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CHAPTER 2: MOLD IN ATTIC
Equipment and Info needed(books, videos ,
personal guidance and more) CLICK HERE

So You’ve Got Mold In Your Attic? Now What?


Simple Strategies For Understanding Attic Mold Removal and Correct
Attic Ventilation Problems

Attic mold is extremely common all over the United States, and, while the geography may
end result is the same, Attic mold. Attic mold is generally directly attributable to 5 basic c
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Home Environmental Expert, Inventor, Author, Charles Boday!
ENTER TO WIN FREE ATTIC /
CRAWLSPACE MOLD REMOVAL
FOR YOUR HOME!!!

If you have a mold problem, you must read on to discover the best and safest way to eradicate it perm
for the health of your home and family.
Attic mold is extremely common all over the United States, and, while the geography may vary- the end result is the same, Attic mol
mold is generally directly attributable to 5 basic causes:
1. Lack of adequate ventilation or improper ventilation.
2. Existing or past roof or flashing leaks.
3. Ice damming as a result of inadequate insulation and failure to incorporate “Ice Guard” along the eves.
4. Improperly exhausted bathroom fans and or dryer vents.
5. Leaking HVAC systems.
We will briefly discuss each problem and the appropriate remedy… as well as covering the basic abatement strategies used nationw
as those offered by average variety, “local Joe mold company” contractors in your neck of the woods and lastly why
FREE ESTIMATE, BEST PRICE your family, more effective and even SUPERIOR to all of our “so-called competitors”.
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DAY!!! Improper Ventilation:

By far the most common cause of all attic mold is improper ventilation.
Let’s start by explaining that in most attics north of the Mason-Dixon line, the mold does NOT grow in the summertime, unless there
HVAC or roofing leak. This is because during the spring, summer, and early fall months, the daytime temperature of the attic is
for the mold to effectively grow; and the humidity levels inside the attic are typically too low to allow for mold growth. Most molds will
between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, in fact they love the same temperatures we do. Some molds that belong to a special class o
( the ones usually affecting attic in the northern climate) are called the Chrysophile molds, and they will grow in temperatures as low
20’sF.

South of the Mason Dixon line, the mold is more likely to grow as a result of roof leaks, unsealed HVAC ducts running through the a
or leaking HVAC units located within the attic space. When cool, air-conditioned air, leaks into the hot attic space dew-point (conde
NO MOLD,ODOR, DUST MITES water) can be achieved and mold growth is inevitable.
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During the winter months when we heat our homes, some of the heat is inevitably lost into the un-heated attic space. This hot air m
moves upward where it will dissipate outside if the attic is properly vented.
If however the attic is poorly vented the hot trapped air will encounter the cold surface of the underside of the roofing boards or she
This hot –air-mass- meets-cold-surface effect, results in something called dew-point being achieved. This is dew-point created cond
and is often more noticeable on the nails in the attic sticking through the roof, as the nails are metal and therefore conductors, and ar
OZONE GENERATOR BiO3-Blaster™
efficient at conducting the cold temperature from outside. The condensation then forms water droplets which can drip onto the floor o
or worse sometimes run down into the wall cavities below resulting in potentially “hidden “ mold which can be the source of frustratin
Charles Boday's Books diagnose health problems.

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Many times, a roof will appear to be ventilated, but in fact, it is not.


Often a roof will have sufficient out-take air roof ventilation either a ridge vent or box vents, but the soffits (eves or overhangs of the
not vented and never were, or have become blocked, commonly by insulation. Even more commonly, when a house receives new s
siding contractor will install vented soffit panels giving the eves the appearance of being vented when in reality they are not, as no ho
ever cut into the plywood covering the bottom of the eves. Sometimes the attic is ventilated properly but an overzealous attempt to i
blocked the air flow from the soffits to the ridge preventing proper ventilation.

An easy way for you to check whether or not the vents are there and are functioning properly, is to go up into the attic on a sunny d
extinguish all lights and look for daylight coming in along the edges. A well ventilated attic should allow visible daylight

What is the best way to vent the roof?

Roof ventilation is divided into two categories:

Incoming air and Outgoing air.

Incoming Air: The most effective way for air to enter the roof is through vents that are placed in the soffits along the eves. Contin
vents provide the most reliable ports as well as rectangular vents. Round ventilator plugs are easy to install but are usually to small
adequate air flow.

  Outgoing air: Stale or heated air escapes through the top of the roof. There are many ways to achieve
ventilation including : Ridge Vents , Turbines or Powered Vents, Box Vents and Gable End Vents.
Continuous ridge vents are the preferred method for eliminating built up hot air but may not be sufficient to ventilate short ridged roo
roofs.

SERVE NATIONWIDE!

Ventilating heated attics or cathedral ceilings properly is often neglected during initial construction.
results in ceiling drywall growing mold on the back side when the builder fails to vent and baffle the
ALL STATES, ALL CITIES!!! behind the ceiling insulation and drywall.

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NO MOLD WARRANTY

7 YEARS NO MOLD Short Circuited Ventilation: A frequently missed ventilation Problem is when a ridge vent has
GUARANTEE!!! added to the home’s roof after initial construction, that was originally built using either gable end ve
vents. When this happens it is critical that the existing vents are sealed up. If the old gable end or b
are left alone in an attempt at “extra” ventilation it will backfire every time. The old vents will inevitab
intake air through the gable ends or directly through the box vents.

This short-circuits the soffit vents along the eves or the overhangs entirely. When this happens it o
the air to be exhausted at the peak or ridge of the roof, keeping the rest of the air in the attic moist.

1203 days since


Roof leaks: always need to be addressed by a professional roofer and special attention needs to
FREE ATTIC/CRAWLSPACE JOB flashings around chimneys and indeed any penetration found in the roof decking. Flashings often r
maintenance several times between roof shingling jobs and are extremely important to maintain. Th
home owner routinely neglects this important routine maintenance. Roof leaks can often develop in
mold problems both in the attic cavity or WORSE inside of hidden wall cavities in the home. It is a g
to walk the roof at least once a year to check for exposed nail heads flashings and all boots or protr
through the roof. It is vital that ALL roof repairs are performed prior to beginning a remediation proto

Ice Damming usually occurs during extreme winters or with prolonged snow cover along the eves immediately above the plate-line
exterior walls. Leakage in this area easily penetrates into wall cavities where it can become trapped between exterior finish materials
interior vapor barriers. A surprisingly small amount of water can raise the relative humidity of a wall cavity to highly damaging levels.
growth may eventually become visible along the wall base as it penetrates from exterior to interior wall surfaces. More critically spo
MVOCs (Microbial Volatile Organic Compounds) released by mold can aggravate serious health problems in the homes occupants. E
at risk are the very young and the old as well as Allergy –sensitive or immuno-compromised adults.

In some mild cases ventilation corrections are enough to cure the problem in severe c
roof shingles must be removed and strips of “Ice – Guard” be installed along the eves
damming. In severe cases the exterior wall drywall must be removed and the wall cav
treated as well. If you have noticed water dripping from the joint where the ceiling mee
or from around the windows give us a call immediately!

Improperly vented bathroom fans: Bathroom fans and dryer vents can generate a lo
moisture. This means the bigger the family, the more showers get taken, the more wa
goes into the attic. Bathroom fans should always be vented directly up and out throug
Often times builders or do-it your-selfers will discharge fans or dryer discharge hoses directly into the attic, greatly increasing the ove
humidity.
Do-it-yourselfers also often try to connect more than one fan into a discharge and will commonly run the discharge out to the eves o
to butted up next to a box vent rather than straight up and out through the roof.

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The remedy is simple one fan to one roof vent which is sealed with metallic duct tape and connected directly vertically up through th
vent boot overhead. On the outside the vent has a hat and is not a risk for water leaks, rather it permanently eliminates the problem m
from the attic.

Leaking or unsealed HVAC air d


units: Often times an HVAC air handler itself, or just some of the air ducts themselves, are run through the attic space either during
construction or at some point thereafter . When this happens mold can easily result.
How you ask?
Well when the ductwork is initially installed segmented pieces of ductwork are assembled together to form long tubes or “runs” . Wh
and every one of the sections fit together there are gaps voids and cracks. In modern systems installed in the last 5 years better HVA
contractors have been sealing these seams with a special moisture resistant metallic duct tape. The majority of homes in America ho
not have these tight seams.
Consequently these unsealed vents will allow the air to escape into the un-conditioned air of the attic space. In northern climates in
when hot air from the furnace leaks into the space dew-point is achieved by the hot air meeting the cold boards of the attic. I warm cl
cold air leaking from the Air conditioning which escapes into the hot air of the attic and condenses on the hot boards of the roof will a
dew-point similarly, from the reverse conditions. When this happens the end result is mold.

Attic with one half of the stain removal performed by our experienced men, the difference is night and day!

                             HOW DO I TREAT THE MOLD?

Unfortunately, there are as many “treatments” for mold as there are remediators out in the real world offering “mold remediation”. Th
extremely confusing but if you bear with me and read on I promise to cut through all the hype and share with you how I created a bet
mold removal process.
Attic mold problems are especially challenging for a homeowner to solve as the mold industry has no National Governmen
Guidelines…..
So the list of options is confusing and often indecipherable, with the average “mold guy” routinely promising old fashioned bleach an
touting the latest craze.
One thing is sure, attic mold spores can grow at alarming rates. One mold spore can develop into 12 million in twelve hours!

Also the mold is feeding on the boards, and what you can see with the naked eye is not the mold “plant” itself , but rather what you
millions and millions of them clumped together. What you can’t see are the “roots” The roots however are the organism itself.

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The roots of mold grow into the substrate at least 3/16 of an inch.

What we think of as the mold, the clumped spores, are actually the fruit or reproductive body of the mold colonies, like an apple is to
tree, the clumped spores are to the mold organism. You cannot ever, ever, hope to solve a mold problem leaving these roots and tre
the surface of the wood. Sadly that is just what the majority of mold remediators do. What’s worse the majority of the chemicals bein
the market today contain known cancer causing chemicals and sadly do not work on porous surfaces (every surface in an attic).

The mold certifying authorities recommend other costly impractical steps or procedures. Things like putting the attic under negativ
pressure. This means using expensive equipment to suck more air into the attic than escapes from it, negative pressure is great but
easier to use an air scrubber to scrub the air instead, near the access, this is quicker and easier and achieves the same result. The
recommendation is to remove the all of the insulation in the entire attic; to gather it into plastic bags, which are taped shut.

Next they tell you or a contractor, to then HEPA vacuum the attic board
and tops of ceiling boards, while the workers are wearing head to toe suit
respirators, all without managing to fall through the ceilings into the bedro
below. Afterward, they say manually wash all of the same areas with a de
solution (which will NOT affect the roots). Finally to correct the ventilation
This they say will solve the mold problem! Oh yeah I almost forgot to me
afterward you are supposed to re-insulate the attic since you just removed 100% of the insulation.

Removing and replacing insulation alone, can cost thousands of dollars from an insula
contractor; let alone paying mold workers to do it with suits and respirators on!

This is silly for so many reasons. The most important reason is that on
cold days no matter how well you insulate the attic, no matter how mu
ventilate the attic, there will always be a temperature differential espec
around the nails themselves.

The Problem: This is an extremely man hour intensive process that c


of money. it also does nothing to address the spores (mold seeds) or to address the ro
organism itself). This whole concept is based on physically removing the spores and t
parts of the mold. However this is just a flat out waste of time. Why? It’s very simple, w
correct the ventilation and get the attic breathing with the additional ventilation,
new spores into the attic every single day. That is why impregnating the wood itself
source) with a salt which is safe for humans but lethal to mold is far more important. Th
when a new mold spore lands on the wood on the coldest days of the year, it can no longer germinate or grow.

Nationwide other contractors use a variety of techniques that can be broken into four main groups: the Fog and Encapsulators (spray
painters) the Bleach and ozonators the franchise users and lastly the dry ice or soda blasters.

First group the fog and encapsulators: by far the most common, I call these guys the spray poison/ spray painters; these contract
you that all that is necessary is to go into the attic and fog or spray a “magic” mold killing chemical and then to “encapsulate” the mol
poisoned, special mold inhibiting paint.

Many of these charlatans will not even admit that their encap
paint.

Usually the paint they use has a heavy metal


or tin or zinc. Sometimes they have a toxic chemical
to discourage mold growth. In rare cases the paint itself is m
special solids which do not lend themselves to mold growth.

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The problem: These contractors almost exclusively use fungicides that are not sporicidal. This means that they do not kill spores an
them will not penetrate a porous substrate (like wood).
This means that when they apply the “encapsulant” (poison paint) they are applying it directly over the moldy roots. This is a huge
the vapor barrier forming nature of latex paints can cause dew-point to be achieved between the paint and the wood itself.

Another huge issue with encapsulating is that it screams to home inspectors that there was a problem here in the past. Usually only
problem or a fire will result in this attic painting technique which will scare away many a worthy buyer out of fear.

Have you ever seen what happens when you lay a piece of plastic sheeting or drop-cloth on the ground overnight in the summertime
ever notice those beads of water or dew? That’s because the Earths temperature in the summertime is cooler than the outdoor air. T
teach our Navy Seals how to get water from the air in the desert based on this principle.
This is precisely what happens when you treat an attic mold problem with any kind of encapsulating paint. What happens is this, the
begins to delaminate as dew-point is achieved between the paint film and the wood itself.

Many, many, times, I have seen mold growing directly on Mold-proof paint!

The way that happens is this: mold proof or poisoned paint cannot support mold growth; however if the paint gets a thin coating of du
mold can colonize this dust, called bio-film directly. Bio-film is composed of dust mites, dead skin cells, dust mite feces pollen dander
disgusting things. The mold can start growing on the dust and then nearly all molds can lay down a sticky enzyme layer and begin to
food right out of the air!

Last year we had to re-treat over 40 of these attic mold jobs, that had been “professionally treated” in the last year alone!

This attic was treated by a “certified mold remediator” notice the paint coming off in st
mold colonies can be seen growing directly on the “mold proof” paint or “encapsulant”
to say the homeowner had to hire us to correct the “corrected” problem! These means
pay to treat the same attic space twice! Ludicrous, but true!

The Bleach and Ozonators: These contractors will go into the attic and spray bleach
wood. The reason is to remove the stains, many of these companies will not admit the
using bleach! Just ask them what the active ingredient is in their “stain remover” if it is
hypochlorite “ its bleach.

After the use of the bleach they usually will run an ozone cannon to get rid of the strong bleach smell! These contractors usually ref
warranty their work.
I have even heard the claim that the Ozone cannons they use will turn the spores into ash. Balderdash! I have been responsibly us
gas for 10 years it never once turned any mold into ash(or anything like it).

The problem: The reason for the bleaching is entirely cosmetic. Bleach is a lousy germicide and is completely in
at killing mold or bacteria on porous substrates or surfaces. Why?

Bleach has an ion structure that prevents it from penetrating into a porous substrate like wood, this means it ALWAYS leaves th
un-harmed.

The roots are the most important part to destroy. If you don’t kill the roots, its like yanking a dandelion top in your yard and not pulling
root!
Give it a drink of water and it comes right back.

Also when bleach is used on wood it releases a powerful environmental toxin called Dioxin

This noxious poison was responsible for destroying the ecosystems near our paper mills in the pacific northwest and in the southeas
States. While the ozone cannons will destroy the chemicals off gassed by the bleach this technique leaves the complete root structur
and guarantees that if you ever have a new water leak the mold will go right into full production and the mold problem will imm
return.

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The Franchisors: These mold contractors have bought into a “system” or a franchise most often using toxic chemicals which can ha
and your family.
These are typically the least knowledgeable about the topic matter as the bought the franchise because they were not in the industry

The Problem: Often their warranties aren’t worth the paper they are printed on as they only agree to replace the chemicals if they fa
a huge difference between a product warranty and an “Iron-Clad Service Warranty”….

Usually the fine print in the warranty makes it worthless. Often these are money seekers who use low dollar labor, as the owners on
into the franchise so they didn’t have to work on the job (just like Subway Sandwich shops).

The Soda or Dry Ice Blasters: Some contractors will tell the customer the truth about all of the poisonous chemical that are so inef
are being used by the majority of the contractors out there. They will explain some of the things I will tell you as well. What’s necess
say is not to use a chemical but rather to abrade or scratch the surface of the wood with tiny little particles like sand blasting. They ei
subscribe to the soda blasting method or the dry ice blasting method. In both cases the contractor uses a wand attached to a hose a
which is connected to a high power air compressor. The operator sprays tiny little particles of ground up dry ice or baking soda at hig
and high velocity or speed directly against the boards themselves.

The end result of either is a pretty, stain-free, normal-looking board. When these contractors are finished the jobs
look great. The reason is simple by “blasting” or abrading the surface of the wood they are able to remove surfac
pigmentation or discoloration of the wood. The pigments are usually located in the surface first 1/16
wood. This is the only mechanical removal technique other than direct surface sanding that will achieve pigment r
and apparent mold eradication. The use of dry ice results in nothing left but the gas the soda blasting method requires that tedious la
intensive tarps are used to catch all the powder that falls to the insulation.

The Problem: Well, what’s wrong you ask???? Plenty!!!

First, during the process, the spores are lofted into the air where they become invisible to the naked eye. When the process is finishe
spores are left floating, and when the contractor removes his equipment with the problem looking solved, they remain
just waiting to land and re-contaminate the structure!

But the most important reason it is ineffective, has to do with the way mold grows. Remember how we talked about the dandelion roo
the ice blasting or soda blasting does a great job at removing the pigment from the moldy wood. This is in the surface layer with the
bodies.

What it doesn't do is to remove the roots!

Now don't get me wrong it is completely possible to ice blast away enough wood to remove the roots . But in order to accomplish this
contractor has to grind away at the wood till 1/2 inch has been removed! Remember most attics are only 1/2 inch thick plywood in the
place! Additionally, if the rafters are blasted away 1/2 inch around all three exposed side your roof is likely to collapse! This process i
another one of the many gimmicks that have been tried to charge high prices and to stand out in the marketplace.

What makes you different ,Charlie? Why should I trust you???

You ask?

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-Simple: I have been a mold victim too, for that reason I CARED enough to develop the best system to solve your mold p
permanently and protect your family!

I have been in business since 1995 repairing foundations and performing mold remediation. I also am an Author and
and manufacture my own line of oxygen cannons. In each of my businesses I have made revolutionary advances that have litera
changed the face of the Industry by improving existing techniques. I have also written three books about them. Last year I treat
mold, or performed attic mold removal in over 30 states in the Union.

How does this affect me and my attic problem, you ask?

You see, I discovered to my surprise about 10 years ago, that the chemicals that were being used by my so-called mold removal com
(and indeed by most of the industry) not only DIDN’T WORK on porous surfaces… which is about EVERY surface that mold would g
house (or duct system too)! I also discovered that most of these chemicals contain NO ingredients that KILL the spores (the most im
but hardest things to kill) and also …that they leave behind RESIDUAL TOXIC CHEMICAL POISONS that in some case are
poisons the MOLD makes!

Yikes! I found this out the hard way, cause in the beginning
or not, back then I used the same old chemicals
the attic mold removal/attic mold remediation industry
was using a product called IAQ2000. It was EPA registered an
Biodegradable, supposedly safe stuff….. What happened?

Do you know how I found out that these chemicals didn’t work
poisonous? I contracted work with three “special Ladies” that g
from the chemicals I used in their homes.

I call these ladies “special” because due to living with extremely TO


they had developed a RARE condition called Multiple Chemical S
Disorder.

Ever heard of it ? I hadn’t.

At that time I thought they were nuts, just hair-brained crazy. I mea
husbands weren’t sick, my tests came back clean, and
beautiful.

I can honestly say that I thought they were trying to get their money
job WELL DONE.

But…Since I had three of them in a row, I decided to try and see if there might be anything, anything at all, to their claims of sicknes

What I learned changed my life….and could change your life too, read on to learn more and
your life…….what I discovered is that their noses worked actually much BETTER than a “reg
persons nose (someone without Multiple Chemical Sensitivity Disorder).

In fact their noses were so good they worked just like a blood-ho
nose!

HMMM! I began to theorize that maybe I had been POISONING ALL OF MY CUSTOMERS,
“regular noses” just couldn’t smell it.

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I quickly began to research. Just what was in those chemicals? After all, they were EPA appr
biodegradable like (Oxine and Sporicidin).
What I discovered truly SHOCKED THEN HORRIFIED ME…

The EPA routinely approves products that contain known carcinogens (th
CANCER CAUSING chemicals) …
I was AGHAST!
I quickly realized that I needed to do some research and if necessary change the chemicals
–FAST! So I got together with some of the country’s top scientists.

I met many very, very smart people who had already devoted their ENTIRE LIVES to the cause. I read TONS of material about mold
different ways to KILL MOLD. I took ALL of the good ideas that I learned from all these sources and EXPERTS and...

Then I FUSED them all together into a system that is absolutely LETHAL to mold but remains SAFE for the entire family! In fact it le
behind NO known residual poisons that can make people sick. It cost me a SMALL FORTUNE to do. But I developed this not poison
system for you and your family!

Our System:

 Phase 1 Prepping the home: The first thing we do is Site Preparation. We isolate the attic from the rest of the house. We p
protective paper through the walkways of the house leading to where we will be working. This important step protects your home,
guarantees no staining or dirt is carried into the carpets in the home. Your house is important to us we will treat you as if we were
on our mothers own house!

Phase 2 Kill the mold: We SATURATE all of the moldy trusses and sheathing with a disinfectant the uses the amazing pow
Hydrogen Peroxide nature’s miracle disinfectant.

The reason we start with this is that when mold senses it is being attacked, has a simple defense mechanism. It releases its spo
air into an invisible or a visible cloud, a phenomenon called bursting or sporulation.

Can you see this spore cloud?

Billions of spores are released just by disturbing the mold!

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Sorta’ like “argh, ya got me….now here suffer the wrath of my babies! By using a
atomizing fogger we literally saturate the surfaces, killing the mold and also mec
washing the air itself, with tiny little particles of H2O2.

Hydrogen Peroxide is unique among the mold killing chemicals as it is the


know of that will completely destroy a spore (mold seed), without being poisono
humans.

In fact, it leaves behind only water. The way it works is this: when you pour hydro
peroxide onto a cut and you see it start to fizz a simple chemical reaction occurs. Hydrogen peroxide is H2O2 which is water
or free radical oxygen. The free radical oxygen molecule is what does all of the killing. When it is done killing the mold via oxidiz
that is left behind is pure water!

By breaking the H2O2 into tiny micron sized particles it not only saturates the
washes the air just like the rain washesit in nature, except our “rain” is micros
particles of H2O2!

This way we kill the spores before they can spread all over. This maximizes w
safety and increases customer protection should a containment, fail.

Phase 3: Removing the Stains. This is absolutely a must, because while truly only cosmetic in nature, failure to remove the stai
result in untrained eyes (home inspectors ) believing that the mold is still active. Removing the stains is the least important step
scientifically, but it is the MOST IMPORTANT step perceptually.

blasting the wood. The chemical process relies on the use of sodium hypochlorite a strong bleaching agent.

The blasting process is more labor consuming and costly. Both will effectively offer you a fresh new clean looking mold free attic b
Both will amaze the realtor and or new home buyer.
Cost is the differential, deciding factor and we leave which process to use entirely up to you.

Phase 4 Borate application Sheathing and trusses:

Next and most important to the warranty and long term efficacy of the process we actually impregnate the wood with an environm
friendly solution of borate called ENVIROTECH WP or similar tectraoctaborohydrate. This is made from an extremely finely grou
specially-designed-for-dissolving borax a cousin to the old fashioned 20 mule team Borax we use in our laundry.
absolutely amazing. It was designed to penetrate the substrate a full inch (remember mold roots only grow 3/16’s of an inch into
wood). It not only prevents all hosts of decay and dry rot fungi but it also prevents wood boring insects carpenter ants beetles and
Just Imagine, you get a complete two-for-one bonus!

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Just Imagine, Mold proofing and bug proofing in one fell swoop!

Then we even dry fog the powdered ENVIROTECH WP/borate all over the insulation. This machine takes the finely crushed pow
borax and blows it in a fine cloud all over the existing insulation. This carries a safe for humans mold inhibitor into the insulation to
the need for removing it and to insure that no mold will ever, ever, grow in the dust that can become trapped in it.
Phase 5 The Gas Out: Lastly, years ago when researching a safe non toxic residue mold killer, I discovered that the scientists a
Alamos national laboratory (where the atomic bomb was developed) have extensively studied how to decontaminate a civil facility
house or office building that has been contaminated by a spore based pathogen like toxic mold.

These scientists concluded that if you only follow the guidelines recommended for mold remediation recommended by every natio
certifying organization out there (IAQA, NAMP, IESO, IICRC Etc.) that you will leave the structure contaminated with spores after
attempts at clean up have been performed.

Why you ask?

They concluded that in order to fully decontaminate the structure/ area it is absolutely necessary to fill it full of toxic levels of a
gas, like ozone otherwise known as activated oxygen or O3. This gas penetrate the nooks and crannies and crevices in the attic
especially down into the insulation, where the liquid based chemicals/products can’t penetrate…. The use of the gas out is neces
guaranteeing the destruction of any invisible spores we remediators might have missed, because we can’t see them
hundred thousand spores can fit on the head of a pin).

That’s right, no matter how experienced my men are, they don’t have microscopes for e
means that they cannot see the airborne or individual spores (and neither can you).

Our super powerful ozone generators fill the attic with an oxygen gas destroyin
spores, viruses, bacteria, bugs, MVOC’s and more!!!

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Phase 6 Wrap-up: Finally we fog out our staging areas and any other areas of the
we’ve utilized guaranteeing we completely eliminate all threats to occupants. We remo
plastic. We remove the protective paper walkways and we give you your house back i
condition we found it except mold free!

Phase 7 Ventilation Correction:


perform the required ventilation repairs
you need in-take air ventilation, out-tak
ventilation, or bathroom vans to be re-r
skilled technicians can handle it all.

These photos below are the photos var


ventilation photos of re-routing a bathro
fan….which had been discharging impr
the attic….creating extra humidity and
condensation which created the conditi
were ripe for mold growth.

Here is a schematic of a properly installed bathroom fan, this schematic came directly from the manufacturer but we vent them a
straighter and more vertical through the roof.
First a skilled carpenter begins by taking careful measurements…

The Worker Carefully inspects the roof and then Cuts the perfect size vent Hole!
The Vent is nailed in place and then a special polymer caulking is applied!

Voila! The newly vented bathroom fan is connected directly through the roof to the outside, eliminating condensation from the atti

 Intake air: Since removal of the source moisture is so critical we prefer to perform the ventilation repairs so that when we leav
is breathing properly and all of the burden of the warranty rests squarely on our shoulders. We also install soffit vents, and perform
insulation removal that is blocking them too!

 Out-take Air: We install either additional box vents or a ridge vent to allow the proper breathing of the attic and eliminate temp
differences.
The ridge is cut back on both sides, evenly!!!!

The new ridge vent is installed and then new ridge shingles.
The out-take air is now complete! This insures that the air can flow from the intake vents at the soffits and out at the highest part of t
heat rises upwards!

Various Before and After photos!!!

Treated Untreated

Before After

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So to recap:

1. We Kill the mold with a special Hydrogen Peroxide based disinfectant.

2. We eliminate the stains.

3. We impregnate the wood with a liquid non-toxic borate solution that makes it mold-proof and prevent wood borers ca
ants and termites.
4. We impregnate the insulation with a powdered non-toxic borate solution that prevents mold wood borers carpenter a
termites.

5. We gas out the rest of the attic to eliminate the spore we missed.

6. We clean up our mess!

7. We perform the required ventilation repairs to eliminate the source of the moisture problem this includes installing s
box vents or ridge vents, re-routing improperly installed bathroom fans or dryer vents and insulation removal.

8. We Guarantee our work for LIFE!!!!

Our process is far more effective and contains more steps than any other company in the Nation. We are so sure of it we o
very best warrantees in the industry protect both your home and your wallet.

But Charlie, How Can I Hire You To Treat My Attic, I Live Far Away From You!!!?????

Is a question that I get asked every day…..

When you hire us, you hire the Nations #1 Attic and Crawl space Mold Experts!!!!

The reason is really simple: We started working for Major lenders (Banks) over 8 years ago. These Banks have mortgages on house
the USA. When one of their loans goes into foreclosure and the property develops a water problem, mold is quick to follow.

We began offering our Banks Nationwide service over 5 years ago. Basically the way it works is this: A Bank or asset manager will e
with an address for a house and some basic interior photos with a realtors phone number. We interview the realtor and prepare a bid
project we have never seen. When the bid is awarded we dispatch a crew of highly experienced mold professionals, who always, alw
always, perform an on-site inspection prior to performing any work!

How does this apply to my Attic???? You ask????

Well after becoming so successful at covering such a wide territory, we began to target Attic and Crawlspace projects nationwide. W
become the Nations #1 Attic Mold Experts !!!!!

How do we do it? The reason is simple, attics and crawlspaces have a limited number of variables. Whether your attic or crawlspace
most toxic mold or the least toxic mold – We treat it the exact same way with the exact same protocol.

Also with recent advances in satellite imagery we can zoom right in to your house and look directly at the roofs out-take air
as looking at the pitch of the roof from the street view.

Most county auditors are now storing a foundation blueprint online that can be used to measure the perimeter feet and square feet o
crawlspace.

Each and every day our qualified inspectors or myself, submit dozens estimates for attics, crawlspace, and REO mold projects nation

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Even though we never inspect ahead of time our Project leaders routinely un-cover things that were missed by home inspector or oth
mold professionals nationwide!

Just this week a customer named Steph K. of New Hampshire hired us to treat a moldy attic. She had become convinced by a home
and 3 local mold companies that the source of the mold was an improperly vented dryer, that had been vented directly into the attic.

I told Steph, that it was unlikely that the dryer vent alone could result in the mold problem, but that it was more likely just an exacerba
Steph however remained unconvinced - but she did hire us…. She hired us for the same reason you shall hire us because the proce
is superior to other contractors.

When, Eric arrived, he performed our initial inspection. He uncovered an improperly vented bathroom fan that was flat out
inspector and three “local mold guys”!

Not only did they miss the bathroom fan, also, the soffit ventilation was being impeded by baffles and packed with blown in insulation
installed a proper direct vent roof kit and painstakingly removed the insulation that was packing the soffits!!!

 How long does it take?

Typically we can complete a large attic project in 1-2 days… The work for an attic is done by a two man crew, who work exclusively o
crawlspace mold problems day in day out, week in week out, year in year out, all over the country. These men have seen more atti
and more mold types and more attic and crawlspace mold situations…

  ….Than any other attic mold removal professionals I know!!!!!

Last year alone we handled projects in over 30 states!!!!!

If there is a lot of ventilation work to perform, or if the stains are especially stubborn the work can take up to 2 full days
time however is 1 full day…

We can prep the job, perform the process steps, and correct simple ventilation issues in one single day. We don’t mess around, whe
us, you get our men, who are dedicated professionals. Dedicated to helping your family breathe free and easy for years to come! Yo
service you want, and the results you need, at the price you can afford every single time!

 How Much Does it Cost??????

The prices that are currently being charged by other companies can vary significantly based on geography, and region. Average atti
remediation costs vary from 1500 to 6000 with an average of about 2500-3000 nationwide.
There are always contractors in every area of the country who will tell homeowners that their entire roof needs replacement after goin
an extensive remediation and routinely charge tens of thousands of dollars for projects that could be handled for a few.
These companies want to tell you to replace your entire roof (boards and all), and these estimates often range anywhere from 10 gra
grand, and routinely don’t even solve the problem. Here’s why: What happens is a roofing company advertises mold removal, not
understanding all the causes of mold removal nor some of the solutions available today to remediate mold without removing the attic
sheathing. They see mold as a good way to land a big job to unsuspecting homeowners, and don’t realize that nearly always the mo
caused by ventilation problems inside the attic and not on the roof. Even though any good roofer should understand an attic should h
intake (soffit) vents, and proper exhaust vents (ridge, gable, box… but not more than 1 type, because it will disrupt the proper airflow
the homeowner they should replace an entire roof and then often will re-install improper ventilation or won’t correct things like bathro
improperly venting into the attic. More often it is a mold company who partners with a sister company to get a kickback on the roofing

But Charlie,  What does your system cost?????

I don’t know what kind of house you have or what type of construction it is, however if you will fill out the form for a free estimate, I w
a FREE estimate within 24hours! Be sure to include your name address city state zip code and telephone number and an Inspector o
will return your call, quickly.
No matter where you live, every single estimate I have every delivered has come with my amazingly simple Best Price Guarantee.
If you are the kind of shopper to whom, price alone, is more important than quality, I absolutely guarantee that as long as the scop
work and square footage is the same, I will Match or Beat any local competitors price, Guaranteed!

HERE’s What Realty Professionals Nationwide have had to say!

I was a little nervous, when my buyers went up in the attic to see the end results of the remediation procedure. I was flat ou
when the Father exclaimed from up in the attic space that his son “had to see this”. I was pleasantly shocked however, to le
what the son had to see, was a miraculous transformation in the appearance of the attic! The mold stains were completely
eliminated! Thanks to Safe Mold Solutions™ I have a happy customer and the house closed without a hitch!!!-John Kapusti
Williams Realty

We are a large Fanny Mae / R.E.O. brokerage. When we have a mold house we call, Charlie for Safe Mold Solutions™. Over
they have immediately responded every time we have asked and if the work is ordered, they can complete even extremely l
projects quickly and safely. We trust them so much Matt had them waterproof his OWN basement. --Matt and Kelli Beckett
Executive Decisions, Columbus, Ohio

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Every time I have a mold problem or a wet basement I call Charlie with Safe Mold Solutions™. Their immediate response an
Price Guarantee has helped me many times over. They have even called potential buyers for me long after the clean up and
their process to ease fears and help me complete the sale.
—Donald Fatobene, Principi Realty, Warren, Ohio

Last Spring (’09) we had a 6000 square foot property that was at one time, the Hartford Inn on the old Albany Road that led from Phi
to Albany when our nation’s capitol was in Philadelphia.

Due to the extreme age of the building and the many, many, layers of plaster that had been added over the last 200+ years it posed
challenge for even the most seasoned contractor. Much to my amazement Charlie completed the project on time and on budge
price that was HALF of the next lowest competitors bid, Thank You Charlie!
-Terry Spada Century 21, Hartford Connecticut

I know that we are the Absolute Best to handle your Attic or Crawlspace Mold Problem,  and buy now you d
but just to make sure that you do know it too,         I have a few Shameless Bribes to offer you, to encourag
 ACT NOW!

Shameless Bribe #1:  When you Hire us within 1 week of the date of filling out the contact form and we will collect a mold sam
will pay to have the lab analyze it for you FREE ($100-150 value)!!!!!!

 Shameless Bribe#2: When you Hire us within 14 days, we will provide a FREE on-site mold inspection of the entire hous
Value)!

Shameless Bribe #3: Hire us today, for immediate installation and receive a free air purifier!!! Whole house green techno
keep your family breathing fresh air!

MSRP $1299.00!

Shameless Bribe #4: If you are flexible in your scheduling needs we will offer you a 25%-30% discount. This discount is
everyone! It is for serious buyers who are available at all times for immediate installation. Our jobs take 1-2 days on averag
performed over an immense geographical area. Keeping our job board solid is our hardest task. Often we will try and group
together that are in roughly the same geographic region, when that happens we may need to do the job for you with very lit
This allows you to save big-time, but it also means having patience and flexibility. The way it works is this: We would guara
install your project for x amount of dollars. We would guarantee to have it installed by x date, with no specified day. You wo
have to be ready within a days notice to let us install the project when we need it.

It is a win win for both of us, I keep my job board solid, you SAVE $$$$$$$$$.

Call to order now 1-800-948-4947

How Many Times Have You Heard Of Mold Re-occurring After Expensive Treatment? Learn How To Protect Yourself from Liab
The Best Guarantees In The Industry.

We offer 2 extremely powerful guarantees:

Guarantee#1:

IRON CLAD LIFETIME “No Hidden Clause” SERVICE WARRANTY: We warrant that NO MOLD will grow on any areas tr
Borate inhibitor for SEVEN FULL YEARS. Warranty is subject to the correction of the existing water problem. We’re so confiden
process that if mold grows back on borate treated areas we’ll will buy you a $1000 dollar US Saving Bond
retreat area at NO CHARGE . Warranty is FULLY TRANSFERABLE. Void if additional UN-RELATED water damage occ
Warranty is subject to renewal.

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Guarantee#2:

. BEST PRICE GUARANTEE:

No competitor possesses our techniques or our commitment to customer satisfaction and quality. If price is the ONLY impo
factor to you, we guarantee to BEAT any other contractor’s price by 15% if it is itemized and will be duplicated exactly.
reserves the right to refrain if recommendations and scope of work are inadequate to solve problem.

Sincerely,

Charles Boday
All Rights Reserved

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