NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY

Textile Internship Report

At Arvind Naroda

By:
Akshita Sabharwal, Hitee Singh and Prachi

The document contains the report for a Fifteen day internship at Arvind Mills, Naroda
plant.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
I Acknowledgement 2
II Introduction
Objective......................................................................................................................................
Indian Textile Industry
Company Profile

Companys Vision 7
PPC Department

Raw Material Storage and Inspection Section

III Blow Room Section

10

12

IV Carding Section 17
V Drawing

20

VI Spinning 22
VIII Warping 25
VII Dyeing

30

Rope Dyeing

31

Slasher Dyeing

36

VIII Sizing

40

VIII Weaving 44
IX Finishing
Singeing Unit

48

Mercerizing Unit

50

Stentering Unit

53

Foam Finisher

56

Wet Finishing

60

X Inspection 64
XI Testing

68

XII Packaging

72

XIII Environmental Factors at Arvind Mills

73

XIV References...74
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to thank Arvind, Naroda unit for giving us the opportunity to undergo training
in the textile department and for extending their support towards us all throughout our
internship.
We would also like to thank NIFT, Gandhinagar for giving us this opportunity and facilitating
our internship.
It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned and
advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all the people who guided us through
the entire process and made our training a success by sharing their knowledge.
We would like to thank Ms. Richa Ahuja, Sr. H.R. at Arvind, without whose support and
guidance the internship couldnt have been completed satisfactorily.
We are also grateful to our College mentor Ms.Amisha Mehta for guiding us at every stage
and making this project a success.

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OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

The project is based on a fifteen day internship, in Arvind Mills denim Department. It covers
all the information and learning experiences related to manufacturing of textiles, denim in
this case and all the processes involved namely:
Spinning
Dyeing
Weaving
Finishing
Testing
Packaging
The main objectives of the project/internship were:
1. Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.
2. In-depth study and understanding of all processes involved in textile production and the
machinery and equipment used.
3. Knowledge about the company
4. Understanding the companys process flow in production
5. Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.
6. Assess the faults and critical factors of production and determine the practices adopted by
Arvind Mills.

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INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Indian textile industry and Market Size

- Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial production
- 4 per cent of National GDP
- 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings
Market Size
- India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from the current 4%
to around 7% over the next three-years
Growth Rate
- 3-4 percent during the last six decade
- 9-10 percent during last five year

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COMPANY PROFILE
Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs. 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With
the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated
technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of
the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in
addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales
in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82
lakh.
In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom
churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their
markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of
profitability. At this point of time Arvinds management coined a new word for it new
strategy Renovision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than
the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from
domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. Cottons were the
largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced
segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind
entered the export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high
quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters
of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its
kind in India, at Santej. With Arvinds concern for environment a most modern effluent
treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also established.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to increase its current operations by setting up
world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop service, by offering garment
packages to its international and domestic customers.
Of Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and Tommy Hilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying
Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf, is setting its vision of becoming the largest
apparel brands company in India.

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COMPANYS VISION
(Information as collected from Company Website)

WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in
teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to
build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a
better place to live in.

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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT

The production Planning and Control department is the one that materializes the production
flow and monitors it. The head of PPC department is Mr Ajay Dwivedi. The main objective
of the production planning department is to execute mass production.

Sometimes the buyer selects the designs that he wants to get mass produced from the fabric
database of over 8000 design collection developed by the Research and Development
Department of Arvind Mills known as the DNTG department.
Other times the customer sends samples and requires the mass production for it. In such
cases, the DNTG department develops the procedures involved for production of that sample
by reverse engineering.
The PPC department then allots the machinery and time required for fulfilment of each
procedure accordingly. The lead time is also decided by PPC based on the order size, machine
availability, profits involved and the urgency as per the consumer.
In case of orders of lower quantities, the PPC has to strategize the execution of the order and
plan whether or not to accept it, since slasher and rope dyeing machines have limitations as to
the minimum amount of dyeing, for best results and avoidance of wastage.
The PPC department also plans separately for orders of export and domestic market as the
demand vary from region to region. Arvind also has its own retail brands, like Ruf and Tuf
jeans, but they are treated as buyers and not subsidiaries.

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The bottle neck operation that determines the lead time for the production is the weaving
procedure. The loom capacity depends on the following factors:

Construction of fabric
Loom Speed
Efficiency

The production planning team needs to coherently work on deciding whether the capacity of
the plant is enough to fulfil the order in the given lead time.
Usually the lead time for any particular order is 50 to 55 days, including all quality checks
inspection etc.
The thumb rule for calculation of lead time:

Pre- spinning procedures: 3 days

Spinning: 15-20 days
Warping and dyeing: 3 days
For every weaving cycle: 3 to 4 days(weaving cycle depends on the order quantity
and above mentioned factors)
Usually for one order about 8 to 10 weaving cycles are required
Finishing processes: 1 day for each process, if not covered in the integrated finish
processing machine.
Inspection: 2 to 3 days
Washing: 2 to 3 days

The production planning process for denims in Arvind is done on Excel. Though an attempt
was made previously to employ an ERP system, the project failed causing major loss of
capital because an ERP system does not work for such a huge company with such
diversification in the process. The PPC head, Mr. Dwivedi and his team are the ones, to plan
each and every step of the production process, and it is their responsibility to deliver high
quality products at the promised time.

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RAW MATERIAL STORAGE AND INSPECTION SECTION

Objective
The Raw Material Storage Department is the department from where the work starts in the
plant. The main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and reconciliation
of raw material intended for manufacturing.
System And Procedure
Work takes place in the following systematic order:
1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at Naroda
road, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.
2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the
Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.
3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Control Department (PPC).
4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the
characteristics of the yarn required.
5. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department.

Raw Material
100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn (for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation)
Loss: 1 % sizing, 2.3 to 2.5 % weaving, 1% warping (total 4 to 4.5%)
Role of Raw Material Department
It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the required
material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to
the seller end.
Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:
1. Pakistan Cotton
2. J34 SG
It is a selection from non-descriptive hirustum mixtures. It is a re-selection from Bikaneri
Narma. It is sown in the months of April/May and the crop is ready for picking by
October/December. J34RG and SG are grown in the states of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan
and total production per annum is around 2.6 million bales of each of 170 Kg.
3. Shankar-6 Gujarat cotton
It is sown in the month of June-July and is ready for picking in November and may extend
upto February. It is cultivated in an area of 4.4 million Acres in the state of Gujarat.
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4. Organic cotton
Organic cotton is being produced in-house by Arvind mills, and also being procured from
fully organic certified farms, as some environment conscious customers prefer to use it.
( Arvinds organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt district
of Maharashtra; Akola. )
Capacity of Raw Material Department
The textile industry is based on raw material capacity, which costs from 70 to 80% of
industry cost. Its capacity is about 1870 tons.
Material Purchase
In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibres and short staple fibres from Andhra
Pradesh, Rajasthan, Punjab, Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain prerequisites are
considered as to what kind of cotton fibres are required like Length, Strength, Fineness
(micronium per inch), and Uniformity Ratio.
Geeta cotton Co. Pvt. Ltd. (Andhra Pradesh)
Sai Venkata agro industries Pvt. Ltd (Andhra Pradesh)
Sri Ganganagar Pvt. Ltd. (Rajasthan)

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BLOW ROOM SECTION

Process Flow

Bale Opener
or Cotton
Plucker

GBR
Cotton
Opener

Axi Flow
Cleaner

MPM
Multiple
Mixer

ASTA
particle
cleaner

Rn cleaner

RSK cleaner

Dustek

A. Blending

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Blendomat machine by Truetzschler

Objective:
To open the cotton from matted condition to the loose open state in which it was before
baling.

Bale Specification:
1 Bale

: 110-167 Kgs

Machine Specification (Blendomat BDT 019):

Place of Origin
Brand Name
Model Number
Depth (Limit)
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Germany
Truetzschler
Blendomat BDT 019/2300
93-1789 Metres

The machine takes up 50-60 cotton bales (approx.) in 8.5 hours. Each cotton bale
weighs 110-167kgs.
Machine main supply
3Ph/Ac, 415V, 50Hz
Control circuit
1Ph/Ac, 24V, 50Hz
Mode of bale laying
Manual
Material in process
Cotton with seeds and impurities
Production
Upto 1600kg/hr
Power Consumption
12.6kW
Observations:

2 Hooks in reverse directions (Forward and backward).

The hook movement is opposite to the direction of machine movement.
Hooks are used to lift the cotton fiber so that opening can take place.
Sensors to prevent any disturbances.
Upto three bale groups at a time.
Feeding in upto three lines.
Upto 180 bales.

Process:

Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron.
Blending apron has sharp spikes that raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the
roll.
Some of the cotton stays on apron.
The cotton is knocked back by roll and continues to blend until picked up again by
apron.
Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll.
Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process that is blending through an
overhead duct.

Why is it done?
It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.

B. Opening

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GBR cotton opener

Machine Specification:
Place of Origin
Brand Name
Model Number
Material in process
Production
Power Consumption

Germany
Truetzschler
Bale Opener GBR
Cotton
Upto 400kg/hr
4.59kW

Process:

Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The
rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and
loosen up the mass.
The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan.
This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls
from which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.
Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to
another type of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to
picker.

Why is it done?
It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is
required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds, thus forming
homogenous mixtures.
C. Axi Flow Cleaner

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This is fitted with beaters. Cotton moves from GBR to axiflow by suction and impurities fall
below in a bin under the gravitational pull. The opened up mass of fiber rotates around two
cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder steel pins which beat the fiber material, allowing the
coarse particles to be separated. The time (in hours) of the passage of material can be
regulated. The speed range of the beaters varies from 400-600 rpm.
Objective:
Separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.
Machine Specification:
Place of Origin
Brand Name
Model Number
Pressure
Major parts

Germany
Truetzschler
052-2502
50-75 bar

Two metallic perforated cylinders and waste collector

D. MPM Multiple Mixer

Fitted with eight beaters. This sucks cotton from Axiflow and pumps to ASTA, meanwhile
sorting the cotton fibers. It is generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers.
Machine Specification:
Place of Origin
Brand Name
Model Number
Motor speed
Opening rolls speed
Number of chambers
Output

Pressure
Major parts

Germany
Truetzschler
10236
1750 rpm
800-850 m/min
10
30-36%
350 bar
This machine consists of material feed, reserve tank, reserve
tank flaps, optical sensor delivery, rollers, and material suction
funnel.

E. ASTA
Objective: Heavy trash separation from cotton.
The air and material enters the separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle
plates. Heavy particles are removed away from the lighter fibers by negative acceleration and
the force of gravity. The lower channel generates an opulent air stream in the area of baffle
plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.

Machine Specification:
Place of Origin
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Germany

Brand Name
Model Number
Principle

Truetzschler
ASTA 800
Principle of aerodynamics

F. DUSTEX
Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely enclosed in the
flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove dust 64% dust.
Machine Specification:
Place of Origin
Brand Name
Model Number
Principle
Cleaning efficiency

Germany
Truetzschler
CVT-4 1600
Principle of aerodynamics
64%

CARDING SECTION
Carding is the heart of the entire spinning process and as such requires utmost care. Next to
blow room, carding is the only major stage for cleaning cotton.

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(Gutenberg.org)
Objective
The object of carding is to open out thoroughly the tiny lumps or locks to a state where every
fibre becomes individualized and the cotton is no more in an entangled state. Equally
important is the removal of all the impurities, short fibres and finally it has to prepare the well
cleaned material into a compact sliver form and lay into containers for subsequent processing.
The main objectives of carding are:

Elimination of impurities
To open the flock into individual fibres
Fibre Blending
Short fibre separation
Elimination of dust
Fibre Alignment
Sliver Formation

(Clicked from Manual)

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Carding Machine
Input:
Output:
Number of Machines:
Machine Make:
Machine Speed:
Model:
Average Cycle Time:
No. of Workmen/Shift:
Humidity:
Temperature:
Production:
Card Cleaning Efficiency:
CV%:
Front Delivery Speed:
Pressure:

Clean and Open small tufts

Sliver
14
Trutzschler (Germany)
220 mpm
DK 803
30 min
2
56.5%
33.3 degree Celsius
1 ton/day
62-67%
1.2-1.7
210-240 meters per minute
325 pa

Machine Specifications
Cylinder Speed:
Licker-in Speed:
Doffer Speed:
Flat Speed:
Cylinder Diameter:
Licker-in Diameter:
Doffer Diameter:
Can Diameter:
Can Height:
Technical Specifications
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450-550 rpm
1100-1200 rpm
25-30 rpm
22-25 cm/min
1290 mm
250 mm
500 mm
24 inches
42 inches

Linear Density of Lap fed

Rate of Feed
Length of Sliver/Can
Weight of Sliver/Can
Linear Density of Sliver
Production/min
Production/hr
Production (kg/hr)

400 gm/m
500 gm/min
5500 m
26 kg
4.8 gm/m
85 m/min
5100 m/hr
25 kg/hr

DRAWING
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In the spinning process, the next important stage in the cotton process is draw frame. After
carding the individual fibres lay criss-cross in the web. These fibres require straightening and
parallelizing to the possible extent. Drawing is the process where the fibres are blended,
straightened and the number of fibres in the sliver increased in order to achieve the desired
linear density in the spinning process. The drawing process also improves the uniformity or
evenness of the sliver. The number of drawing passage utilised depends on the spinning
system used and the end products.

(Clicked from Manual)

Objective of drawing
To straighten the fibre in the slivers.
To lay them in a manner parallel to their neighbours and to the sliver axis.
To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers and its weight.
Process
Slivers are irregularly arranged and need improvement both in uniformity and fibre
straightening. It is accomplished by drafting them with pairs of rollers which are made to
revolve at different surface speeds. In Arvind mills, the sliver is drawn through the draw
frame twice. Parallel alignment of fiber is done and 6 Slivers are converted into one.

Input:
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Draw Frame
6 Sliver

Output:
Number of Machines:
Machine Make:
Model:
Average Cycle Time:
No. of Workmen/Shift:
No. of Doubling:
No. of Drafting:
Production:0
Machine Speed:
Drafting System:

1 Sliver
12
Padmatex/Trutzschler
Padmatex 720/ HSR 900
15 min
3
6
6
3.5 tons/day
650 rpm
4 over 3 Spring loaded top arm

Waste Collection Box

Drawing of Sliver
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SPINNING
Open End Spinning
The spinning process is employed for production of slub yarns. Rotor Spinning is a
more recent method of yarn formation compared to Ring Spinning.

This is a form of open-end spinning where twist is introduced into the yarn without
the need for package rotation. It allows higher twisting speeds with a relatively low
power cost.

Open End Spinning Department

Process

(Textilelearner.blogspot.com)
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Sliver is fed into the machine and combed and individualized by the opening roller.

The fibers are then deposited into the rotor where air current and centrifugal force
deposits them along the groove of the rotor where they are evenly distributed.

The fibers are twisted together by the spinning action of the rotor, and the yarn is
continuously drawn from the center of the rotor. The resultant yarn is cleared of any
defect and wound onto packages.

The production rate of rotor spinning is 6-8 times higher than that of ring spinning
and it is cheaper than ring spinning because of the continuous process involved.

Spinning Process
Major Problems:
High stock/inventory leads to problems of space availability and empty bobbins.
Neps are formed due to problems at card and raw material selection.
Yarn formed is usually of coarser count. Finer counts cannot be made.

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Production:
The plant at Naroda works entirely on open end spinning technology/rotor spinning and
produces 5400 to 5500 tonnes of yarn a month with 5472 rotors being around on campus.
The speed of the rotor roll varies from 80,000 rpm to 130,000 rpm.
Machine installed: Autocoro comb spin technology
Corolab - automated yarn monitoring system (automatic detection of defects by drop wire
technology)
The maximum count of yarn is 20.
Autocoro Machine Specifications:
Input:
Output:
Number of Machines:
Machine Make:
Average Cycle Time:
No. of Workmen/Shift:
Production:
Machine Speed:
Objective:

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Sliver
Yarn
7
Schlafhorst Autocoro 6E 9
8 hrs
3
2.2-4.5 tons/day (depending on count)
60000 to 90000 rpm (depending on count)
To convert sliver into twisted yarn
To wind yarn onto the package

WARPING
Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming parallel sheet
of yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines can process all type of
materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, textured and
smooth yarns, silk and other synthetic yarn such as glass.
A warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is known as weaver beam. A weaver beam
contains thousands of ends, but in denim production a beam obtained from warping is known
as section beam because denim is made from dyed yarn. Therefore first section beam is
obtained and then these section beams are combined on the stage dyeing and sizing to get
required number of ends for weaving process. In denim production initially the yarns are first
dyed and then weaving process is carried out.
There are two method of yarn dyeing in denim production:

Rope dyeing.
Slasher dyeing.

Warping method used for both methods of dyeing are different. The process used for rope
dyeing is known as BALL WARPING and for slasher dyeing BEAM WARPING method
is used.

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Beam Warping

Ball Warping

Ball Warping

Ball Warping Department

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In this system of warping the yarns are wound on a large cylindrical roll in the form
of twist less rope.
The balls are used for dyeing of denim fabrics.
In Arvind Mills, Ball warping involves creeling multiple ends of yarns (normally
350 to 500) and collecting them into an untwisted rope for dyeing.
This rope is wound onto a long cylinder called a log on a machine developed
specifically for this purpose (the ball warper).
All of the packages are then loaded into a creel.
The packages are placed onto adapters which are located on steel support pins
throughout the creel.
These adapters support the packages of yarn and insure that the package remains
aligned to the tensioning devices.
The next step involves threading the tensioners.
The warp beam, so produced is then combined on sizing for applying the size paste
and making the weaver beam.

(Techmechwarp.com)
Machine specification of Benningers warping machine
Model

AGCH 9240.

Max. Creel Capacity

640. (V-Creel used).

Min. Creel Capacity

334.

Speed

20m/min to 1200m/min.

Tensioner Type

Electronic.

Pressure

200daN to 600daN.

I. Pressure set on the basis of fines and coarseness of the yarn count, i.e. more coarse
more pressure is required to make the compact warping beam.

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II. In warping process humidity factor plays an important role because if humidity is less
than 80% then yarn breakage is more. For obtaining the required humidity
humidification duct are installed.
III. To maintain the tension steel rods are used. Tension value is giving according to the
yarn count.
IV. Electronic sensors are used to sense the yarn breakages.

Beam Warping
In direct warping, yarn are withdrawn from the single end yarn packages on the creel and
directly wound on a beam.
Passage of direct warping m/c

Creel

Guide

Stop
motion

Direct warping is used in two ways:

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Tension
er

Zig-Zag
Guide

Drum

Warping
Beam

a.) Direct Warping can be used to directly produce the weavers beam in a single
operation. This is especially suitable for stronger yarns that do not require sizing and
when the number of warp end are relatively small.
b.) Direct Warping is used to make smaller intermediate beam called warpers beam. The
smaller beam are combined later at the slashing stage (in the case of denim production
they will combine at the stage of dyeing and sizing range) to produce weaver beam.
This process is called beaming. For example if weaver beam contain 9000 ends then
there would we say 9 warper beams of 1000 ends. If this weaver beam were to be
made at one stage, the creel capacity must have 9000 yarn packages, which is hardly
possible to manage and accommodate. In the production of denim option b is
applied.
Manufacturer
Designation
Working width
Suitable for processing the following yarn
Speed range
Running speed
Braking mechanism
Tension range
Measuring roller device
Pressing roller force
Pressure
Comb
Control
Measuring instrument

Sucker Muller Hakoba

NZB D1000 Sensowarp
1600
A11
30 to 1000 mpm
475 mpm
Electromagnetic brake
8 to 50 cm
No
600 N/m
6.0 bar
Zig zag (+ve)
Electrical
Beam pressure Indicator, tachometer, warp
length pre setter

Beam drive
Beam doffing
Possible Beam Flange
Diameter
Size of Creel
Special feature of creel
Type of thread Tensioner
Type of warp stop motion on creel
Pitch
Other standard equipment of warping

Spindle Driven
Mechanical
1000 mm

Maximum weight of yarn on beam

Production/shift

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700
Motorized creel cutting
Pneumatic
Electrical
270mm
Length indicator
Warp tension checking
Movable wind screen
30-32 kg
18-19 beams

DYEING

Capacity:
Rope dyeing Capacity: 120000 m/day
Dyes used:

Indigo blue

Sulphur dye- Black, Brown, Green

In Arvind Mills the yarn is dyed and then it is weaved. The yarn dyeing is done
by two methods:

I.

Rope Dyeing

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The first section is known as setup section but after that it comes the machine layout portion
i.e. there are 19 Boxes through which Rope passes for pre-wetting section.

Denim dyeing is highly sophisticated. Indigo is a vat dye and is insoluble in water. Although
full shades can be obtained from the concentrated dyeing vats in only one pass, such dyeing
have inadequate fastness because indigo in the vatted or reduced state has only limited
affinity for cotton.
Dyeing is not in the fabric form but in the yarn stage. The warps are dyed; fabric is made
using undyed or different coloured weft. Yarn dyeing is basically of two types: ROPE
DYEING and SLASHER DYEING (sheet dyeing).The dyeing principle is same i.e. passing
the material through a dip vat, a subsequent squeezing to remove the excess and giving air
passage to allow the dyeing to oxidize.
Dyeing Styles:
- IBST: Indigo Bottom Sulphur Top - SBIT: Sulphur Bottom Indigo Top
- Indigo
- Sulphur
Others: GBIT(Green Bottom Indigo Top), VBIT, IBVT, IBBT, IBKT, Super Dark, IBIT etc.

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The first section is known as setup section but after that it comes the machine layout portion
i.e. there are 19 Boxes through which Rope passes for pre-wetting section.
Tank-1
PREWETTING: - This process is used to increase dye uptake and wet ability by mild
scouring to remove wax material and impurities. Bath contains sequestering agent, wetting
agent and caustic. In SBIT, Sulphur bottoming is done in this tank

Type: 1dip, 1 nip; Temperature: 50C

Tank Capacity: 6000l
Dip Time: 39 sec.; Aeration Time: 24 sec (at speed of 20m/min)
Prewetting Solution: Caustic (15gpl), PrimasolNF(wetting)

Tank-2-6
PRE-WASHING:- Used for removal of caustic and other chemicals from the rope.
Mercerization can also be carried out but again it is mild as there is no provision for
stretching and shrinkage. Mercerization (Floating Roller Type) is done to increase
dimensional stability, lustre and absorbency.

Temperature: 50C (Tank 2 and 3), R.T. (Tank 4), Tank 5 and 6 are usually bypassed.
(Note: Bath temperatures are maintained by steam-heated coils)

Pre Washing Bath

Tank-7-12
DYE BATH: - Used to carry out ring dyeing of denim with indigo. Repetitive dip and nip are
carried out. Aeration length is provided for oxidation of indigo. Type: 1 dip 1 nip;

33 | P a g e

Temperature: R.T.; Tank Capacity: 7200l pH-12.7-12.8; Potential: Dependent on dyeing style.
Dip time: 27 sec Aeration Time: 3 min (at speed 20m/min)

Tank-13
This bath may contain sulphur/indigo as per IBST or SDI style. For sulphur topping
Temperature: 85oC. (Note hardness of nip rollers varies from 70 to 80)

Tank-14
This bath may contain indigo if we are going for dark indigo or it may contain water for
washing if IBST style is running on the machine.

Tank-15
WASH BATH: - Detergent is used to remove superficial dye from the rope. Water jets are also
used at nip to remove unfixed dye. Temperature: 65OC; Tank Capacity: 3200-4000l. Detergent
used: Refnol DSW

Tank-16-18
POST-WASHING: To remove detergent or superficial dye

Tank-19
Softener helps in separation of ends in the Rebeaming process. Softeners for SDI style
SWPI (80gpl) and SRPL (pH-5.9). SBIT style- BA and Acid. IBST style- SPWBA (4-6 pH).
DRYING UNIT: Steaming/drying unit has 48 cylinders (3 sets) each with 5kg pressure.

34 | P a g e

COILING: The dyed rope is coiled in cans and taken to Rebeaming section

Dyed Rope in Coiled Form

Facts and figures:

Circulation is provided in each tank to ensure uniformity using overflowing system.

The machine has 2 jumbo pumps and 3 centrifugal pumps.

Redox and pH are measured after every 30 min.

35 | P a g e

Auto levellers are there to adjust tension using resistors.

Dyeing Capacity: 50 balls which is the highest in the world.

Rope dyeing unit has a control room which controls the concentration of various baths via
dosages and checking the shades using hunter lab.

About 97% shade consistency is there.

The machine stops for 5 hrs. If the new styles come.

30 different styles can be worked with different machine.

No of machines: -1.

There are one operator, two asst. operators and 6 workers.

Three workers are for colour preparation and the rest are for oiling and patrolling.

Dye preparation
a. Indigo preparation:
200kg indigo + 150kg caustic + 250kg hydrosulphite in 700-1000l water
Mix indigo and caustic in water for 2-3 hrs, cool for 1 hr and then add hydrosulphite and
again cool for 1 hr.
b. Sulphur dye preparation:Sulphur(x) + sulphite (1.2x) + premasol + decol + setapol (2gpl) + caustic (.5x) Dosage is set
and controlled by air valve
REBEAMING
The dyed rope is re-beamed in a beam of width same as that of weavers beam. The rope is
opened by passing it through a reed which ensures that the first end in the ball remains the
first end in the weavers beam.

36 | P a g e

Machine Specifications:

Make: West point WP

No. of Machines: 13
Machine mode: Semi-automatic with manual compression braking system
Speed: 100-250m/min
Production: 33000meters/shift

Precautions

The thread should not break and the knot should be so small that it should pass
through the needle eye.

Objective

The rope is converted into sheet and they also check for the shading yarn, which
remains un-dyed during the dyeing process.
One set of 10 beams giving for further sizing.
There are 20 workers per shift.

Per Shift Production:

1st -33,000 meter
2nd 33,000 meter
3rd 30,000 meter

37 | P a g e

(Protexdyeing.com)

II.

Slasher Dyeing

A slasher is a range and is normally employed to apply size formulations onto warp yarns
before weaving. This range, when used for slasher dyeing of indigo, consists of section
beams of warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn.

Creel zone

Washing zone
Pre-wet zone

Pre- Drying

Washing

Dyeing Zone

Sizing

Post drying

Compensator

38 | P a g e

(5

(Rabatex.com)

A slasher is a range is normally employed to apply size formulations onto warp

yarns before weaving.

This range when used for slasher dyeing of indigo consists of section beams of
warp yarn, which are forced into a sheet of yarn. 1 beam is 2500mts in length.

12 beams layers are put together in a sheet.

12 Beams

Each beam has 575 ends.

This yarn sheet is then fed into a scouring and washing section where natural
impurities are removed.

Temperature of 50 C is maintained and the sheet of yarns is under water for 4-5
seconds. The next section is where indigo is applied. In order to achieve fairly deep
shades, the indigo is applied in a series of 6 dips (After each dip, darker shade is
obtained, green oxidises to blue) and sky applications to allow for shade build up.
There is continuous colour feed in the dye bath. The dye application is followed by
after washing (normal water at 50 C) and drying. With some machinery
arrangement, warp size for weaving is immediately applied. For sizing the
temperature of 90 C is maintained in starch solution.

After starching post drying is carried out (5-7 % moisture) and thereafter there
comes the leasing zone, where there is separation of layers which were pressed
together. Here the number of beams in the leasing zone is equal to the number of
layer pressed together, i.e. 12 beams. The next section is the headstock; here rolls
on beams are prepared for weaving.

39 | P a g e

Slasher Dye Range

Slasher dyeing ranges have a number of advantages and unique characteristics. Slasher
dyeing employs a sheet of yarn, which is wound directly onto a warp beam rather than ropes
of yarn, which then requires additional handling. This type of dyeing works well with
lightweight denims. In general, these machines require less floor space, enable smaller
production runs, have a quicker turn over time, and are more flexible in their response to
changes in the market. As an overall process these ranges have lower machinery cost;
therefore, lower dye costs are realized for specific fabric types. Additionally, the slasher
dyeing technique can be used for other dye types for cotton and thus can produce a wide
variety of colours other than indigo blue. The sheet of yarns is dyed in a series of 6 dips.

Sheet of yarns being dyed.

The chemicals used in the dyeing and sizing range are as under:
(For dyeing)
Chemical Name

Description

Brand

Mercerol QWLF

Mercerizing agent

Clarient

Indigo

Dye stuff

China

Hyrdo

Reducer for indigo

BASF

Caustic soda 50% liquid

For general purpose

Local

Premasol NF

Anti-Foaming Agent

BASF

Setamol BL

Dispersing Agent

BASF

Sodium Sulphide

Reducer for Sulphur Black

China

Sulphur Black BR-200%

Dye stuff

Arvind

40 | P a g e

Formic acid

for pH control

Local

Hydrogen peroxide

for oxidation

Local

(For sizing)
Chemical Name

Description

Brand

Texo-Film Maiz Starch

Sizing

Rafhan

Size-O-Bond

Sizing Softener

FFD

Wax

Sizing wax

Local

Size CB

Binder

BASF

The difference between slasher dyeing and rope dying is:

ROPE DYEING

SLASHER DYEING

Warp yarn are in the form of a rope

Warp yarn are in the form of a beam

No centre to selvedge shade variation

Centre to selvedge shade variation

Good depth of shade and lower wash-down

Depth of shade not that good

Dyeing capacity around 11000m

Dyeing capacity around 5000m

The process has four steps- Warping, Dyeing,

Weaving, Sizing

For this process- Warping, Dyeing and

Sizing, Weaving

Require more area

Comparatively less area required

More labour required

Less labour required

Time consuming since rebeaming is required

Rebeaming is not required

SIZING
There are complete automatic computerized sizing machines (Benninger). Here they can load
2 sets at a time. In this machine, 2 sizing boxes having capacity of 400x2 lit in which warp
sheet passes through in such a way that 6beams(half sheet) pass through 1st size box and
other half sheet pass through 2nd size box and then they combine together for weave able
beams. The avg. maximum workable speed is 45-60m/min. the avg. production of this dept.
per day is ~50,000m.

41 | P a g e

(Aliexpress.com)
Following chemicals we are currently using in Sizing are:
Chemical Name
Texo-Film Maiz Starch
Arca Base
Size-O-Bond

Description
Starch
Acrylic Binder
Sizing Softener

Company
Rafhan
FFD Brothers
FFD Brothers

Checking and monitoring the sizing process

Programming the machine:-

The easy to follow visualization and recipe management, in which all the machine and textile
parameters are stored, permit fast and simple programming.

Sizing monitoring:-

The sizing process is automatically monitored. All set points are specified with upper and
lower tolerance limits. Deviations from the programmed value are displayed at once and
instructions for their rectification are explained in the language of the operator.

Controlled tensions:-

The special arrangement of rollers in the 3- roller set prevents threads from slipping through
and keeps the thread tension constant in the dry split section when changing beams.

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(Cogliandro.com)

Reproducible size cooking:-

The SIZEMIX cooker, equipped with a high powered agitator ensures homogeneous liquor.
The cooker is programmed via the size recipe at the machine PC. In this way, cooking
temperature, water quantity and cooking time are preset and automatically maintained.
Attendance takes place optionally from the PC or directly at the cooker.

Proposed numbers of ends/inch in size box:-

The table describes the numbers of ends/inch of ring spun and open end yarn in size box
according to count.
Maximum ends/inch in Size box
Yarn count
Ring Spun
Open End
10
35
31
20
50
45
25
56
50
30
62
56
35
66
60
40
71
64
50
80
72

Viscosity of size paste:-

Viscosity of size pate should not deviate from required value. Less viscose paste makes
adhesion of size material well but coating on the surface of the yarn is not done properly.
While paste with higher viscosity coats the yarn very well but adhesion of paste into the core
of yarn in terms of increasing its strength is not done properly.

Size box temperature control:-

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The degree of size penetration and coating depends not only on the nature of yarn & the size
solution but also upon the viscosity which in turn largely depends on the temperature. It
should be about 200F-206F. Fluctuation should be 3 F. The temperature gauge should be
installed on the size box. Perforated copper pipe lining is laid in the bottom of size box to
supply the steam for keeping the paste warm up to the above mentioned temperature. Low
temperature will make gelling of paste which will not penetrate through the yarn and higher
temperature create thinning of the size paste which is also unsuitable to be used as sticky
paste. So to maintain the temperature of above value is very important. If the size paste is
prepared with rich PVA or CMC then temperature of 75C to 80C is sufficient.

Moisture content in the yarn:-

The moisture content in the sized yarn should not go below 6%. Otherwise the coating of size
film will not allow absorbing moisture in the loom shed which is necessary for good working.
For this moisture monitor is being supplied with the machine. The temperature of the drying
cylinders should be kept 140-150 to maintain 6-7% moisture in the yarn.

WEAVING

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Weaving is the interlacing of warp filling yarns perpendicular to each other at 90 degree.
There are practically an endless number of ways of interlacing warp and filling yarn.

(Hiwtc.com)
Weaving Machine (Loom)
The weaving machines are named after their filling insertion system. Schematics of the filling
insertion systems that are used in the market are:
I. Shuttle
II. Projectile
III. Rigid rapier
IV. Flexible rapier
V. Air jet
VI. Water jet
Based on the filling insertion system, the weaving machine can be classified as shuttle and
shuttle less weaving machines. Shuttle looms have been used for centuries to make woven
fabrics.
Air Jet Weaving
Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed
with compressed air. Air-jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems and a profiled reed.
Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is measured for
the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the filling yarn by the stopper, the
filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles, which provide the initial
acceleration. The relay nozzles provide the high air velocity across the weave shed. Profiled
reed provides guidance for the air and separates the filling yarn from the warp yarn.

Advantages of Air-Jet Weaving Machine

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High productivity.
High filling insertion system.
Reduced hazard because of few moving parts.
Low noise and vibration.
Low spare parts requirements.
To increase the production of loom by increasing the speed and by increasing the
width of loom.
Machines are versatile and roust to produces light to heavy value added fabric.
Almost all loom motions are being controlled electronically.
These looms can be operated up to 40 looms per operated.
Fully automatic lubrication system.
Produce 100% export quality goods.

LOOM MOTIONS
There are three types of loom motions which are given below:
Primary Loom Motions

Shedding
Picking
Beating
Take-up motion
Let-off motion

Secondary Motion
Warp stop motion
Weft stop motion
Warp protector motion
Weft replenishing motion
Auxiliary Motion
Terry motion
Selvedge motion
Weft petering motion
Temples
Brake

46 | P a g e

Weaving Department (Arvind Mill)

Process Flow:

LOOMING IN
It is process of drawing of warp yarn through the drop pins, heald frames, and reed which is
then mounted on the loom for weaving.
KNOTTING IN
If the same weft & warp count, same weave are to be employed then the yarn from the new
warp beam is tied to the previous one (end-end knotting). A knotting m/c is used for this
purpose.
UNIT SPECIFICATIONS:
No. of Looms: 203 Air jet Looms: 155 Air jet looms of model ZAX, 48 looms of type 209i.
Average production capacity-2.7lakh meter/day.
Average monthly production -80 lakh meter/day (product wise vary) .
100% Denim oriented.
Efficiency: 88%.
47 | P a g e

Reasons for low efficiency:

a) 4-5% efficiency loss due to electrical problems
b) 1-2% efficiency loss due to material stock-out
c) Absenteeism of workers
d) Maximum Operating Speed: 750 picks/min
e) Operating speed: 663 picks/min
f) Selvedge Types: Loose, Reverse, Mat Selvedge
Defects and Faults commonly found after weaving:
Floats
Short pick
Defective shedding
False Stop
Breakage
Missing Ends
Knots, Pulls
Fluffs
Size Residue
Start Marks
Different lights of signals and there meanings:
Red: warp stop.
Red: waste selvedge stop.
Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, right hand.
Yellow: full leno selvedge stop, left hand
Green: weft stop by WF1 (color1)
Green: weft stop by WF2 (color2)
White (Flashing): cloth beam full.
White (Flashing): cloth beam to be doffed
White: stop switch pressed.
White Flashing: Emergency stop button pressed.
Green-TAPO: processing interrupted by an external access
Green-TAPO: Inoperable over.
Man power division in weaving
10 Looms / weaver
Around 40 looms /supervisor
1 knotter / 80 looms
2 dressers /80 looms
4 helper / 80 looms
1 maintenance /shift 2 shift in charge
Key Points:
206 machines (154ZAX)
100% denim products
48 | P a g e

Running 24 hours 364 days continuously

1 day in a month to clean the waste
3 shifts
Worker strength= 415
251 per shift on machines
15 staff members (1 maintenance in charge, 1 quality in charge, 1 head of the
department)

Technical Details Of The fabric Twill- 3 by 1

5.3s count to 20 s
Width of the fabric-64.5, 68.5, 71.5
Maximum width possible is 119 metres.
Picks per inch 30ppi-68ppi
Ends per inch: 52epi-104epi
Machine specification:
1. ZAX- 750 rpm
2. Tsudakoma-650rpm
Diameter Range: 1100mm
Efficiency:
90%

980mm
90%

Machine Details:
2 types of Stop Motion - Warp Stop Motion
Weft Stop Motion - 2 stops. H1 (edge), H2 (excess)
Leno motion to balance the structure at the ends.
No of ends= no of heald shafts
Fabric twill= 3x1 and selvedge= 1x3 so that when it is passed through stenters, it is not
damaged.
Preventive measures
Ear plugs
Mask
Safety shoes
Safety training
Fire extinguisher
Waste percentage: 2.4-2.5
If stoppage more, rpm less, quality less.
750 rpm without stoppage and is calculated per 24 hours.
36 stoppage in 24 hours are acceptable.
Mending time will affect the quality of fabric.
1 beam of fabric requires 60 hours with minor stoppage.
49 | P a g e

1 or 2 hours stop of machine after every beam.

FINISHING
Finishing of greige denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important
role in fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage.
The department churns out 3,00,000 meters of finished denim cloth a day. The following are
the finishes carried out.
1. SINGEING UNIT
Technically, singeing refers to the burning-off of loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn
and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pre-treatment. If not done properly,
unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and results in pilling.
Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics. The denim fabric
is then passed through a singeing unit. Here the fabric is singed two times on the face
side at a temperature of 800 to 990 degrees.

Process FlowCradle Unit

J Scray Unit
Unit Specification50 | P a g e

Brushing Unit

Nip Unit
Singeing Unit

Capacity: 40-50 m/min

Production: 41000-45000 m/ day

15000-17000 m/shift

CNG Gas Burner - 90

Flame Interaction

3 operator per machine

Company-Oshthoff(Germany)

Gas Singeing

Objectives & Advantages of Singeing:

Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface which allows the
structure of the fabric to be clearly seen.
Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics. The risk of
pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced in case of singed
fabrics.
Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity and detail.
The risk of skitter dyeing with singed articles dyed in dark shades is considerably
reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing which could cause
diffused reflection of light.
Singeing Process
To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibres first the fabric
surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fibre ends.
Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas flames.
The fibre ends burn off.
The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fibre ends are destroyed.
As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water bath or desizing bath.
This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.
Precaution during Singeing:
Some of the precautions to be taken in considerations during singeing: The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tends to scorch more readily than
dry.
Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is finished.
Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in warp
direction.
The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt, which may release acid on
heating and tender the fabric.
Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics.
Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics.

51 | P a g e

The burning characteristics of fibres must be taken into account when this process is
applied, as heat-sensitive fibres melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric.
These balls interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat sensitive
fibres would be singed after dyeing or printing.

Precautions:

The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tends to scorch more readily than
dry. Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is
finished. Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in
warp direction.
The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt, which may release acid on
heating and tender the fabric.
Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics. Singeing may cause hardening
of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics. The burning
characteristics of fibres must be taken into account when this process is applied, as
heat-sensitive fibres melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the fabric. These balls
interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat sensitive fibres would be
singed after dyeing or printing.

Methods of Singeing:
1. Plate Singeing Machine 2. Roller Singeing Machine 3. Gas Singeing Machine Gas Singeing is intended for single and double face singeing of fabric with
passes through the guide roller. Then in brushing zone which rotate in the
sense opposite to fabric to be singed. The brushes are placed in a special
chamber from which dust and fluff removed from the fabric are exhausted by
a fan. Then the fabric passes over gas burner with ceramics nozzles where
singeing is covered out. Coming out of the gas singeing machine a box
containing water. This bath may also contain desizing agent. In this way after
singeing we can desize and batched the fabric.

2. MERCERIZING UNIT
Mercerization is a finishing treatment of cotton with a strong caustic alkaline solution in
order to improve the lustre, hard and other properties. During mercerization, singeing or
desized material is used. The mercerization unit has a total of 7 rollers which move at a speed
of 42 rpm. The tank has a capacity of 3 tonnes. Caustic soda is used during this process and
52 | P a g e

full pressure is applied to remove traces of extra caustic soda. This process has a brusher unit
as well and reisky padders.

Process Flow
Trolley
Tank

Feeding Unit

Plaiter

Brush Unit

Drying Range

Steamer Unit

Washing Tanks (7)

Caustic

Stabilizer Unit

Machine Specifications

Speed- 42m/min.
Company- DHALL
Temperature of Water Tank- First four at 60C and fifth at room temperature.
Fluid- 2 tanks with caustic acid and last with neutraliser.

Effect of Mercerization Improve Lustre.

Increase ability to absorb dye.
Improve reaction with a verity of chemicals.
Improve stability of form.
Improve strength/elongation.
Improve smoothness.
It has been shown that the increase in the lustre occurs because of an effect.
The cotton fibre do convoluted.
The cross-sectional shape changes.
Factors of Mercerizing In mercerizing followings are important:
1. Twaddle (Concentration of NaOH):

53 | P a g e

If the concentration of NaOH is increased above 56oTw improvement in lustre will be

attained but if it is decrease below 48o Tw. The quality of lustre will begin to be adversely
affected.
2. Temperature:
High degree of lustre is attained at temperature 18-20oC. As the temperature is increased the
quality of lustre is adversely affected but on lowering the temperature no improvement in the
lustre is obtained.
3. Tension:
For acquiring better lustre the material must be stretch to its original dimension (both in warp
and weft direction during mercerization). If the material is allowed to shrink during
mercerizing then quality of lustre will be impaired on the other hand if the material is
stretched more no improvement in lustre is achieved.
4. Time:
The optimum time for mercerizing is 30-60 seconds by increasing the duration of time no
applicable improvement in the quality of mercerization can be achieved but if the time limit
is less than 30 seconds in the quality of mercerization will be improved.

3. STENTERING UNIT
Stenter is a finishing machine which dries up the cloth and removes the dimensional
instability that occurs during the processing. The final finishing of fabric is always done on a
Stenter. The Stenters are normally provided with a padder, a bow and a weft straightener
device. The cloth to be finished passes through the padder, where finishing chemicals are
added and goes through bow and weft correction device before entering the drying chamber.
It can be either pad or dip stenter. The pair chains hold the cloth horizontally. The process is
pad-dry and drying is achieved by blowing hot air in the stenter chamber. The stenter is the
most important machine in the finishing for stretching or stentering fabrics.
The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine
dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also
shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric width-wise
and to recover the uniform width.
Sometimes wetting agent for example a mixture of surface active compound are used as
chemical for the heat setting and stretching process.
Process Flow -

Inlet J Scray
Unit

54 | P a g e

Chemical
Padder

Clipping
Unit

Coiler
Drum

Batching
Unit

Brushing

Foam
Coating Unit

Chamber
CNG
Blower
Heat Setting

Outlet
J Scray
Unit

Function of Stenter Machine: Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
Spirality controlled by the stenter.
GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
Components of Stenter Machine: Padders
Weft straightener
Burners - 10
Heat recovery
Attraction rollers
Circulating fans - 10, 8
Exhaust fans - 2
Winder - 2
Clips
Pins
I.R
Cooling drums 2
Stentering Unit Components: Inlet J Unit

55 | P a g e

Brushing Unit - In the integrated finishing range, the grey denim fabric is first passed
through a brushing and suction unit, where loose lint, fluff are removed from the
fabric surface. The protruding fibres adhere on the fabric surface are also raised to
burned in the next process.

Chemical Padder - The denim fabric is then padded to apply finish to the fabric. Here
the fabric passes into a full immersion pad and finish is added at high wet pick up.
The finish is necessary to properly lubricate fabric for the subsequent skewing
operation. The chemical used is caustic soda.

56 | P a g e

Foam Coating Unit- It depends on the style of the fabric. Foam coating unit is to coat
colour on either side of denim. Coating can be done on both sides: Bottom Applicator,
Top Applicator. Both have different operators.
Mahlo (Weft Pulling) - When the fabric is passed through Mahlo, the fabric is gripped
by the clips to elongate the fabric. These clips are joined to endless chains which go to
9 chambers.

Chamber- There are 9 chambers provided in the machine for drying. Each chamber
has blowers and filters to separate dust from air.
Outlet J Unit

57 | P a g e

Batching Unit

Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders
where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is
entered into the weft straightener. The function is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric
is gripped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they
pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips. These
clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 9 chambers provided on the machine
each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air
within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of the
machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber. Temperature is
adjusted that according to the fabric as for,

PC 210C
Cotton 110-130Cc

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After dyeing 160-170 C and after print 130-140 C.

4. FOAM FINISHER
The foam finishing technology (FFT) process is a novel application system for treating
porous substrates with foamed chemicals at very low wet pick-ups. It involves the use of a
rapidly-breaking low-density foam or froth as the delivery medium for finishing chemicals,
precise metering and flow control for delivery of foam to the substrate, pressure-driven
impregnation of the foam into the substrate, and an applicator system designed to allow
uniform high-speed application and collapse of the foam in a single step.

Machine Specifications
Arrangement Foam Unit- Foaming Agent AGROSOFT is used and is uniformly applied
with the help of a knife.

Nip Roll-

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 Skew Roll- It is used to correct the distortions in the fabric due to different
processes. Skew is done by providing tension through rollers.

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 Sanforizer- A machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is
done to control the shrinkage of the fabric and gives dimensional stability by
applying mechanic forces and water vapour.

Palmer- It is used for ironing and pressing the fabric as it is rolled out of the
machine.

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 Outlet- The fabric comes out in a bundle form and is collected in a trolley.

Machine Maker- Monfort

Objective- Width wise and lengthwise shrinkage, Skew
Machine Speed- 25m/min
Capacity Per Day- 30,000 metre/day
No. of workmen per shift-3
Input Material- Greige Fabric

Advantages of FFT:

Get low pick up even down to 5% for various applications, quicker water drying with
energy saving of more than 50%.
Chemicals can be saved in many circumstances in textile finishing treatments.
Stenter speed can be increased for drying or stenter, predrying can be eliminated.
Minimized down time compared to padding process.
Shorten the length of equipment, plant and reduce the investment.
Reduce environmental pollution and water waste.
Can be carried on single or double-side of fabric (can be imposed on both sides with
different agents).

5. WET FINISHING
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In this, chemical treatment is given to fabric, either to change its appearance or basic
properties. These finishes are usually durable and permanent or wet finishes.
Wet process is usually done on the manufactured assembly of interlacing fibres,
filaments, and/or yarns having substantial surface (planar) area in relation to its
thickness, and adequate mechanical strength to give it a cohesive structure. In other
words, wet process is done on manufactured fabric.
The processes of this stream is involved or carried out in aqueous stage and thus it is
called wet process which usually covers pre-treatment, dyeing, printing and finishing.
All of these stages are required aqueous medium which is created by water. A massive
amount of water is required in these processes per day. It is estimated that, on an
average, almost 100 litre of water is used to process only 1 kg of textile goods.
Water can be of various quality and attributes. Not all water can be used in the textile
process, it must have some certain properties, quality, colour & attributes for being
used in textile processes. That is why water is a prime concerned in wet processing
engineering.

Process Flow
a. Infeed - The fabric is fed through J Scray structure.

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b. Brushing - Brushes are used to remove extra waste fibre on fabric surface known as
pumb.

c. Padding (Chemical) - Chemicals are used and the fabric is dipped in it as it passes
through padder tank.

d. Padder Nip - It takes out all the extra chemical and water. Only 15% is left as
moisture within the fabric. So nip rollers are used to squeeze the water.
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e. Mahlo Unit (Skew) - It has 4 rollers and adjusting instrument from which the amount
of tension that should be provided is adjusted. It is used to rectify the distortion in the
fabric. Moisture Content-11.7%.

f. Drying Zone - 10 Cylinders with hot steam passing is used to dry the fabric and
prepared for robber unit with 10 Dragon rolls.

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g. Rubber Unit - Temp: STD+-5 degree Celsius. It is same as Sanforizer in which rubber
belt is used and fabric is passed through roller and rubber belt.

h. Palmer Unit - It is used to iron or press the fabric.

During wet-finishing, any fugitive dye can be dealt with, threads will slide to areas of least
resistance so that weave structures such as waffle weave and lace weave will develop to their
full potential, woollens can be fulled, and small inconsistencies in the cloth due to reed marks
or irregular beating will be reduced or eliminated altogether.

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INSPECTION

Arvind follows 100 percent inspection procedures. The acceptance level of the fabric
depends on the customer preferences.
Rolls are also made according to customer needs e.g. in Western countries customers
demand bigger rolls (250m) since their production processes are mostly mechanized
where the roll changing activity is supported by robotic arms and other heavy duty
machines; whereas in South-East Asian countries, things are generally done manually
so the customers demand smaller roll sizes (80-85m) owing to their smaller heights.
4-point grading system is used for inspection of fabrics
Size of defect

Penalty Points

3 or less
3 to 6
6 to 9
More than 9
Holes or Openings (Largest Dimensions)
1 or less
More than 1

1
2
3
4
2
4

Points per 100 square yards = Total points scored in the roll x 3600
Fabric width in inches x Total yards inspected
The inspection of fabric is carried out at 3 different departments:

- Rope Dyeing inspection (30 machines)

- AML inspection(10 machines)
- CDR inspection(4 machines)
Tube Light
+
Inspected
Roll
Inspection
Board
+

Finished
Fabric
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Inspection Machine

The machine made by Microtek has an inspection board, guide rollers and a winding unit.
The inspection frame is aligned at an angle between 45 and 60 degrees.
Speed of fabric on inspection machine : 25m/min
Light of 100 Lux
Inclination: 57
Cost of inspection : Rs0.65/metre
At the beginning of the month the inspection department gets the production plan for the
entire month and they plan their procedures accordingly. The finishing department gives the
material transfer note to the inspection department where the material is checked for the
following defects:

Spinning related Defects

- Warp Slub
- Weft Slub
- Thick end
- Coarse/fine weft
- Weft bar
- Moir

Weaving preparatory related defects

- Knot
- Slack end
- Ball formation
- Size patches

Weaving related defects

- Starting mark
- White patti
- Pick finding
- Tight end
- Weft float

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- Bent pick
- Chira
- Knot
- Repaired warp
- Double end
- Weft patti

Fabric Dyeing/Sizing related defects

- Blue patches
- Slack end
- Ball formation
- Size patches

Finishing related defects

- Finishing crease
- Fluff daghi
- Foam mark
- Bent selvedge
- Blanket impression
- Stitch
- Shade variation

The finished cloth roll ranging from 500m to 1800m (big roll) is loaded onto the machine
where the fabric is unrolled, checked visually for any defects and the rewinding is done into
smaller rolls of 85-135m (a roll can maximum be cut into 2 parts) which are as per the
customer demands.
The fabric is graded into categories ranging from Category 9 to Category 1 depending on the
points scored per 100m according to the Four Point Grading System. Lesser the points
obtained better the fabric and vice-versa.

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Total Defect Points/ 100sq. Grade

yards
0 11
9
More than 11
8/7
More than 20
6/5
More than 40
4
Continuous Pattern
3
2 Part with no defect
2
Continuous Defect
1

Length of fabric
More than 30m
More than 30m
More than 30m
More than 30m
10- 30m
More than 10m

A 30cm strip of fabric is cut from the end of every roll before a new roll starts winding. This
strip is a representative of that roll. It cut into 6 parts width-wise and sent to the sampling
department and DNTG. The DNTG prepares a blanket by stitching all the swatches together
along with the original sample swatch provided by the buyer and conducts various tests and
washes.
The fabric is then packed and is dispatched to the buyer in three categoriesLight, Medium, Dark according to their depth of shade. This helps the buyer in reducing
garment shade variation.

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TESTING
Arvind Mills has five departments for Quality Assurance: Cotton, Yarn, Calibration,
Chemical and Fabric.
Laboratory

Offline

On floor

They conduct physical and chemical tests. Chemical test includes pH and colour fastness.
Physical test includes shrinkage, dimensional stability, skewness, width, weight of fabric,
stiffness of fabric, and strength of fabric.
The samples are tested for/by:
1. Yarn unevenness: USTER TESTER 5
2. Statex CSP(cascade strength tester) system: yarn count and strength, trash separator
3. Single Yarn Strength Tester : UTR3 : for stretchable yarns
4. Instron 4465:ASTM D5034 : Tensile Test for fabric
5. Elemendorf Tearing Strength: ASTM D1424 : tearing strength check by application of
9000g force
6. Chatillon Stiffness Tester- ASTM D4032 resistance to bending
7. Paramount humidity checker- for humidity control. %RH = Instrument Reading + 1%
8. Stretch/elongation test-ASTM 3107 - weight of 1.35 kg applied on a designated
swatch sample for half an hr (for Levis). Total process is of 1 hr 30 minutes.
9. Dimensional Stability and skew movement test
10. Shrinkage test- measure shrinkage after washing thrice + conditioning

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11. Twist tester- Statex (14.4 tpi)

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Shade testing:
The software used for shade testing is EASY MATCH.

HunterLab's EasyMatch QC software gives unprecedented flexibility to process,

display, analyze and report color measurement results.
Color measurement and analysis software reports absolute and color difference data in
all widely used color scales, for various lighting and observing conditions. Pass/Fail
functions provide fast go/no-go decisions.
Data can be reported numerically in tabular or spreadsheet form.
Data can also be graphically displayed as color difference plots, trend plots and
spectral curves.
All results can be viewed, stored, printed or imported into your database programs.
The software uses a spectrophotometer to record observations, and plots deviations
from avg and perfect sample for each roll.
It also provides pass and fail options for rolls that deviate too much from noraml
value making it very easy for the operator to assure quality and minimise shade
variation.
It also helps in shade wise differentiation and categorisation of rolls. So that the
consumer may be able to easily distinguish between lots of various shades

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Chemical testing
Tests requested by preferred customers:

LEVIs Test

method

Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

AATCC-8

SPOT TEST

SI 1005

WATER repellancy

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali

ISO 105-E04

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VF corporation Test method

Ph

AATCC-81

Crocking

AATCC-8

WASHING

AATCC-81

POLO method
Ph

ISO-3071

Crocking

ISO 105*12

SPOT TEST

SI 1005

WATER repellancy

ISO 105-E01

Acid

ISO 105-E02

Alkali

ISO 105-E04

Washing

C06-AIM

Physical tests Conducted in the lab:

Fibre testing USTER HVI Spectrum
Sample is received after opening from cotton lint opener machine.

PACKAGING
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Shrink wrap packaging is being done, to resist humidity.

Details on the packages:
1. Shipment no.
2. Date/ Shift
3. Sort no
4. F.M.C
5. Code no
6. Meters
7. Flags/points
8. 4 points
9. Opt no.
Rolls of approx. 135m each sealed by polythene
Specification of polythene cover: Plastic bags of 23 micron used
Inspection = 5000m/shift/machine
Thus, packing= 35-40 rolls/shift

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS AT ARVIND MILLS

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Arvind Mills commits itself to continually improve our environmental management. It strives
to go beyond the requirements of the applicable environmental laws & other regulations
through:

Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water.

Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste & air
emissions.
Maximizing the recycling of inevitable wastes.
Encouraging suppliers & buyers to become environmentally responsible.
Maintaining a safe working environment.
Increasing the green cover.
Training employees on environmental issues.

Water Treatment at Arvind Mill

Arvind Limited also possesses chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 10000 m3/day
of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.
Effluents due to washing:
The effluents are generated from the washing carried out in between successive processes.

In the dye house, after dyeing activity, fixation of dye is one of the most important
stages.
Usually, 70-80% of fixation is practicable and the rest i.e. 20% of the dye used
comes out in the effluent generated due to washing.
Effluent generated from the dye house has high concentration of pollutant as
compared to other processes in the textile processing unit.
It also contains high amount of inorganic salts like sodium sulphate or sodium
chloride which is used for dye fixing and acts as an electrolyte.

Effluents due to Mercerization

Mercerization imparts shining characteristic to the fabric.
Washing after mercerization generates typical effluent containing caustic solution and
other impurities.
Bleaching is done by peroxide method.
Treatment:
The treatment processes at the water treatment plant at Arvind is divided into three parts:
i)
Main treatment facility,
ii)
Pre-treatment (prior to reverse osmosis)
iii)
Reverse osmosis.
Main treatment facility:
Effluent in the form of generated from the sizing & de-sizing, bleaching & sections are
subjected to processes, both physical and chemical
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Effluent is collected in an equalization tank.

After pH adjustment there is addition of poly electrolytes
Then the effluent is sent to the clarifier for sedimentation.

Effluent from the dyeing unit is collected separately in an equalization tank where:

pH is adjusted and a chemical is added in acidic medium (pH 5.5) to decolorize the
effluent. The unit uses a chemical Micro Plus which is claimed to act as a colour
removal agent.
This effluent is then mixed with the entire effluent from the mercerized, sizing &
humidification sections.
These effluents are then fed into biological system comprising of degradation of
organic components by microorganisms
Then it is sent to sedimentation in clarifier and to the aeration unit.
In the aeration unit it is kept for a time of approximately 16 hours DO level is
maintained at 2.5 to 3.0.

Pre-treatment facility:
Pretreatment or primary treatment facilities are adopted before the effluent is subjected to
reverse osmosis. This stage comprises of two unit operations in succession turbocirculator
followed by pressure sand filter. Turbo circulator is basically a flash mixer.
After main treatment facility, poly aluminium chloride, poly electrolyte are added in the
effluent and are passed to turbo-circulator and then to the sand filter before being subjected to
reverse osmosis. The unit has intermediate storage tank of capacity 2400 cubic meter for
storage of the treated effluent.

Reverse Osmosis:
After pre-treatment the effluent is sent to the reverse osmosis plant. Reverse osmosis is just
the reverse process of osmosis. Osmosis as we know, is a natural process and is the tendency
of two liquids of different concentrations separated by a semi permeable membrane, to move
from low to high concentrations for chemical potential equilibrium. But in reverse osmosis,
when high pressure is applied, liquid moves from high concentration to lower concentration.
Reverse (RO) is a method that removes many types of large and from solutions by applying
pressure to the solution when it is on one side of a selective. The result is that it is retained on
the pressurized side of the membrane and the pure is allowed to pass to the other side.
Reject of the reverse osmosis plant is fed into the desalination plant (thermal). Backwash of
the sand filter is fed into the main treatment facility.
Total cost of treating the effluent for the said unit is approximately Rs. 4.5/ cu.m. of effluent
including RO plant cost.
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Air pollution Control:

Arvind Limited has switched from liquid fuel to Natural gas for all their heating & steam
requirements in order to avoid the air pollution.
Solid Waste Management
All the units believe in waste minimization measures. The plant is provided with adequate
sludge Dewatering facilities with decanter centrifuges. De-watered sludge is dried in solar
evaporation pans for further volume reduction. Waste oil generated in all the units is recycled.
Polythene liners, discarded containers are disposed-off to the respective buyers.

CONCLUSION
Our college gave us this opportunity to intern in a prestigious textile company-Arvind
Limited, located in Naroda, Ahmedabad and we exploited it to our advantage. Our
supervisors in the industry helped us in understanding of the working of machines which we
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studied in theory and helped in increasing our practical knowledge. It not only helped us with
technical knowledge, it also taught us how does an industry work and how the man force is
managed. This internship proved as a useful tool for increasing our experience and
knowledge which will help us further in studies.

REFERENCE
About Arvind,
http://www.academia.edu/4948484/ARVIND_LIMITED_DENIM_DIVISION_ARUSHI_SR
IVASTAVA_VAISHALI_RAI, 08/06/2015
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Analysis on the defects in Yarn Manufacturing Process & its Prevention in Textile Industry,
Neha Gupta
Blow Room, http://www.truetzschler.com/fileadmin/user_upload/truetzschlerspinning/brochures_downloads/Putzerei/indisch/Blow%20Room_EN.pdf, 26/05/2015
Cotton Carding, https://archive.org/details/practiceincotton00lind, 26/05/2015
Dyeing, http://www.thiestextilmaschinen.com/104/Textile_Machines/Fabric_Dyeing/ecoflow_95.htm, 27/05/2015
Dyeing Machines, http://www.nptel.ac.in/courses/116104046/19.pdf, 27/05/2015
Fabric Inspection, http://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/1405/1405.6177.pdf, 03/06/2015
Fabric Inspection, http://nordstromsupplier.com/npg/PDFs/Quality%20and
%20Manufacturing/E%20-%20Fabric%20Inspection%20Guidelines%208-24-10.pdf,
03/06/2015
Fabric Inspection, http://designerentrepreneurs.com/blog/illustrations/NPG_fabric_inspection.pdf, 03/06/2015
Initiating coverage, JM Financial, March 2014
Overview of Textile Processing, http://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/textileprocesses.html, 2/06/2015
Packaging, http://textilelearner.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/packtech-textile-packagingmaterial.html, 03/06/2015
Processing of Textiles, http://www.greenpeace.to/publications/textiles_2005.pdf, 2/06/2015
Quality Assurance, http://www.design-technology.info/QAandQC/, 4/06/2015
Quality Assurance, http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/9/847/quality-assurance-intextile-education1.asp, 4/06/2015
Quality Assurance, http://richagroup.com/test_process.aspx, 4/06/2015
Quality Assurance, http://www.texanlab.com/documents/downloads/4.pdf, 4/06/2015
Quality Assurance, http://richagroup.com/test_process.aspx, 4/06/2015
Quality Assurance , http://www.jaking.com/products/tft/textile-testing-consumables/lightfastness-standards-iso-aatcc/, 4/06/2015
Spinning, www.rieter.com/cz/machinessystems/.../the-rieter-manual-of-spinning.pdf,
28/05/2015
Spinning Machines, http://www.exapro.com/textile-machines-texapro-spinning-spinningmachines-c547/, 28/05/2015
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Textile Technology, https://www.cotton.org/journal/2007-11/3/upload/jcs11-141.pdf,

2/06/2015
Textile Machines, http://www.exapro.com/textile-machines-texapro-spinning-spinningmachines-c547/, 03/06/2015,

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