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Joshs Definitive Guide to Temperature Control with


Titanium Wire

By Josh Krane

With 48 Comments

On 20 Jul | '2015

Hey, CRAFT VAPERS! It seems that many of you have decided to follow my advice and get
yourself a Temperature Sensing or Temperature Control device. Good for you! This means
you are likely starting to accept that temperature control is the future of vaping, and to borrow
from RipTrippers, that future is now. If you dont have a temperature sensing device, then move
along vaper, this article isnt for you. If you do have a TS/TC device, read on to learn how I get
the best results out of mine.
When temperature-sensing technology came out, it was based largely on nickel wire (known as
Ni200) because the resistance of nickel increases in-line with increases in temperature. As
temperature rises, resistance increases by a predictable amount, allowing chip makers to predict
the temperature increase based on changes in the resistance of the atomizer. All you need to
know is that someone smart out there discovered how to estimate temperature based on changing
resistance, and its pretty damn accurate.
The dirty secret is that Ni200 is really tough to work with. Its very soft and springy; so soft that
often just re-wicking a coil will cause it to bend and twist, effectively ruining the coil. You have
to wrap a spaced coil because contact coils screw up the resistance, but many vapers report
difficulty in doing so, and you certainly cant do a spaced coil on one of those fancy coil jogs
many of you use. The resistance of Ni200 is incredibly low, which means many wraps are
needed to get to the target resistance for temperature sensing. Its so low, in fact, that wrapping a
dual coil that actually fits in your RDA is nearly impossible. To make matters even worse, nickel
is not very healthy for you if it off-gasses, and there is a lot of debate about whether using Ni200
is safe for vaping at all. In short, Ni200 is frustrating to use and might not be very safe, so why
use it at all?
I have discovered that the solution to my frustrations with Ni200 is just to not use it at all.
Instead, I prefer using pure titanium (cue David Guettas song by the same name). Pure Ti wire
(100% pure, grade 1 titanium) is cleaner, medically pure, much stiffer, has a higher resistance,
and is overall much easier to work with than Ni200. The resistance is about double that of
Ni200, which means fewer wraps to reach your target resistance (not to mention a much easier
dual coil build), and its medically pure with no off-gassing (at least in the temperature ranges we
are talking about with temperature controlled devices). In other words, its the answer to my
temperature control prayers. Better than Ni200 and arguably better and cleaner tasting than
Kanthal or Nichrome, if used correctly, it will deliver one of the best vapes you have ever tried.
Before we get started, lets get the safety concerns out of the way. Ti wire has two big concerns
that you should know about, but both are easily avoidable. The first concern is that Ti can ignite
into flames a flame no fire extinguisher can put out. Scared? Dont be, because the
combustion temperature of Ti wire is far higher than you will ever reach on one of these devices
if you use them correctly. The second concern is the formation of Titanium Dioxide (TiO2)
which can be harmful to your health if ingested, especially when inhaled. TiO2 is easy to detect;
it forms above ~1200 degrees F (600C) and appears as a whitish / grey powder on the coils.

1200F may seem like a lot, but keep in mind a brightly glowing orange coil can easily get to
1300F or above. The easy solution: just dont glow your Ti coils and youll never form TiO2. If
you do accidentally glow your coils and see any white powder forming, you can easily clean it
off with alcohol. Those are the risks associated with Ti wire and as you can see, both are
relatively easy to avoid.

Fig 1. Everything you need for Ti build


With the safety concerns out of the way, lets move on to actually building a coil.
For starters, you need some wire. CRAFT does not currently sell Ti wire, so we get ours from
jewelry suppliers. Our favorite so far is Unkamen Supplies. We strongly prefer 24-gauge for
single coils and 26-gauge for dual coils. You can pick up 30-35 feet of either gauge for around
$10 USD. Regardless of where you get it from, you want 100% PURE GRADE 1 TITANIUM.

Yes Im yelling, because this is serious. Go ahead and stop reading now and order some Ti wire.
Dont worry, Ill be here when you get back.
Once you have your Ti wire in hand, the next thing you want to do is prep it. Dont worry, its
not hard. We suggest taking a little rubbing alcohol and wiping down the wire a little bit. Why?
Because many times there is machine oil left on the wire and it can ruin the taste of the juice that
you are vaping. Go ahead and give that wire a few rubs with some alcohol on a cotton ball, or if
you have some, use one of those alcohol prep pads.

Fig 2. Clean Ti wire with an alcohol pad to remove any machine oil or grime
Ok, so now we have clean, ready to wrap Ti wire, so lets wrap some coils! Steam Engine should
be your best friend here, but Ill share my personal recipe for success:

Single Coil:
I really prefer 24-gauge wire for single coils. I also prefer to wrap coils with a 3mm inner
diameter. They are easier to build that way, and give lots of space for wicking and a bit of extra
surface area. For the best compatibility across devices, I tend to prefer a target resistance of .
15ohms .25ohms. If you are working with a DNA40 device, you want to keep that target
resistance lower than .3ohms. The SX350J devices can go higher in resistance, but I would still
keep it under ~ 0.4ohms at a maximum.

Fig 3. Wrap a normal contact coil, as tight as you can get it


My ideal single coil is a 9-wrap with 24-gauge wire and a 3mm inner diameter. Go ahead and
wrap your coils the same way you would Kanthal. You want the coils tight together (contact
coils), not spaced like you would have to for Ni200. Dont worry if you dont get it perfect, you
will be able to tune the coil once its wrapped (well discuss that next). Dont torch or fire the
coils just yet; well cover how to do that after we discuss dual coils.

Dual Coils:
I prefer 26-gauge wire for dual coils. It has a higher resistance per inch than 24-gauge, and its
easier to hit the target resistance across the two coils. You are shooting for the same target
resistances that you are with a single coil: 0.15 0.25ohms, and again keep it under .4ohms at a
maximum.
My ideal dual coil Ti set-up is a 10-wrap with 26-gauge wire and a 3mm inner diameter. Just
like the single coils, you want to wrap them nice and tight, not spaced. Again, do not fire or
torch the coils at all. Were going to cover how to tune them next.

Fig 4. Untuned 9 wrap 24g Ti coil. Dont worry, mine isnt pretty before its tuned either :)
Tuning your coils:
Once you have your coils wrapped, go ahead and mount them just like you would any other coil.
Unlike Ni200, you dont have to worry too much about getting the wire squarely under the

screws in your posts as the resistance jumps are not as dramatic with Ti wire. Just make sure
they are in there nice and snug, and if you are using dual coils, make sure they are the same
distance away from the posts or the coils will fire unevenly. Once your coils are mounted, DO
NOT FIRE THE MOD.
Now we can start to tune the coils. Typically with Kanthal you would fire the coils until they are
glowing hit and then give them a squeeze to make sure they are glowing inside out. The problem
is that when you fire Ti that hot, you form Ti02, which we covered earlier and mentioned it was
nasty stuff. SO let us avoid that at all costs by not firing the mod.
Here is the method for tuning Ti coils safely. For starters, adjust your mod so its firing at 6-7W.
You can go a little higher; I wouldnt suggest going any higher than 10W, but I strongly
recommend you keep it in the 6-7W range. Start to pulse fire the mod (holding the button for 2-3
seconds, releasing, and repeating the process over and over). Once you have a little heat in the
coil, stop firing the mod and give the coil a little squeeze with tweezers (ceramic is preferred;
metal will work but DONT use metal tweezers while firing the mod or it will short!!!!!). With
some heat in the coil you should be able to squeeze the coils pretty tight to clean up any gaps you
had in wrapping it. Continue the heating and squeezing process until you are happy with the
coil. Fire it with longer pulses to ensure its heating from inside out.

Fig 5. Heat in Power mode at 6-10W maximum to get heat into the coil. DO NOT let the coil get
to glowing orange hot.
Ti will discolor under heat pretty quickly, turning blue as it heats up. Make sure the center of the
coil turns blue first. If it doesnt, go back to the heat and squeeze until it does. One trick that
works really well is to do the pulse firing with the lights off. You should see a dull, deep red
glow from the coils, which is fine; you just want to avoid the bright orange glow you get at
higher temperatures. Once you are happy with the coil, you are ready to vape.

Fig 6. Squeeze hot coils to tune and compress them for a tighter build and better results
Calibrating your device:
Before you start vaping on your new Ti coils, you need to calibrate your device. Let your coil
cool back down to room temperature. Five to ten minutes should be plenty of time to let them
cool. Screw in your RDA and lock in the atomizer resistance (older DNA40 devices do not have
an atomizer lock feature. If you have one of these devices, make sure its at room temperature
before you start vaping on it). Once your atomizer resistance is locked in, you can wick your
coils to your liking.

Fig 7. Lock in atomizer resistance when the coil is at ROOM TEMPERATURE


To set the temperature limit for Ti coils, you need to be aware that Ti and Ni200 heat at different
rates. If you are using a device with a Ti coil mode (IPV3 LI, SX Mini M class or EVIC-VT),
simply set the target temperature where you want it to be and you are good to go. On a device
that does not have a specific Ti wire mode (DNA40, IPV4 Snowwolf, M80, etc), you have to
make some adjustments. For these devices, you want to set a target temperature ~100F LOWER
than you would for a Ni200 coil. So if you wanted a target temp of 400F on a DNA40 device,
you would set your temp on the device to 300F. This will help to give you some padding to
account for the fact that Ti heats up more quickly than Ni200.

Fig 8. Make sure to set your temperature appropriately based on either the Ni200 or Ti01 settings
on your device
Once you have set up and calibrated the device, juice up those wicks and get to vaping!
How do I know if its working?
Testing your Ti build is pretty easy. Wrap your coils, tune them, wick them (but leave them dry),
and calibrate your device. Go ahead and dry fire it for 10 seconds. If you move the wick after
firing them, you should be able to see if your wick was singed or not. If you see any brown
discoloration, your temperature is too high. Go down in temperature and repeat the process. I
like to keep working my way up until I see a little bit of singed cotton, and then set my
temperature about 10 degrees F lower than that level.
Once your cotton is broken in (usually about the second time you need to re-drip), you should be
experiencing what I am with Ti coils: the cleanest tasting vape you have ever tasted. I get nice,

warm, dense vapor production from my Ti coils, and the flavor is amazing. Truly the best tasting
vape I have ever tried. The other bonus is that Ti coils last a LOT longer than Kanthal coils. I
literally have 2-month-old Ti coils in my Kennedy that work just as well as the day I wrapped
them. Your cotton will also last longer, because you arent heating it to the point where the
cotton starts to break down. Trust me, if you did it right, that 30 spool of Ti is going to last you
a really long time.

Fig 9. Happy vaping! Ti delivers the best tasting vape you have ever used
Have questions or need help with your build? Leave us a comment below and well help
however we can!

CRAFT CAST: Marina Vape founders Sam and Nick - Episode 20

Next post
CRAFT CAST: Kennedy Jones, Superstar DJ - Episode 19

Previous post

William Warren
July 22, 2015 at 3:09 pm | Reply
So far the best real world answers to ti wire questions.

Nass Rigas
July 22, 2015 at 7:38 pm | Reply
Excellent advice. Thank you. I tried Ti on a TS/TC device and didnt work. Maybe the Ti
I have is not the medical grade, maybe I fluffed up the coiling, maybe . Then I gave it
up when forum advice sided against use of Ti in TC mods. Now I am considerig a mod
that can accomodate Ti (Dicodes) and will order some Ti from the US. Then I will run
your method again and ensure this time it works. Ni is indeed a pain to work with, and
although I do manage to produce working coils the failure rate is high and taxing my
patience.
o

Derick
July 27, 2015 at 11:22 am | Reply
Thanks for this! I think the dangers of nickel havent been properly addressed by
the community especially the fact that ten to twenty percent of the population is
allergic to it and its toxicity and leaching concerns and we are just going full
force into this tc mode without any real science or testing. Titanium does seem to
be much safer so maybe Ill give it a go. I stopped using nickel after noticing
strange effects on my heart rate and blood pressure and muscle cramps after using
it.

John Ryan

July 27, 2015 at 1:52 pm | Reply


Thanks for the informative article. For the record, the IPV4 now has a setting for both
Ni200 and Ti coils in Joule (TC) mode. The recent firmware upgrade adds that feature to
the IPV4. The newer IPV4s comes with it installed.

todd
July 28, 2015 at 5:08 am | Reply
I did a dual ti01 build on my zephyrus for my sx mini m class. I have the 2.23 update.
The ti01 didnt work right with my build. I set the temp to 350 @35j and when I fire it
the temp immediately hours to 350. I can tell its not getting to that temp the vaper is
weak and the heat isnt there at all. I feel like Im breathing in air. I set it to nickel mode
the temp week not go about 300. I did the same dual build you did. My resistance is set at
.218 locked
In
o

werz
August 9, 2015 at 10:37 am | Reply
As I understood you use the ti01 mode. Use your normal temperature value as you
do with ni200 and everything will work fine. The recommendations of lower temp
setting are only necessary when you use ti in an ni only mod like dna40.
@the writer of this article.
You use unproven statements against ni200. There is no healthconcern known or
documented. People who have problems with ni have contactallergies and this is
different. What do you think the ni in nichrome wire means?
It is a shame when vapers argue in the style of ANTZ just stating things without
any scientific argument I call this scaremongering.:-)

Josh
August 10, 2015 at 9:48 pm | Reply
@Werz: The reason I called Ni into question (and I have called Nichrome
into question for the same reason) is that heavy metals including nickel
have been found in most vaping inhalation studies. We know its not
coming from the juice, so the assumption is that its coming from the coil
itself. Wether thats leaching or off-gassing, its a definite concern for me
personally and I think it should be for all vapers long term. One thing is

for sure, its not coming from the juice so it has to be coming from
somewhere.

Geoff
July 29, 2015 at 5:58 am | Reply
Thank you for the guide! Ive been wrapping Ti in spaced coils and avoiding dry burning
the coils at any wattage, but I followed this guide and have had much better results.

Noah
August 1, 2015 at 9:09 am | Reply
So if Im using a Vapor Shark rDNA 40 with Ti wire, is dry firing going to have a chance
at still producing TiO2, even if I have my TC set lower than the temperature that should
occur at?
Josh Krane

August 3, 2015 at 5:29 pm | Reply


As long as you are in TC mode, that will prevent you from any dry hits. If you are
in power mode, as long as your coils are not glowing orange, you are not
producing any TiO2. Glowing coils is the first sign that you may be at risk for
producing TiO2, so as long as you are (1) in TC mode or (2) in power mode and
not hot enough to glow your coils, you will be alright!

Lance
August 13, 2015 at 2:36 am | Reply
Josh,Thanks for the great titanium tutorial. Ordered the wire you suggested, followed the
instructions. My first build came in a little high, .34. Using an ipv 4 with the update.
Locked in set at 420 degrees. WOW what a great vape compared to nickel!! Really
enjoying it!!

Lance
August 13, 2015 at 2:38 am | Reply
P.S. Forgot to add vaping at 34Joules

Paulo Lamelas
August 13, 2015 at 2:46 am | Reply
I have an IPV4 with the update for Ti01 i tryed your method using Sthaelth Vape Medical
Grade 1 Titanium 26 Gauge 9 wraps on a 3 mm on an Subtank mini with 30/40J with the
Temp set to Ti01 200C and it gives me a burned taste after 4 secounds tryed less wraps
and same result. when its not burned its a metallic taste so i am not sure if its safe but not
enjoyeble.
Rick

August 18, 2015 at 1:14 am | Reply


Paulo,
The only thing I can think of based on what you have described is that maybe you
forgot to lock in your baseline resistance before firing the device the first time.
The coil should be at room temperature when you do this. Im working with a coil
that came out a little high (0.47), which is 10 wraps of Spider Silk titanium wire
(spaced, as I wrapped the coil before reading this article), and am firing it at 400F.
Its a great vape imo. Your temp is very close at 392F, so the problem isnt that
your temperature is set too high I dont think. Make sure your wire is Titanium
Grade 1, and DEFINITELY clean that wire with alcohol and then rinse with water
before wrapping a coil. You wouldnt believe the amount of machine oil that came
off my wire. Anyway, I hope something I said helps. Best of luck to you!

n8br88
August 18, 2015 at 1:05 pm | Reply
I have a Sigelei 150 watt tc. I have no problem building Ni200 coils and them working
correctly. I just do not trust nickel at all. So, I purchased 40 feet of titanium 28 guage. I
have tried several coils and no matter what, it reads .09 ohms and every time I go to fire
it, it reads, dry coil, no liquid. Does anyone have any suggestions, or any idea what is
going on? Thank you.
o

Josh
August 19, 2015 at 12:28 am | Reply
@n8br88 Try a 26 or 24g Ti wire, 9 wraps should get to about .2 .25ohms. I
think your Sigelei is balking at anything under .1

Joseph Kahl
August 18, 2015 at 4:40 pm | Reply
So I will be getting the IPV4S and also a roll of Titanium wire. My question is, when you
build your coils they have to be under a certain ohms to properly work?
o

Josh
August 19, 2015 at 12:29 am | Reply
Its all subjective, but I tend to like mine between .15 and .25ohms

Yusrizal Nizam
August 19, 2015 at 5:18 pm | Reply
I want to know
When u tuning ur coil @ 6-7watt
Its TS/tc mode is on or what.
Its ti glow when tuning is done at excellent center firing.
N last.
My coil turn to blue just like ur PIC,it right way I done.
Using dna40.
o

Josh
August 26, 2015 at 8:32 pm | Reply
in this scenario TC mode would be off and you are tuning the coils in power
mode, not joules mode.

Vincent
August 24, 2015 at 11:16 am | Reply
Hi,
I just got a question that i dont really understand while using Ti wire. I set my resistance
at 0.25 for VTi40 mods and firing at 390F with 20W. So when i vape it, it gave me a
cutting throat feeling. The sound of the firing should be at the perfect range. Anyone have
the same feeling?

P/S: i did not clean the coil with alcohol at all. Is that the reason im getting throat cut
feeling??
Josh

August 26, 2015 at 8:33 pm | Reply


You should definitely clean with alcohol, but that shouldnt be creating the throat
thing you describe. I would try doing a cotton burn test to make sure the temp
isnt set too high. I have run as low as 270F with Ti on a device in Ni200 mode.

Henrik
August 25, 2015 at 8:43 pm | Reply
Thanks for that tutorial , the best info i have found on Ti coil build
Josh Krane

August 27, 2015 at 9:25 pm | Reply


Thank you Henrik!

Thomas
August 27, 2015 at 2:50 am | Reply
Did everything as you instructed. My 10 wrap dual coil build came in at .14 using .5mm
Ti around a 2.5mm drill bit. This build barley fits the Cthullaleaves a tad bit less than
1mm between the coil and chimney with the coils centered over the air holes. Not sure
how Im going to get any more resistance without going to a single coil build. Ive never
tried a single coilmaybe I will on my next build. The only step that did not work for me
was the one to figure out at what temp the dry cotton would start to color. My IPV4s
immediately shut down with the dry quick message. I ended up just setting the temp at
300F and vaping at 30j. The flavor is slightly muted, but to be fair Ive literally only
taken about 7 hits and an still getting that new cotton taste. My very first experience with
TC vaping. Thanks for getting me started off on the right foot. I think Im going to like
this.

Anne
August 27, 2015 at 3:34 am | Reply

Thank you for this very very instructive guide


I have an IPV4S and a Snow wolf, I just got a Ti wire and will definitely try this

Anne
August 27, 2015 at 3:35 am | Reply
I also have an invader 50W can I use ti coil on this?
Josh Krane

September 2, 2015 at 12:36 am | Reply


Yes you can, just make sure to drop the temp on the device ~100F for Ti wire.

Ronald
August 30, 2015 at 6:29 pm | Reply
Just ordered 26g 35ft. off the website you provided! Last night I had spent $4 on 2ft of
Spider Silk, 26g (only to ruin the builds, I stopped reading your guide before getting to
the tune your coils section, only to finish the article later) at my local brick and mortar
shop. Thank you for the website!
Q: When you say to tune the coils and get them glowing right at 6-7W, should I still have
my iPV3 Li in Power mode to tune the coils? or are you talking about a conversion of
Joules to Watts, because Im not sure how that conversion works (e.g. 30 J = 6w)?
o

Josh Krane
September 2, 2015 at 12:37 am | Reply
Yes, power mode not joule mode to pulse the coils for tuning. Sorry if that wasnt
more clear.

Mario Martinez
August 31, 2015 at 5:06 pm | Reply
Great instructional. I cant wait to try this. Curious what RDA is that???

Josh Krane

September 2, 2015 at 12:36 am | Reply

Thata the Nectar Micro RDA

Iwanx
September 3, 2015 at 7:27 am | Reply
hi.. i learn a lot.. thanks just wanna ask.. im using ipv d2 sometime my firing not so
good using Ti.. because its say No Liquid i need to change the wick.. im new in this
vaping can u help me? my setting is 20J 420F0.4 ohm

geejun
September 4, 2015 at 1:32 am | Reply
Thank you so much for the very informative guide. What happens when its gunked?
How do I clean it and reuse the coil? Also I only have 28g Ti. Should I twist them to
increase the Gauge?
Thanks again

adib
September 5, 2015 at 3:32 pm | Reply
hi..thanks for the great info..
just wanna ask what kind other liquid form can be use ( other than alchohol ) to clean the
Ti wire before use it?

keep vaping
o

Josh Krane
September 8, 2015 at 11:24 pm | Reply

You could also use water, but we suggest just using rubbing alcohol

FG
September 5, 2015 at 5:54 pm | Reply
Problem Ive had with all temp builds is very little Vapor production before temp control
kicks in. With the ti coils Im getting the same type of results am using a rdna40 Vapor
flask and. 5mm ti wire, 3mm 9 wrap dual, . 15ohm running at 350f and 25w. I sure I
doing something wrong but cant figure out what. Any assistance would be much
appreciated
Josh Krane

September 8, 2015 at 11:25 pm | Reply


Should be able to bring the watts up considerably. Also, you might want to just do
a cotton burn test on that DNA40 and find the temp that actually burns the cotton
and set your temp to 10F below that level. Hope that helps!
FG

September 8, 2015 at 11:38 pm | Reply


Thanks Josh, Ill give it a shot.

Tom
September 6, 2015 at 8:48 pm | Reply
Really, trully life saving article, thanks alot my friend. I just intended to buy my first tc
mod,, any way I planned to get sigelei 150 tc considering the mod design, price range n
comfy aspect. As fas as I concerned that sucker do not support ti wire, now I know that
we can build a ti coil in non ti tc mod. Few days ago I borrow one of my relatives tc mod
to grasp the feel of tc n coil building it selves, n yes working with nickel200 is really
pain in the ass, 14 wraps to hit the target, it so soft so I often snap it when screw it down
in my RDA, n it does bends everytime I replace my cotton. Now I have a better
understanding of ti wire after I read this article n most of all a how to guide of it.
Really appreciate vapers who keen to write good stuff to help others. Thx its really
helpful

Tom Baker

September 9, 2015 at 1:54 am | Reply


Thank you for the instruction!
I followed your advice and placed my build on my Snow Wolf. Set the temp to 275 and at
80w, it was perfect! This was my first titanium build
Very clean indeed!
Josh Krane

September 9, 2015 at 1:55 am | Reply


Amazing! So glad you tried it and very happy to hear your results. Thank you for
sharing them with us.

Henry
September 9, 2015 at 7:46 am | Reply
This is amazing, through heavy reading, and trial and error (someone told me to do the
spaced coil as you would with Ni200) and everything is spot on. You shined some light
on a few things i was hoping i was doing right. Im probably going to rebuild my Petri
with your tutorial. I usually run my IPV D2 at 45 J and 475 F 10 wrap single coil with .29
Ohms. I was wondering if that sounds a little excessive? I believe the vapor production is
outstanding, my juices (even the ones that didnt taste so good) taste AMAZING, but
when i build my first single coil i ended up getting a hot spot and rebuilt it altogether. I
have a small question, does locking the ohms with cotton in make the mod read
inaccurately? Also i had just recently replace my coils from only 1 day of use (getting
gunky, tasting weird) ive also read that they can last from 3 weeks up to 3-4 months, am
i doing something wrong (by the information given) or do i just need to clean them? Once
again the tutorial is amazing thank you.
o

Josh Krane
September 9, 2015 at 6:40 pm | Reply
Henry, the numbers dont really mater as much as the all important question: did it
burn your cotton. I like to do a cotton burn test, and then set my temp to 10F
lower than where it singed the cotton. Some builds thats 400F, some builds that
490Fdepends on the build and the mod. The actual numbers on the screen are
all less accurate than if you burnt the cotton or not.

I always lock in my ohms with cotton, not sure if that makes it any more or less
accurate. In theory, dry cotton is non-conductive, so it shouldnt matter.
As for cleaning, gunky coils is more about the juice you are using. Some juices
gunk up coils much more than others. Id just clean them. If you are vaping and

not burning your cotton, you are doing everything right

piergarrettinni
September 9, 2015 at 10:23 pm | Reply
Very informative article. Many of the vendors of titanium wire Im finding indicate that it
has been acid washed. Could you recommend a quality vendor of TAG1?
Josh Krane

September 9, 2015 at 10:28 pm | Reply


The ones I like the best are the ones I mentioned in the article. Neither are vape
suppliers, but their Ti Grade 1 product is awesome. Unkamen Supply on Etsy and
Riogrande.com

Oliver
September 10, 2015 at 3:15 am | Reply
Excellent article! Tried it out and worked flawlessly! What are your thoughts on doing a
titanium build on an RBA for a tank?

kanthal v nickel v titanium v SS - Page 2


September 10, 2015 at 3:45 am | Reply
[] I was in the same boat as you BB, so confused by all the TC wires, how to build and
are they safe to use. I don't have all the answers, if you don't feel comfortable using
something then don't. I found this guy has a lot of info regarding Ti wire and I have
followed his build suggestions and I'm loving it. The taste is much cleaner than Kanthal
plus the builds last ages, easier to work with than Ni200. Anyways here is the link. BBG
How to wrap Ti coils for vaping []

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