a single piece
of stone, where one can see the busts that give this house its name
and the coat of arms of the Spanish Marquises Salas Valdez. It
was once the home of Francisco Pizarro and is now part of Hotel
Libertador.
Other important houses are the 16th century House of Inca
Garcilaso de la Vega (now the Museum of Regional History) and
the 18th century House of the Marquis of Picoaga (now Hotel
Picoaga), built between 1745 and 1751, on the wonderful Plaza
Regocijo, as mentioned earlier, the only remaining part of the
original Inca market square, called Cusipata (Joy Square).
Commanding in its scale and majestic in its design is the
immense 16th century House of the Marquises of Valleumbroso.
It is impressive for its sheer size, its monolithic Inca doorway, the
Renaissance-style carved stone ornament that splendidly adorns

its facade, and its exceptionally fine architectural details,

including a corner window. Nearby and charming, though
humbled by its neighbor, is the 18th century House of the
Marquis of Escobar (now Hotel de los Marqueses), built around a
traditional courtyard and retaining many of its antique
furnishings.
Cuzco is known for its 17th and 18th century religious paintings
in the native Cuzquea style. A notable collection is in the
Church and Convent of Santa Catalina, begun in 1605 and built
of the site of the Ajlla Wasi, the House of the Virgins of the Sun.
Another is in the Church and Convent of San Francisco (begun in
1645). Worthy of note are the Church and Convent of Santa Clara
(begun in 1558) and the Church of San Pedro (begun in 1668).

Saqsaywaman.
Photo: Walter Trumpfheller.

Afternoon drive with private car and guide to the fortress and
temple of Saqsaywaman. To truly appreciate Saqsaywaman, one
must realize that what may now be seen is only the base of a
colossal construction of a series of three, successively higher,
defensive structures made from enormous blocks of stone, joined
together with great precision.

Inside this triple enclosure, three tall towers were erected on a

large narrow ground. The largest of them was called Mayac
Marca, which means the round tower. It was built over a clear,
abundant spring, fed by underground canalizations, concerning
which nobody knew from where of how they came... This round
tower contained rooms with gold and silver paneled walls, on
which animals, birds, and plants figured in relief, as though in a
tapestry. It was here that the king lived when he came for a rest in
the fortress...
The two other towers, which were round, not square, in shape,
were called Paucar Marca and Sacllac Marca, and were used to
house soldiers of the garrison, which was composed only of Incas
by privilege, ordinary men, even combatants, not being allowed
inside this fortress, which was the house of the Sun, both its
arsenal and its temple...
An underground network of passages, which was as vast as the
towers themselves, connected them with one another. This was
composed of a quantity of streets and alleyways which ran in
every direction, and so many doors, all of them identical, that the
most experienced men dared not venture into this labyrinth
without a guide, consisting of a long thread tied to the first door,
which unwound as they advanced....
It would have been in the interest of the Spaniards to maintain
this fortress, and even to repair it at their own expense, because,
quite alone, it gave proof of the grandeur of their victory and
would have served as a witness to it for all eternity. And yet, not
only did they not keep it up, but they hastened its ruin,
demolishing its hewn stones, in order to construct their own
Cuzco homes at less cost.
They made their portals and thresholds with the big flat stones
that formed the ceilings, and to make their stairways, they did not
hesitate to tear down entire walls, provided they were based on a
few stones that could be used for steps.
And so, that is how the Spaniards destroyed the Cuzco fortress.
-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca,
1609

Tambomachay.
Photo: Rony Caballero.

Saqsaywaman was considered a fortress by the Spaniards, since it

was a place of defense, weapons and war. It was considered the
House of the Sun by the Incas because, at the same time, it was a
place of worship and sacrifice. Notably it was the site of the most
important ceremony of the empire, Inti Raymi, the festival of the
Sun. Its name means "Satiated Hawk" and it was built in
approximately 77 years (1431-1508) during the reign of Inca
Yupanqui and Wayna Qhapaj. It began being destroyed from
1537 until 1561, becoming the base for the building of the
Spanish Cathedral, churches and homes. "Neither the bridge of
Segovia, nor the buildings built by Hercules or the Romans, are
so worthy of being admired, as this" says the Spanish chronicler
and soldier Pedro Sancho de la Hoz, who saw Inca Cuzco intact,
along with Pizarro in 1533.
Further up the hill are the observatories of Laqo, Lanlakuyoq and
Kusilluchayoq; one of the few sites preserving its sculptures of
pumas, serpents, condors, llamas and female genitalia, carved
into the stone. It is located in a rocky outcropping with natural
caves that been carved to a minor extent to create ceremonial
platforms and symbols, such as an immense snake. The site is in a
singularly beautiful landscape and overlooks the Valley of Cuzco.
In contrast to these observatories, the animal sculptures at Q'enqo
(labyrinth), a religious sanctuary devoted to fertility, were

obliterated by the Spanish.

Puka Pukara (red fortress or watchtower, from the color of its
stones) is located at a strategic point along the road to Antisuyo
(the jungle quarter of the Inca empire). It served as a checkpoint
on the Inca road and was a military and administrative center. The
Inca's retinue received food and lodging here, when he stopped at
nearby Tambomachay (the bath of the Inca) on his way to the
Sacred Valley. Tambomachay is believed to have been dedicated
to the worship of water and its aqueducts bring spring water all
year long. The site includes a liturgical fountain and three terraces
with structures made from polyhedral blocks of stone joined
without mortar. The setting is bucolic and the spring water is
cold, pure and delicious.
Return to Cuzco. Tonight, typical cuisine and folk music at the
Inka Grill, on the lively Plaza de Armas. Overnight.

Citadel of Machu Picchu and the canyon of the Urubamba River.

Photo: PromPeru Archive.

Arrive like the Inca!

Consider our optional itinerary with an unforgettable arrival on
the Royal Inca Trail.

Sunday, Day 3: Cuzco - Vistadome - Machu Picchu

Breakfast. Early transfer to the station to board the train for a
zigzagging climb to a broad, fertile Andean plateau and descent
into the Urubamba Valley to reach Machu Picchu, the "Lost City
of the Incas". The Orient-Express Vistadome's recently renovated
carriages have panoramic windows, offering enhanced
photographic opportunities. Refreshments will be served. Upon
arrival, your guide will meet you and accompany you to the
Orient-Express Sanctuary Lodge, at the top of Machu Picchu and
next to the ruins.
From there, you'll begin a three-hour private tour, during which
you'll ponder the many theories about this mysterious citadel,
including the latest -- that it was the Inca's winter palace. The
word "ruins" is misleading, as the site is actually in a remarkable
state of preservation -- only the wood and palm-leaf roofs have
decomposed over the centuries. Surprisingly, the Spaniards never
discovered the sanctuary, and it remained unknown to the outside
world until Hiram Bingham's expedition in 1911. Its discovery
captured the world's imagination, and its allure has never
diminished. Your guide will provide you with a ticket for your
second day's entrance into the archaeological park.
Sumptuous buffet luncheon on the terrace of the Sanctuary Lodge
and the afternoon free to explore on your own. One memorable
possibility: the steep trail to the top of Huayna Picchu (Young
Peak in the native Quechua language, as compared to Machu
Picchu, or Old Peak). The vistas of the ruins, the canyon of the
Urubamba River and the Apus (mountain spirits) are
breathtaking, as you listen to the river, far below. Other
possibilities are the Temple of the Moon, the Inca Bridge or
Machu Picchu's multitude of hidden nooks and crannies.
Walk back to the hotel. From its terrace and nearby lookouts,
you'll be able to see the surrounding mountains, the sunset and
the southern constellations from high above the canyon of the
Urubamaba River. Dinner and overnight.

Central plaza, Machu Picchu.

Photo: PromPeru Archive.

The temples and royal chambers, throughout the Empire, were

lined with gold, and, in preparing the stone, they left niches and
empty spaces in which to put all sorts of human or animal
figures: birds, or wild beasts, such as tigers, bears, lions, wolves,
dogs and wildcats, deer, guanacos, vicuas and even domestic
ewes, all of which were made of gold and silver....
Imitation of nature was so consummate that they even reproduced
the leaves and little plants that grow on walls; they also scattered
here and there, gold or silver lizards, butterflies, mice and snakes,
which were so well made and so cunningly placed, that one had
the impression of seeing them run about in all directions....
In all the royal mansions there were gardens and orchards given
over to the Inca's moments of relaxation. Here were planted the
finest trees and the most beautiful flowers and sweet-smelling
herbs in the kingdom, while quantities of others were reproduced
in gold and silver, at every stage of their growth, from the sprout
that hardly shows above the earth, to the full-blown plant, in
complete maturity. There were also fields of corn with silver

stalks and gold ears, on which the leaves, grains, and even the
corn silk were shown.
In addition to all this, there were all kinds of gold and silver
animals in these gardens, such as rabbits, mice, lizards, snakes,
butterflies, foxes, and wildcats (there being no domestic cats).
Then there were birds set in the trees, as though they were about
to sing, and others bent over the flowers, breathing in their nectar.
There were roe deer and deer, lions and tigers, all the animals in
creation, in fact, each placed just where it should be.
-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca,
1609

Monday, Day 4: Machu Picchu - Ollantaytambo

Breakfast. Day free to explore on your own. Start by ascending
Machu Picchu for sunrise. The path that leads up from the ruins
to Intipunku (Sun Gate) is an hour each way. The Sun Gate marks
the end of the Inca Trail and is the ancient entrance to the
sanctuary. Its majestic panorama of the citadel, seen from on
high, is the first view that the Incas had upon arriving from
Cuzco. If you like, pay a modest trail fee to continue another oneand-one-half hours to the ruins of Wiayhuayna (Forever Young).
Buffet luncheon on the hotel's terrace.
You'll need to descend from Machu Picchu no later than 2:30 pm.
Walk to the station for the 3:30 pm train departure. Late afternoon
arrival in Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and
transfer to your hotel. Overnight.

Sacred Valley.
Photo: Alejandro Balanguer, Biosfera.

But the favorite residence of the Incas was at Yucay, about four
leagues distant from the capital. In this delicious valley, locked up
within the friendly arms of the sierra, which sheltered it from the
rude breezes of the east, and refreshed by gushing fountains and
streams of running water, they built the most beautiful of their
palaces. Here, when wearied with the dust and toil of the city,
they loved to retreat, and solace themselves with the society of
their favorite concubines, wandering amidst groves and airy
gardens, that shed around their soft, intoxicating odors, and lulled
the senses to voluptuous repose. Here, too, they loved to indulge
in the luxury of their baths, replenished by streams of crystal
water which were conducted through subterraneous silver
channels into basins of gold. The spacious gardens were stocked
with numerous varieties of plants and flowers that grew without
effort in this temperate region of the tropics, while parterres of a
more extraordinary kind were planted by their side, glowing with
the various forms of vegetable life skilfully imitated in gold and
silver! Among them the Indian corn, the most beautiful of
American grains, is particularly commemorated, and the curious
workmanship is noticed with which the golden ear was half
disclosed amidst the broad leaves of silver, and the light tassel of
the same material that floated gracefully from its top.
-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

Ollantaytambo.
Photo: Walter Wust, Terra Incognita.

Tuesday, Day 5: Sacred Valley - Ollantaytambo - Chinchero Pisaq - Cuzco

Breakfast. Private car this morning to the Ollantaytambo
archeological complex, a gigantic agricultural, administrative,
social, religious and military center in the era of Tawantinsuyo.
The Spaniards called it the Fortress of Ollantaytambo. The
architectural style of its streets and squares reflects Inca town
planning, with enormous polyhedral stones forming the walls and
trapezoidal doorways of temples and palaces, set along rectilinear
and narrow streets, which have been inhabited continuously since
Inca times.
In the upper and western part of the city, a mountain rises which
houses innumerable Inca constructions, such as magnificentlycrafted temples and terraces. A striking construction is the
partially destroyed main temple, believed to be the temple of the
Sun, whose carved stone front is made up of six perfectly
sculpted red monoliths. The mountainside on which this
enormous fortress is built is strategic: it dominates three valleys
that come together at this point. Across one valley, tremendous
blocks of stone lie abandoned along the way to Ollantaytambo,
their uncompleted journey marking the arrival of the
"Conquistadores". According to a legend that inspired the
Quechua drama Apu-Ollanta, the fortress belonged to a powerful
overlord who fell in love with Princess Cusi Coillor, daughter of

Inca Pachakuteq. It later served Manco Inca after his defeat by

the Spaniards at Saqsaywaman.

Weaver, Chinchero.
Photo: PromPeru Archive.

Drive to the village of Chinchero, on the altiplano, or highlands,

above the Sacred Valley and Cuzco. At an elevation of 12,340
feet, it rises against a superb Andean landscape, dominated by the
eternally snow-capped peaks of Chicon and Wequey Wilca. This
late 15th century agricultural center maintains its Inca traditions,
one being its composition of "ayllus", or groups of indigenous,
related families that work communally in the cultivation of their
fields.
Traditional weaving is preserved, in part, through the efforts of
The Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco. Another tradition
that traces it roots back to the Incas is the barter, or "trueque",
market. In Chinchero, people still meet to exchange their wares
and produce for that of others without the use of money, which

did not exist in ancient times. The market, noted for its textiles,
takes place every Sunday in the main square, located at the foot
of an Inca wall. Such traditions are not unique to Chinchero,
however. They still exist throughout the altiplano of Peru. The
pueblo exhibits a peculiar Andean-Hispanic architectural style
and paintings by the famous native artist Chiwantito, in the
Cuzquea style, dating back to the early Spanish period, hang in a
beautiful colonial church. Lunch of typical cuisine in the patio of
a country restaurant.

Pisaq.
Photo: Yutaka Yoshii.

Spend the afternoon at the colonial town and archaeological site

of Pisaq. In the town on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, a
popular handicraft fair take place under the main square's
century-old tree, with wares displayed on vividly patterned and
colored textiles. On Sundays, the traditional mass is held in
Quechua, the Inca language, at the local church, which is
attended by the village leaders from the surrounding
communities. They wear their typical costumes and carry their
traditional scepter of authority, or vara, that gives origin to their
name of Varayoc.

Varayoc, or village leader, Pisaq.

Photo: Bill Gass

On a nearby mountain, high above the hustle and bustle of the

marketplace, tower the imposing ruins of an ancient settlement.
Known as the Pisaq archaeological complex, it takes up the entire
mountain and is made up of different neighborhoods, or squares,
the main one being Intihuatana, which is admired for the
architectural skill of its constructions. Its central feature is a
monumental solar calendar on a promontory from which there are
spectacular outlooks. At the same time, the pre-Hispanic
cemetery is of great interest, as it is the largest found in this part
of the continent, containing thousands of tombs, some of them
looted. The complex is also famous for the colossal terraces that
circle the mountains and the fabulous watchtowers, which were
used as observation points as well as for control and military
defense.
Arrival in Cuzco. In the evening, enjoy the sparkling ambiance of
the Plaza de Armas at night and have dinner on your own at one
of its many picturesque restaurants. Overnight.

The homes of the Uros, upon the waters of the Lake.

Photo: Roberto Fantozzi, Rumbos Magazine.

... the worship of the Sun constituted the peculiar care of the
Incas,
and was the object of their lavish expenditure.
The most ancient of the many temples dedicated to this divinity
was in the Island of Titicaca,
whence the royal founders of the Peruvian line
were said to have proceeded.

-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

The Orient-Express Train of the Andes.

Photo: Benjamin Klatsky.

Wednesday, Day 6: Cuzco - Train of the Andes - Puno

Breakfast. Early transfer to the Orient-Express Train of the
Andes. This spectacular rail adventure begins at Cuzco and runs
south to the historic city of Puno, on the shores of Lake Titikaka.
The gentle climb is breathtaking. The first half of the journey is
dominated by magnificent Andean mountains, towering over the
deep valleys of the meandering Huatanay River. It then reaches
the gentler, rolling Andean Plains, where vicua and alpaca are
often seen. Sightseeing while on board the train is now easier
than ever, thanks to the new glass-walled observation car.
Excellent dining includes a three-course lunch, followed by
coffee served in the observation car. The journey is broken by a
scenic stop at La Raya, the highest point on the route.

Weavers of Llachon, Puno.

Photo: Domingo Giribaldi. PromPeru.

The banks of Lake Titikaka were the meeting place of three

cultures: the Aymara, the Quechua and the Spanish, the
combination of which becomes evident in their artistic and
cultural expressions. This unequaled legacy has resulted in Puno
being recognized as the Folkloric Capital of Peru. The city of
Puno perches in the southeastern highlands, or Altiplano, of Peru
at a breathtaking 12,550 feet above sea level. It is situated on the
shores of Titikaka, the highest navigable lake in the world. The
area, cold and uninviting by some standards, is rich with
spectacular landscapes and imposing archaeological ruins.
Around Puno's main square, or the Plaza de Armas, are the 18th
century Cathedral, the Casa del Corregidor, a traditional Puno
manor house of the 19th century, and the Casa del Conde de
Lemos, a colonial mansion in which, according to tradition,
Viceroy Conde de Lemos stayed when he founded the city on
November 4, 1668. Early evening arrival, reception and transfer
to your hotel. Overnight.

Chullpas of Sillustani on the shore of Lake Umayo.

Photo: PromPeru.

Thursday, Day 7: Puno - Lake Titikaka - Floating Islands of the

Uros - Llachon - Sillustani
Breakfast. Early transfer to your private yacht for a cruise on
Lake Titikaka to see the living culture of the Incas. First, visit the
Islands of the Uros, forty island-like packs of floating totora
reeds. Legend has it that Manco Capac, the first Inca, and Mama
Ocllo, his sister-consort, rose from the waters of Lake Titikaka to
found the Inca Empire. The royal pair are said to be the forebears
of the Uros, whose descendents now inhabit the lake's famous
floating islands. These lake dwellers continue to live like their
ancestors did, preserving their customs and idiosyncracies but,
above all, their own system of communal life.
Continue by yacht to Llachon, at the tip of the Capachica
Peninsula. In this pristine village, the indigenous people still
observe Inca traditions and laws -- gaining subsistence from the
land, practicing ancient weaving techniques and wearing their
traditional clothing. Llachon rewards the visitor with its native
culture, charming scenes of country life and glorious prospects
across the lake. Lunch of typical cuisine in the home of a local
family.
Afternoon drive to Sillustani. Its necropolis, which is one of the
largest in America and one of the most impressive in the world,
stands over a peninsula-like esplanade, surrounded by the
beautiful Umayo lagoon. The chullpas found here are large
funerary monuments built by the Collas about 2,000 years ago.

These quadrangular and circular buildings are more than 40 feet

high and their architectural design is a real challenge for balance,
as the diameter of the base is less than the top. The site,
surrounded by a landscape that has given rise to diverse and
mysterious legends, seems imbued with a magical quality. Return
to Puno. Overnight.

Totora reed boat sailing to the Pilkokaina Inca Palace, Island of

the Sun.
Photo: Transturin.

Friday, Day 8: Puno - Copacabana - Catamaran to the Island of

the Sun - La Paz
Breakfast. Early morning bus departure for a drive along the
south side of Lake Titikaka to the ancient religious sanctuary of
Copacabana, on the boundary between Peru and Bolivia. Along
the way, pass through the poetic pueblos of Chucuito, Juli and
Pomata, whose churches are jewels of colonial architecture.
Chucuito was occupied by the Pukaras, Lupakas and Incas, who
left constructions ranging from rustic to extremely fine. It is rich
in archaeological remains, such as the phallic temple "Inca Ullo"
devoted to the cult of fertility. A sundial suggests use as a solar
and astronomical observatory. The city has preserved its original
colonial layout, which mainly makes use of the foundations of the
pre-Inca urban settlement, but an earthquake has left the Spanish-

era buildings in ruins. Chucuito's nickname, "The Hill of Great

Value", comes from once housing a Spanish mint, the Cajas
Reales. Remnants of its colonial past may be seen at the church
of Santo Dominto and La Asuncion.
Juli, "The Little Rome of America", was once a great cultural and
religious center of the Altiplano. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it
was occupied by the Dominicans and, later, the Jesuits who, in
their zeal to persuade the native population, constructed beautiful
churches in the mestizo style: San Pedro, San Juan de Letran,
Santa Cruz and La Asuncion, in which are found impressive
examples of painting and sculpture in that style. Juli still keeps its
urban architecture and its unique traditional landscapes.

The Inca Ullo temple of fertility, Chucuito.

Photo: Domingo Giribaldi, PromPeru.

Pomata, called the "Philosophic Balcony of the Altiplano"

because of its sublime geographic location on the banks of Lake
Titikaka, is a propitious place for contemplation and inspiration.
The urban configuration of the small city maintains characteristic
forms of the past, such as its narrow and sinuous streets that adapt
to the irregular topography. Its principal attraction, the 17th
century, mestizo-style Temple of Santiago Apostol de Pomata is,
perhaps, the most beautiful in the south of the country, because of
its rich interior decoration, augmented by the architectural
expression of its pink granite construction. Beautifully carved
pink granite and gold-leaf altars also distinguish the18th century

church of Nuestra Seora del Rosario.

Copacabana remains the most important sanctuary in Bolivia,
with thousands of pilgrims coming to visit the Virgin of
Copacabana every year, also known as the Black Madonna. Visit
the Plaza Mayor and the famous Cathedral with its shrine to the
Virgin.

Sculpted stone head, Tiwanaku.

Photo: Anonymous.

Full-day catamaran cruise of Lake Titikaka, beginning with a

passage to the mythic Island of the Sun, the most enigmatic place
on Titikaka. This island has been identified as the birthplace of
several revered dieties, a source of magnetic energy, the vertex of
the Earth and the mystic cradle of the Inca Empire. The Incas
believed that the Sun arose each morning from Lake Titikaka and,
according to legend, the Inca couple Manco Capac and Mama
Ocllo appeared here and founded the Empire of the Sun. Of
interest is the fact that a type of corn considered sacred prospers

only on the Island of the Sun: the pre-Columbian natives believed

that whoever possessed a grain of this corn would never go
hungry. Buffet lunch on board.
Land at the Island of the Sun to visit the Inca Garden, the Inca
Stairs and the Inca Water Spring. The island's microclimate
provides the ideal location for the garden that during Inca times
was full of Andean flowers, water and trees. It was the Inca's
retreat. The Inca Stairs were created in order to reach the Inca
Water Spring. On the stair edges water flows through stone
channels. The Inca Water Spring is a natural spring with three
different openings from which flow water with different tastes.
This Inca-made fountain is said to be a source of eternal youth.
Visit the Inti Wata Cultural Complex and a traditional Kallawaya
shaman's ceremony before setting sail on a totora reed boat to the
Pilkokaina Inca Palace for an excursion of the ruins and a
demonstration of ancient sailing techniques. Return to the
catamaran for a passage through the Tiquina Strait to Chua. Bus
to your hotel in La Paz. Overnight.

Sunken courtyard of the Temple of Kalasasaya, Tiwanaku.

Photo: Gaye Plunkett.

Saturday, Day 9: La Paz - Tiwanaku - Valley of the Moon

Breakfast. This morning, drive in private car with your guide to
the Tiwanaku ruins, dated to 1580 B.C. At the peak of the Aymara

civilization in 700 A.D., Tiwanaku is believed to have been the

largest city in the world with more than 100,000 inhabitants.
When the Incas discovered the deserted city around 1200 A.D.,
they were inspired by the advanced agricultural techniques and
the monolithic architecture of the ancient Aymara. Here, you will
appreciate the subterranean temple of Kontiki, the Temple of
Kalasasaya and La Puerta del Sol (The Door of the Sun).
Afternoon drive to the Valley of the Moon, to admire its otherworldly rock formations. Return to La Paz for a walking tour of
the city; visiting the artisans' and the witch doctors' markets, the
16th century Church of San Francisco, Plaza Murillo and the
colonial museum in Casa Murillo, colonial-era Jaen Street, with
its interesting museums, and the residental quarters in the south.
Nocturnal tour with dinner of typical cuisine and a folkloric show
of native music and dance. Return to your hotel. Overnight.

Sunday, Day 10: La Paz - Home

Breakfast. Early transfer to the airport for your flight home.

Sican gold funereal mask, Batan Grande.

Photo: Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia
del Peru.

Thank you for choosing Inka's Empire Tours.

2004 Inka's Empire Corporation and its licensors. All rights

reserved.

Machu Picchu
A fortress city of the ancient Incas, in a high saddle between two peaks circa 50 miles
(80 km) NW of Cuzco, Peru. The extraordinary pre-Columbian ruin, 5 sq. Miles (18
sq. Km.) of terraced stonework link by 3,000 steps; it was virtually intact when
discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911.

Machupijchu
prologue
"After almost four hours by train, on one of the most impressive and spectacular
stretches in the world, from high, cold early morning plains down to lush vegetation
in the frequently suffocating late morning heat, one arrives at the foot of the mountain
Machupijchu. Then the eight kilometer road of thirteen zigzag hairpins in an acrobatic
bus takes us up the mountain, and one arrives at the hotel. From here, it is only a few
steps and the city opens itself. ..."

"To visit Machupijchu, you must prepare the soul, sharpen the senses. Forget for
some minutes, the small and transcendental problems of our lives, of modern...
man..."
Napoleon Polo
Casilla 435 Cuzco Peru

Follow these numbers for

lots more pictures of
Machu Picchu!

a spiritual Machupijchu
(Please continue!)

- 1 - 2- 3- 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12-

Besides the the reality of Machupijchu lives a

spiritual Machupijchu, from which we cannot remove
ourselves."

"...sacred."

"We enter with reverence because all here is sacred."

"Be advised ..."

"Be advised that I, being free, do not have to pay tribute to anyone, nor do
I believe there is a king greater than I. ..."

"However, I... "

"However, I will have the pleasure to be the friend of your emperor,

since he should be a great prince to send his armies throughout the
world. ..."

Inca Art

"But the Pope..."

"But this Pope does not interest me; much less will I obey
him, I being in the kingdom of my father and our religion
being good and I and my subjects are happy. .."

"Moreover, despite..."

"However, despite my being a son of Huayna Capac I cannot

discuss anything so wise and old. ..."

"The Christ..."
"The Christ that you speak of died, the Sun and Moon
never die, besides how do you know your god created the world?"
(This quotation is from Inca Atahuallpa's answer
to Fray Wicente Valverde, taken from Spanish
documents of the Indians Archives in Seville.
M.37. I show with no comment!)

Hiram Bingham

Additional pictures of Machu Picchu

Waynapijchu
The Young Peak

Additional pictures of Machu Picchu - 2

Additional pictures of Machu Picchu - 3

Additional pictures of Machu Picchu - 4

These pictures show artifacts used in ceremonial sacrifices of some pre Inca
cultures in the Peruvian Coastal Region. They can be attributed to the
Mochica-Chimu cultures, and they are not exactly Inca.

"FERTILITY"

A knife called TUMI, is an instrument for sacrifices. The lower part of the
piece has a kind of very sharp round knife. In Latin America, to hung a
TUMI on a wall means good luck and has become a symbol used in the
Peruvian Tourism publicity

THE LAST INKA SUSPENSION

BRIDGE:
A PHOTO ALBUM

The last Inka suspension bridge in existence

Each year in June, the people of the comunidad campesina of Huinchiri, along with
villagers from three other nearby communities, rebuild a suspension bridge across the
canyon of the upper Ro Apurimac. The bridge is a keshwa chaca made of ropes hand
woven of qqoya grass, a type of Andean bunchgrass. A steel girder bridge crosses the
canyon a short distance upstream from the keshwa chaca, so it is not necessary that
this rope bridge be rebuilt for any present-day transportation purposes. And yet the
Quechua people continue to build the bridge annually, as apparently they have done
since Inka times. It is their custom, and by maintaining the bridge they honor their
ancestors and Pachamama.
The road to the keshwa chaca crosses the high country between the Vilcanota and
Apurimac rivers, then makes a dizzying descent into the Apurimac valley via an
incredible series of hairpin curves.
The keshwa chaca from the road, as first glimpsed. (1998)
A closer view of the bridge from above. (June 1999)

The keshwa chaca nearly a year old and badly deteriorated; note how much the bridge
sags. (1998, shortly before the rebuilding festival.)
The newly rebuilt suspension bridge. (June 1999)
Crossing the Ro Apurimac on a bridge of straw. (June, 1999)
The scene is quite different in the rainy season when the Ro Apurimac is in full flow.
(Mar. 2001)
It takes a brave soul to cross the keshwa chaca when it has weathered for nine months
and the river is raging below. (Mar. 2001)
But Don is either brave or nuts!. (Mar. 2001)
Villagers from Perccaro show off their fiesta traje at the bridge. (Mar. 2001)
We met the chaca camayoc (master bridge builder), a native of Hunichiri, and gave
him a copy of the Dec. '73 National Geographic in which he found a photo of his
father, the chaca camayoc before him. (Mar. 2001)

The following photos were taken June 7-8, 2003 during the rebuilding of the
keshwa chaca and the indigenous festival celebrating the renewal of the bridge,
rebuilt annually by the comunitarios to honor their ancestors and Pachamama.
Saturday, the third day in the three-day rebuilding of the keshwa chaca, the main
cables are up, and the bridge is well on its way to completion. The main cables were
raised on Friday. Note last year's bridge, which has been cut and dropped into the Ro
Apurimac 60 feet below.
Quechua women from the nearby communities sit and chat as they braid ropes of
grass to be strung from the hand rails to the floor of the bridge. Earlier in the week
they braided huge quantities of similar thin ropes, which the men then twisted and
braided together to make the big cables that support the bridge.
On Thursday the main supporting cables were fabricated by the men. The next day,
these cables were strung across the river, raised, wound about the heavy stone sleepers
in the walled bridge platforms on each side of the canyon, and carefully adjusted to
hang evenly. Note in the photo that the left-hand and right-hand handrail cables (the
higher cables) are of distinctly uneven size, reflecting the different quality work done
by different communities.
Once the floor cables and handrail cables are completely ready, the next job is to tie
lightweight rope stringers from the two handrails to the four load-bearing cables,
making a unit of the structure, and creating sidewalls that make it possible to cross the
bridge without danger of falling off.

However, more than rope stringers are necessary for the bridge to hold its form when
being crossed. Inch-thick sticks are lashed with rawhide strips to the four floor cables,
forming rigid cross-ties that insure that the cables maintain their spread and cannot
become entangled.
A controversy arose late Saturday afternoon as to whether or not the mayor of
Quehue, one of the communities involved in the bridge rebuilding, had fulfilled his
promises of support for the project. This resulted in a work stoppage and an emotional
gathering was held on the road above the bridge site. After considerable palaver, work
was resumed and the bridge finished on schedule.
The final stage in the reconstruction of the bridge is to lay flooring mats over the four
main cables. While the sidewalls are being strung together, others are busy making
these mats of brush for the bridge floor.
The edges of the flooring, bushy when first tied together, must be trimmed. Note the
use of a footplow blade to trim the irregular edges of the flooring mats.
Carrying a rolled segment of floor mat onto the suspension bridge.
Once construction is completed, the bridge is dedicated. All throughout the
construction the process has been protected by several shamans performing
appropriate ceremonies nearby one of the bridgeheads, and now formal speeches are
made by local officials, and, in 2003, by a distinguished guest, the Director of the
Instituto Nacional de Cultura. The Director tosses ceremonial liquor at the conclusion
of his speech. Afterwards he was given the honor of being the first to cross the
renewed keshwa chaca.
Shortly after the Director of the INC and his entourage crossed the bridge, this
Quechua man in full traje crossed.
The finished bridge was then opened to all spectators and visitors, who were charged
a toll of one sol for the privilege of crossing! Note how little sag there is in the
renewed bridge, as compared to the year-old bridge in the photo at the beginning of
the webpage.

View of the Rutahsa Adventures group campsite, below the site of the keshwa chaca
festival. Ours was the only group of foreigners present at the bridge rebuilding and
festival.
A camping experience you'll only get in the Andes: a local shepherdess brings her
cows, sheep and llamas through our camp!
Rutahsa Adventures groups always bring school supplies, toothbrushes and
toothpaste, and children's clothing as a "mini-aid program" for the village children. In
this case, since there were four communities involved in the rebuilding of the keshwa
chaca, we sorted and divided the supplies into four parts, and filled up four duffel
bags the night before the bridge festival.

Sunday morning comes, tents are erected and crowds gather, marking the beginning of
the Festival of the Keshwa Chaca.
Many native dance groups perform at the festival. Apparently the dance groups are
judged and winners go on to dance at bigger festival competitions, and ultimately
perform in the Inti Raymi festival in Cusco.
During a break in the dance performances, the duffels of school supplies and
children's clothing donated by the Rutahsa Adventures group were presented to
officials of the four communities responsible for rebuilding the bridge. Our driver,
Eusebio, made the presentations inasmuch as he is a native Quechua speaker and
could express more eloquently than we could our gratitude to these Quechua people
for preserving their traditions and continuing to rebuild the keshwa chaca.
And more dance performances and celebration continued on into the afternoon, to the
delight of an audience spread over the hillside above the main festival area.

The remains of a more famous Inka bridge over the Apurimac are found well
downstream from today's bridge at Huinchiri. The most famous of all the Inka
bridges, that on the Inka highway between Cusco and Lima, crossed the Apurimac
near the bottom of a stupendous gorge many hundreds of meters deep. The bridge was
a key point for the Inka armies and for the invading Spanish Conquistadores as well.
After the Conquest this bridge remained in service for about four and a half centuries,
being renewed annually or biannually, until the it was replaced by a wire rope
suspension bridge at a different location. The famous Inka bridge, disused and
neglected, collapsed sometime in the 1890s. It was the collapse of this famous bridge
that inspired Thornton Wilder's 1927 novela "The Bridge of San Luis Rey".
American archeologist/diplomat/explorer E. George Squier crossed this bridge in the
1860s, and left us a beautiful, if hair-raising, description of the approach and crossing
in his wonderful book "Incidents of Travel and Exploration in the Land of the Incas"
(1877), now a sought-after classic.
Today not only is the bridge long gone, but the Inka road and bridge abutments are
difficult to locate. In the early 1950s, Victor Von Hagen found the bridge site
unreachable from the Cusco side, landslides having destroyed major sections of the
Inka road on that side. However the bridge site can still be approached from the
southwest side (Lima side) of the Ro Apurimac canyon by turning off highway 3S
onto the gravel road that descends to the Cconoc hot springs spa. The old bridge site
lies just three kilometers downstream from Cconoc, but is quite difficult to find
without a local guide.
The remains of the old Inka road, once located, can be followed down to a series of
short tunnels, perhaps better described as a single tunnel with windows and skylights.

This tunnel is believed to have been driven by the Inkas, as there is no known trail
around the tunnel site. However it has been enlarged in post-Inka times as
demonstrated by blasted drill holes here and there in the tunnel walls. Likely it had to
be enlarged in colonial times for the passage of horses and mules, which the Inka did
not possess. Squier described his passage trhough the tunnel in the 1860s.
From the trail just below the lower end of the tunnel, a view can be had safely of the
remains of the badly overgrown Inka road as it descends steeply down before turning
the corner to the bridgehead. Unfortunately, a landslide has carried away the road just
beyond the this point, and further descent is not for the faint-hearted. In fact, it is
distinctly unsafe as the unstable scree tends to want to move and carry anyone
attempting a traverse right on off the cliff into the river below. [Traverse photo
courtesy of Judd Lundt.] However, if the slide area is crossed a better view can be had
of the stonework supporting the Inka roadway clinging to the canyon walls.
Beyond the slide, the old road continues down into the pongo, i.e., the narrow inner
gorge, to the point where the bridge hung for so many centuries. On the Cusco side
the bridgehead surmounted a natural rock projection referred to as the estribo (stirrup)
by the Spaniards. From the bridgehead on the Lima wall of the canyon, one can look
straight across to the remains of the Cusco bridgehead. Apparently just a few loose
grey stones lying on the estribo (upper center of this photo) are all that is left of the
bridgehead platform.
From the historic bridgehead the view of the inner gorge is stirring; one can only
imagine (or read Squier's thrilling account) what it must have been like to cross this
greatest