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Winning Black Jack Strategies

Thank you for purchasing this eBook!

This guide was created to help you develop new strategies in Black Jack. With the rise
in popularity of these games in the 21st century, a new wave of online gambling sites
has flooded the internet. We recommend you read sections of this ebook that you may
be unfamiliar with. The strategies mentioned are simple and easy to understand, yet so
many players at the table do not use them. With proper gaming knowledge, you will
inevitably win and rule the table!
You may freely distribute or resell this eBook.

A brief history of Black Jack

Blackjack, also known as twenty-one or Pontoon, is one of the most popular casino
card games in the world. Much of blackjack's popularity is due to the mix of chance with
elements of skill, and the publicity that surrounds card counting (keeping track of which
cards have been played since the last shuffle). Blackjack's precursor was vingt-et-un
("twenty-one"), which originated in French casinos around 1700, and did not offer the
3:2 bonus for a two-card 21.
When blackjack was first introduced in the United States it was not very popular, so
gambling houses tried offering various bonus payouts to get the players to the tables.
One such bonus was a 10-to-1 payout if the player's hand consisted of the ace of
spades and a black Jack (either the Jack of clubs or the Jack of spades). This hand was
called a "blackjack" and the name stuck to the game even though the bonus payout was
soon abolished. As the game is currently played, a "blackjack" may not necessarily
contain a jack or any black cards at all.

Each player is dealt two cards. The hand with the highest total wins as long as it doesn't
exceed 21; a hand with a higher total than 21 is said to bust. Cards 2 through 10 are
worth their face value, and face cards (jack, queen, king) are also worth 10. An ace's
value is 11 unless this would cause the player to bust, in which case it is worth 1. A
hand in which an ace's value is counted as 11 is called a soft hand, because it cannot
be busted if the player draws another card.
The goal of each player is to beat the dealer by having the higher, unbusted hand. Note
that if the player busts he loses, even if the dealer also busts (therefore Blackjack favors
the dealer). If both the player and the dealer have the same point value, it is called a
"push", and neither player nor dealer wins the hand. Each player has an independent
game with the dealer, so it is possible for the dealer to lose to one player, but still beat
the other players in the same round.

Example of a Blackjack game

The minimum bet is printed on a sign on the table and varies from casino to casino, and
even table to table. After initial bets are placed, the dealer deals the cards, either from
one or two hand-held decks of cards, known as a "pitch" game, or more commonly from
a shoe containing four or more decks. The dealer gives two cards to each player,
including himself. One of the dealer's two cards is face-up so all the players can see it,
and the other is face down. (The face-down card is known as the "hole card". In
European blackjack, the hole card is not actually dealt until the players all play their
hands.) The cards are dealt face up from a shoe, or face down if it is a pitch game.
A two-card hand of 21 (an ace plus a ten-value card) is called a "blackjack" or a
"natural", and is an automatic winner. A player with a natural is usually paid 3:2 on his
bet. Some casinos pay only 6:5 on blackjacks; although this reduced payout has
generally been restricted to single-deck games where card counting would otherwise be
a viable strategy, the move was decried by longtime blackjack players.
The play goes as follows:
If the dealer has blackjack and the player doesn't, the player automatically loses.
If the player has blackjack and the dealer doesn't, the player automatically wins.
If both the player and dealer have blackjack then it's a push.
If neither side has blackjack, then each player plays out his hand, one at a time.
When all the players have finished the dealer plays his hand.
The player's options for playing his or her hand are:
Hit: Take another card.
Stand: Take no more cards.
Double down: Double the wager, take exactly one more card, and then stand.

Split: Double the wager and have each card be the first card in a new hand. This
option is available only when both cards have the same value. Sometimes two
face cards will be considered acceptable for splitting, as each is 10 points.
Surrender: Forfeit half the bet and give up the hand. Surrender was common
during the early- and mid-20th century, but is no longer offered at most casinos.
The player's turn is over after deciding to stand, doubling down to take a single card, or
busting. If the player busts, he or she loses the bet even if the dealer goes on to bust.
After all the players have finished making their decisions, the dealer then reveals his or
her hidden hole card and plays the hand. House rules say that the dealer must hit until
he or she has at least 17, regardless of what the players have. In most casinos a dealer
must also hit a soft 17 (such as an ace and a 6). The felt of the table will indicate
whether or not the house hits or stands on a soft 17.
If the dealer busts then all remaining players win. Bets are normally paid out at the odds
of 1:1.
Some common rules variations include:
one card split aces: a single new card is added to each Ace and the turn ends.
They are thus regarded as 11-point cards. No other denomination is subject to
this process.
early surrender: player has the option to surrender before dealer checks for
late surrender: player has the option to surrender after dealer checks for
double-down restrictions: double-down allowed only on certain combinations
of cards and usually only allowed if a hand consists of two cards.
dealer hits a soft seventeen (ace-six, which can play as seven or seventeen)
European No-Hole-Card Rule: the dealer receives only one card, dealt face-up,
and does not receive a second card (and thus does not check for blackjack) until
players have acted. This means players lose not only their original bet, but also
any additional money invested from splitting and doubling down. A game that has
no-hole-card doesn't necessarily mean you will lose additional bets as well as
original bets. In Australia for example, a player beaten by a dealer blackjack may
keep all split and double bets and lose only the original bet, thus the game plays
the same as it would if there were a hole card.
There are more than a few blackjack variations which can be found in the casinos, each
has its own set of rules, strategies and odds. It is advised to take a look at the rules of
the specific variation before playing. Many countries have legal acts and laws, which
determine how a casino game of Blackjack must be played.

If the dealer's upcard is an Ace, the player is offered the option of taking Insurance
before the dealer checks his 'hole card'.
The player who wishes to take Insurance can bet an amount up to half his original bet.
The Insurance bet is placed separately on a special portion of the table, which usually
carries the words "Insurance Pays 2:1". The player who is taking Insurance is betting
that the dealer's 'hole card' is a 10-value card, i.e. a 10, a Jack, a Queen or a King.
Because the dealer's upcard is an Ace, this means that the player who takes Insurance
is essentially betting that the dealer was dealt a natural, i.e. a two-card 21 (a blackjack),
and this bet by the player pays off 2:1 if it wins. It is called insurance since if the dealer
has a blackjack, the bet wins the same amount of the players Blackjack wager, such
that if insurance is taken and the player doesn't have blackjack but dealer does, no
money is lost. Of course the dealer can end up not having blackjack and the player can
still win or lose the blackjack bet.
Insurance is bad bet for the player who has no knowledge of the hole card because it
has a house edge of approximately 7%. Even for the player who has been dealt a
natural (a two-card 21) it is unwise to take Insurance. In such a case, the dealer usually
asks the player "Even money?" This means that instead of 3:2, the player with the
natural accepts to be paid off at 1:1. Thus it is exactly the same thing as buying
Insurance, losing the Insurance bet and getting paid 3:2 on the natural.
In casinos where a hole card is dealt, a dealer who is showing a card with a value of
Ace or 10 may slide the corner of his or her facedown card over a small mirror or
electronic sensor on the tabletop in order to check whether he has a natural. This
practice minimizes the risk of inadvertently revealing the hole card, which would give the
sharp-eyed player a considerable advantage. In countries, such as Australia, no face
down card is dealt to the dealer until it is his turn to play his hand. This makes the game
more complicated since the dealer must keep track of busted split bets since if the
dealer ends up drawing a BlackJack the players lose only their original bets and do not
lose double or busted split bets.

Basic strategy
Because blackjack, unlike other games, has an element of player choice, players can
actually reduce the casino advantage to a small percentage by playing what is known
as basic strategy. This strategy determines when to hit and when to stand, and also
determines when doubling down or splitting is the correct action. Basic strategy is based
on the player's point total and the dealer's visible card. There are slight variations in
basic strategy depending on the exact house rules and the number of decks used.

Your hand

Dealer's face-up card


9 10 A

Hard totals












Soft totals

9 10 A








A,4 A,5


A,2 A,3



9 10 A














2,2 3,3


The above is a basic strategy table for the most common 6- to 8-deck, Las Vegas Strip
rules. Specifically: dealer hits on soft 17, double after split allowed, multiple split aces,
one card to split aces, and blackjack pays 3:2.
S = Stand

H = Hit
D = Double
SP = Split

In some LV Strip casinos you may still be able to find the older version of the multi-deck
shoe game, where dealer stands on soft 17; those are usually high minimum ($50 or
more) tables. This version is much more advantageous to the player, but requires a
slightly modified basic strategy table (such tables can be generated using the external

Composition-dependent strategy
Basic strategy is based on a player's point total and the dealer's visible card. A player's
ideal decision may depend on the composition of his or her hand, not just the
information considered in the basic strategy. For example, a player should ordinarily
stand when holding 12 against a dealer 4. However, in a single deck game, the player
should hit if his or her 12 consists of a 10 and a 2; this is because the player wants to
receive any card other than a 10 if hitting, and the 10 in the player's hand is one less
card available to cause a bust for the player or the dealer.
However, in situations where basic and composition-dependent strategy lead to
different actions, the difference in expected value between the two decisions will be
small. Additionally, as the number of decks used in a blackjack game rises, both the
number of situations where composition determines the correct strategy and the house
edge improvement from using a composition-dependent strategy will fall. Using a
composition-dependent strategy only reduces house edge by 0.0031% in a six-deck
game, less than one tenth the improvement in a single-deck game (0.0387%).

Shuffle tracking
There are well-established techniques other than card counting that can swing the
advantage of casino 21 towards the player. All such techniques are based on the value
of the cards to the player and the casino, as originally conceived by Edward O. Thorp.
One such technique, mainly applicable in multi-deck games (aka shoes), involves
tracking groups of cards (aka slugs, clumps, packs) during the play of the shoe,
following them through the shuffle and then playing and betting accordingly when those
cards come into play from the new shoe. This technique, which is admittedly much more
difficult than straight card counting and requires excellent eyesight and powers of visual
estimation, has the additional benefit of fooling the casino people who are monitoring

the player's actions and the count, since the shuffle tracker could be, at times, betting
and/or playing opposite to how a straightforward card counter would.
Arnold Snyder's articles in Blackjack Forum magazine were the first to bring shuffle
tracking to the general public. His book, The Shuffle Tracker's Cookbook, was the first
to mathematically analyze the player edge available from shuffle tracking based on the
actual size of the tracked slug.
Other legal methods of gaining a player advantage at blackjack include a wide variety of
techniques for gaining information about the dealer hole-card or the next card to be
Card tracking is restricted when the casino uses a half-cut, or what is known inside
houses as 'The Big C'. This is when the shoe is cut halfway, meaning that only half of
the shoe will be played, so on an 8-deck shoe, only 4 decks will be played and
thereafter shuffled. As card tracking relies on the principles of elimination, the half-cut
makes it virtually impossible to eliminate or predict the remaining cards. Another
exception to card tracking is the introduction of automatic shuffler machines, thereby
making it impossible to track cards because the shoe is non-stop.

Advanced BlackJack Strategies

Like the doubling situation above, these are the hands that will make or break you.
There is one rule here hard and fast: don't split 5s, and don't split 10s for opposite
With the 5s you are turning a hand that should be counted as a 10 and either doubled or
hit into two hands of five each, that turn into potential problems when decorated with
7,8,9,or 10. With the two 10-value cards, you are asking for trouble taking a nice pat 20,
doubling your original bet size, and getting stuck with a 2-7 twice. If you don't think this
happens, ask any practitioner.
What you want to do is maximize your opportunities. Aces are the cards that you do
want to split, and this is a special situation. With the Ace, in most casinos, you are
allowed only one card after you split them. Obviously, you are hoping for a 10 on each.
The thought here is that if you don't split your Aces, you have a cumulative value of 2.
The danger here is that if you draw 2 10-value cards in a row, not at all unusual, you will
bust. You are also trying to maximize your opportunities by turning a single bet into
twice that amount.

Card counting
Basic strategy provides the player with the optimal play for any blackjack situation,
based on millions of hands played in the long run. However in the short run, as the
cards are dealt from the deck, the remaining deck is no longer complete. By keeping
track of the cards that have already been played, it is possible to know when the cards
remaining in the deck are advantageous for the player.
Card counting creates two opportunities:
The player can make larger bets when they have the advantage.
The player can use information about the remaining cards to improve upon the
basic strategy rules for specific hands played.
There are several card counting systems which do not require that the player
remembers which cards have been played. Rather, a point system is established for the
cards, and then the player keeps track of a simple point count as the cards are played
out from the dealer.
Depending on the particular blackjack rules in a given casino, basic strategy reduces
the house advantage to less than one percent. Card counting typically gives the player
an advantage of 0.5 to 1.5% over the house.
The fundamental principle behind counting cards in blackjack is that a deck of cards
with a higher proportion of high cards (tens and aces) to low cards is good for the
player, while the reverse is true for the dealer. A deck rich in tens and aces improves
the player's odds because blackjacks (which offer a higher payout than other winning

hands) become more common, the dealer is more likely to bust a stiff hand, and doubledowns are more successful.
Card counters raise their bets when the ratio of high cards to low cards in the deck is
skewed in their favor. They also make strategy adjustments based on the ratio of high
cards to low cards. These two adjustments to their betting and playing strategy can give
players a mathematical advantage over the house.
Contrary to the popular myth, card counters do not need savant qualities in order to
count cards, because they are not tracking and memorizing specific cards. Instead, card
counters assign a heuristic point score to each card they see and then track only the
total score. (This score is called the "count".)

The plus-minus count

Basic card counting assigns a positive, negative, or null value to each card (2 through
ace). As each card is dealt, the running count is adjusted by each card's assigned
value. There are multiple card counting systems in use, but a plus-minus count such as
the Hi-Lo system proposed by Harvey Dubner in 1963 and later refined by Junlian
Braun and Stanford Wong, is one of the more basic and illustrative systems.
In the Hi-Lo system the cards 2 through 6 are assigned a value of +1. Tens (and face
cards) through aces are assigned a value of -1. Cards 7, 8 and 9 have a value of zero
(so they can be ignored).
The Hi-Lo system is an example of a balanced card counting system, in that there are
an equal number of +1 and -1 cards in the deck, so a count of all 52 cards would result
in an end count of 0.

More advanced counting systems

The Hi-Lo system is considered a single-level or level-one count because the count
never increments or decrements by more than one. A multilevel count such as Zen
Count or Wong Halves makes finer distinctions between card values to gain greater
play accuracy. Rather than all cards having a value of +1, 0 or -1, an advanced count
might also include card ranks that are counted as +2 or -2. Advanced players might
additionally maintain a side count of specific cards such as a side count of aces to deal
with situations where the best count for betting accuracy differs from the best count for
playing accuracy. Ken Uston is known to have favored a fabulously complex system
(the Uston Advanced Point Count) that was a level-three count with multiple side
Special-purpose counts are also used when attacking games with nonstandard
profitable play options such as an over/under side bet.

The disadvantage of higher-level counts is that keeping track of more information can
detract from the ability to play quickly and accurately. A card-counter might earn more
money by playing a simple count quickly more hands per hour played than by
playing a complex count slowly.

Running counts versus true counts in balanced

counting systems
The "running count" is the running total of each card's assigned value. In a multiple deck
game, when using a balanced count like the Hi-Lo system, the running count is
converted into a "true count" which takes into consideration the number of decks in play.
The true count is the running count divided by the number of decks which haven't yet
been dealt.

Unbalanced card counting systems

In an unbalanced card counting system, conversion to a true count is made
unnecessary by the unbalanced nature of the counting system, but the count begins
with something other than 0. The starting number is a value based on the number of
decks being used. Popular unbalanced card counting systems include the "K-O" system
and the "Red 7" system.

Ranging bet sizes and the Kelly Criterion

Between 70% and 90% of the player edge when counting cards comes from placing
larger bets when the count is favorable to the player. (The rest of the edge comes from
changes to basic strategy based on the count.) A mathematical principle called the Kelly
criterion indicates that bet increases should be proportional to the player advantage. In
practice, this means that the higher the count, the more a player should bet on each
hand in order to take advantage of the player edge. Taken to its ultimate conclusion, the
Kelly criterion would demand that a player not bet anything at all when the deck doesn't
offer a positive expectation. When this is actually done in practice it is called "wonging",
after Stanford Wong, who popularized the idea in Edward O. Thorp's Beat the Dealer.

Expected profit from card counting

Blackjack played with perfect strategy typically offers a house edge of less than 0.50%,
but a typical card counter who ranges his bets appropriately in a game with six decks
will have an advantage of approximately 1% over the casino. This amount varies based
on the counter's skill level and the playing conditions, and the variance in blackjack is
high, so generating an hourly profit can take hundreds of hours of play. The deck will
only have a positive enough count for the player to raise his bets 25% of the time.

At a table where a player makes a $1,000 average bet, a 1% advantage means a player
will win on average 1,000 cents per hand. This translates into an average hourly
winning of $500 if the player is dealt 50 hands per hour.

Spanish 21 provides players with many liberal blackjack rules, such as doubling down
any number of cards (with the option to 'rescue', or surrender only one wager to the
house), payout bonuses for five or more card 21's, 6-7-8 21's, 7-7-7 21's, late surrender,
and player blackjacks always winning and player 21's always winning, at the cost of
having no 10 cards in the deck (though there are jacks, queens, and kings). With correct
basic strategy, a Spanish 21 almost always has a higher house edge than a comparable
BlackJack game. Another casino game similar to blackjack is Pontoon.
Certain rules changes are employed to create new variant games. These changes,
while attracting the novice player, actually increase the house edge in these games.
Double Exposure Blackjack is a variant in which the dealer's cards are both face-up.
This game increases house edge by paying even-money on blackjacks and players
losing ties. Double Attack BlackJack has very liberal blackjack rules and the option of
increasing one's wager after seeing the dealer's up card. This game is dealt from a
Spanish shoe, and blackjacks only pay even money.
The French and German variant "Vingt-et-un" (Twenty-one) and "Siebzehn und Vier"
(Seventeen and Four) don't include splitting. An ace can only count as eleven, but two
aces count as a Blackjack. This variant is seldom found in casinos, but in private circles
and barracks.
Chinese BlackJack is played by many in Asia, having no splitting of cards, but with other
card combination regulations.
Another variant is Blackjack Switch, a version of blackjack in which a player is dealt two
hands and is allowed to switch cards. For example, if the player is dealt 10-6 and 10-5,
then the player can switch two cards to make hands of 10-10 and 6-5. Natural
blackjacks are paid 1:1 instead of the standard 3:2, and a dealer 22 is a push.
Recently, thanks to the popularity of poker, Elimination Blackjack has begun to gain a
following. Elimination Blackjack is a tournament format of blackjack.

A note about other player's decisions

Many novice players (and even many dealers) erroneously believe that other player's
decisions (whether to hit, stand, double, etc.) affect their hand. You will often hear these
people say such things as "You took the dealer's bust card!" or "I busted because you
hit!". This can be observed in many casinos across North America when a player
doesn't bet in the expected way.
While it is obviously true that on any particular hand the previous player's decisions will
affect the cards you get, the fact is that this effect is random and unpredictable. In other
words, it is exactly as likely to help the next player as it is to hurt him. Therefore, it is a
mathematical fact that the wisdom of the decisions made by other players should be
ignored since it has no bearing on whether or not each individual player wins or loses
money in the long run.

Luck vs. Technique

The old casino saying goes something like: "I'd rather be lucky than good." I can
personally attest to one incident after another of players who made horrendous
decisions winning hand after hand, while sitting at the same table with a player who has
been around a while, but can't seem to win on 20.
It happens all the time. Naturally, the problem here is a momentary turn of events that
one wouldn't want to count on repeatedly. Anyone can get lucky, but it takes some
knowledge to be able to play and win on a regular basis.
Some people seem to be naturally lucky, while others appear the opposite. Most of us
fall somewhere in the middle. We have our lucky streaks and times when we can't
locate our own toes.
If you are losing steadily at a table, don't stay. Take a break to clear your head, go for a
walk, change tables, alter the situation. One response to this situation that heard timeafter-time is: "I'm due." That due factor has as much to do with reality as George
Foreman winning the Boston Marathon. Its doesn't happen that way.
If you're on a losing steak, don't try to force it. Live to play another day.

Money Management

Much is said concerning this topic, but little understood, and less practiced. There are a
cookbook full of recipes for disaster known as betting systems, almost all of which will
lead to a precarious chance of risking more and more money in the misguided hope of
recovering some money already lost.
One of the more popular betting systems says to double your bet until you win. Only two
problems here: you might not win until you hit the table maximum, or you might just run
out of money first.
Here's the scenario: you buy in for $100 at a $10 table and lose the first hand. This
system calls for you to put $20 down, and you lose again. The third hand now calls for
you to be $40, and you again lose. In order to follow this betting pattern, you need to
buy in for more money because you've exhausted almost of your original buy-in.
So you purchase another $100 worth of chips and bet $80, only to lose for the fourth
hand in a row, not all that uncommon. You are down $150, in just four bets. You buy
$150 worth of chips, bet $160 to double your previous bet of $80, and lo-and-behold,
you lose the fifth. (actually you feel like drinking one at this point.).
Buying in once more and betting $320, you lose that as well. You are now out $630, and
the thought of betting $640 to make your original profit of $10 seems a little far-fetched
and illogical, but you so desperately want to leave the table on a winning note, that you
do it. And lose for eight losses in a row! If you think it can't happen to you, think again.
(see the section on streaks.).
From your original $10 bet, you are now out $1270! Ouch! And the table limit is $1000.
Now what? You could slink away with your tail between your legs, or go to a table with
higher limits and hope for the better there. With the way your luck is running, you don't
want to try crossing the street in traffic. You may not make it to the other side.
The best money management system is time-honored and very simple: Bet less when
you are losing and more when you are winning. Easy to say, hard to do. The casinos
know that if they get you in a place where you are losing steadily, the chances are that
you might start to "chase" your losses with even larger amounts of money in an attempt
to get out of the hole you've dug. Advice: go slowly and don't try to hit home runs.
If you find that you are winning on a steady basis, whatever the reason, try betting a
little bit more. There is a saying around the casino: "I've won and I'm playing with their
money." It isn't their money. If you won the money, then it is yours to keep, and any you
lose will be coming from the same pocket. Do you think the casino managers talk in
those same terms, saying to each other, "Ah hah! We won this much today. Now we're
playing with their money?!" No way.
Follow this advice: Leave when you have won. If you bought in for $100 and you have
doubled your money, take it and run! The odds are with the casino that the longer you

stay and play, the better chance you have of losing it.

A Counting Strategy that works well with Online

At this point, you should understand how the game is played. The following is your best
strategy as determined by computer testing:
Always hit when you have 11 or less.
Always stand with a hard 17 or more.
On a hard hand: When the dealers card is from 7 to Ace, draw if you have 12 to 16.
When the dealers card is 2 to 6, stand on 12 to 16 except if the dealers card is a 2 or 3,
in which case you would draw.
On a soft hand do the following: Always draw to a soft 12. Stand on 18 except when the
dealer has a 9 or 10 value card. Stand on 19.
In most casinos, you may double down (double your bet) after your first two cards.
On a hard hand: Always double with 11, with 10 except if the dealer has a 10 or ace,
with 9 against the dealers 2 to 6 up card.
On a soft hand: with ace 2 to ace 7 double against dealers 4, 5, or 6. Also with ace 6
against 2 or 3 and ace 7 against 3.
Another play is the splitting of pairs. If your first two cards of the deal are the same
value, you may place a bet the same as your original, and play two hands.
Always split ace-ace, and 8-8. Never split 10-10, 5-5, or 4-4. Split other pairs only when
the dealers card is 2 to 6. These rules may seem complicated and difficult. However,
after playing at home, this basic strategy will require no concentration.
After you have become comfortable with the basic strategy, you may be able to shift the
odds in your favor. Although counting card is illegal in some places, simple methods of
advanced strategy can be easily employed.
When a number (greater than average) of 10s have been used, more 5 average cards
are present and this is an advantage to the dealer. If more 5 value cards have been
used, the advantage is in your favor (slightly larger bet may be in order).
Here is a way of counting high + low cards: Whenever a 2 or 6 appears, count = 1.
Cards 7, 8, 9, count 0. Count -1 for 10s and aces. In this manner, there are 5 low cards

(+1) and 5 high (-1) cards. If at any time the number obtained is say +5 or more, it is to
your advantage to raise your bet. If very few low cards are left, it may even make sense
to stand on 15 or 16 against dealers high card.
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We only feature reputable online gambling casinos, as we want you to have good online
gambling experiences. As with all facets of gambling, there are risks involved, and you should
never play if you cannot afford to lose the money you are betting. In order for a player to enjoy a
more pleasant and memorable time at a casino, whether it be a real casino or an online
gambling casino, it is very important to follow a basic set of gambling tips & guidelines.
Understand the game you are playing
This may seem like a very obvious rule, but you would be surprised by how many people that
place bets on games they dont understand. This rule may apply more to certain games (i.e.
Roulette) than other games (i.e. Slots), but generally speaking, it is more important for a player
to fully understand the rules of a game before betting on it. And understanding the strategies we
list on our site will give you another leg up on the casinos.

Budget your money

Place a limit on the money that you can afford to gamble with and lose. Never exceed that
amount or gamble with money that you cant afford to lose. Remember, credit cards aren't free
Never borrow money to gamble
To fall into the habit of gambling with borrowed money is one of the most serious mistakes any
person can make. Not only can one run the risk of falling heavily into debt and perhaps having
to sell ones possessions to payback the borrowed money, but the risk of alienating friends and
family members, or infuriating the money lenders should be enough reason to avoid this
practice at all costs.
Pace yourself
Avoid betting all your money in one hasty bet. Remember, the objective is to have fun and enjoy
yourself. If your gambling budget is $50, then place bets of $1 or $2 instead of betting the entire
$50 on one single bet. As long as the entire sum of money is not lost in one single bet, the
player has a chance to recover & win.
Know when to quit
The best time to quit is when you are ahead of the casino! Even if you are only up $50-$100, a
win is a win. That seems obvious, but you should know that in the long run, statistically the
casino will always win. Many players make the mistake of thinking that their streak of luck will
last forever and continue to gamble until they eventually lose it all. This is mainly the result of
overconfidence and greed.
Chasing losses
Chasing a loss is a term used to describe the act of trying to win back money that was lost
during a previous bet. The problem with this is that the player stands to lose even more money.
In this case, it is better to just accept the loss and quit or continue playing for the sole purpose
of just having fun.
Maintain a low profile
Whether you are playing for fun or money, winning or losing, always maintain a low profile at a
real casino. The main reason for this is that one never knows what types of unsavoury
characters may be present at a casino. It is in the best interest of every player not to draw
attention to his/her own money or winnings. Obviously this does not apply to online casinos.
Never gamble when you are angry or depressed, or experiencing emotional stress of any kind.
Emotional states such as anger and depression usually cloud a persons judgment and impair
his/her ability to play the games properly. A person who is experiencing an intense emotional
state usually lacks the ability to think as clearly as someone who is not.
Dont gamble alone

Friends and family members will usually tell you if you are spending too much, drinking too
much or not playing properly.
Take frequent breaks
You should always take frequent breaks to feel refreshed and alert. Stepping away from the
game or computer screen can be a good way to clear your mind and catch your breath. You can
go to the restroom, splash some cold water on your face, go grab a bite to eat, and come back
refreshed. Although this may not apply to a person who only plans on placeing a few bets, it
does apply to the gambler who intends on spending a considerable amount of time betting in a
Have fun
Gambling should be viewed as a fun and exciting recreational activity as opposed to a means of
making money. Even though most of us have heard of, or read about the occasional gambler
who won a big jackpot that changed his/her life, this is usually not the case for the majority of
players. The glitz and glamour of casinos were not built on the good fortune of winners.
Therefore always play for fun and never for the sole purpose of making money. Many of us have
friends who tell us about winning a few hundred or even a few thousand dollars at a casino. But,
those people don't generally go around announcing all the times they've lost.
Avoid alcohol
Never drink and gamble. Not only can alcohol impair ones judgement, but it can also inflate
ones sense of self confidence to the point where the person gambles away money which
he/she would never have gambled if he/she was sober. This is one of the main reasons as to
why some casinos offer free alcohol to their players.
Avoid distractions
Distractions can come in many forms from the occasional phone ringing, someone talking loud,
etc., and one should always be mentally prepared to ignore them in order to better focus on the
game. Additionally, the loud sounds and flashing lights of a casino (even online casinos!) may
look and sound very exciting, but they are not there to help you concentrate on the game. Try
not to become distracted.
By following these basic set of guidelines & implementing our strategies, one can enjoy his/her
visit to a real casino or an online casino, and have plenty of fun while minimizing the risk of
falling into any financial difficulties.