Crochet Tunisian Primer

I
Guide to
Tunisian Crochet
Tunisian crochet is making
a comeback and Interweave
Crochet is on the front edge
of developing Tunisian
crochet patterns. The Sunset
Ruana, from the cover of the
Winter 2009 issue, exemplifies the beauty that can be
made with Tunisian crochet.
This project is created with
Tunisian crochet worked in
short linked squares and can
be worked with a regular
crochet hook rather than a
long Tunisian hook. To help
you along, weve included
instructions for Tunisian
crochet. Dive in and learn
this fun and easy crochet
technique.
Welcome to a whole new
world of crochet!
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Tunisian Crochet Primer

T
unisian crochet, also called afghan stitch, is cousin to both knitting and crochet. As you might
expectgiven the family connectionsthe tool used for Tunisian crochet resembles both a
crochet hook and a knitting needle. The afghan hook, as its generally called, is a knitting needle
with a crochet hook on one end.
Every row of the basic Tunisian stitch is made by working two rows: the first row (worked
from right to left and called the forward row) creates a series of stitches on the hook/needle,
the second row (worked from left to right and called the reverse row) binds off the stitches
until only one stitch remains. The right side of the fabric is always facing you and the right and
wrong sides of the fabric are clearly different.
Tunisian Simple Stitch
Like regular crochet, every project worked in Tunisian
crochet begins with a foundation chain from which a row
of stitches is picked up and held along the shank of the
hook/needle. To work a practice swatch, make a chain of
twenty stitches. Then work the first row as follows:
techniques
step by step
Kathleen Power Johnson
r'PVOEBUJPO3PX QJDLVQTUJUDIFT
Insert the hook
through the top loop of the second chain from the
hook (Figure 1), yarn over and draw a loop through
(2 stitches on hook). *Insert the hook into the top
loop of the next chain stitch and draw a loop through,
leaving it on the needle. Repeat from *, drawing one
loop through each chain stitch. When you reach the
end of the chain, you should have twenty loops on your
needleone for each chain stitch.
Figure 1
Figure 3
Figure 2
Figure 4
Figure 5
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r 3FWFSTF3PX DPNQMFUFUIFTUJUDI
Yarn over the hook
and draw a loop through the first loop on the hook
(Figure 2). This single stitch is the equivalent of one
turning chain; it brings the hook up to the level of
the next row. *Yarn over and bring the hook through
UXP stitches (Figure 3). Repeat from * to end of row.
As you work from left to right, youll bind off a stitch
each time you draw a loop through the two loops on
the hook. You will end with one loop on the needle
this loop counts as the first stitch of the next row.
r 'PSXBSE3PX QJDLVQTUJUDIFT
*Bring the hook from
right to left under the first vertical bar created by
the first two rows (Figure 4) and draw a loop through
(Figure 5), leaving it on the hook. Rep from * to end
of row, drawing up a loop from under the last vertical
strand.
Work a forward row followed by a reverse row for Tunisian simple stitch. After a few rows, look closely at the
fabric youve made. Youll see a series of short stacked
vertical lines, separated by what looks like sideways vs
or chain stitches.
r'PSXBSE3PX QJDLVQTUJUDIFT
Bring the yarn to the
front of your work, holding it below and in front of the
hook. *Insert the hook from right to left through the
first vertical strand, as in the second pass of the forward
row of the simple stitch. Yarn over by bringing the
yarn up, behind, and then over the hook from back to
front (Figure 6). Draw a loop through, leaving it on the
hook. Repeat from *. As you work from one vertical
strand to the next, the yarn youre working with will
lie over the vertical strand being worked.
Figure 6
step by step
Tunisian Purl Stitch

Just like knitting, Tunisian crochet can be worked with
purl rows for a more textured effect. The yarn is held in
front of the work on the first forward row to create horizontal bumps. The second row of the sequence, a reverse
row, is worked just as for Tunisian simple stitch.
Figure 7
When you look at the fabric made with Tunisian Purl

stitch, youll still see the vertical lines made in simple
stitch, but this time they will be interrupted by short horizontal bumps made from the strand of yarn that crosses
over the vertical strands as you work.
Figure 8
Increasing
To increase a stitch at the beginning of a forward row
(worked right to left), pick up an extra loop by inserting
the hook from front to back under the horizontal strand
that lies between the loop on the hook and the first vertical strand (Figure 7), then yarn over and pull a loop
through. Work as usual in the next vertical strand. To
increase at the other end of the row, pull an extra loop
by inserting the hook under the last horizontal strand in
the row, just before the last vertical strand.
techniques
r 3FWFSTF3PX DPNQMFUFUIFTUJUDI
Work as for the reverse
row of Tunisian simple stitch as described on page 37.
Figure 9
Decreasing
To decrease a stitch, insert the hook under two vertical
strands at the same time (Figure 8), yarn over and draw a
loop through both strands.
Joining a New Color
When two loops remain at the end of a reverse row
(worked left to right), yarn over in the new color (Figure 9) and draw the new color through both loops on
the hook (Figure 10). To change color at the end of a
forward row, work the ch 1 in the new color.
Figure 10
Tunisian Tips
t 5PNBLFBMJOFPGOFBUDIBJOTUJUDIFTBMPOHUIFMFGU t $PVOUZPVSTUJUDIFTBGUFSFBDIGPSXBSE QJDLVQ
SPX
edge, when working the last stitch, insert the hook
under the last vertical strand and the strand that t *GUIFSTUGFXSPXTPGZPVSXPSLTQSFBEPVUPSESBX
lies right next to it, then pull a loop through.
in, rework them with a smaller or larger hook.
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Swatch #1 Work three rows of Tunisian simple stitch

(Tss) using color A. At the end of the last reverse row,
when two loops remain on the hook, change colors
by pulling through color B. Work one row in color B.
Change back to color A and work two rows. In other
words, work 3 rows A, 1 row B, 2 rows A; then repeat
the 3-1-2 sequence beginning with color B.
KATHLEEN POWER JOHNSON lives in Sarasota, Florida,

and teaches crochet (and knitting) workshops around the
country.
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44Interweave
Joe Coca
Swatch #2 Choose three colors. Work the stripes in

the same sequence as before, but this time change color
before beginning the return row by working the chain
at the end of the forward row in the new color.
Swatch 3
Swatch #3 Now try working a sequence of one-row

stripes, using just two colors and changing colors at the
beginning of each return row. This simple pattern of
alternate rows of two colors creates a tweedy pattern.
For subtle coloration, work the pattern in colors that
are closely related. For a more vibrant effect, work it
in colors with a strong contrast.
Swatch 2
Swatch #4 With color A, work several rows in Tss.

Change to color B for the beginning of the next forward row and work the entire row in Tunisian purl
stitch (Tps). In this case, the horizontal bar of the purl
stitch lies across the vertical thread in the contrasting
color of the previous row. Alternate rows of colors for
a woven or shadow effect.
Swatch 4
By changing colors at the beginning of the forward or reverse rows, you can create a variety of different
color effects. (Remember that one row of Tunisian stitch consists of one forward followed by one reverse
row.) Try out the four techniques described below, beginning with swatch 1 at the bottom, and illustrated
in the sampler to get you started on your own color experiments.
Swatch 1
techniques
step by step
Using Color in Tunisian Crochet
SUNSET RUANA
56/*4*"/
S H A R O N FA L K N E R
SHARON FALKNERS GORGEOUS CROCHETED ENTRELAC RUANA uses a fascinating, yet surprisingly simple Tunisian technique. The
plush, self-shading yarn does most of the heavy lifting, creating separate diamonds of color in a harlequin effect. Worked with a slightly
larger hook than normal, this Tunisian entrelac, usually quite dense, has terrific drape to make this your go-to winter outerwear.
G E T T I N G S TA R T E D
'*/*4)&%4*;& Back is 48" wide and 43" long;
front panels are 2212" wide and 43" long each
after blocking not including border.
YARN8JTEPN:BSOT-JNFSJDL
superwash merino; 175 yd [160 m]/134 oz
NVMUJ
CBMMT:BSO
[50 g];
distributed by Universal Yarns.
HOOK4J[F- NN
BOE. NN
Tunisian or standard hook without thumb

grip. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain
correct gauge.
/05*0/4 Yarn needle; rustproof pins;
CMPDLJOHXJSFT PQUJPOBM

GAUGE One entrelac square or 6 sts and 6
rows = 214" in tss.
Notes
Gauge can be measured on an
ordinary Tunisian simple st (tss) swatch
at least 4" (10 cm) square.
Use larger hook only for beg ch.
Project is worked with RS facing at
all times.
Tss FwP and RetP count as 1 row.
Tss RetP is worked differently in this
project than usual Tunisian projects (see
Stitch Guide).
When picking up lps in bind-off
(BO) row, insert hook through both lps
of BO ch, not vertical bars of row below
BO row.
When working FwP on rows after
base triangles, last st is worked through
both lps of selvedge edge ch for better
drape, smooth WS surface, and quilted
look.
Adjust length by adding or subtracting tiers, making same number of tiers
for front and back and ending with tier
2 before final tier triangles.
To cont color flow from back to
front panels, work a tier of right front
followed by same tier of left front.
Row 1: With smaller hook, insert hook

in 2nd ch from hook (next ch for successive triangles), pull up lp (2 lps on hook);
RetP (see Stitch Guide).
Row 2: M1 (see Stitch Guide) bet sts
from last row, tss in next vertical bar;
insert hook in next ch and pull up lp (4
lps); RetP.
Row 3: Tss in next 2 vertical bars, M1
bet last vertical bar and selvedge edge of
last row; insert hook in next ch and pull
up lp (5 lps); RetP.
last row, insert hook in next ch and pull
Stitch Guide
Tunisian simple stitch (tss) forward pass
(FwP): *OTFSUIPPLGSPNSJHIUUPMFGU
behind front vertical bar, yo and pull up lp,
leave lp on hook; rep from * across.
Tss return pass (RetP): *Yo and draw
through 2 lps on hook; rep from * across.
Make 1 inc (M1):*OTFSUIPPLJOTQCFUOFYU
WFSUJDBMCBST VOMFTTPUIFSXJTFOPUFE

pull up lp.
Bind off (BO): *OTFSUIPPLCFIJOEGSPOU
vertical bar, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw
through both lps on hook; rep from *
across.
Back
With larger hook Ch 80 loosely.
Tier 1 (13 base triangles):
left front
tCFH
left
front
here
right front
tier 27
tier 26
back
tier 3
tier 2
tier 1
X beg here
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66Interweave
Row 7: BO (see Stitch Guide) 6 sts; sl st

in same ch as last st from last row1
triangle completed.
Rep Rows 17 across13 triangles. For
last triangle, sl st in last free ch. Fasten
off.
Tier 2 (1 right-edge triangle, 12
squares, 1 left-edge triangle): Join yarn
in bottom corner of first base triangle
made (or in last edge st of previous
right-side triangle for successive tiers).
Right-edge triangle:
Row 1: Ch 2, pull up lp in 2nd ch from
hook and in same st as join or in edge of
first row of last tier for successive tiers (3
lps); RetP.
Row 2: M1, tss in next vertical bar and
in edge of 2nd row of last tier (4 lps);
RetP.
Row 3: M1, tss in next 2 vertical bars
and in edge of 3rd row of last tier (5 lps);
RetP.
and in edge of 4th row of last tier (6 lps);
RetP.
RetP.
RetP.
Row 7: BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last
tier.
Square:
Row 1: Tss across next 6 sts (see notes for
picking up lps on BO edge) and in next
st of last tier (8 lps); RetP.
Rows 26: Tss to end and in next side st;
RetP.
Row 7: BO 6 sts, sl st in next st from last
tier.
Rep Rows 17 of square 11 times. Leftedge triangle:
Row 1: Tss in next 6 sts and in last st
of base triangle or last st of previous
left-edge triangle for successive tiers (8
lps); RetP.
Row 2: Tss across (7 lps); RetP.
Row 7: BO 1 st. Fasten off.
Tier 3 (13 squares): Join yarn in first
st of last tier and work 13 squares as for
Tier 2.
Tiers 424: Rep Tiers 23 ten times,
then work Tier 2 one more time.

Neck: Tier 25: Work 6 squares, 1 final
tier triangle (see below), 6 squares. Note:
Middle square is replaced with a final
tier triangle to form the neck opening.
Right front: Tiers 2649: Rep Tiers
23 eleven times, then work Tier 2 one
more time. Note: Tier 2 is made up of
a right-edge triangle, 5 squares, and a
left-edge triangle. Tier 3 is made up of 6
squares. Final tier triangles: Join in first
st of last tier.
Row 1: Tss in next 6 sts and in edge of
next st of last tier (8 lps); RetP.
Row 2: Sk next vertical bar, tss in next
5 vertical bars and in edge of next st of
last tier (7 lps); RetP.
vertical bar and in edge of next st of last
tier (3 lps); RetP.
Row 7: Sk next vertical bar, sl st in next st
of last tier1 triangle completed.
Rep Rows 17 across6 triangles. Fasten
off.
Left front: Work as for right front beg Tier
26 at left edge of Tier 25s center triangle.
Finishing
Block flat. With RS facing, join yarn in
any corner, ch 1, sc in same st and in each
st or edge of each entrelac row across. For
outside corners, work 1 sc before corner,
ch 2, 1 sc in next st or entrelac row after
corner. For neck, sl st in first st of neck
triangle, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st,
sc in side of next edge triangle. Fasten off
and weave in loose ends.
SHARON FALKNERS great-aunt taught her to

crochet nearly thirty years ago, but she has really rekindled her love for the craft only in the
last two years. Now she enjoys the challenge of
trying new techniques (including knitting and
spinning), designing original works, and converting knitted patterns to crochet. That is, of
course, when her three young children allow it.
See more at sharescraftycorner.blogspot.com.
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Crochet Tunisian Primer

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Interweave LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Tunisian Crochet Primer

Kathleen Power Johnson

Tunisian Purl Stitch

When you look at the fabric made with Tunisian Purl

Swatch #1 Work three rows of Tunisian simple stitch

KATHLEEN POWER JOHNSON lives in Sarasota, Florida,

Swatch #2 Choose three colors. Work the stripes in

Swatch #3 Now try working a sequence of one-row

Swatch #4 With color A, work several rows in Tss.

Using Color in Tunisian Crochet

Tunisian or standard hook without thumb

Row 1: With smaller hook, insert hook

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Row 7: BO (see Stitch Guide) 6 sts; sl st

then work Tier 2 one more time.

SHARON FALKNERS great-aunt taught her to

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