Wind Turbine Towers

30/08/2015
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Some thoughts on Towers

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This page contains some thoughts and pictures about towers. The tower is perhaps
one of the most important parts of a wind turbine. It can also be well over half the
cost of a system overall. Guidelines suggest that a tower should be 30' above
anything within a 300' radius in order to keep the turbine up in clean, nonturbulant
wind. Air is very fluid (like water) any obstruction to the wind creates turbulance
(like the wake behind a boat). You cant see it, or detect it but it's hard on a wind
turbine and it costs lots of power. Oftain times the best time/money spent on a
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system is on a nice tall tower.
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resources (time and money). In some places there are few obstructions on the
ground, the ground is flat and an effective tower might be easy. Where we're
located (in the Rocky Mountains) we have fairly tall trees lots of ridgetops.. rocks
poking up, unlevel ground not a lot of money etc, so folks up here take what they
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Pictured above is an 80' guyed lattice tower with a 10KW Bergey machine on its top.
Scary climbing this sort of thing!
There are a couple common approaches to building towers. Free standing towers
require significant foundations, they have no guy wires. They are either lattice
towers, or made from pipe/tubing. Their main advantage I think is their appearance,
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and the very small footprint required. Most very large (utility scale) wind turbines
are on free standing towers, they don't seem very commonly used in smaller system
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probably because of their cost. Guyed lattice towers are common. Usually they are
erected with a jin pole or a crane the same equipment would also be required to
install the wind turbine. We have very little experience with these towers. Both
types mentioned above require climbing. From here on, we'll discuss simple towers
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Pictured above is a drawing of a simple 40' pipe tower. Of course many things could
be changed, it could be scaled up or down and there are other ways of doing
things. It's typical of several that we've built though and is very workable for a 8 10'
diameter wind turbine. It's made from Sched 40 steel pipe. Pipe comes in 21'
sections, so the tower itself is made from two lengths of pipe. Pipe is measured by
its inner diameter. The top section (2.5) dia slips down about 1 foot or so into the
bottom section (3" dia). Most wind turbines we build now use 12" of 2.5" pipe for the
yaw bearing, so at the top we need a stub of 2" pipe about 13" long for the wind
turbine to slip onto.
The jin pole is also from 2.5" pipe, as a rule I like the jin pole to be at least 1/3 as
long as the tower is high. The longer the jin pole, the easier it is to raise the tower.
If its too short, the forces really add up, and it goes up and down too quickly.
A VERY fine book on building
Longer is better. There is a gusset (2" pipe) in between the tower and the jin pole,
your own wind turbine from
it's length is not terribly important it serves to reinforce the point at which the jin
scratch, with stepbystep
pole is welded to the pivot. 68' long would be fine for that gusset, though we've
instructions. We know,
made them both shorter and longer. There also needs to be a heavy cable (3/8"
because we wrote it! Buy it
thick) that runs from the tower top to the end of the jiin pole. This cable takes all
here.
the force when raising, or lowering the tower.
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This tower has 2 sets of guy wires. The side guy wires should be inline with the pivot
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as they must support the tower while its being raised and lowered. The top set of
guy wires should be attached as near the top of the tower as possible such that the
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blades of the wind turbine cannot hit it. So for a 10' machine, we'd have the top guy
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wires about 5' from the tower top. The top guy wires take almost all the force from
more
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the wind turbine, so they should be heavier than the bottom ones. 1/4" thick steel
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cable is OK for a 10' wind turbine. I've used lighter stuff, but I wouldn't suggest
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anybody else try it. The stronger it is.. the longer it will last. The second set of guy
wires should be about where the two pipes join about 22' from the bottom. They
serve mostly to keep the tower rigid, they can be lighter stuff. I'd suggest 3/16"
cable.
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digging
digging
SelfSupporting Tower
digging
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Pictured above is the bottom of my tower. Notice the pivot is made from a simple
pipe over pipe arangement. Notice the window in the pipe where the power chord
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comes out. This allows the machine to pivot easily, and the length of the chord can
wind up (or wind down) over time without being a problem. We have a locking plug
more
here so that on occasion we can unplug the maching and allow the chord to unwind
if need be. If the site is not turbulant this is rarely required. With a new
installation, it's probably wise to check this frequently to get an idea how oftain it
needs attention. I check mine about every 3 months.. it's usually fine.
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The drawing above shows some thoughts about how to build a pivot from pipe. The
one pictured would be very strong I've made much lighter duty ones that worked
fine. It needs to support the weight of the tower thats all. The foundation on
which the tower/pivot sits is also not a big deal. Much more important are the guy
wire anchors. A simple metal 'foot' that can be staked down will suffice for the
tower, because all the force is straight down. Main thing is that it cannot slide
easily, and that it doesn't sink into the ground. If it sinks it will cause the guy wires
to loosen. So, a small concrete pad might be a nice tower foundation, but it's not
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required.
Also in the picture above is a drawing of the same tower in the 'down' position. You
can see how the side guy wires must go up and down with it. Its nice if the guy
wires dont loosen or tighten when the tower goes up and down. In a perfect world,
if the ground is perfectly flat and the guy wire anchors are at exactly the same
elevation and inline perfectly with the pivot, that would be the case. Otherwise
though, it's better if the guy wires tighten as you raise it and loosen a bit when you
lower it. That will happen when the guy wire anchors are slightly in front of the
pivot (by in front, I mean on the same side of the pivot that the tower tips towards,
and opposite from the side where you'd have the winch/truck). It will also happen if
the guy wire anchors are at lower elevation than the pivot.
Also shown in the bottom drawing are two 'guy wires' attached to the top of the gin
pole. This prevents the jin pole from tipping over. We dont have this on all the
towers we've put up, but it's nice insurance. They dont need to be real tight, I dont
think turn buckles are required and once the tower is raised, they can be removed
so folks dont trip over them. They are nice to have in place while rasing and
lowering though...
Again, like all things we have to work with what we have. Up here its quite rocky,
the ground is almost never level so we work around what we have. My tower has one
guy wire much higher than the pivot, one is much lower. My pivot is fairly loose (it
has slop to allow the tower to tip some to the side) and when going up or down, it's
supported only be 1 of the side guy wires and it leans to the side. Not ideal but
workable. Its very important when raising a tower for the first time to go very
slowly, pay close attention the guy wires. If both side guy wires seem to be tight
time to stop, lower the tower again, make adjustments. Once a guy wire gets tight
you have no way of knowing how much force is on it, it's quite easy to break one, or
tear it out of its anchor.
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Whenever raising a tower, it's important to double and triple check *everything*
before you start. Its important to make sure everyone is out of the 'fall zone'. There
could always be surprises and its best to prepare for the worst with these things.
Pictured above is Wards tower first time we ever raised it. We double checked
everything, only to find out afterwards that we'd forgot to hook up guy wires on the
west side. We also didn't test raise it first, we were confident enough that we put
the machine on it. The only thing we did correctly here... was to be sure that
nobody (including dogs) was anywhere near the fall zone when we raised it .
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Here is a picture of a guy wire anchor. This is a nice way to anchor into solid rock.
We drill a hole (usually 6" deep), and epoxy rebar into it. Not shown very well here,
but each guy wire is attached to a turn buckle, and inside the loop we have a
'thimble' which keeps the turnbuckle from wearing into the steel cable. The guy
wire is fastened with 3 cable clamps.
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Here's a tilt up tower in a rather rocky location. Here, we were able to mount all the
guy wires, the pivot, and the winch into solid granit.
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This inexpensive worm gear winch works nicely for small towers. You can take off
the handle and fit a 1/2" drill to it to speed things up. These imported winches cost
$20 $30. They work nicely, though it wouldn't hurt to have something a bit heavier
for the tower described above in the drawings. The one in the picture above is
welded to rebar that's epoxied into the rock.
Pictured above is a tower almost exactly like the one in the drawings. Notice at the
end we've welded 'feet' onto it that hold the end of it off the ground. Also notice
the pivot a simple 'H' shape made from pipe that sits on the ground. We staked
this one down it worked fine.
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Here is another shot of the same tower that shows the 'foot' a bit better. It's very
helpful to have this while working on the machine. Another option is to have a
'stand' on the ground that the tower lands on. Ideally, it should hold the tower up
enough so that the blades of the wind turbine can never hit the ground.
Here is a nice pivot on a concrete foundation. This is under a 40' tower.
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Concrete makes for a nice guy wire anchor. Here George built a nice form, and cast
a rebar loop into it to hook his turn buckles onto. Another possibility for guy wire
anchors is a 'dead man'. Take a log (or something large and heavy) wrap a chain
around it, and bury it. If it's large enough it'll be fine.
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At another very rocky site, we built the pivot for the tower between two rocks. It's
supported on each side by several pieces of rebar that are epoxied into the rock.
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Tim didn't have rocks handy for guy wires, and simply pounded 4' steaks made from
2" pipe into the ground. Lots of pounding, but they seem quite solid and his 10'
machine works fine with it. This may not be such a good option if the soil was loose,
or wet. Up here it's dry/rocky and the soil is dense/clay like just a few inches down
and it works fine.
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Pictured above is a machine assembled on the end of its tower. Before we put the
machine on, we need to put lots of grease on the tower stub. I also like to make a
sort of 'bushing' that goes between the tower top, and the wind turbine so that the
pipe stub does not wear into the top of the wind turbine.
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Here is the bushing assembly we make for the tower stub. Basicly its just a cap that
slips into the tower a couple inches. There is a large (1") diameter hole in the top.
We put that in the tower, then we put the bronze bushing (a thrust bearing, a steel
washer, or plastic bushing is also fine) over that. Then we run the wire through all
that and put the machine over the top.
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Thats how the same assembly shown above looks when its in the tower top. This is a
good, simple/cheap solution. In the past I've put machines right over the pipe stub.
They'd work fine usually for about 1 year, then the pipe would be wearing into the
top of the wind turbine, sometimes all the way through but always enough to
make them stiff to yaw. This setup prevents that and should hold up for a very long
time.
So those are just some thoughts and experiences with towers. Again, it's worth
considering the scope of the project before you start. The tower is at least half the
project if you're building your own system, and it's best to resign yourself to that
fact from the very beginning. It may even be wise for some folks, to build the tower
first! Seems like a lot of people build their wind turbines and never get around to
the tower part. In my opinion the tower is the hard work, the wind turbine is the
fun part. Up here oftain times we have a bit of a 'tower raising' party it can go
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quickly and be lots of fun if you can rope a few freinds and neighbors into it.
Below is our older page on towers, with a link to the

Spanish translation. Still a good read, and still valid
information.
This page is about an older project of ours. We keep ALL of our projects up on
the internet for anyone that's interested...but we are no longer pursuing many
of these older ideas. Before starting this project, please check our main Wind
Power page to check for similar, more recent designs. These will be the top of
the list and flagged with an "active project" tag. If you have any questions about
what is current and what is not, or why we no longer work on certain designs,
first check out our Wind Turbine Evolution page for a detailed history of how
our designs have changed over the years. You can also Email us and we'll fill you
in as our email volume permits...check the Evolution page first.
Para Espaol, traduccin de Julio Andrade. A strong tower is essential for any wind
generator, otherwise it will come crashing to the ground. Plan on spending at least
as much on your tower as you did on your wind generator, if not more. Since a tall
tower is a rather immobile structure, make sure your location is good! Your wind
generator should fly at least 30 feet above any obstructions within 300 feet. If you
can't do this, keep in mind that turbulence caused by nearby object will rob you of
power, and cause much more stress on the mill...turbulent winds make the
machine yaw violently, which put a huge amount of strain on the fastspinning
blades. If you are low on funds for your tower, you can still homebrew an
inexpensive version we've done it many times. Check out our fieldexpedient
tower at the bottom of this page, made from a freshcut stump and a lodgepole
pine.
TiltUp Towers
We are very fond of tiltup towers around Otherpower.com headquarters. One of our
Dans is deathly afraid of heights, and the other Dan feels that climbing a 60 foot
tower is neither fun nor conducive to a long and healthy life. Therefore, this page
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will concentrate entirely on the tiltup variety. This way, all work with tools and
heavy wind generators can be done while safely standing on solid ground. Tiltup
towers can be made from wooden utility poles, steel lattice radio towers, or 21foot
sections of steel pipe coupled together. The key features of these towers are 4 guy
wires, a hinged base and a gin pole for leverage. To raise a tower, the 2 side guy
wires are attached and tightened while the tower is laying on the ground to prevent
lateral movement during the process, and the guy wire opposite the winch side is
cut to the correct length and attached to the earth anchor to prevent the tower
from falling over if it passes plumb. A winch or vehicle is attached to the remaining
free side over a gin pole for leverage, and the tower is slowly pulled up. When it is
plumbed with the turnbuckles, all guy wires are tightened. To lower it, simply
reverse the process. This whole procedure is rather exciting, but not as exciting
(terrifying) as climbing 60 feet in the air! The diagrams below show some simple
plans for a basic tiltup tower design.
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Tower Materials
WoodWooden poles can be very effective and economical. Some of our
neighbors have simply used a tall tree from the forest, bored a 1 inch hole
near the bottom for the hinge, built a metal collar on which to mount the
wind machine, and gone right ahead with the project. None of these towers
has yet failed, but the heights average only 2030 feet. I would be leery of
this method with a higher tower! A straight, treated utility pole would
make for a much more permanent tower. These are fairly easy to find in 20
30 foot lengths, and can be found (with difficulty) in more useful 5060 foot
sizes too. Topping, limbing and guying a tree has been suggested to us, but
we don't recommend that eithertrees will eventually rot, they are hard to
climb, and sway too much in the wind.
Metal PipeThis is my personal favorite. I've had great success using 2 inch
galvanized steel water pipe for towers. The maximum recommended height
for a 2 inch water pipe tower is 42 feet, which is 2 pieces of pipe. Attach
another set of guy wires at the coupling between the two pipes. Also, it
would be wise to make couplers between each section that extend into the
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pipe on both sides for added strength.

Steel LatticeThese towers are very strong and lightweight, but expensive
if purchased new. Used lattice towers can sometimes be found in rural
areas, or through ham radio enthusiasts. Though generally not designed for
tiltup use, the base can be modified to be hinged. Contact Lake Michigan
Wind and Sun to learn more about this conversion, and for prices and
availability of used and new towers. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how
little lattice towers weigha typical 10 foot section weighs less than 80
pounds!
Foundations
A wind generator foundation must be very strong, especially the hinge. If your tilt
up tower, foundation, or hinge is not strong enough, you will probably find out
during the erection process when the entire mess comes crashing to the ground!
That is the only time when there is a great deal of sideways stress on the base
during raising and lowering. Pouring a concrete foundation that extends down below
frost line is highly recommended. I have successfully used 1/4 inch steel hinge
brackets embedded directly in the concrete. 1/2 inch steel plate would be better.
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See the diagram below for details.
Earth Anchors
Your earth anchors for the guy wires must also be very strongthey have to resist
the lateral thrust that is put on the windmill. As your propellor rpm increases, the
blades act more and more like a solid sheet of plywood sitting up in the wind. There
are a number of different earth anchors that can be used; a rugged mountain
installation in the rocks might require a couple of different kinds. Generally,
anchors are designed to utilize the weight and shear strength of the surrounding
soil to help hold them in place. The radius of your guy wires should be between 50
and 75 percent of the tower height. It is very important to lay out your 4 anchor
foundations perfectly perpendicular to each other around the tower foundation
otherwise, the 2 side guys will not stay tight while raising and lowering the tower.
Leveling is a an issue too. If the guy wire pads are at different elevations, you will
run into the same problems with loose and tight guy wires. Use the highest quality
turnbuckles that you can find. Try to find turnbuckles that have removable bolts at
each end to hold the guy wire in. Use the thimbles that come with your cable
clamps to avoid fraying the cable. Avoid turnbuckles that have hook endsif you
can't find them with bolts or solid loops, be SURE to using baling wire on each hook
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so nothing pulls loose during raising or lowering. We recently learned a good lesson
about guy wiresfortunately it was not a hard lesson! When fastening your guy wires
with Crosby Ushaped cable clamps (see photo), make sure to use enough clamps on
each connection (3 is recommended), orient them correctly, and tighten them
VERY hard! The clamps should all be oriented the same way, with the forged saddle
on the live end of the cable. Remember the saying..."Never saddle a dead horse..."
don't ever put the saddle of the clamp on the dead end of the cable!
Fortunately we learned this lesson while building a washtub

bass for our bluegrass band, and NOT while erecting the windmill! Had we not
learned this from building the bass, we would not have oriented the clamps
correctly or tightened them enough. We used a length of 3/32 inch aircraft cable for
the string, and fastened it at the peghead and at the washtub with cable clamps.
But every time we tightened the string enough to play in the key of G, the cable
clamps slipped. After about 4 tightenings and the addition of more cable clamps,
success was achieved. But it was sure better to find out about these clamps on a
bass instead of a windmill! Click HERE for more information about our washtub
bass...it's a great instrument that's easy to play with no musical knowledgeall you
need is a good ear and strong arms and legs. It's also a bit of an aerobic workout to
play, as you raise and lower the pitch of the single string by pull and pushing on the
neck while bracing the tub with your foot. And sorry for the diversion....back to the
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topic now!
ConcreteThis is the allaround strongest solution. The hole for the
concrete should be bellshaped, so it is wider at the bottom than at the
topthis allows the soil over the anchor to help hold it in place (see
diagram below). A metal loop for the guy wire can be embedded directly in
the concrete, preferably at close to a 90 angle from the attachment point
near the tower top. Your footing should extend down below frost line. If
you set an auger with a plate into concrete, the end should point toward
the tower...In other words it should be parallel to the guy wire.
AugersIf your soil has good shear strength (i.e. it is not loose, dry and
crumbly) you can purchase earth augers to anchor your guy wires. These
metal rods have an angled plate at the end that allows you to screw it into
the ground. Again, they should be angled into the ground so that they are
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parallel with the guy wire.

Rock AnchorsWe have successfully (so far!) anchored guy wires directly
into large rock outcroppings using a homemade 'piton' made of rebar. Drill a
3/4 inch hole in the rock with a hammer drill, again angled away from the
windmill. Pound in a #6 rebar and weld a loop for the guy wire on the end.
Epoxy in the hole might also help. Our first version used #4 rebar and seems
very strong, but a larger diameter would be better.
Fence PostsMetal T posts can make fast and easy earth anchors for 20 to
30 foot towers if you can pound them in deep enough. If not, we have
successfuly dug out around the post and poured in concrete for a very
strong anchor on a 30 foot metal pipe tower. With fence posts, they should
be angled into the ground at 90 degrees to the guy wire.
Vibration
Windmill towers are subject to all sorts of vibration. The propellor, changing wind
direction, generator noise, and effects of the wind directly on the tower can cause
all sorts of harmonic vibration, some audible and some not. Be sure to Loctite all
bolts on the tower. If harmonics are causing problems (such as a swaying metal pipe
tower), the problem can sometimes be fixed by changing where the guy wires
attach to the tower, or by adding extra guy wires farther down the tower.
Field Expedient Windmill Tower

One of our Dans was running into some serious power problems...his batteries
(inherited from the previous owner of the house) were trashed, and the new
Starband satellite uplink through which we run our website draws about 300 watts.
He needed more power, and fast! He didn't have time to build a proper tower, and
the ground was frozen solid, eliminating any possibility of digging or pouring
concrete for a foundation or guy anchors. Pictured is the resultDan cut down a live
tree, and carved the stump into a hinged base. The tower is a lodgepole pine that
was standing dead, and the hinge pin is one inch pipe with another smaller pipe
inside it. Two of the guy wires are anchored into rock with pitons made of 1/2 inch
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rebar, the others are guyed directly to the bases of live trees (he tried metal fence
posts, but the ground was too rocky and frozen to pound them in). This tower is
intended as a temporary measure; the windmill involved is one of our homebuilt
models made with minimal monetary investment, so it's not a great loss if the
tower failswe'll chalk it up to a learning experience! Hinged base made from tree
stump
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Improvised guy anchor piton
We would like to
include more home made tower designs on this page. If you have built a windmill
tower from scratch and are willing to share your experiences and photos, please
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email us!
CeramicTubeFromChina
CeramicTube,pipe,cylinder
HighQuality,FavorablePrice
All content copyright 2012 by Buckville Publications LLC. No dogs, cats or hamsters were harmed during the creation of this website.
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30/08/2015

Some thoughts on Towers

diameter wind turbine!

The Wood 103

system is on a nice tall tower.

Wind Power Glossary

In practice, we cannot always follow guidelines, we have to work with available

Alternator and Generator

10 foot diameter brake

Tape Drive Motors for

made from pipe that can be tipped up with a winch, or a truck.

A VERY fine book on building

your own wind turbine from

scratch, with stepbystep

because we wrote it! Buy it

the force when raising, or lowering the tower.

Re: SelfSupporting Tower

Re: PowerJack 2400w

smart solar controller

Here is a nice pivot on a concrete foundation. This is under a 40' tower.

Below is our older page on towers, with a link to the

pipe on both sides for added strength.

See the diagram below for details.

Fortunately we learned this lesson while building a washtub

parallel with the guy wire.

Field Expedient Windmill Tower

Improvised guy anchor piton

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